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That's interesting. I'm yet to dive into the world of Phrozen resins. I'll put it on the list...😀

I've been very impressed with this resin so far. The colours are so vibrant and mix beautifully.

apparently the setting you set will be the first then go up by .25

The range is based on the setting for ‘normal exposure’. If you set normal exposure to 1 second, the first model exposure will be 1 second and the following models will be exposed at + 0.25 seconds. So, a 1 second normal exposure sets a range of 1 to 2.75 seconds.

There's no indication on the Nova3D website that the resin is biodegradable. The resin still needs to be separated from the water. A common method is to evaporate the water away, or leave the container used in the sun. The resin comes out of solution and can be discarded as a solid.

@@ColinKlupiec ok that makes sense, thanks for the info!

You make a good point. I'll use one of those prints to do a longer term yellowing test.

Thanks. I genuinely appreciate your comment. It adds to the general knowledge base of the discussion and I welcome robust contributions to techniques and processes. I guess I'm indirectly taking a position on the increasingly sloppy approach to teaching young students about measuring, marking, and cutting. Too often I see students instructed to cut 5mm or so away from their mark and then 'disc sand' to the line. Inevitably the result is wonky and leads to an over reliance on a machine I believe has become the 'swiss army sander'. I suspect most people won't have the kit you describe so well. But some might have a plane lying around. Interesting to note, though, that your last sentence mentions milling as 'by far the easiest method', which, ...is a cutting process. Maybe I should try routing the prints. 🤔 Although, managing speed will be an issue. Thanks again for your comment.

@@ColinKlupiec you should *definitely* try routing it, I think you'll be surprised how effective it is. Only caveat I would stress is to find/utilize really sharp cutters, not the typical rather blunt edge/angle bits that I typically see used for woodwork. I totally agree with you about the disc sanders. Grinding is the largest chunk of what I do, but I'll be the first to tell anyone, it's a quick way to screw something up without heavily practiced and proper technique, same as with filing. Disc sanders are especially problematic because seemingly very few people understand the obvious fact that you've got an exponential and continual change in cutting speed, across the entire surface of the disc, to effectively zero at the very center. You remove significantly more material on one side to the next, even if all other things like pressure and angle are equal, and flipping the part over just grinds a pyramid. Even in my industry the disc sander (grinder) is a woe-fully misunderstood tool, that is often utilized incorrectly to the detriment of their work... Regardless, router, or a shaper would make short work of squaring resin printed corners, just find or grind some HSS or high angle/sharp enough to cut you easily carbide tool bits. Hit me up if you need any help!

@@javandempsey3729 Thanks. That's more helpful than you realise. Resin printing square edges seems to be quite a challenge. I've got a few resins on the shelf still to test. Some claim to have better performance with straight edges etc. I'm wondering if post processing, like routing (or similar) will simply need to be designed into the print. I"m also going to try a much heavier support profile specifically for thick, square prints. I wonder if it has something to do with thin supports bending ever so slightly during the print. Either way, I've learned a lot in recent times. And again, I appreciate your detailed comments and offer for help. 👍

I haven't tried Elegoo ABS3.0, so I can't really comment. However, so far I have found that Ameralabs TGM-7, or Antinsky High Tough resin seem to be the best all-rounders for making stuff, as opposed to miniatures. Downsides are that Ameralabs is expensive, and Antinsky only comes in white. Although Antinsky have recognised this issue. Anycubic Gen 1 Tough was better then Tough 2.0 in my testing. Ultra is good if you need something tough and super flexible. I try to avoid mixing as I've found that sometimes the results can be good at first, but then things can change as the printed part ages. I guess it all depends on how much 'toughness' the print needs to handle.

Thanks. It was fun to test this one.

Hey, thanks, I really appreciate that. This resin was quite challenging to work with, and really is focused on a specific use case. Now I just need to get into injection moulding...😀

​​@@ColinKlupieci got a Saturn 4 Ultra recently and mostly use Anycubic Rigid 100. Crazy stuff. Quite brittle but really strong and is advertised to be heat resistant. Only drawback is the color. Maybe it is also suited for moulding

Being resistant up to 100 degrees might not be enough for injection moulding. Suddenly there are so many more resin choices, which is great. Just hard to keep up. The Anycubic Texture Resin is also one I'm curious about. It's got better colours too. I was recently tossing up between the Saturn 4 Ultra and the new Anycubic Mono M7. Went for the M7... but I think they both offer some good new features.

@@ColinKlupiec it's great to see all the new resin formulations coming out, especially in the area of tougher resins, considering how focused on miniatures and aesthetic prints this arena has been for so long. I appreciate your focus on reviewing these resins, as you've turned me on to some I never had even heard of, and kept me from wasting money on some that wouldn't have made me happy. Until recently I'd relied on mixing various resins to acheive good-ish results (I'm entirely interested in this space for hard use, functional prints, and avoiding the layer adhesion problems with FDM), but it's been hit or miss, and quite costly in some cases, as the more exotic resins have carried a hefty price tag in the past! Anyway, just wanted to pile on and say thank you! Would be curious to hear why you chose the M7 also.. after watching Fauxhammer's comparison, the Saturn 4 Ultra seemed like a no-brianer to me, although the new M7 Max, looks pretty epic!

Thanks for your comment. I really appreciate it. Here's another resin test I just posted. ua-cam.com/video/MWskGYdc984/v-deo.html Suddenly I find myself testing a lot of resins. I remember it was so difficult getting started, wondering which resin would be right for the job. But these tests really help. As to the printers...there's a lot to like about the Saturn 4 Ultra. But the deal breaker for me was the build plate. I reckon cleaning that would irritate me. There's something elegantly simple about the conventional build plate that appeals to me. And, the intelligent release feature seems to work really well. I'd say that's Anycubic's answer to the S4U tilt action.

👍

Yes, I think you're right. That would need to be taken into consideration for functional parts that relied on maintaining dimensional accuracy.

i highly recommend mixing it with other regular resins to decrease the ductility.

Thanks. 👍

I’ve heard that too. The black is quite convincing though. Perhaps Anycubic should send me some so that I can test it 😂.

Thanks, I appreciate your feedback. I'll keep working on it. 👍

I appreciate your comment. Everyone's use cases and experiences will be different. I switched to IPA mostly because I ventured into tough resins, which at the time, all required IPA. However, times change, and new products come to market. I'm currently testing some water washable tough resin which I've just become aware of, and will make a video about that soon.

It’s got a kind of retro feel to it. Different to the usual ‘3D print grey’.

It worked out better than I thought in an application I wasn’t expecting to be good. Really surprising.

😂 The smell isn’t too bad, actually.

100% was thinking the same thing

@@Goigigandfriends 😀

@@ColinKlupiec stuck around and watch the whole thing because it was a good video too!

@@Goigigandfriends Hey, thanks so much. Really appreciate it.

Thanks. It worked well.

That would be interesting. Must try and test that.

Most metallic pigments are plastic, and there currently is no additives to resin to make them usefully electrically conductive.

Saturn 4 Ultra

It's a great printer too.

Thanks Chris. Actually, the globe creates very little heat, and the design of the lampshade allows for heaps of air flow. But, I am testing a high temp resin with the same blue mixed in. Stay tuned. Anycubic currently has a great deal on their new small form factor printers which are a great entry point. The one worth looking at is the Mono 4 Ultra. It's got some great new tech, and the current Black Friday pricing is very good. Check out this non-affiliate link. store.anycubic.com/collections/resin-3d-printer/products/photon-mono-4-ultra

LED bulbs hardly create any heat so I'm sure it would work quite well with one.

@@samuelphilips6091 Indeed. Especially when the lamps are more for mood and effect.

You’re welcome. 😀

Thank goodness for that!

I had noticed that. Those curing times sound crazy long. It should make for an interesting test though. Perhaps my next test should be to find an indestructible resin 🤣.

Thanks for your question. Sorry about not having a link. But if you send me an email to info@colinklupiec.com I'll happily send you the files directly.

Thanks for your question. I couldn’t say because I’ve only used the D9 Pro. That said, the D9 Pro is a nice device to use.

Yes, I agree that the Anycubic gen 1 tough resin was better as an all round tough resin. Ultra is super flexible.

@@ColinKlupiec Ultra feels like ABS-like to me mixed with elastic resin. It almost smells the same. Do you think they're just rebranding under a different name?

No, the battery is not replaceable.

It’s a shame that Anycubic isn’t selling the Gen 1 resin anymore. I find Gen 2 to be a bit too brittle.

Hey, thanks for the kind feedback. Have a great day.

Cool. Glad it’s useful.

👍

Though a simple design, it’s funny how we all need a small set of steps handy. From time to time we can all be a little bit taller. 😀

Great. 👍

Each screen has an indicative lifespan measured in hours. How quickly you reach the hours depends on exposure length required by different resins. So it’s hard to gauge how long your screen will actually last. Most likely a long time. Faster print speeds usually come from printing at 0.1mm layer height with fast resins, but slightly lesser quality. You can specify a faster print for older printers in the slicer, but the printer will adjust the speed according to what its internal motor can achieve. So some experimentation is needed.

Yes, I think it would. There are also many good alternatives these days. Ameralabs TGM-7 and XVN-50, Antinsky High Tough resin, Siraya Tech Build are all worth checking out. Many new resins are becoming tougher and more durable.

Thanks for your question. The Festool bypass fitting actually came with the Rotex sander, not the extractor. I've since designed and made a 3D printed adapter with bypass holes to relieve the pressure on the extractor. It's made with flexible tough resin, which makes it look like a real part, and not 3D printed. I'll be making a video about that soon. Stay tuned, and thanks for watching.

I don't know. Haven't tested that. But I'd say it might be likely. In my experience, most resins leave a white powdery mark when scratched.

I'm gonna try it out! It is one problem that I still haven't been able to tackle. For now I coat them with PU. Could also be interesting for you in order to give you the extra mm en tickness for an extra tight fit.

Thanks, I appreciate the feedback. I'm testing some Siraya Tech high temperature resin at the moment, and that's super brittle. I've had a lot of success with Anycubic Tough resins. Two others I recently tested with excellent results are Antinsky High Tough resin, and Ameralabs TGM-7.

@@ColinKlupiec I saw you have more videos indeed. I'm gonna watch them soon. The high temp is very brittle indeed and hard to print. It takes a couple of trial and errors to get it right.

Cool. Glad that was helpful.

Yes, you can. Some water washable resins specify that best results are achieved when washing under running water, and not a wash station. But you can always give it a try. Check the instructions on the resin.

@@ColinKlupiec thank you, I have been FDM printing for years and I'm really excited about this :)

@@UrbanTreats Cool. It's a bit of journey, but when it comes to 3D printing, there's nothing like nailing a good resin print. It's next level, I reckon.

Thanks for the feedback. I’m glad the video was helpful. 😀 Finding the right resin can be difficult.

You’re welcome. I’ve had lots of interesting comments both for and against IPA from this video. My experience so far still has IPA giving better overall results. Especially for functional, or tough type resins.

@@ColinKlupiecWell I just gave it a go. The prints seem cleaner, less slimy than using water, and of course, dry quicker!

@@PeeJay7290Nice.

Glad it helped. 👍

Thanks. It's been a long journey. 👍

Thanks for your kind feedback. There's been a lot of testing, and smashing, reprinting, and more smashing. But that's product development...

Thanks for your kind feedback. I agree, the expense is an issue. And I also still use Anycubic Tough for most of my projects due to availability and price. It's just that I'll be using Ameralabs a lot for this particular project.

Thanks for your comment! We completely understand that cost is a significant factor in decision-making. At AmeraLabs, we also don’t use TGM-7 for every print; we reserve it for miniatures that see a lot of action during gaming sessions. One of the key benefits is the durability, allowing you to enjoy painted miniatures without worrying about them breaking. In fact, we took a large painted miniature on a 3-hour flight in our checked luggage to Spiel Expo, and it arrived completely intact! We appreciate your perspective and hope you consider giving our resin a shot for your miniatures in the future!

Hi, thanks for your feedback and your question. The part in this video is post-cured for 5min. There was some trial and error in deciding on that time, but it seems to provide a good balance of flexibility and rigidity. I think each item you make will have an ideal post-cure time. But I use 5-6min for all my designs and it seems to work.

@@ColinKlupiec Thanks for your answer. I would have thought 5 minutes were too much time for curing. Thought it would cause a loss of flexibility. Ill try 5 min aprox then. :)

So far it’s the only resin I’ve had issues with. Siraya Tech reckon they’ve got an improved version called Blu Lava Black. I’ll be testing that soon. BTW, the D2 is still my favourite printer. I’d rather pay more and have a DLP over LCD any day.

@ColinKlupiec Same here, even though I got the new fancy Saturn 4 ultra, I still turn the my little blue D2 when I need a prefect print.