Just wanted to say thanks for the video, super helpful. I've been trying to wrap my head around how the PCM decides which mode to put the fuel system into. Pretty sure my hpfp is bad, low pressure, maxes out at 1200 psi. The strange part is when it was running, it was not good but ok in closed loop, open loop drive but in regular open loop it didn't barely want to idle.
@@cybersholt I’m super glad it was able to help. The most difficult part in my opinion is determining the high-pressure fuel pump or the fuel distributor. From the book: 7, inspect fuel pressure sensor: bleed the remaining pressure in the fuel line using the following procedure. 1, switch the engine off. 2, disconnect the high-pressure fuel pump connector. Start the engine and leave it Idling for one minute. Display PIDFPN simulation item FP using the M - MDS. Turn simulation item FP on. Is the fuel pressure PID value 0.56 V or more? NO -REPLACE THE FUEL DISTRIBUTOR. YES - REPLACE HIGH-PRESSURE FUEL PUMP But I didn’t do this. One flooring the throttle and the rpm bounced like it did in the video the HPFP was the culprit because that should force the HPFP to activate. Pushing the throttle down slowly will allow the rpm to rise in my experience anyway.
Just used this vid to fix the same issue I was having with my 2016 cx-5 grand touring, it worked perfect, even sped up you made it possible to see what hoses to remove and where to place stuff and everything, was my first time doing it and made it simple for me to do and saved me a lot of money thanks!!!! I got my power and acceleration back and check engine light is gone!!!
@@DopeTheScopeGaming yo! Thank you so much for the comment. I am really glad this was able to help you out. I hope I earned your subscription. Anything else questions and what not let me know. I’ll try to do my best to help you.
Hola mi Mazda 3 no acelera me dio el error p0087 ya cambie la bomba del estanque por que daba menos de 2 bar de presión ahora quiero cambiar la bomba de alta presión pero no se si el eje de leva puede estar haciendo presión en la bomba y que pueda saltar de golpe. Además de cómo hacer para cambiar el sensor de riel sin botar gasolina 10:29
What year of Mazda 3? The camshaft shouldn’t go anywhere when you remove the hpfp. No matter what you’ll drop some fuel. To prevent it from spraying take the fuel pump fuse out and start the car and let it run till it dies. That’ll relieve the pressure. Then you could remove the fuel rail and pressure sensor together. Make sure you buy from the dealer on these. Aftermarket has proven worse than the dealership. With the info from your comment I don’t think the fuel rail and pressure sensor is the issue. The sensor is reading correctly by throwing the p0087 code.
Gracias ayer lo cambié yo mismo y quedó súper bien perk decidí cambiar todo al final incluido bomba de estanque sensor del riel y la bomba de alta presión. Además saqué el cuerpo de aceleración donde va la mariposa y la limpié. Eso si la batería que tiene el auto es de 12v 55 ah y 330 acc pero la medí con un probador de batería y me dice que tiene apenas 110 de arranque en frío y que debe ser remplazada Agradezco tu video me ayudó mucho
@@Mr_T817 how many miles are on your Mazda now? I hate to say the dealer is better because this one failed really around 80k. The good thing is that if you get an aftermarket you’ll know exactly how to fix it if it fails again. I went dealer because the customer was paying for it. If I owed this I would’ve picked an aftermarket or a used before spending the money for a dealer hpfp.
@@Myguyabqbought my 2015 cx5 brand new. Never had major issues with it. This is the first. It has 149,000 miles right now. Dealer wanted to charge me $1800 for parts and labor. Found the aftermarket on eBay for $200 and an auto shop that will install it for me $150. We’ll see how it goes. Thanks for the response
Good job 👏 Did you check with the scan tool what was the hpfp actual pressure readings? Mine doesn't get to 2176psi at 3000rpm as per specs, car runs fine just have fuel trims around 15 to 20 combined ? Like your video fast short and straight on the job 👍
That hpfp reading wasn’t reading accurate which was leading me to believe it was the fuel pressure sensor and the distribution rail. But finally duplicating that revving how it bounced up and down while the throttle was 100% open which I believe actuates the hpfp fully I was confident that’s the issue and not the sensor and distribution rail. Because the fps wasn’t reading accurately I should’ve known at that point it’s working properly and the hpfp was the issue Thank you so much.
With the car running if you fully depress the pedal the result was the same or only from start? Also I would be curious to see the pressure fluctuation on the fps and if it happens with the new pump as well 👍
@@tsunami770 it was around $862 here in NM. A lot of money in my book. I’d stay away from any direct injection. Too much carbon build up on the valves causes problems.
It is expensive and would love your opinion, I see 3 choices: 1. Rebuild stock pump with new / upgraded internals from Cork Sport ( a lot of people will recommend this ) 2. Buy a good expensive replacement hopefully OEM, but beware there's a lot of counterfeit parts on the net. 3. Buy cheap and you'll get what you pay for, I've been scouring the internet for a decent pump that is remanufactured or whatever, but most of them that I have found when someone opens them up. They are just used parts. I believe that they have been cleaned and spiffed up but inside. They are extremely dirty and have old seals and stuff in them. Personally I'm gonna try a cheap pump while my parts from cork sport head my way and to also help rule out a defective spill solenoid.
@@cybersholt My friend the cheapest I have found that new from a good manufacturer Standard Motor Product GDP762 (2019-2021) $635 buy it with Affim or any other buy now pay later system that will break the payments down. At least you know you get a quality product and it is from a well-known auto parts distributor. I am assuming Mazda CX-3 or CX-9...
Just wanted to say thanks for the video, super helpful. I've been trying to wrap my head around how the PCM decides which mode to put the fuel system into. Pretty sure my hpfp is bad, low pressure, maxes out at 1200 psi.
The strange part is when it was running, it was not good but ok in closed loop, open loop drive but in regular open loop it didn't barely want to idle.
@@cybersholt I’m super glad it was able to help. The most difficult part in my opinion is determining the high-pressure fuel pump or the fuel distributor.
From the book: 7, inspect fuel pressure sensor: bleed the remaining pressure in the fuel line using the following procedure. 1, switch the engine off. 2, disconnect the high-pressure fuel pump connector. Start the engine and leave it Idling for one minute. Display PIDFPN simulation item FP using the M - MDS. Turn simulation item FP on. Is the fuel pressure PID value 0.56 V or more? NO -REPLACE THE FUEL DISTRIBUTOR.
YES - REPLACE HIGH-PRESSURE FUEL PUMP
But I didn’t do this. One flooring the throttle and the rpm bounced like it did in the video the HPFP was the culprit because that should force the HPFP to activate. Pushing the throttle down slowly will allow the rpm to rise in my experience anyway.
Just used this vid to fix the same issue I was having with my 2016 cx-5 grand touring, it worked perfect, even sped up you made it possible to see what hoses to remove and where to place stuff and everything, was my first time doing it and made it simple for me to do and saved me a lot of money thanks!!!! I got my power and acceleration back and check engine light is gone!!!
@@DopeTheScopeGaming yo! Thank you so much for the comment. I am really glad this was able to help you out. I hope I earned your subscription. Anything else questions and what not let me know. I’ll try to do my best to help you.
Hola mi Mazda 3 no acelera me dio el error p0087 ya cambie la bomba del estanque por que daba menos de 2 bar de presión ahora quiero cambiar la bomba de alta presión pero no se si el eje de leva puede estar haciendo presión en la bomba y que pueda saltar de golpe. Además de cómo hacer para cambiar el sensor de riel sin botar gasolina 10:29
What year of Mazda 3? The camshaft shouldn’t go anywhere when you remove the hpfp. No matter what you’ll drop some fuel. To prevent it from spraying take the fuel pump fuse out and start the car and let it run till it dies. That’ll relieve the pressure. Then you could remove the fuel rail and pressure sensor together. Make sure you buy from the dealer on these. Aftermarket has proven worse than the dealership.
With the info from your comment I don’t think the fuel rail and pressure sensor is the issue. The sensor is reading correctly by throwing the p0087 code.
Gracias ayer lo cambié yo mismo y quedó súper bien perk decidí cambiar todo al final incluido bomba de estanque sensor del riel y la bomba de alta presión. Además saqué el cuerpo de aceleración donde va la mariposa y la limpié. Eso si la batería que tiene el auto es de 12v 55 ah y 330 acc pero la medí con un probador de batería y me dice que tiene apenas 110 de arranque en frío y que debe ser remplazada
Agradezco tu video me ayudó mucho
Is it ok if I bought an aftermarket hpfp since it’s much cheaper?
@@Mr_T817 how many miles are on your Mazda now? I hate to say the dealer is better because this one failed really around 80k. The good thing is that if you get an aftermarket you’ll know exactly how to fix it if it fails again. I went dealer because the customer was paying for it. If I owed this I would’ve picked an aftermarket or a used before spending the money for a dealer hpfp.
@@Myguyabqbought my 2015 cx5 brand new. Never had major issues with it. This is the first. It has 149,000 miles right now. Dealer wanted to charge me $1800 for parts and labor. Found the aftermarket on eBay for $200 and an auto shop that will install it for me $150. We’ll see how it goes. Thanks for the response
@@Mr_T817 in this case the dealer has proved it is reliable. 150k is very good 👍🏽.. I’m sure the aftermarket isn’t going to last 150k
@@Myguyabq I don’t think the car itself will last another 150k either 🤣
@ facts haha.
Good job 👏
Did you check with the scan tool what was the hpfp actual pressure readings? Mine doesn't get to 2176psi at 3000rpm as per specs, car runs fine just have fuel trims around 15 to 20 combined ?
Like your video fast short and straight on the job 👍
That hpfp reading wasn’t reading accurate which was leading me to believe it was the fuel pressure sensor and the distribution rail. But finally duplicating that revving how it bounced up and down while the throttle was 100% open which I believe actuates the hpfp fully I was confident that’s the issue and not the sensor and distribution rail.
Because the fps wasn’t reading accurately I should’ve known at that point it’s working properly and the hpfp was the issue
Thank you so much.
With the car running if you fully depress the pedal the result was the same or only from start? Also I would be curious to see the pressure fluctuation on the fps and if it happens with the new pump as well 👍
How did u know it wasn't the in tank fuel filter ?
When I connected the pressure test to the fuel rail it was reading correct psi. I connected it before the high pressure fuel line.
That is one expensive little pump too
@@tsunami770 it was around $862 here in NM. A lot of money in my book. I’d stay away from any direct injection. Too much carbon build up on the valves causes problems.
It is expensive and would love your opinion, I see 3 choices:
1. Rebuild stock pump with new / upgraded internals from Cork Sport ( a lot of people will recommend this )
2. Buy a good expensive replacement hopefully OEM, but beware there's a lot of counterfeit parts on the net.
3. Buy cheap and you'll get what you pay for, I've been scouring the internet for a decent pump that is remanufactured or whatever, but most of them that I have found when someone opens them up. They are just used parts. I believe that they have been cleaned and spiffed up but inside. They are extremely dirty and have old seals and stuff in them.
Personally I'm gonna try a cheap pump while my parts from cork sport head my way and to also help rule out a defective spill solenoid.
@@cybersholt My friend the cheapest I have found that new from a good manufacturer Standard Motor Product GDP762 (2019-2021) $635 buy it with Affim or any other buy now pay later system that will break the payments down. At least you know you get a quality product and it is from a well-known auto parts distributor. I am assuming Mazda CX-3 or CX-9...