Another great video. I’ve always eye-balled the center with varying amounts of luck. Your centering idea when using a drill press is perfect. This info is timeless. Thx.
Thank you for taking the time and making the effort to showing us how to make the drill guides without using a lathe. I watched the video of how to remove broken bolts and saw the drill guides. Since then I've been racking my brain on how to make the drill guides without a lathe. And voila, you show me how to. You remind me so much of my late grandad, who made the effort to always showing me alternatives to how to get a job done properly. Indeed I am touched by your kindness and thoughtfulness.
Good video! About 30 years in industrial maintenance here, and I really like all the suggestions for doing something so seemingly simple. "There's more than one way to skin a cat" comes to mind, and I have had to do this several times over the years, and it seems I've had to do it several different ways because of circumstances and the resources available. One thing I would like to point out, though, especially to folks on the Western side of the Atlantic, is that by and large, the most common SHCS (socket head cap screw) over here is usually found in the 'black oxide' variety, and the vast majority of them are hard as hell - pretty much equivalent to Grade 10. The reason I bring this up is because a normal HSS drill will usually have a hella time drilling through a bolt like that, so I suggest using at least a Cobalt bit, or (if you're stacked with cash) a carbide bit. Even a TiN or TAlN drill would be better than a HSS, but still you're gonna stand a good chance of burning it up if you're not careful. One thing you CAN do, however, is just get a skank Grade 3 or lower hex head bolt, grind the markings flat off the top, and drill it. You can even do that with a "bright" drill with little problem.
Yes~ all I have seen around my town is the black oxide ones as well so I will be doing what you said about using crummy regular bolts to make some and thanks for that tip also.
100% accurate. In USA / Canada set / cap bolts are almost tool steel hardness. Your suggestion is what I've come around to doing, after some burned / broken bits.....
What a great video - its so practical. Once you make several of these in the most common sizes you are ready to tackle bolts that are broken off deep into some type of machine etc. whenever they come your way! thx! very practical!
This is one of the best DIY channels on UA-cam, if not THE best. I consider myself a pretty handy guy and as someone who's well into the process of restoring a 25 year old car, I thought that I knew everything there was to know about removing broken bolts, but this video and the last one taught me things that I didn't know. In fact I pick up at least one tip or trick from almost every video that you upload. Keep up the great work!
I just did this for the first time yesterday, but I simply used a square to plumb the bit of bolt in the vice. It actually wasn't perfectly centered at entry, but, with luck, it was centered as it came through, and I was able to use the bolt guide to drill the broken bolt in the head of a Honda minivan with an angle drill attachment for my 1/4" impact driver. I have removed many broken bolts in my time, always freehand, with varying degrees of success in avoiding damage to threads. But this bolt was so small, and the owner had already ruined any chance of doing it that was, that I was obliged to improvise, and I came up with the hollow bolt guide out of necessity. It worked brilliantly. This technique shown here in the video is useful, showing how to do it correctly for absolute precision. Great!
Came across this video and you saved me. Had to drill a 3mm hole in an M6 bolt. The 2 nuts in the vice and drill press worked great. Thankyou. Awesome work
Thank you. I made a guide using your instructions on a honda outboard and used the overlying thermostat casing as further protection. It worked like a charm. Beautiful center hole bite. I was dreading it but your method made it fairly easy. Much appreciated
Tony Papantoniou. On a larger scale they make excellent steel door frame adjusters/ fixing points. The frame is made smaller than the opening and then with appropriate holes you adjust these to square up the frame in the aperture before drilling through for a fixings.
A bit late, but I just found your video. I tried it and it worked perfectly. Took about five minutes to make the jig and do the setup. So easy. THANK YOU.
Normally, I wouldn't touch anything called "Ultimate", but your well paced narration, excellent skill, not to mention Scottish burr, sold me on a subscription!
Very nice solution to a rea l problem. I usually take a drill Chuck that I mounted to a flat plate and set it on the drill press table. Then I chuck a rod in the drill press and the other end in the chuck on the table. Then I clamp the lower chuck to the table. Now I chuck my bolt in the drill press and my bit in the lower chuck and drill away. The chips fall out of the hole nicely and I can drill different sizes without changing my setup.
Standard hardware store bits. New ones. Must admit, they blunt down quicker than they did years ago. Even drilling sheet steel and they don't last that long. Have to keep on sharpening them.
Ultimate Handyman I’m with you I was a tool maker I heard you say a comment in regard to the Drill bit wandering I have used core drills to maintain concentricity in the diameter as well in the distant past !!!!
Brilliant! I’ve been trying to come up with a method for doing what you showed in this video and now I know. I will have a go myself following your example. Thank you.
Nice. One other suggestion is to invert the whole thing, use the drill press as the lathe for the bolt, and get the drill bit standing up from below, then lower the bolt onto the vise-clamped drill bit. That seems to be optimal. That way any flexing of the target tends to be self-centering at the hole. Not my idea, a suggestion from another channel.
I did something similar on my mill for a guy. He had a couple of reloading plates that he wanted 3 stations drilled and tapped bigger to load 50 cal. I centered the spindle in between a table slot and screw a tap into the threads all ready their and then put it in the collet chuck and bolted it to the table. I could then drill and tap it with perfect alignment. Good video! 👍
It's really not an easy job removing a seized bolt. I tried under my truck and behind the diff to get at diff plug. As a DYI'er it's not easy believe me. And it takes more than a "trick". You need an acetylene torch, the proper bits, powerful drills, etc. (I'm sure I missed 5 other things). I'm awaiting a call from John, my mechanic as I write this. David Alberta
Another very informative video, thank you - an excellent accompaniment to your other one on removing broken bolts. I will try both methods myself to make a set of these! 🙂
Now this is a great tip! I simply love it. I’ll pass this one around to my friends for sure. For accuracy this is the best way. I’ve tried it other ways like the comments that are posted here by others but your way is to the most accurate way. You should make these and sell them. Are they already on the market by someone?
A strong tip about drilling in center line and straight: Spin the work and hold the drill bit. It's self-centering like spinning a basketball on your finger will self align on your fingertip. So if i had bare tools and no drill-press or lathe, I'd chuck the drill in a bench-vice and spin the bolt a hand-drill and in the initial step feel when it's centered as the wobble goes away. BTW, the lathe does the same thing.. spins the work. Spinning the work will ensure a hole true to the rotation axis of the work. While spinning the drill will get a hole true to the rotation axis of the bit which is in no way dependent to the work so great care must be taken like in this video to setup the axis of the bit to the work. The other way around is much more easy and non-dependent to careful alignment of the parts before drilling. You will feel that if the bolt will try to spin offcenter to the drill point it will wobble the whole drill and work or likely just slip and bend/break the drill bit Also by spinning the piece you can drill a straight hole with a bent drill bit. not best combo but is possible much more than the other way around as the drill will just skip and skate around by the offcenter rotation of the bent drillbit.
So if I'm following you correct the stationary drill will flex to stay on the centerline of the rotating part if it's off center and cause it to wiggle which you can feel in the handheld drill, but if you're centered dead straight it will be smooth, giving you a heads up that it needs adjustment to stay straight... Very intuitive!
I have a little Jacobs chuck from a scrapped hand drill bolted to a bit of square bar to hold a stationary drill bit centred on the drill press chuck with a scrap of 6mm bar clamped in both chucks so it all stays centred even if I swap the drill bit for a different size.
I have never seen your way of thinking or doing things. Not to say someone else is not thinking of some of the same solutions as yourself, but I just have not seen them. I would love a metal lathe but that is not in the forecast at the moment. But maybe a drill press would be more affordable. Appreciate your time to share your ideas and methods....so very helpful. Jesus bless.
A great idea if the fastener breaks off below the surface and there is some thread to screw this guide into. I can’t actually remember the last time I had one like this though. I work on fork lift trucks and often have to remove broken fasteners, wheel studs etc, but they usually break at or above the surface. (Usually not far above to easily remove, however!) This isn’t a criticism, just an observation and I would certainly knock up one of these if the chance presented itself as we do have a pillar drill in the workshop.
In fact, it's converting your drill press -- everyone has one of those, of course -- into a lathe. Functionally, anyway; the table could just as easily hold the drill bit stationary, and the chuck rotate the bolt. The chuck, being captive and constrained, provides registration for both bit and workpiece… There's an argument for rotating the bolt: the swarf falls away. I was expecting a bit of magic for doing this trick hand-held. Only mildly disappointed.
I have looked everywhere for these kind of guides after the last video, but not able to find any. Unfortunately I do not have the tools to make them myself 😶
Ah yes, that awful sinking feeling as you remove a nut on an engine manifold and feel the stud snap 😁. Nice to have a solution other than giving it up to a garage.
Brilliant tip. Bit of advice from a former expert at breaking hacksaw blades. Mild steel. 50 strokes a minute only and lube, I know of a guy who cut 12×12 inch rsj with only a hack saw .slower the cut the faster the work.
Again fantastic guide! I rally appreciate you sharing your skills 🙂 you should sell sets of drilling guides online 😁 i would order a set right away! Cheers, and thanks again
I'm going to do this to a flange bolt and then thread some wires through it and fill the remaining space with epoxy to make an electrical passthrough into a vacuum chamber. This was a really nice tutorial.
What I do is I drill a hole slightly smaller than the size of the bolt on a block of wood then screw the bolt into the hole and drill through with the smaller drill bit. Center every time.
@@pauleohl Yup. Maybe start off with a centre drill to get the hole centred.. I also have a spare chuck from a hand drill which I screw a bolt into the base of and then fasten the bolt head into the drill vise. It is however a bit of a buggeration getting cutting fluid up the spout...
I have a Craftsman drill press that has red LED laser crosshairs, but of course I live in a 1st world country.....yikes... Next let's invent the wheel.
You can also do the opposite: clamp the drill upside down in the vice (using the chuck of the drill) and then put the bolt in the chuck. The fact that the work is spinning rather than the tool enhances the self-centring effect, just like with the lathe.
Or you could clamp a piece of hardwood to the drill press table, drill a hole in it a little less than the diameter of the bolt, then screw in the bolt then drill your center hole.
at about 5:27, the chuck holding the drill bit shows a little wobble but the drill bit does not. Can anyone say whats going on? Or is it just optical illusion?
Same phenomena as aircraft propellers running backwards on videos. The camera takes pictures at a rate that is in some way almost in sync with the rotating object.
It's an illusion from the frames per second the camera films at, and the lighting in the workshop, its probably got a name I'm sure someone will come along and say in more detail.
The drill bit is not perfectly straight to begin with, hence the wobble, or not placed perfectly centred (but I doubt that is the cause). The wobble gets worst when drilling with very high forward force, plus high temperature due to high friction cutting.
That's given me a plan to drill a small hole centrally through a shaft. Many thanks. That sounds like a Blackburn accent. My mother came from Cherry tree. 😀
This was great to see how it's done and you kept it going at just the right pace with only pertinent statements. I want to see your other videos so of course I subscribed so I won't miss any others. Thanks for your excellent work on these videos~!!
Fro the title and key frame, I thought you were just making vented bolts and I was going to post a McMaster link like a smartass. Good method and it's always satisfying to use a tool you made yourself.
Well that’s nice if you have a lath, a shop, a drill press, but if your out in the field working on something without all this fine equipment, show me how to drill center of bolt with a hand drill then I will be impressed. Good video for those with the equipment. Stay safe.👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Excelent, well done, congratulations, seems that you have been around for a while, very neat indeed, to you an everyone that one way or another collaborated to make it possible and shear it with us, most kind of you, please keep up the good work, from Puerto Rico to you. .....Jesus Torres
I think that was a very good result, I'm going to try it out with a smaller drill size to test for runout, it would be handy for cable adjusters etc, thank you, very useful setup.
I watched the video where you used this guide to drill broken bolts. I worked as a marine and automotive mechanic for a number of years. The toughest part is getting the initial hole centered. 'Eyeballing' it will likely not work very well in my experience. This and the hinge bit are the most effective solutions I've seen for getting the drill centered on a bolt broken down in a threaded hole. The method of centering the bolt in the drill press is equally impressive. Now... What about a bolt broken off flush? The same challenge exists with getting the drill centered in the broke bolt, but there isn't anything to screw a guide into.
Thanks David, I normally try to centre punch the hole in the dead centre by eye balling it, if the broken bolt is jagged, I normally use a flap disc in a grinder to flap it so that the surface is flat. In the past I have super-glued a nut of the correct diameter over the broken bolt to help with centering the centre punch or drilling the centre. Thanks for the comment 👍
@@ultimatehandyman Thank you is the season to spread happiness😀👍but not Covid-19😷 stay well stay safe and grumpy if the other seven dwarfs are in quarantine😂 🎄☃️❄️
nice video , thanks for sharing . Several decades ago I bored a few grade 8 bolts ( 1" x 8 tpi x 2.50" long ) . No lathe and several cobalt bits later it was achieved . Not withstanding a few fubars , lol . thanks again for sharing .
Good video. I have seen using a piece of wood too. Drill a smaller than bolt diameter hole with wood secured to table. Then screw in bolt and sell through. Thanks for a more secure approach
What you called a "pillar drill" at approx. 0:42 in is what we here in America call a drill press. And, unfortunately, most of us either don't own one of those nor have access to one. Not meant as a snarky comment; just a point of information. Your videos are a great reference source and are interesting to watch, nonetheless. I always learn something new or am reminded of techniques I learned in Shop classes many years ago. Thanks for posting them.
Thanks, it's easier to make one on the lathe, but I showed the drill press too as it might help some people. If you have neither a local engineering firm will be able to make them for you and should not charge much 😉 Thanks for the comment 👍
Another great video. I’ve always eye-balled the center with varying amounts of luck. Your centering idea when using a drill press is perfect. This info is timeless. Thx.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
Agreed that alignment method is really smart!
Thank you for taking the time and making the effort to showing us how to make the drill guides without using a lathe. I watched the video of how to remove broken bolts and saw the drill guides. Since then I've been racking my brain on how to make the drill guides without a lathe. And voila, you show me how to. You remind me so much of my late grandad, who made the effort to always showing me alternatives to how to get a job done properly. Indeed I am touched by your kindness and thoughtfulness.
I'm glad the video's are useful ;-)
Thanks for the comment
Idem
Good video!
About 30 years in industrial maintenance here, and I really like all the suggestions for doing something so seemingly simple.
"There's more than one way to skin a cat" comes to mind, and I have had to do this several times over the years, and it seems I've had to do it several different ways because of circumstances and the resources available.
One thing I would like to point out, though, especially to folks on the Western side of the Atlantic, is that by and large, the most common SHCS (socket head cap screw) over here is usually found in the 'black oxide' variety, and the vast majority of them are hard as hell - pretty much equivalent to Grade 10.
The reason I bring this up is because a normal HSS drill will usually have a hella time drilling through a bolt like that, so I suggest using at least a Cobalt bit, or (if you're stacked with cash) a carbide bit.
Even a TiN or TAlN drill would be better than a HSS, but still you're gonna stand a good chance of burning it up if you're not careful.
One thing you CAN do, however, is just get a skank Grade 3 or lower hex head bolt, grind the markings flat off the top, and drill it. You can even do that with a "bright" drill with little problem.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Yes~ all I have seen around my town is the black oxide ones as well so I will be doing what you said about using crummy regular bolts to make some and thanks for that tip also.
100% accurate. In USA / Canada set / cap bolts are almost tool steel hardness. Your suggestion is what I've come around to doing, after some burned / broken bits.....
What a great video - its so practical. Once you make several of these in the most common sizes you are ready to tackle bolts that are broken off deep into some type of machine etc. whenever they come your way! thx! very practical!
This is one of the best DIY channels on UA-cam, if not THE best. I consider myself a pretty handy guy and as someone who's well into the process of restoring a 25 year old car, I thought that I knew everything there was to know about removing broken bolts, but this video and the last one taught me things that I didn't know. In fact I pick up at least one tip or trick from almost every video that you upload. Keep up the great work!
I'm glad you find the videos useful ;-)
Thanks for the comment
…you have a giant lathe, like this?
I just did this for the first time yesterday, but I simply used a square to plumb the bit of bolt in the vice. It actually wasn't perfectly centered at entry, but, with luck, it was centered as it came through, and I was able to use the bolt guide to drill the broken bolt in the head of a Honda minivan with an angle drill attachment for my 1/4" impact driver.
I have removed many broken bolts in my time, always freehand, with varying degrees of success in avoiding damage to threads. But this bolt was so small, and the owner had already ruined any chance of doing it that was, that I was obliged to improvise, and I came up with the hollow bolt guide out of necessity. It worked brilliantly.
This technique shown here in the video is useful, showing how to do it correctly for absolute precision. Great!
👍
Thank you, you have shown a very handy technique of centering without fancy tools. This would come in handy for a home DIY or small shop.
You are welcome ;-)
Thanks for the comment
@@ultimatehandyman
⁷
Absolutely brilliant, never thought of this! Saw your video this morning and literally used it at work today! (power station annual shutdown)
I'm delighted that it was of use to you ;-)
Best of luck with the shutdown.
Thanks for the comment
Excellent step by step to making a guide 👍👍 keep up the good work.
Thanks for the comment
Came across this video and you saved me. Had to drill a 3mm hole in an M6 bolt. The 2 nuts in the vice and drill press worked great. Thankyou. Awesome work
I’m glad you found the video useful
Thanks for the comment 👍
So easy, so accurate and no extra tool or jig needed. Perfect, to keep in mind.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Very informative. Thanks for showing the second method for those of us without a lathe.
Glad it was helpful!
Nicely done, that was a well thought out setup for the drill press!
Thanks, I thought it might help a few people that don't have access to a lathe.
Thanks for the comment
Plpppppppppppppppp
Thank you. I made a guide using your instructions on a honda outboard and used the overlying thermostat casing as further protection. It worked like a charm. Beautiful center hole bite. I was dreading it but your method made it fairly easy. Much appreciated
I’m glad you found the video useful
Thanks for the comment 👍
Thanks, they are not only useful as drill guides but cable adjusters.
Thanks for the comment
Tony Papantoniou. On a larger scale they make excellent steel door frame adjusters/ fixing points. The frame is made smaller than the opening and then with appropriate holes you adjust these to square up the frame in the aperture before drilling through for a fixings.
A bit late, but I just found your video. I tried it and it worked perfectly. Took about five minutes to make the jig and do the setup. So easy. THANK YOU.
I'm glad the video helped
Thanks for the comment 👍
When you said “lathe” I wasn’t expecting a LATHE! Holy moly that’s a nice piece of kit.
Yeah, it's a great piece of kit. I'm lucky that I work on a site with such cool machines ;-)
Thanks for the comment 👍
Normally, I wouldn't touch anything called "Ultimate", but your well paced narration, excellent skill, not to mention Scottish burr, sold me on a subscription!
Thanks for the comment 👍
Very nice solution to a rea l problem. I usually take a drill Chuck that I mounted to a flat plate and set it on the drill press table. Then I chuck a rod in the drill press and the other end in the chuck on the table. Then I clamp the lower chuck to the table. Now I chuck my bolt in the drill press and my bit in the lower chuck and drill away. The chips fall out of the hole nicely and I can drill different sizes without changing my setup.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
That's a very good alternate way to drill a hole through a bolt that I hadn't thought of before. Thanks for sharing with us.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
I’m out later, for the day but I’ll respond to comments when I get chance. Apologies for any delay!
I hope everyone has a great Sunday 😉
Standard hardware store bits. New ones. Must admit, they blunt down quicker than they did years ago. Even drilling sheet steel and they don't last that long. Have to keep on sharpening them.
Ultimate Handyman
I’m with you I was a tool maker
I heard you say a comment in
regard to the Drill bit wandering
I have used core drills to maintain
concentricity in the diameter as
well in the distant past !!!!
Brilliant! I’ve been trying to come up with a method for doing what you showed in this video and now I know. I will have a go myself following your example. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the comment 👍
Nice. One other suggestion is to invert the whole thing, use the drill press as the lathe for the bolt, and get the drill bit standing up from below, then lower the bolt onto the vise-clamped drill bit. That seems to be optimal. That way any flexing of the target tends to be self-centering at the hole.
Not my idea, a suggestion from another channel.
Chuck enclosure on the lathe is a great idea! We’ve probably all done it- once. Nice simple solution fo centering there with the threaded rod and nut.
Thanks for the comment 👍
This is called “tricks of the trade” thanks for sharing
Thanks for the comment
I did something similar on my mill for a guy. He had a couple of reloading plates that he wanted 3 stations drilled and tapped bigger to load 50 cal. I centered the spindle in between a table slot and screw a tap into the threads all ready their and then put it in the collet chuck and bolted it to the table. I could then drill and tap it with perfect alignment. Good video! 👍
Thanks for the comment 👍
Once again, another clear, concise video. Thank you. God bless bro, Jesus loves you man!
Thanks for the comment 👍
What a brilliant method for using a standard drill press. Thank you so much for this info.
You are so welcome!
Thanks for the comment 👍
This is a cool little trick.. frick I could have used this like tons of times back in the day.... Now I know an easy way...
Awesome
Thanks for the comment 👍
It's really not an easy job removing a seized bolt. I tried under my truck and behind the diff to get at diff plug. As a DYI'er it's not easy believe me. And it takes more than a "trick". You need an acetylene torch, the proper bits, powerful drills, etc. (I'm sure I missed 5 other things).
I'm awaiting a call from John, my mechanic as I write this.
David
Alberta
Another very informative video, thank you - an excellent accompaniment to your other one on removing broken bolts. I will try both methods myself to make a set of these! 🙂
Wow! Thanks I have a project where I need to do exactly this and I couldn’t figure out how to do it!
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
Such a simple solution well presented! Thank you. I have been in situations where this would have been an ideal approach.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Now this is a great tip! I simply love it. I’ll pass this one around to my friends for sure. For accuracy this is the best way. I’ve tried it other ways like the comments that are posted here by others but your way is to the most accurate way. You should make these and sell them. Are they already on the market by someone?
I found out after making this video that there is something similar, if I remember rightly it is called a vent bolt.
Thanks for the comment
Commercially available as Vent Screws from U-C Components in California. Used in equipment operating in vacuum environments.
Great idea, I am fortunate and have a small lathe to make this process a bit easier. You have all the right tools!
Thanks for the comment
Dang, I can listen to that accent all day! Great ideas
Thanks for the comment 👍
Lancashire, possibly the town of Burnley!
@@charlesdale5965 Close, Darwen ;-)
Those machines remind me of school. I wish i was still there. I used to love working on the lathes and milling machines.
👍
Thank you, this will be very helpful. 6/30/2019
I've watched 2 of your vids and learned 2 new tricks. Thanks!
Glad you like them!
A strong tip about drilling in center line and straight: Spin the work and hold the drill bit. It's self-centering like spinning a basketball on your finger will self align on your fingertip.
So if i had bare tools and no drill-press or lathe, I'd chuck the drill in a bench-vice and spin the bolt a hand-drill and in the initial step feel when it's centered as the wobble goes away.
BTW, the lathe does the same thing.. spins the work.
Spinning the work will ensure a hole true to the rotation axis of the work. While spinning the drill will get a hole true to the rotation axis of the bit which is in no way dependent to the work so great care must be taken like in this video to setup the axis of the bit to the work. The other way around is much more easy and non-dependent to careful alignment of the parts before drilling. You will feel that if the bolt will try to spin offcenter to the drill point it will wobble the whole drill and work or likely just slip and bend/break the drill bit
Also by spinning the piece you can drill a straight hole with a bent drill bit. not best combo but is possible much more than the other way around as the drill will just skip and skate around by the offcenter rotation of the bent drillbit.
So if I'm following you correct the stationary drill will flex to stay on the centerline of the rotating part if it's off center and cause it to wiggle which you can feel in the handheld drill, but if you're centered dead straight it will be smooth, giving you a heads up that it needs adjustment to stay straight... Very intuitive!
I have a little Jacobs chuck from a scrapped hand drill bolted to a bit of square bar to hold a stationary drill bit centred on the drill press chuck with a scrap of 6mm bar clamped in both chucks so it all stays centred even if I swap the drill bit for a different size.
I have never seen your way of thinking or doing things. Not to say someone else is not thinking of some of the same solutions as yourself, but I just have not seen them. I would love a metal lathe but that is not in the forecast at the moment. But maybe a drill press would be more affordable.
Appreciate your time to share your ideas and methods....so very helpful. Jesus bless.
Thanks!
A drill press is a very useful tool to have!
Thanks for the comment 👍
A great idea if the fastener breaks off below the surface and there is some thread to screw this guide into. I can’t actually remember the last time I had one like this though. I work on fork lift trucks and often have to remove broken fasteners, wheel studs etc, but they usually break at or above the surface. (Usually not far above to easily remove, however!) This isn’t a criticism, just an observation and I would certainly knock up one of these if the chance presented itself as we do have a pillar drill in the workshop.
Thanks for the comment
If the fastener is showing one or two threads above the surface you can use a nut together with the drilled bolt to get a guide.
The number of times I've seen people using drilled bolts and thought 'Yeah but I don't have a lathe to make any'.............. Brilliant idea!!!
Thanks for the comment 👍
Thanks for sharing this brilliant video and idea 💡👍
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
A good precise way of hold the bolt exactly in the center by using the thread bar to align it correctly. Great work.
Thanks for the comment
Well, now, THAT was clever!
Thanks for the comment
You are just going to have to show us MORE cool stuff! (Thanks!)
Yep, that was a very neat way of getting the alignment right.
In fact, it's converting your drill press -- everyone has one of those, of course -- into a lathe. Functionally, anyway; the table could just as easily hold the drill bit stationary, and the chuck rotate the bolt. The chuck, being captive and constrained, provides registration for both bit and workpiece…
There's an argument for rotating the bolt: the swarf falls away.
I was expecting a bit of magic for doing this trick hand-held. Only mildly disappointed.
Very clever, much appreciate you sharing!
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
Ingenious! This and your previous video will come in very handy as I restore old cars and trucks.
Thank you!!!
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
Can buy a guide set off ebay for £15 - bought a set after watching your last vid. Brilliant stuff, wish I’d known about it years ago.
Thanks for the comment
Any chance that you can give a bit more detail on what you bought on ebay? E.g. who was the seller or what was the exact description? Thanks.
I have looked everywhere for these kind of guides after the last video, but not able to find any. Unfortunately I do not have the tools to make them myself 😶
Mark Rowland Hi - search “25pc screw extractor drill guide set”
Ah yes, that awful sinking feeling as you remove a nut on an engine manifold and feel the stud snap 😁. Nice to have a solution other than giving it up to a garage.
Kudos to Ultimate Handyman for replying to all or most of viewers comments which is very very rare. I will subscribe and thumbs up.
Thanks 👍
i'm off to break some stud in stuff now :)) , great vid, will recomend it to others
Thanks for the comment
Brilliant tip.
Bit of advice from a former expert at breaking hacksaw blades.
Mild steel. 50 strokes a minute only and lube, I know of a guy who cut 12×12 inch rsj with only a hack saw .slower the cut the faster the work.
I'd love to watch him cutting that RSJ 😱
@@ultimatehandyman Try it you'd be surprised how efficient it is.
BTW powered workshop hacksaws are very slow. But give accurate results.
Again fantastic guide! I rally appreciate you sharing your skills 🙂 you should sell sets of drilling guides online 😁 i would order a set right away! Cheers, and thanks again
That’s what I was thinking! They’d sell easy on eBay - I’d definitely buy a set
I don't have time, sorry
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I'm going to do this to a flange bolt and then thread some wires through it and fill the remaining space with epoxy to make an electrical passthrough into a vacuum chamber. This was a really nice tutorial.
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Second ? Doesn't matter, Awesome video Sir !! Have a great weekend.
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Very useful.I have been wanting to drill a centre hole in bolt,stud to extract.Thanks very much 😊
You are welcome
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What I do is I drill a hole slightly smaller than the size of the bolt on a block of wood then screw the bolt into the hole and drill through with the smaller drill bit. Center every time.
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@grumpy old fart This is the right procedure.
@@pauleohl
Yup. Maybe start off with a centre drill to get the hole centred..
I also have a spare chuck from a hand drill which I screw a bolt into the base of and then fasten the bolt head into the drill vise.
It is however a bit of a buggeration getting cutting fluid up the spout...
Yup, that’s the trick many use. Not really that great though
I have a Craftsman drill press that has red LED laser crosshairs, but of course I live in a 1st world country.....yikes... Next let's invent the wheel.
Brilliant drill press procedure! Thanks!
You're welcome!
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You can also do the opposite: clamp the drill upside down in the vice (using the chuck of the drill) and then put the bolt in the chuck. The fact that the work is spinning rather than the tool enhances the self-centring effect, just like with the lathe.
👍 .
I live in the USA so I will use standard and fine thread bolts. Great video.
👍
Or you could clamp a piece of hardwood to the drill press table, drill a hole in it a little less than the diameter of the bolt, then screw in the bolt then drill your center hole.
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Whit the shop and tools you have was a piece of cake God bless.
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at about 5:27, the chuck holding the drill bit shows a little wobble but the drill bit does not. Can anyone say whats going on? Or is it just optical illusion?
sxm3816 : definitely a wobble
Just an illusion, there are three jaws in the chuck so every revolution you see the jaw or the gap between the three jaws.
Same phenomena as aircraft propellers running backwards on videos. The camera takes pictures at a rate that is in some way almost in sync with the rotating object.
It's an illusion from the frames per second the camera films at, and the lighting in the workshop, its probably got a name I'm sure someone will come along and say in more detail.
The drill bit is not perfectly straight to begin with, hence the wobble, or not placed perfectly centred (but I doubt that is the cause). The wobble gets worst when drilling with very high forward force, plus high temperature due to high friction cutting.
That's given me a plan to drill a small hole centrally through a shaft. Many thanks.
That sounds like a Blackburn accent. My mother came from Cherry tree. 😀
I’m glad you found the video useful. I’m in Darwen, but my dentist is in Cherry Tree 👍
Or just put the bolt in the drill chuck and the drill in the vice...
Not much point in doing it that way ;-)
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That's how I drill holes through M4 bolts with a cordless drill. Works every time.
This was great to see how it's done and you kept it going at just the right pace with only pertinent statements. I want to see your other videos so of course I subscribed so I won't miss any others. Thanks for your excellent work on these videos~!!
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From low equip work like mine, I will use a tube that can fit in the hole and a wrench to hold it.
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Great tip, well edited and good sound/voice over. Who would leave a thumbs down? I thought this was great! Thank you for posting this video.
Thanks. I have an army of haters/trolls!
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Make sure the drill bit in the pillar is long enough to go all the way through the bolt.
anythingtogetregiste no fucking shit you stupid fuck.. people like you should leave youtube
Fro the title and key frame, I thought you were just making vented bolts and I was going to post a McMaster link like a smartass. Good method and it's always satisfying to use a tool you made yourself.
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Thank you so much, easy when you know how. This little tip will help me so much. Regards Chris
You are welcome, Chris
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Great idea, the simple ones are always the best.
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Great Video! very well explained and demonstrated. Thanks, it was a great help.
I’m glad you found the video useful
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Great video. Thanks for taking the time to show this.
You are welcome
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This video was very helpful thank you for making it.
Glad it was helpful!
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Well that’s nice if you have a lath, a shop, a drill press, but if your out in the field working on something without all this fine equipment, show me how to drill center of bolt with a hand drill then I will be impressed. Good video for those with the equipment. Stay safe.👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
😂
Thank you for sharing your expertise and skill set!
You are welcome
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Truly excellent instruction! Thank you!
You are welcome
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Very slick trick!!! Thank you, Sir. I have a job for this waiting for two months for this bit of help.
Happy to help
That's pretty slick. I've been doing it the hard way.
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Thank never thought of that, simple and effective
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Nice set up, can’t wait to try this out today😎
Have fun!
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Really amazing. That aside I kept wondering what a pillar drill was , when lo and behold it's a drill press . Well here in 'murica! Lol . Thanks
Yeah, it's amazing how many different names there are across the world for the same thing!
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We call them a drill press here in Australia as well (or at least I always have lol)
This is so useful method. Thank you so much.
You are welcome
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Excelent, well done, congratulations, seems that you have been around for a while, very neat indeed, to you an everyone that one way or another collaborated to make it possible and shear it with us, most kind of you, please keep up the good work, from Puerto Rico to you. .....Jesus Torres
Thank you very much!
@@ultimatehandyman may God bless you and love ones, happy new year, from Puerto Rico to you. .....Jesus Torres.
I did find this useful but not for creating a broken bolt drill guide, at least not for what I need it for. Thanks.
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I think that was a very good result, I'm going to try it out with a smaller drill size to test for runout, it would be handy for cable adjusters etc, thank you, very useful setup.
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Good luck with yours ;-)
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I watched the video where you used this guide to drill broken bolts. I worked as a marine and automotive mechanic for a number of years. The toughest part is getting the initial hole centered. 'Eyeballing' it will likely not work very well in my experience.
This and the hinge bit are the most effective solutions I've seen for getting the drill centered on a bolt broken down in a threaded hole. The method of centering the bolt in the drill press is equally impressive.
Now... What about a bolt broken off flush? The same challenge exists with getting the drill centered in the broke bolt, but there isn't anything to screw a guide into.
Thanks David, I normally try to centre punch the hole in the dead centre by eye balling it, if the broken bolt is jagged, I normally use a flap disc in a grinder to flap it so that the surface is flat. In the past I have super-glued a nut of the correct diameter over the broken bolt to help with centering the centre punch or drilling the centre.
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Excellent work; patience pays.
Absolutely
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So easy, never thought about it,thanks
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Brilliant. This and your previous video will solve a couple of dilemmas for me, thankyou. Subscribed!
I'm glad the videos helped
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And now I've forgotten why I need a bolt with a hole down the middle till you reminded us at the end!
LOL
Great videos, you are a great teacher, thank you.
I appreciate that! 👍
Very practical information just the information I needed to find thanks for posting
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@@ultimatehandyman Thank you is the season to spread happiness😀👍but not Covid-19😷 stay well stay safe and grumpy if the other seven dwarfs are in quarantine😂 🎄☃️❄️
@@Uniquettt 👍
Excellent video. Brilliantly detailed 👏👏👏🥳🥳👍👍👍 Thank you so very much
You are welcome
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Thanks that is going to work for my project. Great.
nice video , thanks for sharing . Several decades ago I bored a few grade 8 bolts ( 1" x 8 tpi x 2.50" long ) . No lathe and several cobalt bits later it was achieved . Not withstanding a few fubars , lol . thanks again for sharing .
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What a brilliant idea. Thank you for sharing.
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Good video. I have seen using a piece of wood too. Drill a smaller than bolt diameter hole with wood secured to table. Then screw in bolt and sell through. Thanks for a more secure approach
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What you called a "pillar drill" at approx. 0:42 in is what we here in America call a drill press. And, unfortunately, most of us either don't own one of those nor have access to one. Not meant as a snarky comment; just a point of information. Your videos are a great reference source and are interesting to watch, nonetheless. I always learn something new or am reminded of techniques I learned in Shop classes many years ago. Thanks for posting them.
Thanks, it's easier to make one on the lathe, but I showed the drill press too as it might help some people. If you have neither a local engineering firm will be able to make them for you and should not charge much 😉
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Excellent tip, makes it a no brainer when you know how, so thanks.
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