if only the aquatec brand booster pump wasn't a piece of crap. I ordered one in July.... didn't work out of the box. returned it and was sent another one and same thing. pump runs but doesn't increase water pressure at all in the RO unit. Tried the adjustment screw on the top of the pump which also did nothing.
Hmm, it's really unusual to see no rise in PSI when installing one of these. Make sure that your flush valve is in the closed (restricted) position (if your RO system has one). Another thing to keep in mind is that the 8800 requires a starting water pressure of at least 20 PSI in order to function properly. Of course, don't hesitate to utilize our customer service team as we can always help troubleshoot. A few pics of your RO/DI system's plumbing can help us ID any potential issues.
I have a low and high pressure switch hooked up to the booster pump and it all works perfectly. Purchased an auto flush but it just has two bare wires and not sure where or how to splice it in??
I use a reverse almosis for window cleaning when my water barrel is filled up. My float turns it off. So my machine goes coming on and off all the time. My waistwater keep going my waistwater keep coming on
Actually the opposite (at least to a point). We did a BRStv Investigates on that question a little while back and found that higher pressure means better rejection rate, less waste water, and faster water production. Here is a link to that video if you wanted to check it out! ua-cam.com/video/X14cUW-DXbs/v-deo.html
@@BulkReefSupply very interesting thanks. also the rejection rate remains the same once the average home psi is reached... I thought it would have increased at 125psi (8800's rating). it would have been nice if this vid tested to the 125psi... in the vid he recommends staying at 70 psi. so what's the point of the booster?
Will BRS ever offer a fully automated, pressurized RODI system (pump, shut off, flush, pressure switch, etc) without having to buy separate installable parts??
I wouldn’t buy an auto flush valve with a built I. Flow destructor because they wear out . Buy one without a flow restrictor and use an external flow restrictor. Even if you have this system you better run it for at least a minute or two because even an 18 second flush at startup isn’t enough to bring the tds down to anywhere near a level you want going into a bed of di resin. You better get a gauge and inline tds meter as well when you do this because sample testing with a handheld meter is way to much of a pita.
I usually find these entertaining or informative. But I really learned quite a bit from this one.
Thank you. This is going on the future upgrades list
Thank you for this video! I bought the booster kit 6 months ago and could not figure out how to install it. Now I know and today I install it!
I don’t blame you on those famous Amos cookies Matt !
A booster pump is a very important component to have which really helps to extend the life of your membrane. Some good tips Matthew
Question... Does the booster pump go before the rodi or directly in between the ro and membrane so it boosts only the membrane
Nice. Just ordered one.
Is the automatic flush valve necessary or can I still use the one my 150gpd came with?
Very2 informative...love ur content😊
if only the aquatec brand booster pump wasn't a piece of crap. I ordered one in July.... didn't work out of the box. returned it and was sent another one and same thing. pump runs but doesn't increase water pressure at all in the RO unit. Tried the adjustment screw on the top of the pump which also did nothing.
Hmm, it's really unusual to see no rise in PSI when installing one of these. Make sure that your flush valve is in the closed (restricted) position (if your RO system has one). Another thing to keep in mind is that the 8800 requires a starting water pressure of at least 20 PSI in order to function properly.
Of course, don't hesitate to utilize our customer service team as we can always help troubleshoot. A few pics of your RO/DI system's plumbing can help us ID any potential issues.
I have a low and high pressure switch hooked up to the booster pump and it all works perfectly. Purchased an auto flush but it just has two bare wires and not sure where or how to splice it in??
Shoot a message to our support team if you got this auto flush through us. The auto flush should come with the clip pre-installed (no bare wires)
I use a reverse almosis for window cleaning when my water barrel is filled up. My float turns it off. So my machine goes coming on and off all the time. My waistwater keep going my waistwater keep coming on
Is there just one booster pump for all Membranes or i have to choose like 60 psi for a 75gpd and 90 for 150gdp, something like that ?
Doesn't it decrease the effectiveness of the filter to push water through faster than was designed for?
Actually the opposite (at least to a point). We did a BRStv Investigates on that question a little while back and found that higher pressure means better rejection rate, less waste water, and faster water production. Here is a link to that video if you wanted to check it out! ua-cam.com/video/X14cUW-DXbs/v-deo.html
@@BulkReefSupply very interesting thanks. also the rejection rate remains the same once the average home psi is reached... I thought it would have increased at 125psi (8800's rating). it would have been nice if this vid tested to the 125psi... in the vid he recommends staying at 70 psi. so what's the point of the booster?
Will BRS ever offer a fully automated, pressurized RODI system (pump, shut off, flush, pressure switch, etc) without having to buy separate installable parts??
If you ask the guys, for sure they can do it for you
Just go ahead and take a bathroom break 😆
What was that faucet attachment that allows you to switch between sink and ro filter? I've been searching everywhere!
Chrome faucet diverter valve. SKU200013
its literally on the brs website so I guess you didn't search to hard
@@joe0813 well when you don't know what's something called it kinda makes it tough to search for it bud
Here is a link to the diverter valve: www.bulkreefsupply.com/chrome-faucet-diverter-valve.html
I wouldn’t buy an auto flush valve with a built I. Flow destructor because they wear out . Buy one without a flow restrictor and use an external flow restrictor. Even if you have this system you better run it for at least a minute or two because even an 18 second flush at startup isn’t enough to bring the tds down to anywhere near a level you want going into a bed of di resin. You better get a gauge and inline tds meter as well when you do this because sample testing with a handheld meter is way to much of a pita.