How to repair Mazda MX5 / Miata Front Chassis : Huge Rust Holes (2022)
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- Опубліковано 15 жов 2024
- In this video we repair the front chassis leg on the Mazda MX5 / Miata Rusteration.
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Music: Beach by Limujii is licensed under a Creative Commons License.
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Music: Utopia by ASHUTOSH is licensed under a Creative Commons License.
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What a gem this channel is. So many people would look at a vehicle like this and never even think of touching it, which always bugs me. What will become of all of our old favorite classic cars if we junk every rusted frame? You actually show us how to solve this problem and make our cars theoretically last forever so THANK you!
Hi thank you for the support , yes that is what we try to do as well as answer every question , glad you are enjoying the videos 😁👍
This exactly. Just bought an RX-7 FC for 800 bucks and it has some rust holes in the rocker panels and fender. So im learning to restore bc I can't allow it to be scrapped
@@thercf16guy35 that's just what this channel is about :) glad our videos will help :)
@Yorkshire Car Restoration what did you spray at the end of it?
Glad I found this channel. There’s a second Gen Miata sitting outside my friends house, he said it’s been there since he was a baby. He’s 18 now, so I imagine all those years being uncovered in the snow, surely it’s rusted by now.
Quite posibly but minus the salt so may have survived to some extent :)
@@yorkshirecarrestoration In that case, I’m gonna take welding classes later this year and learn how to revive cars and restore them using these vids! Thank you so much! Safe Travels from the US!
This video gave me the confidence to do this on my car. I got some pre-made panels though. Got it all cut out today and panels test fitted. Tomorrow I just have to weld it up and put it all back together. Thanks for the video!
Hi George , glad the video was of help :)
so? How did it end up? Hope its all fine?
Back to the MX5 Mk2 and getting there for handing back to the owner. An other great front chassis rail clip. Thanks again guys!
No thank you Eddie for the support :) 👍
My 99 NB has gone in the same place, the double skin front crumple zone is notorious for rotting out as us MX5 owners know, passenger side seems ok so removed the front slam panel mounts and sprayed a whole lot of oil inside the box section.
Great channel !
Love watching you work! Found your channel because I have a 2000 Miata. I was told there is some rust on the front frame rails...suprise! So I took it to refinisher and was told $6000 to replace the front rails, mostly would be labor due to the fact that he would have to remove everything from the engine bay and suspension. Now, I have watched several of these videos, and don't see that EVERYTHING has been removed to do this...can someone please enlighten me? Thank you! c
some people wont undertake the job without removing everything whereas we tend to squeeze ourselves in tight spaces, but it dose tend to lead to more weld burns haha
The only youtube channel I click 'Like' before I even watch the vid.
Im so glad I came across your chanel. you have taught me not to be afraid to takle my rear arches. I did wonder if you would mind saying where you get you galvanised rear panels from. Just fantastic!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you Colin and glad the videos help, we get our panels from David manners online :)
wow, i certainly don't know anyone that would tackle rust like that around me. incredible work! what is that aerosol product you spray before the weld through primer? thanks!
That would be rust neutraliser :)
Absolutely incredible! I wish you could do this to my Mazda 5 2008 in Canada!
it would be a long trip to do your car :)
What kind of welder are you using for this repair? I am going to try and tackle this issue on my car but I currently only have a generic MIG welder (pretty cheap). Do I need to invest in a different / better welder before I start this?
Great video, im going to attempt to tackle a smaller spot after watching this. What undercoating product are you using?
Amazing job, wich sealant and anti corrosion do you use? Thanks
I love the way you fabricated them panels ,pure skill right there 👍🇬🇧
Thank you Richard :) 👍
No worries videos are really good 💯
Total skill, freaking artist! Wish I could do anything like that!
You continue to astonish. Take a bow!
Thank you again Bazer :) 👍
Enjoying your channel. Not trying to be negative but I’ve been in auto body in the US for 38 yrs. and the way you repaired the rail wouldn’t pass in the repair industry here. The extra layers of inner rail would have to be replaced, as well as stepped/staggered for strength. Does the vehicle repair authority there give you any trouble for repairing the rusted rail the way you did it?
what was the Mipa spray you used to coat the bare metal, excelant video
What is this stuff you’re using? Is that zinc spray? And some type of black silicone and rubberized undercoating?
Weld through primer and upol gravitex or gladiator.
Hello, excellent videos & I can appreciate creating your own patches to minimize costs to keep these cars on the road. However, given the cost of replacement channels (both bottom, inner, and top) which cost me 130.00 CDN and the fact that all the factory holes/mntg nuts, etc... are in the correct spot, -- at what point do you go to factory fresh metal vs. fabricating your own. In this case I noticed the inner 4 stabilizer mount holes were retained so you could use it as a reference when bolting the stabilizer bracket back on. If they were too corroded and need to be removed - is it at that point you'd use factory metal. Just curious as to when/if you would recommend factory sheet metal.
When you say factory metal I’m guessing you mean pre fabricated as Mazda don’t make repair panels as I know of.
It’s easier and cheaper making your own by a long way as the sheet steel costs about £20 also the factory bolt holes aren’t a problem because if they are corroded away the metal is replaced then rivnuts are used, and it’s more fun making your own :)
@@yorkshirecarrestoration What about your labour rates to build the patch parts vs. factory OEM panels. I understand the concept of economic repair (You single handedly probably kept more cars on the road and out of the car wrecker) but at some point does the cost of parts/labour exceed making them. There is also a distinction between OEM vs 3rd party replacement sheet metal where the latter requires some fitment to make things work. Enjoy watching the videos. Just interested in your opinion.
@@lenkimmar and we appreciate the feedback :) we don't make these videos for people to bring there cars to us and add our labour onto the price of the repair, we show these videos so people know how to do the repairs themselves with little skills and materials making it possible to keep more classic cars on the road and from the dreaded scrapper :)
We will be adding more description via audio to explain what we are doing and looking for whilst repairing helping people to better understand how to undertake the job in hand :)
@@yorkshirecarrestorationIt’s a generous act of public service you guys are doing! It’s funny, in bike restorations, some people jealously guard their repair or restoration techniques so that the marque owners club members feel they have to go to the one guy. Like speedo / tacho repair & aesthetic restoration.
I always share the specialty that I contribution, rekeying all four lock bodies to one key. I find many people still don’t want to tackle it and so they bundle the lock set over to me. But it’s all it there for those who fancy having a go at their own!
Cheers Steve.
Nice job as always, wonder what kind of setting you run on the welder? Also what size of wire do you use?
Wire is 0.8 and on a 180amp welder we use power setting 3 of 6 and wire feed we use 4 of 10 :)
Superb as always!
Thanks again!
i am never buying a car from the UK ! another great video
hi Karen thank you and yes lots of rust due to bad weather and salt on the roads :)
Sorry to burst the bubble but the cars in Japan are now rusting, it took longer to happen but they are now having the same issues. Even worse they are repairing the load bearing parts of the sills with plastic parts in Japan.
U.S. vehicles are just as bad depending on the location
great work , amazing skill but is it economical to be working on a relatively cheap car
Brilliant job and you make it look easy.
Took me days to replace mine but you are still inspiring me to finish the whole car...thank you
Ah glad our videos are helping Paul :)
I wish i was able to leave my car to you =) great work!
Thank you Mikael that’s a nice compliment :)
what is that paint you use after the repair to cover the bare metal?
that would be either upol gravitex or upol raptor :)
The EVIL of double skins ..... the production technique of Beelzebub! All that rot started between the inner and outer skins where moisture got in and enjoyed the greenhouse effect. Worse still, theres no really effective way of getting wax between the skins. You'd have to immerse the shell in an oil bath to prevent corrosion in these chassis rails. Love byour videos and I'm very jealous of the cropper, and the shrinker/stretchers. Please use a guard on the angle grinders. If a disc blows up you'll know the benefit.
Are you going to treat inside the new boxsection?
Just a question,the metal pieces that you usé, are the same thickness,than the original,or Its not so importante?
Yes it's important as they are structural sections, we use the same guage or slightly thicker :)
Great job, at first glance it makes you won't to drive down a dark road pull the tag plates off and leave it on the side of the road.
Haha this one is a challenge:)
Just wondering what sort of thickness your buying your sheet at?
Most is 1mm but we use up to 1.6 for structural areas :)👍
Glad I found your channel
Welcome aboard!
Hey man I really like your videos. I have restored a couple MX-5's myself, along with a few other fun projects. I've got a couple quick booth videos on my channel. Been looking to get into more metal work and become a better fabricator. I'd love to pick your brain.
we can always be contacted via email :)
Loved that vid, how would I get in contact with you guys about having the same job done please
We can be contacted on instagram , just search for Yorkshire car restorations and have a chat with Ryan :)
What brand metal shears is the blue one you have mounted on the table? I can only find the cheap knock off I would rather purchase a quality one
It’s actually just one costing about £80 off of eBay :)
Sadly, most first gen Miatas and MR2 look like this in the northern countries (I'm in Norway). It looked like quite a bit of that "frame" rail was double walled that you liberally cut away and replaced with single wall? Not that a Miata is crashproof anyway, but that makes it even less so?
Hi yes it was but it was replaced with much thicker steel. Thank you for your input.
Брат ! Отличная работа!!! У меня вопрос какой толщины метал на лонжероне?
16 gauge
@@yorkshirecarrestoration Ок спасибо за ответ!!!
Why do you not prime the inside of the panel ? Isn’t this a risk to rust from the inside ?
Not when it's neatralized and Waxoiled after the job is finished.
@@yorkshirecarrestoration alright 😁 good to know
How much would it cost you have this done on my miata?
Well at today's prices front chassis repairs are about £425 per side :)
That's the rustiest NB that I've ever seen someone try to save. Power to you, having the skills to save it- and show us how you did. I once bought an NA Miata for pocket change. I saved the hood doors and decklid. But, underneath, it was good structurally.
a lot are
Quite an old video, but what's the rough cost of this kind of job? Mainly just out of morbid curiosity.
What's the name of the black squeezy stuff you spread with your finger and the black squirty stuff you put on afterwards ?
Seam sealer
What spray sealer and gun is that?
do Na rails rust like this? ive been doing my inner and outer sills that are gone, havent looked at rails yet.. (cars in lockup away from home so cant just go look)
Hi Calum , no NA rails dont suffer like this as they are single skin rails, the NB rails are double skin so trap moisture .
Why do NB frame rails rust in first place? Something to do with them being two layer construction trapping moisture? Or just brackets start to rust fast and then everything around them? NA seem to not have this problem...
Hi Ivan , Yes its the double layer that traps moisture :)
Mazda had to get the cars to pass the latest crash regulations in 1998 and 2000. While the Mk1 front chassis rails give virtually no corrosion problems, the MK1 front chassis rails would not allow the required amount of controlled crumple that the crash regulations regulations demanded. Mazda used twin walled front chassis rails on the Mk2 and Mk2.5. This allowed the cars to pass the crash test but they did not realise that the twin wall structure would fail due to water penetration.
I reckon that's what my friend who bought mine off me & rescued it had to do. It's a shame that Mazda built this 'self destruct' system into them. What would you be doing otherwise though? !?
if they weren't repaired they would have been scrapped for sure
Where do you have your workshop
just outside scunthorpe.
What size wire do you use
I found how you did that bit of the chassis where you over lapped the metal instead of doing a flush finish,you go to that much trouble for that,why not take a bit more time
because its not needed and is hidden so a lap weld is fine :)
Fantastic video..just shows what you can do when you think it's hopeless....only question is when those two bolts sheared off I thought you might have dealt with them after you had cut the rot out while it was easy to weld in some new captive nuts.......then I thought you will be welding a new bracket into your new part but then you shultzed it...did you have to go back and made a support bracket for the brake hose?...many thanks for the video...quality work...👍👍
And snapped nuts we deal with after making and protecting the part. We simply drill holes and use rivnuts :)
@@yorkshirecarrestoration I thought you would have a cunning plan...😆😆
чувак, а кронштейн провода абс куда крепить? или он так и останется висеть на пружине?
It's gets tech screwed back into its original place.
Really enjoy watching your videos, your attention to detail and professionalism is second to none, I hate so many welder simply weld over a plate over existing rust without even bothering cleaning out the rot and debris in the chassis legs.
Did you add drain holes btw?
Hi Tony thank you and yes we add drain holes to most areas :)
Ola esse tipo de disco de corte tem como vc mostra ou da a referencia. Obrigado..
Hi it's a 4inch slitting disk they can be purchased off ebay :)
when you got the wire bush out at the start I thought, fuck me he's gonna be on for ever with that haha
That chassis rail is horrendous good work though guys 👍👍
Thank you Lee. Yes it is an extreme example :)
Precioso injerto 😂.. con todas esas herramientas.. podría superarse más
Gracias por su comentario
Can I ask what thickness of plate did you use for this? I’m setting out tackling mine soon I noticed that originally they’re double skinned, mine don’t look as bad as these on first inspection but that might change when I start, I’ve nearly watched the full series on this so far and it’s given me a good insight into what to expect so thanks
We use 16 gauge for this :)
@@yorkshirecarrestoration thanks that’s a real help
Klasse
If you listen carefully you can just make out the car saying thanks guys! 😁
Haha thank you Anthony. I’m sure if it could talk it would say something along those lines as we know this would have been on the scrap pile otherwise :)
its no surprise they rust so badly with all the double skinned panels there are.
Yep the mk1 didn’t have double skin and dosnt suffer the same problems :)
This is great cosmolition, not an actual structual repair using sheetmetal and not high strength steel sheet metal
There is then a video that clearly shows that there is a reason why the training as a sheet metal worker in Denmark takes 3.5 years. I will never make a repair of a beam that way. You are in no way close to making the strength as it was from the factory. the way you make joints time on video 11.58 and 12.10 clearly shows that you are not getting welded properly in the existing beam, for that matter. your entire beam must be made as a u-profile with two bends at the top, and the tip that is welded on must be removed and mounted on the new beam because you hide a lot of rust there. but with sealant and thick body spray it does not look wrong, except that you forgot a hole 13.21
regards Per
We don't live in Denmark :)
I agree. The beam is a structural thing and as such must have certain characteristics. Strength is one of them, way of deformation another. Other issue is absence of rust protection from inside and outside as well (no, UBS is not rust protection, and application on bare metal is not good idea). So the holes will appear in few years again. The beams corrode from inside out. I would not let my car be repaired like this, it's patchwork, not repair. Sorry.
Think he's doing it to a price on this one ..what the customers prepared to pay, perhaps the customer only wants another year or 2 out of it . ..if you look at the other stuff ..youll see him making far better jobs and excellent work - so its all down to price i think
To think all this is so easy to avoid with Fluid Film or saw chain oil spraying, cavity wax or whatever..
Yes deffo a good Waxoil years ago would have prevented this :)
@@yorkshirecarrestoration very surprising to me how fluid film (lanoline grease from wool) saved my Escort 1977 Estate wagon when rust had gotten a hold in cavities and everywhere, some patching needed. It just stopped the rust cold after a thorough treatment. Guess a car like this could use some stuff with serious ability to creep into all corners to be rid of the rot long term.
🤘😎🤘
in Belgium is such repair not permitted ! ! !
Luckily it is here :)
@@yorkshirecarrestoration that is a fact, i wished that i was there ! !
@@patricklefevere6154 La réparation des longerons est interdite?
So you are cutting away multilayers of sheet metall, and replacing them with one thin single sheet of metal.
A big no no. Looks good but is a load of crap.
thank you for your comments.
❤❤❤❤❤❤❤😊
Was the owner emotionally attached to this car?
Yes he was :)
Well, I know where I'm taking my mgb when it's arse starts falling out 🤷♂️
😮😡 Think car MUST have parked in the ocean for about 5years!!!!!!!
Id go 10 years Barry :)
Don’t forget the mask mate
Most ppl would have weighed it in lol
Hi Andrew We aren't Most people :D, we try to show all repairs so that people can take away a small bit that they need for their cars.
Si
:)
The no mask or anything is sketch to me, breathing in all the rust particles and what not
Not a huge issue when the ventilation is good enough. That being said, at the moment my lift is in a corner where there is not much airflow. So I have to wear masks quite often. When designing my new workshop, I'll make sure it can be well ventilated. Not just helps with breathing, but also keeps the dust issue better under control.
Thanks Michael, yes the ventilation is good in the workshop.
Going well until you sprayed that crap on .
Why thank you.
@@yorkshirecarrestoration 😆 I aim to please .Great videos
No mask, no safety goggles and missed a rust hole right next to the patch repair. 🤷
Thank you
Horrible
Thank you.
Majstor dobar auto nula prije obnove i poslije
What gauge sheet do you use for chassis repair
16 to 14 gauge