what. the torque setting will depend on the spring tension and not where you hold the wrench. had a 2009 madone with those bearings that simply fell out of the bb shell but the creaking was not from that nor the crack on the downtube just below the front derailleur, nor from the cracks on the water bottle screws. maybe you just needed to add a small spacer to the crank axle to get the proper tension from the axle set screw. and it's always a guesstimate with those vernier calipers when measuring inside diameters when they are meant for external use,,,but well done otherwise.
Got a Domane and been using one of these myself however the life of them is ever decreasing to 2 maybe 3 a year. Its shambolic that we have to resort to these measures for a bike that at the time cost me over £4k.
I have to agree. This frame design was a real dropped ball on Trek's part. The problem is though that a lot of manufacturers have played around with similar 'direct mount' BB designs - probably seemed like a good idea to them at the time, but get a few years on them and you see the shortcomings of the design. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Hi ! my name is antonio, and just look at the vide you made on how to save a trek madone frame . And it help me to find a solucion for the same problem that I have on my bike . And I wonder if you can send me the link for the replacement that you used on your bike. Please . Sorry if I miss spell a word .
Mine came from eBay - www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185855859524?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=r9pUlY31QCy&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=y8ifol4crzk&var=693820683337&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
I have my BB90 Ninja & tool, getting ready to install soon. You mentioned you had to "gradually tighten each side down to get the cups to bind each other and the frame". Was that because tightening one side was making the outer cup spin inside the shell on the other side? I read that a couple of others had that issue and one was not able to tighten it up and had to drill it out. Maybe the happened because the shell was badly worn and oversized. In your opinion, is this a possibility? I was thinking that greasing the outer race on the Ninja could make it spin.
I honestly think it was down to the wear on the cups in my case. I'm guessing the machining tolerances are pretty tight on these things so just a few thou of slack gives you issues. I also note that they machine the tool pattern into both sides - which suggests they know there's going to be a need for that. It's hard to see in the video but there is clear erosion on the cups in my frame - to the extent that they no longer hold the OE size bearings in place. I can't get over what a bad piece of design this is. The good news is that the bike is running sweetly with the Ninja installed.
Just had another thought about the guy that had to drill the BB out. That actually suggests to me that they had cross-threaded it on install. Can't imagine why it would be so hard to remove otherwise - especially as they claimed it wouldn't tighten into the frame.
How are the bearings holding up? I've got the bb95 on my mountain bike and its been a nightmare so was thinking of changing to the token, providing the bearings are replacable, have you replaced them yet and do you know what size they are?
They are night-and-day different to the OE ones - still going strong. Have not had a need to do anything to them just yet but sure the cartridge bearings will be easy enough to 'pull' from the cups when I have to. Couldn't tell you what size they are - I'll figure that out when I need to change them. Just put one of these Token kits in my TT bike also and they are really nice kits - top quality stuff.
Just brought mine, unending creaking since I took my Domane 5.2 out of the shed for the spring, even with fresh bearings and Loctite the creaking is rampant and no reason to let the carbon getting more destroyed. Hopefully £77 well spent.
I am not entirely sure. I guess that if the crank spindle is 24mm ( the same as Shimano Hollowtech) then this would work. But I know that SRAM has a coupe of other BB standards. Would probably be best to take some measurements from your existing and then cross-reference on the Token website - just to make sure you get the right fitment.
As you added preload to the crank all you were doing was pressing it against the red rubber seal? This can't be correct. No wonder you had problems with it. I have press fit bottom brackets in two of my bikes and tens of thousands of miles and havent had any issues.
@@mikemelbrooks I think BB86 is better (from what I've seen). I'm guessing that Cannondale probably did a better job with their BB90 than Trek. It's not a bad standard per-se, I think it's just Trek's execution that has given me problems. I've seen this problem / view of the Trek BB90 fitment reflected by professional bike mechanics also. Thanks for watching and for your comments.
I'll be honest, it's a while since I bought this so I'm not sure where this particular one came from. I'm sure that Google would turn up the one you need (think I recently got one for the TT bike from Merlin). Just be sure that you're ordering the right one for your application.
@@TheImprobableIronman Understanable, thanks a mil for the reply nevertheless but looks like the right solution for my bike as well. I took it for a service bcaouse of the symptoms and the comapany changed the bearings but never noticed the issue (suprise) ... do it yuorself to be sure its done right 🙂
That... isn't a vernier caliper. That's a digital caliper. A vernier caliper refers to calipers with a vernier scale, which is analog.
Fair point and I stand corrected. But I know one thing - it most certainly is not a micrometer.
what. the torque setting will depend on the spring tension and not where you hold the wrench.
had a 2009 madone with those bearings that simply fell out of the bb shell but the creaking was not from that nor the crack on the downtube just below the front derailleur, nor from the cracks on the water bottle screws. maybe you just needed to add a small spacer to the crank axle to get the proper tension from the axle set screw. and it's always a guesstimate with those vernier calipers when measuring inside diameters when they are meant for external use,,,but well done otherwise.
Got a Domane and been using one of these myself however the life of them is ever decreasing to 2 maybe 3 a year. Its shambolic that we have to resort to these measures for a bike that at the time cost me over £4k.
I have to agree. This frame design was a real dropped ball on Trek's part. The problem is though that a lot of manufacturers have played around with similar 'direct mount' BB designs - probably seemed like a good idea to them at the time, but get a few years on them and you see the shortcomings of the design. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Hi ! my name is antonio, and just look at the vide you made on how to save a trek madone frame . And it help me to find a solucion for the same problem that I have on my bike . And I wonder if you can send me the link for the replacement that you used on your bike. Please . Sorry if I miss spell a word .
Mine came from eBay - www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185855859524?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=r9pUlY31QCy&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=y8ifol4crzk&var=693820683337&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
I have my BB90 Ninja & tool, getting ready to install soon. You mentioned you had to "gradually tighten each side down to get the cups to bind each other and the frame". Was that because tightening one side was making the outer cup spin inside the shell on the other side? I read that a couple of others had that issue and one was not able to tighten it up and had to drill it out. Maybe the happened because the shell was badly worn and oversized. In your opinion, is this a possibility? I was thinking that greasing the outer race on the Ninja could make it spin.
I honestly think it was down to the wear on the cups in my case. I'm guessing the machining tolerances are pretty tight on these things so just a few thou of slack gives you issues. I also note that they machine the tool pattern into both sides - which suggests they know there's going to be a need for that. It's hard to see in the video but there is clear erosion on the cups in my frame - to the extent that they no longer hold the OE size bearings in place. I can't get over what a bad piece of design this is. The good news is that the bike is running sweetly with the Ninja installed.
Just had another thought about the guy that had to drill the BB out. That actually suggests to me that they had cross-threaded it on install. Can't imagine why it would be so hard to remove otherwise - especially as they claimed it wouldn't tighten into the frame.
i think it was newton who said that given a long enough lever, he could move the world (with his limited force).
How are the bearings holding up? I've got the bb95 on my mountain bike and its been a nightmare so was thinking of changing to the token, providing the bearings are replacable, have you replaced them yet and do you know what size they are?
They are night-and-day different to the OE ones - still going strong. Have not had a need to do anything to them just yet but sure the cartridge bearings will be easy enough to 'pull' from the cups when I have to. Couldn't tell you what size they are - I'll figure that out when I need to change them. Just put one of these Token kits in my TT bike also and they are really nice kits - top quality stuff.
Just brought mine, unending creaking since I took my Domane 5.2 out of the shed for the spring, even with fresh bearings and Loctite the creaking is rampant and no reason to let the carbon getting more destroyed. Hopefully £77 well spent.
I can honestly say that, for me, it's transformed the bike.
Hi is it the same bb for sram gropuset? Tks
I am not entirely sure. I guess that if the crank spindle is 24mm ( the same as Shimano Hollowtech) then this would work. But I know that SRAM has a coupe of other BB standards. Would probably be best to take some measurements from your existing and then cross-reference on the Token website - just to make sure you get the right fitment.
As you added preload to the crank all you were doing was pressing it against the red rubber seal? This can't be correct. No wonder you had problems with it. I have press fit bottom brackets in two of my bikes and tens of thousands of miles and havent had any issues.
That's a fair observation and comment. May I ask if those are BB90 both brackets? The BB90 seems to have gained a well-earned reputation.
@@TheImprobableIronman my Giant tcr is BB86 , my Cannondale supersix is BB90
@@mikemelbrooks I think BB86 is better (from what I've seen). I'm guessing that Cannondale probably did a better job with their BB90 than Trek. It's not a bad standard per-se, I think it's just Trek's execution that has given me problems. I've seen this problem / view of the Trek BB90 fitment reflected by professional bike mechanics also. Thanks for watching and for your comments.
Ive same issue with Domane 4.0 so I assume it will work. Can you share the link where you purchased them?
I'll be honest, it's a while since I bought this so I'm not sure where this particular one came from. I'm sure that Google would turn up the one you need (think I recently got one for the TT bike from Merlin). Just be sure that you're ordering the right one for your application.
@@TheImprobableIronman Understanable, thanks a mil for the reply nevertheless but looks like the right solution for my bike as well. I took it for a service bcaouse of the symptoms and the comapany changed the bearings but never noticed the issue (suprise) ... do it yuorself to be sure its done right 🙂