Get your parts to run true in a non adjustable chuck. YOU MUST WATCH THIS!
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- Опубліковано 20 вер 2024
- If you have a non-adjustable chuck on your lathe, and would like your parts to run true, you should watch this video. I'll show you how to get the best results from your worn, or out of line chuck. Every time! This is a proven technique to deliver amazing results.
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That was a good suggestion Joe. I'used a lathe for 73 years now and I can still learn something new.
Thanks,
Bill
Its a good solid band aid for getting past a problem.
Finally, another real machinist commenting! Someone whos mind is open to alternative ways to solve problems.
You're a wise man Bill - you are aware you don't know everything and can learn from everyone.
A lot of these videos are quite old but still and always will be relevant. Thank you for showing all your tricks. To be honest, I think I got a better education on UA-cam than I could have gotten at any course I could have taken. UA-cam has turned into a bunch of snowflakes the last few years, yet is SUCH a valuable tool to learn and educate yourself. UA-cam is ONLY valuable because of content creators such as yourself. Thank you so much Joe. I bought the machines, never having laid a hand on one in my life. Now I'm making parts for a customer and have paid for my machines many times over just from him alone. I even built my own rotary phase converter using UA-cam and practical machinist forum. I can't say enough how much I've learned from you and other machinists online. Take care buddy.
Ive never used a lathe, I dont own one, but this video was so well produced, recorded, edited and explained that I watched the whole thing.... title should be changed to "How to film a "how to" video. Good stuff.
Thank you. I give it my best effort.
Thanks. I chuckled with fond memories of my Dad, a tool maker for his working life, showing me this technique. He is still making chips with is south bend 13" and Bridgeport J Head Miller. The chuckle came when Joe blew the chips off the lathe. I could hear my dad scolding me to be careful not to blow debris into the ways, under the carriage and tail stock wipers. Appreciated your video for technique and in appreciation of my dad.
I cannot believe I have not come across your channel before, just seen it in the past few days and I must say your videos are fantastic! I love watching machinists and learning about machining on youtube, but some of the others can be quite.... wordy. You get to the business, show what is needed and not a bit more! That is the way to do it! You don't let interruptions stop you, and you don't even mention them, just pause, start again and keep going, you do not waist a second! You give enough information that even a beginner can understand the concept, but can educate even those with experience.
Thank you for your videos, you are doing an amazing job!
Thanks for the comment. Glad you stopped by.
You made a nice collet, more accurate than most store bought ones. Thank you, you're the best.
This was the first thing I thought: He made some kind of collet.
Thanks for this Joe! It took me about two hours to actually get it to work. But I am rank green hobbyist with used Taiwan lathe and have been teaching myself. It has been a struggle , moving my lathe and setting it up on my back patio , wiring it , tramming it , leveling it and tramming it again. Crashing it , rebuilding it , bearings, tramming it again . Making it run true has been a big learning curve but I keep on keeping on! After shimming the closest my three jaw chuck has been about .009 and I am thrilled. Now with your collet/bushing trick I have repeated consistiently .003 everytime with my rudimentary and very limited tooling. Occasionally I have measured .001 surely the tolerances of my measurements have alot to do with just how precise I can consistiently achieve. I have bushings for 1" , .875 ,
.500 and .257" Just to get repeatability at this tolerance has been a major step forward. It is a painstakingly slow process but now that I have the bushings made the setup moves right along it my production of simple parts
Thanks for the video Joe. I am a home machinist with a knackered old 1950's lathe. This trick will be very useful to me.
I do not have the money or space available to upgrade my machine.
Thank you again for taking the time and trouble to share your methods.
Best wishes from England.
Thanks. Getting it done with the tools on hand is the point of this video. Greetings from Austin Texas.
Gary Hardman Ii
I’ve been a filter and turner for over 50 years and still learning tips from your videos they have been a great help keep up the videos
Thanks for posting Joe
Regards John
Thanks John. I bet all of our backgrounds have given us opportunities to come up with tricks we could all appreciate.
Great videos, I am completely self taught machinist, I’ve been a welder/ fabricator for 20 years. Got into machining about 7 years ago. It’s been very educational to watch your stuff. I can make some great parts by hand but learning these type of tricks come in really handy. Kudos and thanks
Excellent!! It's videos like this that help train your brain to figure out problems on its own.
I enjoy a good challenge.
You work so fast and effortlessly that the lathe seems like a part of you. Great job.
Thank you very much. I have countless hours running these machines and sometimes I feel like I am just watching my hands do the work. The lathe is one of my favorite machines to run.
It’s a great person who’s willing to share his vast experience and expertise. Thanks very much.
Thanks for watching.
Joe P is the best. No nonsense, straight-forward solutions to common problems. Joe solved my issue with this fix. Great work Joe and thanks for answering my email on this issue.
I thank you very much. I am a beginner machinist & have used substandard tools my whole life, to try and accomplish tasks the tools weren't meant for or are in too poor a condition to do so, so I find cataloging tricks like these to be very useful.
"just get the right tool" isn't always possible or worth the effort.
Agreed.
Whoever does not understand the usable value of the procedure shown here, is not aware of how much he has to learn!
Thank you for seeing the value in this.
Abso-bloomin-lutely.
If you dont understand why and what happened to make the spin true you shouldnt be touching any machine
Joe, I took my machinist course at the tech college in 83. If you would have been one of our instructors, there would be many more skilled machinists in this area. We had to learn on the job as poorly taught apprentices right out of school. Im now retired after 35 years and do engine machining as a hobby. Your videos are the best on youtube. You are a very knowledgeable man. I Admire you for passing it on to the next generation.
Thanks for that.
R&C Head Serviceq
Been using this method since 1971. It a very old technic. Was learned from a machinist who used it since 1938.
There are several old tricks that can make one's life much easier if the old timer will teach you.
Superb method for us home gamers with knackered old lathes. I commented when you first posted this, and have used this gem several times since.
Once again , Thank you Joe for sharing your knowledge and experience.
Joe P is the best. Straight-forward, quick and low cost solution to a common lathe problem. Joe P keep up the good work. By the way I am now subscriber 13,679.
Thank you very much.
Thanks. You just proved there’s a solution to every problem you just have to find it.
Or hope someone else does and posts it on UA-cam.
Great comment.
Cancer?
With somewhere over 45 years of machining in job and big machining sops this is the first time I have seen a machinist vice used to hold a part like that in the machinist vise used lik that to hold a part for drilling. School every day eh. Thanks bud. Befor I retired i lived my life dealing with a .030 runout. Oh if I had only known this, , , WOOHOO EH ! Big thanks new friend.
I keep that little vise on my welding table and grab it for stuff like this. Works well.
Custom collet of sorts. Neat trick Joe, I like it
Dr. Pi,
One of the best videos out here in the machining world, very clever! I hope everyone understands the point of this lesson. I cut a bushing with a slitting saw, worked amazing. Thank you Joe!
My dad bought a used lathe back in the early 80s, his chuck was not center as well.
I think that is what he did back then. It let him get the job done which let him buy a better chuck that was adjustable like yours is. Thank you keep up with the great ideas and videos.
You can't please every one all the time. Too bad for them, you have shown us "how to" in case you don't have $1000.00 worth of collects.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge, the rest of the "smart ones"can learn something.👍...
John
Yup. Lots of people bitching about this needlessly. 'waste of time!" "Buy soft jaws!" "Buy a better chuck!" "Buy a better lathe since yours is obviously shit if there's that much run-out!"
I just don't get people's tendency to poo-poo on good workarounds for the times you're in a tight spot and so against clever solutions. that's truly the essence of machining - creative solutions to problems. Anyone can flip a switch and turn a wheel. It's the setup and technique that makes the machinist.
@cjhills how bout those of us that don't have a collet chuck? How bout when you don't have the specific collet on hand and are in a pinch and can't order one fast enough? It has nothing to do with money or the price of a collet.
This is a clever solution to a real potential shop problem. Not everyone has the luxury of having ample time to buy a collet for an operation when it comes up.
This is where 5C machinable soft collets come in handy.
Basicly you're making collets for your chuck that are not concentric to your lathe.
Still liked a lot of other video's you're making! Great tips for me as a beginner. Helpful as Alway's. :D
Love the Vice idea! My 8 fingers thank you!
Since I was very young I have always been interested in metal work, and fabrication. I was very impressed in your instructional technique and even thought I had no idea as to the methods you showed, I was able to learn a great deal and subscribed to your site. Good Job!
Thank you
Fantastic idea again Joe!!!! 👍👍👍 only wish I had a boss/lead an like you Joe 55 years ago. As an apprentice toolmaker many moons ago, we had no leadership to speak of. We had to stumble around discovering ideas like this by ourselves. The boss knew exactly what he wanted part to do, but had no idea how six of us apprentices were to make it. We were left to our own devices. Most all of the newbies quit working as it was very discouraging working for the company. Only two of us were toooooo stupid to stay, but we thought ourselves an awful lot……..
Hi Joe, I'm 14 and I had so much fun learning from you. Thank you :)
Outstanding. If you don't understand something, or just have a question, feel free to ask.
@@joepie221 Thank you so much Joe. I am going to try and weld two axles together. I'm on a few Face Book pages of awesome communities. My Dad is so happy to see the Village is raising me. And now you are part of my village too. I have to have my lathe centered. I will e mail you a link and show you what I have. I think there's a chance, it has the adjustable screws for me to center it. It's a wonderful machine that my Dad inherited from a great family. Dad says it has the good spirit of the Russian immigrant that once owned it. Looking forward to showing this to you and maybe if you like , you can make a video about it. Thank you Joe.
@@JamesDoylesGarage Hey James I hope your lathe is producing good results and you are enjoying using and learning on such a wonderful thing. Wish I had access to a lathe when I was 14!
@@martinda7446 Hi Martin, I'm juggling so many things to learn. Today I was fitting a Cadillac Control arm into a Blazer \ S10 knuckle. Still have to take what Joe's taught me and put it to use as I just picked up the metal I need this past Friday. Come and hang out with me on my FB page. James Doyle Longevity. Take care.
@@JamesDoylesGarage Fantastic. That is what we want to hear. Outstanding.
G'day from Australia Joe, I'm a 60yo machinist(semi retired) and just discovered your channel yesterday. Your micro wrench ("spanner" in Aus) caught my attention and have since watched every single vid on your mini lathe build....absolutely loved every one (subscribed)....you, my friend are an absolute craftsman! I"ve been using this old (sacrificial collet) trick for many years and still do when i couldn't be bothered putting my 4 jaw up or if i want to quickly machine multiple components (i also make lots of parts for models etc and my 3 jaw is less than perfect). The reason for this comment is i simply can't believe how many remarks you get from armchair experts! As usual, people like this usually show just how limited their expertise really is, judging from their ridiculous comments!!! It makes me furious and i'm sure it probably angers you too. I really don't know why you even bother wasting your time responding to these morons! I guess you're just too nice...lol. I really didn't think there were many people around as obsessed with precision AND aesthetics as i am! Huge respect buddy...keep it up.
Thank you for your comment and subscription. I hope you enjoy the channel. The steam engine series has some good content as well.
@@joepie221 yes, i'm about to start watching the steam engine series.
@@miningwayne935 If all goes well, that little steam engine will power the mini lathe.
@@joepie221 that would be so cool! Can't wait to see the lathe running!
Amazing work thanks for your teaching
Love your channel! An experienced machinist sharing tips acquired through many years in the trade. Us hobbyists would take a hundred years to get that same experience! So thank you for sharing your wisdom!
Happy to share it.
a machinist for many years I leaned a lot on this channel, thank you Joe
Thanks for the comment. We can all bring something to the table.
Nice technique and well done - thank you for sharing that great tip.
Good content. Always a pleasure Joe!
Glad you enjoy it!
This is a typical solution for a handy man with ample of time. As a pro I prefer to use an independent 4-jaw chuck. Even then I can put a small three-jaw chuck into the i-4-j-c. Always keep the chuck nice and clean, don't clamp too hard and use the same key hole (mark it). Also i use small strips of thin copper to get the work-piece within 0,05mm. But I work at a shipyard with big lathes up to 4,5 meters diameter and 18 meters length and we have no large series to produce.
Gotta say, In all my years of machining, I never saw another guy in any shop I've ever worked in, put round stock in a 4 jaw chuck. He would have been laughed out of the shop then fired. Your type of large diameter work is another world. You have my respect. This fix is good for guys that don't have a full shop of accessories to lean on and need that second side to run true. Thanks for the comment.
Hey joe,
wonderful video! out of curiosity, why would you never put round stock in a 4 jaw chuck? Is it due to just being a time waster in a job shop?
Joe Pieczynski For the last 4 years, I've barely used a 3 jaw and clocked all round bar in a 4 jaw. When you've done it as often as I have, then it's nearly as quick. I should mention the 4 jaw is 30" Dia and fixed using 8 x M20 cap heads and changing over is a job in itself using the 5 tonne overhead crane. Also I do a lot of none round work. I've been a turner, both manual and cnc for 30 years.
If I had an existing piece of round stock that was already to size, and that diameter had to be true to less than 5 tenths with relation to what I was going to cut, I wouldn't' have any choice but to put it in an independent chuck. Even a collet might have too much runout for some classes of work.
My days with those big machines are well in my past. I too would want as many jaws a possible on parts that big. Thank God for overhead cranes.
This is great information for old beat up machines that have bad chucks that have a horrible run out,and i went through that i couldnt afford to buy any new parts ,for my uncles shop.And these are things you have to do when money is gone,and customers still need their parts
Glad you get it. Tips like this really do get the job done when money is tight.
Thanks for the subscription. Just a Pipefitter with a drag racing problem and keys to my buddies machine shop. I appreciate your videos. They help me really understand what I'm doing and why. My parts and accuracy of repairs are better thanks to you. Thanks again GE
Thanks for that. Drive safe!
Joe
I also wonder why you make the statemnent "do not run the lathe with nothing in the chuck".
Can you explain please??
Wonderful video once again you are one of my gurus
Dan Bentler
Seattle
Hi Dan. I see many of our internet guys run the spindle with a chuck without a part in it. The scroll is a ring with a helical groove in it that sits freely in the chuck body. There is nothing to stop it from spinning at a different rate than the spindle if there is no load on it. Take all your jaws out some day and start and stop your machine. This scroll has a mind of its own and could easily launch or trap the chuck jaws causing injury or damage. Its just not a good practice to spin an empty chuck. Good question.
I was wondering that too. Thanks for the clarification.
Thanks for taking time to explain.
Dan Bentler.
Even if your 3 jaw is not out of wack this is a good technique to use when you want to avoid jaw marks. It’s like making a homemade collet out of a 3 jaw. I guess you could make a whole set of these “collets”...
Cal30m1 Is correct , after high school in late 1970s worked in machine shop , superior air products ,Sayreville NJ ,we made brass collets to compensate our very worn old three jaws , a large brass collet was used to hold hex stock ,preventing damage to stock being machined .
Agreed. These collars are also good for spreading surface pressure out on thinner or flexible parts.
Had no idea where you're going with this until the a-ha moment near the end. Great trick and great video. Thanks!
Thanks for watching.
So glad I saw your comment, I thought exactly that but as I'm new to machining I went with it.........glad I did,all these little tricks, great. Also why are people mentioning collets surely if your chucks off (centre)then so will the collet (centre)? Just found your channel....subbed.thanks
@@rolandsmith2141 Collets rely on the machine's ground nose taper and the chuck is usually dependent on an adapter. You can have precise collet performance with a poor chuck.
Amazing. I watched for 25 minutes before I understood what you were doing. Just bought my first metalworking lathe. This is pure gold. Thank you.
Awesome, thank you! I hope you visit again.
One of the main reasons I go to youtube is because I love to learn something new. If I don't learn anything else tonight I can go to sleep tonight knowing it was a success. Many thanks again
John Fink
Thanks John. This is a very important step in making a quality part.
Thank you so much Joe for sharing!
Wish i had a lathe, man i would love working and playing with it
Have an old lathe, having fun returning it to a usable condition. learning as I go. Enjoyment on a long timescale.
TY MR WIZARD!!!
Dam good trick !!!!!!!!
I think this should be called a
“sacrificial alignment collet”
If I wanted to use this technique to hold a rifle barrel would it work?
Assuming I used a sacrificial alignment shim/bushing/collet large enough to support the barrel and small enough to fit in the chuck.
That was my first thought was how to do this to perfect my barrel turning.
Another great job, Joe. For the first timer, your time improves greatly each one you make to the point that you will be under bid times regularly. Remember, a set-up that you can trust really lets you get the work done.
This is the stuff I love seeing. I am literally quitting my cnc production job at the new year to get back into manual work.
I dropped out of school when they transitioned from manual machining to CNC.. I wish I would have stayed the course, it would be nice to learn CNC but personally I enjoy the experience of manual machining. Its interesting to see your comment. CNC is kinda boring IMO.
If you need this procedure very often, I think a good 4 jaw would start to look pretty cheap.
Wow that is awesome I learn a lot from you
Awesome, thank you!
A better tip on using a file on a running lathe - Never apply a file against the advancing side of the workpiece (aka top), apply the file against the retreating side, (aka bottom). This way, if anything grabs the file, it will be shot out AWAY from you instead of driving the file into your hand or chest. Also, never change the tool holders while the lathe is running. If you drop the tool holder it could bounce right into the chuck and crash your ways, your chuck or your face. Power equipment has no conscience and no remorse over wrecking your body.
Everybody works the way they are comfortable doing, but I have to comment on your suggestions. Only if the tip of the file comes in contact with the jaws is there a potential for it to launch into your chest. Otherwise, it just bounces around and doesn't do anything. Chances are, if the file hits the jaws, it abruptly scares the shit out of you, and you naturally pull away. Working on the top of your work piece keeps the file in the rejection zone, to place anything under a spinning part is a really bad idea. Plus, it usually translates to only one hand on the file. As for shutting the machine off every tool change, thats a good way to burn up your machine or get fired. Back the carriage away to a safe distance away from a spinning chuck and use tool post knobs on your blocks for a better grip. I agree machinery has no conscience and only the operator is responsible for their own safety.
billsixx ,bill just use common sense ,as a machinist you should alwAys know what can happen,I've been a machinist for many years ,never been hurt never really screwed up,if you have to turn off the spindle just to change the tool ,then it sounds like your pretty careless,you must make alot of little stupid mistakes,professionals like me and this guy in this video ,rarely make mistakes we rarely do stupid shit like dropping a tool into the spindle,if your that careless you shouldn't be around this type of machinery
Joe Pieczynski ,bill six doesn't have any hands on experience,he's one of them guys that paid a fortune for schooling in this industry,but he's just speaking from what he learned in school,if hes that careless ,where he has to turn off the spindle ,he needs to find a new trade.
When I was learning machine work, some 50 years ago, I wish I had an instructor like Joe. Nice job!
Thank you.
Many thank. I am a newby with a mini lathe for RC aircraft model work and although I don't need super accurate parts I learned so much how to cope with any imperfections in my out of true chuck. You teach clearly and narrate thoroughly and with a good summery to recap. Cheers
Steve NZ
Cool trick, thanks and I do enjoy watching and learning from your videos
Thanks for watching!
At 2:48 you place on the screen, "Never turn on your machine on if the chuck is empty." I would like to ask why and secondly, even if the chuck is in the closed position (all jaws touching) this rule still applies?
the reasoning behind this rule is that in the unlocked state, the chuck and all it's internal mechanisms are more or less free floating. so if you turn on your machine, nothing stops the internal screws from rattling around, and since there's a centrifugal force on the screwing mechanism, the movement will generally be towards unscrewing the jaws. give this enough time and you turn your chuck into a shotgun.
adding onto that, at one place I worked at they had special "quick set" chucks that allowed you to jump the jaws between indexed positions in the unlocked state by just pulling on the jaws. spinning up one of those chucks without a part in it would turn shotgun even faster.
Oh. Makes sense. I wanted to ask the same question since I do it on my old Sebastian lathe all the time. Guess I never noticed it listening up.
@@burtvincent1278 if your chuck is all the way down for relatively small parts it's "fine" in the sense that you'd probably notice the yaws walking all the way off, but because you can shotgun yourself with chuck yaws (and someone probably did at one point, just like people shotgun themselfes with chuck keys every once in a while) people wrote the rule into existence.
You made a collet chuck!
You are my new favorite UA-cam shopteacher! Awesome videos for a beginner like me. Well explained and interesting. Thanks a lot for these
Thanks for watching. Ask a question if you hit a wall.
I also couldn’t understand the reason mr. Pie for what he was doing but, in reality it is creating a Chuck that’s eccentric in itself but centered to the machine. He compensated the 15 thou by making the collet and drilling it eccentric in it. Very clever!
If your chuck is wrong wouldn't it be easier and better to machine the jaws of the chuck? Then it perfect every time
Absolutely, but not everyone has a tool post grinder to do it correctly.
Can you hard turn the jaws?
Why didn’t you mark the piece and just 1 jaw after drilling the center hole before removing the piece because that was the concentricity step was in not? Marking it after flipping it made no sense to me.
Never mind on this comment. I was not thinking that the center boring had more to be done.
23:52 That's what she said
Thanks Joe, in 50 years in toolroom/machine shop, never saw anything like this, I will definitely use this idea. Your just full of great ideas, thanks!
Glad to help
this video is very on task, done at the speed the boss would expect. Good example of real world problem solving. Thanks joe
Thanks for watching and commenting. I can do it much faster when I don't have to narrate or film it. 5-10 minutes.
Good I tought I invented that threading away from the shoulder but I geuss they been doing it that way for a while.I've got a cheapo lathe so I've got to use some tricks like that too. you've been doing this for years I can tell. thanks for sharing cause in my opinion its a pull yourself up by your bootstraps economy but when was it not people can learn a lot from you that's valuable to your fellow Americans and the world sorry for the ramling on but ya thanks
This guy rocks
Thanks
25:30 If you unloosen the jaws you are tightening them.
unloose. verb. To free from ties or fasteners: disengage, loose, loosen, slip, unbind, unclasp, undo, unfasten, unloosen, untie.
Joe, your videos are great but PLEASE stop putting "YOU MUST WATCH THIS" in the title. We will watch without the prompt.
And also never use the term "unloosen" ;-)
Sorry Keith. I was the math and science parent. English was my wife's department. I will be more aware of that. Thanks for the comment.
Done. Thanks for watching.
Joe Pieczynski
No harm, I was just ribbing you. I find various words like that funny. My wife and I keep quite a list, that one was on there from years ago. Keep up the good work.
You actually had me thinking about that last night. The word is a total contradiction, but soooo many people use it. Great comment.
Hi Cap'n
Super trick. Kinda' magic. Never stop learning in Your class, even at our age.
Thanks a zillion for showing and sharing.
We just can't be grateful enough. Keep 'em rolling.
ATB and LB
aRM
Dude... Thank you, for showing the next generation how to do all of the "tricks". That, my friend, is how we and the English won WWII. I learned in the Navy, from '87 to '93. And, they taught me their "way". I got out, only to hear, that because the "Navy" taught me, I wasn't commercially viable. So much for a veteran's skills being marketable in the civilian world...
I ended up at a company called A&A machine, in LaMarque, Texas... And this was pretty typical of their machines.
I spent 8 years there, until they couldn't teach me any more, and then I moved on to Conhagen... And the process started again.
25 yrs later, I'm teaching engineers. But, I miss the shop days.
I've watched several of your videos, and you have pretty much covered everything that I learned from the "old hands" there.
The difference is, you've covered it in a matter of hours. It took me, several years, to pry all of these secrets out of all of those guys.
If you ever need another "old school" machinist, let me know. I'm in Austin now....
Thanks for the comment and welcome to Austin.
In a professional shop, time
Is everything! Making fixtures is sometimes necessary for production runs..Having a quality adjustable 3 jaw chuck saves time and money! However, if you know how to properly use a 4 jaw Chuck you can indicate anything very quickly including eccentrics without all the fooling around! Not to mention a 4 Jaw chuck has MUCH more holding power! That being said, using soft jaws works well and is much faster and repeatable. It all comes down to set up efficiency, repeatability and production! Which means time and money! A junk chuck ends up in the scrap pile! No time for fooling around in the professional world. In any case, thanks Joe.
The title of this video says it all. Companies and people with time and money may make different choices.
I use my “junk” chuck that I replaced because of runout in my cnc mill next to 4 vices and leave it set up for g59
I call this a split bush and use this technique all the time and I work full time as a turner. But I never go to the all the bother in this video. It can be done with just one cut to split the bush and then turn the diameter to suit, Cutting it in 3 places takes too much time.
Perfekt!! Danke
About 3/4 of the way through this I was thinking "Man, that's a lot of work!" But when I saw the results at the end, I changed my mind!! What a GREAT TRICK! I will remember THIS one! Thank you!
Once you've done this a bunch of times, its quick. Only the hole is important. Nothing else needs to be pretty.
Always a school day with you Joe,some things you do I know already & other things I learn from you, keep 'em coming,always good professional info. Graham.
basically a emergency collet?
So you practically made a sacrificial collet. Huh. I'll put that in my box of tricks.
Cheap and relatively quick.
So you basically made a poor mans collet chuck.
Yep.
Very nicely done. Could watch this quality of video all day long. Thank you.
Much appreciated. Thanks.
Slicker than snot. Most useful online half hour I've spent in quite a while. Thanks.
Apparently the machinists trade has as many dick head "that's a dumb idea" guys as my welding trade🤣
Yet, they will be the ones asking 'How'd you do that? " when you are done. This is a rock solid temporary fix to a very frustrating problem.
good trick....the other way is to beat the jaws with a hammer lol
It kills me to watch a chuck wrench left in the chuck. Am I alone?
I usually rip into someone when I see that. If my key is in the chuck, you can bet my hand is still on it.
Joe, I'm real new at this. You are a real Pro but it looks to me like you take a lot of chances with Safety. All I could picture was that flat file getting caught on one of the jaws of the chuck and flying back at you. All it looks like is one little slip. Another was the band saw. You have the work piece material close to that moving blade, unstable, as you're adjusting the table, bouncing around the material about to touch the blade and send that across the shop. Or through your head. I may be a dumb Carpenter turned Welder now, but you're scaring the shit out of me. I appreciate all your great videos and learn a lot. God Bless you, and please , as you're teaching us, please be careful. We need you. Jason T/New York
Thanks.
The last time I did metal turning was at school, over 60 years ago.
My son will be bringing me an ex school metalwork lathe from the UK soon, (I'm in France.)so I'll have to learn how to use it all over, I expect.
So, your channel will be a useful source of information.
You still got it kid!
I'd just get a four jaw, save the time get a .0005 indicator and be done with it....
4 jaw is a pain if your running multi parts back to back. Also some of us use various chucks for different jobs I.e: a 5c collet chuck, backing plate, etc.. and cannot limit ourselves to a single chuck due to the wide variety of parts we make. I have parts you could never make in a 4 jaw.
@@glennedward2201 i guarantee i can make any of your parts in a 4 jaw
SuperAWaC i guarantee you cant and it wouldn’t be prudent to make some of my parts in a 4 jaw. To guarantee something you haven’t a clue about what parts I run is pretentious at best. Glad your such a stellar machinist. Fact of the matter I could probably produce parts twice as fast as the average machinist and we do small run production so yes we use multiple jaw chucks however a 4 jaw adds a significant amount of overall time to dial in the part and that is the point I made. Nothing to do with whether a four jaw or 6 jaw cannot be used however I’d like to see a right angle chucked up in a 4 jaw, lol, good luck. There is no way you can make all of my parts back to back using a 4 jaw and starting with material that is already .0005 in tolerance. You have no extra material so you’d better indicate every time you chuck a part. With 3 jaws I don’t have to do that. Also we’re more apt to use a 5c collet before a 4 jaw and I will take that for repeatability any day over a 4 jaw as well it results in quick changeovers and speedy production. I’ve had machinists with a so-called 30years come in and chuck up 4 jaws to turn around and have to pull it for parts that won’t center due to geometry that doesn’t work with 4 jaws. Then I watch them spend an 8 hour shift making an $85 part that I can make 15 in the same time. Some of these UA-cam videos I see a 3-4 hour edited video and for parts that should take 10 minutes. It’s screwing around and wasting time. Much better ways to remain productive and that is to (Understand “Manual” production) and the use of “proper tooling” which is the key to a successful small business. Good luck with your approach.
@@glennedward2201 i can indeed chuck right angles into 4 jaw chucks. i'm not saying it's practical, but it is certainly doable. i personally use a 4 jaw and a 6 jaw in my shop, i've never needed anything else. although i have modified my 4 jaw to be able to do weird things.
What !! Did !! YOU !! Really DO !! ??? JOE !! COLLETTS !! ALL !! READY !! EXIST !!!
Read the title of this video very slowly.
@@joepie221 That person who Told you About !! The Rag ! OBVIOUSLY !! TAUGHT !! You !! SOMETHING !! ALL YOU DID !! WAS !! MAKE !! ANOTHER !! COLLETT !! UP !!
@@davidwillard7334 At least learn how to spell _collet._
@@UncleKennysPlace Yes Mister word ! Man !!
@@joepie221 JOE !! PIE !! MANN !!!
Soft jaws would be faster.
Joe, been watching your channel for 2+yrs, but only until our daughter made me up give up my old flip phone (@@) and get a smart phone, was not able to subscribe are comment. But look out, not only did I move up to the real world, she got us to start a UA-cam channel, wow. Know this is an older video, but I have watched every one you post, and will continue to learn from you! Thx, and Happy Holidays from Bear & Sammie up in Boyd Tx
Good video. I learnt something new. I am too a Machinist and this collet style idea makes sense because you are turning the bore true to make it in the holder for the piece to get the concentricity. Nice video.
Never file with your left arm over the spinning chuck. Always hold the file with your left hand. And it takes longer to make this home collet then to machine the part.
Wanna race and find out?
Joe Pieczynski well at least you will have your legs for said race.. If a chuck is out that far something is wrong . Loading up soft jaws and boring them while restrained will win the race! Industry Standards
@@TimothyGambino9085 I appreciate your comments, but this video isn't made for shops with soft jaws and 2 piece jaws. Its made for the garage, hobby shop machinist that doesn't have a fat checkbook or a shelf full of attachments for his machinery. It clearly demonstrates, even with a severely out of concentricity POS chuck, you can get a part to run true. This bushing is a 5 minute job at best and is much faster than setting up and boring soft jaws. Legs or not.
Joe Pieczynski sorry joe I apologize
you can make 10 parts or 100 parts faster with a collet
DO NOT EVER EVER EVER file a part with the chuck turning towards you, in the direction that if the chuck grabs it, it will throw it at you. Always turn the other way. I was doing this once and it caught the file and slung it at me. I was lucky it didn't hit me. Very unsafe.
Filing a part with the chuck turning away from you has a better tendency to have you follow the file away leading you into a spinning chuck. Equally as dangerous.
USE A FILE LEFT HANDED ON THE LATHE PLEASE
Outstanding Technique Joe Pi....having watched a few years ago, brings back good memories....best wishes.....Paul
Not all home shops have junk lathes that have a ton of run out. But making a collet in a pinch is a good idea for a toolbox. Or a machinist with no work. Great vid!!!
This is a quick fix and a good way to also hold a part with a sensitive finish or irregular profile. I have dozens of these laying around. Takes 5 minutes to make. Not sure about the "no work" comment. This works for many different situations.
Joe Pieczynski like u said if you need it and you don't have it, make it!! If you can't wait or can't afford a real collet set. But my comment was meant for those machinists who can just sit around and make collets all day not the ones who use them for making money due to them needing it.
Uh..........what's the point???? Anything you put in a 3 jaw will machine true because the lathe axis is true. Move the part to another machine, or just remove it, and reposition it..................and you're F'd. By the time you mess around with the fancy collet, you coulda put the part in a 4 jaw. LOL.
Click bait.
Actually not. Chuck jaws can be worn and therefore translate eccentricity to parts you need to have running true. If you don't work to thousandths of an inch, I guess close enough is good enough. Definitely not click bait but nice try.
We know we have an axis through the spindle that's true, regardless of any runout in any chuck. Your chuck could have .010 runout, but any part you put in that chuck will turn to the axis of the lathe............true. But where the problem comes, is when you take that part out of the chuck........you immediately lose center. The only true way to transfer parts from chuck to chuck is to use a 4 jaw.
I see what you did with the collet, and it's interesting, but it's not a solution to the problem. A 4 jaw is the real solution to the problem. You can't make a collet for every part you put in a 3 jaw.
It's an elegant one time solution, but it's weighty. Limited to one part.
I do work to thou's. And I trust my 4 jaw to do what I need it to do. Granted, there's cumulative error, but the best you can do when it comes to manual machining is to try your best to limit that error. It's a tough row to hoe.
I do like your stuff. I especially liked the way you busted the 29 1/2 degree myth when it comes to single pointing threads.@@joepie221
@@Farmersammimagine, if you will, a person not having access to a 4 jaw chuck. A shocking concept i know, but it happens.
If you noticed he has an adjustable 3 jaw, so for round parts it beats a 4 jaw by a mile timewise. Save your 4 jaw for odd parts or large offsets
Mate just fit a 4 jaw and be done with it
That's my idea but I have a hardinge and it's not being easy finding one. Actually going to make a chuck backing plate it looks like and fit a plain back 4 jaw.
A 4 jaw would work, but then I'd have to change the title of this video.
Invest in a ajustable chuck.
All you have to do is tell the boss you need one for that $15 part. Good luck with that.
@@joepie221 also not everybody is working in industry. im still trying to convince my wife. until then ill take all the gray beard tricks i can get.
I learned this trick from my first boss 40+ years ago. I’ve been doing milling primarily since then, both Bridgeport and CNC, so seeing this “refresher” course brought back a lot of memories. Thanks!
You bet.
Hi Joe
I tried it out and it has solved a lot of problems for me
its so simple and so effective
thanks bud