I had replaced few of these and learned few tricks. It's easier to disconnect the steering rack from the subframe than disconnect the steering column from the rack. Before putting up the oil pan, use couple zip ties to tie the gasket to the pan so it does not move around. You can cut them off after hand started couple of bolts. Do not use the old bolts; use new bolts. Aluminum bolts after been stretched, they break easily. Since the subframe dropped, if you haven't done so, it's the best time to replace the engine mounts and water pump / thermostat. From experience, engine mounts and water pump likely to go bad before 100k miles. For xdrive car, it requires to remove two front axles and front differential. It's also the best time to replace two O-rings and two seals.
Here’s a great DIY for doing the oil pan gasket on an E90 328xi. Slightly different than N54 335xi but it covers axle removal etc. and lists all the parts to buy. I’m in the middle of the job myself on and doing lots of maintenance and mods while the subframe is down: www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1211290
Geesus, that’s a lot of work just for an oil pan. I’m dreading this. I have oil spots on the floor. I hope it’s just the oil pan gasket and not the rear main. Thanks for the awesome video!
Really nice work on your video. I/We did this job recently and built my own support using a 2X6 board as the main support. Short pieces of 2X6 in the fender slots on both sides. Notched the upright pieces on either end to secure the main support. Toe screw them together. Lag bolt through the tow hook into the wood. Worked great. You just gotta make sure it's all nice and tight. I'm older now and crawling around on the garage floor ain't as easy as it used to be. Now I get some of you youngsters to help with a steak dinner as payment. They learn and I get the job done a lot cheaper. I still have to get dirty some but I enjoy passing along some of my "Can Do" spirit so they aren't so intimidated by such jobs.
thanks bro, my water pump and oil pan gasket and oil housing gasket all went out at once. I’m definitely gonna use this video instead of paying for a shop.
SWEET! Save that money, friend. I get a huge sense of fulfillment from doing jobs myself, I think you'll find the same with this, even though it is time-consuming, this job isn't too hard!
My Brain: You just jack it up, remove maybe a plastic splash shield and the oil pan should be at the bottom and you just unbolt it, attach new one, right? BMW: Start by jacking the car up and remove the wheels of course.. because everything done on a BMW requires this. Then you'll need 6 different sized Torx bits, multiple special pullers and brackets, remove 8 parts, 3 sub assemblies and 1 sub frame... THEN the job begins.
@@TheBimmerBarn You wouldn't by chance have a video on servicing the N54 DCT transmission would you? I searched your vid's and didn't see one but worth asking. thanks
07 e92 335i and doing this job rn at 207,xxx miles, being a manual made it just a tad easier . Ill definitely use zips tie to secure gasket when installing.
Thanks for the help you provided with this video. The n55 has another trans coolant line hold down other than the 2 under the radiator to the left where it bends 90o. You guys who do this on the ground must have masochistic tendencies because it was a biotch doing it with a lift trying to manipulate the torque wrench while getting at the pan screws. Thanks again
You can hold the gasket on with electrical ties, three will do it, then when you have fitted the sump place a few bolts in without tightening them, then cut and remove the ties.
I just used this video as reference to change my gasket... I regret not taking it to the shop cuz that's life I'm never getting back lol. I'm kinda burnt working on my car tbh but I love driving it.
Buying one in the next couple of months. Brushing up on my knowledge of everything I’ll need to fix. Although this job looks tedious is doesn’t look especially difficult after dropping the subframe everything seems to be right in front of you
Maybe the motor moved when you lowed the subframe, but what I like to do is loosen the motor mount to make it easier to align with the subframe. Hope that helps, thanks for watching!
I updated the description with the OE part number, and an Amazon tow hook which should work the same. The engine support bar I got at Harbor Freight like you said. Good luck Valente! and thanks for watching :)
Sorry, I am in the middle of this now I have the oil pan off (hanging) but I don’t quite have enough clearence. Doing it on jack stands isn’t helping either. Lol maybe need a buddy to help finagle the sun frame while I try get pan out. But I just dropped steering linkage, didn’t seem give anymore clearence now I’m going o loosen control arm bolts.
Quick question: after replacing the oil pan gasket, are there any issues that may come After? I replaced my oil pan gasket three days ago but I noticed my steering wheel buttons are not working and there is a squeaky noise coming from the middle of the steering wheel. Also, the engine temperature warning light came out today? Any thoughts or suggestions Thank you in advance.
Engine temp light might be from a sensor you forgot to plug back in, but the steering stuff sounds like a steering angle sensor, common problem. Hope that helps!
@@TheBimmerBarn thank you so much for taking the time to respond. I read the problem with the steering wheel could be something with the clutch spring.
Subframe might be shaped a little differently, but all the same rules apply. Remove steering column bolt, engine mounts, steering lines, etc.. Good luck!
Thanks for this great video! I've got a 2011 335i with 77K miles. My valve cover gasket and oil pan gasket are leaking and I plan to replace both myself. Regarding the oil pan gasket job, what other items in the "while you're in there" category would you replace, given the age + mileage of my car? Motor + tranny mounts? Water pump? If I didn't go with BMW parts, what brand would you recommend for these parts? I see engine + tranny mount kits at FCP Euro for $200 to $300 and water pumps for around $400.
If you're shopping fcp, most all of the brands they sell are trustworthy. While you're in there, it's a good time to replace the motor mounts, and if you have the money, water pump or thermostat too. Otherwise, most other things on the bottom of the engine can be serviced on their own. Thanks for watching and good luck!
Im getting ready to do this too on my F30 N55, since we have an electric steering rack it might be pretty easy to just remove the thing completely so its out of the way. Thoughts?
@@rise_of_a_godhey, I know it’s a year later but do you have any advice for doing this on the n55? I’m about to try and tackle this job whenever the rest of these parts come in.
@@TheBimmerBarn much appreciated. I’m finding it to be easier than your instructions. Like the screws near the steering rack are not screws they are the plastic pop out things. I forget what they are called. The subframe has different mounting points. Transmission cooler lines are not in the way they are high on the radiator. Definitely engineering improvements.
You'll want to remove the belt (as if you were going to servicing it) before removing the power steering pulley. Reinstalling the belt is done by using the tensioner pulley and a t50 torx socket. Hope that helps!
Yep, need to do it eventually. Think I'll need to do the vcg first though. There are so many connections, bolts and shifted parts and assemblies that I'm not only going to bkmk and watch this and others, and research, but I'll be compiling lists of steps, do a punch in and separate punch out list with every procedure + torque value. I'd like to keep my car, I guess, so will be looking for all the normal wear parts I can, to R&R or else upgrade. Engine mounts, for instance, and probably subframe mounts. And I have a pronounced waste-gate rattle. Maybe it's time to go to upgraded twins? Catted-downpipes? Shoot, there's so much to do to bring my car back to spec or better, wish I had a lift! Jack + stands gets old. I'd even consider building a lift if the right design, within my skillset came along. 2007/e90/335i (*pre-lci/n54)
Nice tutorial ! Thank you :) Question : isn't it easier to unbolt the steering rack from the subframe ? Doing so, the steering lines and sterring colmun might all stay bolted. To keep in place the oil pan gasket, you can secure it with a couple of zip ties. Once some screws are installed, simply cut the ties ;)
Good question, if yoh leave the steering rack up like that, it makes it more difficult to maneuver the oil pan out. The more room you have, the better! Thanks for watching and leaving a comment Stephane 👍
I think it works when there is a channel and the surface is made for the rtv, otherwise, it's not a replacement for a flat rubber/metal gasket as intended from factory. Great question, I see it over-used sometimes and it can cause a leak.
@@TheBimmerBarn I guess my comment was more with putting the compound in addition to the stock gasket in a very thin layer. I suspect that the expansion and contracting of the aluminum parts over time is what contributes to the leaks coming back. I’m changing mine soon, so I’ll be the test case for this idea :)
Hello, I have a BMW 2009 335 i convertible and it is leaking oil from below the gasket on top of the engine. They are new, the oil is leaking from below and I need to change it. Can you help me to know what it is? Thanks.
hey im following your guide for my own n54, i also have the auto trans with the 3 E10 bolts that go into the pan. do you know what torque + angle they take?
I need to replace my Oil Pan Gasket. The width of the Engine Support bar from Harbor freight isn't long enough for my 09 - E60 - 535XI. I can't find any alternative support bar! I need one with a width of 64'' Has anyone else ran into this issue? Any Recommendations?
Super thorough and detailed! Thank you! Any tips if I want to fully remove the subframe? Are the control arms the only thing holding it up at that point?
I like to remove the 3 nuts holding each strut to the strut towers, which drops the whole front suspension assembly, but you can also remove the control arms and tie rods if you want to have just the subframe. Thanks for watching! 😊
Nowadays that job is not easy as dropping the oil pan. For the person wanting to keep his garage floor clean that's what it takes. This DIY vid is for the one who doesn't want to spend "beaucoup" moula at the service shop.
I've got a bmw repair shop near me that quoted me $800 for the job. That doesn't seem so bad compared to the dealer. But just knowing it's still all labor is a tough swallow.
@@TheFrenchPug There is so much - $800 is liveable, esp if they'd combine much of the labor and do some things exposed during this service. Swap belts, do all rubber hoses, trans fluid change, sevice trans solenoids, new trans pan, bolts and gaskets, R&R trans lines if needed, possible waste-gate or turbo service...what else at 90,000mi?
I had replaced few of these and learned few tricks. It's easier to disconnect the steering rack from the subframe than disconnect the steering column from the rack. Before putting up the oil pan, use couple zip ties to tie the gasket to the pan so it does not move around. You can cut them off after hand started couple of bolts. Do not use the old bolts; use new bolts. Aluminum bolts after been stretched, they break easily. Since the subframe dropped, if you haven't done so, it's the best time to replace the engine mounts and water pump / thermostat. From experience, engine mounts and water pump likely to go bad before 100k miles. For xdrive car, it requires to remove two front axles and front differential. It's also the best time to replace two O-rings and two seals.
Those are some good tips, thanks for sharing Glen!
I'm getting ready to do this on my 2007 335xi. Which O rings and seals are you talking about? Thanks!
@@willhikearizona two seals for two front axles. two o-rings for the front differential and the part that fastened to the oil pan on the right side.
Here’s a great DIY for doing the oil pan gasket on an E90 328xi. Slightly different than N54 335xi but it covers axle removal etc. and lists all the parts to buy. I’m in the middle of the job myself on and doing lots of maintenance and mods while the subframe is down: www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1211290
Geesus, that’s a lot of work just for an oil pan. I’m dreading this. I have oil spots on the floor. I hope it’s just the oil pan gasket and not the rear main. Thanks for the awesome video!
7 months later, what was the outcome? i'm looking at the same possible issue, either rear main seal, or back of the oil pan is leaking
Really nice work on your video. I/We did this job recently and built my own support using a 2X6 board as the main support. Short pieces of 2X6 in the fender slots on both sides. Notched the upright pieces on either end to secure the main support. Toe screw them together. Lag bolt through the tow hook into the wood. Worked great. You just gotta make sure it's all nice and tight. I'm older now and crawling around on the garage floor ain't as easy as it used to be. Now I get some of you youngsters to help with a steak dinner as payment. They learn and I get the job done a lot cheaper. I still have to get dirty some but I enjoy passing along some of my "Can Do" spirit so they aren't so intimidated by such jobs.
Great tutorial, adding the bolt head sizes to the video was a nice touch.
Thanks!
Wow the image quality of that video is amazing. Of course the content and skills are equally brilliant too. Congrats!
Watched the video 3 times, I think I'm ready to do this myself, thank you for the DIY guide!!
Oh man. Good luck. Let us know!
Did you do it?
thanks bro, my water pump and oil pan gasket and oil housing gasket all went out at once. I’m definitely gonna use this video instead of paying for a shop.
SWEET! Save that money, friend. I get a huge sense of fulfillment from doing jobs myself, I think you'll find the same with this, even though it is time-consuming, this job isn't too hard!
My Brain: You just jack it up, remove maybe a plastic splash shield and the oil pan should be at the bottom and you just unbolt it, attach new one, right?
BMW: Start by jacking the car up and remove the wheels of course.. because everything done on a BMW requires this. Then you'll need 6 different sized Torx bits, multiple special pullers and brackets, remove 8 parts, 3 sub assemblies and 1 sub frame... THEN the job begins.
Priceless detailed video, thank you for making it!
Best 335i OPG swap video on UA-cam!!! Thanks for posting.
Thanks Anthony ❤️
@@TheBimmerBarn You wouldn't by chance have a video on servicing the N54 DCT transmission would you? I searched your vid's and didn't see one but worth asking. thanks
@@anthonywheelus4845 Nope, we haven't had a 335is on the channel, YET! 😁
Awesome show 👏.. I had this done ✔ on my wife's 2010 535i at the dealer.
What was the cost for labor n part
Cuz im thinkin of doing it for my 09 335xi
@@anthonyjordan7847 if I remember correctly it was about $1400
You wild if you went to the dealer and paid $1400🤣
Dealer charges the most in labor. But if you're not in an area that has independent shops you have no choice besides DIY.
The Bimmer House is rockin'.
Is it really that hard to do this job as a beginner. I dont have a relationship with any good mechanics that wont rip me of on the labor.
07 e92 335i and doing this job rn at 207,xxx miles, being a manual made it just a tad easier . Ill definitely use zips tie to secure gasket when installing.
Thanks for the help you provided with this video. The n55 has another trans coolant line hold down other than the 2 under the radiator to the left where it bends 90o. You guys who do this on the ground must have masochistic tendencies because it was a biotch doing it with a lift trying to manipulate the torque wrench while getting at the pan screws.
Thanks again
You can hold the gasket on with electrical ties, three will do it, then when you have fitted the sump place a few bolts in without tightening them, then cut and remove the ties.
I love this idea! 💡Gonna have to use it next time
I just used this video as reference to change my gasket... I regret not taking it to the shop cuz that's life I'm never getting back lol. I'm kinda burnt working on my car tbh but I love driving it.
Time vs money is always going to be a trade-off, but at least you learned something and now you can say that you did it yourself proudly!
Man your work is priceless! Thanks so much . 😉
Thank you for watching :) Hope it helped you!
Would it not be easier to just take the engine out?
Also, would I be able to replace the twin turbos with this method?
Amazing how quick jacks make this do able but crappy 18” jacks it’s a bell of a job
are you going to replace the motor mounts? since you have everything torn apart would that qualify at a 'while you are in there' job?
It would be the perfect time, but I didn't notice them failing before, and they're pretty pricy
Going to be giving this a shot tomorrow morning and ill update how it goes, thanks for the guide! mines a manual but I imagine its virtually the same
great guide honestly, Id say this takes about 2 days going nice and slow or just 1 day speeding through it
Did connecting your shift linkage back go in easy or was it a pita
did the radiator and fan assy needs to be removed thanks
Where you able to figure out where the "3/8" labeled plastic piece you found in the oil pan came from?
i dont hace any clue but i guess its magnet to collect any metal in oil?
AMAZING CONTENT DUDE! Wow!
Great video and keep up the good work!
Man I am way way past due my pan is leaking pretty nicely.. is this possible on jack stands? Will I have enough clearance for everything?
I got to do this job so bad but just not confident doing in jack stands don’t think I’ll get high enough clearance
Buying one in the next couple of months. Brushing up on my knowledge of everything I’ll need to fix. Although this job looks tedious is doesn’t look especially difficult after dropping the subframe everything seems to be right in front of you
Can you do this with an e60 like the under the car to take engine mounts apart from subframe?
5:12 I don't care what anyone says, that's skill lmao.
when putting on the subframe , how did you get the motor mount bolts to like up? the three bolts for the frame line up but the engine mounts dont
Maybe the motor moved when you lowed the subframe, but what I like to do is loosen the motor mount to make it easier to align with the subframe. Hope that helps, thanks for watching!
5:38 what portable life do you use?
Neiko hood light, video review on my channel!
Nice work
Would you happen to have a link for the tow hook
and the engine support bar looks like the ones for sale at harborfreight correct
Thanks
I updated the description with the OE part number, and an Amazon tow hook which should work the same. The engine support bar I got at Harbor Freight like you said. Good luck Valente! and thanks for watching :)
@@TheBimmerBarn Thank you, really appreciate it
Does the control arm clip that covers one of the 18mm bolts just pop off?
Sorry, I am in the middle of this now I have the oil pan off (hanging) but I don’t quite have enough clearence. Doing it on jack stands isn’t helping either. Lol maybe need a buddy to help finagle the sun frame while I try get pan out. But I just dropped steering linkage, didn’t seem give anymore clearence now I’m going o loosen control arm bolts.
You don’t need to put anything on the gasket sealer for the oil pan?
Quick question: after replacing the oil pan gasket, are there any issues that may come After? I replaced my oil pan gasket three days ago but I noticed my steering wheel buttons are not working and there is a squeaky noise coming from the middle of the steering wheel. Also, the engine temperature warning light came out today? Any thoughts or suggestions
Thank you in advance.
Engine temp light might be from a sensor you forgot to plug back in, but the steering stuff sounds like a steering angle sensor, common problem. Hope that helps!
@@TheBimmerBarn thank you so much for taking the time to respond. I read the problem with the steering wheel could be something with the clutch spring.
hello there
I want to replace the oil pan gasket on 2011 740i n54 is there anything different than what you have done?
Subframe might be shaped a little differently, but all the same rules apply. Remove steering column bolt, engine mounts, steering lines, etc.. Good luck!
great video bro very helpful im subin
Appreciate it! ❤
Thanks for this great video! I've got a 2011 335i with 77K miles. My valve cover gasket and oil pan gasket are leaking and I plan to replace both myself. Regarding the oil pan gasket job, what other items in the "while you're in there" category would you replace, given the age + mileage of my car? Motor + tranny mounts? Water pump? If I didn't go with BMW parts, what brand would you recommend for these parts? I see engine + tranny mount kits at FCP Euro for $200 to $300 and water pumps for around $400.
If you're shopping fcp, most all of the brands they sell are trustworthy. While you're in there, it's a good time to replace the motor mounts, and if you have the money, water pump or thermostat too. Otherwise, most other things on the bottom of the engine can be serviced on their own. Thanks for watching and good luck!
Is it really necessary to remove the wheels for this process?
Yes because the control arms need to come off
is this a similar process (or same) as the N55?
Would there be any difference to a n55 f30 ? Or you think it should be similar to get the oil pan out ?
Im getting ready to do this too on my F30 N55, since we have an electric steering rack it might be pretty easy to just remove the thing completely so its out of the way. Thoughts?
@@Sophisto13 tbh idk yet im about to do this also on my f30 n55 this week ill put any tricks if i see any
@@rise_of_a_godhey, I know it’s a year later but do you have any advice for doing this on the n55? I’m about to try and tackle this job whenever the rest of these parts come in.
Any difference doing this to an automatic F30 with an N55?
No huge differences, besides F30 has electric steering, so handle that accordingly. No pump or reservoir to worry about.
@@TheBimmerBarn much appreciated. I’m finding it to be easier than your instructions. Like the screws near the steering rack are not screws they are the plastic pop out things. I forget what they are called. The subframe has different mounting points. Transmission cooler lines are not in the way they are high on the radiator. Definitely engineering improvements.
How did you re-tension the belt after removing it? Is it just the case of lining up the belt with the pulley and re-attaching the bolts?
You'll want to remove the belt (as if you were going to servicing it) before removing the power steering pulley. Reinstalling the belt is done by using the tensioner pulley and a t50 torx socket. Hope that helps!
@@TheBimmerBarn Thank you
Yep, need to do it eventually. Think I'll need to do the vcg first though. There are so many connections, bolts and shifted parts and assemblies that I'm not only going to bkmk and watch this and others, and research, but I'll be compiling lists of steps, do a punch in and separate punch out list with every procedure + torque value. I'd like to keep my car, I guess, so will be looking for all the normal wear parts I can, to R&R or else upgrade. Engine mounts, for instance, and probably subframe mounts. And I have a pronounced waste-gate rattle. Maybe it's time to go to upgraded twins? Catted-downpipes? Shoot, there's so much to do to bring my car back to spec or better, wish I had a lift! Jack + stands gets old. I'd even consider building a lift if the right design, within my skillset came along. 2007/e90/335i (*pre-lci/n54)
My car is st 90,000miles.
Nice tutorial ! Thank you :)
Question : isn't it easier to unbolt the steering rack from the subframe ?
Doing so, the steering lines and sterring colmun might all stay bolted.
To keep in place the oil pan gasket, you can secure it with a couple of zip ties. Once some screws are installed, simply cut the ties ;)
Good question, if yoh leave the steering rack up like that, it makes it more difficult to maneuver the oil pan out. The more room you have, the better! Thanks for watching and leaving a comment Stephane 👍
What tow hook are you using?
Does this apply the same way to the N55 also?
Does this work on the 535i e60 model
how long would it take to do this job? i gotta do it in my daily 335i however my car has the n55.
8-10 hours your first time, same procedure for N55 cars
Any thoughts on using orange silicone (thin layer) on the mating surfaces? Other OEMs do this.....
I think it works when there is a channel and the surface is made for the rtv, otherwise, it's not a replacement for a flat rubber/metal gasket as intended from factory. Great question, I see it over-used sometimes and it can cause a leak.
@@TheBimmerBarn I guess my comment was more with putting the compound in addition to the stock gasket in a very thin layer. I suspect that the expansion and contracting of the aluminum parts over time is what contributes to the leaks coming back. I’m changing mine soon, so I’ll be the test case for this idea :)
@@jackarsenault2216what were your results boss?
Hello, I have a BMW 2009 335 i convertible and it is leaking oil from below the gasket on top of the engine. They are new, the oil is leaking from below and I need to change it. Can you help me to know what it is? Thanks.
Valve cover gasket. If the gasket is new then the cover itself might be warped.
Guy sounds like Harry from 3rd rock from the sun 😎😁
hey im following your guide for my own n54, i also have the auto trans with the 3 E10 bolts that go into the pan. do you know what torque + angle they take?
I think those smaller bolts are 19Nm according to the manual. Thanks for watching!
@@TheBimmerBarn thanks! that spec worked perfectly 👌
do you live in los angeles friend?? can you do that job to my 2009 bmw 335i??
Great video. Thanks for sharing. Can you please tell me how many hours total it took you to replace the oil pan gasket?
Oil pan gasket alone runs about 10-12 hours, a little faster if you've done it before! Thanks for watching and leaving a comment!
@@TheBimmerBarn You really made that look a lot faster :)
How many hours . Truthfully now . 8-12? Maybe more ?
I think book time is something like 12 hours for this job. Definitely a marathon!
Awesome video, that ground strap is looking a tad green tho lol.
How long does the job take
328i x drive I’m in the same boat . Is there any difference ?
I have a different video for xdrive cars, very different procedure because of the awd components!
I wondered how my car had so many stripped bolts heads lol, now I see why.
do you replace the subframe bolts after taking them out?
No not typically. They're steel so can be reused.
Hi, Should you warm up your car in really cold weather?
Yes yes yes please do. For lots of reasons, but simple answer is yes :)
Having a hard time lining the engine bolts up during reinstall.
You don’t have to pop the steering linkage it doesn’t give barely anymore room anyways.
Will this be the same for n55 rwd?🤔
Almost exactly the same procedure, perhaps different bolt torques
Does anyone have step by step 328i xdrive oil pan replacement video?
Not exactly the same, but this video should help and get you 90% of the way! ua-cam.com/video/01cwywuofDo/v-deo.html
I need to replace my Oil Pan Gasket. The width of the Engine Support bar from Harbor freight isn't long enough for my 09 - E60 - 535XI. I can't find any alternative support bar! I need one with a width of 64'' Has anyone else ran into this issue? Any Recommendations?
Have you tried putting it at an angle? it doesn't have to be straight side to side, just on any part of the chassis.
Super thorough and detailed! Thank you! Any tips if I want to fully remove the subframe? Are the control arms the only thing holding it up at that point?
I like to remove the 3 nuts holding each strut to the strut towers, which drops the whole front suspension assembly, but you can also remove the control arms and tie rods if you want to have just the subframe. Thanks for watching! 😊
Top video
wow thats alot of work
Nowadays that job is not easy as dropping the oil pan. For the person wanting to keep his garage floor clean that's what it takes. This DIY vid is for the one who doesn't want to spend "beaucoup" moula at the service shop.
BMW charges $2,000 for this job. Gasket and bolts only $65 and the rest is labor.
I've got a bmw repair shop near me that quoted me $800 for the job. That doesn't seem so bad compared to the dealer. But just knowing it's still all labor is a tough swallow.
@@TheFrenchPug There is so much - $800 is liveable, esp if they'd combine much of the labor and do some things exposed during this service. Swap belts, do all rubber hoses, trans fluid change, sevice trans solenoids, new trans pan, bolts and gaskets, R&R trans lines if needed, possible waste-gate or turbo service...what else at 90,000mi?
Oh man. The rear left bolt that goes from the bell housing into the oil pan..what a pig to get to...😅
I love how you just skip over the belt removal.
Check out my 335i Pulley and Belt Service video! :)
Hopefully if you are doing this job you know how to remove the belt by now.
Definitely a tedious job but if they’re quoting 8-12 that’s kind of insane lol
Wow I just rather burn my BMW 😂😬
😂😂😂
Can the gasket be changed by lifting the engine a couple of inches instead of dropping the sub-frame?
No, you need a lot more space to change the gasket