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Thank u for refreshing me..your really are helpfull and clear. Thanks again !

NEVER use sand unless in a well-ventilated area nowhere near other people and wearing an appropriate mask. Using regular sand otherwise will give you silicosis, a very deadly disease

How often are u supposed to change? Instructions are confusing they say every 20 hrs and every 50 hrs..thanks for ur video

i like the color and your lack of preparation can hellp alot of guys afraid to do things. vice grip garage shows how to rebuild motor and escape high price machining in his SBC econo build😊

3:33 "I don't really care." Spoken like a true DIY pro. Every time you under or overfill your fluids, deduct 10 points from your overall score. And, yes, we have a winner! "Oh, Dear, have you seen my owner's manual?" "Sure, Honey. I'm using it to paper train our new puppy." David, your video just made my day better.

Was thinking about getting a cheap stick welder to weld up an expansion chamber for my 2 stroke bike. Thanks for the video

I got my ahp 203 and the 230 mig ahp also made by same owner as everlast but I’ve been running a lot off of my generator welder and works good but just make sure it doesn’t run out of gas or turn the welder off then the generator so it don’t mess up

You can take it anywhere.. I ended up getting an Arccaptain Arc130 stick welder. Works just fine for small stuff. Keep up the good work man.

Thanks for the video helpful information.

Underrated intake manifold videos. Great job. I see you went from a 2 barrel to a 4, that’s what I’m thinking of doing, just took the 2 barrel out today and changed the distributor yesterday. I have a AVS2 that I want to install, this was before i realized I have to change in take manifold too lol, so now I either go through with it or just buy a new 2 barrel. Going through with the 4 barrel I would have to decide between a aluminum intake like an edelbrock or find a cast iron GM stock. I like the reliability and durability of the original cast iron, but I hear that the aluminum edelbrock performs better. What should I do and why? Why did you choose to go with aluminum? Hope to hear your response take care!

I just removed my carburetor and there are 4 bolts sticking out of the intake manifold pointing upwards where the carb gets attached to. How do I take these out? On of them broke, how do I take that one out?

I have built hundreds of small block Chevrolets over the years, and I think I can say with confidence that the 416's are superior to the 801's. In fact, the 416 is probably the best 'stock' head you put on a 307. I have built several 307's with these heads and mild to moderate cams and they absolutely scream. I love em!

Good stuff.

This is cool. I’ve always liked the 305.

If you drain the radiator there really should not be an issue with coolant leaking.

Do the bulbs come out

Turn the fan away, seen that it had blown the gases away a few times, when you end a tack/weld and it sparkles, thats when you know you have porosity in it, other than that awesome work. Keep it up and have fun with it.

Im so glad you showed the 2wd nature of having a front ratchet. I was worried that ANY inequality of torque on the wheel side would activate it. Glad to see that in 2wd the steering is still 'normal'

What year is your truck?

So, David? There are two primary oddities about an SBC- one is that they will run no matter where you put number one on the cap as long as the wires are in the correct order. & 2:- for some reason they always run best when you have #1 in the factory location. This is when the rotor button & it's conductor literally point towards cyl. #1 on T.D.C on the compression stroke. And, as you route the plug wires, make sure that #5 & #7 do NOT touch or overlap. I have ended up using the second shortest wire of a set for nearly a straight run directly to #5 from it's tower on the cap & whichever one is long enough to go CW, around the back of the dist, over to #7. Reason being I cannot tell you how many times I have seen no-spark-no-start SBC's that have/had wires #5 & #7 either intertwined, crossing one-another, or ran alongside of one another looking like an N gauge railroad track. "Every" one of them needed an ignition module, w/out exception. I won't even run them in a wire loom next to one another. We didn't ever encounter this peculiar oddity until '74 when Chevy began using HEI ign. systems. My guess would be their proximities to each other aren't overly conducive to allowing a sufficient dwell angle within degrees of rotation of the rotor button between two successive discharge incidents of the coil secondary windings. And, that wheeze-oh-five exhaust manifold on the passenger side must go. Shop around & find you a set of long-tube Hooker headers or just replace it with a 350 manifold if you plan on keeping it then use those dead-soft aluminum gaskets (maybe ebay?) for both the flanges and the collectors as they do not come loose once properly tightened

fact you made the effort and results speak its process its progress its start

One important part you forgot is that bc it's a Chevy, it will run decently if the thing cranks evenly on each cylinder. If you ran it before you parked it with the distributor that far retarded that is absolutely why it seemed worn out to you. The engine actually sounds "very" healthy to me; at least given the dist is so retarded it barely runs. When you turn the distributor CCW, stop moving it when the coil cover is square with the firewall or like even with the back of the engine and see how it runs then.

I went thru the same crap with my 2 jet Rochester carburetor. That hidden hole tip under the gasket sure helped me figure out problem.

Very informative 👍

Very entertaining. I was searching for whether you could use an electric motor to spin the turbine in the turbo but I saw your video and decided to stick through the whole thing. Had to drop a sub but could you explain why an electric motor wouldn’t work?

great pull by the recommended, i like your attidude, i have no experience but im tryna learn

I have this tranny only goes in 1st n 2nd gear no 3 -4 truck running or not!!!!...

looks great

Firstly in MY experinces over the last 40 years VHT is Piss Poor product. Doing little of what it claims.. period. Beyond that : I Suggest using Regular Paints (not any claiming 'Hi Heat') Simply because Engines don't normally exceed temps that normal paints can tolerate . Consequently normal temp paints are... Very Effective... indicators that you have Seriously overheated the engine. As in Idiot Proof evidence . Masking that instant read evidence potential with a more heat tolerant paint is NOT a good thing IMO.

Well overlapin' fine & stiff,,, in case of keyhole it'll stick& tack underneat,,,,

Practice makes perfect, well that's it,,,, at 65 still tweekin' bolts,,, oxy acethls,,, stick weld 2.5/1.2mm,,, gasless,,, & JBWeld,,, difficult is stainless steel!!!...

Awesome job, thank you.

I have coolant in my 3rd spark plug port. No other issues. Could it be the intake manifold gasket? Or do i need to pull the heads? I didn't run it hot. 95 gmc. 350.

Unfortunately you have to paint a iron manifold or it will rust. But the paint hinders the heat dissipation. If it were a aluminum manifold you would leave it natural because aluminum soaks heat faster than iron.

How do you put the line

I painted engines for decades without a primer, recently I have started using primer, both gave excellent results. Just do a light basecoat without a primer and follow up with several light coats with a little time in-between.

What’s going on brother.. had a question. I have the same carb running on my 70 Impala sitting on a 350 crate motor..how many vacuum lines are usually connected to the carb? What are the important lines that can cause the car to stall when on drive gear?

You do not need primer.

It only flakes when you spray too much with a heat

There is a guy who does mostly Mopar stuff on UA-cam. I dont remember his name. He suggests useing a blowtorch on the block to remove all oil in the pores of the block. You can see the color change on the block once the oil is burned off. It looked like it worked very well. He didn't use primer. Just a blowtorch.

Wipe it down with Laquer thinners before painting. It works !

I'm about to learn stick welding stainless exhaust on a Ninja ZX6R I'm building. Great video bro! Practice makes perfect👍

Hey David, thanks for the video. Do you know if this method can be used on the 1950 massey ferguson te20?

I used this on my Hartley Brake calipers. 1st coat took off the clear coat, second coat took off the paint and primer. Just had to use a wire brush to get all the left overs off. Saved me hours of sanding all the little concave crevasses on the caliper.

Does your generator power up to 240v when you turn it on? Mines only shows it powering up to 120v....

You need a good cam to wake up the 305, it has small heads and valves. Boost is great turbo will be nice. I used Vortech centrifugal blower with good success on a dog 350. Have Fun, Dennis

The metric size is 10mm x 1.50

Sheesh just call a Mexican mechanic those bolts will come out. Truco trocaso.

2 years later that same can costs over 23$ at Autozone....thanks Joe Biden.

I remember once I worked doing security overnight at a scrap yard. I had gone to the auto store and saw a can of spray on paint remover. So for something to do, I thought I'd pick one up and try it out on an auto panel at work. I was amazed at just how easily the paint came right off. I'm older now and I want to do some body work on my car, but all I've been able to find are gooey liquids. By pure luck I found out that spray on paint removers still exist so I'm looking forward to using it. Thanks for making this vid because it's good to see that they still work.