Відео

@@GGRTL1 I paid my neighbor $100.

@@GGRTL1 as long as you remove it yourself it should be cheap

@@oday3514 right! but I happened to snap the bold on the tensioner pulley. When I was installing it. I had the tensioner help open with a pin and putting it on i cross threaded it and snapped it.

@@Myguyabq OK then. If you buggered the tensioner assembly, then you are in for a world of hurt - as you now know. An easier way to get at the A/C compressor, probably the tensioner bolts too, is to remove the driver's side wheel, and the flaps that deflect water from entering the engine bay.

@@oday3514 that’ll probably saved me the frustration for sure haha

@@JuanFlores-no4dc auto parts Orlando.com it’s been about a year and customer is very satisfied with his purchase. Engine is strong and had about 50k less miles then the truck itself

@@cybersholt I’m super glad it was able to help. The most difficult part in my opinion is determining the high-pressure fuel pump or the fuel distributor. From the book: 7, inspect fuel pressure sensor: bleed the remaining pressure in the fuel line using the following procedure. 1, switch the engine off. 2, disconnect the high-pressure fuel pump connector. Start the engine and leave it Idling for one minute. Display PIDFPN simulation item FP using the M - MDS. Turn simulation item FP on. Is the fuel pressure PID value 0.56 V or more? NO -REPLACE THE FUEL DISTRIBUTOR. YES - REPLACE HIGH-PRESSURE FUEL PUMP But I didn’t do this. One flooring the throttle and the rpm bounced like it did in the video the HPFP was the culprit because that should force the HPFP to activate. Pushing the throttle down slowly will allow the rpm to rise in my experience anyway.

@@sychosez 100% you know these were passed over haha.

@Myguyabq the guy i bought my Sequoia from, had just had the starter and gaskets done before I bought it. He also forgot the knock sensors. . . 😆

@@troyhausmann1751 yea I understand your point. But that’s really it though. Take those two screws out of the top and the whole assembly comes out and install the new one. It’s simple. Once you get in it you’ll see how easy it is. Nothing to it really. Get in there and check it out for yourself. I’m sure you’ll say the same thing I did. It’s like 10 min job if that.

@@nastysoda9212 absolutely stupid! I snapped the freaking bolt accidentally. That why I ended up having to swap that out. It was tedious to say the least. Getting those bolts started I about lost it haha.

@@nastysoda9212 hit me up if you run into anything. I’ll try to respond fast

@@Myguyabq thank you

@@halffast7799 that’s normally the plan however I made the mistake of doing all this work before I even had the new one. Good job on that. Someone will read this comment and you saved them a head ache.

@@Mr_T817 how many miles are on your Mazda now? I hate to say the dealer is better because this one failed really around 80k. The good thing is that if you get an aftermarket you’ll know exactly how to fix it if it fails again. I went dealer because the customer was paying for it. If I owed this I would’ve picked an aftermarket or a used before spending the money for a dealer hpfp.

@@Myguyabqbought my 2015 cx5 brand new. Never had major issues with it. This is the first. It has 149,000 miles right now. Dealer wanted to charge me $1800 for parts and labor. Found the aftermarket on eBay for $200 and an auto shop that will install it for me $150. We’ll see how it goes. Thanks for the response

@@Mr_T817 in this case the dealer has proved it is reliable. 150k is very good 👍🏽.. I’m sure the aftermarket isn’t going to last 150k

@@Myguyabq I don’t think the car itself will last another 150k either 🤣

@ facts haha.

@@Testoflove-z7n it took about 7 hours to remove the everything around the engine and pull it out. About 4 hours to reinstall the engine and put everything around it back together. It took extra time taking it out because I was trying to do the whole thing without vacuuming the AC and recharging it. Also the alternator and the power steering I wanted to keep in tact. The hardest part was stabbing the engine back into the trans. I ended up just getting aggressive with it and that worked.

@ thanks for that

@ no prob. If there is anything else let me know

@@tonisteele4943 the inner ignition switch is what is usually what’s broken that’s the part that I had to remove with the hammer and driver. The ignition cylinder just happened to brake on the end so I replaced that as well.

@@guitarman8334 4 cyl yes it should be under the intake manifold.

@@KingJMan613 personally I’d try “you pull and pay” or “you pull it” to see if there is one available that has been crashed. Then I’d look into Amazon or eBay before I’d go to the dealership. Insurance paying then I’d go to the dealership

Right! I mix myself up constantly when I’m recording lol

@@spikey9azn6 for sure. I was surprised. Once I got under it and used my borescope I noticed the crack. I thought it was warped at first but that crack was undeniable once that came into view.

Ive asked this customer to sell this truck tp me every time I do his oil changes and anything else. He refuses with a laugh.

@@Myguyabq does he have the factory replacement frame. The Toyota dealership I bought this from still contacts me about selling. I'll be rewatching this vid .

@@waltsmith1305 no sir. And thank you for watching and following I really appreciate you for taking the time. Let me know if you questions.

there is no replacement. The new stuff is absolute dog shit. Just gotta keep swapping out parts.

@ agreed

@@vitoscatigno4207 that’s a fact. I never had so much trouble getting those bolts started

@@Pointercitoblanco the audio was terrible. I did create a new video with better audio. Please check that one out and let me know if there is anything unclear. Thank you for the feedback

@@DopeTheScopeGaming yo! Thank you so much for the comment. I am really glad this was able to help you out. I hope I earned your subscription. Anything else questions and what not let me know. I’ll try to do my best to help you.

@@obamazadork yea I sucked at picking the music on this one. Let me work on changing it. You’re the 2nd person and probably every one else who watched this.

autopartsorlando.com/ Yo good call. Here is where I purchased the engine. Took close to 3 weeks for it to arrive. They had to pull the engine and send pictures of the engine and miles on the sequoia and make sure the vin matched also. I then did a Carfax history report on that vin to make sure there was no mileage discrepancy. $3500 bucks and 80k miles I was not willing to have that money hanging out there.

@@Myguyabq Cool. 2 questions: How's its running now its a few weeks installed? Second did you get the matching instrument cluster or were you able to match the miles on your original cluster? I'm about to attempt the same procedure.

@@biggmississippisteppa the secondary vacuum pump went out shortly after. I’m editing that video. But I recommend replacing the starter and vacuum pump and sensors that are under the intake manifold to avoid this 4 hour repair. I didn’t get the cluster or match the miles because the miles would come back a “not actual” on the Carfax. But the owner says he’s never going to get rid of that so I guess we could’ve.

It was the AC Compressor clutch

No I haven’t. But the steering half shaft or the joint I’d check if the knock is from inside of the cab. Also clock spring

@@tsunami770 it was around $862 here in NM. A lot of money in my book. I’d stay away from any direct injection. Too much carbon build up on the valves causes problems.

It is expensive and would love your opinion, I see 3 choices: 1. Rebuild stock pump with new / upgraded internals from Cork Sport ( a lot of people will recommend this ) 2. Buy a good expensive replacement hopefully OEM, but beware there's a lot of counterfeit parts on the net. 3. Buy cheap and you'll get what you pay for, I've been scouring the internet for a decent pump that is remanufactured or whatever, but most of them that I have found when someone opens them up. They are just used parts. I believe that they have been cleaned and spiffed up but inside. They are extremely dirty and have old seals and stuff in them. Personally I'm gonna try a cheap pump while my parts from cork sport head my way and to also help rule out a defective spill solenoid.

@@cybersholt My friend the cheapest I have found that new from a good manufacturer Standard Motor Product GDP762 (2019-2021) $635 buy it with Affim or any other buy now pay later system that will break the payments down. At least you know you get a quality product and it is from a well-known auto parts distributor. I am assuming Mazda CX-3 or CX-9...

@@PilesofGoo let me look for the receipts.

@@PilesofGoo Key Sub S031: 81900-F2H00 $315.56 Body & SS032: 81910-F2130 $192.21 Shroud -Sm006: 84855-F2000-TRY $53.61 This was everything I ordered and completed the job. Besides the driver door lock I picked up at you pull it. And rekey I did at a local key guy. $85 to rekey. The 81900-F2H00 was the base model turn key cylinder. Not the push button.

Same customer has an infinity with a transmission issue. Not my bag there. I don’t want to be married to these.

It’s truly about 1 hour labor. Depending on the shop or person it’s whatever their labor rate is. I charged, at the time of this, $80 an hour.

The parts totaled $560 mechanic costs My labor totaled $160

@@Myguyabqwooo you the best I need somebody for fix my carr

@@coldchilln carefully pry it out with a pocket screwdriver. But try to take the whole assembly out first.

What year of Mazda 3? The camshaft shouldn’t go anywhere when you remove the hpfp. No matter what you’ll drop some fuel. To prevent it from spraying take the fuel pump fuse out and start the car and let it run till it dies. That’ll relieve the pressure. Then you could remove the fuel rail and pressure sensor together. Make sure you buy from the dealer on these. Aftermarket has proven worse than the dealership. With the info from your comment I don’t think the fuel rail and pressure sensor is the issue. The sensor is reading correctly by throwing the p0087 code.

Gracias ayer lo cambié yo mismo y quedó súper bien perk decidí cambiar todo al final incluido bomba de estanque sensor del riel y la bomba de alta presión. Además saqué el cuerpo de aceleración donde va la mariposa y la limpié. Eso si la batería que tiene el auto es de 12v 55 ah y 330 acc pero la medí con un probador de batería y me dice que tiene apenas 110 de arranque en frío y que debe ser remplazada Agradezco tu video me ayudó mucho

You know, I never tried to do it without taking the collar off. Try it I’d like to know.

Check the connections of ignition cylinder and where they mount. This one had been cracked around the cylinder where it meets the switch. A lot of times these people destroy everything but ignition could be salvaged.

How much did it cost you to get it fixed?

@@Rahulthandu we ended up just popping the ignition into place and the mechanic just rewired some wires and didn’t charge anything

Nice!

I went to the dealer to pick these up because this was an insurance paid job. For customers I have paying out of pocket I’ll pick up from eBay or you pull it or Amazon.

When I connected the pressure test to the fuel rail it was reading correct psi. I connected it before the high pressure fuel line.

That is what I wanted to ask

No. On this Hyundai particularly ate not chipped or none programmed keys And that’s how they get away

Thanks for the heads up.. I’ll be sure to work it out like this next time. Thank you

Yes that’s for sure. Usually folks just fast forward through it what I thought haha. You suffered a little too much homie

Wow they just tried to steal my 2013 Elantra but failed thanks to the club on the pedal to steering wheel. They broke my rear window too. $275 fix, now I'm just ordering ignition switch and housing.

Yea the fuses and the grounds I’d check. The tail lights were inoperable with this Hyundai however I didn’t know about that when I received it. I could say it was because of the theft or not. I’m thinking after you say this it was because of the theft.

You change the parts??

That hpfp reading wasn’t reading accurate which was leading me to believe it was the fuel pressure sensor and the distribution rail. But finally duplicating that revving how it bounced up and down while the throttle was 100% open which I believe actuates the hpfp fully I was confident that’s the issue and not the sensor and distribution rail. Because the fps wasn’t reading accurately I should’ve known at that point it’s working properly and the hpfp was the issue Thank you so much.

With the car running if you fully depress the pedal the result was the same or only from start? Also I would be curious to see the pressure fluctuation on the fps and if it happens with the new pump as well 👍

Metal gaskets I ordered through Toyota.

I had mine stolen last week

Yup. Junk like you saw. They know it also. I’ll recommend these cars only if someone absolutely needs something cheap and isn’t willing to pay or even really take care of it.. they’re throw away brands like Hyundai and Kia.