Thank you! I appreciate the comment and will have more how to videos with more insights and helpful tips I've learnt over the years. Will be full steam ahead in the new year for content
@@billywilliams8833 I appreciate the kind words, honestly means a lot. Pushing to grow the channel more so better videos displaying my craft, tips and everything in between to come in the future 👊🏻
Very good and clean work man. You can tell that you enjoy doing it. But why do you actually use the ER312 and not an ER316 welding filler? Keep it up. 🙂✌
Thank you mate I appreciate it. ER316 i would only typically use for 316 stainless, would be used if you’re working hygiene pipework due to its anti corrosive properties. All the SCH10 joins are done with ER308L as you should be, you can weld the flanges up with ER308L and get the same results with the pulse settings provided but it doesn’t puddle no where near the same as the ER312. ER312 is mainly used for dissimilar metals but is still a stainless filler rod and is great for welds that need to be strong and are prone to cracking like this flange weld. Once you’ve welded with it and felt how nice it all blends in, it’s hard to go back. 308L will still do the job on the flange but it’s all down to personal preference. Check out my recent video of my 1.8t manifold PT1 some nice footage of the finished manifold at the end of the video
@@BEYTEK I certainly go through a fair amount! How’s the manifold holding up? I’m the opposite I love tig, huge sigh whenever I have to pull the mig out lmao
Nice video - and some nice arc shots through the helmet! I thought 180A sounded a lot until I realised you are doing a turbo manifold with sch10; if this were an NA application with say 1.2mm wall, would you be using considerably lower amps? Higher than for just joining the tubes, obviously, but less than 180 I'd guess?
@@aaronbuildsa Thank you! I managed to 3D print a lense cover and bought a shade so hopefully I can get some better arc shots and close ups. Correct 180amps would be a little over kill on 1.2mm wall you would struggle not to blow through the tube, I’d be around 120-140 amps on the thinner wall and focusing more of the arc onto the flange and let the rising heat do the rest of the work on the thinner tube. Welding a butt joint on the 1.5/1.2 I’m usually around 50/55 amps. I’m making some headers for a Maserati currently so I’ll try and grab some footage of me welding the flange up and throw it in one of my next videos
@@LukeAston nice, thanks! I need to practice the tube to header joint.. I got ok at the tube to tube (like you, at about 50amps) but it's now been forever since I picked up the torch. Life! A friend of mine has a Maser, it sounds amazing as is but a set of headers must really make it sing!
@@renosgarage7451 chill block leaves it flat enough you don’t need to do much, a touch on my linisher and it’s good to go. Just make sure it’s bolted tightly down and fully left to cool once it’s been welded and it stays nice and flat
Nice results! You ever use silicon bronze if doing a thinner tube wall header? Also what in the actual hell is that tungsten bend? Never seen anything like that and couldn't imagine it even working - but sure enough I just saw it happen! Bizarre.
@@dons1932 I don’t tend to use silicone bronze even on thinner wall tube. 1.0mm 308L filler on 1.5mm/1.2mm 304SS tube on all my work. When you need to get in between tight gaps on runners and onto the flange it’s a game changer. Sharpen it like usual, put the tungsten in a vice and use the tig torch to get some heat in the sharpened tungesten in the vice and gently pull as you give it a few taps with the foot pedal on 120amps
Hey, great content so far. Keep it up. I'm trying my best to learn the basics with a goal of automotive fabrication so videos like this always help.
Thank you! I appreciate the comment and will have more how to videos with more insights and helpful tips I've learnt over the years. Will be full steam ahead in the new year for content
I just found your Channel and Love it, Excellent Video and Workmanship. Thank You 💖
@@billywilliams8833 I appreciate the kind words, honestly means a lot. Pushing to grow the channel more so better videos displaying my craft, tips and everything in between to come in the future 👊🏻
Very good and clean work man. You can tell that you enjoy doing it.
But why do you actually use the ER312 and not an ER316 welding filler?
Keep it up. 🙂✌
Thank you mate I appreciate it. ER316 i would only typically use for 316 stainless, would be used if you’re working hygiene pipework due to its anti corrosive properties. All the SCH10 joins are done with ER308L as you should be, you can weld the flanges up with ER308L and get the same results with the pulse settings provided but it doesn’t puddle no where near the same as the ER312. ER312 is mainly used for dissimilar metals but is still a stainless filler rod and is great for welds that need to be strong and are prone to cracking like this flange weld. Once you’ve welded with it and felt how nice it all blends in, it’s hard to go back. 308L will still do the job on the flange but it’s all down to personal preference.
Check out my recent video of my 1.8t manifold PT1 some nice footage of the finished manifold at the end of the video
great welding skills. must have some massive argon bills haha. I migged my last manifold. ive begun to hate tig a bit.
@@BEYTEK I certainly go through a fair amount! How’s the manifold holding up? I’m the opposite I love tig, huge sigh whenever I have to pull the mig out lmao
Nice video - and some nice arc shots through the helmet! I thought 180A sounded a lot until I realised you are doing a turbo manifold with sch10; if this were an NA application with say 1.2mm wall, would you be using considerably lower amps? Higher than for just joining the tubes, obviously, but less than 180 I'd guess?
@@aaronbuildsa Thank you! I managed to 3D print a lense cover and bought a shade so hopefully I can get some better arc shots and close ups. Correct 180amps would be a little over kill on 1.2mm wall you would struggle not to blow through the tube, I’d be around 120-140 amps on the thinner wall and focusing more of the arc onto the flange and let the rising heat do the rest of the work on the thinner tube. Welding a butt joint on the 1.5/1.2 I’m usually around 50/55 amps. I’m making some headers for a Maserati currently so I’ll try and grab some footage of me welding the flange up and throw it in one of my next videos
@@LukeAston nice, thanks! I need to practice the tube to header joint.. I got ok at the tube to tube (like you, at about 50amps) but it's now been forever since I picked up the torch. Life! A friend of mine has a Maser, it sounds amazing as is but a set of headers must really make it sing!
Do you mill the flange flat or does the chill block keep the flange flat enough to not need it
@@renosgarage7451 chill block leaves it flat enough you don’t need to do much, a touch on my linisher and it’s good to go. Just make sure it’s bolted tightly down and fully left to cool once it’s been welded and it stays nice and flat
Nice results! You ever use silicon bronze if doing a thinner tube wall header? Also what in the actual hell is that tungsten bend? Never seen anything like that and couldn't imagine it even working - but sure enough I just saw it happen! Bizarre.
@@dons1932 I don’t tend to use silicone bronze even on thinner wall tube. 1.0mm 308L filler on 1.5mm/1.2mm 304SS tube on all my work. When you need to get in between tight gaps on runners and onto the flange it’s a game changer. Sharpen it like usual, put the tungsten in a vice and use the tig torch to get some heat in the sharpened tungesten in the vice and gently pull as you give it a few taps with the foot pedal on 120amps