Thanks! You inspired me to do this DIY upgrade and I managed to replace with 20700 cells giving me a good 17Ah/600Wh capacity with more power. Although I had to buy a spot welder and spent some time on searching & knowledge: it was worth the effort (and money). My experience in short: - Cut the main wires at the battery tab and save yourself the trouble of desoldering at the bms. - Forget about the effort of saving the old nickel strips (I spent a good 30 minutes on one side and decided to give up). Buy new strips for a dollar/euro or so. - For my speed pedelec I wanted more power and capacity so I used 20700 cells. These fit if you just hot glue the cells together which will give the same dimension as the original pack. You need to remove the tabs in the side panels to compensate for the increased height. - You can solder the balance leads to the bottom side of the balance cable, this save the trouble of scraping off the top layer. - My Bosch classic 400 pack still works after having it depowered for 3 weeks. Result: before a good 35-38 km/h. After: 41-43 km/h :) Note: I just did not want to run the risk but there is a good change that 21700 cells (20Ah!) will also fit. I am thinking about moving the controller board to the connector end because I jut can't stand the idea of losing power in the long cables.
Yes, very nice upgrade. I used the same cells to upgrade my brothers ebike. 6 parallel 10 series. 756 Wh. original is was like 300 Wh. It even fits in the original battery housing. The new battery has way less voltage sag, so the acceleration and top speed are also higher.
Oh man, that was the best part about this one too. The new cells are 10A rated each (versus 6A before), so they have much lower internal resistance than the old ones. You really feel the difference after a couple kilometers. The old pack would become noticeably less torquey, this one just keeps on going till the end. Which was very helpful when I ended one of my bike rides in Germany with a pretty steep climb...
ATTENTION! If you have new style battery (400/500 Wh), you need to connect 36V+ power supply to terminals while replacing the battery pack, so it won't wipe itself. Then you have to hold button on battery for 10 seconds to "reset" it. I've done it today and it's working fine. (I'm not 100% sure if you really need the power supply, but I will not risk 900€ battery)
@@Gungarr Why would you power it after diconnecting? But one guy told me, that he just unplugged it, soldered new batteries and it still worked after reset. I wouldn't risk it though. There are too many "it's not working now" comments here.
This is what im thinking with over 500watts something s gotta error but some errors can be ignored as i changed a sproket on mine to a smaller one and it showed a error but the shop told me when next in theyll clear it and they did ,but it just shows how sensitive bosch parts are yet i know this was years ago but a friend wanted to add a standard battery for extra range and completed it by tricking the bms dont ask me how but he had a 500 watt pack bosch and on the top bar a 50p wTt standard battery he wanted to complete a long journey and his battery wouldn't. Let him so this is how he went about it and it lasted for years but i think theres can bus data cables in the newr batterys nowadays anyway fairplay to yous for been able to do this much respect
please have a question about the threads (blue - yellow - green ( near positive & negative 6:35 ) what is it for ? thanks man your video are very helpful.
Could you please confirm BMS part, starting at 9:26, there is now suicide part, so I can remove batteries and connect new right? And I dont need any diagnostic tools to reset or so?
Yes, you can safely completely unpower the electronics and reconnect it to a new battery pack. There is no 'suicide' function in the pack. There is also no need for any resets whatsoever.
No - the spot welder I use (see my other videos) requires replacing the transformer if you want to use it at home, and the 'more expensive' version is already more than 500 dollars. The Malectrics spot welder at least works and is relatively cheap, but I have no experience with it: malectrics.eu/
Het assortiment wisselt nogal veel, maar ik zou momenteel Samsung INR18650-35E van NKON.nl kiezen. Goede kwaliteit, het BMS van de Bosch kan er goed mee omgaan en min of meer dezelfde capaciteit als de originele cellen
@@PowerElectronicsBlog ik kwam deze tegen is dat oke denk je? www.geegood.com/productshow.asp?ArticleID=0&id=51&cid=003 nog een vraagje wat is de naam van je las apparaat die je gebruikt?
I have a Powerback 400 and my cells are great by my bms ist not letting electricity to flow what is the solution? Can you make a video about the bms please?
Hello, is there a schematic drawing online, which shows clearly how the cells are interconnected ? I had to remove a faulty BMS completely and now I need to charge every SINGLE cell in order to have a balanced pack and to be able to charge it with a cheap china charger, which charges up to 42V. Thanks !
hi, I have a bosch powerpack 400 which did not work and I replaced the cells not knowing that the BMS can not stay disconnected. Now when I have the cells replaced with good capacity cells the BMS does not gives any order to the motor. The Battery is charging and fully charged. Ho could I hack the BMS to make it work again? ANY HELP IS Apreciated. THANK You
Ik heb een Bosch Li-Ion 10INR18/65-4 36v 13.4Ah 500Wh en deze is defect: laadt niet meer op (geen enkel led licht nog op). de lader is oké. Kan ik een nieuwe 'BMS-module" voor dit model ergens aankopen aub? Daar ik de batterijen één voor één nagezien heb en die zijn ook oké, zou het aan dit printplaatje moeten liggen....(hoop ik....), maar nergens te vinden.
Helaas heb ik hier niks meer van liggen en ik zou ook niet zo snel weten waar je alleen de print kunt vinden. Wellicht marktplaats in de gaten houden voor defecte Bosch Classic/Classic+ accu's?
is it possible to remove the whole pack including bms and plug from the case? i mean to just exchange the case i.e. a black one for a white one without welding?
I "finished" this repair on a powerpack "1-270-020-504 20322 0034 1 2 Li-Ion 10INR18/65-4 36V 8.0Ah 288Wh Made in Poland" Now i am getting a blinking error-code (2nd and 4th LED blink when i press the battery indicator button) the error code means: A defect is detected in the battery pack. Contact us for assistance. Actions taken: 1) Checked individual parallel cells -> All are perfectly balanced at 3.53v. 2) Checked balanced connector pins on BMS -> All cell voltages reaches the BMS. 3) Tried the 10second reset -> No change. So it seems that I might be out of luck Probable causes; X) That my battery has a suicide function. (not very probable i believe - as it is 5 years old) Y) I heated the BMS too much or damaged it with ESD or in some other way during my repair. Z) When i first connected the battery to the charger, it seemed to charge for a moment but then went into error mode. After this i discovered that i had not connected the cell-monitoring-cable to the BMS. So maybe the BMS saw this as a damaged battery, that should not be charged/used for safety reasons... Be it from damage or DIY-tampering. H) That the battery has somehow damaged my charger, and a new one might fix the problem. (Unlikely i think) Right now i am leaning towards y or z Loose ideas of things i might try: a) Try connecting battery to ebike - to see what happens - maybe a more informative error message... b) Charge the pack using other Li-Ion charger and then reconnect the BMS. See if that makes a difference. c) Contact a ebike-shop and ask if they have any reset-tools for the battery (i would deem this unlikely) Conclusion: Make sure everything is connected the first time you power on the battery. I would love your input. Also: The author of the movie mentions a forum where these things are discussed. Which one might that be? Again: Thanks for a great movie
Super video! I have a question that doesn't seem to be answered anywhere... If you do an upgrade from a 300W powerpack classic+ to 400W or even to 500W (483W actually in my case)... will the bikes (intuvia) display show you the correct new ranges? I noticed the BMS from a 300Wh and the BMS from a 400Wh look exactly identical and if they are... (can someone check this please?)... how is the distincion made to determine wether you can bike another 20 or 40 kilometers (or miles if you like). In other words how does the bike know you inserted a 300W or a 400W battery? It would be nice to know how we could change the ranges accordingly when upgrading to higher capacity.
I replaced the 300Wh cells with Sanyo's GA cells (specs say 483Wh but it is more like 500Wh). I then reseted the BMS as that seemed necessary for correct charging status... Guess I first have to drive the pack empty to see if ranges are adapted accordingly in the intuvia display. Maybe I should reset the intuvia display as well?... don't know. Anyway if the ranges are not correct... the bike will still will run much longer than ever before. And now that I know how the ebike is constructed, I might consider building a 1000Wh pack myself one day. Just by adding 4 extra cells in each branch... this should be possible... I don't like the idea of adding the full pack in parallel (-0V and +36V) as that doesn't guarantee each group of cells to be balanced evenly. I would like to have connections between the groups of cells as well. Could be a fun (but quite pricy) project.
Wim Hulpia sometimes the display range isn’t accurate at all times. Sometimes it will show less.What you can do is navigate to the range display, press and hold the reset botton for a few seconds then it will refresh and show you an estimate of how much range is left.
well the computer works out the range from how much the battery drains over distance, for example i have a voodoo zobop-e with bosch performance cx and 500 watt hour battery from 2018. in my case i modded the sensor to go well above the 16 mph limit so when im riding at 20-30 mph it reads between 5 and 9 mph so when i fully charge it tells me in turbo mode that i have only 14 miles range, i still get ove 35 miles and i mostly use emtb mode
Hallo an alle brauche deine Hilfe !!! Ich habe eine BOSH-Batterie mit 400 Watt, die den Motor nicht mehr mit Strom versorgt. Ich habe es an der Batterie selbst demontiert, es sind 42 Volt im Ausgang 0. Die Platine selbst wurde an einigen Stellen oxidiert. Ich habe alles gereinigt. Wie führe ich eine BMS-Karte (Controller) aus? Danke
i want to use a bosch battery like this to power a 36v LED-chip that's mounted on a CPU cooler as a portable lamp. however the current only flows for about 3 seconds after i push on the button that's next to the charge indicator. what do i have to do to let the battery always be "ON"?
When not plugged into the bike or charger, the battery switches off automatically after 3 seconds. I know there are 5 connector 'pins'... Number 2 and 4 are the (switched) 36V. The other 3 pins (1, 3 and 5) are connected with yellow, grey and green small wires to the BMS. I noticed when the small lipo battery in my intuvia display was dead, it was impossible to start the bike (or the battery) by pressing the power button of the display. I had to start the bike by pressing the powerbutton on the battery itself. Once started it stayed on until I pressed that button again or... until I pressed the power button on the intuvia display (so power off DOES work when the lipo inside the intuvia is dead !). I measure 3.25V and 1.6V between those wires for a short time when powering the battery on. What you could do perhaps is install the pack (without cover) in a bike, switch the pack on and then measure the voltage between the three wires while the battery stays on. (The wires are connected next to each other on the BMS so not so difficult to measure). If you measure 0V between two of those, it is possible those need to be shorted in order for the battery to stay on. (But as I didn't construct the BMS, I really don't know this for sure, so don't attack me if you blow your BMS).
i actually already blew the brown thin conductive film. now i have only the cells left and need to know how i can charge it with only the red and black wires left . :-/
Sorry to hear that... The BMS does need the strip while charging. It has 13 connections of which 11 measure the voltage of the series of 10 groups (of 4 cells in parallel). 1 connection is the negative ground, and then 10 connections are made at the positive side of each group. A NTC resistor is soldered to that strip as well that uses those last 2 connections. This resistor measures the heat the pack produces to switch it off when it should become too hot. So if this resistor is missing, its resistance value becomes infinite, so the BMS will think it's too hot and switch off. I removed the brown plastic strip with a small chisel and as the connectors are spot welded some small pieces of copper ripped off as well. I put some solder on to repair them... So the pack does need those 13 connections to function properly. As it uses it to show the charging status (leds) and also to determine when charging is complete and how charging is performed (full charging when low en pulse charging when almost full). Hope you can repair your strip tazztone !
Wim Hulpia .. thanks for your in depth reply. but repairing sounds like an almost impossible task . i was stupid enough to take it apart. didn't think it would fry the brown strip so easily.
After a week of struggling to find a way of increasing my Bosch cells, I figured out a way of increasing my Bosch 300 pack without taking out the cells because I figured out if I did, that would be the end. Now I have a 28ah battery pack and it lasts me ages. 170 mile on a single charge.
hi, I have a bosch powerpack 400 which did not work and I replaced the cells not knowing that the BMS can not stay disconnected. Now when I have the cells replaced with good capacity cells the BMS does not gives any order to the motor. The Battery is charging and fully charged. Ho could I hack the BMS to make it work again? ANY HELP IS Apreciated. THANK You
Newer style bosch batterys like the power pack 400 have specific software that links with the controller on the ebike. Bosch basically makes them unrebuildable... i work at a ebike shop and my battery guy has made the mistake of trying to bypass the software have u had any luck?
Thanks! You inspired me to do this DIY upgrade and I managed to replace with 20700 cells giving me a good 17Ah/600Wh capacity with more power. Although I had to buy a spot welder and spent some time on searching & knowledge: it was worth the effort (and money).
My experience in short:
- Cut the main wires at the battery tab and save yourself the trouble of desoldering at the bms.
- Forget about the effort of saving the old nickel strips (I spent a good 30 minutes on one side and decided to give up). Buy new strips for a dollar/euro or so.
- For my speed pedelec I wanted more power and capacity so I used 20700 cells. These fit if you just hot glue the cells together which will give the same dimension as the original pack. You need to remove the tabs in the side panels to compensate for the increased height.
- You can solder the balance leads to the bottom side of the balance cable, this save the trouble of scraping off the top layer.
- My Bosch classic 400 pack still works after having it depowered for 3 weeks.
Result: before a good 35-38 km/h. After: 41-43 km/h :)
Note: I just did not want to run the risk but there is a good change that 21700 cells (20Ah!) will also fit.
I am thinking about moving the controller board to the connector end because I jut can't stand the idea of losing power in the long cables.
Yes, very nice upgrade. I used the same cells to upgrade my brothers ebike. 6 parallel 10 series. 756 Wh. original is was like 300 Wh. It even fits in the original battery housing. The new battery has way less voltage sag, so the acceleration and top speed are also higher.
Oh man, that was the best part about this one too. The new cells are 10A rated each (versus 6A before), so they have much lower internal resistance than the old ones. You really feel the difference after a couple kilometers. The old pack would become noticeably less torquey, this one just keeps on going till the end. Which was very helpful when I ended one of my bike rides in Germany with a pretty steep climb...
Due to potential impact is why the bms is where it is
How much would you charge to recell battery & shipping to & from UK(Bosch powerpack 300) did you work out how get round bms prob'
PLS HELP, I HAVE A YAMAHA PAS CITY, MY BATTERY IS DEAD, I REPLACED ALL THE LI-ION BATTERIES WITH NEW ONE, BUT STILL IT DOESNT WORK
ATTENTION! If you have new style battery (400/500 Wh), you need to connect 36V+ power supply to terminals while replacing the battery pack, so it won't wipe itself. Then you have to hold button on battery for 10 seconds to "reset" it.
I've done it today and it's working fine.
(I'm not 100% sure if you really need the power supply, but I will not risk 900€ battery)
Did you powered the BMS before or after disconnecting the battery cells?
@@Gungarr Why would you power it after diconnecting?
But one guy told me, that he just unplugged it, soldered new batteries and it still worked after reset. I wouldn't risk it though. There are too many "it's not working now" comments here.
After replacing the package, it shows error 200. Can you reset BMS and how?
This is what im thinking with over 500watts something s gotta error but some errors can be ignored as i changed a sproket on mine to a smaller one and it showed a error but the shop told me when next in theyll clear it and they did ,but it just shows how sensitive bosch parts are yet i know this was years ago but a friend wanted to add a standard battery for extra range and completed it by tricking the bms dont ask me how but he had a 500 watt pack bosch and on the top bar a 50p wTt standard battery he wanted to complete a long journey and his battery wouldn't. Let him so this is how he went about it and it lasted for years but i think theres can bus data cables in the newr batterys nowadays anyway fairplay to yous for been able to do this much respect
please have a question about the threads (blue - yellow - green ( near positive & negative 6:35 ) what is it for ? thanks man your video are very helpful.
Could you please confirm BMS part, starting at 9:26, there is now suicide part, so I can remove batteries and connect new right? And I dont need any diagnostic tools to reset or so?
Yes, you can safely completely unpower the electronics and reconnect it to a new battery pack. There is no 'suicide' function in the pack. There is also no need for any resets whatsoever.
No - the spot welder I use (see my other videos) requires replacing the transformer if you want to use it at home, and the 'more expensive' version is already more than 500 dollars. The Malectrics spot welder at least works and is relatively cheap, but I have no experience with it: malectrics.eu/
i used the malectrics spot welder and it works great.
@@PowerElectronicsBlog Hi, What is the sequence for re connecting ... i burn my bms. my sequence was B- B+ and cable leads . Thanks
thanks 4 great video miss the pinout but i will figure it out when i take it apart
weet je misschien welke batterijen ik het beste kan gebruiken voor een bosch 500wh accu?
Het assortiment wisselt nogal veel, maar ik zou momenteel Samsung INR18650-35E van NKON.nl kiezen. Goede kwaliteit, het BMS van de Bosch kan er goed mee omgaan en min of meer dezelfde capaciteit als de originele cellen
@@PowerElectronicsBlog kunnen ze ook in een 400wh accu denk je?
@@devingerdevinger6629 yup, geen probleem.
@@PowerElectronicsBlog ik kwam deze tegen is dat oke denk je? www.geegood.com/productshow.asp?ArticleID=0&id=51&cid=003 nog een vraagje wat is de naam van je las apparaat die je gebruikt?
I have a Powerback 400 and my cells are great by my bms ist not letting electricity to flow what is the solution? Can you make a video about the bms please?
i have the same problem , is there any solutions ? thank you
This seems great on the surface yet does your BMS still work after this? Is there no sneaker circuit to disable the BMS when you get in there?
Hello, is there a schematic drawing online, which shows clearly how the cells are interconnected ? I had to remove a faulty BMS completely and now I need to charge every SINGLE cell in order to have a balanced pack and to be able to charge it with a cheap china charger, which charges up to 42V. Thanks !
toch zijn al je producties interessant en leerzaam, dank! waar heb je de cellen vandaan, kun je iets aanraden?
hi, I have a bosch powerpack 400 which did not work and I replaced the cells not knowing that the BMS can not stay disconnected. Now when I have the cells replaced with good capacity cells the BMS does not gives any order to the motor. The Battery is charging and fully charged.
Ho could I hack the BMS to make it work again? ANY HELP IS Apreciated. THANK You
Take it too a Bosch dealer...tell them the battery is acting funny. Perhaps they could reset the BMS somehow. Its worth a try I guess.
please help i have 5 Bosch battery all the BMS board are defect how and where i can find new BMS board to replacement , thank you
Ik heb een Bosch Li-Ion 10INR18/65-4 36v 13.4Ah 500Wh en deze is defect: laadt niet meer op (geen enkel led licht nog op). de lader is oké. Kan ik een nieuwe 'BMS-module" voor dit model ergens aankopen aub? Daar ik de batterijen één voor één nagezien heb en die zijn ook oké, zou het aan dit printplaatje moeten liggen....(hoop ik....), maar nergens te vinden.
Helaas heb ik hier niks meer van liggen en ik zou ook niet zo snel weten waar je alleen de print kunt vinden. Wellicht marktplaats in de gaten houden voor defecte Bosch Classic/Classic+ accu's?
is it possible to remove the whole pack including bms and plug from the case? i mean to just exchange the case i.e. a black one for a white one without welding?
If your are still interested, absolutely yes, replacing the case does not require any soldering
I "finished" this repair on a powerpack
"1-270-020-504
20322 0034 1 2
Li-Ion 10INR18/65-4
36V 8.0Ah 288Wh
Made in Poland"
Now i am getting a blinking error-code (2nd and 4th LED blink when i press the battery indicator button) the error code means:
A defect is detected in the battery pack. Contact us for assistance.
Actions taken:
1) Checked individual parallel cells -> All are perfectly balanced at 3.53v.
2) Checked balanced connector pins on BMS -> All cell voltages reaches the BMS.
3) Tried the 10second reset -> No change.
So it seems that I might be out of luck
Probable causes;
X) That my battery has a suicide function. (not very probable i believe - as it is 5 years old)
Y) I heated the BMS too much or damaged it with ESD or in some other way during my repair.
Z) When i first connected the battery to the charger, it seemed to charge for a moment but then went into error mode. After this i discovered that i had not connected the cell-monitoring-cable to the BMS. So maybe the BMS saw this as a damaged battery, that should not be charged/used for safety reasons... Be it from damage or DIY-tampering.
H) That the battery has somehow damaged my charger, and a new one might fix the problem. (Unlikely i think)
Right now i am leaning towards y or z
Loose ideas of things i might try:
a) Try connecting battery to ebike - to see what happens - maybe a more informative error message...
b) Charge the pack using other Li-Ion charger and then reconnect the BMS. See if that makes a difference.
c) Contact a ebike-shop and ask if they have any reset-tools for the battery (i would deem this unlikely)
Conclusion:
Make sure everything is connected the first time you power on the battery.
I would love your input.
Also: The author of the movie mentions a forum where these things are discussed. Which one might that be?
Again: Thanks for a great movie
Super video! I have a question that doesn't seem to be answered anywhere... If you do an upgrade from a 300W powerpack classic+ to 400W or even to 500W (483W actually in my case)... will the bikes (intuvia) display show you the correct new ranges? I noticed the BMS from a 300Wh and the BMS from a 400Wh look exactly identical and if they are... (can someone check this please?)... how is the distincion made to determine wether you can bike another 20 or 40 kilometers (or miles if you like). In other words how does the bike know you inserted a 300W or a 400W battery? It would be nice to know how we could change the ranges accordingly when upgrading to higher capacity.
I replaced the 300Wh cells with Sanyo's GA cells (specs say 483Wh but it is more like 500Wh). I then reseted the BMS as that seemed necessary for correct charging status... Guess I first have to drive the pack empty to see if ranges are adapted accordingly in the intuvia display. Maybe I should reset the intuvia display as well?... don't know. Anyway if the ranges are not correct... the bike will still will run much longer than ever before.
And now that I know how the ebike is constructed, I might consider building a 1000Wh pack myself one day.
Just by adding 4 extra cells in each branch... this should be possible... I don't like the idea of adding the full pack in parallel (-0V and +36V) as that doesn't guarantee each group of cells to be balanced evenly. I would like to have connections between the groups of cells as well. Could be a fun (but quite pricy) project.
Wim Hulpia sometimes the display range isn’t accurate at all times. Sometimes it will show less.What you can do is navigate to the range display, press and hold the reset botton for a few seconds then it will refresh and show you an estimate of how much range is left.
well the computer works out the range from how much the battery drains over distance, for example i have a voodoo zobop-e with bosch performance cx and 500 watt hour battery from 2018. in my case i modded the sensor to go well above the 16 mph limit so when im riding at 20-30 mph it reads between 5 and 9 mph so when i fully charge it tells me in turbo mode that i have only 14 miles range, i still get ove 35 miles and i mostly use emtb mode
Hallo an alle brauche deine Hilfe !!! Ich habe eine BOSH-Batterie mit 400 Watt, die den Motor nicht mehr mit Strom versorgt. Ich habe es an der Batterie selbst demontiert, es sind 42 Volt im Ausgang 0. Die Platine selbst wurde an einigen Stellen oxidiert. Ich habe alles gereinigt. Wie führe ich eine BMS-Karte (Controller) aus? Danke
i want to use a bosch battery like this to power a 36v LED-chip that's mounted on a CPU cooler as a portable lamp. however the current only flows for about 3 seconds after i push on the button that's next to the charge indicator. what do i have to do to let the battery always be "ON"?
When not plugged into the bike or charger, the battery switches off automatically after 3 seconds. I know there are 5 connector 'pins'... Number 2 and 4 are the (switched) 36V. The other 3 pins (1, 3 and 5) are connected with yellow, grey and green small wires to the BMS. I noticed when the small lipo battery in my intuvia display was dead, it was impossible to start the bike (or the battery) by pressing the power button of the display. I had to start the bike by pressing the powerbutton on the battery itself. Once started it stayed on until I pressed that button again or... until I pressed the power button on the intuvia display (so power off DOES work when the lipo inside the intuvia is dead !). I measure 3.25V and 1.6V between those wires for a short time when powering the battery on. What you could do perhaps is install the pack (without cover) in a bike, switch the pack on and then measure the voltage between the three wires while the battery stays on. (The wires are connected next to each other on the BMS so not so difficult to measure). If you measure 0V between two of those, it is possible those need to be shorted in order for the battery to stay on. (But as I didn't construct the BMS, I really don't know this for sure, so don't attack me if you blow your BMS).
i actually already blew the brown thin conductive film. now i have only the cells left and need to know how i can charge it with only the red and black wires left . :-/
Sorry to hear that... The BMS does need the strip while charging. It has 13 connections of which 11 measure the voltage of the series of 10 groups (of 4 cells in parallel). 1 connection is the negative ground, and then 10 connections are made at the positive side of each group. A NTC resistor is soldered to that strip as well that uses those last 2 connections. This resistor measures the heat the pack produces to switch it off when it should become too hot. So if this resistor is missing, its resistance value becomes infinite, so the BMS will think it's too hot and switch off. I removed the brown plastic strip with a small chisel and as the connectors are spot welded some small pieces of copper ripped off as well. I put some solder on to repair them... So the pack does need those 13 connections to function properly. As it uses it to show the charging status (leds) and also to determine when charging is complete and how charging is performed (full charging when low en pulse charging when almost full). Hope you can repair your strip tazztone !
Wim Hulpia .. thanks for your in depth reply.
but repairing sounds like an almost impossible task . i was stupid enough to take it apart. didn't think it would fry the brown strip so easily.
After a week of struggling to find a way of increasing my Bosch cells, I figured out a way of increasing my Bosch 300 pack without taking out the cells because I figured out if I did, that would be the end. Now I have a 28ah battery pack and it lasts me ages. 170 mile on a single charge.
Its kinda sad you do not mention how accomplished this. Instead...you are gloating.
you figured it out man, you can now ascend with your head up high, dont bother explaining to anyone how you did it.
I have two Haibike with Bosch battery’s. My wife’s 400 power pack wont charge and my 500 works just fine on hers.
How much did you pay for the 40x INR19650-35E cells? Link to supplier?
very good and interesting video. I really want to rebuilt mine but I don't understand how do the soldering (special tools?)
Hello friends.
I now how to reactivate your bms after you cut the curent, or you repair your batery 😀
I am interested in this topic. How do you do it?
It should just work...attention to ESD rules - just said in the video that is not that kind of self suicide BMS.
Please email me in English testing circuit board instructions for Bosch 400 bicycle battery. thank you.
PAS TÉLÉ POCHE BLANC
Lol je bent Nederlands haha
This is fake, the battery does not work anymore after the cell exchange ...
Has Bosch built in a circuit to brick the BMS?
Not fake! It works for this model.
Powerpack 400s have bms brick function
hi, I have a bosch powerpack 400 which did not work and I replaced the cells not knowing that the BMS can not stay disconnected. Now when I have the cells replaced with good capacity cells the BMS does not gives any order to the motor. The Battery is charging and fully charged.
Ho could I hack the BMS to make it work again? ANY HELP IS Apreciated. THANK You
Newer style bosch batterys like the power pack 400 have specific software that links with the controller on the ebike. Bosch basically makes them unrebuildable... i work at a ebike shop and my battery guy has made the mistake of trying to bypass the software have u had any luck?