Erin McNeice: The Future of British Climbing
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- Опубліковано 25 лип 2024
- I recently had an indoor bouldering session with professional climber and GB Team athlete and Olympic Sport Climbing hopeful Erin McNeice to learn a thing or two about the next generation of strong competition climbers. Erin has an impressive resume of climbing competition results to her name - she holds the crown of British Lead Champion, is two time CWIF champion and is a regular face on bouldering and lead competition podiums nationally. She has her sights set on the 2024 Paris Olympics.
Erin was kind enough to humour me on a session on the V8 circuit at @depot_climbing but the session quickly evolved to see Erin climbing the hardest boulders in the gym. The orange circuit included boulders anywhere between V8 and V11.
Follow Erin: pB-CzjgRDE...
00:00 Introduction to Pro Climber Erin McNeice
00:56 V5-V7 Purple Warm Ups
02:33 Intermediate boulderer tries Pro Warm Up
03:21 V5-V7 on the overhang
06:58 Yellow V7+
11:42 Pro climber vs the v8+ set
13:43 Steep overhang project V8+
17:14 Hard comp style boulder V8+
19:30 Orange V8+ Boulder
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I enjoyed this, showcased Erin's personality which isn't the usual polished 'media' persona that a lot of UA-camrs portray. There are a lot of interesting characters at climbing gyms, not all of them extroverted
wow, erin climbs in such a calm smooth way, enjoyed watching her climb!
It was incredibly cool to watch her take down such hard boulders with seeming ease!
In some points there is so much power involved to make that happen...
She’s crazy strong. Gotta be peaking at like v14 if she’s cruising v8 like that
I love how very good climbers look like they only experience half the gravity, while I usually feel like I experience double. Good on you for pushing yourself so much Hannah - in my new local gym the difficulty level is up so much that I struggle on even the most basic ones and children keep flashing my projects, and it is not the most motivating.
Erin made it look very effortless - its so impressive to see her climb and also so impressive how much hard work goes into getting to that level! I relate to having sessions where you feel demotivated - sometimes climbing with waaaaay stronger climbers makes me feel weak in comparison but I try to remind myself that I climb for fun and I can learn so much from them during our sessions which is really valuable for my own climbing. 😊
These "feature" episodes are really cool. Erin looks so calm and calculated. Impressive climber for sure. You got some pretty burly moves in there as well.
Glad you like them! Hoping to introduce many different climbers over the next few months. It’s always so cool to see different peoples relationship to climbing.
Erin climbs so beautifully! Can’t wait to see her crush on the World Cup circuit!!
She does! One to be watched for sure 😊
Another great video! Erin seems so relaxed and chill about everything, very graceful.
You're an amazing climber Hannah, feels like you just need to trust your skills a bit more (maybe doing climbs without looking at their grade?)
Cheers from France, you rock!!
Erin was great to climb with, so talented and sure of her movement on the wall. I agree - putting less pressure on myself would be great! 😆😆
If you have access to a moonboard/kilterboard or such try setting your own problems. Its really helped me focus less on the grades.
The control Erin has on her swing is magical. It's like she's on the moon
Haha true! So strong
Because she lands in the apex of the movement, and because she catches dynamic moves and swings with engaged shoulders and bent arms. Compared to Hannah, this is especially clear on the first problem.
shes good ! i like the calmness. Thanks for bringing guests on your channel !
Another awesome video Hannah!!!
And wow! Already 4k more then when you hit 50k! You are going viral!
Thanks so much! 🥺 have been putting lots of work into the channel this year so it’s nice to see people enjoying it. 😊
Loved Erins flow, made it look so effortless!
You also look strong as always, Hannah😀
Thank you! Erin’s technique is flawless - super cool to watch!
Erin seems to be such a humble person. 🥰
I wish I could climb as good as she does.
She does! So much talent and strength. 🤩
omg Erin! Surprised to her in ur channel in 2023. Erin did gave me a feeling of Hannah when I first saw her on IFSC 😂 I love her
I feel like you lack confidence and it really holds you back Hannah, (very apparent on the first two problems for example), that being said you're an amazing climber and it's been awesome to watch you improve so much over the last few years. Just dial in your mental/confidence and you're going to blossom in the most beautiful of ways as you continue on your journey! Much love from the US!
You’re absolutely right! My mental game and confidence when bouldering is not where I’d like it to be. I’m hoping I can really work on my self-talk this year and start pushing my comfort zone a little more!
@@hannahmorrisbouldering you are a great climber tho! Appreciate your videos so much bcus i get to learn these climbs along you as u describe ur problems with us
Hmmm... well I don't exactly disagree with this comment but if I were coaching you, it's not really the message I would most want you taking on board. You are a strong and intelligent climber. There's nothing wrong with exploring different betas. Maybe being a creative beta breaker is your thing. Unless you're competing, is it really that important to top every boulder? Isn't having fun and developing your skill set more rewarding? You do you and don't overload on helpful advice, especially mine!
@@hannahmorrisbouldering Try some mental focusing things directly before your first move. I mostly take some deep breath with core tensioning and focus. Exhale before hard moves! That helps to improve the required body tension. 👊 ...and have fun!
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@@mildmanneredjanitor0 Yes to have fun is the most important thing in bouldering, even you are a pro climber.
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This has definitely got me psyched for going to Sheffield Depot tonight!!! Although I definitely won't be working the yellows and oranges 😂
Have a great session. The new reds, purples and pinks are great! 🥳
This was lovely 💛
Thank you! You’re lovely.
what an awesome display. such graceful climbing
Great climbs both of you. Love projecting videos.
I've got a side tangent thought that popped into my head seeing the two of you. I've heard the talk that climbing can lead to hunched shoulder posture, but confusingly in bodybuilding they explain hunched shoulders exactly opposite to the reason given with climbers. Both groups state that it's due to muscle imbalance. Climbing circles say climbing is primarily a pulling exercise, leading to strong pulling/ weak pushing muscles that cause shoulder hunch. Bodybuilding circles say the exact opposite, too much bench press leads to strong and tight chest muscles which can overpower the weaker back/ rear delt muscles (if not as well trained) and pull the shoulders forward. The bodybuilding explanation makes more sense to me, but we do definitely see it with climbers and I'm not sure why.
hooper's beta made a good video about it. It's mostly bad habits, tight pecs and neck muscles. A few simple stretches can go a long way.
So strong yet so chill!
Awesome video and collab!! Hopefully one day I can get on a video 😊!!
Didn't I say she is so awesome!!!
🗽I can feel the body tension in Erins moves. 👊
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Yes she has very good core control.
The move at 1:01 is absolutely brilliant. She brings her right foot out nearly plumb to the right hand and DRASTICALLY reduces swing coming in with the left hand. So intuitive, what a climber!!
Right! Such impressive awareness.
Hannah, I feel like you're more capable than what you send. Like, sometimes it seems like you just quit for no reason. If anything, it's apparent you hesitate on the wall a lot. You're a great climber!
Hesitancy on the wall and second guessing myself is one of my biggest weak spots in climbing, for sure! Working on being more decisive and intentional!
You deserve 1 million subs, underrated channel
Thank you! I really appreciate it 😊
Hannah- I have been climbing for over a year and a half now and in bouldering I climb V3 and was wondering if you have any advice for getting over the fear of falling off and hurting yourself as I was on a problem the other day and was about 2 moves from the top but the hold was very slippery and was scared to do it so I ended up staying in my position for about 2 minutes and had to come down because I was so scared! I love your videos- you are super strong!!
+1 for this.
I also really struggle with fear at the top of the wall (and also on volumes!). I’m actually in the process of setting up a video with a climber who has done a lot of work around climbing psychology and fear so I could pass on this comment and I can get a response that might help you more than my advice.
My advice would be: don’t be afraid to use different holds into the climb that help you to get a feel for a similar move.
Once you’ve built confidence with the similar hold or move, work back down the the hold you’re scared off.
Similarly, I chip away at scary moves by breaking down the movement into chunks and just trying the first part. So for dynos I’ll aim to just launch off first, then I’ll add a tap the hold element, then I’ll try and grab.
Just a couple of things but hopefully make some kind of sense!
I talked to some friends about this the other day and most of them said just try to "fall controlled" off from the hold you're scared of. In the end hopefully you're not afraid of the fall anymore.
I hope it's ubderstandable what I meant, English isn't my first language :)
Wow, that difference was very impressive to watch. How can she even recognize the correct body positioning so fast beforehand..? Great climber!
I once saw Jule Wurm in my home gym training with some other pro's that I didn't recognize. At most of their routes I didn't even get past the 2nd hold. 🤯
It's so impressive the literacy Erin and pro climbers have of climbing movement! I'm always in awe watching flawless technique and tactics.
Erin is a star.
Awesome, I like this old camera perspective trick when people climb on the floor, but make it look like they are climbing walls. You can tell latest when she pulls herself up on two fingers.
Just curious. How many days do you climb a week? Looking strong! I can't climb more than 2-3 days a week after that I just feel sore everywhere.
I usually climb every other day, although a bit less recently because of a finger tweak! I also try and have alternating sessions of trying harder and keeping it more gentle to balance out the aches!😊
Nathan, I’m assuming you filmed this. Great job.
Cool video :)
Thank you!
your climb amazing Hannah, the biggest thing for you is to work a little more on momentum / dynamic movement you tend to be a little to static dominant and most importantly just to get a lot stronger, Erin simply holds on to the climbs much more easily because her fingers are made of grade A iron, get on a moon board once a week and hang on your finger board for a year or two and the grades will come much more easily
That level of climbing looks like gecko-power 😂 very impressive !
It really does! Erin is wicked strong 🤩
The move at 17:26 is very very cool. Always love your videos!
Thank you! Appreciate it 💫
Her face at 8:12 😄
Haha the defeat
what's the song at 18:48??
wanna know that, too!
gotta have it by zuma
@@kdt85 thankss!!
Veery Strong, and every move seems very controlled
Such impressive climbing. 😊
erin seems both lovely and insanely strong
Agreed to both ☺️
How old is erin?
you must have friends in high places to get all these pro's/ semi pro's on your channel :o
Really beautiful climbing, but it looks like Erin‘s got a little bit rounded shoulders. Stay healthy guys.
Was this Erin McNiece? You might want to include that in your notes/description. It would be helpful
I’ve added her full name to the description, but her social media was linked out of the video so hopefully that was helpful for people too
Erin's feet are SILENT. If the climbing thing doesn't work out, she could always become a cat burglar.
Super impressive! 🥲
We would love to make. UA-cam video with you!
Wtf erin climbs at my local
Erin's poor skin on those Orange slopers. Brutal.
I know right! Whatta trooper.
She is very good and she seems like a lovely person…but the conversation in between climbs was painfully awkward. I’m guessing she’s very shy
I think it’s hard being in front of a camera when you’re not familiar with that! Erin was really lovely company and super inspiring to climb with ☺️
@@hannahmorrisbouldering I actually bumped into her at my local gym a few months ago. Had no idea who she was then, but I could not believe how easily she sailed through every V7+ problem there 🤦♂️💪