The 'Beware the Breakthrough' bit is absolute gold. As my technique improved and I was climbing into the harder grades, nearly every finger issue I've had happened because I had reached a new level, was psyched, and then kablam...injured. Hadn't recognized that's what was going on til I heard you say it. Thank you for the insight!
The part on restraining oneself when you're feeling good gave me Gramsci's "I’m a pessimist because of intelligence, but an optimist because of will." vibes... I need a hug, maybe.
Moderation, when it comes to climbing, is not a skill I have. So, if I want to train for 2h, I arrive at the gym 2h before it closes. It's the only way I found to prevent 7 hours long sessions, like I've had before, and paid a high price for 😅
My skin always gives out before 2 hours. It does not react well with chalk. So that has been my limiter and also been a benefit at times. Leaving the session with energy left.
He is really good! Great video. Its hard to step back and do something different instead if you are not feeling it as you have the worst opponent, your ego 😅
Great discussion! I‘d love to hear a female perspective on this, especially counting in the menstrual cycle. For example, I feel a lot of power in the ovulation phase, but every ovulation phase is followed by a pre-menstrual phase, so keeping up the same intensity is just not working. I could imagine that women are more aware of what their body needs and train more flexible anyways. Do you have statistics about if man or women get more injured?
Hi Manuela, from the latest research it seems as though injury rates are similar between genders. But the areas of the body that are injured are different. For females shoulders and ankles are most commonly injured. Sadly the research on the menstrual cycle is still in its infancy. Much of the research done so far has been of poor quality. Those in the field recommend you note what happens to you in your cycle, not what happens to everyone else. You can then plan around that, but also don't expect it to be the same every cycle. Lattice have done a couple of good videos on this subject actually. But the overall message (as with all training) is to individuaise it for yourself by observing over time what happens to you.
A problem I feel like as well is the training you see or hear about people doing in the media. Mostly about proffesional climbers. People say they "know" x climber would be really good because they always try/push really hard and/or train realy hard. And I don't understand how they don't get injured. Obviously even if you're already a pro climber you're already used to a lot of intense training. But to me it seems if you ALWAYS push hard, even then you'll get injuries as well no? The more I learn about good climbing training it's more about well structured and quality but not too intense training instead of just doing as many 4x4s, projects, pullups, campus, etc etc as you're physically able to every day. (correct me if I'm wrong though)
Please analyze my routine and give me feedback. I have been climbing for 4 years, just starting to climb v9 on kilterboard (v7 moonboard), am 35, and 135lbs. thank you!!! Monday - warm up (15m), unweighted pull ups (30 min with stretching in off time), weighted hangboarding (30m), strong board climb (1 hr), precision climbing (1 hr) Wednesday - warm up (15m), core exercise (30m), weighted hangboarding (30m), strong board climb (1 hr), hard gym climbing (1 hr) Friday - warm up (15m), weighted pull ups (30m), core exercise (30m), bicep/triceps (12m), gym climb (30m), 4x4s (30m)
I’ve been climbing 5-6 days/ week in the morning and 3 of those days I lift and finger train after work. It’s a blast and I’m on week 5. It was a lot of easy moonboard and light loads for 3 weeks and now I’m ramping up the intensity and it’s a blast.
Wauw, 5/6 days a week.. that's a lot of climbing though if you ask me! Tendons & pulleys take up to 48h (sometimes 72 hours) to recover. Make sure to rest enough and give your body time to adapt :-) you might look at it as actual part of training. If someone disagrees , please tell me
Yup. Beware the breakthrough. If you have reached a new flash level go back to the old level for a few weeks. Otherwise you have to go back many more levels for months...
I just have a lot of trouble understanding when discomfort crosses the line into "warning signs." I feel like if I stopped whenever I had the slightest amount of pain, I'd just not be able to climb ever... Is it just about intensity of discomfort, or the length it lasts for, or some combination of these two?
This is a question Andy will be able to answer better than myself. My answer would be, it's about both. Yes intensity matters. If you get sharp pain OR you can feel it specifically in a local structure e.g. individual knuckle or just left elbow you have reference to other structures that something is not right. Duration is also really important. If discomfort is still present hours after climbing that is warning sign. Same if you feel sore the day after (not inc. DOMS). If you're unsure, speak to someone like Andy :)
My experience with niggles and old injuries is that if I'm not super careful with my warmup they tend to flare up and, if I'm lucky, go away when I am fully warmed up, or if I'm unlucky, stay with me for days or weeks. If you don't already do it I recommend a thorough warm-up routine starting with blood flow and mobility and ending with near max efforts for basically every joint you can justify spending time on :) This makes me feel less pain after a session than before, except for skin :)
@@deschain1910 It's my turn to agree fully with Josh this time and say I do not have much to add to that. Record what happens to you and track it. A weekly check in from head to toe of niggles can be useful. Then you can see what comes and goes and what is staying. If it stays, that's an injury. If it goes, it was a niggle. It's easy to lose track of how long low level niggles have been hanging around for as they are not constant.
Is there a good place to inform about climbing specific injuries? I have a pain in my finger while gripping with my finger tips. There is nothing in my every day activities, only in the morning, if I close my hands first time I feel it as well. But I have not idea what to do about it. It is this way since 2 month now :(
Hooper's beta YT channel has great content on a wide variety of climbing related injuries, where they dive deep into the assessment/treatment/recovery/prevention, all evidence based. My quick guess as for what you might have, is a pulley injury. Have a look into their content on the topic. I myself have had quite a few pulley injuries going from light ones to full tears. At the end of the day the most important thing that I've learned is to put yourself in situations where you can control most of the variables to prevent the majority of the injuries. Time and patience are key as well, just like better technique to unload your upper body from doing all the work... Best of luck!
No chapters no view. I need to know what is about before spending 17 minutes here. Just like you would read the back of a book before buying it. Clickbait title isn’t enough Having said that, I’ll watch the video straight away but please next time
I'm going to watch this video, nod my head like I understand and then completely ignore all the tips at the gym!
Are you even a climber if you don’t 😂
The 'Beware the Breakthrough' bit is absolute gold. As my technique improved and I was climbing into the harder grades, nearly every finger issue I've had happened because I had reached a new level, was psyched, and then kablam...injured. Hadn't recognized that's what was going on til I heard you say it. Thank you for the insight!
Same fore me.
The part on restraining oneself when you're feeling good gave me Gramsci's "I’m a pessimist because of intelligence, but an optimist because of will." vibes... I need a hug, maybe.
Off all the names to drop in a climbing video I didn’t expect that one. I love it lol
@@Canucklepuckcommie lol... We gotta try our best, comrade
Moderation, when it comes to climbing, is not a skill I have. So, if I want to train for 2h, I arrive at the gym 2h before it closes. It's the only way I found to prevent 7 hours long sessions, like I've had before, and paid a high price for 😅
My skin always gives out before 2 hours. It does not react well with chalk. So that has been my limiter and also been a benefit at times. Leaving the session with energy left.
this is realy good advice, especialy the "wisper" when listening to your boddy and tha fact that mind and body are 1 unit
I'm definitely biased having purchased one of Andys's portable FBs, but these are the best lattice videos imo! 🙏🙏
He is really good! Great video. Its hard to step back and do something different instead if you are not feeling it as you have the worst opponent, your ego 😅
Great video! As a beginner, I'm trying to avoid injuries at all costs so I can keep climbing and steadily improve
Great discussion! I‘d love to hear a female perspective on this, especially counting in the menstrual cycle. For example, I feel a lot of power in the ovulation phase, but every ovulation phase is followed by a pre-menstrual phase, so keeping up the same intensity is just not working. I could imagine that women are more aware of what their body needs and train more flexible anyways. Do you have statistics about if man or women get more injured?
Hi Manuela, from the latest research it seems as though injury rates are similar between genders. But the areas of the body that are injured are different. For females shoulders and ankles are most commonly injured. Sadly the research on the menstrual cycle is still in its infancy. Much of the research done so far has been of poor quality. Those in the field recommend you note what happens to you in your cycle, not what happens to everyone else. You can then plan around that, but also don't expect it to be the same every cycle. Lattice have done a couple of good videos on this subject actually. But the overall message (as with all training) is to individuaise it for yourself by observing over time what happens to you.
A problem I feel like as well is the training you see or hear about people doing in the media. Mostly about proffesional climbers. People say they "know" x climber would be really good because they always try/push really hard and/or train realy hard. And I don't understand how they don't get injured. Obviously even if you're already a pro climber you're already used to a lot of intense training. But to me it seems if you ALWAYS push hard, even then you'll get injuries as well no?
The more I learn about good climbing training it's more about well structured and quality but not too intense training instead of just doing as many 4x4s, projects, pullups, campus, etc etc as you're physically able to every day. (correct me if I'm wrong though)
Great points. Very helpful.
Great to see you on here Andy 😄👍
Thanks Iggi. You next? Training and gaining as we age?
Please analyze my routine and give me feedback. I have been climbing for 4 years, just starting to climb v9 on kilterboard (v7 moonboard), am 35, and 135lbs. thank you!!!
Monday - warm up (15m), unweighted pull ups (30 min with stretching in off time), weighted hangboarding (30m), strong board climb (1 hr), precision climbing (1 hr)
Wednesday - warm up (15m), core exercise (30m), weighted hangboarding (30m), strong board climb (1 hr), hard gym climbing (1 hr)
Friday - warm up (15m), weighted pull ups (30m), core exercise (30m), bicep/triceps (12m), gym climb (30m), 4x4s (30m)
I’ve been climbing 5-6 days/ week in the morning and 3 of those days I lift and finger train after work.
It’s a blast and I’m on week 5. It was a lot of easy moonboard and light loads for 3 weeks and now I’m ramping up the intensity and it’s a blast.
Wauw, 5/6 days a week.. that's a lot of climbing though if you ask me! Tendons & pulleys take up to 48h (sometimes 72 hours) to recover. Make sure to rest enough and give your body time to adapt :-) you might look at it as actual part of training.
If someone disagrees , please tell me
Yup. Beware the breakthrough.
If you have reached a new flash level go back to the old level for a few weeks.
Otherwise you have to go back many more levels for months...
I just have a lot of trouble understanding when discomfort crosses the line into "warning signs." I feel like if I stopped whenever I had the slightest amount of pain, I'd just not be able to climb ever...
Is it just about intensity of discomfort, or the length it lasts for, or some combination of these two?
This is a question Andy will be able to answer better than myself. My answer would be, it's about both.
Yes intensity matters. If you get sharp pain OR you can feel it specifically in a local structure e.g. individual knuckle or just left elbow you have reference to other structures that something is not right.
Duration is also really important. If discomfort is still present hours after climbing that is warning sign. Same if you feel sore the day after (not inc. DOMS).
If you're unsure, speak to someone like Andy :)
@@LatticeTraining
Thank you!
My experience with niggles and old injuries is that if I'm not super careful with my warmup they tend to flare up and, if I'm lucky, go away when I am fully warmed up, or if I'm unlucky, stay with me for days or weeks. If you don't already do it I recommend a thorough warm-up routine starting with blood flow and mobility and ending with near max efforts for basically every joint you can justify spending time on :) This makes me feel less pain after a session than before, except for skin :)
@@deschain1910 It's my turn to agree fully with Josh this time and say I do not have much to add to that. Record what happens to you and track it. A weekly check in from head to toe of niggles can be useful. Then you can see what comes and goes and what is staying. If it stays, that's an injury. If it goes, it was a niggle. It's easy to lose track of how long low level niggles have been hanging around for as they are not constant.
Is there a good place to inform about climbing specific injuries? I have a pain in my finger while gripping with my finger tips. There is nothing in my every day activities, only in the morning, if I close my hands first time I feel it as well. But I have not idea what to do about it. It is this way since 2 month now :(
Hooper's beta YT channel has great content on a wide variety of climbing related injuries, where they dive deep into the assessment/treatment/recovery/prevention, all evidence based.
My quick guess as for what you might have, is a pulley injury. Have a look into their content on the topic.
I myself have had quite a few pulley injuries going from light ones to full tears. At the end of the day the most important thing that I've learned is to put yourself in situations where you can control most of the variables to prevent the majority of the injuries. Time and patience are key as well, just like better technique to unload your upper body from doing all the work...
Best of luck!
Contact this physio, he's really good.
@@giuliocollotta9459 Thanks, that looks very helpfull
Max hangs three times a week and moonboard the day after. Yay or nay?
Let her rip my guy
4:46
No chapters no view.
I need to know what is about before spending 17 minutes here.
Just like you would read the back of a book before buying it.
Clickbait title isn’t enough
Having said that, I’ll watch the video straight away but please next time
Chapters are in the description if you want to skip
@@LatticeTraining Thanks, though you know that's not what I mean.
@@cape34 Updated 😊
Thank you!