![David Craft](/img/default-banner.jpg)
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David Craft
United States
Приєднався 11 кві 2018
This channel is about the stuff I do in my garage, like working on cars, and trying to learn how to weld and paint.
How to remove a broken bolt from a header exhaust flange.
In this video I remove a broken bolt by drilling a hole in the bolt and then using a bolt extractor. Then I talk about my next project, which is build a turbo kit for an LT-1 engine, the gen2 small block.
Переглядів: 81
Відео
Will my generator run my welding machine
Переглядів 26121 день тому
In this video I hook my everlast 160 sth up to my predator 8750 generator to see if I can weld with it. My everlast tig/stick welder is an inverter machine and requires clean power. My harbor freight predator 8750 inverter generator is supposed to be clean power. The generator and welder are matched up as far as power output and input are concerned.
Predator 8750 inverter generator, how to change the oil.
Переглядів 544Місяць тому
I changed the oil on my predator 8750 generator. This predator 8750 is the most affordable inverter generator of its size. I bought it at harbor freight for about 1400 dollars. I accidentally ran the generator twice the recommended time between oil changes, but it seems fine. The power was off for about 4 days, because of Hurricane beryl. This generator ran for about 15 hours a day during the p...
72 Chevy C10 gas tank removal
Переглядів 79Місяць тому
In this video I take the gas tank out of my truck. This is a 1972 Chevrolet C10, so the fuel tank is behind the seat. I'm not going to fully restore my truck, but I do have a hole in the floor to weld up, and I wanted to check the condition of the fuel lines. Also fix the fuel gauge.
Getting my Chevy truck c10 running, after 8 years of sitting in the yard.
Переглядів 7182 місяці тому
In this video I get my 82 Chevrolet truck c10 running again after 8 years. The engine is a 305 chevy with a 2 barrel and HEI distributor. The engine is not the factory engine but should be similar. I go over sort of a checklist of things to get an old carbureted small block chevy running.
Furick 12 cup and gas lens kit install and testing it out.
Переглядів 912 місяці тому
In this video I install a gas lens kit and a furick 12 ceramic cup. I then tig weld some stainless steel tubing. I bought this kit from the weld monger store. I'm using a ck worldwide 17 torch and a Prime weld 225x. I was having trouble with gas coverage and this kit solved it.
Building my first turbo kit hot side part 2.
Переглядів 1052 місяці тому
In this video I make some pie cuts out of 304 stainless 2.5" tubing to connect my stainless headers to the turbocharger. I first tack them together and then tig weld them together. I am building a turbo kit for a 305 chevy small block. I am using Flowtech up and forward headers and an Ebay GT45 turbo.
Building my first turbo kit, hot side.
Переглядів 2552 місяці тому
In this video I start building my turbo system. I start out by making a bracket to hold my GT45 turbo in place, in order for me to run the stainless tubes to the turbocharger. The engine is a stock 305 chevy. I'm using flowtech up and forward headers that are made out of 304 stainless steel.
How to paint a small block chevy intake manifold
Переглядів 2 тис.3 місяці тому
In this video I paint an iron 2 barrel intake manifold. The manifold is for a small block chevy. I sandblast the intake and then paint it with VHT engine enamel. The color is cast aluminum, I was trying to make the manifold appear to be aluminum. I will be using this intake on a 305 chevy to make some vids on 2 barrel rochester 2gc carburetors.
How not to paint a small block chevy.
Переглядів 2 тис.3 місяці тому
In this video I paint my chevy 305 with VHT engine enamel. I do the best job I could, but the engine was sitting in my garage for a few months. It got a little rusty and a got some oil on it. I'm going to be rebuilding this small block chevy soon. I just have to save up the money to do so.
exhaust manifold broken stud removal fail
Переглядів 8294 місяці тому
In this video I show how not to remove broken studs on small block chevy exhaust manifolds. I use erwin bolt extractors which was a fail because it just broke the ends of the studs. Next, I try to drill out the studs and extract them, and that was another fail. Then I do something that I do not recommend to anyone, I drill the hole out for the same size tap as the original bolt. I some how get ...
305 chevy small block, removing pistons from rods
Переглядів 1704 місяці тому
In this video I press out a wrist pin on a connecting rod. This is a stock rod and piston out of a factory roller 305 chevy engine. All press fit sbc rods should be the same, whether it's a 350ci, 400ci, or 327ci. I would not try this method if you were planning on re using the pistons.
Factory roller 305 chevy small block rebuild (pt. 2)
Переглядів 6565 місяців тому
In this video I talk about preparing a chevy small block for rebuild. I have a factory roller 305 chevy and I got it bored .030" over, I got the crank turned. I also had the block checked for cracks and the line bore checked. I know I'm taking forever, but I assure you this is not my first small block chevy build.
Harbor Freight steel stamping set
Переглядів 1,2 тис.9 місяців тому
Pittsburgh 36 pc 1/8" steel stamping set. In this video I use this steel stamping set to mark a connecting rod from a small block chevy. Then I demonstrate using them on a piece of aluminum.
small block chevy spun rod bearing
Переглядів 6949 місяців тому
In this video I show what a spun bearing looks like. I also talk about my 305 chevy rebuild project. My plans is to build a stock 305 chevy engine and turbo charge it. This spun bearing was out of an engine that I was taking apart so that I could use the rotating assembly on a 305 factory roller block that I am building.
305 chevy heads; 081 castings vs 416 castings
Переглядів 6 тис.10 місяців тому
305 chevy heads; 081 castings vs 416 castings
Predator generator inverter 8750, setup and first start up.
Переглядів 5 тис.Рік тому
Predator generator inverter 8750, setup and first start up.
factory roller 305 small block chevy rebuild. update
Переглядів 443Рік тому
factory roller 305 small block chevy rebuild. update
Custom built chipping hammer metal fabrication project
Переглядів 354Рік тому
Custom built chipping hammer metal fabrication project
how to remove pistons and crankshaft on chevy small block 305
Переглядів 500Рік тому
how to remove pistons and crankshaft on chevy small block 305
square body chevy truck project, removing the heater box
Переглядів 2 тис.Рік тому
square body chevy truck project, removing the heater box
Diablo 14 inch steel demon blade, cutting 16 gauge stainless steel tubing
Переглядів 758Рік тому
Diablo 14 inch steel demon blade, cutting 16 gauge stainless steel tubing
How to remove valves on small block chevy heads
Переглядів 1,7 тис.Рік тому
How to remove valves on small block chevy heads
Factory roller 305 small block chevy rebuild
Переглядів 10 тис.Рік тому
Factory roller 305 small block chevy rebuild
Factory roller small block 305 chevy vs non roller 305 chevy
Переглядів 2 тис.Рік тому
Factory roller small block 305 chevy vs non roller 305 chevy
Utilitech 4ft LED shop light 4000 lumens
Переглядів 1,6 тис.Рік тому
Utilitech 4ft LED shop light 4000 lumens
Flowtech turbo headers for a small block chevy
Переглядів 3,1 тис.Рік тому
Flowtech turbo headers for a small block chevy
Thank u for refreshing me..your really are helpfull and clear. Thanks again !
thanks for watching.
NEVER use sand unless in a well-ventilated area nowhere near other people and wearing an appropriate mask. Using regular sand otherwise will give you silicosis, a very deadly disease
Yeah, I know. I was outside, ventilation is atleast half way good. I also use a respirator most of the time. Well, after making that video and trying some abrasives that don't contain silica or atleast not as much as sand. I do not recommend using play sand. Not just because of silica, but also it clumps and actually sucks compared to slag and glass beads. Thanks for watching and that is good advice.
@davidcraft4909 I 'm going to try sand, but it needs to stay completely dry. I'm making a little oven for my welding rods, so I will use it to keep the sand dry. I also intend to process my own to get uniform sized grains. I prefer aluminum oxide, which works better and doesn't cause silicosis. I will be using regular silica sand in vapor blasting. It does a much cleaner job and does not create dangerous dust.
@@jpbonhomme5051 Honestly, the sand will stay dry enough, I had a bucket in my garage with no lid on it for over a year and it stayed dry. Now that I'm thinking about it, the first time I used it, I might have not had my in-line water separator hooked up. The second time I used it in a video and it was working a lot better, but I had changed the nozzle, hooked up my air dryer thing, I also have a shorter more rigid pickup hose.
How often are u supposed to change? Instructions are confusing they say every 20 hrs and every 50 hrs..thanks for ur video
The manual says oil change after 25 hours for the break in period. Then every 50 hours.
i like the color and your lack of preparation can hellp alot of guys afraid to do things. vice grip garage shows how to rebuild motor and escape high price machining in his SBC econo build😊
Yeah, trying to make everything perfect can really stop people from making progress. I don't cut corners on the rotating assembly, but on paint, that 305 should be happy it even got paint.
3:33 "I don't really care." Spoken like a true DIY pro. Every time you under or overfill your fluids, deduct 10 points from your overall score. And, yes, we have a winner! "Oh, Dear, have you seen my owner's manual?" "Sure, Honey. I'm using it to paper train our new puppy." David, your video just made my day better.
Thanks for watching
Was thinking about getting a cheap stick welder to weld up an expansion chamber for my 2 stroke bike. Thanks for the video
I would suggest getting a cheap tig welder. The process is slower but tig can weld anything. It's actually very easy to learn, but it's really hard to make consistent pretty beads.
@@davidcraft4909 I actually just got a cheap flux core mig the other day. Now i just need to find a place to weld at, lol
Yes, mig would be a good choice, muffler shops weld exhaust tube all day with mig. Stick on the other hand is not easy
I got my ahp 203 and the 230 mig ahp also made by same owner as everlast but I’ve been running a lot off of my generator welder and works good but just make sure it doesn’t run out of gas or turn the welder off then the generator so it don’t mess up
What type of generator weldor are you talking about?
You can take it anywhere.. I ended up getting an Arccaptain Arc130 stick welder. Works just fine for small stuff. Keep up the good work man.
Thanks for watching
Thanks for the video helpful information.
Underrated intake manifold videos. Great job. I see you went from a 2 barrel to a 4, that’s what I’m thinking of doing, just took the 2 barrel out today and changed the distributor yesterday. I have a AVS2 that I want to install, this was before i realized I have to change in take manifold too lol, so now I either go through with it or just buy a new 2 barrel. Going through with the 4 barrel I would have to decide between a aluminum intake like an edelbrock or find a cast iron GM stock. I like the reliability and durability of the original cast iron, but I hear that the aluminum edelbrock performs better. What should I do and why? Why did you choose to go with aluminum? Hope to hear your response take care!
Well, mainly to fit the carburetor. I only run holleys or edelbrock, and they are both sqaure bores, aka 4150 flange. I wouldn't expect to gain much power from an intake, but it's supposed to be proven to add a little bit. Also, they look better. As far as reliability, I've been around lots of engines that have been running aluminum edelbrock intakes with no issues at all. The only thing that an iron intake can handle better, is if you run straight water with no anti freeze. The aluminum will rot faster than iron. You will have a hard time finding a good stock iron intake that fits a edelbrock. Most are for spread bore q jets.
Well, all the intakes have a recommended rpm range. I would just follow that. But any of them would work.
I just removed my carburetor and there are 4 bolts sticking out of the intake manifold pointing upwards where the carb gets attached to. How do I take these out? On of them broke, how do I take that one out?
@scoobydooby6180 I would have to see it to give the best advice. But if it's broken flush, then drill a small hole in it, and use a bolt extractor. Or weld a nut to it if possible. Or drill it out and use a heli-coil.
@@davidcraft4909 for sure, thank you. I think it won’t matter much in the end because I’m deciding to go through with switch the intake manifold so that’ll just fix the issue right then and there
I have built hundreds of small block Chevrolets over the years, and I think I can say with confidence that the 416's are superior to the 801's. In fact, the 416 is probably the best 'stock' head you put on a 307. I have built several 307's with these heads and mild to moderate cams and they absolutely scream. I love em!
Good stuff.
thanks for watching.
This is cool. I’ve always liked the 305.
Yeah, well I lost my job and the rest of the build is going to take some time, lol. Thanks for watching and commenting,
If you drain the radiator there really should not be an issue with coolant leaking.
@acharyajamesoermannspeaker6563 if all you do is drain the radiator, you will spill coolant into your engine.
Do the bulbs come out
I have no idea, but I still have the same light in my garage, and it stays on a lot. When it stops working I will just buy a new one.
Turn the fan away, seen that it had blown the gases away a few times, when you end a tack/weld and it sparkles, thats when you know you have porosity in it, other than that awesome work. Keep it up and have fun with it.
Yeah, stick welding 16ga is not easy
@davidcraft4909 I've been a welder since 1997, welded many types, but I'm about to try aluminum stick for the first time on a golf cart frame. So we all can learn new things.
@@TrashPanda71 yeah, that's for sure. I'm definitely still learning every day. Even on stuff that I'm supposed to know about, lol
Im so glad you showed the 2wd nature of having a front ratchet. I was worried that ANY inequality of torque on the wheel side would activate it. Glad to see that in 2wd the steering is still 'normal'
Honestly, I'm not going to lie. I almost don't like it during more casual easy trail riding. You will most likely be keeping both hands on the wheel. Because as long as you have it in 4wd there will always be some sort of tension between the front and back. Mine is full time locked in the back and I have no idea if those effects it. But I'm just saying you will be fighting the steering wheel a lot more over easy light off-roading if in 4wd, but it will definitely go through more stuff, anyway thanks for watching. It's really not that bad, but very noticeable.
What year is your truck?
@@user-ds9zd8eq6u it's an 82, but the original engine was a diesel. I'm not sure what this 305 came out of.
So, David? There are two primary oddities about an SBC- one is that they will run no matter where you put number one on the cap as long as the wires are in the correct order. & 2:- for some reason they always run best when you have #1 in the factory location. This is when the rotor button & it's conductor literally point towards cyl. #1 on T.D.C on the compression stroke. And, as you route the plug wires, make sure that #5 & #7 do NOT touch or overlap. I have ended up using the second shortest wire of a set for nearly a straight run directly to #5 from it's tower on the cap & whichever one is long enough to go CW, around the back of the dist, over to #7. Reason being I cannot tell you how many times I have seen no-spark-no-start SBC's that have/had wires #5 & #7 either intertwined, crossing one-another, or ran alongside of one another looking like an N gauge railroad track. "Every" one of them needed an ignition module, w/out exception. I won't even run them in a wire loom next to one another. We didn't ever encounter this peculiar oddity until '74 when Chevy began using HEI ign. systems. My guess would be their proximities to each other aren't overly conducive to allowing a sufficient dwell angle within degrees of rotation of the rotor button between two successive discharge incidents of the coil secondary windings. And, that wheeze-oh-five exhaust manifold on the passenger side must go. Shop around & find you a set of long-tube Hooker headers or just replace it with a 350 manifold if you plan on keeping it then use those dead-soft aluminum gaskets (maybe ebay?) for both the flanges and the collectors as they do not come loose once properly tightened
I do normally put the #1 in the correct position. And, I usually watch the 2 valves on #1 stay closed as it approaches TDC on the balancer. It was just a lot faster to pull the cap and do the method where you watch it blow out a paper towel ball. I also usually use a timing light. This engine is missing the timing tab. I'm not done with it, there is a lot of things to go through.
fact you made the effort and results speak its process its progress its start
Well, this truck needs lots of work, but I will eventually get it going. Thanks for watching and commenting.
One important part you forgot is that bc it's a Chevy, it will run decently if the thing cranks evenly on each cylinder. If you ran it before you parked it with the distributor that far retarded that is absolutely why it seemed worn out to you. The engine actually sounds "very" healthy to me; at least given the dist is so retarded it barely runs. When you turn the distributor CCW, stop moving it when the coil cover is square with the firewall or like even with the back of the engine and see how it runs then.
I will eventually get to the timing. My goal was to just get it started that day. If you move all the wires over one space, then having the distributor in that position it could be way advanced. Well thanks for watching.
I went thru the same crap with my 2 jet Rochester carburetor. That hidden hole tip under the gasket sure helped me figure out problem.
@wacoldestv1704 I don't know if I told the whole story in the vid. But mine was losing a quart or more on the way to work. About 15 miles away. Thanks for watching.
Very informative 👍
Glad it was helpful!
Very entertaining. I was searching for whether you could use an electric motor to spin the turbine in the turbo but I saw your video and decided to stick through the whole thing. Had to drop a sub but could you explain why an electric motor wouldn’t work?
There's a channel called alexltdlx where a guy kinda proves they work. That guy probably has the most in-depth information about electric turbos.
great pull by the recommended, i like your attidude, i have no experience but im tryna learn
Yeah, it's the only way to learn how to do something. Just try and if it messes up, oh well who cares just fix the mistakes on the next one.
I have this tranny only goes in 1st n 2nd gear no 3 -4 truck running or not!!!!...
I have no idea why it would do that, you would have to take it apart. I'm apologize for the late response.
looks great
Thanks
Firstly in MY experinces over the last 40 years VHT is Piss Poor product. Doing little of what it claims.. period. Beyond that : I Suggest using Regular Paints (not any claiming 'Hi Heat') Simply because Engines don't normally exceed temps that normal paints can tolerate . Consequently normal temp paints are... Very Effective... indicators that you have Seriously overheated the engine. As in Idiot Proof evidence . Masking that instant read evidence potential with a more heat tolerant paint is NOT a good thing IMO.
That is a good idea, but I think it is kind of obvious if you have overheating issues because of other tell tail signs. For example, if your engine temp gauge shows more than your thermostat temp, or if the radiator cap blows steam out. thanks for watching.
Well overlapin' fine & stiff,,, in case of keyhole it'll stick& tack underneat,,,,
I don't understand what you mean by that. but thanks for watching and commenting.
Practice makes perfect, well that's it,,,, at 65 still tweekin' bolts,,, oxy acethls,,, stick weld 2.5/1.2mm,,, gasless,,, & JBWeld,,, difficult is stainless steel!!!...
yeah practice does make perfect, and I need a lot of practice if I ever want to stick weld 16ga tubing. thanks for watching and commenting.
Awesome job, thank you.
thanks for watching.
I have coolant in my 3rd spark plug port. No other issues. Could it be the intake manifold gasket? Or do i need to pull the heads? I didn't run it hot. 95 gmc. 350.
I apologize for the late response, but if you have water in a cylinder it's more than likely a head gasket or cracked head. That's just my opinion. Water only flows across the very front of the intake. I would say it's not very likely that it's coming from the intake.
Unfortunately you have to paint a iron manifold or it will rust. But the paint hinders the heat dissipation. If it were a aluminum manifold you would leave it natural because aluminum soaks heat faster than iron.
I agree, if it was aluminum, I wouldn't paint it. I'm just messing around with the idea of painting heads and intakes to make them look like they are aluminum.
How do you put the line
I don't know it had the string already in it.
I painted engines for decades without a primer, recently I have started using primer, both gave excellent results. Just do a light basecoat without a primer and follow up with several light coats with a little time in-between.
Great tip!
What’s going on brother.. had a question. I have the same carb running on my 70 Impala sitting on a 350 crate motor..how many vacuum lines are usually connected to the carb? What are the important lines that can cause the car to stall when on drive gear?
There is a line for the vacuum advance, pcv, and brake booster if it has one. Also if it has a th400 there is a line to the modulator. As far as what would make it stall in drive. The carbs idle circuits might be clogged, or maybe you have a vacuum leak.
@@davidcraft4909 rite on brother thank you. Ya it seems to idle fine when I go to start it up but once I change gears it’ll stall…(shut off). runs good on the freeway but whn i come to a stop light it stalls.. can’t tell if its a vacuum leak or just bad carb.
To add to that. Ignition timing cab also affect it. Also assuming that car is not your daily. If it sits for months at a time the gas can get water in it and cause idling problems. If it randomly pops when you start it up that's probably water in the gas.
You do not need primer.
Well, I never use primer, but I would say that if someone did and used a better-quality paint. It would probably last longer and not fade as quick. I'm not building a show car, so I'm good with no primer.
It only flakes when you spray too much with a heat
I don't understand what you are trying to say.
There is a guy who does mostly Mopar stuff on UA-cam. I dont remember his name. He suggests useing a blowtorch on the block to remove all oil in the pores of the block. You can see the color change on the block once the oil is burned off. It looked like it worked very well. He didn't use primer. Just a blowtorch.
I will look for that video. I think i,ve seen it.
@@davidcraft4909 ua-cam.com/video/syyJEaxHEck/v-deo.html
Yeah, I've seen that video and he kind of goes all out on painting his engine. I'm sure his method is better than just using a spray can, so if my engine fades fast, then maybe the next one I will paint like in that video.
Wipe it down with Laquer thinners before painting. It works !
Thanks for watching
I'm about to learn stick welding stainless exhaust on a Ninja ZX6R I'm building. Great video bro! Practice makes perfect👍
Right on!
Hey David, thanks for the video. Do you know if this method can be used on the 1950 massey ferguson te20?
It can probably be used on anything, as long as you have a way to fill the pump with oil. Sometimes, pumps have to be primed to work. But I would say that if an engine has to be primed, there is probably something wrong with the oiling system. As far as I know it should pickup the oil on its own. Mine is a half way worn out engine that didn't run for years, so maybe the oil pump is not working at 100%.
I used this on my Hartley Brake calipers. 1st coat took off the clear coat, second coat took off the paint and primer. Just had to use a wire brush to get all the left overs off. Saved me hours of sanding all the little concave crevasses on the caliper.
Yeah that is the whole point of using paint remover or sand blasting. because its a lot of work to hand sand everything. thanks for watching and commenting.
Does your generator power up to 240v when you turn it on? Mines only shows it powering up to 120v....
Honestly , I haven't used anything on 240v yet.
You need a good cam to wake up the 305, it has small heads and valves. Boost is great turbo will be nice. I used Vortech centrifugal blower with good success on a dog 350. Have Fun, Dennis
Thanks for the tips!
The metric size is 10mm x 1.50
Thanks for sharing that.
Sheesh just call a Mexican mechanic those bolts will come out. Truco trocaso.
I did get them all out.
2 years later that same can costs over 23$ at Autozone....thanks Joe Biden.
Man I just bought it today I was in thurr making life decisions 😂 do I buy food or the can I need. $22! They crazy man
Yup and thanks to JB, gloss black engine enamel is now $10 instead of $6 two years ago....
yeah, everything is expensive these days.
I remember once I worked doing security overnight at a scrap yard. I had gone to the auto store and saw a can of spray on paint remover. So for something to do, I thought I'd pick one up and try it out on an auto panel at work. I was amazed at just how easily the paint came right off. I'm older now and I want to do some body work on my car, but all I've been able to find are gooey liquids. By pure luck I found out that spray on paint removers still exist so I'm looking forward to using it. Thanks for making this vid because it's good to see that they still work.