How To Hang and Trim Out Pocket Door Johnson Hardware 1500
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- Опубліковано 10 лип 2024
- How to hang and put jamb and casing trim on a Johnson Hardware 1500 pocket door opening. I like the soft close 1060 kit as well and show how to install that too. It's relatively easy to hang a pocket door yourself and trim it out.
amzn.to/2qiQbUv Here is where you can find the Pocket door frame kit.
amzn.to/2A7h2T2 Here you can get the 1060 soft open and close rollers, they are sweet!
• How To Install a Pocke... here's the first video I did of installing the frame before drywall.
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I hope this video helped you. Thanks for watching. - Навчання та стиль
Thanks you, Paul, for including the measurements: I went through 3 videos beg=fore finally coming onto this one to find the measurements I needed!
You’re welcome. Good luck!
Super helpful video! Thank you for such a detailed account of how it all goes together. I actually think I can do this myself now lol! 🙌🏻
Thank you! I’m glad if it helped. I hope It goes well for you.
Thanks for the details of your video. It's given me a lot better idea of how to pull all this together.
Awesome I’m glad. Good luck with it.
Looks great.....I have the exact same pocket doors as well as the soft open and soft close rollers. Right now doing trim. As you said it's much easier to paint up in the track before trim is installed to not have to worry about overspray. I just used some flat black rustoleum spray paint on my tracks. But overall your setup looks great. Hope mine turns out just as nice 😊
Thank you! Good luck with yours! 😊
That's a great tip about the baseboard and short nails I've made that mistake before. Now I just glue the baseboard there
Thanks. Yes glueing with pl or some type of construction adhesive is a good idea. 👍
An alternative to cutting a relief in the jamb is to space it off of the stud with a few 1/4 in shims. Nice job on your door.
Thanks 👊
Great video, thanks for sharing.
Thank you 🙏
Very helpful, thanks! Since I'm tight on space (cutting down 32" doors for 30" frames), can I forego the frame's rubber bumper with the soft open hardware?
Thank you! I believe so with the soft open feature. You can hang it and test it out to be sure before trimming it out completely.
Super nice. Thank you.
Thank you I’m glad if you liked it!
Awesome video!!!
Thank you!
Thank you for the Video... my question is about screwing the metal parts to the Top of the door, in my case it seems to split the wood even when I predrill pilot holes. The doors I wanted to install are Hollow... did you use Solid wood doors?
You’re welcome. Yes my doors were solid instead of hollow core. It seems like the top would have a couple inches of solid though even if it’s hollow core. Sounds like you may just have a door that has a very splitty piece of wood. I’m not sure what to tell you except maybe try pre-drilling it and getting a screw that’s bigger thread and a little more aggressive to hopefully hold it on better. I’ve never seen this done but you could think about maybe applying a little construction adhesive under it before fastening it to help hold it on better once it cures. Just a thought.
Thank you this helped me. My only question that I don’t see you mentioning; is there a bottom track? How do you keep door from swinging at the bottom?
Thank you! No track but there is a little guide you can fasten at the bottom on both sides.
Excellent!!!
Thank you!
your awesome bro. thanx man !!!
Thank you!
Awesome videos Paul. They are really going to help this DIYer when I attempt this project soon. Quick question, I hear a popping noise when you first pull the door closed and I think when you open it too. Does that noise always happen, or did it only happen in your video because you don't have the handle on and had to pull the door from the top? The reason I'm asking is because this will be installed in the doorway going from the Master bedroom into the Bathroom. My significant utter is a light sleeper, so I have to be able to nearly silently open and close the door right now. I think that popping noise might be an issue.
Thanks! So yes it does make that noise some every time. It’s not as loud as on the video I don’t think but it’s there. What it is is the soft open and soft close feature on these doors engaging and disengaging. If you’re really concerned about it you could just not use that option and use regular rollers that come with it.
The sound will wake my 2 year old up even with his sound machine going, but to be fair his bed is close. The rollers will be noisy on any pocket door as well. I just go slow and stop before the soft close engages, it will leave the door open a couple inches but that's your only option. In my opinion the non soft close rollers are more quiet than soft close. Unless someone slams them open or closed lol
Thanks for this
You’re welcome
I use lightweight spackle to caulk the holes. It doesn't shrink like caulk and it's easily applied and sanded. ( I use an old credit card to apply it). It also dries rather quickly.
Thanks for sharing your tips!
What CAN'T one use lightweight spackle for? I smeared it on some rough plywood facing to make it a paint-ready surface and it seems to be holding up a year later...
That’s too funny 😄
Do you need to finish the wall before hanging the door? I know the instructions say to finish the wall first, but if the door/pocket requires any adjustment, it'll be too late. What's your experience?
I suppose you could probably hang it and test it out and then take it back off. As long as everything is level and straight it should be OK without doing that because you shim your casing to make it straight with the door once it’s hung. But it’s pretty easy to pop it back off before hanging drywall and getting it messy if you want to make sure.
Would love to see a bit more around minute 6:52, how you packed down around the track, to support the revealed split trim at the top of the door. It looks like you packed down with wood cut to depth to match side vertical jamb tops, then trimmed onto that with the revealed split trim pieces supported into the packing, which in turn is supported into the same header the track mounts on. I guess the door top trim pieces are the same stock (or ripped-to-width) as the vertical split trim?
Sorry I missed this one somehow. I believe you are correct with your explanation. The main thing on pocket doors I like to put the top split pieces in last because if you ever need to adjust the wheels on the track, you can remove those without taking apart the whole top.
Great job 👍🏼 Would love to see an interior and exterior house tour
Thanks! Yes it’s on my list for future videos. I’ve been trying to get it done. I hope to before too long.
Great I look forward to it!
Top casing would look a tad better if it was thicker.
Thanks for making a solid video.
Depends on the size of the door but Yes it could. We decided to do all the interior doors smaller and the exterior doors bigger. Thanks
Great job. one question. It seems hard to pull the door open. I've seen pocket doors in others people's houses and always struggle to find the latch to pull the door open , especially ones with a soft close system holding the door tight. What pull system do you use to solve this?
Thanks. I know what you mean. I actually haven’t gotten around to installing it yet cuz life… I was going to install one like this with a built In pull. Idh by St. Simons 25411-10B Solid Brass Pocket Privacy Pull, Oil-Rubbed Bronze www.lowes.com/pd/idh-by-St-Simons-Idh-by-St-Simons-25411-10B-Solid-Brass-Pocket-Privacy-Pull-Oil-Rubbed-Bronze/5000746683
On their webpage it says that 2 of the 1060 kits are required if you want a soft open and a soft close. Did I miss this in the video? I thought you only installed one 1060 kit and your door has both soft open and soft close. Thank you, Im about to add one of these to my bathroom along with a complete remodel.
No that is correct you need 2, one for open and one for close.
Thanks for all 3 videos. I had a Cavity Slider put in at a friends house I was getting fixed up. He wanted the best and CS seem to be the cadillac of pocket doors. I'm putting in a J&J bathroom between two bedrooms for my grandkids. I don't need a cadillac. :-) I picked up two of these 1500 kits along with the soft open/close mechanisms. I bought the door guides that will run in a slot on the bottom. I'm also installing on a slab as you did so these videos were really helpful. I saw that Johnson had a Jam Kit, but it looks like you just used a standard jam and ripped it to where you needed it. Was that the case? Thanks again.
Thank you. Yes I ended up just ripping my own.
Rollers look cheap and sound noisy. Soft close really helps!🥰
Do they offer rollers on ball bearings?🤔
But I would love to see the handle you install!
They actually aren’t noisy and have held up great so far. I didn’t put on a handle yet it’s on my list 🙊
For the trim and casing on the pocket side you used screws to the metal stud? If you cover up the screw heads, how you will remove it later?
Yes, I pre-drilled with a smaller sized drill bit to get it started and then used trim head screws and since it was paint grade trim, I puttied over the heads. If you ever have to remove it, you’ll have to dig the putty out of the heads.
Any idea WHY johnson says not to install a dado jamb? It seems like it would be perfect for bathroom privacy.
This has been incredible!!! Did you do a video of attaching the drywall by chance?
Thank you. No I didn’t because someone else installed the drywall. The main thing is to use really short screws. You’ll have a hard time going through the steel on the backside of those anyway with longer screws but you want to use short screws so it doesn’t damage your door.
@@SmartEasyDIYer The kits include self tapping drywall screws now for the metal. They don't go too far in.
Awesome thanks for the info that’s great to know!
Did you put in a soft open as well? If so, how did you put in the bracket that goes in the channel?
Yes I did soft open as well. You have to do it when you can still access before drywall or else you have to cut a hole in the drywall after the fact. ua-cam.com/video/5UmO1IwYGk0/v-deo.html this video shows the installation.
When you first hung the door, it would recess/close past the door jamb. In the final reveal, it closes flush with the jamb. Is there something to adjust that sets that?
I think maybe I had to adjust the soft close for that 3/4” thickness difference. You can do that with that wrench or screwdriver I believe before finishing off the top piece.
@@SmartEasyDIYer Thanks - I was hoping it was a hardware adjustment, and not a re-cut(s).
great video! - can you send the soft close link again - there are many on Amazon - the ones you used looked plastic - are they? - thanks!
Thanks Bob. Yes here’s the link again. It’s also in the video description below the video. amzn.to/2A7h2T2 it’s the Johnson Hardware 1060 soft close. The wheels are a white plastic of some kind yes.
Paul, I enjoyed watching your videos on pocket door installation. I have installed a few myself in my home. You videos were detailed and answered a few questions I had around trimming them out. What is that grey color name that you painted in the second room towards the end of this video? Thanks -Kyle
Hey thanks Kyle. Do you mean the one on the other side of the pocket door where the towels are hanging? It’s kinda greyish blue. A lot more blue than it shows in this video. It’s a beautiful color. Did you see my latest walkthrough video? That shows it better. Anyways it’s a Lowe’s Valspar color called midnight fog ci197 but we got it with a satin Sherwin-Williams paint since they carry that as well.
Hey There! Awesome video. I'm working on trimming out a home for a builder. Drywall has already been installed around the pocket door frame, and now the homeowners want to add the soft close system. does that same bracket that catches it to close need to be installed on the opposite side as well, for soft opening? Wondering if I'm going to have to cut out drywall to attach it to the non exposed area of the frame. Thanks!
Hi JJ. Yes the soft open needs to be installed inside the other end of the track. I did a video on that before the drywall was installed. I’ll try to link that. ua-cam.com/video/5UmO1IwYGk0/v-deo.html In the comments someone had said they were able to do it without opening the drywall but I don’t remember how. It seems like it will need to be opened to access it and then patched.
Actually yes read the top pinned comment on that other video.
@@SmartEasyDIYer Thank you! I typed too soon, and then saw you answered it already after I posted. Thank you anyways! used 5 extensions to get the back bracket installed
Wow ok great I’m glad you got it. Thanks for sharing your experience too.
Thanks. I had impression from video that I could swap in the soft close rollers with no other modifications to my existing track. Sounds like there's a piece back inside the wall that engages? I prolly will open some wallboard to install a spacer where my bumper lands so that the door is flush in the split trim when fully opened, anyway...
Did you use any bottom door guides? Typically I like to install the channel into the underside of the door (easier with 1-3/4'' thick doors) then put the guide pin on the ground. Johnson system just suggests routing a channel on the underside of the door without a channel and hiding the exposed groove with a cover plate.
I didn’t end up doing one yet. I haven’t gotten around to it. My one problem is I have concrete floor so I wasn’t sure how I was going to fasten it yet.
@@SmartEasyDIYer I did it with tapcons. No wobble in the door and no scraping on the bottom with the other type of guides.
Paul, great video!
I notice that you show adding the stop that goes onto the rail for the soft close at the very end.
I didn't see you install the one at the other end for the soft open?
I'm considering using this but my walls are finished.
Ty
Yes this is kind of a follow up video. If you check my channel I have a video about the install of the soft close. You need to do it before the walls are finished or else you have to cut a hole in the wall to put them in.
Knowing that eventually the wheels will flatten out, or the soft close damper will fail, I cut out and installed a 6x9 mud-in flush access panel at the far end of the track on one side. You could do the same for a finished wall if you wanted to add the additional soft open feature/hardware.
That sounds like a great idea. Especially on the closet side you’d never notice it.
@@danervin2530 Great Idea, but is it necessary? The only thing you need to access from the closed end is the stopper arm. Once it's installed, the only thing touching it is the plastic piece on the rolling soft open mechanism. If the rollers flatten out, or bearings jam up or whatever, we know they will!!, you can get to them from the opening side, just take the door off and loosen the soft close catch arm, then take out the rollers and replace them. Great system, just have to have the one piece done beforehand.
What happens when someone push it real hard thinking its a swing door? Does the lower left side swing inwards?
It’s quite sturdy. The back part stays inside the trim so it can’t move far.
You call a cab to take their drunk ass home.
Probably a dumb question but the Johnson pocket door frame I have didn’t have wood inside the metal studs. Did you add that yourself or did I screw up something? Just curious about how to attach trim without it. Thanks
Hey I’ve heard some of the newer versions of this is so metal. Haven’t seen it myself. I think maybe they include some metal screws for that?
@@SmartEasyDIYer As of Jan 2020 they were supposed to all come with metal studs. Supposed to make it stiffer and able to handle heavier doors.
Awesome
Thanks!
what type of glue did you use for the baseboard.
I think pl premium if I remember correctly. That’s my favorite.
How did you install the actuators?
ua-cam.com/video/5UmO1IwYGk0/v-deo.htmlsi=RLGaqzudcA8lcsPh
This video will hopefully help.
My wife wants a pocket door, I'm reluctant. My fear, I will be annoyed when trying to pull it out, to close it, that you will always have to stop, use the tips of your fingers, pry it out of the jam to start it closing. Is there a way, to keep it about one inch out, ALL THE TIME, when the door is open? Watching your soft opening video, what if I installed the back "opening stopper thing" about one inch farther out (towards the opening) then the instructions indicated. Would that keep the door always out and easier to grab? Thank you!
Yes you could potentially do that. The other thing is most pocket door latches that you get have a pull that sticks out you can grab onto and pull the door out. Like this example www.primeline.net/n-7367-deluxe-pocket-door-privacy-lock-pull-3-34-satin-nickel
What type of door? Hollow core Masonite? Or?
This one is solid core.
Can you show the other side of the door where it closes. I didn’t see any details on that side and that’s what I’m most interested in
I don’t have a video but I may be able to email you a pic or send it on insta or fb if you wanna message me.
Wow that’s rough! Good information though
Thank you
Have the frame and everything installed, but having a hard time actually getting the door hung and attached to the rollers. But all of the videos seem to cut away and not show the actual hanging of the door, lol
I hope you got it figured out OK. I don’t really remember but it is kind of awkward to show hanging it.
@@SmartEasyDIYer I did eventually. Took a comically long time though, lol.
😂👍
ouch, door cracked. make sure to pre-drill
I know I've made myself a trim snob... but that 1x4 trim makes my heart hurt. You can get some nice window/door casing for less than $1/board foot.
I get it lol. It matches the rest of the house 😁
@@SmartEasyDIYer good job on the video.
Thank you!