Watch this before you mod your RB20 RB25 or RB26 | common issues | 500hp build
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- Опубліковано 5 лют 2025
- I finally decided to film a video about one of the major issues with the RB series engines, and also questions that i commonly get asked about my engine build. The main issue with oiling is not just for the rb25, its for the rb20 and rb26 as well.
2:14 : oiling mods
5:57 : lifters
7:12 : camshafts
7:45 : turbo
9:42 : would i do it again?
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To answer your question on the CXRacing kit -- I have the full s13/rb25 T70 kit. I had to make some adjustments to get it to fit on the studs, but otherwise it "just worked", wastegate, dump pipe, and all. That cheap turbo was pretty laggy, and I kept it at 10psi, but it worked. Didn't make basically any power until 5000rpm, and it made about 230whp at 7psi, so... not bad. Coming off a failed OEM turbo, this was a cheap step towards my idea setup, with some temporary compromises, but allowed me to get the car running and driving for a few years while I saved up, fixed, and planned. Of note: the V-band flanges and clamps included will definitely leak a little. The flanges that have the lip on the inside like vibrant or garrett (instead of completely flat) wouldn't have this problem, nor are they compatible with the BW turbo flange.
Since then, I've swapped to a turbosmart 38mm gate (bolted right on, only for peace of mind), modified the dump pipe to recirculate the wastegate, and swapped to a G30-770 w/ T4 flange. Much to my surprise, it just worked, and I drove it on the same tune for about a year. Strangely, I didn't have to tweak the wastegate duty at all... until we turned it up later. It's now making 400whp at 20psi, but still pretty laggy, not really making full power until about the same 5000rpm. Noticeably more responsive than the T70, but it's way off where it should be. I'm pretty sure there's some problem somewhere, I just haven't found it. Maybe the manifold just naturally makes turbos lazy, or maybe there's an exhaust leak, I dunno; something. I think my next step is getting a twin-scroll manifold, and redoing the downpipe w/ better V-Band flanges that don't leak.
So... is the CXRacing kit a cheap way to make some power and get a working car? yes. BUT you will have a laggy setup. Probably won't notice a difference on an S300, but it's definitely a way to save money. I don't regret my choices, because it was a 1000$ option all-in to get a running driving car that allowed me to upgrade piece-by-piece as necessary. Even if I completely replace the whole thing, the value of having a working car for many years was worth it.
this 👆 .. first hand review.. thanks for the comment!
Lol I remember literally laughing out loud back when I was trying to build a rb engine before you could find much of anything at all parts or information wise but I had got ahold of someone at tomei in Japan who could speak English but unfortunately he wasn't knolagable as far as being able to answer my questions or recommending the parts I needed but back then we had paper catalogs (ya I'm old lol) but after 25 minutes of explaining the goals of the engine ECT I asked what all do I need to do what I want but also keep it together... The guy who was translateing to me after alot of back and forth with the engineering guy said" ok go to page xxx ok now go half way down.. ok you need everything from there until the end of the next page" lol and he was very serious lol god bless the internet
Check out the rb30 crank collar. 😮 We have been replacing them since early 90s. The other is you need a decent balancer to be reliable if you rev it.
Don’t run less than one front and rear restrictor. Run dual 1-1.3s depending on the pump. If you circuit scavenge pump.
Love the video, applies to all RB'S. I want to add one thing, 10w60 full synthetic oil! Rb's love oil pressure and it definitely helps the longevity for alot of the bottom end. Just my 2 cents!
Extended baffled sump helps the most w drifting, catch can returned to the sump aswel. I run a 30/25 pushing 594whp and everything has been done as mentioned. Running a borgwarner s300sx. Next time I wouldnt go that turbo and new tech to bring it on 500rpm earlier. Also running 272 kelfords & upgraded springs. Trigger kit is a must. Hope this helps anyone w info on what to do
I run a g35 1050 on my 25\30. makes 27psi by 3800rpm highly rate it.
@@timothylemons634 that’s mad responsive! What power are you running? VCT? Upgraded camshafts/adjustable cams? What intake plenum?
@@c33jp yup still running vct,pro flow intake 100mm throttle body.the smallest drop in cams from kelford the 246 A1.1650cc injectors big fuel setup Current tune is 620hp at the rear wheels on e85 still set to 7000rpm rev limit.too responsive ATM lol even in 5th gear it doesn't see much traction still alot of work with wheels and suspension to try get that power to the ground and some more head work before she gets turned all the way up.some clips of it running etc on my channel.
@@timothylemons634 sounds like a great setup 🔥
Catch can returned to sump??
I turn 18 soon I figured I’d build a drift s13 so your videos help allot thanks man.🤟🏽
awesome! good luck with it
Yoo this evo deserves subscribtion, nice taste dude.
another interesting fact, Borg Warner and holset are notorious for maintaining the turbo diesel exhaust wheel tech,from first hand experience they are horrible for bringing boost on early and making good power compared to new turbo tech
Hi Octane offers a plug and play for the head drain set up. The drain plug uses existing thread holes on the head and that’s it. Hope this helps anyone.
Some very good info. I have an r33 gts25t I'm having idling issues at the moment in the process of changing to 550cc injectors and 255lph fuel pump. That oil drain sounds like a good idea though. Keep up the good work. 👍
thank you!
Always real. The man of the people.
This was one of my favorite UA-cam builds
Did you line bore your bottom block for the build along with installed arp main studs? Also i would ask what type of main bearing did you go would it be oversize?
i used the ACL bearings with stock clearance, didnt do oversize or anything, i didnt do anything to the block other than the oil squirters
She's coming along nice...def my favorite.
im new to the rb25 platfrom and i dont know what brands i should buy from, my goal is around 350-400bhp with a budget of 6-9k for everything, any help would be appreciated especially to save some cash
you can stay pretty stock and make those goals.. id look into some injectors, a turbo, maybe fuel pump and a good tune
Just grabbed an r31 with an rb25de in it so you know if I would be able to put a turbo on the de without a lot of headaches or should I just leave it na
Hey mate, what kind of catch can you running? Did you just block off the PCV side and then both outlets to the can vented to atmosphere? Do you have it draining back into sump?
The catch can was some random one I bought off a guy on FB that was selling a few things.. pvc was blocked off, and yes. Vented to atmosphere.. I never got that much in the can in the first place to want to drain it back to the pan
Doing the lifters is easy as pie if you have the right tool!! Jim Wolf Technology Part#(AZ320-SPOCOM) its a tool for a Nissan 300zx. The vg30dett uses the same head architecture so the valve spring pockets are the same. It can be bought at Z1 motorsports website for like 30 bucks. Don't pay anyone hundreds of dollars when you can do it yourself for like 30-40 bucks.
JWT Valve Spring Compressor - 300ZX on the Z1 Website currently $22.89 (11/30/2022)
i used some cheap-ish amazon one.. was very annoying to get the keepers to sit in there 😂
would u build a rb20de neo ?
maybe someone have problem with power steering in rb25det ? i have stock rb about 320 hp and i have to change pump and regenrate steering rack after 1-2 drift events. the new pump i give to test before mount and it in very good condition, after change it work excelent. Im greatfull of any advice
My engine rb25 stock engine with a single turbo what psi i can put
Nice build.. is it necessary to removed the head for the head drain ? Can it be done in car..
thanks.. yes. the head definitely has to come off (or engine out of car). you have to knock out a freeze plug, then drill and tap the back of the head
What size a/r turbine housing you using?
New to the Rb game and I'm currently rebuilding it and considering a crank collar from franklin performance but cant find any reviews...which brand did you use??
i used the franklin performance for mine.. im not sure on a review, as long as you have a machine shop that could install it, im sure you wont have any issues with it at all
@chrisdz tks bro appreciate it...kinda skeptical about using the restricors tho so think I might just add a head drain from Franklin as well
@@chrisdznever really heard of anyone using the Franklin before but wanted to give it a try so think I'll go for it
Love your videos I have a rb25det swapped cefiro
thank you! appreciate it
Hows that N1 pump holding up? Just curious blew my N1 gears apart after a few months on a similar build and decided to do billet gears.
I was working out fine for me.. I regretted not upgrading the gears but they didn’t let me down
@@chrisdz Glad to hear luckily i had an oil pressure gauge and caught it early
Your engine probably needs an ati balancer or it isn't balanced right somewhere. N1 pumps should last, billet pump gear do make it better
Buy the garret turbos guys they are the most sophisticated in turbochargers. It's pricey yes
Intercooler pipe s.steel or aluminium?
aluminum
@@chrisdz beautiful
im suprised to see a stock cas at your power level
the only issue i had with it, was not installing the little spacers back on before installing, which made it sit too far in and break the tooth thing off the cam shaft.. so it takes a little effort to put it back on so its all timed correctly
I will like to know about Westgate service and adjustment
i havent had to adjust it.. but IF it needed a spring change, id take it completely off the car, so i can have it on a work bench to work on it.. its a little difficult to get it lined up while under spring pressure, so making it as easy on yourself as possible is what id do.
Subed today, just bought a rb25 240 running on stock wiring harness ecu and maf setup. Car runs but won’t boost. I wanna do a maf to map mod before installing Hal tech?
wouldnt be a bad idea to do that..
Hey. Having misfire problem with my rb 20 single cam. Changed plugs, plug wires,cleaned injectors., throttle body and acc valve. Reach a point where I don't know what to do next. Any advice would be appreciated
i would do a compression test just to be sure motor is healthy.. then do some tests with motor running, could just be a connection issue with a wire somewhere.. maybe an injector is just not working? is it misfiring while idling or trying to rev it?
Which engine is most reliable between rb20, rb25 and rb26...?
its subjective to a lot of things.. a good tune and maintenance goes a very long way
Rb20det has a better oiling system out of those 3, 25 is the worst. Rb30 is as good as a 20
Nice video. Major advantage of the top mount is access to the turbo, I have found. If you ever swap the BW for a less laggy model, you'll be happy to have gone top mount. 😁
Any plans on getting a more modern trigger kit? I went for the PRP dual cam sensor thing, waiting for the car to come back from the shop to set it up.
i considered the PRP kit a while back, but i dont think my ECU(AEM EMS v2) is compatible with it, so i stopped looking
@@chrisdz Bummer. As long as the CAS does what it's supposed to do, not a big issue I guess. 🙂
Why are some rb25/26s fucking 16k for complete with trans or one I saw was 9k for longblock only? They looked like the r34 one but shit that’s a lot
pandemic pricing.. everythings crazy right now
lol gurth