Hey Monty! Wising myself up to do my first BB90 service and your video helped me a lot! Have Enduro BB90s on my bike and also picked up the Trek bearings with the spacer, so really glad you could make the crank spindle play nice with the dust cover/spacer!
Great video, very helpful, however, instead of using grease in the BB shell , if you had used loctite it would have most likely prevented the creaking returning.
As Michael mentioned, I believe you should be using Loctite to fit the bearings, not grease. I’m currently debating whether I buy the tools and fix the creak myself or take it to the bike shop.
@@erikvankimmenaede9857 Thanks Eric. You are right! For some reason it just started adding some extra characters at the end of the link. I've updated it and it should now work. Thanks for letting me know.
...er yes. Through my own incompetence. That bit about preventing the non drive side bearing diameter reducer from popping out came from me f-ing it up the first time. I had to force it back in, and in doing so there's a little crack. After I rode in the wet, there's a little crackly creak. Bought some replacement reducers so just need to get around to replacing it - might use the BB press to do it this time...
@@joshdrewpic So I bought over sized V2, 37.1 vs 37.0. How did you get on, I changed mine tonight in winter for summer bike next year, I just rode with earphones in for a year lazy!!! job done, didn't use my press, just lightly taped them in with a small hammer.
@@zzhughesd yeah! it's been alright for me. I also got the 37.1 bearings AND I used some of the retaining compound for good measure. No creaks and everything seems smooth as butter.
@@joshdrewpic yes. After I 37.1 I wish I hadn’t !!!!!!! Seams the .1 is massive. Making it a 37.1 only frame thereafter. Apparently Hambini. Hey just need be NSK FAG quality which are 36.97 and that’s good enough with compund. The Enduros everyone uses are 36.97 and that 0.02 is essentially the creak without compund. Token looks good option where frame gets ruined
When removing a BB90 bottom bracket, Park Tool recommends using a plug, such as 15-17mm socket, in the removal tool to help the splines remain in contact with the bearing you're removing. I haven't tried this, but based on the video and other comments, I thought I'd share this suggestion. ua-cam.com/video/2VnwKrC9rS0/v-deo.html
It's the actual Trek kit: www.trekbikes.com/equipment/cycling-components/bike-bottom-brackets/trek-integrated-shimano-bb90/bb95-steel-bottom-bracket-kit/p/26057/?avad=156683_c1e648a5d
Hi Maff. I've started to watch a few. A bit too detailed and esoteric for me. Amazing the number of views he gets though. Who knew that sort of thing could be so popular...
Mmm, I think that the "dust cover" should be removed. The shaft should be in direct contact with the steel of the bearing.... now instead you have some plastic between.
Have you found an answer to this? I recently removed mine on the same model of bike (womens) and they had what definitely looked like those plastic covers still in. I am unsure if those were the bearings the bike originally came with as it's a 2013 model and I only bought it a couple of years ago. However I think they must be the originals as they failed about a year after I got it (moderate use).
BB90 is a nightmare. The frame shell is never the exact measurement, you have to use primer and loctite to fit, the bearings seize and then you have to take a hammer to your bike to extract them.
I’d certainly heard that sort of thing Michael. My experience replacing them wasn’t too bad. Hopefully the new bearings will be good for another 6 odd years. I note the new Domane, Emonda etc don’t use BB90 anymore...
You don’t actually need all the expensive tools. You can tap out the bearing with a screwdriver and rubber mallet and press the new bearings in by hand. The dust covers are interesting. The drive side beating gets dirty very quickly. Thanks, L
Good work. i would use a bearing puller instead of that metal dildo torpedo. :P i wouldnt hammer a carbon frame. the pullers out there are more gentle with bracket.... i suppose :P
If I hadn't used that tool, I would not have achievement unlocked strangers on the internet (no offence) writing to me about my metal dildo torpedo. Now THAT's worth gambling a broken carbon frame on.
Great video, it's so rare to find someone working on the exact same bike as yours...
thank you for this video, you have shown very clearly how the removal of bb90 works
Thanks good vid, about to attempt my first BB90 install myself. I think though if pressing bearings into carbon cups you shouldn't use grease
Hey Monty! Wising myself up to do my first BB90 service and your video helped me a lot! Have Enduro BB90s on my bike and also picked up the Trek bearings with the spacer, so really glad you could make the crank spindle play nice with the dust cover/spacer!
Good easy too follow vid!
thanks. Glad you found it useful.
@@Sportivecyclist Durianrider put in three bottom brakes while balancing his bike on two cats in the backy.
Isn't it better to press/push out the bearing instead of hammering it? Also do you need loctite primer before using adhesive compound?
Great video, very helpful, however, instead of using grease in the BB shell , if you had used loctite it would have most likely prevented the creaking returning.
Thanks very much. A very helpful video.
Thanks for the video. You should deffo remove the top hat / sleeves before pressing home the bearing...
As Michael mentioned, I believe you should be using Loctite to fit the bearings, not grease. I’m currently debating whether I buy the tools and fix the creak myself or take it to the bike shop.
It all depends what the BB manufacturer's recommend. On Wheels Manufacturing PF 30 they say only use grease as loctite etc will void their warranty.
You dont use loktite on bearings ¡!!!!!!!!!!! You mean the BB
Here are all the tools and parts that I used in this video: www.sportivecyclist.com/trek-domane-4-3-road-bike-rebuild-tools-and-parts-list/
Hi , nice videos on the Domane 4.3. Can you check the link to the materials? It does not work. Thx!
@@erikvankimmenaede9857 Thanks Eric. You are right! For some reason it just started adding some extra characters at the end of the link. I've updated it and it should now work. Thanks for letting me know.
Also am interested to hear how it has been since installation? Any creaking, etc.
...er yes. Through my own incompetence. That bit about preventing the non drive side bearing diameter reducer from popping out came from me f-ing it up the first time. I had to force it back in, and in doing so there's a little crack. After I rode in the wet, there's a little crackly creak. Bought some replacement reducers so just need to get around to replacing it - might use the BB press to do it this time...
Is it bad if the sealed bearings just fall out when crank comes out
I'm wondering the SAME THING. Just happened to me. Was gonna buy the new bearings and see if the fit is better/tighter with a newer bearing.
@@joshdrewpic So I bought over sized V2, 37.1 vs 37.0. How did you get on, I changed mine tonight in winter for summer bike next year, I just rode with earphones in for a year lazy!!! job done, didn't use my press, just lightly taped them in with a small hammer.
@@zzhughesd yeah! it's been alright for me. I also got the 37.1 bearings AND I used some of the retaining compound for good measure. No creaks and everything seems smooth as butter.
@@joshdrewpic yes. After I 37.1 I wish I hadn’t !!!!!!! Seams the .1 is massive. Making it a 37.1 only frame thereafter. Apparently Hambini. Hey just need be NSK FAG quality which are 36.97 and that’s good enough with compund. The Enduros everyone uses are 36.97 and that 0.02 is essentially the creak without compund. Token looks good option where frame gets ruined
Is it just me, does one side of a bearing have a slightly more chamfered edge ??? Or is a bearing identical either side
When removing a BB90 bottom bracket, Park Tool recommends using a plug, such as 15-17mm socket, in the removal tool to help the splines remain in contact with the bearing you're removing. I haven't tried this, but based on the video and other comments, I thought I'd share this suggestion.
ua-cam.com/video/2VnwKrC9rS0/v-deo.html
What brand and where did you get this bottom bracket from, I need a new BB for my Trek Emounda which also has a BB90.
It's the actual Trek kit: www.trekbikes.com/equipment/cycling-components/bike-bottom-brackets/trek-integrated-shimano-bb90/bb95-steel-bottom-bracket-kit/p/26057/?avad=156683_c1e648a5d
same issue with driveside, wouldn’t come out as easily.
Are ceramic bbs worth it ?
I very much doubt it. Based on no knowledge whatsoever…
Hi Monty,
My bearings came apart and the outer Ring is rusted into the carbon frame. I used break-away spray and Hammer &punch but it doesn't move...
Have you watched any of Hambini Engineering by the way?
Hi Maff. I've started to watch a few. A bit too detailed and esoteric for me. Amazing the number of views he gets though. Who knew that sort of thing could be so popular...
Mmm, I think that the "dust cover" should be removed. The shaft should be in direct contact with the steel of the bearing.... now instead you have some plastic between.
Have you found an answer to this? I recently removed mine on the same model of bike (womens) and they had what definitely looked like those plastic covers still in. I am unsure if those were the bearings the bike originally came with as it's a 2013 model and I only bought it a couple of years ago. However I think they must be the originals as they failed about a year after I got it (moderate use).
BB90 is a nightmare. The frame shell is never the exact measurement, you have to use primer and loctite to fit, the bearings seize and then you have to take a hammer to your bike to extract them.
I’d certainly heard that sort of thing Michael. My experience replacing them wasn’t too bad. Hopefully the new bearings will be good for another 6 odd years. I note the new Domane, Emonda etc don’t use BB90 anymore...
You don’t actually need all the expensive tools. You can tap out the bearing with a screwdriver and rubber mallet and press the new bearings in by hand. The dust covers are interesting. The drive side beating gets dirty very quickly. Thanks, L
This bb90 bearings are such a pain in the ass, why won't trek just made their bottom bracket threaded
They do now on some (higher end? all?) models.
The most important part is the grease. Where’s the grease?
Good grief. Too much grease. Not enough grease. No loctite. There’s no pleasing these people 😜
@@Sportivecyclist did you use grease? Or loctite? I am about to install mine on a brand new checkpoint frame
Good work. i would use a bearing puller instead of that metal dildo torpedo. :P i wouldnt hammer a carbon frame. the pullers out there are more gentle with bracket.... i suppose :P
If I hadn't used that tool, I would not have achievement unlocked strangers on the internet (no offence) writing to me about my metal dildo torpedo. Now THAT's worth gambling a broken carbon frame on.
@@Sportivecyclist ahahah, fair enough :) the best is the entertainment
OMG IM FIRST