Back in the 1980's, when surplus 762x39 had corrosive primers, water cleaning my AK was the standard....but I spent several minutes with my air compressor drying it. Then sprayed it with RemOil, or Tri-Flow. Dot 3 Brake Fluid will break down bore rust. I saved an old Marlin Goose Gun by putting rubber cork in the muzzle, and filled the bore with brake fluid, and let stand in the corner a year and a half. Rust swabbed out.
Compared to my R700 barrel, this barrel looks amazing. I bought the R700 used, and it still shoots 0.8 MOA at 800 yards. Im always amazed at how well a gun will shoot even with "issues" inside a barrel. We've been taught that a barrel has to be perfect for a rifle to be accurate and that's simply not true. All depends on twist rate, jump off the lands, bullet selection, powder, primer, and 20 other things that havent got a thing to do with the barrel perfection. Great video! Thank you for sharing all this wonderful info and experience with us. I am quite jealous of all the gunsmithing tools you own though. Even though I am an amateur gunsmith, I still feel I need all the best tools.
Funny comment I feel the same ain’t even got my first deer yet 8,000$ in on equipment so far for an airgun channel and still about a year out bc of wanting the best stuff lol
An important thing to know about Evapo-Rust is that the parts should be COMPLETELY submerged. If not, you will have etching at the air/fluid interface.
Help please. I have a civil war gun with a significant case of rust inside the bore. I can’t submerge the barrel as that would allow the Evaporust to attack the “patina” on the outside that I don’t want to effect. I was going to remove the barrel from the stock and then fill the barrel with Evaporust and stand it in the corner and let it sit overnight. I’m concerned that I will get etching as you mention at the level of the Evaporust near the muzzle even if I completely fill it?
@@Whitpusmc, the etching happens as a line along where the Evapo-Rust meets the air. It's a thin line, not a wide band. If the barrel is completely filled, it could leave a line right at the crown. Sounds as if you have to choose the patina or try a different method of cleaning the barrel. BTW, I don't think one night of soaking would do much for "significant" rust. It also sounds fiddly to do it that way.
@@ShawnD1027 Well it was what was recommended by a gunsmith with familiarity with BP guns. What about Evaporust gel? The directions (yes I read them) say to leave on for an hour or two them neutralize with water. I was thinking about using the gel up to the very crown and being able to better control the line where the rust removal ends. I was also intending to try for a shorter period of time say a half hour and judge the effects and repeat in half hour increments to better get just the effect desired. The lands and grooves are visible but have a thin layer of rust that needs to be removed.
@@Whitpusmc, I have no experience with the gel. My reply was based on my experience with moderate rust and your initial description of "significant case of rust." Now you're saying "thin layer of rust," so maybe a shorter duration would work. Sorry I can't be of any more help.
that is definitely the color of fresh rust, the iron hydroxide means it is still reacting so a good clean of that surface layer was the perfect fix. the hardcore navy people can read rust better than me but that is one thing that stuck with me when i had a conversation with some experienced seamen
Holy crap I did not expect that barrel to be that clean from cleaning that that is some thorough work. Seems like that rust remover works pretty well too.
I always liked running an oil soaked mop through my barrels after cleaning. Something I picked up from my dad years ago. Especially if going into storage. Just don't go crazy. A patch to clear out excess is a good idea.
If you use heavy duty gloves and boiling water it A. Opens up the pours in the metal more getting more gunk out and B. It's hot enough to evaporate cuz the metal is so hot. You still oil it when done.
If you "REALLY" want to clean an AR platform down to bare metal and cleaner than it's ever been just use boiling water. Take the rifle apart and submerge in boiling water. Using coat hangers to create hooks to hang the parts on we would submerge the rifle parts in a metal trash can with a submerging heater to boil the water. A raging vigorous boil is best. When the parts come out of the boiling water they are so hot they dry themselves in just a few moments. Then we dipped all the parts in CLP and wiped them down. Easy peasy. It's amazing what boiling hot water will clean.
Cleaned my HK with a garden hose after a sandy excercise. I snaked it to remove the water but borecam still showed some drops. It rusted a little but I shot it clean.
At least the corrosion wasn't real deep into the bore, but whoever didn't at least run a patch with some oil on it before shipping needs to have their knuckles cracked with a ruler as a reminder to not do stupid things.
Wow! That is amazing. Great save on the barrel. Thank you for the great content. Always love your videos. Great teachers create great minds. You mu friend are a great teacher. Be safe.
With all due respect, this does not look like rust to me. This looks like gunk on top of the surface of the inside of the bore. The bore also looks chrome-lined (which I would expect for a high-quality AR barrel) which should prevent rusting.
What is it about brass cleaning brushes that you don't like? That's what we used alot during basic training in the Army. Not being a jerk, just asking.
I picked up some Evaporust today and tried out on some T wrenchs, WOW its good stuff so far. I will be able to reblack them wiht a black oxide kit I got and they will look new.
How did the evaporust not eat away at the outside finish ?? 🤔 as evaporust will remove all finishes as well I’ve seen. Maybe I’m wrong and missed something lol
Since this needs to be soaked for 12 hours, how would you recommend some very light rust in a model 70? I’ve tried nylon brush, bore tech eliminator, and slip 2000 oil.
Cool to hear somebody else say you can clean a gun with water. I've used soap and water many a times to clean a gun without issue. An old Cuban guy taught me that you could and just told me to make sure and gently heat it for a short time to drive out any moisture to prevent rust and then lube it. So even now I still wash them in hot soapy water and rinse with hot water and then sometimes chuck them in the oven on low heat (the ones that I can fit in there) minus the plastic stuff. Never had any rust issues at all. Still will use solvents once in awhile but prefer the hot water as it's cheaper that way.
There is a whole industry of part cleaning machines and you'll always find water+detergent at some stage. It's not like carbon steel falls apart if it's soaked in water immediately. If they dry completely and oiled afterwards it's just like it was cleaned in the factory.
@School of the American Rifle This is probably a non-issue overly nit picky thing, but if you were trying to build the best barrel possible, would you try to drill the gas port directly through a land or a groove so it flow gas more evenly? I know thats not typically considered, but if you had a blank and could clock the gas port to be specifically where you want it, would that be advantageous, even if only a small amount?
An hour or so is most I ever left ammonia bore cleaners in. There are some very good non-ammonia copper cleaning cleaners out there that you can leave in any length of time. i use Boretech but there are others.
rinse with water, scrub with nylon. Evaporust pulls the oxidation off the surface and suspends it in a black, mucus like substance. You need to get all that shit off before you start attacking fouling.
Its midnight and I have to get up early to beat rush for reloading supplies!! So I am so mad at you for this addictive content you are forcing me to watch!! BTW my PSA 300BLK pistol will arrive at my FFL this week. Hope it shoots as well as my Wilson Combat? Who knows
Never used that product, looks like it works really good. I have never tried this unless it was a stainless anything, clr does a great job, you can get it at the grocery store and I do use it to remove carbon out of all my barrels. Any feedback you got is welcomed and really appreciated! Thanks for the info have a good weekend!
What do you recommend? I’m removing 3 rocksetted warcomps soon. I have slip2000 ewl and gun lube. Lucas clp. Hoppes #9 and bore cleaner. Wipe out foaming bore cleaner.. I was planning on just using the wipe out because it says “wipe out contains a powerful anti-corrosive that prevents rust” you think that would be good?
I think the best penetrating lube going is kroil or silikroil for starters after methanol rinse to flash off H2O then use whatever lube you like , at least you know the water is gone and the kroil will go into the pores of the metal .
@@Captainpaulbtyhtr You're wasting your time. The water is not penetrating the threads of your muzzle device, and it's certainly not reaching the rocksett to begin breaking the adhesive. A 3-4 foot breaker bar is all you need. MAYBE torch the muzzle device to flex the material a bit before but it really doesn't matter much. Now after you remove your muzzle device, if you'd like to remove the rocksett, water and a brush can be used. But it doesn't have to be boiling.
I’ve had success boiling for 15 minutes , then warming with propane a bit ( not much ) then dipping the muzzle device in cold water , then wrench , never used a wrench longer than 12”
With what would the rust react with besides more oxygen if the temperature is high enough? You need some acid. Rust removal with 80% phosphoric acid works well, 1:1 with water and wait 48 hours. Rinse off thoroughly and dry, followed with oil or coatings.
Long time rifle competitor here. I had wanted a bore scope for years but a combination of several of my friends having scopes I could borrow and the $1000+ price at the time for a "cheap" one kept me from "pulling the trigger". A couple of years ago, I bought a digital borescope from Teslong for about $75 and never looked back. It has a USB out put. The optical quality is better than the pure optical ones I used 20 years ago.
Thanks for the video!! I would like to see a video a video comparison with a similar barrel that had 30 rounds fired through it to blow out the corrosion Thanks again you do really great work I've learned a ton
It will help, but if the chrome lining has been damaged or has some thin spots you can have things rust through it. See old cars with chrome bumpers for an example.
Hope a few folks can maximize the life spans of their barrels thanks to this info. Great topic & nice work! 👍 *(Anyone who 👎 this video is a douchebag! 👈😉)
what borescope camera are you using? I also have a hawkeye borescope but I find their accessories prices way out of line with the quality they give you. FYI if you have the normal hawkeye flashlight (minimag light source) you can get a Maglite 226-Lumen LED Flashlight IP2PLPH and use the same top (its equivalent to their "LED" light). big upgrade small price.
damn man it takes some unbelievable level of abuse to do that to any barrel but especially an FN barrel, wow, if you let an FM barrel get that bad you don’t deserve to own firearms
@@tactical-bucket I have others configured the same way with Colt Upper & Barrel with codes. They were corroded too but the fn barrel was the most severe.
The value of these videos cannot be overstated. Thanks for all you do, Chad!
Back in the 1980's, when surplus 762x39 had corrosive primers, water cleaning my AK was the standard....but I spent several minutes with my air compressor drying it. Then sprayed it with RemOil, or Tri-Flow.
Dot 3 Brake Fluid will break down bore rust. I saved an old Marlin Goose Gun by putting rubber cork in the muzzle, and filled the bore with brake fluid, and let stand in the corner a year and a half. Rust swabbed out.
Thanks for the tip on the Brake Fluid!
@@5jjt well, I use Windex to clean the bore, but trying to keep an SVT-40 running sometimes takes interesting approaches.
Compared to my R700 barrel, this barrel looks amazing. I bought the R700 used, and it still shoots 0.8 MOA at 800 yards. Im always amazed at how well a gun will shoot even with "issues" inside a barrel. We've been taught that a barrel has to be perfect for a rifle to be accurate and that's simply not true. All depends on twist rate, jump off the lands, bullet selection, powder, primer, and 20 other things that havent got a thing to do with the barrel perfection. Great video! Thank you for sharing all this wonderful info and experience with us. I am quite jealous of all the gunsmithing tools you own though. Even though I am an amateur gunsmith, I still feel I need all the best tools.
Funny comment I feel the same ain’t even got my first deer yet 8,000$ in on equipment so far for an airgun channel and still about a year out bc of wanting the best stuff lol
An important thing to know about Evapo-Rust is that the parts should be COMPLETELY submerged. If not, you will have etching at the air/fluid interface.
Wow! Thank you for that warning.
Help please. I have a civil war gun with a significant case of rust inside the bore. I can’t submerge the barrel as that would allow the Evaporust to attack the “patina” on the outside that I don’t want to effect. I was going to remove the barrel from the stock and then fill the barrel with Evaporust and stand it in the corner and let it sit overnight. I’m concerned that I will get etching as you mention at the level of the Evaporust near the muzzle even if I completely fill it?
@@Whitpusmc, the etching happens as a line along where the Evapo-Rust meets the air. It's a thin line, not a wide band. If the barrel is completely filled, it could leave a line right at the crown. Sounds as if you have to choose the patina or try a different method of cleaning the barrel. BTW, I don't think one night of soaking would do much for "significant" rust. It also sounds fiddly to do it that way.
@@ShawnD1027 Well it was what was recommended by a gunsmith with familiarity with BP guns. What about Evaporust gel? The directions (yes I read them) say to leave on for an hour or two them neutralize with water. I was thinking about using the gel up to the very crown and being able to better control the line where the rust removal ends. I was also intending to try for a shorter period of time say a half hour and judge the effects and repeat in half hour increments to better get just the effect desired. The lands and grooves are visible but have a thin layer of rust that needs to be removed.
@@Whitpusmc, I have no experience with the gel. My reply was based on my experience with moderate rust and your initial description of "significant case of rust." Now you're saying "thin layer of rust," so maybe a shorter duration would work. Sorry I can't be of any more help.
that is definitely the color of fresh rust, the iron hydroxide means it is still reacting so a good clean of that surface layer was the perfect fix. the hardcore navy people can read rust better than me but that is one thing that stuck with me when i had a conversation with some experienced seamen
Holy crap I did not expect that barrel to be that clean from cleaning that that is some thorough work. Seems like that rust remover works pretty well too.
Chad is my hero and deserves all the exposure.
I always liked running an oil soaked mop through my barrels after cleaning. Something I picked up from my dad years ago. Especially if going into storage. Just don't go crazy. A patch to clear out excess is a good idea.
I had times where I was in rush after cleaning with water I spray it down WD-40.. I know I hear gun snobs crying 😂
Chad - my grandfather taught me to leave a very thin coat of oil in a barrel going into storage.
@@hondaatcfreak420 Hell I hit it with any basic spray oil, usually rem oil, then run a bore snake through it. If I run a patch, I use Mobil-1.
If you use heavy duty gloves and boiling water it A. Opens up the pours in the metal more getting more gunk out and B. It's hot enough to evaporate cuz the metal is so hot. You still oil it when done.
I bought some of this product because of your previous video. This stuff is great for many purposes around the house too.
If you "REALLY" want to clean an AR platform down to bare metal and cleaner than it's ever been just use boiling water. Take the rifle apart and submerge in boiling water. Using coat hangers to create hooks to hang the parts on we would submerge the rifle parts in a metal trash can with a submerging heater to boil the water. A raging vigorous boil is best. When the parts come out of the boiling water they are so hot they dry themselves in just a few moments. Then we dipped all the parts in CLP and wiped them down. Easy peasy. It's amazing what boiling hot water will clean.
I’ve learned so much from this channel!!
Ditto
Same here! I see alot of folks sending hate in the comments but I love this channel
Cleaned my HK with a garden hose after a sandy excercise. I snaked it to remove the water but borecam still showed some drops. It rusted a little but I shot it clean.
At least the corrosion wasn't real deep into the bore, but whoever didn't at least run a patch with some oil on it before shipping needs to have their knuckles cracked with a ruler as a reminder to not do stupid things.
Wow! That is amazing. Great save on the barrel. Thank you for the great content. Always love your videos. Great teachers create great minds. You mu friend are a great teacher. Be safe.
With all due respect, this does not look like rust to me. This looks like gunk on top of the surface of the inside of the bore. The bore also looks chrome-lined (which I would expect for a high-quality AR barrel) which should prevent rusting.
Wow! What a difference; I did not expect it would work that well.
What is it about brass cleaning brushes that you don't like? That's what we used alot during basic training in the Army. Not being a jerk, just asking.
Evaporust will remove bluing ! So just fyi on other guns
I thought chrome lining prevents corrosion very well. All this just from some water?
Wow I would have thought that barrel couldn't be saved. Amazing
Very impressive .... Love this channel.
I picked up some Evaporust today and tried out on some T wrenchs, WOW its good stuff so far. I will be able to reblack them wiht a black oxide kit I got and they will look new.
Thank you for your time making video's.
What would be a good gun oil for lubrication and rust prevention?
Wow, that was some gnarly rust!
How did the evaporust not eat away at the outside finish ?? 🤔 as evaporust will remove all finishes as well I’ve seen. Maybe I’m wrong and missed something lol
If you ever shot black powder you know all about cleaning guns with water!! The water causes LOTS less corrosion than the black powder does.
Since this needs to be soaked for 12 hours, how would you recommend some very light rust in a model 70? I’ve tried nylon brush, bore tech eliminator, and slip 2000 oil.
Cool to hear somebody else say you can clean a gun with water. I've used soap and water many a times to clean a gun without issue. An old Cuban guy taught me that you could and just told me to make sure and gently heat it for a short time to drive out any moisture to prevent rust and then lube it. So even now I still wash them in hot soapy water and rinse with hot water and then sometimes chuck them in the oven on low heat (the ones that I can fit in there) minus the plastic stuff. Never had any rust issues at all. Still will use solvents once in awhile but prefer the hot water as it's cheaper that way.
That's pretty much what folks do after shooting corrosive ammo. Just hose it down and dry it off then lube.
There is a whole industry of part cleaning machines and you'll always find water+detergent at some stage. It's not like carbon steel falls apart if it's soaked in water immediately. If they dry completely and oiled afterwards it's just like it was cleaned in the factory.
Done for both corrosive ammo and black powder.
Done for both corrosive ammo and black powder.
Was that a chrome-lined barrel?
@School of the American Rifle This is probably a non-issue overly nit picky thing, but if you were trying to build the best barrel possible, would you try to drill the gas port directly through a land or a groove so it flow gas more evenly? I know thats not typically considered, but if you had a blank and could clock the gas port to be specifically where you want it, would that be advantageous, even if only a small amount?
Nice clean up👍
Really like these videos!
How long should we leave the ammonium hydroxide to work before start doing no good to barrel?. Thank you and have a good weekend.
An hour or so is most I ever left ammonia bore cleaners in. There are some very good non-ammonia copper cleaning cleaners out there that you can leave in any length of time. i use Boretech but there are others.
Hey Chad is there anything you recommend doing in between the evaporust and the wipe out for cleaner?
rinse with water, scrub with nylon. Evaporust pulls the oxidation off the surface and suspends it in a black, mucus like substance. You need to get all that shit off before you start attacking fouling.
When I was in the military I had a armorer who would soak his parts in diesel to get rid of carbon.
Its midnight and I have to get up early to beat rush for reloading supplies!! So I am so mad at you for this addictive content you are forcing me to watch!! BTW my PSA 300BLK pistol will arrive at my FFL this week. Hope it shoots as well as my Wilson Combat? Who knows
I am a huge fan of Wipeout also, no smells and that is win for the wife and I.
Thanks for the knowledge, and the paranoia
My flintlock barrel isn’t looking great so I think I’m going to try this trick on that barrel
Never used that product, looks like it works really good. I have never tried this unless it was a stainless anything, clr does a great job, you can get it at the grocery store and I do use it to remove carbon out of all my barrels. Any feedback you got is welcomed and really appreciated! Thanks for the info have a good weekend!
Great video!!! Any recommendation for a bore scope similar to yours for rifle length or for 24” for an M1?
teslong rigid 26"
Will this work on a nitrated barrel?
Wow that evaporust works wonders.
I thought chrome isn’t supposed to corrode?
Rubbing alcohol works well for dehydration.
That rust did not happen overnight, that took quite a while.
@InstructorChad was the FN barrel chrome-lined?
Damn from night to day huh, was this chrome lined or no? Great video nonetheless
Yes. Chrome Lined.
@@SchooloftheAmericanRifle thank you
After boiling end of barrel in water to defeat Rocksett I could see that happening if you forget to protect with your choice of product.
What do you recommend? I’m removing 3 rocksetted warcomps soon. I have slip2000 ewl and gun lube. Lucas clp. Hoppes #9 and bore cleaner. Wipe out foaming bore cleaner.. I was planning on just using the wipe out because it says “wipe out contains a powerful anti-corrosive that prevents rust” you think that would be good?
I think the best penetrating lube going is kroil or silikroil for starters after methanol rinse to flash off H2O then use whatever lube you like , at least you know the water is gone and the kroil will go into the pores of the metal .
@@Captainpaulbtyhtr You're wasting your time. The water is not penetrating the threads of your muzzle device, and it's certainly not reaching the rocksett to begin breaking the adhesive. A 3-4 foot breaker bar is all you need. MAYBE torch the muzzle device to flex the material a bit before but it really doesn't matter much. Now after you remove your muzzle device, if you'd like to remove the rocksett, water and a brush can be used. But it doesn't have to be boiling.
I’ve had success boiling for 15 minutes , then warming with propane a bit ( not much ) then dipping the muzzle device in cold water , then wrench , never used a wrench longer than 12”
Would boiling the barrel in water cleaned it as well? Maybe you could try it with the second barrel.
With what would the rust react with besides more oxygen if the temperature is high enough? You need some acid. Rust removal with 80% phosphoric acid works well, 1:1 with water and wait 48 hours. Rinse off thoroughly and dry, followed with oil or coatings.
What do you use for a bore scope? What would you recommend getting for a bore scope , just for an average guys for his own rifles?
Long time rifle competitor here. I had wanted a bore scope for years but a combination of several of my friends having scopes I could borrow and the $1000+ price at the time for a "cheap" one kept me from "pulling the trigger". A couple of years ago, I bought a digital borescope from Teslong for about $75 and never looked back. It has a USB out put. The optical quality is better than the pure optical ones I used 20 years ago.
Thanks for the video!!
I would like to see a video a video comparison with a similar barrel that had 30 rounds fired through it to blow out the corrosion
Thanks again you do really great work I've learned a ton
Gunk caburator cleaner would be good for the carbon removal.
I only clean black powder with water, in the bathtub
If water was so good at cleaning barrels they'd sell it in bottles!😂😂😂
I clean my muzzle loaders with soap and water. I never have had any problems.
Great information
I would have thought that the chrome lining would have protected it.
It will help, but if the chrome lining has been damaged or has some thin spots you can have things rust through it. See old cars with chrome bumpers for an example.
@@ScottKenny1978 good point
FN Chrome lining is also supposed to be thick. Barrel must be well used.
@@ScottKenny1978 would qpq nitride resist corrosion better that chrome lining in this type of situation.
Excellent
If you got rush after you used water spray down with WD-40
Going to have to try that Evaporust on a couple of my guns. Looks like very good stuff. Thanks and great job onthat bore.
Evaporust is incredible. Don't leave things in it too long, or they'll get a nice blue layer of oxide... which can be helpful sometimes as well!
Hope a few folks can maximize the life spans of their barrels thanks to this info. Great topic & nice work! 👍 *(Anyone who 👎 this video is a douchebag! 👈😉)
Perhaps I missed it, but was this a chrome lined barrel?
Yes.
Clr works great too
Evaporust rust removal effectiveness: 9/10.. CLR rust removal effectiveness: 2/10.
I use ballistol to clean + the secret (sriracha) sauce, I don't think any of my barrels have ever been oil free, lol!
Kinda surprised at how rough the finish is on chamber ream is for a 300 dollar barrel
Looks like a urgi upper, but with an FN barrel. Interesting…
very interesting...
its a psa receiver
Wonder how a non chrome lined barrel would've faired.
what borescope camera are you using? I also have a hawkeye borescope but I find their accessories prices way out of line with the quality they give you. FYI if you have the normal hawkeye flashlight (minimag light source) you can get a Maglite 226-Lumen LED Flashlight IP2PLPH and use the same top (its equivalent to their "LED" light). big upgrade small price.
WOW...great info!
Why not use a brass brush? Chrome lining?
Chad doesn't recommend using abrasives
Was this barrel chrome lined? Whe. You said it was FN I figured it was one of their chrome lined ones.
Yep. Chrome Lined
Why you don’t clean your firearms with water.
Another great Video.
Good stuff
damn man it takes some unbelievable level of abuse to do that to any barrel but especially an FN barrel, wow, if you let an FM barrel get that bad you don’t deserve to own firearms
YOU DON'T SAY HOW YOU FLUSHED OUT THE EVAPO RUST
At this point if he shot the rifle a little he'd probably clear out the rest of some of the corrosion
outstanding......
That Evaporust is great stuff. It will even eat clean any galvanized parts. (frame rest on lanterns, whoops)
That 4 prong tho
Big difference!
🇺🇸 Awesome to see.
A FNC...... that's a crime in it's self...🤨
I think Ballistol would work well for this
Which one?
This kind of throws a monkey wrench in the argument for those that say chrome lined barrels are far superior to melonite barrels, huh?
Wow
Blaaawwww... nasty.
It needed some soratcha sauce
Woot woot, first one here
Hmm...10.3 with FN CHF and 4 prong SF FH ....
I'm not following.
@@SchooloftheAmericanRifle I'm curious where this came from, I feel like I may know. Carry on though fine sir! Great content as always
@@SchooloftheAmericanRifle Guys with patches on their uniform, government issue.
Calm down bro, it's a PSA receiver.
@@tactical-bucket I have others configured the same way with Colt Upper & Barrel with codes. They were corroded too but the fn barrel was the most severe.
Wow.