Air Conditioning Not Working (Bad Compressor)
Вставка
- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
- This vehicle has been diagnosed with a malfunctioning Air Conditioning Compressor. The compressor will have to replaced, and the system serviced. Make sure you check all electrical connections and power and grounds to the unit before just replacing components.
No gauge change at all usually means the compressor is not turning. Bad clutch or no voltage/ground.
Or it's turning but something (ex. defective refrigerant control valve) is keeping it fully destroked so it's not pumping at all (SD7V16 compressors on VW cars often had that problem).
TeraVolt i see you on a lot of ac videos lol idk if you remember me
The first thing you want to do if you see the pressure is the same on both sides is to make sure the clutch is engaging. There are several less expensive electrical components that can fail and cause this.
1) Dual pressure switch.
2) Refrigerant temperature switch.
3) Burned out clutch coil.
4) Bad connectors.
5) A/C control switch.
6) Bad fuse.
Do not jump to any conclusions when diagnosing A/C problems or you will be throwing away a lot of money.
"3) Burned out clutch coil." Often only the thermal fuse in series with most coils opens without a real reason but the clutch is otherwise perfectly healthy (4 Ohm resistance measured on the coil terminals if i solder a copper wire on the fuse receptacle) and if you could find a thermal fuse with identical specifications and size you could restore it to 100% functionality. I still have the clutch coil from an Harrison CVC compressor that suddenly stopped working and while the coil doesn't have any burn mark or oxidation at all (burn marks and oxidation are signs of clutch slipping) and the 14 year compressor is still perfectly working with a new clutch pulley assembly and a new coil (and i've also learned how to let it destroke and not make the throttle lag; just use recirculation and low blower speeds), the fuse looks like brand new but it somewhat opened (thermal cycling? vibrations? age? it worked for 8 years).
I never heard of a thermal fuse in line with a compressor clutch. Not saying there isn't one on some models, but the clutch is not really that expensive of an item and the clutch coil kind of acts like a safety fuse; because it will simply open up if there's an internal short.
The thermal fuse is put there by some coil manufacturers so that the compressor immediately (and permanently) disengages as soon as it begins to lock up and the clutch starts slipping (generating a lot of heat), without letting the serpentine belt slip on the pulley, stall the engine or potentially break or catch fire. Unfortunately, it often triggers without a real reason leaving you think the car needs a regas, then, frequently, either a useless regas gets done and then you're told the whole compressor is faulty and needs replacement, or a continuity check is done on the coil and you're immediately told the latter. More rarely, you find someone that, after thoroughly checking your system, agrees to service your compressor and, in that case, replace the coil (this happened to me), and even more rarely you have enough space in the engine bay to do the work yourself with no need to have the system evacuated and then regassed.
A thermal fuse is a fuse that is activated by external heat or high currents that cause it to heat up beyond its operating temperature. A clutch coil performs exactly the same. As soon as the clutch coil gets hot, the winding which is made up of very small windings will simply burn up and break the circuit; immediately releasing the clutch. Before a coil gets hot enough to trigger the thermal fuse, the coil will open circuit all by itself.
Keep in mind that if a compressor seizes up, neither the thermal fuse or the coil itself is going to break the circuit to protect the belt.
If they're putting thermal fuses in there, then it's just for legal reasons to excuse them from being liable for a car fire that was started for another reason, but the lawyers are trying to blame it on not having a fuse on the compressor, similar to the thermal fuses they put in coffee grinders and personal blenders. I have "fixed" dozens of these grinders and blenders by simply bypassing these thermal fuses that always seem to burn out for no apparent reason.
What if your lowside is high but your vehicle blows cold ac when driving. Compressor was replaced. Lowside was showing retard level. We used a snap on machine that vacuums and adds the freon (we added the correct amount) , replaced both valves and dryer on a 05 expedition. Could a pressure switch cause this? We blew the lines out, had no clogs.
Just came across this video very helpfull thanks for posting. Just a question does this compressor test apply if you have a clutchless compressor?
Many thanks.
Also make sure belt is not slipping on compressor...I ended up redoing an entire ac thinking compressor was shot..because I was a new bee and my mechanic friend swore it needed a new compressor. ..spend two days and $400 in parts verses just buying a $10 belt.
Lol. I only laugh because I been there. Done that. We all learn. Sometimes the easy way. Sometimes the hard way. But that, is called throwing the parts cannon at it. But i look at it as. At least it's new parts. Live and learn buddy. Best of luck to your
@@mikekendrick7901 yup... thats for sure...its all a learning experience...
air in hoses was NOT purged before turning on your AC for both cars!
You only need to purge the lines when filling the system not when checking pressures
@@zeke112964 what causes gauges not to purge? Upon attaching an opening valve on adapter to refrigerant can all I get is a slight hiss. And no refrigerant flowing through sight glass.
thanks now i know the my compressor is not good i like the way you explain how is working
Make sure you check all the electrical before replacing parts.
Hi my 2006 mazda 3s 2.3L A/C stops blowing cold after idle slow driving a/c works when im moving traffic fast car doesn't overheat / fans run / ac pressures good / new condenser / new dryer / new a/c clutch / New fans would you know what is my problem is ?
did the clutch engage... maybe thats why the pressure were equal.. ijs the gauge will move if the compressor is actually engaging in... pressure will be equal if the compressor does not engauge
I think the compressor not engaged .... check its clutch
The proper way to relieve the pressure is into water. Not into the atmosphere.
On mine the low side gauge is reading almost as high as the high side gauge. Then slowly the high side pressure increases. The high side valves on the compressor appear to be working as the high side tubing gets pretty hot to the touch. The low doesn't see to be doing anything, never pulls down. Hench, suspected Bad compressor...??
Was the compressor running while you had even readings on high and low? The reason I'm asking is because my clutch is engaging and these are the readings I'm getting.
My ac running doesn't stay at that low 40 high 200 ever time 15 seconds the high drops 110 and the low climbs to 60...no cold found any where
Can a compressor back flow to the accumulator ?
I don't get why it's the compressor... low side is high- doesn't that mean its working but the valve between the low/high side is leaking? If the compressor is not working wouldn't the pressure be low on both sides?
The pressure of the refergrant has to do with its temperature. If the refrigerant is saturated, you know its temperature by its pressure and pressure by its temperature. A saturated refrigerant is contained in a vessel and is simultaneously in a liquid and gaseous state, similar to ice in a glass of water.
A 'Thermal expansion valve' or TXV is a metering device controlled by the temperature of the evaporator coil. A warmer evaporator coil will cause the TXV to open up, allowing more refrigerant to pass through it.
The TXV is designed to and generally does fail shut, to prevent slugging the compressor. Slugging the compressor with liquid refrigerant will destroy it quickly!
The compressor can't compress a liquid. If there were no restriction in the metering device and the compressor was working, you would hear the compressor slugging.
SYMPTOMS OF A BAD TXV:
No cooling at all or only cooling when the temperatures are mild.
Short cycling of the compressor. TXV systems should cycle less than a fixed orifice system.
The Low side will read low, because there will be less than an optimal amount of refrigerant flashing through the evaporator coil. Remember the compressor sucks on the low side as much as it pushes on the hi side.
The high side will read normal, because there will be very little superheat to remove. It can store excess refrigerant in the filter drier.
The system can only equalize through the metering device. With the TXV stuck shut will not equalize for more than 30 minutes to an hour or longer after the system is shut down.
There is pressurized gas in the system so you should expect pressure at all times. Typical is ~100psi. Won't matter where you measure it in the system when the compressor isn't running. However, the whole point of the compressor is to push the refrigerant through a small orifice - so when functioning correctly, there will be low pressure (~50psi) on the inlet of the compressor, and high pressure (~150psi) on the outlet. Makes sense, right? The compressor oughtta be increasing the pressure! So, if both sides read the same - that implies the compressor ain't doing jack shit. So either the clutch isn't engaging, or the compressor itself is bad.
Compressor not working properly. What the heck is that supposed to mean? Are the pistons or whatever it uses shot , or is the dumb thing just not turning on?
How about one that’s just about worn out? What kind readings you get from that?
This is shot almost exactly like a Found Footage Horror Movie.
What style compressor was on the first Toyota you worked on? Was it a clutch cycling compressor or a variable control valve compressor with no clutch? Only reason I ask is because control valves on the Toyota compressors have a high failure rate. Also I think I would add I don't think I would make a call on a compressor that turned on and didn't build pressure until I knew the restriction in the system worked, in this case the expansion valve. Pretty easy to tell though, just use a pair of pliers and start to squeeze the high pressure rubber hose with the compressor running to see if pressure spikes. That is assuming of course the control valve is working...
Gaston Mechanic The Toyota comps have an electronic control valve. A bit different than the mechanical ones.
The first was different than the second, just like you say.
_I don't think I would make a call on a compressor that turned on and didn't build pressure until I knew the restriction in the system worked_
This had absolutely no pressure and no suction either. This means that either the compressor clutch isn't engaging or the compressor is totally dead. The low side service port is right next to the suction port of the compressor. If the TXV were stuck closed, there would be very low pressure on the low side because the compressor would be going into a vacuum. If it were stuck open, there would higher pressure there, but there would still be high pressure on the high side. Any restriction anywhere on the system will show up as some kind of difference between the two readings.
+jjenson2006 If the control system keeps the compressor fully destroked (nowadays car compressors are nearly always variable displacement ones; pretty only Dorin/Bitzer/Bock V piston bus compressors are still fixed displacement) the compressor can't build any pressure at all (since 5cm^3 displacement, the usual value for a fully destroked compressor, is not enough to build pressure). In that case the solution is just replacing the stroke control valve. Well, with clutchless compressors another thing can happen: you see the pulley still turning but the shaft severed itself due to the compressor locking up, and it won't pump at all either and the solution is a new compressor (to check, disassembly pulley) after a system flush and a new condenser and receiver drier.
Good luck finding a stroke control valve to replace the defective one. Any part on the compressor that prevents it from working is considered a failed compressor. The same argument could be made for a leaking seal. You could replace it if you could find the part, but it's still a failed compressor until the work is done.
Hi Roman, when I start my car pressure on both sides stay on normal range BUT then they both drop down to like half and it actually happened while my compressor is running. It just keep doing it. There is no cool air coming the whole process. What is the problem?
Low on charge
I'm confused. Is it R134a? Because the pressures for auto ac are between. 25-50 psig not 120...are you in the USA? I see your gauges are reading celcuis not Fahrenheit too...
Hi my 2006 mazda 3s 2.3L A/C stops blowing cold after idle slow driving a/c works when im moving traffic fast car doesn't overheat / fans run / ac pressures good / new condenser / new dryer / new a/c clutch / New fans would you know what is my problem is ?
2011 grand jeep cherokee
I vacuumed the system and added one can of freon
The low side pressure is 110 blowing hot air
Did you find issue? My car is doing the exact same thing! Any help would be appreciated!
@@jwatson181 yes it turned out to be a bad clutch so I changed the compressor!!
what about is my low side is 50
in my high side is 50 when the a/c is on
why my low side is 0 and high side is about 150 psi when the ac is off.??
when I turn it on it goes 35 psi for low side and 270 psi for high side..?? is it over charge or normal. consider the temperature here is about 35 C.
more or less normal
2000 jeep cherokee 4.0. wont take freon. Showing both wires on the compressor 1 ground that grounded to the comp. and 1 coming from the comp/coil. to have power. cking with a test light only. Shows both to be hot... Shows both inserts on the low side pressure switch/cycleing switch to be hot. If i try to bridge it over to cycle the clutch when the high side is hooked up it will blow the big 20 amp ac fuse. Also the electric fan When plugged in the fan is showing both wires to be hot the blue and black wires coming off the switch towards the fan. Unplugged shows 1 hot 1 ground cking in the switch inserts. Plug it up.. both wires coming out of the switch going to the fan show to be hot. Also 3 out of 4 inserts show hot on the high side pressure switch. Unplug high side switch/sensor then i get 1 hot 1 ground on the low side switch but bridge it over and still dont kick/cycle the clutch. Also the 1 wire coming off the wiring harness /plug has no power on it. Truck running ac turned on still no power, only when i connect the plugs together does that wire have power. Note... that i changed the compressor's i put a 96 cherokee on my 2000 cherokee but i had to change the backs out. the lines were run different. 96 back/ middle 2000 on top center. Also changed plug iends . the 2000 comp had 3 wires total. 2 coming from the coil/clutch and 1 ground and the 96 just 1 wire from the coil and 1 ground..can that makes a difference? The ac unit worked perfect in the 96 but i cant get it to take freon. I have had it vacuumed. The compressor is about 4 maybe 5 yrs old. but it worked fine in the 96. I need help Man... man...
A very good teaching video, but it will be best if remake in an HD video. I cannot see the pressure number because it is a blur.
This guy has no clue what he's doing.
you need to check compression sensor by to the filter before replace the compressor
2000 jeep cherokee 4.0. wont take freon. Showing both wires on the compressor 1 ground that grounded to the comp. and 1 coming from the comp/coil. to have power. cking with a test light only. Shows both to be hot... Shows both inserts on the low side pressure switch/cycleing switch to be hot. If i try to bridge it over to cycle the clutch when the high side is hooked up it will blow the big 20 amp ac fuse. Also the electric fan When plugged in the fan is showing both wires to be hot the blue and black wires coming off the switch towards the fan. Unplugged shows 1 hot 1 ground cking in the switch inserts. Plug it up.. both wires coming out of the switch going to the fan show to be hot. Also 3 out of 4 inserts show hot on the high side pressure switch. Unplug high side switch/sensor then i get 1 hot 1 ground on the low side switch but bridge it over and still dont kick/cycle the clutch. Also the 1 wire coming off the wiring harness /plug has no power on it. Truck running ac turned on still no power, only when i connect the plugs together does that wire have power. Note... that i changed the compressor's i put a 96 cherokee on my 2000 cherokee but i had to change the backs out. the lines were run different. 96 back/ middle 2000 on top center. Also changed plug iends . the 2000 comp had 3 wires total. 2 coming from the coil/clutch and 1 ground and the 96 just 1 wire from the coil and 1 ground..can that makes a difference? The ac unit worked perfect in the 96 but i cant get it to take freon. I have had it vacuumed. The compressor is about 4 maybe 5 yrs old. but it worked fine in the 96. I need help Man... man...
@@kevinferrell1739 I cannot understand the verbiage.
What is the good pressure for low side should we see in the low pressure meter when we refill the r134 gas?
Automotive systems are filled by weight not pressure....there is usually a sticker under the hood that tells you the weight of the charge needed or you can look it up in a repair manual
Why the compressor is not compressing the freon? Do you have an explanation why?My a.c. does that but why?
The rings go bad from wear and tear.
bed compresser high sise presser how much and low side psi how much figer
I have a ford Windstar hookup the gauge the low side is around 100 & the high side is 180 when the eng is running
The low side will not go down but the high side will go up, so do you think it's a compressor problem
alsteven44 sounds like your expansion valve or orface tube stuck open
2000 jeep cherokee 4.0. wont take freon. Showing both wires on the compressor 1 ground that grounded to the comp. and 1 coming from the comp/coil. to have power. cking with a test light only. Shows both to be hot... Shows both inserts on the low side pressure switch/cycleing switch to be hot. If i try to bridge it over to cycle the clutch when the high side is hooked up it will blow the big 20 amp ac fuse. Also the electric fan When plugged in the fan is showing both wires to be hot the blue and black wires coming off the switch towards the fan. Unplugged shows 1 hot 1 ground cking in the switch inserts. Plug it up.. both wires coming out of the switch going to the fan show to be hot. Also 3 out of 4 inserts show hot on the high side pressure switch. Unplug high side switch/sensor then i get 1 hot 1 ground on the low side switch but bridge it over and still dont kick/cycle the clutch. Also the 1 wire coming off the wiring harness /plug has no power on it. Truck running ac turned on still no power, only when i connect the plugs together does that wire have power. Note... that i changed the compressor's i put a 96 cherokee on my 2000 cherokee but i had to change the backs out. the lines were run different. 96 back/ middle 2000 on top center. Also changed plug iends . the 2000 comp had 3 wires total. 2 coming from the coil/clutch and 1 ground and the 96 just 1 wire from the coil and 1 ground..can that makes a difference? The ac unit worked perfect in the 96 but i cant get it to take freon. I have had it vacuumed. The compressor is about 4 maybe 5 yrs old. but it worked fine in the 96. I need help Man... man...
1:48 this is a bad air compressor. Agreed my ac compressor is also a bad air compressor.
Not necessarily bad but not pumping refrigerant.
So essentially at the end you’re releasing the Freon into the atmosphere?
all freons drop to the ground because they are heavier than air...the hole 134a scam is because of expired patent on R12....mention the word 'safe' and the people/sheeple become putty in the hands of the elite..R 134a is a very inefficient coolant compared to R12....
I got question my ac lines get really hot when I putting freon why I put a use ac compressor but now it did hot hot lines instead to get coold lines
Great video
That shows compressor not working at all. How can I test to see if it works but not good enough? Like weak compressor.
Shows how to hook up connections once again like every other video.
Should note it is illegal to vent refrigerant to the atmosphere, also if you don't have your Section 609 EPA certification and you are getting paid to work on A/C, you can get nailed with some staggeringly high fines, not to mention the absurd fine you can get nailed with for openly venting refrigerant.
Recovery equipment is one fo the best investments you can makes if you are even remotely interested in doing A/c work.
@Ayden Pham Tell that to the EPA, intentional release of refrigerant is still illegal even in small amounts.
@@herbertv827 I was told that there is a specific exemption for purging lines.
Need an emoji that does the "jerk off motion"
are you working on r-134a?
Static pressures ?
Thanks you
Question i am pretty sure i have a bad compressor since system is full and i checked everything else....looks like when i turn ac on compressor spins but only warm air and condenser and ac lines stay warm...I bought this truck like this but was told ac was real cold the day she bought it and next day it didnt blow cold any more....fuses and pressure switch are good and as i said compresser spins when ac is on,but when vehicle is off it seems to easy to turn by hand....can you tell me compressor can still be bad even though it seems to turn? thanks
You cannot tell if the compressor is bad by how easy it is to turn by hand. Depending on the compressor type, some are very easy to turn by hand, even if they are brand new. You need to hook up a gauge set and take some readings. Without that you cannot diagnose your system. If you don't have one, I believe auto stores such as Autozone lend them out free with a deposit.
thank u sir
I have some concern . My toyota vios 2006 ac is not cold when idle but when running the ac is cold. I just had my ac service recently charge freon, cleaning and new cabin filter.but still it's the same. you think the problem is expansion valve?
Same is the case with my car
I think expansion valve is chocked
Olu dara...The only illegal gas discharged was at 7:36. Lol
The first one was not functioning at all...dead compressor. .
My compressor turns but does not cool and both sides have about the same pressure
Mine's doing the same- What was your end result?
I replace compressor works great now
A lot of time spent on turning knobs. Not sure if your clutch was even turning you never mentioned it.
my acura tl 05 ac was working fine one day then it stop working that day and then work again and now it just stop working and i dont know whats wrong it was blowing cold air too so i dont know what it is
My system holds vacuum and my compressor clutch will engage and run for several seconds before turning off. My high pressure reading is very low (50lbs). The compressor kicks on, but does this mean my compressor is not compressing the refrigerant?
SWEEET VID 🚹, 👍 👍
Any issues with the HF gauge set?
They are not the best, but they work. The plastic is a little brittle.
If you put your gauges on and you see those numbers you want to check to see if the compressor is kicking on or not if it's not there are plenty of reasons why short of a bad compressor. This guy doesn't know what he's talking about. You shouldn't follow his advice.
it's 2016 bro; your viewers don't like squinting to see a rough 480p video. every smartphone has HD camera since like 2009. good video content however.
The camera is HD, the software makes it look like that. Good news though, you can donate to my channel and I'll buy some new software and camera.
What if your lowside is high but your vehicle blows cold ac when driving. Compressor was replaced. Lowside was showing retard level. We used a snap on machine that vacuums and adds the freon (we added the correct amount) , replaced both valves and dryer on a 05 expedition. Could a pressure switch cause this? We blew the lines out, had no clogs.
Your Radiator fans don’t turn on check the relays
My low side is fine but my high side is way too low
I'm not a mechanic, but it seems like that's a problem of low refrigerant/leaking.
high pressure 230 minimum low pressure 35. Minimum in golf
Mushtaq sahib.
Can we remove expansion valve?
Does it works with out expansion valve
Shah Fahad lol no man you can’t the expansion valve it’s a main component in ac system
110
@@gabrielmerza6904 what's the symptoms if it is clogged ?
Compressor not compresion
R u epa certified
@romanautomotive
Why do you ask?
RomanAutomotive why did you release to atmosphere think of your children.i hope someone reports your video and your prosecuted.
Most front end collisions will puncture the condenser and release freon charge to atmosphere. Pretty sure he'll be fine.
fuck the epa
If I hear the word “properly” one more time, I will puke.
i have a question, what if the low side sits around 50 to 60 psi at idle and when you rev it up to 2000 rpm, then it goes to 25 to 30 psi and when at idle, it won't get as cold, will stay at 50 degrees. i already replaced the compressor thinking it's not working properly at idle and i replaced my evaporator and expansion valve because the evaporator was leaking... what do you think it could be causing it to not pump at idle?
the reading s in the low side is normal for a 134a gas , you should check your reading on the high side pressure ,