RB25 Problems and Limits
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- Опубліковано 25 жов 2018
- Pulling down a s2 RB25DET and hopefully teaching a thing or two about common issues and faults in these motors when pushed to their limits!
Watch how to install rear head drain here: • RB25DET Head Drain Ins...
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Aussies....low key RB masters
Jesse Jesse haha we were blessed with them in abundance!
It's rare to come across someone who actually knows what they're doing with the RB. Great video mate and good explanations. I got a S2 Nissan Stagea RS4-S factory manual with the RB25det-neo lump. It's a fantastic bit if engineering 👌
Kippa92 thanks for the feedback mate!
Oh man I have a big soft spot for stags! Big body wagons, theres just something about them!
@@BoostGumps yeah man I love it! Got some big plans for the old girl. And no.. not straight to bolting on a bigger turbo 😆
Mate thank you this is exactly the sort of video I was looking for, what a legend.
Cheers glad I could help out mate!
Top notch info here. One thing I can add.. I have 2 rb25 neos and they both had the short collar on the crank. People say that some of the neos came with the longer collar, but I've never seen anyone substantiate this info.
Thanks! Yep you arent the first person to point this out. Unfortunately I have no personal experience with the neo. However, it would appear they all have the short snout.
I have had 3 rb25det neos pass through our machine shop, they all had the longer oil collar. Seemingly late production engines have the collar albeit all neos are supposed to have the long oil collar
very informative and well explained points while opening the engine piece by piece, really love the format and it was never boring in it's entirety. Nice job and good luck in future videos
Finally. An RB25Det with a good plenum and standard runners :) can u do a vid on low mount options for street / track use
That was a great lesson for a guy like me with an RB25. Thank you! Pip
I was unaware of the oil drain and lower end starvation problem. Thanks for pointing it out.
Solid amount of info cheers man, stoked to find another aussie youtubers who provide good quality content not just vlogs 👌👌
OZOME thanks mate! Trying to do some more content like this in future as well as build content.
Legend mate. Thanks for the vid! Detailed as much as it can be.
To my knowledge, no one has ever opened a NEO engine and found an extended snout crank. They all have the standard short snout crank like the S1 and S2.
David Beiler thats interesting! Cant say i have honestly had a lot to do with the NEO, just the filthy s1&2 haha. Ive just been told they fixed the issue so interesting to hear!
Leprechaun Laboratory they fixed it in series r34 neo’s, But all neos had the better head & 26 rods & maybe pistons too I can’t remember exactly but rods for sure 👌🏼
@@VeganEmbassy Yep, pistons and rods are better than S1 and S2 but I opened 3 NEOs (R34s, Cedrics, Stageas ones not sure on exact years now as they were all imported engines) and all of them have short crank snout so either there are some later ones that have this fixed as I've heard before (but actualy now don't know of anyone that could confirm that) or I've read recently that maybe just R34 RB26 had this really fixed and the NEO is just a rumor being spread over the years...
Thanks for the video! I recently bought a WGNC34 Stagea (my own little unicorn!) with an RB25DET, I now have a little shopping list of things I want to do for reliability!
Such a badass video man. Too bad motivedvd don’t make videos like these. Great stuff learning about the RB25!
Nice Vid. So much great info here, kind of surprised your not more popular. Stick with it man, I could see this channel blowing up.
JoJo thanks so much for the feedback! Ill keep with it for sure, even if only 100 people watch haha I just like doing it!
BTW nice set up in the garage. Looks like a dream.
Very informative video thank you sir, glad I watched this video before my 200sx RB swap.
Charlie 👍 video of rear head drain instal coming this thursday
keen as to see a SR20DET version of this video...
although mine is a 54C aka RNN14 aka GTiR version (AWD)
This was an AWESOME video bro
Very good and informative video mate
Great Video. Your shed setup is wicked too
Bit different these days! Haha
Neo's all have short oil pump drive just like the 33's unfortunately. The interesting part is that they have 1.2mm restrictors in the block from factory and do not have an external head drain and seem to be fine. Also I would not recommend enlarging the oil return holes in the block as it can compromise the strength of the block in high hp applications even if it is just 1mm.. Rear head drain and appropriate restrictors are ok for most people.
Very cool to know, I have a car with a RB25 in my near future
Very informative video thank you. New subscriber.
Great information, thanks
Wow, I would like to bring an engine to you if possible. I had a great engine that lasted a long time, hill climbs, and drift events, it dropped cyl5. I guess now its about $$$$.
Very nice video man!
Thank you very much for this info. So all these problems were sorted in the neo rb25? Oil drain, oil pump and rods? Or did I misunderstand
I got neo so no need extended collar on the crank? Will do the oil drain from the back of the head & put a restrictor on oil feed.👌 thanks you so much for the information.
Hey mate good video, currently in the process of rebuilding a Rb25 and doing all the usual things like arp head studs metal headgasket n1 oil pump crank collar and the external head drain my question is about the oil restrictors what ones would you recommend for a daily/ drift car but not all the time.. are the stock ones fine or would you really recommend getting smaller ones?
Trying to sort as much of the oil issues as I can while it's apart..
Any help would be appreciated.
Hydraulic Tappets.
They creep shut over night, stops them starting in the morning, and makes the ECU correct constantly.
Need a NEO head or TOMEI solid lifter kit.
Very helpfull thanks mate! New sub👍
Great info! Cheers
This is how I'd like my RB build vids to look...
Awesome info
run an rb20 and rev all day long with bolt ons. thicker bore spacing. if you look after them they are great
very good thank you!
My Neo hydro locked on first start after engine swap due to ecu perminantly grounding injector no 2. fixed that and it ran ok for 4 months. Then just popped that rod at 4-5k rpm on half throttle randomly. I assume the rod got bent from the hydro lock. Massive hole in the block, sump and head ok, so all the energy went sideways. How does the crank fare after something like that?
This is great, finally someone who isn't just repeating garbage they read on the Internet.. :D
Maaan do i have a plot twist for you XD, Thanks for the feedback!
can you do a video just like this for rb20's please
Hi, that one nice video there.. I am looking for a 400 whp setup on my rb25 (series 1) wich harmonic balancer would you recommend?
Ross Performance do a great one
How did you go getting the harmonic balance off with RH threaded bolt?
Cylinder 1 piston has been hitting the head quench pads.. How has the big end bearing gone missing but no scoring done to crank and rod?
As much as I love to do a rb26 I won't build one then walls oil problems . Low budget in the states I would do a 2jz in a 300zx boost 800 hp fun daily with out the headaches
all rb's are the same my 25/30 spun bearings from no oil pressure and over reved
You need to check block integrity. I can't remember the numbers but I believe most good decent RB blocks should read like somewhere around 260-280.
Can't remember tool name it knocks the steel and gets a reading of the strength of the steel. It's a manufacturing thing nothing is created equal they may all be the same but some blocks were just lucky enough to be slightly stronger than the one made before it ect. Even same batches ect can produce minor differences in the quality.
And, obviously, not thrashing it will help. unless your racing, anything more than 400hp is kind of pointless considering the speed limit.
Which type of performance harmonic balancer is best for the rb25??
Nice Thankyou
Max, U know this.
you are the best
@LeperchaunLaboratory Do the issues mentioned apply to both standard RB25 & RB25neo ? I’m new to RB engines so I’m taking notes.
Unfortunately I have not alot of Personal Experience with the NEO. Things i KNOW is that the oil draining from the head seems to be less prominent in the NEO, the NEO has a better valve train.
Some people say the NEO also has extended crank snout for oil pump drive, however some say they do not (as some comments on this video suggest). I Personally can neither confirm nor deny this as I have never pulled the oil pump off a NEO.
Supposedly the NEO also has better rods and pistons, but again, I cannot confirm this.
No doubt the NEO is a better engine, however im sure it also has problems like any engine.
It’ doesn’t have any burps on throttle sorts and idles fine . Just a random shut off on the highway .
I heard something is wrong with my idle circuit causing cold issues-cant drive it at night and I must use sunoco's 100 octane. What do you say to that?
What if I had all basic bolt ons. Hks2535 and water/meth. Would 1bar be safe?
Are these the same similar issues with rb26,rb20 etc motors?
Can you bolt up a 25 neo head to a series 2 block ? Is that possible ?
Shed some light on my rb25det series 1. Just randomly shuts off while goin 100. Starts back up but not sure. Cleaned every connector that’s important.
corey rosler first place i would look is CAS. Is it a stock ecu?
Stock yes. Even the boost. I pulled lots of the important electrical connectors cleaned them. Seen sum funk in a few of them. Hasn’t done it since . But was thinkin maybe sumthin to do with the alternator... seems to charge. Sat for a long time. Just maybe gunked up. I haven’t replaced the cas yet but will fine that a shot. Thanks for the advice man!
For anyone not highly skilled in these fields....
Maybe too high rpm and oil temp/too low viscosity etc etc. Which with an unbalanced/straightened stock crank has allowed the bearing surfaces to break completely through to oil film and.... the rest is history. I watch my oil temp as much, if not more, as coolant temp, which can rise or fall within a few corners of reduced load but high oil temps once climbing at a faster rate than ideal, takes more drastic changes in driving style for a longer duration of time to bleed the heat back out of everything (highest speed with lowest engine load/rpm as possible) Too higher temp and poor balance does damage sooner than dropping oil pressure.
Invest in forged components that use a high quality metal compositions and balance everything as precisely as possible for how you intend the engine be used (short stroke vs displacement is your friend for high rpm without requiring mega$$$)
Is "shimming" oil pump a thing? Heard a Texan takin bout it.
Talking about the oil pump. Do you recommend changing the oilpump to a n1 oilpump? I ve heard they would fit better.
Really depends on the rest of your engine setup. The only way to combat the walking of the pump gears and an extended collar. However what pump (volume/pressure etc) depends on your engine and driving style.
Check Supertech N1 spline kit.
Are any of the oil mods you mentioned in this video necessary for a daily driver RB25? Im lookin at a stock R33 GTS25T for my daily (mostly highway) but i dont plan on modding it or tracking it until i have all the parts for a full forged build, at that point ill do the collar and channel restrictors etc. i will not be hitting rev limiter while its stock, maybe a decent pull on an on ramp but nothing crazy. Thanks man, the video is awesome! 🤙🏼
Jordan Cerace yeh mate for daily driver stock will be fine. They can still cop a lot of punishment! Only really high RPM for extended periods will you run into these oiling issues. Such as drifting etc
Leprechaun Laboratory thanks a lot! You saved me a lot of unnecessary time and money! Keep up the content! 🤙🏼
@@BoostGumps so if I’m just doing casual roll racing then I should be fine without the oil mods?
hi i hope you reply to this im planning on doing my first drift car and people say sr20 is better than an rb25det cuz the rb25det has shitty torque compared to sr20 can i get ur tips and shit? sr20’s are cheaper in my country but rb25’s sounds heavenly
The good old “long haired Max”
MoTeC ecu is great right???
Just go closed deck and be done with it 👍🏻 These buggers are starting to go up in price, grab a couple of good spares b4 they get silly
i was about to buy a rb25 s2 but i think ill just wait then...
How much power can I make?
Well, how long is a piece of string?
this is what i was looking for :) i have s14a, with stock rb25det s2, nice compression, ecumaster emu, top mount chinese gt3076. boost at this moment is 1.2 bar (17-18 psi). Is this safe for a daily car ?
That should be fairly safe for street use as long as you have a good tune! Like I said as long as you aren't bashing limiter for extended periods it should be sweet, just keep a good eye on your oil levels.
Tune is ok, with good quality knock sensor, and no crazy limiter bashing. It is tempting to push it to 1.3 bar :D
sounds like you have it pretty sorted!
Daro Be is your RB25DET still alive? If so, how far have you got with it now, tuning-wise?
Daro Be oh, and which make of “Chinese turbo” did you use? I’m looking for a low mount myself, but I can’t afford to pay through the nose for something that will turn out to be no good.
Awesome vid, do you know if rb30's have extended pump drive, i've got one in an R34
Hey mate the RB30 oil pump gears are not as deep (11mm, same as collar) also the RB30 generally dont rev as high as 25's without blueprinting and serious balancing so it isnt as big of an issue.
@@BoostGumps cheers i think it's got an rb25 pump, but won't be over revving it
This includes the neo too or no?
Need collar crank and drain kit for only 400hp ! ( rb25neo det
What do you do when your new r33 coupe rb25 series 1 started cutting off, stalling, hesitating, shutting off randomly? A new maf didnt fix it. Waste and tickets from a cop on the way.
Start by chasing fuel and spark. Make sure its getting good consistent fuel pressure and good ignition (things like dying fuel pump or ignitor). If its aftermarket ECU get it to someone who can get into it and have a look at whats going on.
Gifted mam fantastic
Is there a dry sump solution for the oiling problem?
Yep! Fair few great options on the market. All very expensive though as you would expect.
Hey people! Hope some of you can help! I have a R33 GTST Type M on 166000 km (106k miles) I’ve got a crunch while shoving it into 1st gear. It’s ok if I take my time but if I want to quickly put it in 1st it crunch’s. Probably 3 out of 10 times.
Can anyone suggest anything.... maybe new oils? 🤷🏻♂️
Cheers in advance 👍🏻
Sounds like you need new synchros mate
Leprechaun Laboratory - Damn, I was afraid you’d say that. Does this mean the box is weak? I’m worried it will go bang on load.
Feels ok in gears... just odd clunk into 1st 🤔
@@Jcoxy2k10 bad synchros wont physically make your gearbox any weaker, In a manual gearbox all gears are always free spinning, what the synchro does is slow down the desired gear with friction when pressure is applied, this allows the selector ring to engage the gear. Best thing you can do is slow down your shift into first. Apply some pressure on first gear for a bit and allow it to slow down before actually engaging the gear (DONT let it grind though)
ultimately you need fresh synchro though, and better sooner rather than later as the more you grind the gear the more damage it does to the teeth on the selector ring and gear. But I wouldnt be worried about the box being any weaker.
So the RB Neo is better than the earlier RB engines?
absolutely
Gotta use netto
All good stuff my dude, just a heads up tho its pronounced like my-KROM-i-tər not micro-meter.
Anthony Marlette been saying it wrong my whole life 😂
LMFAO
Ps, you speak of flowing heads alot.... XD
You mean you can only upgrade it just a little bit not full set upgrades
So what u tranna say is keep off high rpm
Hey brother, might never see this but I gotta ask. I’ve got a RB25 in my s14 i stupidly bought someone’s project car it runs like a champ, well did! After the starter took a shit I noticed that once I started to get into the throttle the engine would spit and sputter like it wasn’t firing on one cylinder. I chalked it up as bad coil packs. And parked it till I had to funds and time to fix it. Fast forward 1 1/2 years here we are and I’m fixing to begin the tear down process, should I go ahead and pull the engine to give it a good once over. Or should I just change out the packs and call it good??
Hey mate! Honestly depends how much you have invested in it. I would start by just changing the coil packs, the RB25's were renowned for coilpack issues (In my opinion caused by lack of ventilation because of the valley cover). Anyways start fault finding with what you can before you pull the motor out. The RB25det isnt a particularly expensive engine to replace to unless you get to the point where you HAVE to remove it i would just try and fix it and just sent it till the rods fall out 😂
Thanks for the pointers man! I’ll definitely put new coil packs in it and fuckin send it lol. I’m going to go ahead and start figuring out what power plant I want next.
One more thing, do you know of a reliable, reasonably priced RB parts dealer? That’ll ship to the US.
@@somenascarpitmonkey50ncwts90 Happy to help mate. In my opinion its gotta either be a J or boosted LS, either with CD009 and its a 1 way ticket to a good time.
Absolutely! I love about an hour from the Corvette capital so LS is a big deal around here. But I can get a 1200hp 2j for about 14-17k usd built ready to run. So we’ll have to see when the time comes!
Only got music no voice?
If you're going to pull it down you may as well just go rb30/25 and be done with it.
Priestley Harker
Na... build a 25 properly and they are awesome for what the car was intended for. If ya just playing up on the highway or local roads or whatever, then sure.
The explanations of what he's doing as the video progresses is all mutes by music?
Mitch B thank youtube for that one. Wasn’t how the video was originally, youtube put the music there as a copywright thing
@@BoostGumps bastards
@Boost Gumps what a load, youtube is actively hurting content with these "features".
One thing you can do in this scenario is to add captions.
Rb 25 r31
Maybe one day haha, personally I like RB30's better!
Been done to death IMO. More worked RB30s. Less RB20/25 swaps.
You know VG30's dont have any of these issues in the video
Most all engines will grenade if not taken care of lol
all rb engine's have The same problem as the RB26 which is they suffer with oil pump failure once you hit the high horsepower numbers sorry if you're hitting over 700 horsepower then more than likely you are going to suffer with oil pump failure if you are just running the standard oil pump
It has nothing to do with power. All to do with RPM. You will have the exact same failure at 300hp..
rb30’s dont have this inherent issue as the oil pump design is much better.
The best fix for a RB25-30 is a Barra swap
hahaha I do love a Barra!
I wouldn't be surprised if it ran a bearing due to silicone on the oil pick up , you really don't need a whole tube to seal your sump bruh, 4wd block or not😂
you got the wrong location for the head drain , its the frost plug with the flat surface above where u showed. also remove the factory oil cooler , and fit a thread back to the block and run straight off the block. there's also 3 oil restrictors, one in front for vct , and the two you've shown. you can block the rear feed all together , run 2x 1mm in the front two. (you need some flow for vct) also another thing that goes a long way when drifting or track use is an accusump and a baffled and gated sump.
mate, I want to sent u a car.
Rn rb with a dead bearing, funny that.
Zac Youngson haha yep who would have thought? 😂
slap the rocker cover one more time because you havent done it enough
Captain Nastee i thought it would fix it. I keep the cover next to the door in the shed i slap it minimum 3 times a day
@@BoostGumps I approve of this. You also gained a sub for simply replying
I've made subtitles of your video in Chinese, trying to post it on a Chinese video site but I thought its a good idea to ask for your permission first, I'm not using your content to make money or anything, just trying to bring the knowledge into the Chinese car community, is it ok with you?
Im Notme absolutely go for it! No problem 😊
@@BoostGumps Awesome, cheers!!
Hi where do u post the chinese sub tittle?
So nissan didnt know this before putting them in cars to cause you to spend money smh
0:18 "what is the actual killer for these motors"....."a BARRA"
Beast60 lol you wise
All those issues you should of just bought a 2jz
Absolutely, especially in this day and age where people want 2J money for RBs!
@@BoostGumps hahaha true !