Відео

@@KingJMan613 personally I’d try “you pull and pay” or “you pull it” to see if there is one available that has been crashed. Then I’d look into Amazon or eBay before I’d go to the dealership. Insurance paying then I’d go to the dealership

Right! I mix myself up constantly when I’m recording lol

@@spikey9azn6 for sure. I was surprised. Once I got under it and used my borescope I noticed the crack. I thought it was warped at first but that crack was undeniable once that came into view.

Ive asked this customer to sell this truck tp me every time I do his oil changes and anything else. He refuses with a laugh.

@@Myguyabq does he have the factory replacement frame. The Toyota dealership I bought this from still contacts me about selling. I'll be rewatching this vid .

@@waltsmith1305 no sir. And thank you for watching and following I really appreciate you for taking the time. Let me know if you questions.

@@vitoscatigno4207 that’s a fact. I never had so much trouble getting those bolts started

@@Pointercitoblanco the audio was terrible. I did create a new video with better audio. Please check that one out and let me know if there is anything unclear. Thank you for the feedback

@@DopeTheScopeGaming yo! Thank you so much for the comment. I am really glad this was able to help you out. I hope I earned your subscription. Anything else questions and what not let me know. I’ll try to do my best to help you.

@@obamazadork yea I sucked at picking the music on this one. Let me work on changing it. You’re the 2nd person and probably every one else who watched this.

autopartsorlando.com/ Yo good call. Here is where I purchased the engine. Took close to 3 weeks for it to arrive. They had to pull the engine and send pictures of the engine and miles on the sequoia and make sure the vin matched also. I then did a Carfax history report on that vin to make sure there was no mileage discrepancy. $3500 bucks and 80k miles I was not willing to have that money hanging out there.

@@Myguyabq Cool. 2 questions: How's its running now its a few weeks installed? Second did you get the matching instrument cluster or were you able to match the miles on your original cluster? I'm about to attempt the same procedure.

@@biggmississippisteppa the secondary vacuum pump went out shortly after. I’m editing that video. But I recommend replacing the starter and vacuum pump and sensors that are under the intake manifold to avoid this 4 hour repair. I didn’t get the cluster or match the miles because the miles would come back a “not actual” on the Carfax. But the owner says he’s never going to get rid of that so I guess we could’ve.

It was the AC Compressor clutch

No I haven’t. But the steering half shaft or the joint I’d check if the knock is from inside of the cab. Also clock spring

@@tsunami770 it was around $862 here in NM. A lot of money in my book. I’d stay away from any direct injection. Too much carbon build up on the valves causes problems.

@@PilesofGoo let me look for the receipts.

@@PilesofGoo Key Sub S031: 81900-F2H00 $315.56 Body & SS032: 81910-F2130 $192.21 Shroud -Sm006: 84855-F2000-TRY $53.61 This was everything I ordered and completed the job. Besides the driver door lock I picked up at you pull it. And rekey I did at a local key guy. $85 to rekey. The 81900-F2H00 was the base model turn key cylinder. Not the push button.

Same customer has an infinity with a transmission issue. Not my bag there. I don’t want to be married to these.

It’s truly about 1 hour labor. Depending on the shop or person it’s whatever their labor rate is. I charged, at the time of this, $80 an hour.

The parts totaled $560 mechanic costs My labor totaled $160

@@coldchilln carefully pry it out with a pocket screwdriver. But try to take the whole assembly out first.

What year of Mazda 3? The camshaft shouldn’t go anywhere when you remove the hpfp. No matter what you’ll drop some fuel. To prevent it from spraying take the fuel pump fuse out and start the car and let it run till it dies. That’ll relieve the pressure. Then you could remove the fuel rail and pressure sensor together. Make sure you buy from the dealer on these. Aftermarket has proven worse than the dealership. With the info from your comment I don’t think the fuel rail and pressure sensor is the issue. The sensor is reading correctly by throwing the p0087 code.

Gracias ayer lo cambié yo mismo y quedó súper bien perk decidí cambiar todo al final incluido bomba de estanque sensor del riel y la bomba de alta presión. Además saqué el cuerpo de aceleración donde va la mariposa y la limpié. Eso si la batería que tiene el auto es de 12v 55 ah y 330 acc pero la medí con un probador de batería y me dice que tiene apenas 110 de arranque en frío y que debe ser remplazada Agradezco tu video me ayudó mucho

You know, I never tried to do it without taking the collar off. Try it I’d like to know.

Check the connections of ignition cylinder and where they mount. This one had been cracked around the cylinder where it meets the switch. A lot of times these people destroy everything but ignition could be salvaged.

I went to the dealer to pick these up because this was an insurance paid job. For customers I have paying out of pocket I’ll pick up from eBay or you pull it or Amazon.

When I connected the pressure test to the fuel rail it was reading correct psi. I connected it before the high pressure fuel line.

That is what I wanted to ask

No. On this Hyundai particularly ate not chipped or none programmed keys And that’s how they get away

Thanks for the heads up.. I’ll be sure to work it out like this next time. Thank you

Yes that’s for sure. Usually folks just fast forward through it what I thought haha. You suffered a little too much homie

Wow they just tried to steal my 2013 Elantra but failed thanks to the club on the pedal to steering wheel. They broke my rear window too. $275 fix, now I'm just ordering ignition switch and housing.

Yea the fuses and the grounds I’d check. The tail lights were inoperable with this Hyundai however I didn’t know about that when I received it. I could say it was because of the theft or not. I’m thinking after you say this it was because of the theft.

That hpfp reading wasn’t reading accurate which was leading me to believe it was the fuel pressure sensor and the distribution rail. But finally duplicating that revving how it bounced up and down while the throttle was 100% open which I believe actuates the hpfp fully I was confident that’s the issue and not the sensor and distribution rail. Because the fps wasn’t reading accurately I should’ve known at that point it’s working properly and the hpfp was the issue Thank you so much.

With the car running if you fully depress the pedal the result was the same or only from start? Also I would be curious to see the pressure fluctuation on the fps and if it happens with the new pump as well 👍

Metal gaskets I ordered through Toyota.

I had mine stolen last week

Yup. Junk like you saw. They know it also. I’ll recommend these cars only if someone absolutely needs something cheap and isn’t willing to pay or even really take care of it.. they’re throw away brands like Hyundai and Kia.