I've watched a lot of these vids, everyone pulls half the car apart to get to the belt. I'm relieved to see you can leave radiator etc in. Also, no one else has shown the trick of using alternate belt to tighten crank, brilliant and totally worked! Great vid, I can do this now after watching, thank you.
Just did it today, great video, the extra advice to make your life easier 1-place a big paper clip on the timing marks on both cam sprockets to hold them in place, 2-leave the left upper and lower pulleys uninstalled until the belt is around all the other pulleys then tighten the upper then the lower pulley and you are done without pulling or tugging on the belt
This mans an honest to god mechanic. I knew it the moment he went "this gasket isn't THAT important" and omitted it. We've all been there, we just hate to admit it. Good work, super helpful, love your companies parts!
I can't believe he chose to do this without removing the cooling fans! So easy to do, and makes so much more room to work with. Each to their own I guess.
I find the fact that they show you how to pop the hood very interesting. Timing job might be a little complex to someone who's never opened there hood before 😂.
Everyone has to start somewhere. Everything I’ve ever learned about fixing cars has been through car forums and UA-cam videos. Sometimes the smallest things need to be demonstrated just for the sake of learning.
My thanks goes out to you and your folk for taking the time to post these videos. I’d be lost without these tutorials and I can take pride in fixing my own car at home. ☺️
6:30 you do not need to ruin your sepentine belt to lock the crank to get the pulley off, there is a flywheel access in back of motor you can stick a screwdriver in to lock it too
what a great video. i am going to do this tomorrow. only advice would be to clip that gasket for the belt housing to take up the slack and refit. great video!!
Just did this job, my botto cover gasket had swelled a bit amd didnt sit right. To get it to work, I trimmed just enough out of the middle and it fit back how it should.
Thank you for reinstalling and installing the parts step by step this video definitely A plus and 👍 , coz the other video I watch was very confusing and some video are cut off , talking .... your video was clean and explained clearly.
Man i was goin to take the front end off like the fans, radiator hose, reservior, u name it i thought thr was not going to be enough room. He makes me feel like a pro now i think i can do this in an hour or 2. Piece of cake!
What do you do if the engine is already slightly out of time when you bring the crank shaft to top dead center? He just slightly turns it counter clockwise gently but what if both camshaft sprockets are off cause of a loose timing belt?
There are many different paint marks on the cam sprockets. The important mark is a small line in the metal on the edge of both cam pulleys, these lines are what need to be lined up with the timing marks on the heads.
Thanks for the great video - I never would have tackled this project without your help. Installing the toothed pulley after the belt is in place is a brilliant idea. Suggestion - it's much easier to get the timing cover out from behind those two oxygen sensor wires if you unhook them from that bracket holding them. Just squeeze the plastic doodads on the back of the bracket with needle nose pliers and they'll pop right out. I was replacing the water pump too, so drained the coolant and removed the upper radiator hose and both fans; that gave me plenty of room to get at the pulleys and such. I also removed the radiator, but in retrospect I'm not sure it was worth it - you only gain another inch and a quarter or so of depth behind the AC condenser, and a standard impact still doesn't fit. You have to deal with the lower hose and trans cooler lines, and it's just a lot of screwing around to gain an inch. Speaking of impact, the crank pulley bolt on mine was INSANE. Long story short, after fighting it by hand for well over an hour, I borrowed an insane nuclear-powered SnapOn impact and offset drive from a mechanic buddy and had it out in ten seconds. By hand, with or without the special crank pulley holder tool, I never would have gotten it. (I used a medium-duty "strap wrench".) I needed a gear puller to get the pulley off. Finally, installing the new tensioner, the bolt didn't feel right, almost but not quite like it was cross threading. It turns out some previous jackwagon had stripped out the threads, then filled it with JB Weld and put the bolt in and called it good. Heli-coil to the rescue.
+DaddyBeanDaddyBean Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
The rubberseal on the timingcovers were a must to put back, to prevent debris coming on the belts. Also I always put a little antiseize to the crankpulley mounting area on the crankshaft, to prevent it get stuck. Overall 7 out of 10 for this video.
Do the cams stay in place without a tool to hold them? I have changed belts on other cars that had special tools to keep cams from turning because of valve springs.
One trick you left out- I was having a 'heck' (not my wording at the time!) of a time getting the harmonic balancer back on. Then I used a mirror to see down the hole, to help square it and align the keyway with the key. Then it slipped on nicely.
One thing about the top cover seal... if your power steering pump leaks you can get the atf (PS fluid) under the cover and on the belt. Don't ask me how I know.
Thanks for making this. On the hydraulic tensioner, shouldn't the black o-ring on the bolt be removed before you install it? Isn't it there for shipping purposes only? Also it seems easier to remove the electric fans out? A couple of clips and bolts and you have extra inches to work in.
Very good video, thanks! Here's a tip: My alternator belt was glazed and it slipped when trying to tighten the harmonic balancer bolt as recommended in the video. I had some "belt grip" on hand which solved the problem.
Thank You for this video! My biggest issue was getting the crankshaft bolt loose! Special tools are expensive for a once every 95K mile project! Question: when do you recommend also replacing the water pump while into the engine this far? Maybe the second timing belt??
+Alex Rodjom Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
Fans, absolutely, 100% worth it. Radiator, meh, it's a fair bit of screwing around to gain about an inch more clearance front-to-back before you get to the AC condenser. If your car is a unicorn that doesn't have AC, then removing the rad makes more sense, more bang for the buck. To each his own of course.
This video is great, but what do you do with that extra orange part if you have a manual transmission? After watching this video I really feel like I could do this job myself, but I won’t dare try to replace a timing belt without knowing every step. Anyone know of another video where it’s demonstrated?
my local independent whom i've done a lot of business with wanted 1000$. give me a break, not happy about that and i may call him on that later. i bought this kit for 220 and the other 2 belts for 40. i'm in for 260 and my labor. it may take me 2 hours but i know a trained mechanic can do this in a hour max. so i'm thinking i'm saving 700$. i was a mechanic many years ago. i can do this.
Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com +Legolas
Does anyone know a Harmonic Balancer removal tool that fits this car? Mine is really stuck in there. Great video except seems a little unrealistic that the harmonic balancer would just pop off like that.
Great video but the “belt trick” did not work at all. My belt kept slipping. Do yourself a favor and just get the special tool for holding the harmonic balancer in place.
Nice job. There's a lot of controversy over weather or not to change the water pump and coolant while doing the timing belt service. If you have the extra funds, I'd say go ahead and do it all in one shot.
My problem is my timing lines and white marks are not in the same location as yours are. They have a white dot and red dot and the timing line machined in-between on the cams. Is this normal or does anyone know what the heck is going on??
Why not at least remove the fans. You're talking 4x 10mm bolts and it gives you so much more room. Also chucking away the timing cover seals seems like a bad idea. Timing belts aren't replaced often, these cars often get used off road and the timing belt is at the front of the engine. It'll likely get foreign objects in there, Potentially degrading the belt prematurely. Personally I'd recommend replacing the water pump. While doing the timing belt. It's just good practice. Otherwise good video Definitely one of the easier timing belts to change.
Same thing. He missed a few things like the loctite on the tensioner bolt, and if you have a manual there is a belt guide above the timing pulley on the crank that has to be adjusted with the curved red plastic piece in the kit.
Yep, kind of kills the cred of an otherwise nice video to not replace the timing seal and accept sand and debris getting into the timing area. The main drive pulley tool is only $28.
+trevot11 We don't have a how-to video for your vehicle right now, but the basic steps in this video should be enough to do this task. Buy this part for your vehicle on 1AAuto.com: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I'm a single broke mom about to change time belt on my own I had to borrow $ to buy time belt ...my subaru is a 2005 outback so I don't have to mark anything before I start taking parts off?
@@mszostkowski Nope. He said it 'looked good' and skipped it. There's some good parts to this video and some crazy short cuts. Just removing the rubber gasket for the timing belt covers? Pretty sure your client would prefer it replaced than chance anything getting in under there. Not replacing water pump at same time as timing belt? Unnecessary future risk.
He didnt because his company kit doesnt sell it, so omit instead of admit. I feel the way he did it, another repair in 20K waiting. Take it all off again, pully sieze or tensioner broke timing belt etc. Nice way to destory an engine if you do this without removing the fan and radiator.
Do yourself a favor and leave the geared idler in. Remove the passenger side lower idler. Use a 17MM wrench or breaker to hold tension on the right hand cam pulley, make sure all teeth lock, and the belt will slip right in between the water pump and geared idler. Replace the passenger idler...there's plenty of play with the long stretch returning to the passenger side cam pulley. Trying to ease the geared idler in like this guy does is a recipe for cross-thread and installing a heli-coil blind. This lady goes full boss mode on her timing belt, plus it's the same channel. ua-cam.com/video/-ERVniqZEHc/v-deo.html
Thanks for the tips. I tried a dry run yesterday and could tell I was about to end in disaster by cross threading the lower left roller. I stopped when I felt the bolt on an angle. I am still struggling with getting enough slack to route the belt though. Watching as many video's and reading as many shop manuals as I can to do it without damaging anything.
Yep, did the job myself because of how picky I am. I work on aircraft, so I get very particular about things being just right and CLEAN. I cleaned the covers inside and out before they went back in place. The engine block behind the timing components was cleaned before new parts went on. Any fasteners that were marginal due to rust (problem here in Canada) were replaced. I had a bolt shear off due to rust, so I carefully drilled it out and re-threaded the hole. Most shops wouldnt have bothered or charged me more for it. Part of cleaning is inspecting. No mechanic would bother to do any of this stuff when they need to get the job done and get the next car in to make money.
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
I've watched a lot of these vids, everyone pulls half the car apart to get to the belt. I'm relieved to see you can leave radiator etc in. Also, no one else has shown the trick of using alternate belt to tighten crank, brilliant and totally worked! Great vid, I can do this now after watching, thank you.
+Alan Fay Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Exactly what I needed. Timing belt replacement without water pump. Outstanding detailed video.
Wow, this guy need to do all tutorials for everything. What a boss
Just did it today, great video, the extra advice to make your life easier 1-place a big paper clip on the timing marks on both cam sprockets to hold them in place, 2-leave the left upper and lower pulleys uninstalled until the belt is around all the other pulleys then tighten the upper then the lower pulley and you are done without pulling or tugging on the belt
+JO MANGEEE Thanks for the feedback!
This company really sends parts very quick I’m impressed
This mans an honest to god mechanic. I knew it the moment he went "this gasket isn't THAT important" and omitted it. We've all been there, we just hate to admit it. Good work, super helpful, love your companies parts!
If you need instructions on how to open the hood you better not attempt to replace a timing belt.
Wat 😭
I can't believe he chose to do this without removing the cooling fans! So easy to do, and makes so much more room to work with. Each to their own I guess.
Thanks for checking us out. 1aauto.com +Steve DeCourier
It has been a practice to at least put cardboard against the radiator.
I know right dude i was like good luck lol.
I find the fact that they show you how to pop the hood very interesting. Timing job might be a little complex to someone who's never opened there hood before 😂.
+NathanSletten Thanks for watching. It doesn't hurt to show how to do it! 1aauto.com
Done a lot of timing belt changes but never knew about the extra service position on a hood, great tip!
I was thinking the same exact thing.
Everyone has to start somewhere. Everything I’ve ever learned about fixing cars has been through car forums and UA-cam videos. Sometimes the smallest things need to be demonstrated just for the sake of learning.
My thanks goes out to you and your folk for taking the time to post these videos. I’d be lost without these tutorials and I can take pride in fixing my own car at home. ☺️
Explained important pointers, not skipped over. Good demo.
6:30 you do not need to ruin your sepentine belt to lock the crank to get the pulley off, there is a flywheel access in back of motor you can stick a screwdriver in to lock it too
Without taking the intake off thats kind of a bitch to get to
what a great video. i am going to do this tomorrow. only advice would be to clip that gasket for the belt housing to take up the slack and refit. great video!!
+michael szostkowski Thank you for your feedback!
Just did this job, my botto cover gasket had swelled a bit amd didnt sit right. To get it to work, I trimmed just enough out of the middle and it fit back how it should.
Just a tiny addition to the bleeding of the tensioner is that you need to do the compression and expansion rate within no less then a minute.
Thank you for reinstalling and installing the parts step by step this video definitely A plus and 👍 , coz the other video I watch was very confusing and some video are cut off , talking .... your video was clean and explained clearly.
FYI:
The pistons are at mid stroke not TDC on the Subaru motors when crank marks lineup.
Man i was goin to take the front end off like the fans, radiator hose, reservior, u name it i thought thr was not going to be enough room. He makes me feel like a pro now i think i can do this in an hour or 2. Piece of cake!
What do you do if the engine is already slightly out of time when you bring the crank shaft to top dead center? He just slightly turns it counter clockwise gently but what if both camshaft sprockets are off cause of a loose timing belt?
There are many different paint marks on the cam sprockets. The important mark is a small line in the metal on the edge of both cam pulleys, these lines are what need to be lined up with the timing marks on the heads.
Thanks for the great video - I never would have tackled this project without your help. Installing the toothed pulley after the belt is in place is a brilliant idea. Suggestion - it's much easier to get the timing cover out from behind those two oxygen sensor wires if you unhook them from that bracket holding them. Just squeeze the plastic doodads on the back of the bracket with needle nose pliers and they'll pop right out.
I was replacing the water pump too, so drained the coolant and removed the upper radiator hose and both fans; that gave me plenty of room to get at the pulleys and such. I also removed the radiator, but in retrospect I'm not sure it was worth it - you only gain another inch and a quarter or so of depth behind the AC condenser, and a standard impact still doesn't fit. You have to deal with the lower hose and trans cooler lines, and it's just a lot of screwing around to gain an inch.
Speaking of impact, the crank pulley bolt on mine was INSANE. Long story short, after fighting it by hand for well over an hour, I borrowed an insane nuclear-powered SnapOn impact and offset drive from a mechanic buddy and had it out in ten seconds. By hand, with or without the special crank pulley holder tool, I never would have gotten it. (I used a medium-duty "strap wrench".) I needed a gear puller to get the pulley off.
Finally, installing the new tensioner, the bolt didn't feel right, almost but not quite like it was cross threading. It turns out some previous jackwagon had stripped out the threads, then filled it with JB Weld and put the bolt in and called it good. Heli-coil to the rescue.
+DaddyBeanDaddyBean Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
The rubberseal on the timingcovers were a must to put back, to prevent debris coming on the belts. Also I always put a little antiseize to the crankpulley mounting area on the crankshaft, to prevent it get stuck. Overall 7 out of 10 for this video.
Do the cams stay in place without a tool to hold them? I have changed belts on other cars that had special tools to keep cams from turning because of valve springs.
One trick you left out- I was having a 'heck' (not my wording at the time!) of a time getting the harmonic balancer back on. Then I used a mirror to see down the hole, to help square it and align the keyway with the key. Then it slipped on nicely.
One thing about the top cover seal... if your power steering pump leaks you can get the atf (PS fluid) under the cover and on the belt. Don't ask me how I know.
helps maintain the pullies 😭
Thanks for making this. On the hydraulic tensioner, shouldn't the black o-ring on the bolt be removed before you install it? Isn't it there for shipping purposes only? Also it seems easier to remove the electric fans out? A couple of clips and bolts and you have extra inches to work in.
Wooow, this guys are heroes!
+Moises Estrada Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Do you have to torque the idler puller on the tensioner or is that set from the manufacturer and you just do the mounting bracket bolt?
Wish me luck 🙏 and thank you for the opportunity to have all of youz as a mentor 💙 ❤️ ❤️
Very good video, thanks! Here's a tip: My alternator belt was glazed and it slipped when trying to tighten the harmonic balancer bolt as recommended in the video. I had some "belt grip" on hand which solved the problem.
+Bob Tregilus Thanks for checking us out. Shop for high quality auto parts on 1AAuto.com:
1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Thank You for this video!
My biggest issue was getting the crankshaft bolt loose! Special tools are expensive for a once every 95K mile project! Question: when do you recommend also replacing the water pump while into the engine this far? Maybe the second timing belt??
+@dehnpeterson5650 Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Thank you for an excellent video explanation. This will make my timing belt job much easier!!!
+Alex Rodjom Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com
Thanks ! awesome video. Although removing the rad and fans will make it a lot easier and it's really not difficult to do.
Fans, absolutely, 100% worth it. Radiator, meh, it's a fair bit of screwing around to gain about an inch more clearance front-to-back before you get to the AC condenser. If your car is a unicorn that doesn't have AC, then removing the rad makes more sense, more bang for the buck. To each his own of course.
Great instructions. The music is an unnecessary distraction. Why do people think they have to have music? Thanks for explaning every step.
Great video!👍 i watched it your video to refreshed my mind on the process. Thanks
So as far as the tool goes it’s $50 for the tool or it’s the price of the belt I had to buy both as the trick didnt work
That is one accessible timing belt
This video is great, but what do you do with that extra orange part if you have a manual transmission? After watching this video I really feel like I could do this job myself, but I won’t dare try to replace a timing belt without knowing every step.
Anyone know of another video where it’s demonstrated?
very good and very eazy .You're a professional man
Thanks for checking us out. 1aauto.com +M_ All.masri
In "real time" how long does this take? Just wondering what my local labor charge for this might be.
labor time is around 4 hours
my local independent whom i've done a lot of business with wanted 1000$. give me a break, not happy about that and i may call him on that later. i bought this kit for 220 and the other 2 belts for 40. i'm in for 260 and my labor. it may take me 2 hours but i know a trained mechanic can do this in a hour max. so i'm thinking i'm saving 700$. i was a mechanic many years ago. i can do this.
Is it possible to overtighten the pulley bolts by hand and strip them?
Very thorough video.😊
+G. Greenberg Thank you for your feedback!
Thank you for your great videos.
Wouldn't it have been a lot easier to just remove that top radiator hose?
My new belt doesn’t have those marks? Does it matter how I put it on as long as the letters are facing me?
good work, helped immensely.
Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com +Legolas
Looks pretty straight forward...for a professional mechanic. Checking my oil and keeping an eye on tire pressure is my limit.
If it looks straight forward, anyone with basic comprehension skills can do it if you have the tools.
Sorry bit confused around 4:35 if someone can clear it up, do I loosen the bolt on the plastic/soft metal part?
Do you all have a video on replacing the Timing Belt on the 2010 Outback? This video was great but it's 1 year off for my vehicle.
ej2.2 ej 2.5s SOHC are all the same
If it has a tight seal because it's hydraulic how does air get in or out?
Hi I’m alpha could you show me how to replace the spark plugs in the Subaru tribeca 2006
Hi, the timming belt should be replace at 100,000 miles or 100,000 km ?
100k miles in US equals 170k km in rest of world . Same same
Does anyone know a Harmonic Balancer removal tool that fits this car? Mine is really stuck in there. Great video except seems a little unrealistic that the harmonic balancer would just pop off like that.
+g.r.h.1997 Thanks for checking us out. Shop for high quality auto parts on 1AAuto.com:
1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Great video but the “belt trick” did not work at all. My belt kept slipping. Do yourself a favor and just get the special tool for holding the harmonic balancer in place.
+Ben S Thanks for the tip!
Is this a similar procedure for the 2012 outback 2.5?
+Brandon Campos We don't have a how-to video for your vehicle right now, but the basic steps in this video should be enough to do this task.
Awesome thanks!
Thankyou awsome job. Yes SIRRRRRRRR
Nice job. There's a lot of controversy over weather or not to change the water pump and coolant while doing the timing belt service. If you have the extra funds, I'd say go ahead and do it all in one shot.
+Danny Rumbles Thanks for checking us out. Shop here for high quality auto parts: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Uo
Do you not need to replace the water pump?
Are this aisin japan timing belts?
My problem is my timing lines and white marks are not in the same location as yours are. They have a white dot and red dot and the timing line machined in-between on the cams. Is this normal or does anyone know what the heck is going on??
Why not at least remove the fans. You're talking 4x 10mm bolts and it gives you so much more room. Also chucking away the timing cover seals seems like a bad idea. Timing belts aren't replaced often, these cars often get used off road and the timing belt is at the front of the engine. It'll likely get foreign objects in there, Potentially degrading the belt prematurely.
Personally I'd recommend replacing the water pump. While doing the timing belt. It's just good practice.
Otherwise good video
Definitely one of the easier timing belts to change.
Will this be the same for a 2005 Subaru Outback?
Same thing.
He missed a few things like the loctite on the tensioner bolt, and if you have a manual there is a belt guide above the timing pulley on the crank that has to be adjusted with the curved red plastic piece in the kit.
Weird....my 2004 Forrester ac belt tensioner bolt was reverse threaded. Doesnt show that in this video
18:29
No LocTite?
Good video with careful explanations. The background music is abhorrent.
Yep, kind of kills the cred of an otherwise nice video to not replace the timing seal and accept sand and debris getting into the timing area. The main drive pulley tool is only $28.
Would it be the same on a 2010 WRX?
+trevot11 We don't have a how-to video for your vehicle right now, but the basic steps in this video should be enough to do this task. Buy this part for your vehicle on 1AAuto.com: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
What about the engine on sound
Very nice.
+Brian Root Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
is this the same on a 2002 outback with a flat 4????????????????????????/
He never addressed dont lose the key way on the crank pulley. Important step to leave out.
+Chris Webb Thanks for the tip! We'll pass this info along to our production team.
I'm a single broke mom about to change time belt on my own I had to borrow $ to buy time belt ...my subaru is a 2005 outback so I don't have to mark anything before I start taking parts off?
..nevermind as I was typing I saw he did....just lost my confidence don't think I can do this
I wonder if that Subaru is still running today 2022 .
Great video but, if you have to be shown how to open the hood do you have any business doing this kind of job?
+Daniel Kuchenberg Thanks for the feedback!
You didn't use the loctite
Lol
What about the water pump? 1A auto should've shown to put new gaskets on. I wouldn't want this tech who skips parts to work on my car.
Tanks
+Nova Espit Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
👍👍👍👍👍❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️
How about water pump? You left old water pump on the car ??? Wierd?? What if it fails you gonna be doing it all over again !!?
i'm sure he installed the pump. just wasn't in video. no biggie
There’s no water pump in the kit! Agree with Elvir, you should always replace the pump at the same time!
@@mszostkowski Nope. He said it 'looked good' and skipped it. There's some good parts to this video and some crazy short cuts. Just removing the rubber gasket for the timing belt covers? Pretty sure your client would prefer it replaced than chance anything getting in under there. Not replacing water pump at same time as timing belt? Unnecessary future risk.
Same thinking!
He didnt because his company kit doesnt sell it, so omit instead of admit.
I feel the way he did it, another repair in 20K waiting. Take it all off again, pully sieze or tensioner broke timing belt etc.
Nice way to destory an engine if you do this without removing the fan and radiator.
Je ce le referance dé chaîne disterbetion subaru frostare 2.5 l 2009 et mercie
That poor things had a nasty freon leak.
Still has it's Head Gaskets. Most all gone just as they reach 100,000.
If you don’t know how to open the hood then stay far away from the car.
Do yourself a favor and leave the geared idler in. Remove the passenger side lower idler. Use a 17MM wrench or breaker to hold tension on the right hand cam pulley, make sure all teeth lock, and the belt will slip right in between the water pump and geared idler. Replace the passenger idler...there's plenty of play with the long stretch returning to the passenger side cam pulley. Trying to ease the geared idler in like this guy does is a recipe for cross-thread and installing a heli-coil blind.
This lady goes full boss mode on her timing belt, plus it's the same channel.
ua-cam.com/video/-ERVniqZEHc/v-deo.html
Thanks for the tips. I tried a dry run yesterday and could tell I was about to end in disaster by cross threading the lower left roller. I stopped when I felt the bolt on an angle. I am still struggling with getting enough slack to route the belt though. Watching as many video's and reading as many shop manuals as I can to do it without damaging anything.
Don’t do it at home 😅
I have done anything any shop does, at home for over 50 years.
Even when I owned a shop, I worked at home.
Boring
Didn’t replace water pump didn’t rotate engine to check timing didn’t remove radiator for easer Access . This is why i do my stuff myself
Yep, did the job myself because of how picky I am. I work on aircraft, so I get very particular about things being just right and CLEAN.
I cleaned the covers inside and out before they went back in place.
The engine block behind the timing components was cleaned before new parts went on.
Any fasteners that were marginal due to rust (problem here in Canada) were replaced.
I had a bolt shear off due to rust, so I carefully drilled it out and re-threaded the hole. Most shops wouldnt have bothered or charged me more for it.
Part of cleaning is inspecting.
No mechanic would bother to do any of this stuff when they need to get the job done and get the next car in to make money.