You are correct, after some research on different diagrams it does show it the way you explained. Great catch! Check this link for a solid image images.app.goo.gl/iUUiyUaboGP44GY18
Ahhh Thankyou for showing this. I couldnt find the Cold start injector time switch for nothing ! Nice that you showed it out there in the open. Many Thanks
I like the setup that you have with the blue silicone hose change out and also the plug lead wires, The thing is down the bottom of the world in New Zealand it's hard to find and if you do find this it's darn expensive. I just found some of the coolant hoses through Amazon for more than half the cost including shipping but other companies don't ship to NZ only USA.
I used CRC freeze-off to get my 3VZE water temp sensor out with a 19mm Fuel line crow foot socket. I didn't break it. On that sensor is the part number from Denzo. My replacement was an exact Denso replacement with same PN. There was a copper crush washer on it. My sensor was original Denso from Toyota Japan Factory 34 yrs ago
A while back I had a leak coming from there. My 91 pickup had a recall for the head gasket years ago and the dealership did and they ended up warping then small little bypass block and just put a whole bunch of silicone so it wouldn’t leak. After years the silicone started to wear out and started leaking. I kept leaking coolant behind the truck and it would run along the transmission. Took it to a mechanic and he explained to me what the dealer had done years ago. Had no choice but to make a thicker gasket and add silicone to seal it . Sucks they don’t make that part new no more . And it is a pain in ass to get to as well.
Great video. I have a leak from back there but can see if it's the hose,gasket or a crack or untill I dive further in. I here from alot of threads it's that u shaped bypass hose that starts to leak.
Hey thanks! Yeah that u shaped one on mine was ruined when I got back there. That bypass sits just above the exhaust cross member that leads out to the cat. So all that heat just rises and melts/hardens anything that isn't metal. I'd suggest going with a high temp hose when replacing. You can take it all out without removing the plenum. But I'd suggest pulling all the bolts that hold the plenum down, and then lifting and turning it over toward the passenger side without removing any vacuum lines and resting it there. From that point it's accessible and you save time rehooking the lines
The sensor closest to the driver's side can cause hot starting problems. To combat fuel vapor lock, the ECU raises fuel pressure after a hot soak based on what that sensor tells it.
This may be the drama im having atm, was the 4runner going into limp mode kinda where it looses power if a certain speed is reached? I've a drip leak and its either this or welch plug, can't think of any other reason why. Thanks mate
@jaymo Thank you for your video. Two questions. Do you put silicone, glue, etc? on the GASKET? And what TORQUE did you use on those two nuts? Thank you Sir!
Hey guys, i see everyone asking about that black sesor I never wrote about in the comments. Im going to call toyots tomorrow or the next day and get all the names of the sesors and the part numbers. Ill post them onto the description Toyota couldn't find the part number go figure but I have linked one i found on anazon. www.amazon.com/OES-Genuine-Thermo-Switch-select/dp/B001G7MWLG
Hey Jaymo, great video. Just wondering where you got the hoses at? I mainly wanna know about the Heater Core hoses. I'm having a hard time finding them and I'm one step from making my own...
Great description of this water bypass outlet. I recently replaced the temp sensor (ECT?), among other things, and now I notice my temp gauge goes much higher than previously. I was concerned about this reading. But now I am wondering if it could be the sensor I installed causing a high reading? It wasn’t OEM. THOUGHTS?
The more I learn in school the more I learn that even a small change in design ca. Have a huge impact. If you want, check the fsm, it's linked in here. Best way to tell if the part should function right is multimeter tests as described in fsm. Make sure all read outs are within range
@@JaymoTheGroGuyde Ahhh a recent post from you ! I'm going to pick your brain a bit. Im having cooling issues and the only way I can describe it is kind of lengthy. I had a stroke a few years ago so bear with me please. 1994 3vze like you, that bypass hose split and sent steam under plenum and made me think it was HG so I dismantled it all to clean and inspect and reassemble. Okay, so I had to epoxy the BVSV with cut down WD40 straws, lol, Disability pension poverty. It works...BUT, I;m not sure if I got the correct sensor in the correct spot, Yes theyre pretty much non interchangeable , thread size, diameter and connector. I did install new sensors, but that one thats like $280, I cleaned it up and tested with ohmeter. Seemed right by the FSM I have. So it got hot and would gurgle and bubble out the rad cap into the reservoir. It just seems to overheat so I took T-Stat out and its okay but I know proper operating temp is vital. I put a new T-stat in this morning and holy crap its just building a shit ton of pressure and sounds like a thumper keg in the rad. I did the Crystal Drano and boiling water to flush rad, and did that a few times. Seems cleaner but one never knows. IT then ran cooler. THru summer it handled it without T-Stat and never got hot. FAll now, and temp gauge barely rises from C,. Engine is in great shape, correctly assembled, water pump replaced only a few years ago and I dont go far. Back flushed heater core(s) and it gets damn hot in there but for the life of me, I cannot figure out WTF is making it puke coolant . If I could post a video and link it to this, I would but not sure how. Anyway, before I tear it all back down to bare pistons and start all over again....is there anything like flippede HGs or something I'm missing here...pissing me right off. 67 mustang runs like a champ but theres a world of difference between a 66 289 and a 94 3vze
Great video! My 91 truck is overheating with a new radiator, new thermostat (changed twice!), new temp sensor, and flushed and all new OEM Toyota coolant. I am hitting a block wall 😠 and can’t figure out why it is reading so high (touching red on gauge). I am now wondering if the aftermarket temp sensor could be reading wrong. 🤔
where did you get all the new blue lines i have seen them in a few videos and like the idea and the look thanks in advance also can we get an update on the hoses if possible
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TAF5SQ2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Its a brand called upgr8 I would attempt to buy enough for the entire job the first time as the quality and consistency changed over time for me. Sorry about the late response!
Impossible for me to tell you without seeing it. I can give you idea, the back part of this engine right where that part sits gets extremely hot due to the cross over exuast header design. All that heat rises onto this part. The seal can warp, the plastic bvsv can get brittle and snap. The hoses can become old and crack. The seals for the sensors can get cooked. Gotta get back there with a light and a mirror and check the damage. Here is hoping for you that it's actually this part and not the back side of the engine and a blown gasket
Thank you so much for making this video first and foremost. Secondly I am looking for the names of those sensors that you were talking about, and the one that you said you would mention down in the comments I have not seen. I have to replace everything that you made this video about in order to restore my 4runner that I just bought. If you could please help me with the names of those sensors one more time I would greatly appreciate it.
I started school to become an engineer at ASU a couple years ago so my youtube channel has taken the back burner. I'll get the names and links of these sensors on Monday or Tuesday posted. Sorry about the major delay.
Do you happen to remember the part numbers for the switches? My vacuum one broke like yours and I also have a broken one that’s blue on the far right side of this bypass block as well
I dont but Toyota still carries them, If you give them a call.. if they are still open atm.. they can get those numbers really quickly. I'll look around and post in comments by the end of the day if I find them
Uuuhhhphhh. Those vacuum lines can be the worst. I have not done a video but plan on it when I put it all back together. I am willing to answer any specific questions and can give some tips tho until I post that video. ether3al.com/93fsm-mobile/engine.html At that link you should be able to find the Fsm for the truck, scroll to emissions and look through those pdfs. They will show exactly where each line goes. I got online and bought a few silicon 4mm hoses from amazon and replaced almost all of mine as they were so old they'd crumble if squeezed lol. If you're hood is in good condition there is the vacuum diagram there that will show exactly where they go. I suggest going one by one, replacing each one as you take it. Then either take some pictures when done for reference or lable each line and where it goes for next time.
16351 www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/how-remove-no-1-coolant-bypass-pipe-1990-3vze-289568/ I wanted to share the image but couldn't, it's the first response in the thread. You can see the part in the map with the all the part numbers. Also if you call toyota near you and give then your VIN, you can tell them it's the water coolant bypass and they can find the exact number for your
Can l ask a question. My four runner steaming out the back side and is it that block that you're talking about may have cracked I have all new high pressure hoses like you had on yours I'd appreciate if you could text me and let me know thanks
With this engine smoke coming out the back by the cross over pipe is probably a blown head gasket. Do you have lose of power/acceleration? This engine has a poorly designed exhaust that crosses the passenger side hot exhaust gasses across the back of the engine. This heats up the gasket and causes it to crack/warp
I found them on amazon, ebay, at in junk yards. Each sensor can be tested using the FSM and a multi meter, so where ever you get yours from, double check and ensure it matches what the FSM desribes! Thanks
This looks like where im getting a coolant leak from but I have a 01 Toyota Tacoma V6 and it appears to be on the drivers side next to water pump is it located in a different spot on the newer models or am I looking at something completely different
Yes, best method is to call your local toyota either your Vin ready. Ask them for the part numbers for the ones you need. Get their price while talking with them. Afterwards, use that part number in online searches and calling local part stores. Find the best price that's the correct part
Amazon. I googled 4/6/8/10/12 mm silicone auto hoses. Found them each separately and as a set. So I bout one set of each size at 5 feet. Then finished buying individual lengths I needed. Just remember some of the lines are actually fuel lines so the silicone will not be as suitable for those.
Jaymo The Toyota Pickup Guy I’m looking specifically for the one that comes up from the motor turns about 45° then comes up again and turns another 45° into a pipe. that looks like a specialty hose
My truck thinks it’s overheating makes me block the msg open to run? Engine is throwing a temp sensor code I bet that’s my problem that little ground looking plug eh!
My 93 4 runner over heated then got normal the over heated then has been normal I'ma replace everything he just said sounds like my sensors back there are malfunctioning.
I found it on ebay, how ever I would not suggest it, this truck does drive and function better with the original air system in place. I only did that swap as my air box was damaged and my hosing was ruined. I also could not find replacements for less that 500 dollars.
I got them on amazon, I love the quality. Link is below. There are a few hoses in the kit that are not obvious where they go. 2 are under the plenum on the driver side. 2 are on the driver side of the engine under the headers, so when changing them out be prepared to take apart the plenum and Jack up the truck if yours isn't lifted www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N5VG29V/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_inactive_ship_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I got a 95 and the idle drops for a second when I turn on the heater fan. Does anyone else have this problem 🤔. And now I am having trouble getting it going when it is cold. Seems to run good when it warms up.
Awesome, thanks for this video. I was wondering what the vacuum went to. I am doing EGR delete so I don't need to replace it. Mine broke the tits off at the switch...
The bvsv with the broken attachment tubes is not for the EGR system. That is one of the components for the Evaporative Emissions System, aka gas tank fume collection and burn off thingy system gizmo stuff.
Large black sensor where? Most of the sensors on 3vze are metal unpainted. The mass air flow sensor or volume air flow meter is on the right side of the engine bay above the air intake piping. It should pop directly into the metal housing with i think 2 ten mil bolts. Thats usually painted black. I do not suggest fooling with that unless you know what you are doing.
Yep.... I need to know what that sensor is as well... Video: "I'm blanking on it but I'll put it in the comments. Don't worry about that" Well then, what it is called?
This is truly the worst part. I am seeing some modifications for this system online that may be a better option I may get around to doing this and posting a video. I know the more time passes, the more difficult it will be to locate this part and others. So take care of what you got while you got it, you might not know what ya have till its gone! Thanks for the comment!
@@JaymoTheGroGuydeno problem, if it helps, well at least for the older model w/o the coolant bypass outlet, i cut off and bore the rusty small pipe, tapped a thread and screwed a fitting from the hardware store, also did it to the pipes on the throttle body
Why remove that and bury it at the rear of the engine again? A couple of lengths of hose and a few small pieces of metal, couple of fittings and a bit of welding and I moved my son's to the inside passenger fender. Burying that at the rear of the engine wasn't Toyota's finest moment. Your engine seems to have a lot more space between the firewall and air chamber than my son's, on his that block was nearly completely hidden. Changing or checking any of the sensors was totally impossible. WAS...
@@greencertifiedweb I used ⅜" (10mm) plate, machined a fitting and welded that to the plate (its easier to thread a hole and use OTC fittings). Then I cut pieces and leveled and welded it on the bracket where the egr, pair, fuel pressure (red, green and blue ECVVs, not necessarily in that order) mount. Built another plate to go where the sensor block originally was mounted. Made gaskets and installed ⅜ coolant hoses and bolted it all up. Works flawlessly and troubleshooting/checking/changing the various components that go in it is now easier than removing the fan shroud.
@@TheBrushcutter That's awesome and definitely outside the box thinking. I'm not sure what's wrong with mine yet. I need to take off the plenum but it's leaking water all down the back and for some reason, some of that water is getting into the exhaust... Still, while I'm there, it would be great to move that crap so I don't need to go back there again.
@@greencertifiedweb you won't regret it. And good luck with the water in exhaust issue, hopefully it's as simple as an exhaust gasket letting it in there.
Almost positive my truck has the throttle body vacuum line going to 'top' nipple and bottom nipple goes to charcoal canister area.. given the shape of the hose this makes more sense too. Does it matter which goes to which nipple. he said nipple 3 times bahaha!
Just found a diagram apparently showing the u shaped vacuum line going from nipple of Emission Vacuum Switch! So is that why my truck blew up recently? Because i have them reversed?
Nope I was right the first time...here is under the hood diagram I just found, showing it how I currently have it. (I'm guessing it can go either way).
@@JaymoTheGroGuyde not mine but similar hood from '91. Mine is 95. Anyway, I'm experienced(somewhat) mechanic going on 3 years now...so I just thought you might know where that hose routes to for sure.
The lower port on the bvse goes to the throttle body the upper goes to the fuel canister not the EGR
You are correct, after some research on different diagrams it does show it the way you explained.
Great catch!
Check this link for a solid image
images.app.goo.gl/iUUiyUaboGP44GY18
Ahhh Thankyou for showing this. I couldnt find the Cold start injector time switch for nothing ! Nice that you showed it out there in the open. Many Thanks
I like the setup that you have with the blue silicone hose change out and also the plug lead wires, The thing is down the bottom of the world in New Zealand it's hard to find and if you do find this it's darn expensive. I just found some of the coolant hoses through Amazon for more than half the cost including shipping but other companies don't ship to NZ only USA.
I used CRC freeze-off to get my 3VZE water temp sensor out with a 19mm Fuel line crow foot socket. I didn't break it. On that sensor is the part number from Denzo. My replacement was an exact Denso replacement with same PN. There was a copper crush washer on it. My sensor was original Denso from Toyota Japan Factory 34 yrs ago
A while back I had a leak coming from there. My 91 pickup had a recall for the head gasket years ago and the dealership did and they ended up warping then small little bypass block and just put a whole bunch of silicone so it wouldn’t leak. After years the silicone started to wear out and started leaking. I kept leaking coolant behind the truck and it would run along the transmission. Took it to a mechanic and he explained to me what the dealer had done years ago. Had no choice but to make a thicker gasket and add silicone to seal it . Sucks they don’t make that part new no more . And it is a pain in ass to get to as well.
Yea sure is a pain. Sorry that happened, I will keep a look out at the junk yards in Arizona, if I find a solid one I will reach out.
Great video. I have a leak from back there but can see if it's the hose,gasket or a crack or untill I dive further in. I here from alot of threads it's that u shaped bypass hose that starts to leak.
Hey thanks! Yeah that u shaped one on mine was ruined when I got back there. That bypass sits just above the exhaust cross member that leads out to the cat. So all that heat just rises and melts/hardens anything that isn't metal.
I'd suggest going with a high temp hose when replacing.
You can take it all out without removing the plenum. But I'd suggest pulling all the bolts that hold the plenum down, and then lifting and turning it over toward the passenger side without removing any vacuum lines and resting it there. From that point it's accessible and you save time rehooking the lines
The sensor closest to the driver's side can cause hot starting problems. To combat fuel vapor lock, the ECU raises fuel pressure after a hot soak based on what that sensor tells it.
This may be the drama im having atm, was the 4runner going into limp mode kinda where it looses power if a certain speed is reached? I've a drip leak and its either this or welch plug, can't think of any other reason why. Thanks mate
@jaymo Thank you for your video. Two questions. Do you put silicone, glue, etc? on the GASKET? And what TORQUE did you use on those two nuts? Thank you Sir!
@IUDICA007 if I remember right, it can be sealed with toyota brand gasket sealer, it's black sealant that comes in a white tube.
14ft-p
Hey guys, i see everyone asking about that black sesor I never wrote about in the comments. Im going to call toyots tomorrow or the next day and get all the names of the sesors and the part numbers. Ill post them onto the description
Toyota couldn't find the part number go figure but I have linked one i found on anazon.
www.amazon.com/OES-Genuine-Thermo-Switch-select/dp/B001G7MWLG
Hey Jaymo, great video. Just wondering where you got the hoses at? I mainly wanna know about the Heater Core hoses. I'm having a hard time finding them and I'm one step from making my own...
Great description of this water bypass outlet. I recently replaced the temp sensor (ECT?), among other things, and now I notice my temp gauge goes much higher than previously. I was concerned about this reading. But now I am wondering if it could be the sensor I installed causing a high reading? It wasn’t OEM. THOUGHTS?
The more I learn in school the more I learn that even a small change in design ca. Have a huge impact. If you want, check the fsm, it's linked in here.
Best way to tell if the part should function right is multimeter tests as described in fsm. Make sure all read outs are within range
@@JaymoTheGroGuyde Ahhh a recent post from you ! I'm going to pick your brain a bit. Im having cooling issues and the only way I can describe it is kind of lengthy. I had a stroke a few years ago so bear with me please.
1994 3vze like you, that bypass hose split and sent steam under plenum and made me think it was HG so I dismantled it all to clean and inspect and reassemble. Okay, so I had to epoxy the BVSV with cut down WD40 straws, lol, Disability pension poverty. It works...BUT, I;m not sure if I got the correct sensor in the correct spot, Yes theyre pretty much non interchangeable , thread size, diameter and connector. I did install new sensors, but that one thats like $280, I cleaned it up and tested with ohmeter. Seemed right by the FSM I have.
So it got hot and would gurgle and bubble out the rad cap into the reservoir. It just seems to overheat so I took T-Stat out and its okay but I know proper operating temp is vital. I put a new T-stat in this morning and holy crap its just building a shit ton of pressure and sounds like a thumper keg in the rad. I did the Crystal Drano and boiling water to flush rad, and did that a few times. Seems cleaner but one never knows. IT then ran cooler. THru summer it handled it without T-Stat and never got hot. FAll now, and temp gauge barely rises from C,.
Engine is in great shape, correctly assembled, water pump replaced only a few years ago and I dont go far. Back flushed heater core(s) and it gets damn hot in there but for the life of me, I cannot figure out WTF is making it puke coolant .
If I could post a video and link it to this, I would but not sure how. Anyway, before I tear it all back down to bare pistons and start all over again....is there anything like flippede HGs or something I'm missing here...pissing me right off. 67 mustang runs like a champ but theres a world of difference between a 66 289 and a 94 3vze
great video thanks for the video Keep the vibes coming
Thank you! Will do! I appreciate the feed back
After doing all this, has the power increased on this motor as I know the motors crap, I have one?
Should offer no power increase.
And yes. The 3.slow is a old ornery beast.
Those hoses add 50hp.
Great video! My 91 truck is overheating with a new radiator, new thermostat (changed twice!), new temp sensor, and flushed and all new OEM Toyota coolant. I am hitting a block wall 😠 and can’t figure out why it is reading so high (touching red on gauge). I am now wondering if the aftermarket temp sensor could be reading wrong. 🤔
@DoctorWonka make sure to take a multi meter to it. Follow the fsm guide if the reading are out of range that's most likely the issue
where did you get all the new blue lines i have seen them in a few videos and like the idea and the look thanks in advance also can we get an update on the hoses if possible
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TAF5SQ2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Its a brand called upgr8
I would attempt to buy enough for the entire job the first time as the quality and consistency changed over time for me.
Sorry about the late response!
Aloha thanks for the help also we’re did you purchase your new silicone lines? Mahalo
I’m going to go ahead and second this comment, hose link would be great
Ya, no kidding, parts house says the silicone hoses don't exist for the 3vze
So the silicone hoses for the coolant I found on Amazon! As for the other smaller tubes for evap/exhaust/intake all on Amazon as well
I have a water leak somewhere back there, the hoses all look dry. Im hoping its not cracked
Hopefully I get a reply quick but I JUST got a leak around that area. Is it one of the coolant lines or the sensors?
Impossible for me to tell you without seeing it. I can give you idea, the back part of this engine right where that part sits gets extremely hot due to the cross over exuast header design. All that heat rises onto this part.
The seal can warp, the plastic bvsv can get brittle and snap. The hoses can become old and crack. The seals for the sensors can get cooked.
Gotta get back there with a light and a mirror and check the damage. Here is hoping for you that it's actually this part and not the back side of the engine and a blown gasket
@@JaymoTheGroGuydeOkay so it's definitely the middle heater hose. Is it tough to get to?
@@Natureboy562 the job can be done with some small hands, a long nose needle nose pliers and a small mirror. It might be annoying though.
@@JaymoTheGroGuyde Thanks man I appreciate it 😊
Thank you so much for making this video first and foremost. Secondly I am looking for the names of those sensors that you were talking about, and the one that you said you would mention down in the comments I have not seen. I have to replace everything that you made this video about in order to restore my 4runner that I just bought. If you could please help me with the names of those sensors one more time I would greatly appreciate it.
I started school to become an engineer at ASU a couple years ago so my youtube channel has taken the back burner. I'll get the names and links of these sensors on Monday or Tuesday posted. Sorry about the major delay.
@@JaymoTheGroGuyde thank you 🙏
@jaymo9117 do you remember all the sensor names? I can not find them all. Would you be able to help me with that?
Did you find out what the sensor is cald on the left side of that block
Did u?
Is there a website or somewhere I can buy the actual part ? The junk yard that’s in my town has no 4Runners that aren’t gutted /:
Not that I have seen when I was looking, I had to go to a few junkyard for mine
Do you happen to remember the part numbers for the switches? My vacuum one broke like yours and I also have a broken one that’s blue on the far right side of this bypass block as well
I dont but Toyota still carries them, If you give them a call.. if they are still open atm.. they can get those numbers really quickly. I'll look around and post in comments by the end of the day if I find them
@Cameron Jordan did you find the part? I recently broke mine, was very brittle and snapped. If so you know part number?
Clean engine bay! What size are the vacuum lines you bought? 3mm?
I’ve got the same issue - I’m convinced it’s either the coolant temp sender or the O2 sensor. Gonna change them both in spring.
I purchased a few different sizes of lines to fit the different applications. From 2mm through 8 if I remember right
Did you say "coolant level" switch?
Okay dude, I’m knee deep in mine because of the dreaded knock sensor. Did you by chance do a video of replacing the miles of vacuum hoses?
Uuuhhhphhh. Those vacuum lines can be the worst. I have not done a video but plan on it when I put it all back together.
I am willing to answer any specific questions and can give some tips tho until I post that video.
ether3al.com/93fsm-mobile/engine.html
At that link you should be able to find the Fsm for the truck, scroll to emissions and look through those pdfs. They will show exactly where each line goes.
I got online and bought a few silicon 4mm hoses from amazon and replaced almost all of mine as they were so old they'd crumble if squeezed lol.
If you're hood is in good condition there is the vacuum diagram there that will show exactly where they go. I suggest going one by one, replacing each one as you take it. Then either take some pictures when done for reference or lable each line and where it goes for next time.
Hey Bobby. I wanted to let you know I have a video up covering the vacuum lines
Awesome!!
Checking it out
Thanks
Can you do a video or show me what hose lines to cancel the heater core have the same the truck same engine same year just not 4x4
Do you know othe pet number of the block is called? Or part number? I broke one of the sensors and can’t get it out
16351
www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/how-remove-no-1-coolant-bypass-pipe-1990-3vze-289568/
I wanted to share the image but couldn't, it's the first response in the thread. You can see the part in the map with the all the part numbers.
Also if you call toyota near you and give then your VIN, you can tell them it's the water coolant bypass and they can find the exact number for your
Where did you get all those nice blue vacuum lines, pressure lines etc? Mine looks like crap.
I googled silicon vacuum lines along with color choice and searched through amazon, found some nice 10ft sections for like 10 bucks a pop
What is the part number for the bi-metallic vacuum switch? Where did you buy the new one? I am having hell trying to find one.
Toyota BVSV | 90925-05047
Bought mine off Amazon for $50
Thanks @rosswilliamsdc and @Christianafalla8182. Yes, this is correct information if my memory serves!
Can l ask a question. My four runner steaming out the back side and is it that block that you're talking about may have cracked I have all new high pressure hoses like you had on yours I'd appreciate if you could text me and let me know thanks
With this engine smoke coming out the back by the cross over pipe is probably a blown head gasket.
Do you have lose of power/acceleration?
This engine has a poorly designed exhaust that crosses the passenger side hot exhaust gasses across the back of the engine. This heats up the gasket and causes it to crack/warp
Is it possible to change block without remodeling intake plenum?
No I don't believe so
Yes, but it's a little bit of a pain. I won't do it again unless absolutely necessary.
Hello I have a question ,where did you find all those sensors ? Thanks
I found them on amazon, ebay, at in junk yards. Each sensor can be tested using the FSM and a multi meter, so where ever you get yours from, double check and ensure it matches what the FSM desribes!
Thanks
Thanks for the info
Mine is having the exact same issue I’ve been trying to figure out, tubes are totally blocked. Thanks for the video! Any others around this same area?
This looks like where im getting a coolant leak from but I have a 01 Toyota Tacoma V6 and it appears to be on the drivers side next to water pump is it located in a different spot on the newer models or am I looking at something completely different
Totally different
Wat coolant do u use?
For the tvv do I have to replace that if I'm doing the egr delete
Can you still by the censors
Yes, best method is to call your local toyota either your Vin ready.
Ask them for the part numbers for the ones you need. Get their price while talking with them.
Afterwards, use that part number in online searches and calling local part stores.
Find the best price that's the correct part
Where did you get all those silicone hoses??
Amazon. I googled 4/6/8/10/12 mm silicone auto hoses. Found them each separately and as a set. So I bout one set of each size at 5 feet. Then finished buying individual lengths I needed.
Just remember some of the lines are actually fuel lines so the silicone will not be as suitable for those.
Jaymo The Toyota Pickup Guy I’m looking specifically for the one that comes up from the motor turns about 45° then comes up again and turns another 45° into a pipe. that looks like a specialty hose
Where’d you get all your new hoses from
I replied in another comment explaining more but here ya go -
www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N5VG29V/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_inactive_ship_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Could that cause high idle I can't figure out why my truck idles so high
My truck thinks it’s overheating makes me block the msg open to run? Engine is throwing a temp sensor code I bet that’s my problem that little ground looking plug eh!
My 93 4 runner over heated then got normal the over heated then has been normal I'ma replace everything he just said sounds like my sensors back there are malfunctioning.
Whats the sensor who tells me what my temp is inside the car?
Link to your cold air intake?
I found it on ebay, how ever I would not suggest it, this truck does drive and function better with the original air system in place.
I only did that swap as my air box was damaged and my hosing was ruined. I also could not find replacements for less that 500 dollars.
Where did you get the new high temp coolant hoses?
I got them on amazon, I love the quality. Link is below.
There are a few hoses in the kit that are not obvious where they go.
2 are under the plenum on the driver side. 2 are on the driver side of the engine under the headers, so when changing them out be prepared to take apart the plenum and Jack up the truck if yours isn't lifted
www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N5VG29V/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_inactive_ship_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thank you! I'm rebuilding a 92 Pick up sr5. It took me forever to find any info on the coolant bypass.
@@daltonstredwick4834 anytime! Good luck!
I got a 95 and the idle drops for a second when I turn on the heater fan.
Does anyone else have this problem 🤔.
And now I am having trouble getting it going when it is cold. Seems to run good when it warms up.
Awesome, thanks for this video. I was wondering what the vacuum went to. I am doing EGR delete so I don't need to replace it. Mine broke the tits off at the switch...
The bvsv with the broken attachment tubes is not for the EGR system. That is one of the components for the Evaporative Emissions System, aka gas tank fume collection and burn off thingy system gizmo stuff.
This is correct, thanks for posting!
What is large black sensor on a 3.0vze
Large black sensor where? Most of the sensors on 3vze are metal unpainted. The mass air flow sensor or volume air flow meter is on the right side of the engine bay above the air intake piping. It should pop directly into the metal housing with i think 2 ten mil bolts. Thats usually painted black.
I do not suggest fooling with that unless you know what you are doing.
@@JaymoTheGroGuyde I'm referring to the sensor in the video its black screws into the coolant block with a few others.
Its between 2 rubber hoses. In the video he doesnt know what it does.
Yep.... I need to know what that sensor is as well...
Video: "I'm blanking on it but I'll put it in the comments. Don't worry about that"
Well then, what it is called?
Can someone type the name and description of what the unnamed black sensor is called. Its larger ther the rest
That's a cold start sensor.
Pain in the ass to find one that doesn't have the pipe fittings rusted AF
This is truly the worst part. I am seeing some modifications for this system online that may be a better option I may get around to doing this and posting a video.
I know the more time passes, the more difficult it will be to locate this part and others. So take care of what you got while you got it, you might not know what ya have till its gone!
Thanks for the comment!
@@JaymoTheGroGuydeno problem, if it helps, well at least for the older model w/o the coolant bypass outlet, i cut off and bore the rusty small pipe, tapped a thread and screwed a fitting from the hardware store, also did it to the pipes on the throttle body
Why remove that and bury it at the rear of the engine again? A couple of lengths of hose and a few small pieces of metal, couple of fittings and a bit of welding and I moved my son's to the inside passenger fender. Burying that at the rear of the engine wasn't Toyota's finest moment. Your engine seems to have a lot more space between the firewall and air chamber than my son's, on his that block was nearly completely hidden. Changing or checking any of the sensors was totally impossible. WAS...
I'd be really interested in knowing how you did that. I'm guessing you mounted a plate over it with a hose? How big of hose or what really worked?
@@greencertifiedweb I used ⅜" (10mm) plate, machined a fitting and welded that to the plate
(its easier to thread a hole and use OTC fittings). Then I cut pieces and leveled and welded it on the bracket where the egr, pair, fuel pressure (red, green and blue ECVVs, not necessarily in that order) mount. Built another plate to go where the sensor block originally was mounted. Made gaskets and installed ⅜ coolant hoses and bolted it all up. Works flawlessly and troubleshooting/checking/changing the various components that go in it is now easier than removing the fan shroud.
@@TheBrushcutter That's awesome and definitely outside the box thinking. I'm not sure what's wrong with mine yet. I need to take off the plenum but it's leaking water all down the back and for some reason, some of that water is getting into the exhaust... Still, while I'm there, it would be great to move that crap so I don't need to go back there again.
@@greencertifiedweb you won't regret it. And good luck with the water in exhaust issue, hopefully it's as simple as an exhaust gasket letting it in there.
@@TheBrushcutter Thanks, once I find out, I'll come back and let you know. It could help others in the future.
Mi camioneta toyota 4 Runner mod 90 gasta el doble de gasolina me daba de promedio 7 km por litro hoy me da de 3 a 3 1/2 kisiera saber pok es V6 3: 0
Que?
Revisa los injectores, me paso que en mi 95 se descompusieron 2 y me causo lo mismo.
@@VinyKraken ok gracias lo are
Almost positive my truck has the throttle body vacuum line going to 'top' nipple and bottom nipple goes to charcoal canister area.. given the shape of the hose this makes more sense too. Does it matter which goes to which nipple. he said nipple 3 times bahaha!
Just found a diagram apparently showing the u shaped vacuum line going from nipple of Emission Vacuum Switch! So is that why my truck blew up recently? Because i have them reversed?
Nope I was right the first time...here is under the hood diagram I just found, showing it how I currently have it. (I'm guessing it can go either way).
@@TheWeirdSide1 I would follow the diagram under the hood of the truck if yours is still available!
@@JaymoTheGroGuyde not mine but similar hood from '91. Mine is 95. Anyway, I'm experienced(somewhat) mechanic going on 3 years now...so I just thought you might know where that hose routes to for sure.
That’s a late video lease make one before do the work
Awesome video!
I appreciate it! I am working on editing, more truck videos soon to come!