My response - "Payment will be determined by the price, so let's get to that." I'll tell a salesperson twice max that I want the OTD price - if they keep going back to other subjects, I get up and walk out. It definitely gets their attention, and they either get to the numbers or I'm gone.
Nice! I've walked out on so many salespeople. At Auto Nation, I had them buy me lunch, and then I left. They were trying to push all these extras, they sent 3 salespeople over to try to convince me. Really pissed me off! I also buy used cars and I make them let me take it to my mechanic to inspect the car. The mechanic charges $100, and he will check up to 3 cars for you for that price. Walked out on another when they said $1000 window tint was a mandatory add on and they wouldn't take that charge out. I laughed in their face and walked out. If I'm buying a car, I get prepared for battle! Really unfortunate that they push nice people into that mentality, but I'm definitely not getting ripped off for some BS! I'm a different person when dealing with scummy salespeople.
@@alfonsoaquino5674 - there's a '22 Aviator BL in the garage and a '22 Ram 3500 in the garage that says you're wrong. But I had to fly to OK to buy the Ram when our local dealer thought he could play "chicken" with the price, betting I wouldn't go out of state to get the deal I wanted....he lost.
@@GeorgeMandry Just like there is a lot of dealers there is a lot of customers. You lost the chance to make business with them and so did they. It’s just how it works bud
@@alfonsoaquino5674 - I went back in with the BO in hand - might also mention I'd bought one from them 3 years prior. Made no difference - they insisted on their $10k "premium". THEY lost the chance, not I. Because when it's time to buy another one, guess who will NOT get first consideration?
1 do you have a monthly budget - out the door price 2 how much cash are you putting down - out the door number again 3 do you have a trade in - haven’t decided, concentrated on out the door number, again.. 4 what loan term are you comfortable with - know what you’re approved for 5 would you finance through us - need a better rate than currently 6 protection menu - can I see a break down for each item (base payment) 7 pre payment penalties
Exactly. And check w/ your Credit Union. Mine offered that I could skip a payment a year if needed. Granted, that was added on the backside of the loan term, but is good if there's an emergency. I also got a shorter term loan, short enough to pay off before the first expected repair. I figured, if I couldn't pay it in 4 years, I couldn't afford that car.
@@mikep490 I used to work for an auto loan company and that was something that many companies will do so that you can avoid a credit hit. Realize of course that not only is that payment put on the end of the loan, but also, you're going to pay interest on that additional balance throughout the remainder of the loan, so if your payment was $700 a month, you may see an additional $200 or more due whenever you take advantage of an extension depending on the term. So if you do that every chance you get, it could add up and not only will you have the additional payments, but possibly over $1000 in interest to pay.
This is why I negotiate by email. "I'm looking for Brand Model with XYZ options in red or blue. Please send me your best out the door price." Send that to every dealer within a 5 hour drive, pick the one I like, ask for paperwork, and send a deposit to hold the car. By the time I show up its just "sign here" and turn down the usuall dealer fluff, then drive home. Total time in the dealer 30-45 minutes. I have had dealers follow up womdering why I didnt buy the car "Another dealer beat your price." "You should have given us a chance to beat them!" "I asked for your best price, you didn't send it, so I went with the dealer that did."
I actually used this strategy for years and always get price under invoice. I actually take it one step further. Do your preliminary research so you can always have good sense of MSRP and Invoice pricing. Then once you know that, when reaching out, ask for invoice price or close to it. Once one dealership bites, email the rest again, to let them know “I know I can get the car at this xxx price. Can you beat it?” You’ve essentially started a bidding war between the dealerships for your business. Works like a charm.
@@davidcouzensonly idiots walks in blindly to a car dealership looking for a car they want. For one, how do you even know that particular dealership has the exact car with all the specs in stock?
Went in to buy my last daily driver, a 2020 Hyundai Accent, with these kinds of tips in mind. I'd already gotten the vin of the car I wanted, I'd already been pre-approved by the credit union holding my previous car loan, and I'd already gotten an OTD price from a salesman over the phone. After I arrived the salesman almost botched the deal when I told him I was pre-approved somewhere else. He actually said "You didn't tell us you already had approval before we started discussions." Yeah exactly, I didn't mention it for a reason lol. He left the room frustrated, acting as though this was a possible deal breaker and I was ready to leave the dealership. The sales manager then had to come in and save the deal by mentioning that the dealership maybe able to get me a better rate, which to their credit they did actually accomplish. I'm assuming the obviously inexperienced salesman learned something that day. When the salesman acted like I'd 'hidden' something from the dealership it offended me and I almost left. Don't let the dealerships ever make you feel like your buying tactics are somehow underhanded, they are more than happy to use underhanded tactics to take your money.
Let's be honest, with all due respect to this channel's creators. Dealerships are full of scum who couldn't become Lawyers. It is a full out chess match, so go armed with knowledge.
I worked at a dealership where we showed the OTD, finance options, and lease options on new cars. I don't understand why everyone doesn't do that. Literally makes it easier for all parties involved
There are few dealerships near me that do exactly that. Saves a lot of effort. And adjusting the payments after agreeing to a new OTD doesn’t take much time.
All dealers show the OTD amount, most show their finance options, and many provide lease options. Showing these things does not inherently mean the dealer is honest, Showing the OTD amount without a detailed breakdown of that amount is the issue. Things like all those fake fees and overpriced add-ons. When it comes to financing, few dealers show the buy rate. Almost every dealer bumps the buy rate which means the customer pays too much interest.
But if all you care about is the OTD number...then why do the fees matter? So if I have MORE FEEs than my competitor, but I'm less expensive OTD Why does it matter? @@scottr2706
Purchasing a Toyota I found the one I wanted and knew what I wanted to pay, not a lowball number. Salesman came back and said here are the numbers you need to make an offer. I told him to give me their number and I would buy the truck. He danced around and the third time I requested a number and didn’t get a reply I walked out. I called the next dealer and explained what happened. They said here is the number. I bought that truck. A good salesman will listen to the customer. If they don’t listen move on…
@@KennyBucketz I asked them to give me their number, price, so I could buy it. The salesman wouldn’t give me a price, just something above $xx, so I walked out. A more experienced salesman may have realized he could make a sale by giving me a number. This young one was too afraid to give me a number was my impression. The reality was I didn’t care what the number was. I wanted the truck and didn’t want to haggle. The next dealer understood that and got the sale.
Strangely enough, I just went to buy a shiny new car and decided to stay with my shiny older car because it has been well maintained by a well educated owner. Oh and the deal wasn’t to my liking either.
As someone who sells cars, this is great info. Absolutely nothing wrong with a client being educated and having a reasonable expectation of what to expect. If a customer comes in prepped like this, and aren’t playing a bunch of games- it puts the salesperson at ease to move through the deal quickly and efficiently. It’s embarrassing to me how some dealers play games with people. It shouldn’t be difficult and stressful to buy a car. It should be fun!
I went to a dealership once and asked for the OTD. The salesperson came up with the price, and a breakdown of all fees. We discussed the price and fees, got the deal done. I had a loan pre-approved, but they were able to get me a better rate than my bank. I don't believe it took more than 30 minutes to have everything done. Good for me and for the gentleman, who had time to spend selling car to other people too.
I purchased a new truck a couple of years ago. I did not talk money till I was in financing. Once I got the the out the door price we went to financing. When asked how I was paying I said CASH! The look on his face was priceless. He said I did not see that coming. I said I know. He said he could not take cash. I said no problem. My bank was 2 miles away. My wife drove to the bank with the cash and came back with a cashiers check. He was not happy. They were used to having complete control over financing. They did not like losing that control.
I got an otd price and then said I was paying cash. Salesman said they needed to add $2000 to the otd price if it was cash and not financing with them. I said "so either you charge me more for financing or you charge me more for paying cash?" He said yes. Wouldn't budge. I walked out, got the same model at another dealer at a better otd price... paying cash. Just ridiculous!
I just go in - totally prepared on the exact vehicle I’m planning to buy - and tell them what I’m willing to pay out the door with my checkbook and pen in hand. If they start hemming and hawing, I say, “See ya when you’re ready!”, and I walk out the door. Works every time! Dad taught me well!
My revivifier does not "go in" to enemy territory. Doc bought a Caravan online in 2012, and a Mercedes-Benz in 2017. The M-B came from a Montreal dealer who shipped it to Doc's home in Nova Scotia.
@@mikedfurman This is a bot trying to get in on the conversation. Using revivifier in that context does not work. To revivify is to put energy or new life into something.
1. Sell your car separately 2. Get the out the door price, don’t tell them what you are willing to pay per month 3. Finance on your own through your own bank 4. Call your insurance company to see what the insurance price may be. When you do these things, they squirm because they know you’re educated. Yes, ask for a breakdown and what was the base payment.
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I buy what I can afford in cash. Rates being high means the price will fall, eventually anyways. Then you pounce. Buy from a private seller as well, because their price will be down as well.
@PeteMcGregor632If you're going to run fake comments as a means to advertise, don't make it seem so obvious. You've made it look like a third grader did it. Really weak.
I pulled a deal I never dreamt of pulling if I hadn’t learned this treasure that you guys are spreading. Much appreciate and God bless you father and son.
Shaking my head at myself. I've always gone in focused on the monthly payment (because I am concerned about the monthly payment amount!), so I'm glad I've been watching your videos about OTD pricing, etc. Stay strong and focused prospective car shoppers! Stand firm.
Most people are concerened with monthly payment as thats how we budget. Most people don't know how to accurately compute a monthly payment on the "out the door" price they are trying to achieve. My advice, build a relationship with salesperson you trust at a dealership you trust. They will give you options and help you reach your budget. I can't tell you the amount of customers that say they want a $400 payment, but are looking at a $900 per month out the door car. Any reputable car dealer will provide with your out the door cost as soon as the both of you know which car you are there to buy. Your out the door cost will be affected by your trade in, whether you have equity or not, yes they will try ot hold a little back on trade in, so just know that after they appraise it, just work you numbers out and ask for another thousand on your trade value. Boom.
There’s a billion easy auto loan calculators out there. You can concentrate on both the monthly and the OTD at the same time without making your salesperson start with the out the door, only to have you then be shocked that your payment is too high for you when that could have been discovered much sooner if either you came in having already looked at this, or if you just let your salesperson do his/her process. Go in with knowledge and no one is surprised or can be tricked, and the process is faster for everyone
Why would you even need to think about payments when at a dealer? You shouldn't be financing through a dealership anyway because the financing fees and interest are always terrible. Finance it through a credit union or reputable a bank that will offer you good rates and you can negotiate payments with them.
Great advice! Great video! I recently went to a Hyundai dealer less than a half mile from my house to purchase a new hybrid. I had an OTD cash price already in mind and told the sales rep that's what I wanted to pay. He laughed and said if I could get that price OTD, definitely buy it from that dealer and come back to tell him so he could get the hybrid for that price. Well, I purchased the hybrid from a Hyundai dealer seven miles away for my asking price. Now, I refuse to get my service done at the dealership near my house and I tell all my friends and co-workers to avoid that dealership. I am staying loyal to the dealership that was willing to work with me.
I was in dealer funding at a major sub prime auto lender. Everything presented here is spot on advice and super helpful for people not in the know. I know when i went theough our training i was shocked at how ripped off i was in my own prior purchases and even ran home after work to pull my RICs to see just how many products i bought with my cars, most of which were useless junk or simply add on fees for the convenience of the dealershio faxing in my application. Bottom line is that almost anything the dealer tries to sell you outside of the actual vehicle is garbage that should never be financed, especially if you are sub prime and not getting an excellent rate. In todays higher interest market it is incredibly stupid financing lifetime oil changes, window etching, floor mats, extended warranties, and even GAP. Nowadays dealers hate me because I only want to talk price and won't buy anything without wheels attached to it. And if they insist that you pay any of those BS "document fees" you just get up and walk out. If they even let you get to the door I'd be surpised, but if they do they'll still be calling you up within an hour offering to drop it.
I have NEVER discussed a car payment with ANY salesman!!! They hate me at a car lot! My first gesture while shaking hands is.. HI… I’m already pre approved for my budget!!. So how much out the door is THAT vehicle!!!. They literally don’t even wanna talk anymore!!!. Y’all are exactly right on this!!!☝️🤣🤣🤣
I helped my mom buy a car and knew she planned to pay cash. I let the salesman think we had to get approval and asked if the price listed was accurate. He said yes. So I told him we only have [$3000 less] cash to complete the purchase. Asked if they can negotiate. He did a double take and went back to the manager. Ended up taking almost 2k off
I helped my mom buy a car and knew she planned to pay cash. I let the salesman think we had to get approval and asked if the price listed was accurate. He said yes. So I told him we only have [$3000 less] cash to complete the purchase. Asked if they can negotiate. He did a double take and went back to the manager. Ended up taking almost 2k off
I just want to say THANK YOU guys so much. I’ve been researching for several months in prep to buy a car and found y’all along the way. I watched all your vids and did all my homework. Today was the day to finally go to the dealership and they played the game exactly the way you said they would and I handled it exactly the way you advised. The sales guy was a bit frustrated with me by the end BUT I got the exact car I wanted and got fantastic deal on it with monthly payments LESS than I calculated during my prep. I hope every car buyer uses your advice and drives out happy
Indeed. I can't believe a salesperson would go and on asking all types of questions with a potential buyer of a car....WITHOUT saying what the price of the car. That's the first thing I need to know before talking at length with a salesperson. I need to know this to know if the car is worth buying in the first place.
@@richardharris3423 because most people are stupid and don't negotiate the price of the vehicle: they just negotiate the size of the monthly payment. Sales guy will just pad the price and add years to the loan term to get the monthly payment where the sucker (customer) wants it at.
It is not the only thing that matters. Not in the slightest. How you believe that baffles me. If you are coming in with cash in hand I agree. But most people pay monthly and to put everything on an out the door price for someone who has a monthly budget doesn’t make sense. You are wasting the customers and salespersons time when you only address the OTD price. Salesperson: Ok customer here’s your OTD price like the person in a UA-cam comment section said about July you only needed to focus on. it’s 2 grand under invoice. Customer: Oh that’s great! How much is that payment as I am financing it. Salesman: Well it’s $725 a month. Customer: Oh no I can only afford $425. Salesman: Oh well can you afford the extra three hundred a month or would you rather look at another car that isn’t what you wanted or you aren’t excited about? The $12,000 to $ 15,000 less car that fits their budget won’t measure up to the other car. This inevitably leads to the customer wanting to go home “and think about it”. Never to be seen again. As the next salesperson who looks at the entire situation sells them a car. This isn’t a binary thing. It has many moving pieces and can they afford the payment Is one of those pieces. Because the best out the door price is useless when you can’t afford the payments. There are 3 and sometimes 4 things affecting a car deal. Price, cash down, trade and payment. Pretending the payment isn’t part of the deal will cost you more car deals than it makes you. The perfect cheapest OTD price means nothing when the customer can’t afford the payments. This advice is disingenuous at best.
@@jbarrett2227 this is just an old car dog teaching how to beat the old car dogs of the 80's and 90's, most of which do not apply today. Way to many people listen to advice like this thinking they are gonna "WIN" and they lose and so does the salesperson trying to make a living to feed thier families.
This is really quite good. The last new car I bought was in 2005. I bought an Acura TSX which had one option. So I called the only dealer in town and asked for an out the door price. I told the salesman I would buy the car for the best out the door price and I was willing to travel all over the southwest to pick it up. So please give it your best shot, first time. I got a price and then called five other dealers in the southwest. Then I emailed the low quote to the salesman and asked if he could do any better. He did. Picked up the car two days later. Credit union finance.
As an introvert and a soon-to-be US resident immigrant who doesn't like a salesperson's assistance while shopping, buying a car for the first time, and having to negotiate with dealership personnel will be an absolute nightmare. I know nothing about cars and much more in buying and owning one. I don't want a car but I know it's a necessity when I start living in the US. So, here I am at 3 am in the morning watching car youtube videos trying to equip myself with car knowledge and half-crying myself to sleep beacuse all this car info is giving me a mini mental breakdown 😂 But still, thank you for your videos as this does help in keeping me sane 😆 Kidding aside, your videos are helpful and informative. So, while I am still not on US soil, I shall practice what I have learned here and hopefully this will give me the upper CAR EDGE that I need when I will finally buy a car. Please pray for me 😂
I know this is an old post but if you are that nervous I recommend buying a used car from CarMax or Carvana. There is no negotiating. The price on the car is the price you pay. Heck, you can even do it all online and have them deliver the car to you. If you prefer new, you can buy a new Tesla the same way. No haggling, you just pay the price on the website.
I LOVED having an educated customer when I was selling - no easier deal than that. Just show 'em the options to fit their desire. They'll let you know if they want more. Boom, done, easy peasy.
Went car shopping, I was looking into a particular make & model. I told the salesman I would be trading in my current vehicle. The salesman has the "Used Car Manager" come to inspect my trade-in and asked for my keys. I took the model I was interested in for a 5 minute test drive. The "deal" started to sour when the numbers were too much, and I wanted to leave, but they kept me there for 45 minutes waiting for my car. Finally I walked to the far back lot of the dealership and found my car parked and locked. I ended up calling the cops. They could not find the "Used Car Manager" for another 20 minutes, when he was finally located, he said he had given the keys to an unidentified "mechanic", who couldn't be located either. All the time the "Sales Manager, Finance Manager, and two salesmen kept taking turns trying to "close" me. If you go to a dealership, lock your car, and don't give up the keys, and if anyone wants to inspect your car, go with them.
@DougsterCanada1 Wow! That’s crazy. I’ve never heard of anything like that. Needing to call the police to get your car keys while they were pressuring you. Geez. That’s awful. Glad you were able to resolve it and hopefully you left there asap! Yikes.
Always bring a newspaper (iPad something to do so they cannot bore you) and extra keys. A dealership tried to do this known trick to me and my dad. We said no worries we have extra keys but we are going to go look at cars at Honda or some other competition across the street while you guys look for our keys 😂 Never saw a salesman run so fast and magically our keys were found. It gives the buyer an upper hand when you out smart them too. The credit union gave me a lower rate because I got my car $4,000 under the invoice price. I learned too that if I dress like a redneck and bring in cheap food like McDonald's they do your car service really fast and nothing is wrong with the car as they want you out as fast as possible because you don't represent their brand and could cost them new sales 😂 Just book the service or recall repair during a busy sales day like the weekend. It's fun, I turn the TV to Jerry Springer or sports type trash shows too if I can and hoot and holler 😂😂😂
have another set of key in your pocket.. so if they try they shit you whip you extra key or key fob, unlock car and drive off.. come back the next day to get key and take 2K off your OTD price because of this stupid crap.. gotta send a message to the dirty dealers.
I JUST went through something similar with my Dad. He still thinks that saying "I'll pay cash" is somehow a good thing before we've even started talking price. I warned him not to say anything like that several times and he ended up slipping it in anyways! NEVER tell them you're going to pay cash until after you've talked about the price. It basically tells them they can charge whatever they want because you have the money. Best practice is to literally avoid any talk whatsoever about payment until a final price for the car is reached. Also, don't forget to ask the "out the door" price with dealer fees, tax, title, etc.. I've seen dealers now adding these $3,000 "Car Care Packages" to their sticker price and saying "Oh, well we already applied that package to the car...". No thanks!
Great advice! Yes, 😅 made this mistake as well, taught by my dad (who knew cars, it was his life). But that was a different era, when they actually made money from selling vehicles. Now all the money is in the financing. So they know if you have 75k for a new truck, what’s another 10k? They find a way. If I could do it over again, I would go through their whole financing deal, then right at the end before signing, make sure there is no penalty for early pay off.
Fun fact about that dealer scam, it is actually under review and being prosecuted by courts for deceptive trade practices and they aren’t supposed to be doing that anymore (so keep an eye out, and may depend on what state.) I remember the story popping up in my feed about this within the last few months
@@onefastboi14 Fantastic! I can't thank these guys enough tbh. I obsessed over these videos and went into the dealership totally prepared and fearless. They could tell I knew what I was doing and didn't play hardly any games with me. Walked out with a 2019 Honda Civic EX-L with only 19k miles on it. Got them down to under market value with the negotiation tactics learned here. It was such a rush lol.
@@Looey got em down to below market price! they instantly could tell i knew what i was doing and stopped playing games with me. they wanted the car sold. these videos were literally so helpful lol it was the best template and character to emulate.
Last car or two I’ve showed up with a laptop/iPad with a spreadsheet to calculate the loan details and all other fees. Let’s me double check their numbers live.
Just like you, I go in with a spreadsheet. Their monthly payments are always higher than what I calculate even using the same “price,” term length, rate, etc. (Sale Taxes are calculated.) They always manage to add in other products and fees, like GAP even though I always have a low LTV. In the finance office, they never print out all of the terms until the very end making it easy for them to hide their shenanigans. In my last deal, they switched to tablets for signing docs. You have to be on guard every single step of they way!
At a Toyota dealership, a salesman tried to sell my parents gap insurance but he lied about what gap insurance was. Make sure you read the contract and any paperwork first before signing anything. And if a salesperson is being pushy or cocky, walk away.
This is a great channel. I was at a Mazda dealer a while back and the salesman wouldn't stop harping about doing a trade in. I told him we could talk about that later but he kept coming back to it. Then the big boss man comes out to talk to us and says "Are you looking to do a trade in today?" The sales guy responds "He said he doesn't want to discuss anything about trade-ins." The boss man looks at me and says "Are you here to buy a car or are you just blowin smoke up my ass because I don't have time for that." I just walked off. Fuck that place. I don't have time for their manipulative nasty attitude. They literally saw me drive up in an 85 Nissan Pulsar so I don't know why they were nagging on a damn trade in.
I just purchased a new vehicle last week after watching your videos and using your email templates. I got a great deal and it was the easiest purchasing processing I've ever experienced. Thank you so much for these videos!
Best way to save money on a car from a dealership is to learn the local laws and values of the cars and come up with your own purchasing tactic. Mine was to use the "verbal agreement is a binding contract" law, so I let the sales person know I'd be recording. Then I let the sales person know I was in a rush with other appointments at other dealerships (put the pressure on). Then keep asking how much this car and that car are (cars I didn't want). Sales people will usually take a min or two to confirm the prices but if you overwhelm them enough they might slip up. In my case I was walking to leave and casually pointed at the car I actually wanted (a Jeep SRT) and said "so how much for this used gas guzzler?". I got lucky and the sales person said a price that was way below market value (the sales person must have mixed up the trim levels pricing), so I said "sold" and shook his and on the spot. The dealership realized what happened almost right away and refused to honor the deal, thankfully my local consumer protection backed me up (due to the consensual recording) and the car was mine for the quoted price (10k below market value). It was such a pleasure doing business!
@@Sye999 It is when you shake on it. Two people agree, shake and it’s done. Valid and legally binding. Need proof? That’s why the camera recording it is important. It’s the “witness”. To proof if needed. But the deal is valid with the handshake. No prices on products automatically turns my CBDC off.
@@Sye999correct. It is simply "an offer." But when the person you made the offer to AGREES to that offer, it's no longer "an offer," it's now "a deal" - as both parties made CONSENSUAL ACTIONS. If the dealership wasn't willing to honor that price, they shouldn't have made the offer. And they should have known the laws/rules as well as their customer.
One extremely important tip to always remember: do NOT buy a vehicle to impress anyone- a new girlfriend, your coworkers, or to make you feel good. If you do that, you'll be focused on the nice car, and not on the numbers. Remember, the power of WALKING AWAY.
I think it's ok to buy a car that makes you feel good. As long as you aren't spending more than you can afford. I bought a car 6 years ago that makes me feel good. I own it. It's now 12 years old and still makes me feel good. Feeling good about a car is about it being the right time, the right reliability, the right age at the right price.
And never feel guilty about disappointing the sales person. One time after I bought I saw the salesperson and he hardly even gave me a hello …. All the “charm” had vaporized … the last thing he wanted was to small talk with me. Never feel guilty about walking away - I repeat!
@gonnahavemesomefun couldn't agree more. My car is going on 19 years old and I love it to death because it looks great and makes me feel good. 19 years of feeling good is not to be underestimated. When I get out on the road after pulling out of my driveway I feel a stress relief thanks to my car every time. Put a price on that!!
People who're wise and frugal with their money, are not going to get themselves into a heavy debt when it's not necessary. That's a part of being a smart shopper. A person has to use common sense! Why get yourself into a $45,000.00 debt for brand new car, when there is nothing wrong with the vehicle that you already own and paid for.
I think another thing you should not tell the dealership early on is who you are financing your current potential trade-in with. My experience is that they can look it up and see what you owe when putting together a number for the trade. Several cars ago I stalled on this info and got several thousand more than what the car was currently worth, essentially a private seller number rather than a dealer trade. They gave me the number on the trade and as soon as the I told them who I had the loan with they were able to look up the 10-day payoff. The look on their face was priceless when they saw what I owed and what ther were giving me.
Great video !!! Back when I lived in Germany I loved buying cars and most of the car sales people were great to deal with. For a while I also started working this job there and I did very well. Then I moved to the US (Las Vegas) and suddenly I hate buying a car or motorcycles from a dealership. Most sales people here try to put so much pressure on you to close the deal directly, it's like their boss will beat them up when they don't sell me a car within the next 20 minutes. lol. Once three sales people were putting so much pressure on me to buy a motorcycle, that I just left the dealership, even when I was ready to buy it for the price they told me. But I am not signing a contract, because you point a "gun" on my head so I would not have made a deal with them even when they would give me that bike for free. Also all the time they need to ask their manager for something. Hey, when you are not even in the positon to talk about those things, why am I even wasting my time with you and do not make the deal with your manager directly? I sold hundreds of cars and only had to ask my manager about my deals 3-4 times, so something is very strange here with how the sales system here works. Guess the owners don't trust their own employees, or is this ask-my-manager thing just an other game they play for whatever reason? Customers are not stupid, make them a good offer, be honest to them and don't play stupid games and give them a bit time to decide and they will buy the car. That is the reason why they walked into the dealership in the first palce. But in the US I can 100% understand why people prefer to buy for example a Tesla which they can order just online, instead of dealing with shady salespeople. Must say that for example RV salespeople or other businesses, do a much better job. But car and motorcyles dealerships in Vegas is something I try to avoid at all cost.
I love when you guys do these videos. Every time I watch one I get more confident that the next time I go in to buy a car, I'll be able to respond correctly.
I’ve been taking my sweet time looking for my next vehicle and I’ve discovered that I’m the auto sales guys worst nightmare- the customer who doesn’t NEED a car right now. 😂 I’ve been calling ALL my local credit unions every month for six months waiting for the rates to drop.
Where I live you can't "shop around" and wait. If you stall for 10 minutes, someone else has bought the vehicle and there is no other inventory to choose from. I suppose if you don;t need a car....then what are you doing?
@@wesleybaker9724 Depends on make and model. Toyotas are like that right now. But Dodges? Not so much. As the economy turns, especially with inflation and higher interest rates, the popular makes where there is a shortage and the dealers going nuts, will take it in the shorts. They'll be no buyers.
I made some mistakes the first time buying a car when I was 22, helped by my father who had to cosign. When I was 29 and bought my next car I went in and said " I know what car, options, know how much I am paying, know how much my trade is worth, and if you do this right I'll be out of here by 8pm." I got within $200 on my trade (had mechanical issues), under my purchase price when I surprised them at the end by paying cash. Well...cash, but charging 10k and paying that off once I went to the bank the next week. Took about 45 extra minutes because they were slow coming down in price and they bought me food
I got ripped on my first dealer car too. It was used. They pulled the trick where they raise the price of the car I was buying by $1000 but also gave me an extra $1000 for the trade-in. The guy said it was to make the bank more likely to approve the loan but afterward I was told that it was so he could get a larger commission. Knowing this now, I would want a cut of that. You go ahead and raise the price $1000 but I need an extra $1300 for my trade.
Gracias a los dos!!! I bought a car two years ago with no credit history; loan rate was high undoubtedly. Now that my credit score is very respectable, I was able to refinance and ended up much better. I am about to purchase another car for my wife and thanks to you both, I can better negotiate the price of this vehicle.
On the question of “would you consider financing with us instead of your credit union?”, I told a dealer straight up recently that I’d only finance through my credit union so that I’d know who was servicing the loan. I already knew from past experience that dealers wouldn’t be able to beat the rate I get at my CU anyway.
I bought a Honda 2 yrs ago. Pre-approved from my Credit Union, and told 3%. Dealer insisted they use the same CU, but today's rate is 4%. Straight up lied right to me. Still bought it. Loan at 3%.
@@markwegner6100 I ended up backing out of my deal, but the dealer was telling me a rate 0.5% higher than the credit union was showing on their website that day if they’d have gotten the loan for me through them. So damned irritating.
It's POSSIBLE but unlikely they will beat a good outside interest rate. The dealer wants to get their cut of the financing also so beating low rates doesn't help their bottom line.
It’s been several years but the last car I bought the dealership coincidentally worked with my CU. The financing was the same thru the dealer or directly with my CU. I was surprised.
Because there’s another entity keeping them honest. The worst is when they work with shady lenders to bump your rate anyway and you THINK you’re getting a good rate @@wayne9518
My shopping strategy has always been to look for dealers that advertise beating anyones price...then I hunt for discounted online sale pricing and always walk in with that printout in hand. My last car was thousands under the window price where I bought...
I had a dealer once that I heard from someone else they advertised as half-off MSRP for a specific car. Went in, they said that's not true, but they had "big discounts". I walked. Went home, opened my mailbox to an ad from that dealer for........half-off MSRP.
Me and my girlfriend are looking to buy our very first vehicle from a dealership and these videos are extremely helpful, we are going to watch a lot of these. Thanks so much for your wisdom!
A good back up for a payment to take in as a negotiation for the customer is, if you’re part of a credit union they will be able to give you a great rate for a no down payment. Walk on with that and they will be competitive to the credit union pre approval. I used it and got a .5% interest rate from a dealer. This was in 2020 So great job on pointing that out.
For any big ticket items that I purchase, I always make it clear to the salesperson upfront that I refuse to discuss payment/financing until we agree upon the price; and if they keep trying to steer the conversation to it, they get two warnings that if they keep it up, I'll walk out the door and deal with another establishment... or worse... go to the competition.
Awesome tips, particularly pre-payment penalties. I am a cash buyer but if I can get a dealer loan and pay it off a few days later, in exchange for a lower out the door price, that's a win for both parties.
How is that a win for the dealer? The dealer sold the vehicle low and then, because you paid off the loan, did not receive a kick back from the bank on the loan. Actually a win for the customer.
@@scottr2706 - of course you're right, but a weak argument can be made that the dealer wins because the customer agrees to the terms and conditions of the dealer's own agreement. If the dealer doesn't like their own agreement there's little the customer can do to change that.
@@donaldlee6760It's like a restaurant selling an item cheap in hopes that the customer buys it and other stuff. If you just buy the cheap thing then the restaurant isn't winning even though you played by their rules.
@@zachansen8293 How much money do you make on a car sitting on the lot? Less than zero because of property taxes and insurance and security, etcetera. So if you sell the car with a loan and the buyer pays off the loan a few weeks or months later, how much money have you made? Well, you sold the car for a profit, you are no longer paying property tax on it, or insurance, or security, etcetera. So since most loans are made through third parties, you have lost no interest revenue, you made a profit, and your cost went down. How is that not a win for the dealer?
Here's one I experienced. I bought a brand new car. Just once in my entire 63 years. I financed through the dealer. I send extra every month. I Pay Attention! My Principal was NOT reflecting the Extra I sent. I called them. They said, "Oh! We thought we wanted to Prepay the Interest, on the loan. I'm glad I caught it. The next month I called for my "PayOff " amount. No more dealers for me since 2006. Except for basic service.
Great video! Knowing to deal with the OTD price over monthly payments + coming prepared with an approved loan helped me avoid so much of the usual dealer BS.
Great video. My GF and I are car shopping and these tips were perfect. The trade-in and focusing on OTD pricing will hopefully help us not get tricked.
I always say, I'm selling my vehicle myself or I might just keep it even as a third vehicle. Usually at some point they might ask again and I say well if you want to appraise it fine but I already know what I can sell it for myself. So far a dealer doesn't even come close and I LAUGH at their price...but it allows me to giggle at them. Hell I told the dealer I had a tint guy but sure quote me for window tint, and hood protection film etc...they came back with some nutty price of $3,000 I laughed, and said my guy charges for everything $800 and he also includes the headlights, trim pieces etc They guy just tossed the sheet in the trash. Know before you go.
Go in with an auto loan calculator… know about where you should be interest rate wise by checking with your bank first and know the approximate trade value by checking appraisal sites before going in. Then you can not be tricked. If you want an 8 hour sales process where you hold up the salesman and they end up hating you and you hate the experience, then follow these guys advice. If you want a good experience, come prepared with general knowledge and just be a decent human and they won’t trick you, can’t trick you, the process will be faster and you’ll actually be home in time to enjoy the rest of your day.
The last few vehicle purchases I made, I used the separate deal paradigm, and I told them walking in the door how it was going to go down. First, I found the vehicle I wanted at the price I was willing to pay. Second, I traded in my vehicle at the price I was willing to accept. Finally, I went into financing to discuss how we were going to pay for this. Each of the 3 deals was dependent upon the other two. I literally walked out the door twice on one occasion because I knew they were trying to stroke me and wear me down. Using the techniques you describe here, I got what I wanted at the price I found acceptable. Thank you for breaking it down like this here.
I just bought a used 2022 car. I was absolutely floored by the protection plans, refurbishment costs, etc. that so many dealerships try and scam you with. I was impressed with the out the door price from Auto Nation and will look to go there the next time I need a car. The ONLY place I found with straight-forward pricing.
I am learning a lot from your videos and thanks. On the add-on products, you should also ask if they are delivered by a 3rd party. Years ago I purchased an add-on vehicle maintenance program that was offered by the Dealership, but when the 3rd party went Bankrupt, the dealership no longer honored the maintenance program. Just a suggestion.
Great point!! The ONLY reason I agreed to the extended coverage on my Outback was that the protections were covered directly by Subaru and not some third party vendor. In fact, they made a point of telling me that.
My wife and I made the mistake in 2020 when we bought our new Honda CRV from a dealer in Florida. The sale's manager came up with a "menu" including three different "option menus"). All, add-ons. Of course, they made us pay outright for the etching on the windows which was already done on all of the vehicles on the lot. We got the usual extra coverage for small dings, and all... Turns out, those things are a scam. When we needed the, there was always a reason why they could not honor it. One example. I checked on the key replacement protection. The company had run out of business. The protection was no longer covered or rather was covered differently by the new company that took over that business. While the car was under warranty, I forced the dealer to reimburse us for a part of those and cancel, which they did. My advice: do not buy any of those add-ons.
Great video. As someone who has been buying cars as a consumer for over twenty years I have done everything mentioned in the video wrong (sometimes more than once).
Great advice! In 2005 I ordered a MINI Cooper S from Oxford, England with a five-year payment plan to BMW. In 2013 I traded that R53 in for a new, R56, MCS off the showroom floor, also with a five-year plan and my trade in value of $3K. I've had no car payments since 2018 when I finally paid it off. MINI continues to make me smile in retirement here in 2024. :)
Really like your work, guys! I can't begin to count the number of times I gave folks the same advice ( I was in sales, sales management, f & i, and corporate training for about 20 years...). OTD with a full disclosure of ridiculous fees and charges on a line by line explanation. Period. Also: know the actual charges for titling, registration, and so forth required by law where you live. Anything much beyond that is just garbage which you are paying for. Less than $50? Probably ok. Beyond that? You are a chump. If the dealer insists? Leave. Tell them not to bother calling you to " discount " these fees. They have already identified themselves as dishonest people. Why would you trust them now?
Hey zach!!! 100% always do the math on the menu items - i had a dealer that had the lowest price online but told me i had to choose one of the 3 pkgs of coverage , however the lowest 1st pkg was $68 over my base payment which is just over 4800 added to my loan amount to the most expensive at $116 over my base payment which is just over 8300 added to my loan amount just for some paper products i told them no on all of it and within a few minutes i was informed they could not sell to me cause it had a unrepaired recall which was a lie cause there were no recalls for that model, it wasnt until that moment that i realized i had just been a victim of false advertising - they knew they were not going to sell me the car unless i bought over 4800 of worthless paper smh
Isn't that just aggravating. I recently had a dealership tell me they wouldn't sell me the car unless I financed it through them. (I was a cash buyer) I hate dealerships. It's no longer about selling cars for them. It's about add-on fees and kickbacks from financial institutions. I'm done with dealerships. I'm just going to buy lightly used from private parties.
When I bought my 2017 Toyota Sienna, I financed through Toyota Financial Services as I was able to get 0% interest financing for 5 years and Costco Member Pricing. They tried to sell me all that extra menu items in the finance department and I straight up told them, my answer is a "NO" on all the things you want to sell me. They had the audacity to try to tack on the cost of some door edge trim strips that was already part of the sticker price after the fact to say they left that out and need to revise the invoice sheet (I got a discount off their sticker price). I told them I'm not going to pay extra for something that I'm already agreed to pay for, else remove it from the vehicle. Needless to say, it the salesman decided it was a non-issue so it stayed on and no invoice revisions.
Nowadays I pull out my GoPro and do a video on my experience...LOL Oh didn't I tell you I do UA-cam videos...LOL Which I really do so it helps. I play the game when needed on things.
Excellent! I’ve watched several of your videos and this is the most well done. I used to represent buyers and sellers in another industry. I would help get comfortable with themselves as a type of buyer. How much do they want to avoid allowing the anxiety of the process to spoil the “experience” of the purchase/sale. Put a price on that premium and own it. Priorities are 1) being treated fairly; and 2) not feeling stupid. Your list, etc. is great for one type of buyer but help the others adapt it. A very useful thing when working with couples is “One of you is buying shelter, transportation, a better oven, etc. The other is buying an experience.” If that is the case the best use of your time and money is maximizing the experience for the second person and it will be the best for the relationship. The second person won’t attach any disappointment in the experience to the first person. Your advice gives people control but doesn’t directly lower their anxiety about the whole process. Hence these suggestions. Keep up the good wortk……. And I love watching the two of you together.
You two have just mae my day. In the past, I have allwed myself to be horribly used by the dealership. This in turn, led to being horribly used by the bank. The next car, the dealership, AND the bank really stuck it to me. Years and years later, my credit repaired, being singnificantly wiser, being pretty sure what NOT to do, I am going in for another car yet again, but, this time, thanks in part to you, my eyes are open. I know to keep at that out the door price, and, frankly, I am my credit union have already discussed the numbers. I also know how to handle, or even not handle, my trade in. Thanks for the help, it is appreciated
When I bought my wife's car a few years I declined the extended warranty and the finance guy said well what if something major goes how will you fix it you aren't going to trade it in and let it be the new buyers problem are you,I said no disrespect to you sir but that's none of you business his eyes go big as saucers
It's hysterical to me how they threaten buyers about the possibility of "major repairs" to sell their warranties. I look at the options menu as a courtesy when they start their spiel, but after a minute I tell the finance person, "Look, I'm not going to buy any of this stuff and you have other buyers waiting to finance, so why don't we just go ahead and finish the paperwork?" Sometimes I get dirty looks, but I'm trying to save us both a lot of wasted time.
Solid tips were given in this video. I audit 8-10 dealers a year and it gives me a lot more experience with haggling than the average customer might have. One thing I noticed in my area, is that the KIA dealerships here love to try and tack on these bullshit safety packages. Depending on which dealer you go to, they will refuse to remove that 'option'. It's baked in profit, nothing more.
Nice, good tips. I would add that any dealer mark ups above MSRP are a strong sign to walk away. For my part I always look for an out the door price and expect 10% minimum to 20% discount off MSRP. Don’t expect this on order or specialty vehicles, the more rare the higher the price but for those mass vehicles sitting on the lot sinking in $$$ for insurance, definitely target a discount off MSRP!
Thanks guys. If the buyer concentrates on what you've just taught us, they will either get a great deal or get thrown out by a greedy dealership/salesman.
I love the way Zach thinks, He is the BEST as he THINKS for the CUSTOMER, I LOVE the WAY he does this. Keep up the GOOD work. DO you ASK for CASH PRICE or OTD first? Thank you
@NVRAMboi ...they don't want you to pay cash...they make money from you financing the car...No discount for paying cash...don't let them know your paying full in cash until you negotiate your best deal.
I wish I knew all of this when I was younger. All of this is fabulous advice. I like to work deal on phone, ask for an invoice and bring a check from my credit union for that amount. When the dealer tries the whole "we need to run your credit in case the check doesn't clear", I reply that I can wait until check clears and I can get vehicle then.
I run all the promos and the discounts and interest rate I want through a lease or purchase calculator before I go in. Then I have a payment number I can talk about, but it’s for the specific model and features I want. If they can’t get to that number in whatever time clock I decide to put them on, then no deal. But you’re giving them an answer right away to avoid more bs back and forth. The quicker you can move through the questions, the faster you can say yes or no to their offer and either buy or move on to another dealer.
In 1989, I pulled onto a dealership parking lot. A salesman greeted me as I approached the entrance to the showroom. My wife stayed inside our car. I asked him to point out the most expensive car on the lot. He smiled and pointed to a vehicle and started describing the features it had. I interrupted him snd told him not to let my wife get anywhere near it.
Being mechanically inclined, I've never accepted these extra options, although, I've never done the things that you have instructed me to do, like negotiating hard on a used trade in, or OTD pricing, or extra fees, you have taught me a lot.! Thank you very much.
I’m haven’t purchased a vehicle 🚗 since 2002 because I drove the same suv for 18 years…2000 GMCJimmy. However, I’m in the market for purchasing a vehicle and after experiencing what I did back when I bought my Jimmy I promised myself never to buy another vehicle financed through a dealership because I was clueless about all the things I’m now learning here on this Channel. A $14k+ ended up being a 21k+ purchase with all the fees and stuff I didn’t understand. Nevertheless, did all I could to pay that thing off before the time and saved me a little change so that’s why I decided to maintain the vehicle instead of buying another one when parts started breaking or malfunctioning and it’s still on the road. I relocated here to Houston a couple years now and left it to a good friend to use. I’m so grateful for all I’m learning here at this stage in my life. I’m almost 60 and don’t have money to waste. New Subscriber here thanking you for your much needed education ❤
Thanks for the tips. They WILL get used next time I buy. Btw, last Toyota I bought, the salesman went through his pitch on how reliable the car was. When I went into the finance office, the manager went through her pitch on how unreliable modern cars are, in an attempt to get me to buy an extended warranty. I mentioned their "interdepartmental paradox" they had going on. She grinned when I brought it up. I didn't buy the warranty, but I'm sure they screwed me in other nebulous ways.
@@jakecarstens3586most dealerships that sell new really don't make money it's the extras they try to tack on and the auction cars they buy low and of course if you bring it in to have it serviced.
I literally had a sales person say to me (at a high volume dealership) after the deal negotiation was done and i refused all the add-on's and extended warranty Blah, Blah, Blah, that basically it's okay they didn't make much profit off my deal because "we will make our money on the next customer" That's definitely why i choose to buy from a high volume dealer, the small low volume dealership (there are exceptions) don't have as many fish in the pond, which can make it more difficult to strike a good deal!
Great point. The Last vehicle I bought came from such a dealership, and I had to drive around 90 miles one way, but after working out a tentative deal on the phone, I saved around $10K compared with the lowest price my local dealer would offer for the exact same vehicle with the same MSRP. Well worth it. They just want to churn cars out at a profit and hope those happy customers come back. Great experience.
Wow ! What a rare video. I mean it. You don't see / hear many videos that actually help you, and show how normal human behavior needs to be altered, and how to do that for ones benefit. These lessons are useful for life in general. Primo.
I actually bought a car at a good price and financed it through the dealer. When all the paperwork was done, I looked over it carefully and there was about 2K worth of discrepancies. I think the finance guy tried to slip one past me. Sales apologized profusely, but that finance guy didn't seem happy.
That's exactly how l bought my last car! I went through my own bank so I knew how much I could spend, and I DID NOT buy any extras. ❤ these two know what they are talking about!!!
I’ve bought a number of vehicles in my time and it has always left a bad taste in my mouth. (Usually a such bad experience that i had to go home take a shower after the “encounter.”) Good advice gentlemen. Number one. Do not give out information except that you have an interest in the vehicle. Number two: insist repeatedly (and politely) on the OTD. Number three: offer 5% less on the the OTD. Number four: be ready and willing to walk away. There are plenty of other dealers and thousands of vehicles out there (including Canada (where I live…)).
Concerning extended warranties, the only one worth getting is the factory one extended. As in actual bumper to bumper coverage via Ford or GM. (as an example) Some manufacturers offer this, some do not, so check first. The real issue is 3rd party ones that are full of fine print and worthless coverage - just money in the dealer's pockets. In my case, I paid $700 to extend my 3/36 warranty to 5/100K as I was commuting and putting 20K a year on it. Worth it considering I had a $1200 repair covered at 40K miles. The same goes with factory parts. I've had dealers and repair shops routinely try to put on generic parts when there is a factory option available for a bit more money that carries a decent warranty on it. I own a Ford, so this is common, especially on things like batteries, struts, and so on. So not all warranties are bad - check the details.
@@sku32956 Again, it all comes down to economics - how much it is ( again, ONLY factory warranty, not via a 3rd party ), and how "reliable" the car is. If you can buy a new BMW and get an extended factory warranty to 7 or 8 years for under $1000, it's money well spent as something WILL break at 70-80K and likely require tne engine to be taken out. A Toyota? Yes, money wasted. Ford and GM? That's where it gets tricky, though most are reliable for at least 5-8 years now.
I've had dealerships refuse to allow me to even test drive vehicles when they knew I had my own financing. Now I never divulge that information until I'm in the finance office.
My local CJDR dealership is giving a lifetime powertrain warranty on all new CJDR vehicles. Also, you guys are spot on with the dealer verbiage. I’ve heard the exact speech from salesmen and FM over and over.
Appreciate you guys, this appears to be honest advice. Definitely confirms why I despise dealerships and salesman. I’d like to see the entire industry shift to a buy direct model with support distributed. for sustainment only.
Such great information, i can see where they get me into how much you want to pay per month. I find it so hard when i ask the OTD cost, they keep getting me back to how much you want to pay per month, how much deposit, etc.! I still haven't found a car at a price i want for used car (i find the used are still quite expensive). Just love listening to you guys, eventually i'll be able to get them to give me the OTD price! Thanks again for your your videos. Really appreaciate it!. Lynne in Ottawa, Canada
I bought my daughter's Fusion years ago. The salesman talked about where I was going to finance. I explained I already have a rate with my credit union. He actually asked me what it was. I told him you go get a rate and I'll let you know which one I choose. He came back with a rate 2% lower than my credit union. Never let them know your rate!
Just bought a 2024 Camry LE 4 banger, 8 speed auto, w/o hybrid five days ago. Got hit for $395 paint protection but nothing else. Financed through a nearby credit union. Thanks guys! Love the car!!!!!
You could've gotten the same model a few years older for probably 15k less and your payment will be in the mid 2s for the exact same car just different year.
There was a dealer the wife and i went to, i was pre approved, and we looked at a car we both liked i asked what would the out the door price be and she said, i cant do it, we have to do a credit pull on you and get you financing, to see where your monthly payments would be, i said no, i am approved already, i am going us my bank, i just want the out the door price, she said well then you have to pull credit, and the wife and i walked away, walked across the street, told the dealer same thing, they didnt do some shady bs, said x price, and i said i want x price, we settled and i paid them and that was that
I went to a used dealer a long time ago and they wanted to pull my credit before they would tell me the listed price. I walked. Anyone that tries pulling this crap deserves to lose business.
Another thing to watch out for is credit checks. Some dealerships want you to sign an application that allows them to put your application out to several lenders, not just in-house. Your one signature ends up authorizing 10-15 hard checks on your credit. I found this out the hard way when I bought my first house. My credit score dropped approximately 15 points from all of the hard pulls. Since that happened, I only use my credit union for financing (so I don’t know if things have changed). If you go through a dealership for financing, I’d say “I only authorize X number of financial institutions to pull my credit.” Yes, some local bank 400 miles away might finally get you the numbers you’re looking for, but the lowered credit score can end up costing you more down the line.
Good tips. We don't buy new cars, nor do we buy cars we can't pay outright. The last time we bought a car we walked out on the dealer because he tried to sell us a vehicle with more options than we wanted to pay for. Well, the dealer one town over was happy to provide exactly the vehicle we asked for. We usually buy vehicles on a loan from the dealer because that gives you a better price than a cash deal these days (because the dealers think they get the kickback from the banks). We then walk out and pay off the loan.
I was straight up. I told them my trad and how much cash I was willing to put down. I knew the car I wanted invoice so I gave them a fair offer and said they either agree or we don't have a deal. THAT simple. They made it work.
Also, do you really want to buy any protection plan for a depreciating asset? Buying extra coatings, sealants, tire warranties, or maintenance plans will not increase the value of that sinking ship as time goes on. On top of that those plans are being added into the financed amount so you are paying interest on those products every month, year, and so on. Just get your best price and best interest rate and pay the regular maintenance out of pocket. Retailers will always try to sell you a protection plan on your new Apple device too. If something happens to it in the first year and you try to get some help from that protection plan the retailer will first tell you to contact Apple directly because it will most likely fall under the manufacturers original warranty first. They will not offer any assistance until after you have first tried to get the device repaired under the original manufacturers warranty. So that 2 year protection plan is really only good during year 2 of ownership, the first year is all gravy.
As a long time rule, I refuse all of the (F&I) add-ons. I'm here for this vehicle at this price. I do not trust anyone's 'extended warranty' from my own experiences.
This is good insight. My wife and I turn down all extended warranty offers no matter what the product is. Even if something were to go wrong, it is far quicker and easier to pay a repair shop or technician directly.
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My response - "Payment will be determined by the price, so let's get to that." I'll tell a salesperson twice max that I want the OTD price - if they keep going back to other subjects, I get up and walk out. It definitely gets their attention, and they either get to the numbers or I'm gone.
Nice! I've walked out on so many salespeople. At Auto Nation, I had them buy me lunch, and then I left. They were trying to push all these extras, they sent 3 salespeople over to try to convince me. Really pissed me off! I also buy used cars and I make them let me take it to my mechanic to inspect the car. The mechanic charges $100, and he will check up to 3 cars for you for that price. Walked out on another when they said $1000 window tint was a mandatory add on and they wouldn't take that charge out. I laughed in their face and walked out. If I'm buying a car, I get prepared for battle! Really unfortunate that they push nice people into that mentality, but I'm definitely not getting ripped off for some BS! I'm a different person when dealing with scummy salespeople.
Then when we walk out with a payment yall are the type to not sign and say the payment is too high 😂😂😂
@@alfonsoaquino5674 - there's a '22 Aviator BL in the garage and a '22 Ram 3500 in the garage that says you're wrong. But I had to fly to OK to buy the Ram when our local dealer thought he could play "chicken" with the price, betting I wouldn't go out of state to get the deal I wanted....he lost.
@@GeorgeMandry Just like there is a lot of dealers there is a lot of customers. You lost the chance to make business with them and so did they. It’s just how it works bud
@@alfonsoaquino5674 - I went back in with the BO in hand - might also mention I'd bought one from them 3 years prior. Made no difference - they insisted on their $10k "premium". THEY lost the chance, not I. Because when it's time to buy another one, guess who will NOT get first consideration?
1 do you have a monthly budget - out the door price
2 how much cash are you putting down - out the door number again
3 do you have a trade in - haven’t decided, concentrated on out the door number, again..
4 what loan term are you comfortable with - know what you’re approved for
5 would you finance through us - need a better rate than currently
6 protection menu - can I see a break down for each item (base payment)
7 pre payment penalties
I love it short and to the point!
Thanks for creating the short list, for the deaf.
You are welcome.
Exactly. And check w/ your Credit Union. Mine offered that I could skip a payment a year if needed. Granted, that was added on the backside of the loan term, but is good if there's an emergency. I also got a shorter term loan, short enough to pay off before the first expected repair. I figured, if I couldn't pay it in 4 years, I couldn't afford that car.
@@mikep490 I used to work for an auto loan company and that was something that many companies will do so that you can avoid a credit hit. Realize of course that not only is that payment put on the end of the loan, but also, you're going to pay interest on that additional balance throughout the remainder of the loan, so if your payment was $700 a month, you may see an additional $200 or more due whenever you take advantage of an extension depending on the term. So if you do that every chance you get, it could add up and not only will you have the additional payments, but possibly over $1000 in interest to pay.
This is why I negotiate by email.
"I'm looking for Brand Model with XYZ options in red or blue. Please send me your best out the door price."
Send that to every dealer within a 5 hour drive, pick the one I like, ask for paperwork, and send a deposit to hold the car. By the time I show up its just "sign here" and turn down the usuall dealer fluff, then drive home. Total time in the dealer 30-45 minutes.
I have had dealers follow up womdering why I didnt buy the car "Another dealer beat your price."
"You should have given us a chance to beat them!"
"I asked for your best price, you didn't send it, so I went with the dealer that did."
Maybe the dumbest negotiation tactic ever
This is actually smart and saves time
I just delete your lead…next!
I actually used this strategy for years and always get price under invoice. I actually take it one step further. Do your preliminary research so you can always have good sense of MSRP and Invoice pricing. Then once you know that, when reaching out, ask for invoice price or close to it. Once one dealership bites, email the rest again, to let them know “I know I can get the car at this xxx price. Can you beat it?” You’ve essentially started a bidding war between the dealerships for your business. Works like a charm.
@@davidcouzensonly idiots walks in blindly to a car dealership looking for a car they want. For one, how do you even know that particular dealership has the exact car with all the specs in stock?
Went in to buy my last daily driver, a 2020 Hyundai Accent, with these kinds of tips in mind. I'd already gotten the vin of the car I wanted, I'd already been pre-approved by the credit union holding my previous car loan, and I'd already gotten an OTD price from a salesman over the phone. After I arrived the salesman almost botched the deal when I told him I was pre-approved somewhere else. He actually said "You didn't tell us you already had approval before we started discussions." Yeah exactly, I didn't mention it for a reason lol. He left the room frustrated, acting as though this was a possible deal breaker and I was ready to leave the dealership. The sales manager then had to come in and save the deal by mentioning that the dealership maybe able to get me a better rate, which to their credit they did actually accomplish. I'm assuming the obviously inexperienced salesman learned something that day. When the salesman acted like I'd 'hidden' something from the dealership it offended me and I almost left. Don't let the dealerships ever make you feel like your buying tactics are somehow underhanded, they are more than happy to use underhanded tactics to take your money.
all that over a hyundai accent
Nothing underhanded about what you did.
Was none of his stinking business what you do. I wish one would say something to me like that. I don’t play their dumb games.
Let's be honest, with all due respect to this channel's creators. Dealerships are full of scum who couldn't become Lawyers. It is a full out chess match, so go armed with knowledge.
@@MikeGervasi you got that right. I’m still driving my 2019 Toyota RAV4 haven’t had to do any dealings since then. I dread the day I do
I worked at a dealership where we showed the OTD, finance options, and lease options on new cars. I don't understand why everyone doesn't do that. Literally makes it easier for all parties involved
There are few dealerships near me that do exactly that. Saves a lot of effort. And adjusting the payments after agreeing to a new OTD doesn’t take much time.
Exactly, get the customer into a car faster so you can get to the next one.
All dealers show the OTD amount, most show their finance options, and many provide lease options. Showing these things does not inherently mean the dealer is honest,
Showing the OTD amount without a detailed breakdown of that amount is the issue. Things like all those fake fees and overpriced add-ons.
When it comes to financing, few dealers show the buy rate. Almost every dealer bumps the buy rate which means the customer pays too much interest.
But if all you care about is the OTD number...then why do the fees matter? So if I have MORE FEEs than my competitor, but I'm less expensive OTD Why does it matter?
@@scottr2706
I always tell them I want to pay $1 a month. They love it
Purchasing a Toyota I found the one I wanted and knew what I wanted to pay, not a lowball number. Salesman came back and said here are the numbers you need to make an offer. I told him to give me their number and I would buy the truck. He danced around and the third time I requested a number and didn’t get a reply I walked out. I called the next dealer and explained what happened. They said here is the number. I bought that truck. A good salesman will listen to the customer. If they don’t listen move on…
What do you mean by “their number,” when you asked them to give you their number?
@@KennyBucketz I asked them to give me their number, price, so I could buy it. The salesman wouldn’t give me a price, just something above $xx, so I walked out. A more experienced salesman may have realized he could make a sale by giving me a number. This young one was too afraid to give me a number was my impression. The reality was I didn’t care what the number was. I wanted the truck and didn’t want to haggle. The next dealer understood that and got the sale.
@@grailguns7278 You pay either with your time or with money so if you have money, you saved your time and frustration.
How can you even legally try to sell something without telling someone what the price is lol
@@grailguns7278 good for you. Their games are annoying
After watching you two I fixed my old cars and saved thousands.
No you didn't.
@@MoSec9 Yes I did because I’m a genius mechanic. From the river to the sea, Israel will be free.
Yes it will. One day. PTL@@Zindo.Majesty.HisMajesty
@@Zindo.Majesty.HisMajestybest. possiblle. Response. 👏
Strangely enough, I just went to buy a shiny new car and decided to stay with my shiny older car because it has been well maintained by a well educated owner. Oh and the deal wasn’t to my liking either.
As someone who sells cars, this is great info. Absolutely nothing wrong with a client being educated and having a reasonable expectation of what to expect. If a customer comes in prepped like this, and aren’t playing a bunch of games- it puts the salesperson at ease to move through the deal quickly and efficiently. It’s embarrassing to me how some dealers play games with people. It shouldn’t be difficult and stressful to buy a car. It should be fun!
If I had $60k to buy a new truck right now, I’d come buy from you today.
Yeah most do play games and most get away with it I would say. It’s really disgusting. To me it’s actually “stealing” from people.
I went to a dealership once and asked for the OTD. The salesperson came up with the price, and a breakdown of all fees. We discussed the price and fees, got the deal done. I had a loan pre-approved, but they were able to get me a better rate than my bank. I don't believe it took more than 30 minutes to have everything done. Good for me and for the gentleman, who had time to spend selling car to other people too.
@@cardiogirl798 They all are totally disgusting
@@cardiogirl798 I dread the next time I buy one. I do have more insight now since last time in 2019
I purchased a new truck a couple of years ago. I did not talk money till I was in financing. Once I got the the out the door price we went to financing. When asked how I was paying I said CASH! The look on his face was priceless. He said I did not see that coming. I said I know. He said he could not take cash. I said no problem. My bank was 2 miles away. My wife drove to the bank with the cash and came back with a cashiers check. He was not happy. They were used to having complete control over financing. They did not like losing that control.
Did your city throw a parade for you?
Does your city know your a richard??@@josemv25
Oh yeah I pay cash got my own insurance they get no backhanders they hate that
I got an otd price and then said I was paying cash. Salesman said they needed to add $2000 to the otd price if it was cash and not financing with them. I said "so either you charge me more for financing or you charge me more for paying cash?" He said yes. Wouldn't budge. I walked out, got the same model at another dealer at a better otd price... paying cash. Just ridiculous!
@@josemv25they should have lol
I just go in - totally prepared on the exact vehicle I’m planning to buy - and tell them what I’m willing to pay out the door with my checkbook and pen in hand. If they start hemming and hawing, I say, “See ya when you’re ready!”, and I walk out the door. Works every time! Dad taught me well!
My revivifier does not "go in" to enemy territory. Doc bought a Caravan online in 2012, and a Mercedes-Benz in 2017. The M-B came from a Montreal dealer who shipped it to Doc's home in Nova Scotia.
@@FrunkensteinVonZipperneckrevivifier? A what?
@@mikedfurman you’re not the only one scratching your head on that one lol, i too was wondering this 🤔😂
@@mikedfurman
This is a bot trying to get in on the conversation. Using revivifier in that context does not work. To revivify is to put energy or new life into something.
@@elonever.2.071 I dont think it counts in ANY context.... ever!
1. Sell your car separately 2. Get the out the door price, don’t tell them what you are willing to pay per month 3. Finance on your own through your own bank 4. Call your insurance company to see what the insurance price may be. When you do these things, they squirm because they know you’re educated. Yes, ask for a breakdown and what was the base payment.
Having a well-diversified portfolio is essential for financial success. A financial advisor can provide expert guidance, minimize risks, and offer insights on profitable investments. They bring experience and expertise, ensuring your portfolio is optimized for success. It's like having a trusted ally by your side, helping you achieve your financial goals..
I buy what I can afford in cash. Rates being high means the price will fall, eventually anyways. Then you pounce. Buy from a private seller as well, because their price will be down as well.
@PeteMcGregor632 no shit. Free of charge. Fire your financial advisor.😅😂😅😂
I also heard it's best to buy when prices and interest rates are low is the best time to buy😂😅😂😅😂
@PeteMcGregor632If you're going to run fake comments as a means to advertise, don't make it seem so obvious. You've made it look like a third grader did it. Really weak.
I pulled a deal I never dreamt of pulling if I hadn’t learned this treasure that you guys are spreading. Much appreciate and God bless you father and son.
Shaking my head at myself. I've always gone in focused on the monthly payment (because I am concerned about the monthly payment amount!), so I'm glad I've been watching your videos about OTD pricing, etc. Stay strong and focused prospective car shoppers! Stand firm.
Most people are concerened with monthly payment as thats how we budget. Most people don't know how to accurately compute a monthly payment on the "out the door" price they are trying to achieve. My advice, build a relationship with salesperson you trust at a dealership you trust. They will give you options and help you reach your budget. I can't tell you the amount of customers that say they want a $400 payment, but are looking at a $900 per month out the door car. Any reputable car dealer will provide with your out the door cost as soon as the both of you know which car you are there to buy. Your out the door cost will be affected by your trade in, whether you have equity or not, yes they will try ot hold a little back on trade in, so just know that after they appraise it, just work you numbers out and ask for another thousand on your trade value. Boom.
There’s a billion easy auto loan calculators out there. You can concentrate on both the monthly and the OTD at the same time without making your salesperson start with the out the door, only to have you then be shocked that your payment is too high for you when that could have been discovered much sooner if either you came in having already looked at this, or if you just let your salesperson do his/her process. Go in with knowledge and no one is surprised or can be tricked, and the process is faster for everyone
Not stand firm
They will waste hours of your time to wear you down if you let them.
Why would you even need to think about payments when at a dealer? You shouldn't be financing through a dealership anyway because the financing fees and interest are always terrible. Finance it through a credit union or reputable a bank that will offer you good rates and you can negotiate payments with them.
Great advice! Great video! I recently went to a Hyundai dealer less than a half mile from my house to purchase a new hybrid. I had an OTD cash price already in mind and told the sales rep that's what I wanted to pay. He laughed and said if I could get that price OTD, definitely buy it from that dealer and come back to tell him so he could get the hybrid for that price. Well, I purchased the hybrid from a Hyundai dealer seven miles away for my asking price. Now, I refuse to get my service done at the dealership near my house and I tell all my friends and co-workers to avoid that dealership. I am staying loyal to the dealership that was willing to work with me.
Total turds: car salesmen ,ambulance chasers and Rich Men North of Richmond.
I was in dealer funding at a major sub prime auto lender. Everything presented here is spot on advice and super helpful for people not in the know. I know when i went theough our training i was shocked at how ripped off i was in my own prior purchases and even ran home after work to pull my RICs to see just how many products i bought with my cars, most of which were useless junk or simply add on fees for the convenience of the dealershio faxing in my application.
Bottom line is that almost anything the dealer tries to sell you outside of the actual vehicle is garbage that should never be financed, especially if you are sub prime and not getting an excellent rate. In todays higher interest market it is incredibly stupid financing lifetime oil changes, window etching, floor mats, extended warranties, and even GAP.
Nowadays dealers hate me because I only want to talk price and won't buy anything without wheels attached to it. And if they insist that you pay any of those BS "document fees" you just get up and walk out. If they even let you get to the door I'd be surpised, but if they do they'll still be calling you up within an hour offering to drop it.
I have NEVER discussed a car payment with ANY salesman!!! They hate me at a car lot! My first gesture while shaking hands is.. HI… I’m already pre approved for my budget!!. So how much out the door is THAT vehicle!!!. They literally don’t even wanna talk anymore!!!. Y’all are exactly right on this!!!☝️🤣🤣🤣
They hate you because you won’t let them scam you. Think about that.
you're full of shit. Sit down.
I helped my mom buy a car and knew she planned to pay cash. I let the salesman think we had to get approval and asked if the price listed was accurate. He said yes. So I told him we only have [$3000 less] cash to complete the purchase. Asked if they can negotiate. He did a double take and went back to the manager. Ended up taking almost 2k off
I helped my mom buy a car and knew she planned to pay cash. I let the salesman think we had to get approval and asked if the price listed was accurate. He said yes. So I told him we only have [$3000 less] cash to complete the purchase. Asked if they can negotiate. He did a double take and went back to the manager. Ended up taking almost 2k off
I just want to say THANK YOU guys so much. I’ve been researching for several months in prep to buy a car and found y’all along the way. I watched all your vids and did all my homework. Today was the day to finally go to the dealership and they played the game exactly the way you said they would and I handled it exactly the way you advised. The sales guy was a bit frustrated with me by the end BUT I got the exact car I wanted and got fantastic deal on it with monthly payments LESS than I calculated during my prep. I hope every car buyer uses your advice and drives out happy
Absolutely spot on advice. OTD (out the door) price is the only thing that matters and should be the focus on any negotiations.
Indeed. I can't believe a salesperson would go and on asking all types of questions with a potential buyer of a car....WITHOUT saying what the price of the car. That's the first thing I need to know before talking at length with a salesperson. I need to know this to know if the car is worth buying in the first place.
@@richardharris3423 because most people are stupid and don't negotiate the price of the vehicle: they just negotiate the size of the monthly payment. Sales guy will just pad the price and add years to the loan term to get the monthly payment where the sucker (customer) wants it at.
It is not the only thing that matters. Not in the slightest. How you believe that baffles me. If you are coming in with cash in hand I agree. But most people pay monthly and to put everything on an out the door price for someone who has a monthly budget doesn’t make sense. You are wasting the customers and salespersons time when you only address the OTD price.
Salesperson: Ok customer here’s your OTD price like the person in a UA-cam comment section said about July you only needed to focus on. it’s 2 grand under invoice. Customer: Oh that’s great! How much is that payment as I am financing it. Salesman: Well it’s $725 a month. Customer: Oh no I can only afford $425. Salesman: Oh well can you afford the extra three hundred a month or would you rather look at another car that isn’t what you wanted or you aren’t excited about? The $12,000 to $ 15,000 less car that fits their budget won’t measure up to the other car. This inevitably leads to the customer wanting to go home “and think about it”. Never to be seen again. As the next salesperson who looks at the entire situation sells them a car.
This isn’t a binary thing. It has many moving pieces and can they afford the payment Is one of those pieces. Because the best out the door price is useless when you can’t afford the payments.
There are 3 and sometimes 4 things affecting a car deal. Price, cash down, trade and payment. Pretending the payment isn’t part of the deal will cost you more car deals than it makes you. The perfect cheapest OTD price means nothing when the customer can’t afford the payments. This advice is disingenuous at best.
@@jbarrett2227 get your own financing (at your own banks) and leave the car salesman out of your personal finances.
@@jbarrett2227 this is just an old car dog teaching how to beat the old car dogs of the 80's and 90's, most of which do not apply today. Way to many people listen to advice like this thinking they are gonna "WIN" and they lose and so does the salesperson trying to make a living to feed thier families.
This is really quite good.
The last new car I bought was in 2005. I bought an Acura TSX which had one option.
So I called the only dealer in town and asked for an out the door price.
I told the salesman I would buy the car for the best out the door price and I was willing to travel all over the southwest to pick it up. So please give it your best shot, first time.
I got a price and then called five other dealers in the southwest.
Then I emailed the low quote to the salesman and asked if he could do any better.
He did. Picked up the car two days later. Credit union finance.
My wife and I have a system. She haggles and I as a 42 year mechanic check it out. Always works
As an introvert and a soon-to-be US resident immigrant who doesn't like a salesperson's assistance while shopping, buying a car for the first time, and having to negotiate with dealership personnel will be an absolute nightmare. I know nothing about cars and much more in buying and owning one. I don't want a car but I know it's a necessity when I start living in the US. So, here I am at 3 am in the morning watching car youtube videos trying to equip myself with car knowledge and half-crying myself to sleep beacuse all this car info is giving me a mini mental breakdown 😂 But still, thank you for your videos as this does help in keeping me sane 😆 Kidding aside, your videos are helpful and informative. So, while I am still not on US soil, I shall practice what I have learned here and hopefully this will give me the upper CAR EDGE that I need when I will finally buy a car. Please pray for me 😂
I know this is an old post but if you are that nervous I recommend buying a used car from CarMax or Carvana. There is no negotiating. The price on the car is the price you pay. Heck, you can even do it all online and have them deliver the car to you.
If you prefer new, you can buy a new Tesla the same way. No haggling, you just pay the price on the website.
I LOVED having an educated customer when I was selling - no easier deal than that. Just show 'em the options to fit their desire. They'll let you know if they want more. Boom, done, easy peasy.
Went car shopping, I was looking into a particular make & model. I told the salesman I would be trading in my current vehicle. The salesman has the "Used Car Manager" come to inspect my trade-in and asked for my keys. I took the model I was interested in for a 5 minute test drive. The "deal" started to sour when the numbers were too much, and I wanted to leave, but they kept me there for 45 minutes waiting for my car. Finally I walked to the far back lot of the dealership and found my car parked and locked. I ended up calling the cops. They could not find the "Used Car Manager" for another 20 minutes, when he was finally located, he said he had given the keys to an unidentified "mechanic", who couldn't be located either. All the time the "Sales Manager, Finance Manager, and two salesmen kept taking turns trying to "close" me. If you go to a dealership, lock your car, and don't give up the keys, and if anyone wants to inspect your car, go with them.
@DougsterCanada1 Wow! That’s crazy. I’ve never heard of anything like that. Needing to call the police to get your car keys while they were pressuring you. Geez. That’s awful. Glad you were able to resolve it and hopefully you left there asap! Yikes.
Holy cow. Wow!!! Never heard of that technique but I am not surprised . Glad you called the police. I would have too.
Always bring a newspaper (iPad something to do so they cannot bore you) and extra keys. A dealership tried to do this known trick to me and my dad. We said no worries we have extra keys but we are going to go look at cars at Honda or some other competition across the street while you guys look for our keys 😂 Never saw a salesman run so fast and magically our keys were found. It gives the buyer an upper hand when you out smart them too. The credit union gave me a lower rate because I got my car $4,000 under the invoice price.
I learned too that if I dress like a redneck and bring in cheap food like McDonald's they do your car service really fast and nothing is wrong with the car as they want you out as fast as possible because you don't represent their brand and could cost them new sales 😂 Just book the service or recall repair during a busy sales day like the weekend. It's fun, I turn the TV to Jerry Springer or sports type trash shows too if I can and hoot and holler 😂😂😂
have another set of key in your pocket.. so if they try they shit you whip you extra key or key fob, unlock car and drive off.. come back the next day to get key and take 2K off your OTD price because of this stupid crap.. gotta send a message to the dirty dealers.
My mom had a dealer throw her keys on the roof of the building, telling her she needed to buy from them. She didn't.
I JUST went through something similar with my Dad. He still thinks that saying "I'll pay cash" is somehow a good thing before we've even started talking price. I warned him not to say anything like that several times and he ended up slipping it in anyways! NEVER tell them you're going to pay cash until after you've talked about the price. It basically tells them they can charge whatever they want because you have the money.
Best practice is to literally avoid any talk whatsoever about payment until a final price for the car is reached. Also, don't forget to ask the "out the door" price with dealer fees, tax, title, etc.. I've seen dealers now adding these $3,000 "Car Care Packages" to their sticker price and saying "Oh, well we already applied that package to the car...". No thanks!
Great advice! Yes, 😅 made this mistake as well, taught by my dad (who knew cars, it was his life). But that was a different era, when they actually made money from selling vehicles. Now all the money is in the financing. So they know if you have 75k for a new truck, what’s another 10k? They find a way.
If I could do it over again, I would go through their whole financing deal, then right at the end before signing, make sure there is no penalty for early pay off.
Fun fact about that dealer scam, it is actually under review and being prosecuted by courts for deceptive trade practices and they aren’t supposed to be doing that anymore (so keep an eye out, and may depend on what state.)
I remember the story popping up in my feed about this within the last few months
As salesman can only get your money if you let them. There are plenty of cars, be patient.
The best car you bought is the one you didn't and left it in the dealership and bought the same vehicle elsewhere
Attempting to buy for the first time today. Thanks y'all. WIsh me luck!
How’d it go? What were you trying to buy?
@@onefastboi14 Fantastic! I can't thank these guys enough tbh. I obsessed over these videos and went into the dealership totally prepared and fearless. They could tell I knew what I was doing and didn't play hardly any games with me. Walked out with a 2019 Honda Civic EX-L with only 19k miles on it. Got them down to under market value with the negotiation tactics learned here. It was such a rush lol.
How did it go?
@@Looey got em down to below market price! they instantly could tell i knew what i was doing and stopped playing games with me. they wanted the car sold. these videos were literally so helpful lol it was the best template and character to emulate.
Congratulations!!
Last car or two I’ve showed up with a laptop/iPad with a spreadsheet to calculate the loan details and all other fees. Let’s me double check their numbers live.
There are several free loan amortization templates available.
And I just got an IPad
Just like you, I go in with a spreadsheet. Their monthly payments are always higher than what I calculate even using the same “price,” term length, rate, etc. (Sale Taxes are calculated.) They always manage to add in other products and fees, like GAP even though I always have a low LTV. In the finance office, they never print out all of the terms until the very end making it easy for them to hide their shenanigans. In my last deal, they switched to tablets for signing docs. You have to be on guard every single step of they way!
William, I am so proud of you.
If you need a computer to figure out if a deal is a deal, you should not buy online. I can calculate a lease in my head within $10 a month.
At a Toyota dealership, a salesman tried to sell my parents gap insurance but he lied about what gap insurance was. Make sure you read the contract and any paperwork first before signing anything. And if a salesperson is being pushy or cocky, walk away.
This is a great channel. I was at a Mazda dealer a while back and the salesman wouldn't stop harping about doing a trade in. I told him we could talk about that later but he kept coming back to it. Then the big boss man comes out to talk to us and says "Are you looking to do a trade in today?" The sales guy responds "He said he doesn't want to discuss anything about trade-ins." The boss man looks at me and says "Are you here to buy a car or are you just blowin smoke up my ass because I don't have time for that." I just walked off. Fuck that place. I don't have time for their manipulative nasty attitude. They literally saw me drive up in an 85 Nissan Pulsar so I don't know why they were nagging on a damn trade in.
I just purchased a new vehicle last week after watching your videos and using your email templates. I got a great deal and it was the easiest purchasing processing I've ever experienced. Thank you so much for these videos!
That’s dope. Hope I could do the same. What email templates?
You think you got a good deal. The dealer always wins
Best way to save money on a car from a dealership is to learn the local laws and values of the cars and come up with your own purchasing tactic. Mine was to use the "verbal agreement is a binding contract" law, so I let the sales person know I'd be recording. Then I let the sales person know I was in a rush with other appointments at other dealerships (put the pressure on). Then keep asking how much this car and that car are (cars I didn't want). Sales people will usually take a min or two to confirm the prices but if you overwhelm them enough they might slip up. In my case I was walking to leave and casually pointed at the car I actually wanted (a Jeep SRT) and said "so how much for this used gas guzzler?". I got lucky and the sales person said a price that was way below market value (the sales person must have mixed up the trim levels pricing), so I said "sold" and shook his and on the spot. The dealership realized what happened almost right away and refused to honor the deal, thankfully my local consumer protection backed me up (due to the consensual recording) and the car was mine for the quoted price (10k below market value). It was such a pleasure doing business!
Their own fault for not putting sales prices on the cars. The verbal word they gave "is the price".
Makes no sense. A verbal offer is exactly what it is, an offer to purchase and not binding.
I love stories where the customer can outsmart the dealer and really stick it to them. Well played!
@@Sye999 It is when you shake on it. Two people agree, shake and it’s done. Valid and legally binding. Need proof? That’s why the camera recording it is important. It’s the “witness”. To proof if needed. But the deal is valid with the handshake.
No prices on products automatically turns my CBDC off.
@@Sye999correct. It is simply "an offer." But when the person you made the offer to AGREES to that offer, it's no longer "an offer," it's now "a deal" - as both parties made CONSENSUAL ACTIONS.
If the dealership wasn't willing to honor that price, they shouldn't have made the offer.
And they should have known the laws/rules as well as their customer.
One extremely important tip to always remember: do NOT buy a vehicle to impress anyone- a new girlfriend, your coworkers, or to make you feel good. If you do that, you'll be focused on the nice car, and not on the numbers. Remember, the power of WALKING AWAY.
I think it's ok to buy a car that makes you feel good. As long as you aren't spending more than you can afford. I bought a car 6 years ago that makes me feel good. I own it. It's now 12 years old and still makes me feel good. Feeling good about a car is about it being the right time, the right reliability, the right age at the right price.
And never feel guilty about disappointing the sales person. One time after I bought I saw the salesperson and he hardly even gave me a hello …. All the “charm” had vaporized … the last thing he wanted was to small talk with me. Never feel guilty about walking away - I repeat!
I just screen grabbed this - my own comment - to remind myself for the next time!
@gonnahavemesomefun couldn't agree more. My car is going on 19 years old and I love it to death because it looks great and makes me feel good. 19 years of feeling good is not to be underestimated. When I get out on the road after pulling out of my driveway I feel a stress relief thanks to my car every time. Put a price on that!!
Also remember you are the one paying for it. They are not. LOL
This is a fantastic service that you’re providing for free, and it shows y’all’s character. Thank you for helping everyone.
This worth millions of likes. People really need to donate you two for saving us tons of money. Thank you!
People who're wise and frugal with their money, are not going to get themselves into a heavy debt when it's not necessary. That's a part of being a smart shopper. A person has to use common sense! Why get yourself into a $45,000.00 debt for brand new car, when there is nothing wrong with the vehicle that you already own and paid for.
I think another thing you should not tell the dealership early on is who you are financing your current potential trade-in with. My experience is that they can look it up and see what you owe when putting together a number for the trade. Several cars ago I stalled on this info and got several thousand more than what the car was currently worth, essentially a private seller number rather than a dealer trade. They gave me the number on the trade and as soon as the I told them who I had the loan with they were able to look up the 10-day payoff. The look on their face was priceless when they saw what I owed and what ther were giving me.
Great video !!! Back when I lived in Germany I loved buying cars and most of the car sales people were great to deal with. For a while I also started working this job there and I did very well. Then I moved to the US (Las Vegas) and suddenly I hate buying a car or motorcycles from a dealership. Most sales people here try to put so much pressure on you to close the deal directly, it's like their boss will beat them up when they don't sell me a car within the next 20 minutes. lol. Once three sales people were putting so much pressure on me to buy a motorcycle, that I just left the dealership, even when I was ready to buy it for the price they told me. But I am not signing a contract, because you point a "gun" on my head so I would not have made a deal with them even when they would give me that bike for free.
Also all the time they need to ask their manager for something. Hey, when you are not even in the positon to talk about those things, why am I even wasting my time with you and do not make the deal with your manager directly? I sold hundreds of cars and only had to ask my manager about my deals 3-4 times, so something is very strange here with how the sales system here works. Guess the owners don't trust their own employees, or is this ask-my-manager thing just an other game they play for whatever reason?
Customers are not stupid, make them a good offer, be honest to them and don't play stupid games and give them a bit time to decide and they will buy the car. That is the reason why they walked into the dealership in the first palce. But in the US I can 100% understand why people prefer to buy for example a Tesla which they can order just online, instead of dealing with shady salespeople.
Must say that for example RV salespeople or other businesses, do a much better job. But car and motorcyles dealerships in Vegas is something I try to avoid at all cost.
I love when you guys do these videos. Every time I watch one I get more confident that the next time I go in to buy a car, I'll be able to respond correctly.
I’ve been taking my sweet time looking for my next vehicle and I’ve discovered that I’m the auto sales guys worst nightmare- the customer who doesn’t NEED a car right now. 😂
I’ve been calling ALL my local credit unions every month for six months waiting for the rates to drop.
Yeah you definitely have the power when you don't NEED to buy a new car for sure.
@@1-Wheel-DriveCash is king. Don't fall for the 0% interest though. They will front load the higher buy price on you.
Where I live you can't "shop around" and wait. If you stall for 10 minutes, someone else has bought the vehicle and there is no other inventory to choose from. I suppose if you don;t need a car....then what are you doing?
@@wesleybaker9724
Depends on make and model. Toyotas are like that right now. But Dodges? Not so much.
As the economy turns, especially with inflation and higher interest rates, the popular makes where there is a shortage and the dealers going nuts, will take it in the shorts. They'll be no buyers.
@@wesleybaker9724 What? Dealer lots are full of used and new cars...
I made some mistakes the first time buying a car when I was 22, helped by my father who had to cosign. When I was 29 and bought my next car I went in and said " I know what car, options, know how much I am paying, know how much my trade is worth, and if you do this right I'll be out of here by 8pm." I got within $200 on my trade (had mechanical issues), under my purchase price when I surprised them at the end by paying cash. Well...cash, but charging 10k and paying that off once I went to the bank the next week. Took about 45 extra minutes because they were slow coming down in price and they bought me food
I got ripped on my first dealer car too. It was used.
They pulled the trick where they raise the price of the car I was buying by $1000 but also gave me an extra $1000 for the trade-in. The guy said it was to make the bank more likely to approve the loan but afterward I was told that it was so he could get a larger commission.
Knowing this now, I would want a cut of that. You go ahead and raise the price $1000 but I need an extra $1300 for my trade.
I’ve bought cars using the Costco program, and it seemed fair and fast.
As a Dad of a young son I love seeing these videos not only for car buying but the connection between them. Nice job Dad!
Gracias a los dos!!! I bought a car two years ago with no credit history; loan rate was high undoubtedly. Now that my credit score is very respectable, I was able to refinance and ended up much better. I am about to purchase another car for my wife and thanks to you both, I can better negotiate the price of this vehicle.
On the question of “would you consider financing with us instead of your credit union?”, I told a dealer straight up recently that I’d only finance through my credit union so that I’d know who was servicing the loan. I already knew from past experience that dealers wouldn’t be able to beat the rate I get at my CU anyway.
I bought a Honda 2 yrs ago. Pre-approved from my Credit Union, and told 3%. Dealer insisted they use the same CU, but today's rate is 4%. Straight up lied right to me. Still bought it. Loan at 3%.
@@markwegner6100 I ended up backing out of my deal, but the dealer was telling me a rate 0.5% higher than the credit union was showing on their website that day if they’d have gotten the loan for me through them. So damned irritating.
It's POSSIBLE but unlikely they will beat a good outside interest rate. The dealer wants to get their cut of the financing also so beating low rates doesn't help their bottom line.
It’s been several years but the last car I bought the dealership coincidentally worked with my CU. The financing was the same thru the dealer or directly with my CU. I was surprised.
Because there’s another entity keeping them honest. The worst is when they work with shady lenders to bump your rate anyway and you THINK you’re getting a good rate @@wayne9518
My shopping strategy has always been to look for dealers that advertise beating anyones price...then I hunt for discounted online sale pricing and always walk in with that printout in hand. My last car was thousands under the window price where I bought...
Ohh damn that's a good idea, I should do that as well.
Which website do u usually check
My OTD has always been thousands lower than sticker. Not sure I got the best deal though.
I had a dealer once that I heard from someone else they advertised as half-off MSRP for a specific car. Went in, they said that's not true, but they had "big discounts". I walked. Went home, opened my mailbox to an ad from that dealer for........half-off MSRP.
Me and my girlfriend are looking to buy our very first vehicle from a dealership and these videos are extremely helpful, we are going to watch a lot of these. Thanks so much for your wisdom!
A good back up for a payment to take in as a negotiation for the customer is, if you’re part of a credit union they will be able to give you a great rate for a no down payment. Walk on with that and they will be competitive to the credit union pre approval. I used it and got a .5% interest rate from a dealer. This was in 2020
So great job on pointing that out.
For any big ticket items that I purchase, I always make it clear to the salesperson upfront that I refuse to discuss payment/financing until we agree upon the price; and if they keep trying to steer the conversation to it, they get two warnings that if they keep it up, I'll walk out the door and deal with another establishment... or worse... go to the competition.
Awesome tips, particularly pre-payment penalties. I am a cash buyer but if I can get a dealer loan and pay it off a few days later, in exchange for a lower out the door price, that's a win for both parties.
How is that a win for the dealer? The dealer sold the vehicle low and then, because you paid off the loan, did not receive a kick back from the bank on the loan.
Actually a win for the customer.
@@scottr2706 - of course you're right, but a weak argument can be made that the dealer wins because the customer agrees to the terms and conditions of the dealer's own agreement. If the dealer doesn't like their own agreement there's little the customer can do to change that.
@@donaldlee6760It's like a restaurant selling an item cheap in hopes that the customer buys it and other stuff. If you just buy the cheap thing then the restaurant isn't winning even though you played by their rules.
@@zachansen8293
How much money do you make on a car sitting on the lot? Less than zero because of property taxes and insurance and security, etcetera.
So if you sell the car with a loan and the buyer pays off the loan a few weeks or months later, how much money have you made? Well, you sold the car for a profit, you are no longer paying property tax on it, or insurance, or security, etcetera. So since most loans are made through third parties, you have lost no interest revenue, you made a profit, and your cost went down. How is that not a win for the dealer?
It's not a win win. It's a win for the consumer. The dealer is getting charged back the rebate that you saved upfront.
Here's one I experienced. I bought a brand new car. Just once in my entire 63 years. I financed through the dealer. I send extra every month. I Pay Attention! My Principal was NOT reflecting the Extra I sent. I called them. They said, "Oh! We thought we wanted to Prepay the Interest, on the loan. I'm glad I caught it. The next month I called for my "PayOff " amount. No more dealers for me since 2006. Except for basic service.
Great video! Knowing to deal with the OTD price over monthly payments + coming prepared with an approved loan helped me avoid so much of the usual dealer BS.
Great video. My GF and I are car shopping and these tips were perfect. The trade-in and focusing on OTD pricing will hopefully help us not get tricked.
Nice. I'm sure she will enjoy her new car.
I always say, I'm selling my vehicle myself or I might just keep it even as a third vehicle. Usually at some point they might ask again and I say well if you want to appraise it fine but I already know what I can sell it for myself. So far a dealer doesn't even come close and I LAUGH at their price...but it allows me to giggle at them. Hell I told the dealer I had a tint guy but sure quote me for window tint, and hood protection film etc...they came back with some nutty price of $3,000 I laughed, and said my guy charges for everything $800 and he also includes the headlights, trim pieces etc They guy just tossed the sheet in the trash. Know before you go.
Don't make major purchases with anyone you're not married to.
@@rrobertson4191 facts 💯
Go in with an auto loan calculator… know about where you should be interest rate wise by checking with your bank first and know the approximate trade value by checking appraisal sites before going in. Then you can not be tricked. If you want an 8 hour sales process where you hold up the salesman and they end up hating you and you hate the experience, then follow these guys advice. If you want a good experience, come prepared with general knowledge and just be a decent human and they won’t trick you, can’t trick you, the process will be faster and you’ll actually be home in time to enjoy the rest of your day.
This video is invaluable. I wish I would have had this when I financed my last auto. This is fantastic.
The last few vehicle purchases I made, I used the separate deal paradigm, and I told them walking in the door how it was going to go down.
First, I found the vehicle I wanted at the price I was willing to pay.
Second, I traded in my vehicle at the price I was willing to accept.
Finally, I went into financing to discuss how we were going to pay for this.
Each of the 3 deals was dependent upon the other two. I literally walked out the door twice on one occasion because I knew they were trying to stroke me and wear me down.
Using the techniques you describe here, I got what I wanted at the price I found acceptable. Thank you for breaking it down like this here.
I just bought a used 2022 car. I was absolutely floored by the protection plans, refurbishment costs, etc. that so many dealerships try and scam you with. I was impressed with the out the door price from Auto Nation and will look to go there the next time I need a car. The ONLY place I found with straight-forward pricing.
I am learning a lot from your videos and thanks. On the add-on products, you should also ask if they are delivered by a 3rd party. Years ago I purchased an add-on vehicle maintenance program that was offered by the Dealership, but when the 3rd party went Bankrupt, the dealership no longer honored the maintenance program. Just a suggestion.
Great point!! The ONLY reason I agreed to the extended coverage on my Outback was that the protections were covered directly by Subaru and not some third party vendor. In fact, they made a point of telling me that.
My wife and I made the mistake in 2020 when we bought our new Honda CRV from a dealer in Florida. The sale's manager came up with a "menu" including three different "option menus"). All, add-ons. Of course, they made us pay outright for the etching on the windows which was already done on all of the vehicles on the lot.
We got the usual extra coverage for small dings, and all... Turns out, those things are a scam. When we needed the, there was always a reason why they could not honor it. One example. I checked on the key replacement protection. The company had run out of business. The protection was no longer covered or rather was covered differently by the new company that took over that business. While the car was under warranty, I forced the dealer to reimburse us for a part of those and cancel, which they did. My advice: do not buy any of those add-ons.
Great video. As someone who has been buying cars as a consumer for over twenty years I have done everything mentioned in the video wrong (sometimes more than once).
Great advice! In 2005 I ordered a MINI Cooper S from Oxford, England with a five-year payment plan to BMW. In 2013 I traded that R53 in for a new, R56, MCS off the showroom floor, also with a five-year plan and my trade in value of $3K. I've had no car payments since 2018 when I finally paid it off. MINI continues to make me smile in retirement here in 2024. :)
Wow … that was absolutely the best free advice ever. I’m preparing to buy a new vehicle and I’m gonna use this information to my advantage.
Really like your work, guys!
I can't begin to count the number of times I gave folks the same advice ( I was in sales, sales management, f & i, and corporate training for about 20 years...).
OTD with a full disclosure of ridiculous fees and charges on a line by line explanation. Period.
Also: know the actual charges for titling, registration, and so forth required by law where you live. Anything much beyond that is just garbage which you are paying for. Less than $50? Probably ok.
Beyond that? You are a chump. If the dealer insists? Leave.
Tell them not to bother calling you to " discount " these fees.
They have already identified themselves as dishonest people.
Why would you trust them now?
Hey zach!!! 100% always do the math on the menu items - i had a dealer that had the lowest price online but told me i had to choose one of the 3 pkgs of coverage , however the lowest 1st pkg was $68 over my base payment which is just over 4800 added to my loan amount to the most expensive at $116 over my base payment which is just over 8300 added to my loan amount just for some paper products i told them no on all of it and within a few minutes i was informed they could not sell to me cause it had a unrepaired recall which was a lie cause there were no recalls for that model, it wasnt until that moment that i realized i had just been a victim of false advertising - they knew they were not going to sell me the car unless i bought over 4800 of worthless paper smh
Isn't that just aggravating. I recently had a dealership tell me they wouldn't sell me the car unless I financed it through them. (I was a cash buyer) I hate dealerships. It's no longer about selling cars for them. It's about add-on fees and kickbacks from financial institutions. I'm done with dealerships. I'm just going to buy lightly used from private parties.
When I bought my 2017 Toyota Sienna, I financed through Toyota Financial Services as I was able to get 0% interest financing for 5 years and Costco Member Pricing. They tried to sell me all that extra menu items in the finance department and I straight up told them, my answer is a "NO" on all the things you want to sell me. They had the audacity to try to tack on the cost of some door edge trim strips that was already part of the sticker price after the fact to say they left that out and need to revise the invoice sheet (I got a discount off their sticker price). I told them I'm not going to pay extra for something that I'm already agreed to pay for, else remove it from the vehicle. Needless to say, it the salesman decided it was a non-issue so it stayed on and no invoice revisions.
Nowadays I pull out my GoPro and do a video on my experience...LOL Oh didn't I tell you I do UA-cam videos...LOL Which I really do so it helps. I play the game when needed on things.
Excellent! I’ve watched several of your videos and this is the most well done. I used to represent buyers and sellers in another industry. I would help get comfortable with themselves as a type of buyer. How much do they want to avoid allowing the anxiety of the process to spoil the “experience” of the purchase/sale. Put a price on that premium and own it. Priorities are 1) being treated fairly; and 2) not feeling stupid. Your list, etc. is great for one type of buyer but help the others adapt it. A very useful thing when working with couples is “One of you is buying shelter, transportation, a better oven, etc. The other is buying an experience.” If that is the case the best use of your time and money is maximizing the experience for the second person and it will be the best for the relationship. The second person won’t attach any disappointment in the experience to the first person. Your advice gives people control but doesn’t directly lower their anxiety about the whole process. Hence these suggestions. Keep up the good wortk……. And I love watching the two of you together.
You two have just mae my day. In the past, I have allwed myself to be horribly used by the dealership. This in turn, led to being horribly used by the bank. The next car, the dealership, AND the bank really stuck it to me. Years and years later, my credit repaired, being singnificantly wiser, being pretty sure what NOT to do, I am going in for another car yet again, but, this time, thanks in part to you, my eyes are open. I know to keep at that out the door price, and, frankly, I am my credit union have already discussed the numbers. I also know how to handle, or even not handle, my trade in. Thanks for the help, it is appreciated
Excellent demonstration and explanation of the correct way to purchase a vehicle.
When I bought my wife's car a few years I declined the extended warranty and the finance guy said well what if something major goes how will you fix it you aren't going to trade it in and let it be the new buyers problem are you,I said no disrespect to you sir but that's none of you business his eyes go big as saucers
It's hysterical to me how they threaten buyers about the possibility of "major repairs" to sell their warranties. I look at the options menu as a courtesy when they start their spiel, but after a minute I tell the finance person, "Look, I'm not going to buy any of this stuff and you have other buyers waiting to finance, so why don't we just go ahead and finish the paperwork?" Sometimes I get dirty looks, but I'm trying to save us both a lot of wasted time.
Solid tips were given in this video.
I audit 8-10 dealers a year and it gives me a lot more experience with haggling than the average customer might have.
One thing I noticed in my area, is that the KIA dealerships here love to try and tack on these bullshit safety packages. Depending on which dealer you go to, they will refuse to remove that 'option'. It's baked in profit, nothing more.
Wow! Found your videos today. They make SO MUCH sense! All the tricks!
Nice, good tips. I would add that any dealer mark ups above MSRP are a strong sign to walk away. For my part I always look for an out the door price and expect 10% minimum to 20% discount off MSRP. Don’t expect this on order or specialty vehicles, the more rare the higher the price but for those mass vehicles sitting on the lot sinking in $$$ for insurance, definitely target a discount off MSRP!
Your not getting discounts like that today
@@Mrtellitlikeitis I just bought a Mercedes and got them to reduce MSRP price by 16%. Although it was harder negotiating and willing to walk out.
@juanmacias4854 did you finance, lease, or buy it outright?
Bought it, by trading in my 2021 F150 Platinum and cash. Too big of a bill to finance.@@laxmansaravanakumar8480
This video makes me appreciate the good dealers I have dealt with. There was only one about 12 years back I wouldn't go back to.
Thanks guys. If the buyer concentrates on what you've just taught us, they will either get a great deal or get thrown out by a greedy dealership/salesman.
I love the way Zach thinks, He is the BEST as he THINKS for the CUSTOMER, I LOVE the WAY he does this. Keep up the GOOD work. DO you ASK for CASH PRICE or OTD first? Thank you
Ask for OTD first (and stick with it until you get it) and don't even let them know you're considering cash. Hold your cards very close.
@NVRAMboi ...they don't want you to pay cash...they make money from you financing the car...No discount for paying cash...don't let them know your paying full in cash until you negotiate your best deal.
If they give me even the slightest run around about OTD I walk. I don't have time for games.
I wish I knew all of this when I was younger. All of this is fabulous advice. I like to work deal on phone, ask for an invoice and bring a check from my credit union for that amount. When the dealer tries the whole "we need to run your credit in case the check doesn't clear", I reply that I can wait until check clears and I can get vehicle then.
I run all the promos and the discounts and interest rate I want through a lease or purchase calculator before I go in. Then I have a payment number I can talk about, but it’s for the specific model and features I want. If they can’t get to that number in whatever time clock I decide to put them on, then no deal. But you’re giving them an answer right away to avoid more bs back and forth. The quicker you can move through the questions, the faster you can say yes or no to their offer and either buy or move on to another dealer.
One of your best videos to date, packed with fantastic info
In 1989, I pulled onto a dealership parking lot. A salesman greeted me as I approached the entrance to the showroom. My wife stayed inside our car. I asked him to point out the most expensive car on the lot. He smiled and pointed to a vehicle and started describing the features it had. I interrupted him snd told him not to let my wife get anywhere near it.
Lmfao
😂😂😂😂😂😂
😂😂😂😂😂
😂😂😂😂
I'm dead😂
That's Golden 😂
🤣🤣🤣🤣
Being mechanically inclined, I've never accepted these extra options, although, I've never done the things that you have instructed me to do, like negotiating hard on a used trade in, or OTD pricing, or extra fees, you have taught me a lot.! Thank you very much.
I’m haven’t purchased a vehicle 🚗 since 2002 because I drove the same suv for 18 years…2000 GMCJimmy. However, I’m in the market for purchasing a vehicle and after experiencing what I did back when I bought my Jimmy I promised myself never to buy another vehicle financed through a dealership because I was clueless about all the things I’m now learning here on this Channel. A $14k+ ended up being a 21k+ purchase with all the fees and stuff I didn’t understand. Nevertheless, did all I could to pay that thing off before the time and saved me a little change so that’s why I decided to maintain the vehicle instead of buying another one when parts started breaking or malfunctioning and it’s still on the road. I relocated here to Houston a couple years now and left it to a good friend to use.
I’m so grateful for all I’m learning here at this stage in my life. I’m almost 60 and don’t have money to waste.
New Subscriber here thanking you for your much needed education ❤
Thanks for the tips. They WILL get used next time I buy. Btw, last Toyota I bought, the salesman went through his pitch on how reliable the car was. When I went into the finance office, the manager went through her pitch on how unreliable modern cars are, in an attempt to get me to buy an extended warranty. I mentioned their "interdepartmental paradox" they had going on. She grinned when I brought it up. I didn't buy the warranty, but I'm sure they screwed me in other nebulous ways.
Please define getting screwed? The dealer making any money at all? Or is there a certain profit amount that you think is fair?
@@jakecarstens3586most dealerships that sell new really don't make money it's the extras they try to tack on and the auction cars they buy low and of course if you bring it in to have it serviced.
Local Toyota dealership requires nitrogen in the tires
@@donaldobrien9171 Charging for N2, which is about 80% of air, is a big scam. I'd tell them to shove it up their ass.
@@jakecarstens3586 why you so defensive and accusative? He didn’t say he didn’t want dealer getting any profit.
I literally had a sales person say to me (at a high volume dealership) after the deal negotiation was done and i refused all the add-on's and extended warranty Blah, Blah, Blah, that basically it's okay they didn't make much profit off my deal because "we will make our money on the next customer"
That's definitely why i choose to buy from a high volume dealer, the small low volume dealership (there are exceptions) don't have as many fish in the pond, which can make it more difficult to strike a good deal!
Great point. The Last vehicle I bought came from such a dealership, and I had to drive around 90 miles one way, but after working out a tentative deal on the phone, I saved around $10K compared with the lowest price my local dealer would offer for the exact same vehicle with the same MSRP. Well worth it. They just want to churn cars out at a profit and hope those happy customers come back. Great experience.
I just found your video and THANK YOU for your information on buying a car!!! This is especially helpful for females ALONE!!!
Wow ! What a rare video. I mean it.
You don't see / hear many videos that actually help you, and show how normal human behavior needs to be altered, and how to do that for ones benefit.
These lessons are useful for life in general.
Primo.
I actually bought a car at a good price and financed it through the dealer. When all the paperwork was done, I looked over it carefully and there was about 2K worth of discrepancies. I think the finance guy tried to slip one past me. Sales apologized profusely, but that finance guy didn't seem happy.
This was great information and advice 👏🏾 keep conversations like this coming it really helps us as consumers.
Incredible video, incredible channel. Thank you for the value you are bringing to all of us looking to purchase a car. I'm studying this channel!!!
That's exactly how l bought my last car! I went through my own bank so I knew how much I could spend, and I DID NOT buy any extras. ❤ these two know what they are talking about!!!
I’ve bought a number of vehicles in my time and it has always left a bad taste in my mouth. (Usually a such bad experience that i had to go home take a shower after the “encounter.”)
Good advice gentlemen.
Number one. Do not give out information except that you have an interest in the vehicle. Number two: insist repeatedly (and politely) on the OTD.
Number three: offer 5% less on the the OTD.
Number four: be ready and willing to walk away. There are plenty of other dealers and thousands of vehicles out there (including Canada (where I live…)).
I totally agree. My Dad would always say never fall in love with a car
@@galenfowler8453Queen would disagree with your Dad. 😊
Concerning extended warranties, the only one worth getting is the factory one extended. As in actual bumper to bumper coverage via Ford or GM. (as an example) Some manufacturers offer this, some do not, so check first. The real issue is 3rd party ones that are full of fine print and worthless coverage - just money in the dealer's pockets.
In my case, I paid $700 to extend my 3/36 warranty to 5/100K as I was commuting and putting 20K a year on it. Worth it considering I had a $1200 repair covered at 40K miles. The same goes with factory parts. I've had dealers and repair shops routinely try to put on generic parts when there is a factory option available for a bit more money that carries a decent warranty on it. I own a Ford, so this is common, especially on things like batteries, struts, and so on. So not all warranties are bad - check the details.
The odds are good you never use it in the time frame bad bet ,
@@sku32956 Again, it all comes down to economics - how much it is ( again, ONLY factory warranty, not via a 3rd party ), and how "reliable" the car is. If you can buy a new BMW and get an extended factory warranty to 7 or 8 years for under $1000, it's money well spent as something WILL break at 70-80K and likely require tne engine to be taken out. A Toyota? Yes, money wasted. Ford and GM? That's where it gets tricky, though most are reliable for at least 5-8 years now.
I've had dealerships refuse to allow me to even test drive vehicles when they knew I had my own financing. Now I never divulge that information until I'm in the finance office.
My local CJDR dealership is giving a lifetime powertrain warranty on all new CJDR vehicles.
Also, you guys are spot on with the dealer verbiage. I’ve heard the exact speech from salesmen and FM over and over.
Appreciate you guys, this appears to be honest advice. Definitely confirms why I despise dealerships and salesman. I’d like to see the entire industry shift to a buy direct model with support distributed. for sustainment only.
Such great information, i can see where they get me into how much you want to pay per month. I find it so hard when i ask the OTD cost, they keep getting me back to how much you want to pay per month, how much deposit, etc.! I still haven't found a car at a price i want for used car (i find the used are still quite expensive).
Just love listening to you guys, eventually i'll be able to get them to give me the OTD price! Thanks again for your your videos. Really appreaciate it!. Lynne in Ottawa, Canada
I bought my daughter's Fusion years ago. The salesman talked about where I was going to finance. I explained I already have a rate with my credit union. He actually asked me what it was. I told him you go get a rate and I'll let you know which one I choose. He came back with a rate 2% lower than my credit union. Never let them know your rate!
Just bought a 2024 Camry LE 4 banger, 8 speed auto, w/o hybrid five days ago. Got hit for $395 paint protection but nothing else. Financed through a nearby credit union. Thanks guys! Love the car!!!!!
You could've gotten the same model a few years older for probably 15k less and your payment will be in the mid 2s for the exact same car just different year.
There was a dealer the wife and i went to, i was pre approved, and we looked at a car we both liked i asked what would the out the door price be and she said, i cant do it, we have to do a credit pull on you and get you financing, to see where your monthly payments would be, i said no, i am approved already, i am going us my bank, i just want the out the door price, she said well then you have to pull credit, and the wife and i walked away, walked across the street, told the dealer same thing, they didnt do some shady bs, said x price, and i said i want x price, we settled and i paid them and that was that
I went to a used dealer a long time ago and they wanted to pull my credit before they would tell me the listed price. I walked. Anyone that tries pulling this crap deserves to lose business.
I researched and learned these dealer tactics, thanks for the lesson. One thing I learned from you is the pre-penalty payoff.
Another thing to watch out for is credit checks. Some dealerships want you to sign an application that allows them to put your application out to several lenders, not just in-house. Your one signature ends up authorizing 10-15 hard checks on your credit. I found this out the hard way when I bought my first house. My credit score dropped approximately 15 points from all of the hard pulls. Since that happened, I only use my credit union for financing (so I don’t know if things have changed).
If you go through a dealership for financing, I’d say “I only authorize X number of financial institutions to pull my credit.” Yes, some local bank 400 miles away might finally get you the numbers you’re looking for, but the lowered credit score can end up costing you more down the line.
Good tips. We don't buy new cars, nor do we buy cars we can't pay outright. The last time we bought a car we walked out on the dealer because he tried to sell us a vehicle with more options than we wanted to pay for. Well, the dealer one town over was happy to provide exactly the vehicle we asked for.
We usually buy vehicles on a loan from the dealer because that gives you a better price than a cash deal these days (because the dealers think they get the kickback from the banks). We then walk out and pay off the loan.
Being a former employee of a few new car dealerships I agree with everything you guys said. Great advice
I always talk OTD price. When they ask me about monthly payment, my reply is “let me worry about, let’s focus on the price”.
I was straight up. I told them my trad and how much cash I was willing to put down. I knew the car I wanted invoice so I gave them a fair offer and said they either agree or we don't have a deal. THAT simple. They made it work.
I’m planning to buy a brand new car (first time) in the spring and I’m 20 years old. I’m going in armed with knowledge!! Thank you!
Also, do you really want to buy any protection plan for a depreciating asset? Buying extra coatings, sealants, tire warranties, or maintenance plans will not increase the value of that sinking ship as time goes on. On top of that those plans are being added into the financed amount so you are paying interest on those products every month, year, and so on. Just get your best price and best interest rate and pay the regular maintenance out of pocket. Retailers will always try to sell you a protection plan on your new Apple device too. If something happens to it in the first year and you try to get some help from that protection plan the retailer will first tell you to contact Apple directly because it will most likely fall under the manufacturers original warranty first. They will not offer any assistance until after you have first tried to get the device repaired under the original manufacturers warranty. So that 2 year protection plan is really only good during year 2 of ownership, the first year is all gravy.
As a long time rule, I refuse all of the (F&I) add-ons. I'm here for this vehicle at this price.
I do not trust anyone's 'extended warranty' from my own experiences.
This is good insight. My wife and I turn down all extended warranty offers no matter what the product is. Even if something were to go wrong, it is far quicker and easier to pay a repair shop or technician directly.
A car is not a depreciating asset. It is a depreciating liability.