Conventional vs Synthetic: Which Oil Do You Want in Your Engine During the Extreme Winter Cold?
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- Опубліковано 27 сер 2024
- In this video we perform a little lab experiment comparing the flow of Conventional versus Synthetic engine oils in your engine during the extreme cold winter months.
My Company BSG Automotive offers Auto Repair services in the greater Chicagoland area.
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Your videos are my Bible on how to take care of my F-150 thank you
I like the way you teach. Its not abrasive and you're not arrogant like some.
I learn a great deal of information from your vids.
Good job!
D S when you come across a arrogant tech, remember he's tried to explain this to hundreds of customer that kept interrupting and telling him he's just trying to upsell him on something they don't need.
The only mechanic I trust....the pennz 5w-30 full synthetic is treating my 5.4 great! Just hit 180k miles! Thanks Brian.
I have listened to Brian on every issue regarding my 5.4 Triton engine. I premtively did the timing job following his 4 part videos, which i watched about 4 times before tacling this job. Thankfully, he did the video about the roller followers, and the one about the melling oil pump before I did my timing job, so I replaced those also. I cannot emphasize enough how important it is to use only OEM parts in this engine. I have used a pint of Marvel Mystery Oil at every oil change since I got the truck, and when i opened up the engine, it was clear that I actually did not need to do the timing job at 153k miles. It was pristine inside. Based on Brian's advice I use 5-30 full Synthetic every 5k miles, but i still start with a pint of MMO. The stuff just works. I now have 172,000 miles on my 2004 F150 with the 5.4 Three Valve Triton, and it runs like a swiss watch. I am replacing the cab corners, and then I will get her repainted. Oh I also preemptively did all the things to the tansmission that Brian recommended. Just listen to him, he is the best Ford mechanic I have ever seen, or heard. Once you get past the quirks the Triton engine has, like the ridiculous plugs, and especially if you use MMO, and the right weight synthetic oil, this engine will go a very long way, and considering what a new truck costs today, It really pays to get all you can out of your vehicle. Like my Dad used to say "Son, that new smell wears off way before the payments end" RIP, Dad, you were one smart mentor.
Yeah I've been using 5w30 full synthetic Mobil 1 with a wix oil filter in my 2004 Ford f150 and it runs like a champ
In winter too?
Do you think 5w20 in winter flow better?or 5w30 flow the same?
This guy has some deep information on his videos. It is a great experiment. 👌
Yea this guy is awesome he knows his stuff
I'm in Canada, all my vehicles run on full syn. Also use syn transfer case fluid as well. Synthetic is the best way to go in these parts
1996 Ford bronco, original odor, 302 V8 has 375k. Does not smoke and runs good. I've use nothing but full synthetic in it.
Interesting. What viscosity and brand you use on that fine machine?
I’m from Regina Saskatchewan and use synthetic in my vehicles. Always change it around 5000kilometers. Even expensive oil is cheap if you think long term
"the sip port" . Great terminology!
I know super technical right?
@@FordTechMakuloco hey man .. I really love your videos. What would you say is the most bulletproof choice for F-250 diesels. What year and Driveline combo would you say is the way to go. I'm thinking about buying a used truck
Brian has helped me keep my f150 going with the expertise he gives on these videos
Thanks for the effort to show the difference. 👍
FordTechMakuLoco and Project Farm are the true heros of UA-cam!
My experiment was I tried conventional 5w30 for a few days (to help clean up the engine) and it was about minis twenty two days in a row. I recorded the engine cranking over and starting with the conventional and then the next day with 0w30 in it. Cranking speed was almost double.
How is using conventional oil help cleaning the engine.
Full synthetic all the way! I live in the Midwest and the car I use for work never fails to start and run like it should because of full synthetic oil since day 1. Extreme temps and operating cycles beg for full synthetic oil and it's worth the extra money spent
Been using Full Synthetic oil for 20 years with No Mechanical issues! All my car's engines are are in excellent working condition like New because of QS Full Synthetic. They start in the coldest weather on the first crank.
What always amazes me is pulling a valve cover on an engine that has had synthetic oil all its life. The metal literally looks like new - shocking!
I grew up in Kenosha County, Wisconsin. I have been using Mobile one since 1992. I have a 1998 Ford Windstar that still hasn't had a head of yet and has almost 300k on it has used Mobile One its entire life.
It will be 60° Tomorrow and 70° by sunday, but absolutely love this experiment my friend. Synthetic all the way!!!! 👍👍
Wow what a difference....Thanks for taking the time.
Synthetic is no doubt better in extreme temps whether its cold or hot. But most people wont gain anything from using synthetic oil unless you keep your car to 250,000 miles or so. Keeping your oil changed and clean is way more important in my opinion.
Great video, Brian. I've seen other tests of oil done in similar fashion and the results are very much the same. Synthetic oil is, by far, superior for many reasons. Keep up the good work.
Love the channel my man from a Ford tech in Europe .
Thanks!
I live in Minnesota Duluth and I like using valvoline synthetic blend. 5-20 2003 and 2013 f-150 it works perfectly. Good video man.
Thanks for posting this, did no good with a dead battery this morning, but that's what the cold does, if there's a weak link, winter finds it!
I really appreciate the time and effort you put into making these videos!! Thanks again!!!!
I am impressed by the 5W30 natural's pouring. Poured better than it did back in my day before synthetics.
I think modern conventional oils have a small blend of group 3 oil. There's no way a straight conventional group 2 oil would meet modern API specs.
For my cars, I use only synthetic oil. For the last few years, I'm using Motul 5W30, 100% Synthetic oil.
In the winter months, between November and April, I switch to 0W30 Synthetic oil.
For manual transmission, I use Motul "Gear 300", SAE 75W90 100% Synthetic Ester Gear oil.
Hey neighbor.
Unbelievable weather were having. Love your videos. Keep em coming.
It has been BRUTAL here Chi-Beria. I only use full synthetic in my truck for this reason. Usually Castrol edge, Mag 1 or Valvoline.
Mobile One Full Synthetic is also a great choice
@Mike R. I agree Castrol Edge is all I run. 5W30 in my 97 Mercury with 255k on it.
I'm nowhere near those extreme temps,, but synthetic is the way to go. Mobile One full synthetic for me. I changed to 5-30 what Brian says to do after timing chain and cam phasers job.. 305,000 miles and counting
Mobile One does a great job. A true 100% full synthetic motor oil
@@LEMMYKISGOD Its not full synthetic Lol
@@LEMMYKISGOD Mobil 1 "Full Synthetic" is a great oil, but it is not "100% Synthetic". Only a few brands are "100% synthetic", which is different than "full synthetic". Look on the bottle and most will read "Full synthetic", not "100% Synthetic". In order to be 100% synthetic it has to meet certain criteria. Mobil 1 still really good, though, and I do use Mobil 1 Extended Performance in some of my family members' cars.
John Anthony Cantergiani I use Royal Purple in my 2005 Honda Accord it has 77 k miles and inside the oil cap look brand new too.
I just got a 2001 Ford Expedition 150,000 k miles and put in Mobile 1 oil full synthetic oil and mobile 1 filter too for now but I think I might put Royal purple oil and filter in it next or KnN oil filter I like a lot KnN oil filter
If you're talking about AMSOIL, Royal Purple, and other salesman backed synthetic motor oils then I'll pass on those. I'll stay with my Group IV level synthetics. Not interested in paying a sales commission for my oils
I recommend 5w 30 in Fords , nothing else 👌🏼 . Believe me , you wont regret it . I live in 110-115 degree weather in summers , and 45-60 degree weather in winter time .
LOL that handle !! You must be a Henry Ford fan no?
teecuz bruh huh ? I own a chevy and a ford , not a fan of just one , i just run factory recommend stuff in my rides ? 💁🏽♂️
@@Mrfurballs
Pinky poo Butt , this rating came out of research, FORD, GM CHRYSLER, what they ALL FOUND , was heavier oil tended to cause STICKING PISTON RINGS Was the reason of much of the DAMAGE
Cheers From NJ USA. 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Nice demo. There is no denying the synthetic is the winner here!
There has to be other benefits Other then just the viscosity at cool temps. Longer life, doesn't break down as fast and also offers better lubrication at all temps.
Great video! Just went through that polar vortex in Illinois and temps mean everything at this point.
265K on my 2005 E250, I've always used 5W30 Mobile 1. I change it every 10-15K miles. Great van, I've had very few problems.
I'm in the opposite conditions... In the summer temps can be over 120F and I would only use Synthetic oil to ensure the engine is protected in these extreme cold or warm temps.
I watched the same experiment a while back all 4 were 5w-30 and I know it was Mobil 1, Royal Purple, I think Wal-Mart brand they use in their auto center and one other. Put all four in a deep freezer for 24 hours and then dumped all 4 simultaneously and the Mobil 1 beat the other 3.
It was down to -28 here too. I use synthetic motor oil and also have a 100W heat pad installed directly under the oil pan, which I left plugged in overnight. Started right up, no problems.
I've done similar oil tests myself. Interestingly enough, on the opposite side of the oil's temperature range, a hot conventional oil pours faster than synthetic. The reason is that conventional oil gets thin and loses viscosity when hot, while synthetic oil holds it's viscosity when hot and doesn't thin out as much.
Your a brave man wading into the conventional vs synthetic debate. I was online with a bunch of GM engineers 25 years ago and nothing started a fight as easily as this back then. I’m 100% with you, synthetic is far better for a number of reasons. I’m gambling that it will even save the GM High Feature 3.6L from chain stretch under the worst conditions. All short trip driving and my wife uses all +300 hp as often as she can. Her car is 12 yrs old and so far so good.
Not only does the full synthetic flow better but it lubricates better and is more resistant to heat.
Great video fordTech
I like synthetic better as I think it also cleans better too. Even use blended if not full synthetic.
I have used full syn for 19 years, change filter every 5k, oil at 10k....no downside. Brand? Walmart Supertech.
srercrcr I do the same, have always used royal purple but I’m thinking of switching. My question is how many miles have you gotten out of this method? Just curious? I have a friend of mine with over 300,000 mikes and only CHANGES his oil at 50,000 miles! He changes filter every 5000 and adds a quart of oil! Insane
@@cl112688 I wonder why he waits for 50k miles?? I mean oil changes are not that expensive, and its cheap insurance! Crazy if you ask me.
@@carstuff4u942 He burns a quart of oil every 5K and adds a new quart at that point, so when he has gone to 50K miles, it is not the same oil that is in there from the beginning. The oil has been fully "changed" (according to his method) several times by that point, so he really doesn't have 50K miles on the oil.
@@cl112688 a 2000 Explorer went 220K and never burned a drop,, and a 2014 Explorer with 66K.
which is also dexos rated making it no different than any other dexos rated oil that is twice the price.
Your videos are very informative and thorough. I really appreciate your knowledge and help with all issues on the Ford product line. I only wish I lived closer so I could bring my vehicles to you. Thanks again and keep the videos going!
I lived through the big storm of 1964 in the middle of Saskatchewan in a motel. I had an early satellite picture of the storm and it went from Alaska to San Francisco, and Vancouver Island to Hudson Bay. We were there cuz some relative died. The wind chill took the minus 60F down to minus 100F. My dad never shut the car off. But we did have to keep calling the govt power company to keep the heat on in the motel. My brother and I enjoyed using the electric snow blower to keep the walks clear for the owner until we burned it out. My grandfather told me that they used to use kerosene or diesel fuel in their crankcases on the farm in that kind of weather and even replacing the antifreeze when it got down past 66 below where the best water/antifreeze mix freezes.
Correct me if im wrong... But with negative temperatures, factory recommended oil 5w-30 can be replaced with a 5w-20 in those conditions, maybe even 0w???
Great experiment! Sold me
While I agree with your testing as far as it goes. I spent many years in Alaska, at temps much lower than -20 for months on end and, as long as the battery was decent, never had a problem turning over my 390cid engine in my F150, or the 300cid in my father's F100. Both used conventional oil (my dad was a believer in Havoline 10W40), and both exceeded 100K with no major interal damage. That probably says more about the older engines than the newer ones. I use high mileage synthetic in my 2012 F150 with 170K on it. I just had the cam phasers replaced and am hoping for many more miles. Thanks for all the info you provide for my F150 and presenting it in a way that is easy to follow.
Good test! I live in NW Minnesota & we hit -30F a few times each winter. Always ull synthetic for me. In the winter i always warm my engine for a short time too.
Nice garage experiment Brian stay warm brother ✊
I have been using full synthetic since 1980, not exactly new but for those that do not know.. Early synth products probably were not as good as they are today but you would be nuts to put regular Dino oil in your car today. The flow rate would be just one of the many benefits.
Thanks for taking the time to test this!
This test was thought out in a very realistic way. Since both oils are the same viscosity technically they should pour the same in these conditions. This test proves two things. 1. Not all 5w oils have the same cold pour point, some 5w oils are thicker or thinner than others. 2. Pennzoil synthetic 5w is actually a very thin 5w oil. This test actually proves that this type of Pennzoil 5w is a very thin oil and this is why it flows better in sub zero temps. A way oil company can claim better performance in the way of thin and easy to pump. Proof of marketing gimmicks right here folks. I personally believe and use synthetic oils, in fact I use this type and viscosity used in this test, but saying because it's synthetic is why it flows better in extreme low temps is not correct.
Conventional Valvoline high mileage 5 30 with qt of Lucas fram tuff guard running strong 100,000 miles live in Indiana
This brings me back to a '89 S10 Blazer I had, with a 4.3 V6 - odometer said 77k miles ... but it was bought from a suburb of NYC, and the odometer showed signs of tampering (my guess was 277k just from the condition of it ...). Anyway, it burned a quart of oil every FIFTY miles in winter! I would dump a quart of 20w-50 conventional in every morning. Cylinder #3 would foul the plug every 3 days like clockwork. We had to keep the case of oil in the house, otherwise it would take half an hour to get the full quart in the engine. When it was below 20°F, it acted exactly like molasses, laying down ribbons of what resembled molten plastic that stacked up on top of each other 3-4 deep before they blended in, lol.
When I removed that engine a year later, there was a 1/8" or larger ridge at the top of all 6 cylinders, but #3 was close to 3/16"! 😂
You should point out that syntentic might cause leaks on older engines. There’s no denying it flows better in cold temperatures tho . My 2006 ram 1500 the syntectic oil uses about 2 litres between oil changes and Dino oil it uses none .
more volume more pressure in synthetic great video Brian stay warm
That's a great demonstration
That's like back in the day we didn't use Quaker State or any paraffin base oil. In below zero temperatures in Upper Michigan the oil wouldn't flow out of the container.
I've been a synthetic guy ever since my brother told me (who was in the navy at the time) the navy was using it exclusively in their turbine engine 'wet' bearings.
People have been calling me stupid ever since. I don't care...It works wonders...
Synthetic also offer much better lubricity at extreme temps as well.
Excellent demonstration in cold temps! Thanks!
-28F? Oh hell no….
I only use synthetic in my diesel along with Archoil. Have for years. Rotella T6. 5w in winter and 15w in summer. Change every 6 months. The difference is noticeable, especially in cold temps.
Royal Purple is worth it if you drive over 1,000 miles a week like I have in the past. 10-12k miles on oil changes. Add 1qt at about 7k. This was on a 4.6L 2v with well over 500k miles of very hard use. Oil analysis is your friend.
Synthetic oil wouldn't hurt, but if you keep the engine [block heater] plugged in like you're supposed to at least a few hours before driving, there's no point. An added advantage is you can keep a small cabin heater going as well both for your comfort and to reduce brittleness & breakage of interior plastics. And you can keep a small battery warmer blanket going too, to bring up the temperature of the battery a bit.
There's a LOT less resistance torque when turning over an engine when it's warm due to a block heater, than just switching to a properly rated synthetic. That reduces mechanical stress on many parts, especially your starter, and the amperage which is drawn to power it. If the battery voltage is a little higher because it's warm, and the starter has to work less hard because the engine is warm, much less amperage will be drawn which will make it easier on all electrical components too.
Sure, if I can get 10-30 brand-name synthetic on sale, I'll always use that. But it's more important to check/repair your block heater and cable(s) at the end of October first.
Oh yeah. If you have an old vehicle don't be afraid to switch to a national brand synthetic.
Don't be shocked when your first few oil changes look nasty. Its cleaning your motor.
I've switched 80s, 90s and 2000s vehicles and equipment that was old and high miles to synthetic oil all to positive effect
I've heard of some people having issues causing more leaking because the oil is more slippery. If the engine isnt an oil leaker and has good compression then yes I'd switch right away if you can. Otherwise domt put synthetic oil in an old clunker
@@jonathoncatterson8901
Don't switch on an engine with more than 50K or you will end up with leaks
excellent idea, overslepta bit?
should add a semi synth, that's my favorite
I feel your pain, I live about 150 strait west of you, cold as heck here too
still -2 right now
WELL DONE....
Great demonstration
Best thing is to keep the car garaged where it stays warm in the first place.
So true but not always an option.
I have a heated 3 car garage but own 5 vehicles so it still isn't an option for my poor Escape and Focus.
That is a great point. My question is what do you do when you spend 8-12 hrs. at work and you have to start your vehicle when temps have been in the low to negative range with it sitting in an unprotected, non climate controlled parking lot? That is why synthetic oil is needed for engine protection.
@@philtripe your comment has nothing to do with oil.... What are you smoking lol.
@@philtripe Do you drive a TESLA ?? 🔥
I have a 2006 expedition I bought with 136,000. After driving it about 1,000 miles I started to hear the cam phaser noise, ugggg!!!!
The first oil change I did I used the motor craft 5-20 and motor craft filter. Within 50 miles the noise went completely away. I’ve now switched to 5-30 per the advise on this Chanel. 192,000 and still running great.
Just got done changing the transfer case input seal, big job, that case is heavy. Doing both the front and rear pinion/yoke seals today, plus replacing the fluid.
Ford like ford fluids i guess
I enjoy your videos, thanks for sharing.
The only thing I can see is you didn't squeeze the cups for the cold test, but still cool to see how much difference the cold weather makes.
Oil/gasoline prices have come down considerably and they function the same. Motor Oil has not come down, in fact it's gone up, add the synthetic now we have extremely high prices. Over the road trucking companies have been using Conventional Motor Oils, ref: Shell Rotella 15/40. This is the life's blood of their engines and it's working just fine. If anyone is going to jump on synthetic they would except the cost is out of line...
I have learned so much from watching you and apply your methods of testing, diagnosing and repairing. I love videos like this. It's very useful information that is what I now realize- overlooked. Have you ever thought about doing a video on the differences of oil filters? I wanna know what you think about it.
Cool experiment, nice observation... on the flip side; how do they react in high temperature ?
conventional oil versus synthetic oil
Might be Interesting
Thanks, your videos on Ford A/C systems diagnosis has helped me become a much more focused technician.....ty...
Just change the grade of oil you are using in cold conditions if you want to maintain similar kinematic viscosity characteristics. Some older cars and motorcycles used to do that.
Mobil 1 in the early 90s, threw regular and synthetic bottles of oil in freezer, took them out a week later, regular oil would pour, but very, very slow, synthetic oil poured no problem, next the put the two oil in 2 frying pans and heated them up, the regular oil did not do well at all, the synthetic oil had no negative effects
“Sip port”. Lol. Spoken like a true mechanic. 👍😅
I love penzoil. I have seen people who use good filters (Purolator Boss is my favorite) and penzoil platinum and send in their oil for analysis and go 10k miles + between changes with no additional wear metals and still plenty of additive package left
Just found yr channel it's great learned a lot. I have Crown Vic, Maurader and Explorer. Thanks.
It was -34 at my house in central Minnesota this morning. I use only synthetic oils in both my truck and my car. My truck sits outside all the time and it started right up this morning at -34. After a 20 minute warm up I was on my way to work.
what about the synthetic blend oil?
From what I understand It would probably be hard to do a good test on synthetic blend oils since they can be anything from 5% synthetic 95% conventional to the other way around since there is no set standard on them.
Very good I realise this was four years ago, but the physics hasn’t changed. I have read that in North America and in Canada people plug-in heating pads under the engine bay. Maybe in that sort of circumstance you could still get away with conventional….
Gee whiz I'm glad I used quote"full synthetic" on my 5.4 hunk of crap for that amount of time I spent working in Williston, ND. I also went to the 5-30 like Brian suggested, after the original took a dump from out of control phasers and had the Fred Jones reman installed
Big difference. Thanks again
Good information. I wish it went further.
* outcome of going from 0W-20 to 0W-40? Good or bad?
* is changing oil once a year enough? Under 5000k miles per year.
* many cold starts, low mileage yearly less than 3k, is oil change once a year enough?
Today the different between conventional vs synthetic is 15 bucks. Here in vegas we don't get that cold. But if those extra 15 bucks will save me money in the long range why not. I been using full synthetic between 0w-20 to 5w-40 for different application and every time u remove the valve cover u see a spotless clean engine.
Luis, not making an effort to 'break it off of you' here...but "every time you remove the valve cover"...like that is something you
do with your car(s) routinely?? Maybe you meant, remove the oil filler cap instead??
The point of the comment is when ever the reason I have to remove the valve cover, by looking is easy to tell good interval of oil change and quality oil been use. Sorry if the comment lead in the wrong meaning. Of course by looking at oil filler cap u can tell a lot too.
@@luisbaez88 ,WHATEVER WORKS FOR YOU MAN...IT'S YOUR CAR!
@@theguy6199 same to you
Penzoil aren't actually full synthetic, they are just marketed as Synthetic as this is allowed in the US. They are made from Group 3 oils, while full synthetic are PAO group 4. In Europe if an oil is called synthetic it has to actually be synthetic or else it can only be labeled synthetic technology.
You must have missed the part where I used air quotes when saying full synthetic...
You should do a vid on the f150 wheel hub bearings. We have tons of issues with these.
Great idea, I have a 2012 I think has bad hubs because of whirring noise with lower speeds slowing down and speeding up. Can’t find cheap good replacement hubs, and no one to help me replace them. It’s 4x2 xlt 2012 supercab. Really wish I had help or trusting guy to do it for me...
New subscriber here. Just watched your other video where I asked you the brand of black gloves you wear. I bought a 2004 F-150 4.6L couple of years ago. Was a garage-kept one-owner with 62,870 miles on it; approximately 81,000 now. Not a work truck. Still looks new, but I have no garage to keep it in. Sitting here thinking I'm not going to be able to afford expensive repairs that will surely come sooner or later. I'm retired and not sure how much work I'm going to be able to do myself, but you give me hope toward doing as much as I can, where I
Great demonstration video.
Hellooooo from CA. Sunny and high of 64 here today. Don't know how you guys make it out there!
04 F-150 5.4..230k mi...Valvoline vr1 20w50...-22 degree's last nite...i left it run all nite $10 worth gas in 13hrs idleing....didn't worry about startup...engine has never been apart :)
20w50? I'm not on the 5w20 bandwagon, but why THAT high? Trying to stop a main seal leak?
Truck has never leaked oil....20w50 runs 10k mi without any trouble....thin synthetic oil won't
Makes me wonder, what causes more engine wear?: 13 hours at idle, or one cold start at -22f? Not that any of us can know without actual testing, just a thought
Idleing won't hurt it...cold starts might....battery can't take -40 wind chill so leave run. 0 degree's and above it starts fine.
Immediately after it leaves the factory...lookup vr1
I am about due for my yearly oil change, I only drive to work and school so I don't put too many miles on my f150. I have been using Castrol gtx magnetec but Walmart was out of 5w20 regular, they only had the high mileage and I don't need that yet so I grabbed the white bottle and almost bought it luckily I realized it was conventional and just ordered the oil online.
Pennzoil conventional been good for me in my old lawnmower over 4000 hours and Mobil 1 in my pickup truck just under 200000 miles both good oils
Mobil one heat shears easily compared to pennzoil ultra platinum
thank you!
You should freeze it in a metal cup or container.. Would love to see how thick the conventional get versus the full-synthetic.
I use to imagine that you lived in the garage :p