You just demonstrated the extremes I might need to go through. My concern and caution is that My new to me MAS 49/56 has been refurbished and parkerized, so I am juggling how gentle I need to be without damaging the finish. Really helpful video!
I would add the suggestion of wrapping the bronze brush in with a piece of big frontier metal cleaning alloy wool and scrubbing it but im not sure how well it works myself. Im going to try it with a rifle that has really strong rifling but some rust and pitting. Other than that just scrubbing with a bronze brush untill it comes out somewhat clean seems to work ok. If the rust is only on the end of the bore maybe you could just put a dab of rust remover on that spot?
Rust on a firearm either external or internal is never a good thing to leave. Depending on your environment, such as the tropics, the inside of the barrel will continue to rust until its plugged, as the US marines found out in WW2 before chrome plating was used. A product called Naval Jelly works quite good for removing rust. Follow the directions. Once the rust is removed, a product called CorrosionX will keep it from returning.
Never dull at your local automotive store or big box store will shine your dark bore. Just use it like a patch. It is amazing the differance it made on my mosin. I found out how this product worked from a site that sold mosin nagant scope mounts. It also works great on smoothing out ak 47 actions as well. I now can cycle my action with one finger.
The biggest problem with pitted bores in my experience is that they foul really quickly, a lot of them will fire two or three good groups but then accuracy go's down the toilet after that. .
When I get a rifle that has a dark bore I run a brush soaked in oil through it then a couple patches. If it is still dark I don't worry about it till I shoot it. I have found out that many guns with bad bores will still shoot well, guess what I am saying is not to worry or write a gun off to you shoot it. I think it is possible to make a dark bore gun worse by over cleaning it trying to make the bore bright.
Plug the crown with plastine/clay, pour karosene down the breach until full, prop up against the wall for a few days, pour it out run a couple patches thru and done... way way easier than this process.
I am not trying to be overly contentious, but warm water does not neutralize the salts created by corrosive primers. Metal is porous. And water leaves some amount of the salts behind. Boiling water helps. And using oil to protect the bore helps. But the salts impregnated in the metal are very difficult to completely remove. It is not as simple as you say.
+kotzting Hot soapy water with a hot water rinse repeated and scrubbed many times is really the only way to totally get rid of corrosive salts. I do this first before doing any regular cleaning when corrosive primers are involved.
Have you tried bore lapping with lapping compound? I bought some to try on a dark bore. I want to try your method first, if still bad, I plan on trying bore (fire) lapping.
Maybe you can answer a question I have about my mosin nagant barrel. When looking down the bore there seems to be a line or seam that runs straight down the lenght of the barrel. Is that normal? Thanks Alot, John
What would you recommend to remove a lot of leading in a 1873 Springfield trapdoor? I just bought it and its packed what solvent would be best for the type of fouling it has(black powder +lead)
A bore cleaner for corrosive primers is only good for a bore that isn't rusted yet. As he mentioned, the old military way was to use a bucket of warm soapy water and the old style long wooden cleaning rod. The muzzle was placed in the water and the cleaning rod pumped up and down to wash out the acidic residue. The bore was then dried with a couple dry patches then oiled. A couple days later, a light coating of grease was applied with a greased cleaning patch(great for Black powder as well). Valve grinding compound(600 grit) rubbed into the cleaning patch will make things shine. I have never had to use more than two. There is process called 'fire polishing' where it is applied to the bullet but this makes it necessary to clean out the powder residue every time (two steps forward, one back). I have found that this works better than fine steel wool in the cleaning jag.
Bought an Aero Precision barrel about 4 months ago. Opened it up, made sure everything looked ok, packed it back up. Finally put a rifle together with it last week, look down the bore, and its got a coat of rust through most of the barrel. What should I do? Is this even normal for a new barrel? I didn't even think about lubing it up when I got it, thought every barrel came greased up from the factory. Never had a round fired through it.
what you can try is get some Kroil oil it is a pentrating oil, or Ballistol it is thicker, both of these products are very good for removing rust. pour a small amount down the bore then run a brass brush through the bore,
Thanks. I think I'm just going to leave it and try to send the barrel back to Aero. The fact that the barrel never left the packaging and still rusted in 4 months, the fact that my copper brushes are bringing out way too many metal shavings just doesn't sit right with me. What if I was a supplier or dealer just trying to keep parts stocked? Would I have to keep a bucket of motor oil on standby just to throw all their parts in when they arrive?
I was going to try and use electrolysis to clean the rust from my Mosin bore... it works great for de rusting old tools and old bike / car parts, I don't see how it wont work for a rifle bore..as long as you DO NOT put anything made os Stainless Steel into the tank, it should work well!
@@tac2oo7 no I didn’t… while using it to restore a couple old vises I found out that once you take the parts out of the solution they “flash” rust in no time if you don’t oil them and keep them oiled or painted. It would work though, it does a great job removing rust but you have to really stay on top of the parts afterwards.
Or, you could hire an excellent machinist to fit a NEW barrel on. To keep some of the collector value and shoot it... A NEW barrel cut to the original profile...could be fitted on...
Good information i can use sometime. Your a military gun collector so could you or anybody teading this tell me of a gunsmith near Ky that could re barrel a lee enfield? The 303 cal shoots good but its a nightmare to reload. The cases dont last long enuff to make it cheaper to reload Thanks.
You just demonstrated the extremes I might need to go through. My concern and caution is that My new to me MAS 49/56 has been refurbished and parkerized, so I am juggling how gentle I need to be without damaging the finish. Really helpful video!
You might do an updated version of this video. I'm sure you've learned a few things in the last decade.
I would add the suggestion of wrapping the bronze brush in with a piece of big frontier metal cleaning alloy wool and scrubbing it but im not sure how well it works myself. Im going to try it with a rifle that has really strong rifling but some rust and pitting. Other than that just scrubbing with a bronze brush untill it comes out somewhat clean seems to work ok. If the rust is only on the end of the bore maybe you could just put a dab of rust remover on that spot?
Big Frontier is good stuff......... be well.
Rust on a firearm either external or internal is never a good thing to leave. Depending on your environment, such as the tropics, the inside of the barrel will continue to rust until its plugged, as the US marines found out in WW2 before chrome plating was used.
A product called Naval Jelly works quite good for removing rust. Follow the directions. Once the rust is removed, a product called CorrosionX will keep it from returning.
Keep the naval jelly off the blueing. It will remove it as well.
@@828enigma6 Hmmmm is Naval Jelly a safer way of removing bluing prior to a full rebluing?
Never dull at your local automotive store or big box store will shine your dark bore.
Just use it like a patch. It is amazing the differance it made on my mosin. I found out
how this product worked from a site that sold mosin nagant scope mounts. It also works
great on smoothing out ak 47 actions as well. I now can cycle my action with one finger.
The biggest problem with pitted bores in my experience is that they foul really quickly, a lot of them will fire two or three good groups but then accuracy go's down the toilet after that. .
Thanks for your video. The Birchwood Casey worked on my rusty 1903 Springfield.
Being a machinist a good question for you would be- How does one determine if a barrel is straight?Keep up the good work!
How about move the table closer to the window for better light?
When I get a rifle that has a dark bore I run a brush soaked in oil through it then a couple patches.
If it is still dark I don't worry about it till I shoot it. I have found out that many guns with bad bores will still shoot well, guess what I am saying is not to worry or write a gun off to you shoot it.
I think it is possible to make a dark bore gun worse by over cleaning it trying to make the bore bright.
+Deadhorse1 Why?
+Deadhorse1 Totally agree with U .
I use windex with ammonia to clean mine. For rust blued guns you must boil to convert then card.
What kind of penetrating oil did you use on your Carcano Rifle
kroil oil
What type of penetrating oil did you use on the Carcano. Thanks
Plug the crown with plastine/clay, pour karosene down the breach until full, prop up against the wall for a few days, pour it out run a couple patches thru and done... way way easier than this process.
It's a bolt gun why are you cleaning it from the muzzle?
i've heard people leave dowell in the barrel while they're stowed to prevent rust.I've yet to try it.
I am not trying to be overly contentious, but warm water does not neutralize the salts created by corrosive primers. Metal is porous. And water leaves some amount of the salts behind. Boiling water helps. And using oil to protect the bore helps. But the salts impregnated in the metal are very difficult to completely remove. It is not as simple as you say.
+kotzting Hot soapy water with a hot water rinse repeated and scrubbed many times is really the only way to totally get rid of corrosive salts. I do this first before doing any regular cleaning when corrosive primers are involved.
Have you tried bore lapping with lapping compound? I bought some to try on a dark bore. I want to try your method first, if still bad, I plan on trying bore (fire) lapping.
you gave a lot of useful information, thanks!
No! He gave a lot of wrong information! look he’s even clean it from the wrong end. how can he have right information if he’s even doing it wrong
Maybe you can answer a question I have about my mosin nagant barrel. When looking down the bore there seems to be a line or seam that runs straight down the lenght of the barrel. Is that normal? Thanks Alot, John
Shouldn't you be running that brush thru the chamber end since you took the bolt out instead of the muzzle end ? that poor crown.
What would you recommend to remove a lot of leading in a 1873 Springfield trapdoor? I just bought it and its packed what solvent would be best for the type of fouling it has(black powder +lead)
Would it have killed you to turn on a light before filming???
A bore cleaner for corrosive primers is only good for a bore that isn't rusted yet. As he mentioned, the old military way was to use a bucket of warm soapy water and the old style long wooden cleaning rod. The muzzle was placed in the water and the cleaning rod pumped up and down to wash out the acidic residue. The bore was then dried with a couple dry patches then oiled. A couple days later, a light coating of grease was applied with a greased cleaning patch(great for Black powder as well). Valve grinding compound(600 grit) rubbed into the cleaning patch will make things shine. I have never had to use more than two. There is process called 'fire polishing' where it is applied to the bullet but this makes it necessary to clean out the powder residue every time (two steps forward, one back). I have found that this works better than fine steel wool in the cleaning jag.
Bought an Aero Precision barrel about 4 months ago. Opened it up, made sure everything looked ok, packed it back up. Finally put a rifle together with it last week, look down the bore, and its got a coat of rust through most of the barrel. What should I do? Is this even normal for a new barrel? I didn't even think about lubing it up when I got it, thought every barrel came greased up from the factory. Never had a round fired through it.
what you can try is get some Kroil oil it is a pentrating oil, or Ballistol it is thicker, both of these products are very good for removing rust. pour a small amount down the bore then run a brass brush through the bore,
Thanks. I think I'm just going to leave it and try to send the barrel back to Aero. The fact that the barrel never left the packaging and still rusted in 4 months, the fact that my copper brushes are bringing out way too many metal shavings just doesn't sit right with me. What if I was a supplier or dealer just trying to keep parts stocked? Would I have to keep a bucket of motor oil on standby just to throw all their parts in when they arrive?
Hit the bore with someone Jimistol. I have a vid on how to make it. It's basically Ballistol with a neutralizer added.
I was going to try and use electrolysis to clean the rust from my Mosin bore... it works great for de rusting old tools and old bike / car parts, I don't see how it wont work for a rifle bore..as long as you DO NOT put anything made os Stainless Steel into the tank, it should work well!
You do it? Results? @hdrjunkie
@@tac2oo7 no I didn’t… while using it to restore a couple old vises I found out that once you take the parts out of the solution they “flash” rust in no time if you don’t oil them and keep them oiled or painted. It would work though, it does a great job removing rust but you have to really stay on top of the parts afterwards.
Or, you could hire an excellent machinist to fit a NEW barrel on. To keep some of the collector value and shoot it... A NEW barrel cut to the original profile...could be fitted on...
a NEW barrel cost lots of MONEY
Good information i can use sometime. Your a military gun collector so could you or anybody teading this tell me of a gunsmith near Ky that could re barrel a lee enfield? The 303 cal shoots good but its a nightmare to reload. The cases dont last long enuff to make it cheaper to reload Thanks.
357bullfrog neck sizing die by RCBS Lee Enfield are super hard on brass life
pretty slick
what is the stuff called
This video is so wrong with information that will always wreck any firearm.
he doesn't even know what end to clean from
Dag Glock how would it screw up the firearm?
First guy to clean gun from the muzzle end with steel wool. Lord have mercy
wd-40 ? really ? wow never there are better options like hoppe's 9 for final barrel conditioning
This could have been 45 seconds.
I get better accuracy from my pistol
Wrong Wrong Wrong all wrong OMG!!!!!
you talk tho much