Would recommend first to use some fresh or low melt solder on the holes. And about the solder wick - try to cut them in smaller pieces, so the heat will stay on them and they heat up faster. Because if you're using the whole package, the heat will go up the packaging and is not on point. A flat chisel soldering tip and a bit of flux on the solderwick will also help. Best is here also - if available - using a desoldering gun, or a good solder sucker...
I have a question regarding the solder wick: Apparently, one good way to use it without removing the tin on the tip of your iron (And thus potentially damaging it) would be to just melt the tin using the iron, and then applying the end of the wick to the blob only, limiting contact with the tip. What do you think of this ? I recently destroyed a Ts101 tip and I don't really know how. The thing is totally oxydized, I used brass whool / a sponge / tinned frequently and it lasted 4 months of very casual use. The last time it worked sort of well was before using the solder wick and now it won't even tin no matter how I clean it.
Maybe a not so good quality tip? Or too much heat applied over a time? If the soldering tip is starting corroding and oxidizing a lot, it could also be fault of solder mixture and/or flux. Have you tried special soldering iron cleaning tools/materials beside the wool/sponge?
For the first question: It's all about thermal tansfer. It's bigger there, where the soldering iron tip is near the solder on the PCB. So using the wick as a kind of extension of the tip would never get the same thermal heat transfer, as it's loosing temperature on distance...
@@psteier Thanks for your answer ! Maybe it was too hot for too long. I use it at around 350°C but the program in the iron stops heating whenever I'm not using it. I don't have any particular cleaning tool, I just use wool to clean when it's hot and sponge when it cooled down a bit to avoid thermal shocks
I find sometimes when desoldering that i need to use a narrower wick. As well clip off the solder filled end more often as it can act as a heatsink and pull the heat from the iron tip. I like a 3mm wide wick and a 60w iron. I also use a rosin based flux i make myself and dip the quick as needed. Works great.
Steve. Get a Hakko "K" soldering tip. Truuust me. Allows you to touch both joints simultaneously & push massive heat into the board. You'll get caps out in 4 seconds, and in - potentially less, with practice. Drop that weak conical & see what knives, chisels and bevels have to offer. 400C is my go-to temp for this slightly stubborn board. My reference: I "specialize" in repairing OG Xbox's
For the port 1 theres likely corrosion if you lightly scrape it out from within the front with a toothpick and clean it out should pick up everytime. As for the samsung drive i have one with no errors but acts like theres no disc that is nearly mint. But for yours with an error if you boil the belt temporarily till you can get a replacement should fix the stuck tray for the most part and then lightly wipe the lens with a microfiber and clean both magnet contacts very possible to be a good drive still, glad you got a read at the end ❤
I've found that you need a lot of heat when using solder wick. When using wick to clear holes I add flux, punch the iron up to 450-480F to clear the holes with wick and when its done I immediately punch it back down to about 380F and clean the tip to keep the heat from destroying it. This high heat allows the wick to heat up all the way and pull the solder right out of the holes. Never needed a solder sucker after I figured that out since the wick gets *all* the solder when you use the right temperature. Its more difficult on some boards that have large copper traces but the high heat works for most situations without a solder sucker.
I see other channels purposely mixing low melt solder with the stock solder which makes it easier for them to wick up once it mixes. Not sure if that's what you've tried in this, but if so then forgive my comment, I've just watched a ton of repair videos but never attempted it myself. I love the content though man, super interesting and informative.
Capacitor Plague was at it's peak when these came out. I remember a massive amount of Dell Optiplex desktops having to have motherboards replaced at one off my previous jobs because of this.
4:45 Exactly - one stupid photo before you disassemble anything can save you sooo much trouble and headache. Learned it myself after doing "simple" repair that i had to stop working on (because smth important came by) only to return to it after a month, having kinda no clue at all :) ... I even started to take a picture of a friend borrowing any tools (the person and the thing) so i remember who has what (and for me as well) as it helps preventing those weird situation when one of the side forgets and the other expects return...
The first fps I was able to play, and that changed me forever, was Halo. The best of all time is half life 2 but Halo is right there with it. Great music, great story.
Replace the small rubber belt slips on the motor pulley and can't move the sliding bar to be able to eject the tray. The optical unit can be replace with an old one from an old PC.
My Noctua H1 turned up today, some say its the perfect thermal paste for the perfect amount of thermal paste as I got two Xbox's and my new PC motherboard to squirt one up the tukus on hehe
That nasty capacitor was the clock capacitor which has acid in it and has lifted traces and can destroy the motherboard. You need to clean with vinegar and then alcohol to kill that acid.
Samsung's patented Stuck Tray Technology™ - perfecting the art of tray-jamming and slap-repairing since forever! Even their 4K Blu-ray players are in on the tradition!
Get yourself one of these, you’re making my heart hurt. YIHUA 948 Standard Desoldering Station. Doing that much de soldering work using an iron and solder wick is a very tough job and this would make it go so much faster.
I love watching your videos. You never have problems using solder wick. I'm constantly having issues with wick sticking to the joint I'm trying to desolder. Maybe it's the wick I'm using?
Not too long ago, I bought a GameBoy Advance SP AGS-101 off eBay for about $60, which has red lines on the screen, and white around the corners. I actually got some of the red lines gone by cleaning the ribbon cable, and the spot it slides into. There's still this big red line left, however, on the left side of the screen, however. That, and the white corners don't really bother me that much, to be honest. I also cleaned the shoulder buttons with some 95% IPA, as well as the entire board, and cartridge slot. As I was cleaning it, I saw a lot of rust, and saw that the pink-dotted water pad thingy (excuse my lack of knowledge on what it's called) was fully pink. The entire thing had been water damaged! I got the right shoulder button to work properly, and the left one works sometimes. Probably still has some rust on it. That left button, I can deal with. HOWEVER! The cartridge slot is bad. I looked at it, and I think it's bent. Maybe I'm mistaken. All I know is, when I have a game in, it sometimes doesn't read it. But, the WORST part of it, and the reason I choose not to even play it, is the slightest tap on the back will make the game crash (it makes the sound, as if you just yanked the game out while it was running). I had a game going, and I sat it down gently, and it crashed the game. It was at that point I had enough. Now, it's cool to actually OWN an AGS-101, because they aren't cheap, but it will just sit there, looking nice, because I re-shelled it with a clear black shell. That, with the original black buttons, looks really nice. At least I still have my modded GBA, and my SP AGS-001, which works flawlessly. Just a bad screen. Stinking 001 screens. lol I'm considering buying a ISP screen, and replacing it. Anyway, the reason I said ALL of this, is because I was wondering if you did repairs for us viewers. I'd rather pay you to fix mine, than spend over $130 for a properly working one.
Yesterday I rebuilt a Series controller and fitted a shell kit in that exact colour. I only paid 99p for the year old controller which had a weak left top switch and sticky joysticks, got it down to its knickers and thoroughly cleaned it out, how one year could accrue such copious amounts of man-gunge escapes me but its now like brand new and I paid £7.99 for the shell kit so a brand new Xbox Series controller for £9.99p is a bargain all year long. I also repaired my digital Xbox One S yesterday, didn't have a 1tb hdd so used a 500gb SSHD I had spare and now onto my Battlefield limited edition One S today which is a dead no power issue, if its truly dead I might whip the 1tb hdd it has which is good and put it into the digital and keep it for spares.
I would recomend a hotter iron, low melt solder, flux and if all this doesnt work a 1mm drill prior to installing new cap. Saves a lot of bother in the long term.
Next time , a bigger tip + flood the old solder with new solder and then solder pump works every time. Those boards soak the heat too easily. Also snip the legs a little before install , no need to push the legs like that, just wastes time and effort for no good reason. The orange Tantalum cap C2R6 ? at 23:49 does not look healthy.
100% needs a 2nd deep clean immediately following the 1st. TBH a little disappointed in Restorish seeing the state it is still in and how easy it would be in comparison to the initial job. Dare I say unprofessional.
Hiya Tronicsfix I have an psp 3000 blue i recently brought off Ebay the person I bought it off had done a mod to play roms onit but didn't install it properly so it needs to be put back to its original oem os but can't do it I'm baffled on how to do it if I send it to you would you be able to fix it for me plus it needs a new screen as there is a little white dot in the screen when you turn it on I will buy a new screen before I send it to you too I'd be extremely grateful if you can repair it for me as I so badly want a blue psp 3000 in my collection ❤❤❤
so the original xbox dvd drives were not tied to the motherboard in any fashion. it would be far easier to replace with a known good dvd rom drive and just transfer the front of the dvd drive tray to the new drive.
Sure! This is the fume extractor that I use: geni.us/SCfYvvi and this is one that is much cheaper and will get you by but it's not ideal: geni.us/UvKyDj
I don’t know why every tech UA-camr I’ve watched is becoming bald, same for UFD Tech. Sorta makes me uncomfortable and somewhat conscious of my own receding hairline.
Blimey ! you know better than trying to remove a component like this ! it's as via stitched ground plane get a big tip in the iron then wind the temp up and flush with leaded solder....but you know all this ????
OMG I didn’t know there was a longer channel! I love watching your deep dives on fixings. This is perfect!!!
Glad to hear that you enjoy them!
You always make it look so easy!! Good to see ya struggle for once like the rest of us ;)
Really enjoy watching your videos, please keep it up.
Hope you're feeling better Steve God bless you man.❤❤❤❤
Good maintenance done TronixFix. I like the video length because you can see all the fixes that are done.
Keep fighting hope you’re doing well ! My son beat Hopkins last year you can do it !
I'm in complete remission now! I'm glad to hear your son beat it as well!
In this case where its flooded I would just replace the complete insides, but I get youre making a video so you gotta do your thing. Cheers!
What if it was full of Mountain Dew?
@@mariokart8715 🤩
Would recommend first to use some fresh or low melt solder on the holes. And about the solder wick - try to cut them in smaller pieces, so the heat will stay on them and they heat up faster. Because if you're using the whole package, the heat will go up the packaging and is not on point. A flat chisel soldering tip and a bit of flux on the solderwick will also help. Best is here also - if available - using a desoldering gun, or a good solder sucker...
I have a question regarding the solder wick: Apparently, one good way to use it without removing the tin on the tip of your iron (And thus potentially damaging it) would be to just melt the tin using the iron, and then applying the end of the wick to the blob only, limiting contact with the tip.
What do you think of this ?
I recently destroyed a Ts101 tip and I don't really know how. The thing is totally oxydized, I used brass whool / a sponge / tinned frequently and it lasted 4 months of very casual use. The last time it worked sort of well was before using the solder wick and now it won't even tin no matter how I clean it.
Maybe a not so good quality tip? Or too much heat applied over a time? If the soldering tip is starting corroding and oxidizing a lot, it could also be fault of solder mixture and/or flux. Have you tried special soldering iron cleaning tools/materials beside the wool/sponge?
For the first question: It's all about thermal tansfer. It's bigger there, where the soldering iron tip is near the solder on the PCB. So using the wick as a kind of extension of the tip would never get the same thermal heat transfer, as it's loosing temperature on distance...
@@psteier Thanks for your answer ! Maybe it was too hot for too long. I use it at around 350°C but the program in the iron stops heating whenever I'm not using it. I don't have any particular cleaning tool, I just use wool to clean when it's hot and sponge when it cooled down a bit to avoid thermal shocks
@@psteier I see, thanks for the explanation
I find sometimes when desoldering that i need to use a narrower wick. As well clip off the solder filled end more often as it can act as a heatsink and pull the heat from the iron tip. I like a 3mm wide wick and a 60w iron. I also use a rosin based flux i make myself and dip the quick as needed. Works great.
Steve. Get a Hakko "K" soldering tip. Truuust me. Allows you to touch both joints simultaneously & push massive heat into the board. You'll get caps out in 4 seconds, and in - potentially less, with practice. Drop that weak conical & see what knives, chisels and bevels have to offer. 400C is my go-to temp for this slightly stubborn board.
My reference: I "specialize" in repairing OG Xbox's
Taking pictures before disassembly is a VERY GOOD IDEA
Merry Christmas Steve.
Looking good Steve! Love the themed xbox.
Love your content and hope life is on the up and up
For the port 1 theres likely corrosion if you lightly scrape it out from within the front with a toothpick and clean it out should pick up everytime. As for the samsung drive i have one with no errors but acts like theres no disc that is nearly mint. But for yours with an error if you boil the belt temporarily till you can get a replacement should fix the stuck tray for the most part and then lightly wipe the lens with a microfiber and clean both magnet contacts very possible to be a good drive still, glad you got a read at the end ❤
I've found that you need a lot of heat when using solder wick. When using wick to clear holes I add flux, punch the iron up to 450-480F to clear the holes with wick and when its done I immediately punch it back down to about 380F and clean the tip to keep the heat from destroying it. This high heat allows the wick to heat up all the way and pull the solder right out of the holes. Never needed a solder sucker after I figured that out since the wick gets *all* the solder when you use the right temperature. Its more difficult on some boards that have large copper traces but the high heat works for most situations without a solder sucker.
I watch your videos all the time
I see other channels purposely mixing low melt solder with the stock solder which makes it easier for them to wick up once it mixes. Not sure if that's what you've tried in this, but if so then forgive my comment, I've just watched a ton of repair videos but never attempted it myself. I love the content though man, super interesting and informative.
A trick I learned years ago when in the bad solder situation. Use a slightly hotter iron and compressed air. It will blow the old crap out!
Love the colour of that. 😮
Capacitor Plague was at it's peak when these came out. I remember a massive amount of Dell Optiplex desktops having to have motherboards replaced at one off my previous jobs because of this.
4:45 Exactly - one stupid photo before you disassemble anything can save you sooo much trouble and headache. Learned it myself after doing "simple" repair that i had to stop working on (because smth important came by) only to return to it after a month, having kinda no clue at all :) ...
I even started to take a picture of a friend borrowing any tools (the person and the thing) so i remember who has what (and for me as well) as it helps preventing those weird situation when one of the side forgets and the other expects return...
Excellent work.
I saw on SOSSGAMING, if you add flux solder to the lead free solder, it lowers the melting temp and makes it easier to suck up.
The first fps I was able to play, and that changed me forever, was Halo. The best of all time is half life 2 but Halo is right there with it. Great music, great story.
Replace the small rubber belt slips on the motor pulley and can't move the sliding bar to be able to eject the tray. The optical unit can be replace with an old one from an old PC.
My Noctua H1 turned up today, some say its the perfect thermal paste for the perfect amount of thermal paste as I got two Xbox's and my new PC motherboard to squirt one up the tukus on hehe
Get yourself some low melt solder,it will help to remove the old solder
Heat the cap wires up and pull them out. Then use the sucker on the side opposite of the iron (both applied) to suck the solder.
That nasty capacitor was the clock capacitor which has acid in it and has lifted traces and can destroy the motherboard. You need to clean with vinegar and then alcohol to kill that acid.
Samsung's patented Stuck Tray Technology™ - perfecting the art of tray-jamming and slap-repairing since forever! Even their 4K Blu-ray players are in on the tradition!
Get yourself one of these, you’re making my heart hurt. YIHUA 948 Standard Desoldering Station.
Doing that much de soldering work using an iron and solder wick is a very tough job and this would make it go so much faster.
I love watching your videos. You never have problems using solder wick. I'm constantly having issues with wick sticking to the joint I'm trying to desolder. Maybe it's the wick I'm using?
As Rossman(PBUH) always said you need at least 10ml of lux for each solder job, nt 2 miniscule drops that evaporate in 1 sec
Not too long ago, I bought a GameBoy Advance SP AGS-101 off eBay for about $60, which has red lines on the screen, and white around the corners. I actually got some of the red lines gone by cleaning the ribbon cable, and the spot it slides into. There's still this big red line left, however, on the left side of the screen, however. That, and the white corners don't really bother me that much, to be honest.
I also cleaned the shoulder buttons with some 95% IPA, as well as the entire board, and cartridge slot. As I was cleaning it, I saw a lot of rust, and saw that the pink-dotted water pad thingy (excuse my lack of knowledge on what it's called) was fully pink. The entire thing had been water damaged! I got the right shoulder button to work properly, and the left one works sometimes. Probably still has some rust on it. That left button, I can deal with. HOWEVER! The cartridge slot is bad. I looked at it, and I think it's bent. Maybe I'm mistaken. All I know is, when I have a game in, it sometimes doesn't read it. But, the WORST part of it, and the reason I choose not to even play it, is the slightest tap on the back will make the game crash (it makes the sound, as if you just yanked the game out while it was running). I had a game going, and I sat it down gently, and it crashed the game. It was at that point I had enough.
Now, it's cool to actually OWN an AGS-101, because they aren't cheap, but it will just sit there, looking nice, because I re-shelled it with a clear black shell. That, with the original black buttons, looks really nice. At least I still have my modded GBA, and my SP AGS-001, which works flawlessly. Just a bad screen. Stinking 001 screens. lol I'm considering buying a ISP screen, and replacing it.
Anyway, the reason I said ALL of this, is because I was wondering if you did repairs for us viewers. I'd rather pay you to fix mine, than spend over $130 for a properly working one.
Yesterday I rebuilt a Series controller and fitted a shell kit in that exact colour. I only paid 99p for the year old controller which had a weak left top switch and sticky joysticks, got it down to its knickers and thoroughly cleaned it out, how one year could accrue such copious amounts of man-gunge escapes me but its now like brand new and I paid £7.99 for the shell kit so a brand new Xbox Series controller for £9.99p is a bargain all year long. I also repaired my digital Xbox One S yesterday, didn't have a 1tb hdd so used a 500gb SSHD I had spare and now onto my Battlefield limited edition One S today which is a dead no power issue, if its truly dead I might whip the 1tb hdd it has which is good and put it into the digital and keep it for spares.
I would recomend a hotter iron, low melt solder, flux and if all this doesnt work a 1mm drill prior to installing new cap. Saves a lot of bother in the long term.
Really want to see the old drive go back in and try with the different disc as neither played in either drive but the second game did in the new one.
I don't know how big the vias are but a small punch from a watch repair kit might be fine enough to fit and clear them out.
Replace drive belt in damaged one clean laser and see if adjustment to laser pots help
I loved low melt solder when I did mine.
Thousands of points in caps only to be sold out when this promotion was happening we were right on top of it trying to get it ordered.
Steve it just wasn't happening today with the soldering
How are you one handing adding solder to your iron? Do you have a pool of solder off camera or something??
Next time , a bigger tip + flood the old solder with new solder and then solder pump works every time. Those boards soak the heat too easily. Also snip the legs a little before install , no need to push the legs like that, just wastes time and effort for no good reason. The orange Tantalum cap C2R6 ? at 23:49 does not look healthy.
For poking hole through soldering use a Jewellers titanium poker. Solder will not stick to titanium.
Would an ultrasonic board cleaner be a good thing?
Have you ever thought about using a de- soldering gun for removal?
Dude.... use the bigger Iron, don't waste time using the little one!!
Despite being better than before, the board seriously needs a MUCH better cleaning. A can of liquid cleaner + a bunch of different brushes will do it.
👍
100% needs a 2nd deep clean immediately following the 1st. TBH a little disappointed in Restorish seeing the state it is still in and how easy it would be in comparison to the initial job. Dare I say unprofessional.
Hello, greetings from Nicaragua, I always follow your videos, can you share with me the link to the welding pump?
How is your recovery? Are you great again? Also, why do you need flux?
Hiya Tronicsfix I have an psp 3000 blue i recently brought off Ebay the person I bought it off had done a mod to play roms onit but didn't install it properly so it needs to be put back to its original oem os but can't do it I'm baffled on how to do it if I send it to you would you be able to fix it for me plus it needs a new screen as there is a little white dot in the screen when you turn it on I will buy a new screen before I send it to you too I'd be extremely grateful if you can repair it for me as I so badly want a blue psp 3000 in my collection ❤❤❤
The hard drive should be replaced, it seem to have a hard time. Also it would be a good time to softmod it before cloning the drive
Change the capacitors as like ASMR to me I love it
😊 I'm not scared of electricity I've been popped so many times. The 220 that knocked me on my butt one day hurt the worst.
What on earth was going on with that first capacitor??
Why not cut the pins on the capacitors shorter before putting them in? That would of made it a lot easier and quicker
Mountain dew flooded xbox.😂
Did U find the problem the number one controller port in the end
so the original xbox dvd drives were not tied to the motherboard in any fashion. it would be far easier to replace with a known good dvd rom drive and just transfer the front of the dvd drive tray to the new drive.
do you sell them after fixing them? if so, where?
Would a ultrasonic cleaner clean this kinda thing up quite well?
How do I go about sending in my N. Switch to be repaired
Does solder harden as it ages? Is it more difficult to remove old solder the older it is?
Rohs does it gets brittle and grows wiskers leaded is better and perfectly safe as long as you dont eat it or lick it
@Lunas2525 well I don't think leaded solder would taste too good!! 😱🤮
Can someone explain why hot air wasn't used please
How come your not using the hot air station
Good job, your nerve are steel
What tube of flux do you use.
I don't know if you have already, but you should show us your airfiltering system, and if you have link to it, if you could share it.
Sure! This is the fume extractor that I use: geni.us/SCfYvvi and this is one that is much cheaper and will get you by but it's not ideal: geni.us/UvKyDj
Get a hakko desoldering gun. Works great everytime
I don’t have popcorn, I have pizza 🍕 ❤
Can you help me with my guy please it doesn’t display no video and the there is a vga light on it can you help me fix it please
I use a wood toothpick works best to open the hole just heat the hole and push it through.
I hope I'm not being too upfront but can you send me a link to your website that fixes Xboxes
Is this an old video resist another mountain dew Xbox
Awesome.
Man was that sitting in the ocean, what a shame.
I think you forgot to put the screws back on the drive motor 1:08:28
If you used a bigger solder tip, the removal would have been easier.
That iron tip isn't transferring enough heat.
Ultrasonic cleaner helped me a lot with nasty boards.
last time i seen the inside of these console when i was putting mod chips in them
No offence but it's really weird that after all of these years of work and experience , you don't have a proper way to clean solder from a hole.
that's exactly how I do clean sometimes. Wick is the best way clean, but solder comes in grades and tends to be difficult.
Why didn't he use the hot air to get the stuff out then sacked it up
1st of all, I'll put whole board to the ultrasonic cleaner before I start change anything :D
Cara você tem que comprar um sugador de solda.
Low melt solder pls....
Gosh Steve whats your cottonbud budget lol. It seems like you go through thousands per video lol.
I don’t know why every tech UA-camr I’ve watched is becoming bald, same for UFD Tech. Sorta makes me uncomfortable and somewhat conscious of my own receding hairline.
In his case I think he had cancer I think he's in remission
@Hellraiser988 I didn’t realize that, I thought it was for awareness. It’s good to at least hear that he’s in the recovery stage
Bet it was alll the Mtn Dew
Have to watch those caps do not like heat,they blow up
only the electrolytic SMD ones... not the THT ones
cool
You didn't fix the controller port
Flooded in Mtn Dew
OMG dude buy yourself an electrical solder sucker.
You do realise that you are loosing heat by not snipping excess used solder wick.
Solder sucker?
second lol
Blimey ! you know better than trying to remove a component like this ! it's as via stitched ground plane get a big tip in the iron then wind the temp up and flush with leaded solder....but you know all this ????
I'd use a tiny drill bitt to get the capacitors through I'm not wasting time heating a million times
no please not, you can damage the vias that way...