I love those red wires with gray boots it would match the upgraded parts in my truck. I have a 96 Chevy Silverado c1500 5.7 and was wondering where did you buy them from and what brand they are?
with fords I just jump the solenoid with the ignition on to check spark....hell some fords will fire with the ignition off while the starter is operated even
My car is electronic, I have a coil pack and lots of other different parts. Spewing because you are easy to follow. I miss the old motors, so much less complicated.
I really appreciate this detailed video and explanation! I am a tad confused though with the second step, about the "ignition on" situation though. Doesn't the ignition have to be not just "on" but, actually turning it over(in other words, trying to start it) to check if the coil is functioning correctly?? Or is the key in the "on" position enough to test this? I am in the middle of diagnosing an old(1960) evinrude 75hp engine that has no spark. New points and condenser are $36.00 but a second hand coil is $210.00! So I am trying to determine if the problem is BEFORE the coil, the coil itself or in the distributor cap/points/condenser.
The primary and secondary in the coil have to work. So you can check this just by checking both sides of the coil. Power 12 volts to positive and then see if you have negative side voltage. Thats it. But the module or points actually collapse the coils current of and on and thats the trigger for the spark coming from the coil. No spark doesn't mean the coil is bad, it merely means its lying dorment.
First video I've seen that is getting me to make progress. I have a question though. When I use the jumper wire to test the coil, I get spark at the coil end of the wire. Not my ground. I'm assuming that's not right???
im a beginner on diagnosing spark.. when you test the sparkplug inside its boot, do you do that for each spark plug? or just for one spark plug to see if theirs spark?
I’m assuming you are dealing with a no start situation - assuming this, you can verify the low voltage is the issue by jumpering a wire from the battery to the coil. If it runs, the issue is either a bad ballast resistor, or weak connection somewhere upstream of the coil. Side note, when you test by jumpering a wire, try to not leave the wire from the battery to the coil for too long with the engine not running - coil will blow.
Hey Mr thunderhead man, what if I got 12V at the coil when the key is turned to run position and yet it still keeps on cranking even after the coil has been replaced, wires, cap and rotor. I’m starting to believe it must be the pick up in the distributor has gone bad. This is off of a 4 pin hei module ignition parred with jegs Mopar performance distributor with the 360 small block dodge engine
If you can, take coil wire off cap and put a spark plug it and ground it. Should see it sparking while cranking. If not, and you have done the other stuff, the 4 pin hei module is cheap to replace.
@@ThunderHead289 ok I’ll go try that! One more question is say it does spark like the way you’re saying and I’m still not getting it to fire off. Could it be something within my distributor?
Hey Thunderhead I was wondering if you could help me out I have an 84 Oldsmobile 307 has been sitting in the garage for 5 years.. I have a no spark situation. I bought new spark plugs new coil new distributor but I still have the original distributor cap and original spark plug wires from 6 years ago.. Do you think the spark plug wires can be the reason for no spark?
@@ThunderHead289 no I have not the reason being is because I bought a brand new coil so wouldn't think that would be the problem but I'll try it out thanks..
Bz 710 this wouldn’t test the coil, it would test everything before the coil 👍 By jumpering a wire for testing, you effectively factor out everything before the coil. If it has spark then, you will know that your problem is before thebcoil
@@ThunderHead289 I'm sorry I'm not very good at mechanics just know the things that I saw on your Channel so how will I jump the coil and also what comes before the coil ? Because I also bought a new battery as well does the battery come before the coil?
For the coil, 12 volt hot needs to be switched power 👍negative is what is interrupted by the distributor. When the distributor breaks the ground, the coil discharges to the distributor cap 👍
I have a 99 civic dx hatchback and she was cranking just needed new spark plugs. So I changed them and then she wouldn’t start. Changed the battery she still wouldn’t start. So I’m clueless need to buy this little device thing cause it’s most likely my ignition coil or distributor just no way to test
KOEO I only have 6 or 7 volts at coil, I tried using a power probe to send 12 volts to coil while cranking but its sending less than 10 volts. What is my next step?
Hey thunderhead I got a Pertronix Ignitor 3 for a 84 dodge d-150 project and it was running before but distributor was dying so I got it all put in with the new Ignitor 3 but now I don’t have spark. I nullified the valiant resistor by Wiring the wires to it all together. I get 12v to the coil. I don’t know what it is I do have two wires coming off the alternator that used to be connected to the coil pos and neg on top of the two new ones coming from the new distributor but no spark at all even with your test with the coil. And I just replaced the coil and it’s doing the same thing. Everything is from what Pertronix said needed for it to work coil, distributor & wires. Still nothing. Please give me a hand I’m solo in this and am trying to learn about old cars.
I have a 1970f250 with 390fe and it will only fire from the coil only once when you let off the start position. I have been ripping my hair out doing all the diagnostics. the one thing that i cant replicate like in your test is where you take the negative from the coil and hook a spark plug up to the coil the spark plug will not fire after grounding out the negative
I can tell you that your ignition switch is probably dorked - most classics have a resistive lead bypass active when cranking, sounds like this isn’t doing its thing. Again - ignition switch issue. You can test the theory by jumpering a positive lead to the positive of the coil then cranking. Bet it will fire
Okay got it. So if you have 12 volts on the negative side of the coil this also tells you the coil is conducting properly. Basically you are shorting out the 12 volts that the coil gives up, is all. You can do that with a volt meter I believe. And it will show you have current on the negative side which came from the positive side. if you have that you don't really need to see if the plug sparks. It should regardless. Great video!
I have a 22r no start right now drove fine I pulled it into the shop cut it off it aint fired since im thinking dist cap the button or coil its got fuel its got air plugs are old without a test light its hard to diagnose
@@yukmouth1324 yes bad ignition module again (it came new but dont worked) and a bad pin connector on the black 3 pin connector of the distributor, also 2 of 8 spark plugs bad (gap of electrode full closed)
+ethan “One Toxic Redneck” carter they very much so exist. Don't cheap out on a distributor though. It drives the oil pump through your cam. Don't buy one of those 50 buck units.
This is probably the best automotive video I've seen in terms of quality and ability to understand
I’m working on a ‘42 Ford GPW, engine turns over but no ignition. This video is exactly what I needed! Thanks 😃
holy shit this is such a straightforward video, thanks man
Thanks for this! And your time for making this!
I love those red wires with gray boots it would match the upgraded parts in my truck. I have a 96 Chevy Silverado c1500 5.7 and was wondering where did you buy them from and what brand they are?
with fords I just jump the solenoid with the ignition on to check spark....hell some fords will fire with the ignition off while the starter is operated even
Great video!
remove coil wire, hold metal part and crank engine. that oughta do it. :)
Genius I’m gonna go try that
Thanks! Very informative.
My car is electronic, I have a coil pack and lots of other different parts. Spewing because you are easy to follow. I miss the old motors, so much less complicated.
Sell your car and buy a good older car can't go wrong
I really appreciate this detailed video and explanation! I am a tad confused though with the second step, about the "ignition on" situation though. Doesn't the ignition have to be not just "on" but, actually turning it over(in other words, trying to start it) to check if the coil is functioning correctly?? Or is the key in the "on" position enough to test this? I am in the middle of diagnosing an old(1960) evinrude 75hp engine that has no spark. New points and condenser are $36.00 but a second hand coil is $210.00! So I am trying to determine if the problem is BEFORE the coil, the coil itself or in the distributor cap/points/condenser.
The primary and secondary in the coil have to work. So you can check this just by checking both sides of the coil. Power 12 volts to positive and then see if you have negative side voltage. Thats it. But the module or points actually collapse the coils current of and on and thats the trigger for the spark coming from the coil. No spark doesn't mean the coil is bad, it merely means its lying dorment.
I have a 71 cultus and it's been converted to electronic and I'm not getting spark
I'm getting no spark on my plug at 6:30, now what?
Can I use this method on y small block 283 Chevy ???
You talk. To much on nonsence and do a terrible explanation of setting up tests
Lol okay -maybe you should do some research on who I am
You're the only one who is saying that. Maybe you can't follow instructions
You’re an idiot.
Very informative, thanks for sharing this. I am have a spark issue with my 1961 Comet. Thanks, CC Old Car Garage
First video I've seen that is getting me to make progress. I have a question though. When I use the jumper wire to test the coil, I get spark at the coil end of the wire. Not my ground. I'm assuming that's not right???
im a beginner on diagnosing spark.. when you test the sparkplug inside its boot, do you do that for each spark plug? or just for one spark plug to see if theirs spark?
Just one spark plug - I’m using the spark plug itself as a diagnostic tool
Oh yea I see that, so I'll just lay it on the head for ground
I enjoyed your video and thought it was very informative. Thank you for posting.
MB BAR RANCH
Good video. Straight forward and informative way to troubleshoot a no spark condition. Thanks for posting.
What happens if I'm only getting 6v at my coil when I turn the key? I have 12 v at the battery.
I’m assuming you are dealing with a no start situation - assuming this, you can verify the low voltage is the issue by jumpering a wire from the battery to the coil. If it runs, the issue is either a bad ballast resistor, or weak connection somewhere upstream of the coil.
Side note, when you test by jumpering a wire, try to not leave the wire from the battery to the coil for too long with the engine not running - coil will blow.
Good video, thank you
I hope it hasn't been too long to reply since this was uploaded over a year ago. Either way, I really appreciate this!
why look for it again, just copy the video
Very interesting way to check the spark on the coil with a plug like that. I’ll have to try this on the 455 GS. Thanks
I'm trying to get my 455 GS to start right now!
@@lisaschrader7621 it's not starting? What is it doing? Anything?
how would you do this on a jeep Cherokee 1988 limited?
Can you please tell me where the negative wire that connects to the negative terminal of the coil goes, does it go onto the ignition switch?
No matter what, the negative goes to the distributor or ignition module if it has one separate
Hey Mr thunderhead man, what if I got 12V at the coil when the key is turned to run position and yet it still keeps on cranking even after the coil has been replaced, wires, cap and rotor. I’m starting to believe it must be the pick up in the distributor has gone bad. This is off of a 4 pin hei module ignition parred with jegs Mopar performance distributor with the 360 small block dodge engine
If you can, take coil wire off cap and put a spark plug it and ground it.
Should see it sparking while cranking.
If not, and you have done the other stuff, the 4 pin hei module is cheap to replace.
@@ThunderHead289 ok I’ll go try that! One more question is say it does spark like the way you’re saying and I’m still not getting it to fire off. Could it be something within my distributor?
Great video! Thanks for sharing!
Thx a lot sir! You helped me out (6 years later)
The thing about tech/how to videos is that in the case of classic automotive, and old video still has the correct tech
How dare you put a 302 in an rx7. I’m a rotary guy with me first Ford 7.5
Hey Thunderhead I was wondering if you could help me out I have an 84 Oldsmobile 307 has been sitting in the garage for 5 years.. I have a no spark situation.
I bought new spark plugs new coil new distributor but I still have the original distributor cap and original spark plug wires from 6 years ago.. Do you think the spark plug wires can be the reason for no spark?
Have you tried jumping power directly to the coil?
@@ThunderHead289 no I have not the reason being is because I bought a brand new coil so wouldn't think that would be the problem but I'll try it out thanks..
Bz 710 this wouldn’t test the coil, it would test everything before the coil 👍
By jumpering a wire for testing, you effectively factor out everything before the coil.
If it has spark then, you will know that your problem is before thebcoil
@@ThunderHead289 I'm sorry I'm not very good at mechanics just know the things that I saw on your Channel so how will I jump the coil and also what comes before the coil ? Because I also bought a new battery as well does the battery come before the coil?
Nice work man! Thanks!
Where do the wires go on the coil. Does it go to the ignition or does it go to the starter synoid
For the coil, 12 volt hot needs to be switched power 👍negative is what is interrupted by the distributor.
When the distributor breaks the ground, the coil discharges to the distributor cap 👍
I have a 99 civic dx hatchback and she was cranking just needed new spark plugs. So I changed them and then she wouldn’t start. Changed the battery she still wouldn’t start. So I’m clueless need to buy this little device thing cause it’s most likely my ignition coil or distributor just no way to test
KOEO I only have 6 or 7 volts at coil, I tried using a power probe to send 12 volts to coil while cranking but its sending less than 10 volts. What is my next step?
Awesome vid. Thanks
Thanks for the diy. So helpful
Grounding out the ignition coil burnt out my main fuseable link lol
awsome
What if I have orange weak spark?
Some people should just sit on their arse and babysit
Hey thunderhead I got a Pertronix Ignitor 3 for a 84 dodge d-150 project and it was running before but distributor was dying so I got it all put in with the new Ignitor 3 but now I don’t have spark. I nullified the valiant resistor by Wiring the wires to it all together. I get 12v to the coil. I don’t know what it is I do have two wires coming off the alternator that used to be connected to the coil pos and neg on top of the two new ones coming from the new distributor but no spark at all even with your test with the coil. And I just replaced the coil and it’s doing the same thing. Everything is from what Pertronix said needed for it to work coil, distributor & wires. Still nothing. Please give me a hand I’m solo in this and am trying to learn about old cars.
Balist resistor*
I have a 1970f250 with 390fe and it will only fire from the coil only once when you let off the start position. I have been ripping my hair out doing all the diagnostics. the one thing that i cant replicate like in your test is where you take the negative from the coil and hook a spark plug up to the coil the spark plug will not fire after grounding out the negative
I can tell you that your ignition switch is probably dorked - most classics have a resistive lead bypass active when cranking, sounds like this isn’t doing its thing. Again - ignition switch issue.
You can test the theory by jumpering a positive lead to the positive of the coil then cranking. Bet it will fire
Okay got it. So if you have 12 volts on the negative side of the coil this also tells you the coil is conducting properly. Basically you are shorting out the 12 volts that the coil gives up, is all. You can do that with a volt meter I believe. And it will show you have current on the negative side which came from the positive side. if you have that you don't really need to see if the plug sparks. It should regardless. Great video!
Wait so if you put that wire on the coil and it sparks but doesn’t actually make the plug spark. Does that mean you got a bad coil?
Did you figure out your problem
Very helpful thx for the knowledge.
I have a 22r no start right now drove fine I pulled it into the shop cut it off it aint fired since im thinking dist cap the button or coil its got fuel its got air plugs are old without a test light its hard to diagnose
But it's a 1983 so it's only gonna be about 3 things 🤣🤣
My,condenser,was,bad
this is a very good video and is very informative. Following the step by step process makes it very easy to follow and perform.
my car dont fires up, replaced the ignition Module, the ignition coil, ignition distributor and the rotor
Did you find out what was wrong with it?
@@yukmouth1324 yes bad ignition module again (it came new but dont worked) and a bad pin connector on the black 3 pin connector of the distributor, also 2 of 8 spark plugs bad (gap of electrode full closed)
Nice job on the video
what's your favorite ford Chevy dodge
ford and Chevrolet share equal favor with me. i just do fords as my own since everyone does Chevrolet.
ThunderHead289 I'm really tempted to do a ford build so just wish I could find hei units for em
+ethan “One Toxic Redneck” carter they very much so exist. Don't cheap out on a distributor though. It drives the oil pump through your cam. Don't buy one of those 50 buck units.
👋 Hello 👋 y'all
Sad to see that fram oil filter
Thank you 🙏🏼 for sharing these video...
3:00 ummm... jump the solenoid