Відео

2.0 is harder. Good impact resistance and maintains its shape better under load. Ultra is more flexible. Better where higher bending tolerance is needed. Ultra is also much thicker (more viscous) and prints better at warmer temps around 30 degrees. But both are very good.

Thanks for adding your experience. I’m testing Antinsky High Tough Resin and AmeraLabs TGM-7 at the moment. Videos out soon.

Glad you found it helpful. Have a great day.

That's helpful to know. Thanks for adding to the conversation.

@@ColinKlupiec Thats why I wonder why everyone praises it that much. It had terrible results for me.

You're welcome. Glad you found it helpful.

Sure. I can also email it to you. If you email me on info@colinklupiec.com I’ll reply with the file attached.

Thanks.

Thanks for your question. You’ll definitely get the accuracy you’re after, even with those small wall thicknesses. Toughness/rigidity depends a bit on the use case and finding the right resin. Anycubic tough Ultra is more flexible than Anycubic tough 2.0. You could also try Sirayatech Build, or Antinsky High Tough Resin.

Great. I’m glad you found it helpful. 😀

Thanks for your comment. I might have something for you. Can you tell me the dimensions of the spigot on the Dewalt that the hose connects to. OD, length, and whether it tapers. And, if you could send a pic to info@colinklupiec.com, that would help. I’m in Australia, but I’ve previously sent parts to Canada for people in similar situations. For example, I designed this Festool to ShopVac fitting for someone in Canada.

@ColinKlupiec Thanks so much responding. I will get this info to you later today. Appreciate your help

Great to hear the S4U is working for you. I love the tilting vat concept, but I’m a little put off by the build plate…cleaning, handling etc…am I being too picky?

Great! Glad it was helpful. 😀

It's certainly feature packed. By the way, I ended up purchasing the Makita 18V brad nailer that you reviewed. What a nicely made piece of kit.

@@ColinKlupiec oh excellent, it has never jammed on me, perfect for small workshop jobs. I see some Mileseey in my future at some stage too.

Thanks for your question. Not for eBay. But, I do have a couple left over. If you're interested I can make one available. Send me an email to info@colinklupiec.com and we can sort out the details.

It's definitely a practical feature. I've used the larger extractors and the lack of a flat top can be really irritating.

Thanks for the info. That’s helpful. 👍

@@ColinKlupiec I print in a sunny room with my mars 2. Ive added a printed handle to top of the lid so its easy to lift one handed and have put a cardboard box with the bottom and a side cut away, as well as a slot at the top for the added handle to protrude through. I keep the open side facing away from the window and have sometimes had resin sitting in the vat for months without issue, just need to mix the separated resin in the vat up using a silicone spatula before printing again. The stock covers resin printers come with are probably good against limited ambient light but i figured that some no cost light proofing just made sense. Thanks for putting up your vids about hardy and mixed resins, im just about to print some stuff that needs to survive, RC parts, so its been very informative :)

@@zid_just_zid Great. I'm glad it's been helpful. I'm testing another one at the moment. Video out soon on #antinsky hard tough resin. 😀

Great. I'm glad the video was helpful. 😀

Thanks for your question. The answer is...I think so. I've had success blending the original Tough resin. ua-cam.com/video/EfQXWcAqLCk/v-deo.html

My pleasure. Hope it works for you.

You’re welcome. Glad you found it useful.

Good question. Hard to recommend one for everything. I'd say that Tough 2.0 is OK in compression with good hardness, but not as good as 1.0 for impacts. Then, Ultra is way better for high impact, but more flexible as a result, and possibly too flexible for some applications. I think Anycubic should have kept Tough 1.0 in the range. BTW, Ultra is excellent for returning to its original shape after serious deformation. That's worth a video all on its own.

@@ColinKlupiec I am looking for something close to real ABS in everything. Impossible for now, I know haha

Thanks Chris.

Great. It’s certainly answered a lot of temperature questions for my application.

I’ll keep that in mind.

Good tip.

Thanks for your question. Contact me on info@colinklupiec.com for more information and to sort out some details.

Hi, thanks for your question. I don't see why it wouldn't work on your Mars Pro. It would be worth a try. The settings I used are on the Anycubic page for the resin. It lists the settings for all their printers. You just need to find one that is similar to your Mars Pro...I reckon the Photon Mono might be a reasonable match. And, make sure the resin is up around 25-30 degrees when you print. It's quite viscous. store.anycubic.com/products/tough-resin-ultra?ref=CK BTW, this is an affiliate link, but you can also go to anycubic.com and search for the resin page.

@ColinKlupiec awsome I will have a look at that I have designed some battle tech terrain the elegoo resin is not strong enough for them and I don't own a fdm printer haha

@ColinKlupiec also thank you for the speedy reply I didn't expect to hear back for a while

@@chuckysmith5255 Happy to help. I appreciate you watching the video and asking the question. It helps us all learn a little bit more about resin printing.

@ColinKlupiec definitely I run my shop on etsy and mostly print terrain peices for hero quest. But I've been messaged sevral times about this scenery I've designed but until I can get these clips strong enough I can't release it haha

Hey, thanks for your comment. I’m glad that my first video on tough resin was helpful, and that 2.0 is working for you. Once I discovered ‘tough’ resins I never went back to non-tough resins. Too much work for things to break so easily. Thanks for the tip on clear resin. I’m going to try that. BTW, it looks like Anycubic is running down stock of the original. It’s not available to many of the shipping destinations anymore.

Thanks for your question. You could try Sirayatech Build. Print detail is good and not as flexible as the Ultra. Another one I’ve got experience with is Anycubic Crafstman DLP resin. Great detail and not as brittle as standard resin. For build plate adhesion you could try re-levelling your build plate. It might look right to the naked eye, and not give problems with other resins. But I’ve had this problem once before too. Suddenly prints just started coming away from the build plate on one side. I was surprised at how a quick re-level fixed the adhesion problem straight away.

Thank you for your feedback. I appreciate it. I'm glad you found the video helpful.

Do you mean coming loose from the build plate? If so, then there is likely a base layer exposure issue. Or, I have also found that re-levelling your build plate can help when prints come loose. Not sure about action figure parts. That's not what I print. But if you send me an STL file, I'll test it.

​@@ColinKlupiecI think he means that for articulated prints parts have to unstick from each other to move freely.

@@Trancelebration Yes, I think you might be right. 😀

Thanks for your question. So far, the resin seems to be as precise as the original Tough resin, which I found to be precise enough for the parts I make. It’s more flexible, so you may need to factor that in. I wonder if they should have called it Tough Resin Flex.

Thank you for the fast answer! Wpuld you say its less precise than the standard or plant based resin? I could imagine that longer polymere chains come with lower resolution.

@@HR-yd5ib My pleasure. It's a good question. I'm using it to make parts that have to fit with what I would describe as 'accurate or acceptable tolerance'. Not very scientific, I know, but I've found it to be acceptable. The tough resin ultra works for the part you see in the video which is made for a 0.1mm tolerance. But...it's worth printing a reference model to test it. ...think I might try that. Stay tuned.

@@ColinKlupiec would be great to hear your results! THNAKS a lot!!

I've made a video to test the precision. I was so curious myself. Hope this is helpful for you. ua-cam.com/video/87JQsi6dI58/v-deo.html

Interesting, isn't it. Another key reason I use IPA is that the tough resins require IPA to wash them. I'm sure that will change some time soon, if it hasn't already. If someone knows of a 'tough' resin that can be used for functional parts and is water washable, then please let me know. 😀

@@ColinKlupiec This is totaly false. First of all non of the resin maker says exactly what components are in the resine they produce , just for example ABS like doesn't mean there is ABS in the resine they sell you and the formula can be totally different from one maker to another. This market is a real mess but if I spend some time to explain that it is not because i don't belive your observations, it is just a matter of public health and I don't find fair to let individual probe the toxicity of products where laws banned the same products since 20 years for industry. And I am sure there are good water washable resins on the market but you didn't test them.

@@jean-loupdesbordes4833 Thanks for your insight. Yes, you're right...I haven't tested them...yet. Like I said, I'm sure I"ll come across a suitable alternative one day. Hopefully soon. BTW, which products are you referring to which were banned 'for industry' since 20 years?

I've had a few questions about the ABS Pro 2. I'm keen to test it and compare to the tough resins. I've got some tests coming up soon, so stay tuned. 😀

Thanks for your feedback. Glad that was helpful for you. If you need a tough resin with plenty of flexibility as well, you might like to check out the Anycubic Tough Resin Ultra. I did the same test with that resin. ua-cam.com/video/u6vqb5tQAGU/v-deo.html

For my use case it has been awesome. It’s answered many questions for me and I’ll continue to use it as the ambient temperatures change. But, I agree, it is on the expensive side. I seem to be on a roll for reviews atm. There’s another one coming out very soon on a combined digital tape measure / laser distance meter. Stay tuned.

Thanks for your feedback and your question. I designed and 3D printed it myself. I don’t use the sander without it. Contact me on info@colinklupiec.com if you’re interested in getting one.

That’s really interesting. I’ll try that. Thanks for contributing to the discussion. Very helpful.

​@@ColinKlupiecIts actually the same with abs like resin from anycubic. Parts without post curing are way more flexible and after couple days part just "dries".

@@Trancelebration Interesting...

That’s really helpful. I’ll look into that. Thanks for contributing to the discussion. Very helpful.

Perhaps I can help. Those settings don’t look right. What printer are you using? Check the Anycubic website for settings store.anycubic.com/collections/uv-resin/products/tough-resin-ultra Also, try re-levelling your build plate. And, try to keep the temperature above 25 degrees. See if that helps.

@@ColinKlupiec I'm using Mono X 6k, i did use recommended settings at 80% UV but did not stick to the bedplate, resin is at 28c.

That's frustrating. I'd still try re-levelling the build plate. I recently had problems with prints coming away from the build plate on my D2 after months of successful printing. After re-levelling, the prints stuck with no issues. Is it a large object that you are printing?

@@ColinKlupiec I did some few successful prints. Alltought the resin is pretty soft compared to the old "though" resin on thinner parts as 1mm walls just bend easily, I've cured for 1 and 2 hours and it seemed to get softer! Hehe

@@andreaslund5850 I wonder if they should have called it 'flexible' resin, or something like 'super flex'. Because it is tough, and I have a need for that. But it's also flexible. Perhaps a name like 'flexi tough' could also have been appropriate.

👍

😂

Haven’t tried it myself yet.

Thanks for your question. There are links in the description for Amazon and also direct from the Mileseey website.

Me too. I can't figure it out. It's the only resin I've ever had that problem with and I've been using lots of different resins, on three different printers.

I think I'm going to get the any cubic ultra tough to use for tecco toys mecha figures. Was gonna try siryatech blu nylon but this video disuaded me for sure

@@trollpaintingminis4496 I'm glad that was helpful. You may have already seen this, but I did a video on the Anycubic Tough Ultra. It's definitely worth a try if you need something super tough. ua-cam.com/video/u6vqb5tQAGU/v-deo.html

Thanks again. I appreciate the comment. 😀

Glad it helped. 😀

You’re very welcome.