Brake Flush / Brake Bleed - Honda Element | DIY | How to Bleed | How to Flush | Easy
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- Опубліковано 3 жов 2024
- How to Do a one-man Brake Fluid Flush / Brake Bleed as demonstrated on a Honda Element. Learn how to do a complete brake system flush to replace the old, dirty and contaminated brake fluid with fresh & clean DOT 3 brake fluid. The two-person method is discussed and the one person method is shown to bleed the brakes. I also show the correct order to bleed Honda brakes for a complete flush. One-Man Brake Flush / Brake Bleed - Honda Element - DIY | How-to | Easy | Cheap
Here are the product links:
Vinyl Tubing: geni.us/5Bt2
32oz DOT3: geni.us/wPqrcs
Syringe: geni.us/4NNIl
NOTES:
1. The Honda-prescribed bleed pattern:
LeftFront - RightFront - RightRear - LeftRear
2. Do not use open bottles of brake fluid that are more than a few weeks old as the fluid begins to absorb moisture from the air as soon as the seal is broken.
3. The ABS can not be flushed without a special tool. You can indirectly flush it by activating it while driving. To activate the ABS, bring the car up to speed on a road with no other traffic & no passengers & slam on the brakes. Repeat 2-3 times. Ideally, you would re-bleed here, but if you bleed often its not really necessary.
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#brakebleed #brakeflush #grokshop #hondaelement
TAGS:
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Music credits (in order of appearance):
[music credits pending]
For this video, all music was acquired at the the Free Music Archive and licensed under a CCby[X] license which are free to use licenses ( even commercially ). I do tip these artists from time to time, based on the success of my videos. Please check them out, tip em or buy some of their work. Without generous & talented artists, it'd be a bunch of polka stuff. ("Dum da da dum, DEE, dum da da dum..")
Great tip on the false alarm of air getting in around the bleeder screw - I wasted a lot of brake fluid learning the hard way.
I'll try that tapping trick at the end next time i do this. Thanks.
Great video, thanks! I followed your lead, bled Right front, Left Front, Left rear, and Right rear order. When testing, the pedal feels fine until i come to a complete stop. At this point the pedal drops all the way to the floor. How do I remedy that?
It sounds like you bled in the wrong order. It's left front, right front, right rear, left rear.
Typically you want to bleed brakes starting with the wheel or line that is furthest from the master cylinder. This Honda bleed sequence is news to me.
Very well done video. Enjoyed seeing the brake fluid change from dirty to clean.
Before starting any maintenance of service work, it's smart to read the manuals.
Honda is pretty adament about using only Honda brake fluid, to the point where adding anything else is described in the Owners and service manuals as something to be done only in an emergency, after which ASAP the system should be flushed and replaced with Honda's fluid. At $12/qt for Honda's fluid, vs a lot more for replacing cylinders, why use anything else?
The Element Owners manual shows the front jack point as in the center of the front cross-member and the rear is the rear tow loop. Thats a one one lift per end, but it does require a jack that can lift +20". I'm lucky that I read the manual first and bought a jack to do it.
The forward tow loop positions and rear cross member can be used with a smaller jack, but I observed that using that rear cross member one time effected the rear alignment.
If you start with the tubing arcing downwards as soon as possible, gravity plus capillary action will pull fluid down and into the catch bottle (gravity bleed). The tube can then be raised to above the level of the caliper.
Hi P Schmied. Thanks for your thorough & thoughtful feedback.
I absolutely agree that reading the manuals is imperative. However, you should also be aware that Honda is a business & wants very much to sell as many products to you as possible. I have been servicing Hondas for over 25 years & can tell you that if you feel you have to use Honda branded brake fluid: you sir, are incorrect. You see, brake system fluids are standardized by US law (and probably similar laws in other parts of the world). The reason for that is that proper braking performance is absolutely paramount. This being the case, Honda is forced to design a braking system which dutifully accepts one of the major standards (DOT3 in this case) of brake fluid, and when such fluid is used in a Honda, the brakes must perform to a standard & maintain reliability. My advice here: service the fluid regularly (as explained in the video) and use the cheapest big-name brand you can get your hands on. As a side note... definitely only use Honda's power steering fluid when you are servicing that fluid!
Regarding the jack points... You are correct about the jack height problem. I'm glad you have found a good jack! One day, when my old jack gives out, I also will get one where I do single jack points. My experience jacking many, many times is: you can feel free to jack any car up by any sufficiently large & exposed part of the frame. I don't understand why you would have an alignment problem by jacking at a crossmember. I've done this many times (on many types of cars) and my alignment has never been as issue. In fact, Honda alignments are famously solid.
I agree on the gravity bleeds - they are a great way to go if you have the time because they reduce the risk of damaging the master cylinder while requiring less work!
Volkswagen is like that with transmission fluid. For my car that fluid is $24 or $25 per liter!! There are cheaper alternatives people have tried and have not yet mentioned any ill effects on their transmission. Now if it is a ZF transmission, it would be best to stick with the right ZF fluid. Mine is made by Aisin Warner instead and knowing that leaves the possibilities open for searching forums for other cars using that same transmission and see what they are using and see if they would use that fluid again or if they had any shifting problems from using a different fluid. Search around and see if anyone with that same car had any problems. You will quickly learn that there are plenty of less expensive fluids this way which you could possibly use.
Hondas can easily use DOT 3 or DOT 4 Brake Fluid (it even says so on the Brake Fluid Reservoir Cap). You can use Honda Brand Brake Fluid if you want; but, it's just expensive DOT 3 (maybe DOT 4 if you're lucky). Honda requires it's own brand of Transmission Fluid and Power Steering Fluid; however, every other type of Fluid is whatever you can get your hands on (just don't use the REALLY cheap stuff). There may be some Hondas/Acuras out there which REQUIRE Honda Brand Brake Fluid; but, I haven't come across any of them, yet.
Honda has no trouble selling their fluid with a margin that will make the dealers money - but they also want you to use their fluid because they know it works and it eliminates one possible trouble shooting scenario.
Honda wants to sell their grossly over priced parts. Engine thermostat for my Element was $98.00 and it is plastic. This is my last Honda.
Outstanding job. One thing I like to use on the bleeder fittings, especially to initially break them free, is to use a six point socket or box wrench, especially on an older or northeast USA where we love salt. The six point helps prevent stripping of the bleeder hex.
Thanks Randy. This is solid advice, too. The reason being that 6 point wrenches or sockets distribute the torque more evenly around the fitting vs a 12-point. (We like salt here in SoCal too, but mainly just on our fries :P)
+1 on that, 6 point is a must.
In Norway rust has it's own citizenship.
Ice, snow, salt and RUST. Yeah, there's plenty of all that around here. ;-)
Cheers
flare wrenches to prevent that!
Love your videos, and I always watch the ads to help your $$$$. Thanks, and keep up the great videos. Mitch
What if you don’t have a helper tho????
Great video except you bleeded the brakes in the wrong procedure. After talking to Honda technician he stated you start from the furthest point of the ABS. Rear right, rear left, front right, front left.
The process I showed is the Honda-recommended process.
Take this crap down immediately. You don't do what you're saying, e.g., close screw after pushing pedal.
Missing the point of one man bleeding procedure.
Fantastic , they have bleeders that are not so expensive and make the job quicker as well.. just need to connect it to shop air or a compressor with a air hose. And there is no pumping the pedal and you can stay right at the bleeder and watch it for the new fluid to emerge out the line. Bingo bango !
Cheers JOGO. I have used those hand vacuums to bleed before, but never one with the compressor; I have a pretty good compressor, so I will have to look that option up! FYI, with the plain pedal-mash approach, a vid chat with 2 phones helps to see when the clean fluid starts coming out.
Mine were so tight that the wrench that comes with the car would not loosen them even if I am standing on it. A good breaker bar is a must for those situations. You don't want to have a flat and not be able to get it off. That would be really awful. The only way I can think of it being worse is having those two piece lug nuts found on many Chrysler cars. Those horrible things have a lug nut but a thin metal cap which is often troublesome because of the way they tend to deform sometimes. This makes them very difficult to remove. Who ever designed those awful things must have been truly evil!! Imagine having those on but over tightened (I can already imagine all the cursing and cussing while someone is in that unfortunate situation). Having those lug nuts is no fun. I got rid of the rest of them for solid ones the local tire shop has for just a dollar each. I am not sure how much good ones usually cost but anything is better than those horrible two piece lug nuts.
Now I no longer have that Chrysler but instead a Volkswagen. The fluid in that car is what brought be here, it has turned green and needs changed. It must be fluid it left the assembly line with 8 years ago.
Just while i was thinking about should "i leave the cap on or off 🤔 you stepped in and made reference to it 👏
Great tutorial. Thank you~~ "The old flip-flop technic" 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Do you hold the brake pedal down before you retighten it like a clutch ? Or do you let go of the brake and then tighten it down ?
Hello Grok Shop! Great video thanks for posting but I also have a question. I have bled 3 times & I have no brakes still . . .. I broke down and called a mechanic place and they said It needs to be bled on a machine BUT I HAVE a feeling that may not be true ... What's your opinion on that? (2004 Honda Element)Thanks!
If you have bled the brakes 3 times and are not up to full braking power, I would definitely say let a pro have a crack at it. You could have extenuating circumstances. Brakes are too important to take chances with. Having said that, I will say that if you bleed them regularly & activate the ABS as I described, you normally don't need the machine bleeder. Also the brakes in this car can feel a bit mushy in comparison to other cars, even when in perfect condition. However, the machine makes it possible to completely flush the entire thing including ABS, so it's going to be better... just more $$, of course.
You have to re-bleed using the two person method
Good Job Grok Man!
HOW DO YOU ACTIVATE ABS?
Brake as hard as you can. Pedal to the metal. But don't do it while you are driving at 60 mph... 30 mph is enough.
I love the grease trick, thanks
Same process applied on bikes disk brakes??
What size wrench to open the bleeder valve?
Nice video. You to change those tires!
the music is loud
7:23 What kind of grease?
Fish 4 Fun
- Any type of grease. It's just for momentary seal of the thread.
With this said even spit work perfectly! But please don't quote me on that. LOL ;-)
Cheers
Silicone grease.
Like the idea of the wood on the floor jack and cardboard on the stands. However that being said......not all lift points are straight and smooth for maximum surface area engagement.
Bleeding brakes, you must start from the furthest wheel in relation to the ABS Pump and brake fluid reservoir, rear passenger wheel, then driver's rear, passenger front then driver's front. Also never pull you parking brakes when bleeding, by doing so you lock your rear caliper with old fluid inside.
The procedure in this video is done according to Honda's specifications. Therefore, this is the correct procedure for this car. Generically speaking, yes you would normally first bleed the caliper farthest away & get closer as you go. But I would not recommend a deviation from the manufacturer's recommendations. Also, in most cases, parking brakes have no effect on the bleeding procedure as they are typically mechanical in nature & isolated from the hydraulic lines.
@@grokshop Yeah, my 2017 Elantra Sport oddly has me start at the farthest wheel in the manual, then goes to the closest (LF) and then LR, then RF.
There are a few types of parking brake systems. Some are a separate system like the ones on a Honda element which are located under the disk brake hats. Others have the parking directly connected to the brake caliper.
So was 32oz. of fluid too much for a flush or did you need more/less?
There was probably a good 8+ oz left over. You can kind of see at 10:20 by looking at how far the bottle is tipped & guestimate from there. So, 2 12oz bottles is probably sufficient. Of course like I said, you don't really want to save the leftovers for use in your car at a later date, but there are other uses for brake fluid too!
Best Honda bleeding video out there!
I can still bleed my brakes just need to make sure I don't get air in the line or I would have to have a shop bleed or rescan my ABS?
EXCELLENT VIDEO!
Hey just do it?