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Dry Ridge System Retrofit - Advice and Tips
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- Опубліковано 12 сер 2024
- This is another roofing video on how to install the Dry Ridge System.
You can get different brands and styles of dry ridge but this video gives the general information on installing which is pretty much the same throughout, although some systems will differ slightly in the parts to the one being used in this video.
In this video i show a retro fit, meaning the ridges were already installed with a mortar bed which has failed. It needs to be removed and we are fitting the dry ridge in its place. The instructions do explain to fit the metal brackets under the top batten, but in retro-fitting this can be a pain as it takes a lot longer to remove all top tiles and the batten, which then needs to be refitted. There is no massive value in doing this but please feel free to do so if you prefer. So, i show how you can simply fit the metal brackets over the top of the batten instead, by using decent screws instead of the nails provided in the kit, screwed into each rafter this will be very solid and won't be going anywhere!
If the roof has a ridge board you can even fit it without the need for the metal brackets, just fit it straight onto the ridge board with 100mm screws - jobs a goodun!
If it helps, please give it a thumbs up and subscribe for more!
I put the business info and phone number below mainly for people who want to get in touch for me to price a project they have to be done.
Note: Due to receiving many calls from all over the country from people wanting advice only I will only take such calls from now on if the person has bought a "super thanks" which can be found below the video on the right side. (It says "thanks" with a love heart and dollar symbol in it) Click and pay what you feel a chat/advice may be worth to you, I will chat and advise accordingly. Thanks for your understanding!
Roofing & Guttering Matters Ltd. Business is based in United Kingdom, Halesowen, B63. We service Birmingham and all surrounding areas. www.yourroofingmatters.co.uk - info@yourroofingmatters.co.uk - 07866424178 - 0121 411 9855.
The way you installed yours looks so much easier than the way I did mine (installed the brackets straight down onto the ridge plate). Glad I came across this.
Thanks for making the video as a roofer myself I enjoy watching how other roofers approach their work. The way you put the baton fastenings on is absolutely fine on a retro fit. The kit your using is geared towards new builds hence the instructions to have the fastening under the batons. A tip I'd offer, and this is something i use myself is to use some penetrative torch on primer on the tops of the tile where the old mortar was allow time to cure and watch how better the under ridge felt sticks to the tiles.
Thanks mate and great tip on the felt. I like that idea 👍
Dry ridges are fitted on all new build multi developments. If these systems were dodgy builders like David Wilson hones
wouldn’t be using them. With dry verges, dry hips and ridges valleys all guaranteed up to 25 years I can’t see the issues.
No mortar joints are guaranteed any where near that on a ridge. I understand they can last even when cracked for 30 odd years.
They also have the advantage of allowing the roof to breath doing away with expensive ridge breathers. The only issue I have
is the use of those plastic top clips. I always use the stainless top clamps, plastic gets brittle with uv light over the years and
can crack and break if the roof is walked on for any reason and then nothing is holding the ridges except their weight.
Fantastic job this chap made on that roof. I’d pay him any day to do a roof.
Thanks buddy 👍
Can you explain how the roof doesn't leak between where the plastic brackets are between each tile? Surely it will leak onto the breathable part of the membrane below?
Excellent video. I would like to see a dry verge retro fit if you get the opportunity.
Keep up the good work with the channel. All the videos are helpful and informative. Cheers.
Thanks for that mate. Yeah I can do a video on that next time I do one. No probs. As a retro fit I usually run a batten the length of the verge fixed to the existing battens. Find that easiest way and is very solid.
Thankyou video was very helpful
Thanks for the video.... Now I know what the dry ridge system is....... It looks effective to me. I wonder how long they will last being exposed to the elements? I'm sure it will out last mortar.
Happy to help bud. Subscribe for more revelations! 😃
I imagine there will be issues getting the adhesive roll to stick. I would clean the area and use PVA to stabilise the surface.
On this day it was very hot and with the tiles brushed down sticking was not an issue. In some cases a primer for flashing tape helps it stick, never used pva but it’s possible it would work too.
@@davesalter Does it matter if it isn't stuck down? My roofers have left the moss around where mine should be stuck down...
@@Robbooo000 it should be stuck down yes.
Does a dry ridge system make any noise? Since ive had mine done, in high winds it sounds like someone slaming doors on the roof..? Any advice?
It shouldn’t is fitted right. Either tiles are loose or the felt is somehow not done right and being caught in the wind I’d say.
Hi , thank you for posting this video. Can I just ask something please. The screw in the centre that goes through the plastic clip, is there a chance water can leak around the screw and seep through?
Thank you
I really doubt it, the screw is tightened against the plastic part making it a bit like a washer with zero gaps.Thanks for watching 👍
Good video, thanks
You’re welcome!
Great video, clear and helpful - thanks for posting. I have plans to do similar on a slate roof. I see there's been mention below of cutting the felt at the apex, and there not being enough room between tiles/top battens on your job... Please may I ask... 1. What is the ideal space between the top battens? 2. With slates, should the top slate be cut to be flush with the top of the batten at the ridge, or should it overshoot the batten a little? Many thanks
Hi thanks for your comment. Top of batten should be 2 inch from the ridge and slate can be at the top of the batten or a little over is fine If it’s an existing roof and top batten is closer than that it’s a much bigger job to strip it out to redo it for ventilation but that’s up to you. Good luck. 👍
@@davesalter Thank you so much for taking the time to reply - really helpful and very kind of you. My battens are 105mm / 4" apart, so that seems about right. Strangely though, on one side they cut the slates flush to the top of the batten, while on the other they extended the slates pass the batten by around 70mm. Odd. Can't see a reason, so when it comes to changing to a ventilated ridge I think I'll cut the top slates down on the one side so that they too are flush with the batten. That'll give me the full 105mm / 4" gap then. Thanks again for the video and for your response.
@@maxdread666 No problem mate. 😃👍
Is it advisable to use specific outdoor screws like ones for deckings, as regular screws will corrode in a few years?
Screws for dry ridge system come with the kit and are stainless steel. Screws I use to fix the metal brackets are zinc coated. They won’t corrode any time soon. Decking screws would be okay I’d imagine for the brackets.
Does the manufacturer recommend the need for drilling the ridge tiles then fixing with a screw and lead washer? Does the plastic joining clips not do that?
Yes each ridge needs 2 fixings per instructions. Only the end ones I’ve drilled, the rest have 2 fixings from the central joiners. The lead washer is my idea. I’m sure others have thought the same.
Not an expert, but aren’t you supposed to open the felt at the top to allow the roof space to be ventilated? Cheers
Looks smart btw 👌🏻
Yes mate you are not wrong. If doing the roof from scratch I’d allow more space on the ridge for the batten to also allow some airflow. Tiles were very tight on this roof as you can see, the batten only just fits between the tiles so no great air flow possible. This loft space is well ventilated and doesn’t suffer from condensation so didn’t make the extra effort and cost to allow for this. Customer just wanted rid of the mortar on this job. Thanks for watching and commenting. 👍
@@davesalter if there’s no condensation problem then no point doing the extra work 👌🏻
@@gdfggggg This will allow for more ventilation even with the smaller gaps too compared with the mortar
Nice video
Looking to save myself £800 👍
Good luck 👍
I am not sure but it does not look like the existing felt is cut short of the ridge, no way for air from inside to escape, which negates the whole essence of the dry ridge system?
Yeah that’s true, the top batten are too close to the ridge line also to allow venting, my batten for the dry ridge fills the gap. Customer wanted dry ridge as he’s fed up with mortar failing. To aid venting I’d have to strip the top couple tile courses and redo it leaving enough room. not getting paid to do that though.
If you instal the ridge caps at the end & make sure they fit tightly to the end of ridge tiles would this count as a 1x mechanical fixing in the same way dry verge does for tiles, which would negate the need to drill & screw the end ridge tiles?
I don’t think the dry verge units count as fixing for the tiles or the ridge really. I can see the logic but I’d always secure the ridge and tiles with their own fixings, especially on the verge. The end caps cannot always be fitted tightly which would leave the ridge free at one end to movement. I’d fix it to be confident it’s secure.
@@davesalter Some dry verge systems manufacturers instructions state they count as 1 mechanical fixing to tiles & the instructions for the northstone tiles that I'm currently fitting to my roof also say appropriate dry verge system count as one, but I've not seen any such guidance regarding ridge tiles so I did wonder 👍
@@northeastcorals ok mate fair enough. The tiles I can see the logic in it, never seen any guidance on it myself either but certainly with the ridge I would think it’s best to secure it with a screw. 👍
Is it pretty much the same for hip ridges
Yeah just add hip trays on top of the roll out membrane.
@@davesalter Thanks i will do that.
Doesn't water (rain) get in through the fixings? Do they somehow seal to the tiles to make the join impervious?
No it’s designed to be fully water tight mate. It’s f fitted right. 👍
Yes, thinking about it, it's the membrane that provides the waterproofing. The fixings are just that (fixings to hold the tiles in place)
@@neilcase the plastic units between each tile give water protection, water will drip down them to the main roof tiles. The felt isn’t water proof I don’t believe, but a vented layer to help the loft space breath if fitted correctly.
This is what I don't understand surely where the bracket meets the edge of each tile water will get in? No way that keeps ot watertight.
Need get a leaf blower , makes life lot easier just blow all the shit away
How much would it cost to do something like this in this time? I was quoted £1500 which seems BS.
Depends how much work there is to do and the length of the ridge/hips to be dealt with? How long is a piece of string?
@@davesalter Just a standard 1970's Semi-detach house
@@SG-ut8ef if it’s just a ridge maybe a little steep but if a hipped roof then maybe about right. Get 3 quotes.
I'm quoted around this price. I work in social care. Would love now to be a roofer, the money seems good!
How do you fix dry system to a chimney ?
You'd need to mortar bed a full ridge tile against the chimney flashing, also using a screw fixing with drilled hole in the end ridge. The lead flashing against the chimney would have saddle on the end tiles under the mortar, so if it was ever to let water in, the water could still escape down the tiles and not leak inside.
Not a roofer, but I wouldn't trust these ridges not to let water in, especially on this old roof, nope. All was needed here was to rebed and cement imo thinking logically.
British building standards requires this system fitted on all new build houses and not sand and cement on building sites anymore. It has proven to be effective and not deteriorate like sand and cement does. So it’s pretty water tight bud. The age of the tiles has zero bearing on its effectiveness. Also on this job the customer wanted dry ridge as he’s fed up with sand and cement deteriorating. 👍
The dry fix system is way better plastic lasts longer than morter.
Why not follow the instructions? The screws he has used will rust and fail. Poking little bit of batten to increase the height instead of a full double batten does not make it any more secure. Should have been entitled how not to retrofit a Dry Ridge System.
The screws are zinc plated, covered by ridges, roof tiles will fail before they rust out. The bit of batten was to demonstrate the height difference. If you watch it again you’ll see I did double batten the length of the roof.
For clarity I would have demonstrated using 2 x 2 batten at the outset rather than 2 pieces of 2 x 1, which is not going to grip the tile as well. I think on just about all retro fits 2 x 1 is too small.
Otherwise good video👍
@@squizza28 Thanks for that. In some cases there is no room to double up the battens so a 2x2 wouldn’t always work. Until you’ve removed the old tiles you wouldn’t know. So I just come prepared with 2x1 and see what I find. Box instructions always have 2x1 also. It’s never going anywhere in either case if done right.
Just done mine, doubled up the battens and it was to high for the ridge. So sunk the screws in and planed the top batten back untill it was just lower than the underside of the ridge. Fully supported and no downward stress on the ridge tile 👍👍👍