My incoming TDS is 455 softened water, 50 gpd Dow membrane, well preasure fluctuating between 40/50 psi and I was producing 18 gpd at 12 tds. I Installed a booster pump, upgraded to a 75 gpd Dow membrane, psi is now 60/70 psi, I'm producing 73 gpd at 1 TDS. What a difference.
Thanks answered my problem of the pump was putting out 100 psi and i need to reduce. i also installed dampeners before the gauges because the pump was banging the gauges.
Can you install the pump after the RO filter? I already have a pump in my filter but its an enclosed system so I cant get to it but the pressure on the outlet is only 20psi and I need 30 to 40.
Hi, A related question. I would like to install the R/O 30 linear feet away from my sink. What is your take on installing a booster pump after the storage tank (in addition to before the membrane) to increase the flow to the faucet?
Before you buy a booster pump, check to see if you can adjust your home's water regulator to a higher psi. I increased the water pressure in my house from 40 psi to 60 psi with the turn of a wrench. This only works up to the pressure in the mains.
@@bhbae1 Other than maybe a little higher water usage we've noticed no negative effects. I believe that 40 psi was just what the regulator was set at when it was installed.
Tank won’t fill, water only flows for a couple seconds until it becomes a trickle, and water flows quickly out black brine line. Tank maintains air pressure as far as I know (can’t get a perfect reading from the warped air-fill valve). Is the water pressure from the home too low, or ASO or check valve needs replaced?
If you don't have a pressure gauge on your system, the best thing you can do (aside form adding one) is to collect the product water and time how long it takes to make 1 gallon. From there, you should be able to figure out how many gallons per day your system is producing. If it's substantially lower than what the RO membrane is rated for, it's likely that your pressure is lower than ideal. All of that said, we highly recommend adding a pressure gauge as it will best help you troubleshoot your system and optimize performance. www.bulkreefsupply.com/glycerin-filled-pressure-gauge-1-100-psi.html
@@BRStv it doesn’t have a gauge built in, but I just lowered the tank’s empty pressure to ~8psi with my tire gauge and that allowed water to enter. Thanks for the info!
You are right, for the reverse osmosis process to take place, the pump must be installed after the three filters and before the membrane because it needs pressure to complete the process, otherwise the waste water will be a large amount, because the purpose of the pump is reverse osmosis, and nothing else, the pressure of the water that comes to the filters is enough To fill it, and pass to the other side, the pump to reduce waste.
The Aquatec 8800 booster pump kit works with RO systems from 50 GPD all the way up to dual membrane systems at 200 GPD or more. There is a small adjustment screw on the top of the booster pump if you need to turn down the pressure a bit (unscrew the screw slowly to turn pressure down).
I bought an aqua fx booster model # 9644, and it took my well water source @45psi and made it 90+ psi, and it's at the lowest setting, should I be worried?
We usually recommend staying at or below 90 PSI as the higher you go, the higher the chances are for a leak to develop in the RO system connection points.
will this set up work with the system you previously described where the waste water is sent back through the unit for one last treatment? (And in turn cut down on waste water loss)
My main line pressure is fine, but my RO is low. I recently (today) bought a new refrigerator and hooked my Watts RO to the refrigerator water line, as well as keeping it connected to the sink drinking line. The water pressure is pretty low, causing the water dispenser to drip on the fridge. (I was told if pressure is below 29psi, the fridge valve may not close properly. Is this the booster I need?? Or is this only if your city/main line has low pressure…?? Just my RO had low pressure…
If you're going to be hooking the RO system up to a refrigerator water dispenser or ice machine, you're going to want to install a pressure tank. RO systems produce water really slowly, so having a pressure tank will give you water on demand much much faster and avoid that fridge valve issue that you mentioned. When we talk about pressure, we're usually concerned with the pressure right before the RO membrane as pressure will affect it's performance. If the pressure in that location is 29 psi, you'll definitely want a booster pump (50+ psi is recommended)
@@BRStv Thanks for the info. I do have a 3 gallon water tank, will it help with pressure if I add a second 3 gallon tank? Again, thanks for the help, trying to avoid a 400.00 plumbing bill for someone to do a simple task that I (possibly) could have done.
Just to confirm here.... After shutting off the water supply line, the booster pump will run for an additional 5-15 minutes before shutting off? Pump is on the main supply line, just after my shutoff valve and the included pressure sensor is hooked up after my last stage of DI on its way to collection.
Shutting off the water supply would have no effect. The pump will shut off when pressure builds up and the pressure switch triggers. In typical situations, the pressure switch is installed on the product line and pressure builds up when a float valve is triggered.
It's normal for the product line to not have as much pressure as the source line. We wouldn't recommend a booster pump on the product line, only before the RO membrane.
Hey their bro I have a 50 GPD LP ro unit and have well water and my pressure is like 30 and high 40 psi and my auto shut off is not shutting off what can I do can you please help.
The auto shut off valve will trigger at about 40 psi, so it's likely that your low pressure is why it's not working properly. We would suggest installing a booster pump in your case.
My pump works when plugged in without the pressure switch. It does not function when wired up with pressure switch unless source water is turned off. Then it cuts the pump on when basically almost dry. Can you help? I also have a pressure gauge I’m going to hook up soon, because the existing one died.
I'm getting about 34psi on my gauge. I have the BRS 4 Stage Value Water Saver Plus Reverse Osmosis/Deionization System - 150 GPD I just use to make drinking water. Do I get the 1/4" or 3/8" 8800 Booster Pump Kit by Aquatec? What is the max psi I can achieve with this booster kit? I hope to hit between 65 - 75 psi.
The flow direction on the shutoff valve absolutely matters. I just installed this on a BRS RODI and in the first direction the blue line was gushing water at the valve and no water was getting through. As soon as I flipped it around it started working. I hope this didn't damage my brand new piece of equipment. You need to shoot a new video or ammend this one because it's bad information.
I'm finding that when I installed mine, even when I have my ball valve turned off when I'm not creating any RODI water, the booster pump still is running when plugged in. Is there a reason for that?
If the ball valve is located before the pressure switch, the switch will not function properly. Assuming that the ball valve is after the pressure switch, then it does take a few minutes (usually 5-15 mins or so) for the switch to activate and the pump to turn off. If that's not happening, feel free to shoot us an email with some photos of how everything is plumbed and we can help troubleshoot.
@@BRStv I had the same problem and found that the switch needs to be hooked up to the power supply directly. Then plug the pump into the y. I found that playing with how the wiring is connected fixed my problem.
Hay Randy I just need a sediment cainster do y'all sell them the intake valve connected to the cainster cracked offs there a better fix or I need to replace the whole cainster thanks
I think we can definitely improve on some of these how-to's. For a quick answer to your questions, the shut off switch will be placed after the entire RODI unit. As for the booster pump kit we carry, there is no solenoid to install, however you could add one in to your own setup if you desired in which case I'd install it after the pressure sensor switch. You can always give our CS team a quick call for help like this or more! We're here to help. 🙂 763-432-9691
Do you guys sell just the hanging bracket and just he shut off switch? I have a used booster that didn't come with either of those. Thanks guys and great video!
I bought a new aquatec 5800 DDP because I thought the old one had gone bad. The problem I'm still having is that the water pressure starts fine when getting water from our fridge but then slows rapidly within a few seconds and I can hear the pump still running. Any ideas?
How come you guys dont sell electronic cut of valves as a kit with this pump? I replaced two auto cutoff switches because it leaks water thru the waste water line when i wasnt producing water with the pump off. I added the electronic cut off switch that opens the supply line when the pump turns on and it works like a champ.
BulkReefSupplyCom I bought one out of amazon and it works great. I was tired of wasting so much water specially since i am using a water softner. I think a lot of reefers could benefit from it if you guys sell it.
How much pressure boost do you typically see from this pump? I'm currently at 40psi input pressure on my RO unit (which is doing just fine with reducing ~200TDS tap water down to ~3TDS), but I would love to upgrade to the 150gpd kit. Do you think this pump would give me enough boost to upgrade?
@@BRStv got it installed with the float valve so now it’s all automatic! What’s the ideal pressure for the 4stage ? With the booster pump I’m around 85 90 but it seems like the canisters are leaking a tiny bit. Should I dial down to 80?
The booster pump will need to be installed before the RO membrane. Ideally it would be installed after the pre-filters, but the most common installation is before the RODI system as a whole. If you aren't able to install before the pre-filters, they make a small strainer that can help protect the pump from any larger particles that might make their way in. www.bulkreefsupply.com/dm-fit-filter-strainer.html
It's good to know ahead of time that that screw only decreases the pressure never increases so whatever it goes to it goes to and then hopefully you can bring it down
I've bought two of these pumps for my RODI system (6800 and 8800). My pressure is about 20 PSI and doesn't change at all with the pump running. The pump is definitely running and definitely hooked up in the right direction. Any idea what could possibly be going wrong?
If you added a booster to the system I would expect to see a pressure increase. Is it possible the flush valve on the waste line is open? Since we saw no pressure change this could be a factor. If really struggling with this feel free to contact our support for some help! :)
missed a lot, like product water to waste ratio's, the fact that the booster should be installed after pre filter and carbon stage to reduce possible fines from carbon block getting shaken loose, a check valve after carbon cartridge can help keep bouncing water pressure from affecting anything. Major thing is waste water ratio will be off when running higher psi and needs to be tuned, or with cost of membranes being cheaper just changed more frequently. water pressure needs to be kept in system or unplugged after use.
My incoming TDS is 455 softened water, 50 gpd Dow membrane, well preasure fluctuating between 40/50 psi and I was producing 18 gpd at 12 tds.
I Installed a booster pump, upgraded to a 75 gpd Dow membrane, psi is now 60/70 psi, I'm producing 73 gpd at 1 TDS. What a difference.
I got the booster pump upgrade . Love these videos to remind me how to do it.
Another great another great video Randy. Thanks for all you do.
ReeferGil you watch Brs tv
I do. I follow a lot of other aquarium channels. BRSTV is one of the best.
Thanks answered my problem of the pump was putting out 100 psi and i need to reduce. i also installed dampeners before the gauges because the pump was banging the gauges.
Can you install the pump after the RO filter? I already have a pump in my filter but its an enclosed system so I cant get to it but the pressure on the outlet is only 20psi and I need 30 to 40.
Have a hard time getting a sense of the overall layout from this. Views are too local. Does the Pump get installed after or before the filters?
Well, I'm using my refrigerator water line... 25 p.s.i. 😂 I'm going to need a booster pump!
Thankyou my dude this really helped me out
2:42 Is that an allen key? What size is it? Thank you!
You got it! 1/16" size
Hi, A related question. I would like to install the R/O 30 linear feet away from my sink.
What is your take on installing a booster pump after the storage tank (in addition to before the membrane) to increase the flow to the faucet?
Before you buy a booster pump, check to see if you can adjust your home's water regulator to a higher psi.
I increased the water pressure in my house from 40 psi to 60 psi with the turn of a wrench. This only works up to the pressure in the mains.
Perhaps there was a reason why it was set 40psi. Maybe your home's plumbing is not good with higher pressure.
@@bhbae1 Other than maybe a little higher water usage we've noticed no negative effects. I believe that 40 psi was just what the regulator was set at when it was installed.
@@jTempVids That's good that your home plumbing is not affected by increased pressure. I am afraid of any long term leak over increased pressure.
Is this also applies on Drinking water ro system right?
why would making the adjustment to the booster only reduce, not increase pressure? Assumed that they arrive at max pressure?
That's correct. The set screw arrives screwed all the way in. You can back it out to reduce pressure if needed.
my rodi always leaks on one of those connections. how long's the warranty
Tank won’t fill, water only flows for a couple seconds until it becomes a trickle, and water flows quickly out black brine line.
Tank maintains air pressure as far as I know (can’t get a perfect reading from the warped air-fill valve).
Is the water pressure from the home too low, or ASO or check valve needs replaced?
If you don't have a pressure gauge on your system, the best thing you can do (aside form adding one) is to collect the product water and time how long it takes to make 1 gallon. From there, you should be able to figure out how many gallons per day your system is producing. If it's substantially lower than what the RO membrane is rated for, it's likely that your pressure is lower than ideal.
All of that said, we highly recommend adding a pressure gauge as it will best help you troubleshoot your system and optimize performance.
www.bulkreefsupply.com/glycerin-filled-pressure-gauge-1-100-psi.html
@@BRStv it doesn’t have a gauge built in, but I just lowered the tank’s empty pressure to ~8psi with my tire gauge and that allowed water to enter. Thanks for the info!
I saw the booster pump being used after the sediment section of the rodi unit then booster pump tube went directly in to the membrane section
my home water pressure varies from about 40psi to about 65psi. Will the booster pump cause any problems with that variable input pressure?
Hello, a question, I wanted to know why the pump was not installed on the RO membrane inlet line?
Thank you so much and excuse my English.
You are right, for the reverse osmosis process to take place, the pump must be installed after the three filters and before the membrane because it needs pressure to complete the process, otherwise the waste water will be a large amount, because the purpose of the pump is reverse osmosis, and nothing else, the pressure of the water that comes to the filters is enough To fill it, and pass to the other side, the pump to reduce waste.
Cool. Can't wait to see the video on how to install a filter monitor
ok... so how do you size a pump to a system when never are flow and pressure ratings of the pump made available???
The Aquatec 8800 booster pump kit works with RO systems from 50 GPD all the way up to dual membrane systems at 200 GPD or more. There is a small adjustment screw on the top of the booster pump if you need to turn down the pressure a bit (unscrew the screw slowly to turn pressure down).
I bought an aqua fx booster model # 9644, and it took my well water source @45psi and made it 90+ psi, and it's at the lowest setting, should I be worried?
We usually recommend staying at or below 90 PSI as the higher you go, the higher the chances are for a leak to develop in the RO system connection points.
will this set up work with the system you previously described where the waste water is sent back through the unit for one last treatment? (And in turn cut down on waste water loss)
My main line pressure is fine, but my RO is low. I recently (today) bought a new refrigerator and hooked my Watts RO to the refrigerator water line, as well as keeping it connected to the sink drinking line.
The water pressure is pretty low, causing the water dispenser to drip on the fridge. (I was told if pressure is below 29psi, the fridge valve may not close properly.
Is this the booster I need?? Or is this only if your city/main line has low pressure…??
Just my RO had low pressure…
If you're going to be hooking the RO system up to a refrigerator water dispenser or ice machine, you're going to want to install a pressure tank. RO systems produce water really slowly, so having a pressure tank will give you water on demand much much faster and avoid that fridge valve issue that you mentioned.
When we talk about pressure, we're usually concerned with the pressure right before the RO membrane as pressure will affect it's performance. If the pressure in that location is 29 psi, you'll definitely want a booster pump (50+ psi is recommended)
@@BRStv Thanks for the info.
I do have a 3 gallon water tank, will it help with pressure if I add a second 3 gallon tank?
Again, thanks for the help, trying to avoid a 400.00 plumbing bill for someone to do a simple task that I (possibly) could have done.
Just to confirm here.... After shutting off the water supply line, the booster pump will run for an additional 5-15 minutes before shutting off? Pump is on the main supply line, just after my shutoff valve and the included pressure sensor is hooked up after my last stage of DI on its way to collection.
Shutting off the water supply would have no effect. The pump will shut off when pressure builds up and the pressure switch triggers. In typical situations, the pressure switch is installed on the product line and pressure builds up when a float valve is triggered.
Im totally getting one of these in the future.
Can you install booster pump after ro filter to increase holding tank pressure? I have 60psi in, 20 psi out. Is this normal?
It's normal for the product line to not have as much pressure as the source line. We wouldn't recommend a booster pump on the product line, only before the RO membrane.
Video does not mention connecting a solenoid. Is that not necessary?
Could the pump overheat if you lose water pressure?
Hey their bro I have a 50 GPD LP ro unit and have well water and my pressure is like 30 and high 40 psi and my auto shut off is not shutting off what can I do can you please help.
The auto shut off valve will trigger at about 40 psi, so it's likely that your low pressure is why it's not working properly. We would suggest installing a booster pump in your case.
My pump works when plugged in without the pressure switch. It does not function when wired up with pressure switch unless source water is turned off. Then it cuts the pump on when basically almost dry. Can you help? I also have a pressure gauge I’m going to hook up soon, because the existing one died.
I'm getting about 34psi on my gauge. I have the BRS 4 Stage Value Water Saver Plus Reverse Osmosis/Deionization System - 150 GPD I just use to make drinking water. Do I get the 1/4" or 3/8" 8800 Booster Pump Kit by Aquatec? What is the max psi I can achieve with this booster kit? I hope to hit between 65 - 75 psi.
Got my answer. I will get the kit when it becomes available. BRS site rocks!
My water pressure just about 50psi, been ponder whether I should add a pump. Maybe I will soon, can hurt and I could reduce the pressure if need be.
The flow direction on the shutoff valve absolutely matters. I just installed this on a BRS RODI and in the first direction the blue line was gushing water at the valve and no water was getting through. As soon as I flipped it around it started working. I hope this didn't damage my brand new piece of equipment. You need to shoot a new video or ammend this one because it's bad information.
I'm finding that when I installed mine, even when I have my ball valve turned off when I'm not creating any RODI water, the booster pump still is running when plugged in. Is there a reason for that?
If the ball valve is located before the pressure switch, the switch will not function properly.
Assuming that the ball valve is after the pressure switch, then it does take a few minutes (usually 5-15 mins or so) for the switch to activate and the pump to turn off. If that's not happening, feel free to shoot us an email with some photos of how everything is plumbed and we can help troubleshoot.
@@BRStv I had the same problem and found that the switch needs to be hooked up to the power supply directly. Then plug the pump into the y. I found that playing with how the wiring is connected fixed my problem.
Hay Randy I just need a sediment cainster do y'all sell them the intake valve connected to the cainster cracked offs there a better fix or I need to replace the whole cainster thanks
BulkReefSupplyCom hay thanks I really appreciate the info
I don't feel like I was really shown how to install a pump. Where to plumb switch, is there any solenoid...? This is a very vague clip.
I think we can definitely improve on some of these how-to's. For a quick answer to your questions, the shut off switch will be placed after the entire RODI unit. As for the booster pump kit we carry, there is no solenoid to install, however you could add one in to your own setup if you desired in which case I'd install it after the pressure sensor switch. You can always give our CS team a quick call for help like this or more! We're here to help. 🙂 763-432-9691
How long should these pumps run until they turn off with a high pressure switch
It depends on how long your product line tubing is, but generally less than 15 minutes.
Wish they included the wrench for the adjustments
Do you guys sell just the hanging bracket and just he shut off switch? I have a used booster that didn't come with either of those. Thanks guys and great video!
Sounds good thanks guys!
I bought a new aquatec 5800 DDP because I thought the old one had gone bad. The problem I'm still having is that the water pressure starts fine when getting water from our fridge but then slows rapidly within a few seconds and I can hear the pump still running. Any ideas?
Where do I install pressure switch if I have undersink RO unit with faucet, is it just before the tank
How come you guys dont sell electronic cut of valves as a kit with this pump? I replaced two auto cutoff switches because it leaks water thru the waste water line when i wasnt producing water with the pump off. I added the electronic cut off switch that opens the supply line when the pump turns on and it works like a champ.
BulkReefSupplyCom I bought one out of amazon and it works great. I was tired of wasting so much water specially since i am using a water softner. I think a lot of reefers could benefit from it if you guys sell it.
How much pressure boost do you typically see from this pump? I'm currently at 40psi input pressure on my RO unit (which is doing just fine with reducing ~200TDS tap water down to ~3TDS), but I would love to upgrade to the 150gpd kit. Do you think this pump would give me enough boost to upgrade?
Mine went from 45psi to 100psi.
Will it stop running if water Stoped in input side
No it won't, I tried with mine
Does the pump ever require maintenance?
Wish you guys would slow down a little bit and really show the install. From water source to zoomed in shots. Seems a bit quick
How often does someone have to replace the pump? What is their life expectancy?
It'll be dependent on how often and long you run the pump, but most of the pumps around here have been in use for years.
Am I supposed to splice the red outtake water line in half and install the booster pump in between? You don’t explain it well enough in this video
That's correct. The booster pump needs to be installed on the source water line before the RO membrane.
@@BRStv got it installed with the float valve so now it’s all automatic! What’s the ideal pressure for the 4stage ? With the booster pump I’m around 85 90 but it seems like the canisters are leaking a tiny bit. Should I dial down to 80?
Put on booster pump water pressure was at 40 with booster it is 85 is that to much pressure
Why do some install it before the reservoir tank
The booster pump will need to be installed before the RO membrane. Ideally it would be installed after the pre-filters, but the most common installation is before the RODI system as a whole. If you aren't able to install before the pre-filters, they make a small strainer that can help protect the pump from any larger particles that might make their way in.
www.bulkreefsupply.com/dm-fit-filter-strainer.html
It's good to know ahead of time that that screw only decreases the pressure never increases so whatever it goes to it goes to and then hopefully you can bring it down
I've bought two of these pumps for my RODI system (6800 and 8800). My pressure is about 20 PSI and doesn't change at all with the pump running. The pump is definitely running and definitely hooked up in the right direction. Any idea what could possibly be going wrong?
If you added a booster to the system I would expect to see a pressure increase. Is it possible the flush valve on the waste line is open? Since we saw no pressure change this could be a factor. If really struggling with this feel free to contact our support for some help! :)
@@BRStv I’m having the same problem at 45 psi, I plugged it in correctly and still won’t go above 45 pai
Ever find the solution to this problem lol?
missed a lot, like product water to waste ratio's, the fact that the booster should be installed after pre filter and carbon stage to reduce possible fines from carbon block getting shaken loose, a check valve after carbon cartridge can help keep bouncing water pressure from affecting anything. Major thing is waste water ratio will be off when running higher psi and needs to be tuned, or with cost of membranes being cheaper just changed more frequently. water pressure needs to be kept in system or unplugged after use.
Ok
Didnt show crap