30 Volts to a Lego Motor
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- Опубліковано 9 лют 2025
- Let's increase voltage on a Lego PF Medium Motor and see how it affects torque (by measuring lift force). Where's the limit? Does the motor have a protection circuit? Will the motor smoke and catch fire?
2010: Overclocking 980x to 4,5GHz!
2018: Overclocking lego motor to 30V
*overvolting to be the nerd here
Lel what ur saying doesnt make sense
Josef Aschwanden overclocking is also overvolting.
Thats not overvolting, thats overloading
Feels weird to read my own comments from a year ago
The only reason why it should fail at very high voltages would be shorts or overheating. When you keep the shaft from moving, the electromagnetic field fails to convert it's energy to kinetic energy and thuss converts it to heat. You should try and let it spin freely on 30V 2A and see how long that survives.
Someone else with a brain. Bravo for noticing the grave error of the individual doing the test. I could fry the motor at 9V if I stalled the motor.
If you go below the maximum voltage by a large enough margin, a stalled motor won't burn out. I'm not sure 9 Volt is low enough compared to the 12V these motors are supposedly rated at. Anyway without modifying a new lego motor the only way to burn the out is to have an already defective motor, since they are overtemp-protected.
The motor would consume less than 2A of current at 30V with no load. Theoretically it should therefore last longer, until the brushes fail or the motor overheats
its actually no that bad of a test if you consider that all the contraptions he builds run under 90% load there is next to no cooling air at those rpms
Actually, you can't fry a LEGO motor at 9V. The motors inside are designed to work up to 12V, but LEGO decided to limit their system to 9V so people wouldn't be able to burn them out.
Add a lego-fan to keep it cool.
Wouldn't you say Brick Experiment Channel already is a lego fan?
I think he meant a lego cooling-fan
i1.sndcdn.com/artworks-000087109121-lvbe3t-t500x500.jpg
gerbizzlefoshizzle
I knew it was a joke, but i couldn't... lol
when you bypass the lego motor overload protection by removing it all together:
tecc
Teknik*
Tehc
I wonder if you could find a brushless motor of the same size and install it in a lego motor housing
Jay Hendren yeah, he should do that!
There was a time when you could, back when people were modding out the old Team Losi Mini-T.
Problem is, you need an external controller to run one of those.
@@VestedUTuber not so difficult, 2$ for the controller. A brushless motor in Lego technic should be wonderful.
+Alfio Locatelli
That motor controller still needs a PWM signal and it only works in one direction. You'd at least need either a microcontroller or an RC system to control it and you're SOL if you want to reverse rotation without rewiring it.
yes but you dont care about the signal, you still use it like a dc motor. ESC does all the work and there are some ESC that allow both two direction with a simple interface without rewiring . Yes the cost will be higher but is a brushless motor :D , maybe too strong to stay in the middle of a plastic lego.
I’m impressed with how amazingly consistent the strength curve is, it’d be really easy to follow the arc to find its true maximum theoretical pulling force, if you discount the physical failure of the mechanical components. Good stuff!
"30V? That could power your heart for 50 lifetimes!"
"Yeah, or something big for six seconds."
This makes absolutley no sence at all
This remembres me iron man 1
@@zsirri3514 thats the point of the comment
Underrated
Too bad 30V can do nothing
Everyone gangster when he takes off the overload protection!!
Could it run for more than 6 seconds if you let it spin, rather than have it stopped by the string etc? Or does that not make a difference?
I wonder the same...
I think so. When the motor spins, back-EMF goes up and the current across the windings goes down. Less current = less heat
Motors draw a lot more current when they're being forcefully stopped, so logically it should last quite a lot longer if allowed to spin without a load. With that said, it's very likely that it would still burn out eventually.
Indeed- I've seen enough PhotonicInduction videos to know what happens to over-volted motors with no current limiting... ( ah, the good old days ) ua-cam.com/video/QFp-q8F87Q4/v-deo.html
super melty
Try the highest voltage that was safe for the motor(after the edit) with the most efficient gear layout and see how much you can lift
and how about the speed per voltage ?
Pretty high something like 800kv
Thats exactly what I was expecting when I clicked this video.
id like to see how fast it spins by itself
Stalin, Your Leader
Yes how how fast rpm could you get out of this bad block motor
you would want to measure that .... and also measure the stall and unloaded currents so you could calculate the motor's characteristics :-).
Are you planning to put that on BT-7 and BT-2's?
Would be interesting to see if there is a voltage which it can handle and still last around a minute.
Cool idea to see something like a 12v lego motor and see what the maximum amount you can lift is! Love the vids!
i love ur testing mechanics with lego, i think almost every one thinking back to his young years :D give that man 1mio abos! lets go!
Barely related to the video, but I saw an ad with LEGOs in it, and my mind went strait to, “Finally, some good fuckin’ *ads.* “
AvE and Big Clive should see this.
This is pretty common for any electric motor to handle a higher voltage than it is designed for, for a short time. Even 32v isn't too bad for a short burst, but get up to 48v and that's risking the motor a heck of a lot more even with short bursts.
This channel is awesome. One of my favorites for sure.
Educational!
Einfach nur schönes Geschichten erzählen:)
Die Gedanken jedes Lego-Liebhabers, wären nur die Albträume beim Gedanken an zerstörtes Lego nicht so schlimm.
Aber - für die Wissenschaft!
You should try 30 Amps 😁
Lego Technic Mastery only gonna draw as many amps as it needs
Lego Technic Mastery Thats not how it works
Sorry but that’s not how electricity works
what? xD
Now he just needs a power supply that can do 30A at 450V, DC.
One of the reasons why the motor doesn’t last very long on 30V and 2A is that it’s a brushed DC motor, and the brushes wear out faster at higher power.
2:14 What is the meaning of the orange dot?
I guess green are "unmodified" & blue are "modified", but orange? Starting value? But why 7V when the engine can do 9V? (0:44)
The orange dot is done with Lego battery box. The voltage from the battery box is 9V but drops to 7V under load.
Aha, thanks.
(maybe add a color explanation next time ;)
Haha reminds me when I was a kid, I had a Mecanico(sp?) set, and it came with a 3v motor (2 AA batteries to power it) so I basically made a prop blade, though not really a prop since it had no lift. Just straight blades. I tried a 9 volt, then 2 9 volts, then 3... I ran out, so I tried 120vac and it let the magic smoke out. That motor did take quite the beating before I blew it though. Fun times.
This is beautiful looking!
my dude overclocked a lego wtf
Your videos are awesome!
id love to see you revisit the gearing and tackle with this newfound knowledge. maybe add some way to keep it cool. reach out to a machine shop to get a aluminum housing for it with water jackets to liquid cool it to keep it from overheating at stall so you can REALLY have some fun with it.
just a thought. love the channel!
and it looks like the short you got is just that you f**ked the commutator bars on it. I'd love to send in a fairly large and powerful DC motor that I'm sure you could adapt to work with the lego systems. (motor is 2-200v,will handle around 10a at stall for half a minute)
No short circut. Motor brushes burnt. The 2 prongs on the back of the motor are supposed to have graphite blocks on them. They are either gone or very short.
just realized how weird it is seeing stuff that doesn't look like lego inside lego stuff
“You see, we all have questions we need answered” -SSM
Yeah that capacitor you removed from the motor was a smoothing component to ensure a ramped acceleration, blocking current at full charge.
You replaced it with a straight up copper wire, you shorted it yourself.
You know what they say, you can't advance mankind's scientific knowledge without burning out a few Lego motors in the process.
Great channel, love your videos! 👍
Now we need to find the optimal over charge to durability ratio with which to achieve the ultimate lift!!!
Interesting video
Retest everything with the PPTC bypassed. That would be the correct way. The PPTC has a positive "cold" resistance that limited the torque.
Hardy motor, I thought it would burn out before... now it is clear due to what it produces a large torque on the shaft, a planetary gearbox. In fact, the design is the same as in the screwdriver, only in miniature). Thanks for the video, it was interesting to see what's inside. Привет из России!
Smh why didn't elon musk just use one lego motor and overclocked it with 100000 volts or shit like that for his teslas.
🔥 to a lego motor
I would like to see you apply this procedure to the apparatus from the "Testing Lego gear and pulley systems - part 2" video; i could only imagine the lifting strength on that thing.
Very interesting video, keep the good work going!!
Paper-less experiment, I love that!
I liked that "Tuning" part xD
This video gave me the courage to see what was wrong with my m motor needed a resauter
[Removes Overload protection]
Baaaaad boy
This is so interesting im hooked
fun fact: that capacitor in parallel with the motor was to make it 4x faster than normal.
That is resistor
you gotta love the mindless destruction of legos for science
Wonder why I never subscribed?
Pretty gud content, I must say
I'm surprised the torque kept increasing. Normally, once you reach the field strength of the magnets, the torque won't increase, no matter how much current you apply. I didn't think those magnets had that much coercivity. Did I see a planetary reduction gear set in that motor?
the XL motor is planetary
I wonder how the next 100 pieces are going to break. It really is a question of what this channel will do in the mere future, and how it is done.
Got a fuse or resistor causing trouble? Replace it with a chunk of metal! Classic DIY solution. :)
Not a normal work at a 30 Volt, but a super work. Do the test with a simple rotation
to optimize power you should run them at 1/2 of their nominal RPM.... in college we learnt how to calculate DC motors. essentially its a linear line running from zero RPM and max current (only torque) to max RPM and zero torque (0 torque coming out). overvolting shifts that up - so you would get a high stall current and theoretically atleast a slightly higher free-running RPM. ... ideally you run it a bit over 1/2x the free-running RPM because below that extra load reduces the speed, which causes current to increase but power to drop. above that midway point power increases towards the max. when the load is increased, so its stable without stalling out. same should hold true for these lego motors :-).
I never saw the interior of a motor, interesting!
The evil genius of Lego
okay finally found it whats that voltage machine controller thing
a powersupply?
Keep up the good work :)
But wait, now you have to do all the lifting experiments with this modified motor and use maximum voltage.
You should try this with your crane/pully designs and see how much more you can lift
You have invented a match lighter
I'm a little bit disappointed. I expected some smoke coming out of the motor and melting plastic and even flames...
BTW: great video, as always 😀
You should come up with a transfer function for the voltage vs torque. It wouldn't tell you anything you don't already know though.
Just for funzies I guess.
also, do you have a video on how to make lego engines ? they seem overpriced and not so powerful and there's a huge electronics shop next to where I live with a shit load of different engines. I'll try at first to just fit an axle connector on the drive shaft and a long axle with some stabilizers to make it the more straight possible. Maybe I can find a rubber piece that will make the shaft thicker so it holds tight and then put some glue once I'm sure it rotates straight.
Nice definition of torque boi ! Lmao
Lego motors in Africa could have eaten that voltage.
Now combine this overclocked motor with a nice big gear ratio and build us a technic rig that can lift a person xD
Next video: 3000 volts in a lego motor
Next time, don't forget to use a Fluke branded meter
Well, since that original 130 motor bit the dust, replace it with a MTB Neo Rhino or OOD Kraken and see how well *that* performs in an M motor. Just use thicker wiring and a power supply that can supply a LOT of current.
Now, build a Lego Tesla with a bunch of 3.7V soldered together in series xD
How much Current to Melt this Motor down ?
Lego Technic Exploration I say it won't make it past 6, it would be a miracle if it could make it past that
Well, it already shorted at the applied ~3A, so thats quite a strong clue. Also, it's not the current that melts it, it's the supplied power vs cooling ability of the motor (ie. surface area) If you were able to sustain the 60W dissipated in the motor before the rotor windings shorted, it would most certainly melt after a short while. In fact, the shorted windings is the start of melting - the lacquer on the conductor melted.
gerbizzlefoshizzle Very very interesting ! Thank you for your kind answer !
how much time would it last on a lego car ?
This motor took 60W :)
He should make a rc car with that motor at 30 volts!
new video idea: 48 volts to a lego motor for the lolz even though it will never work and melt the motor
What he should have done is found the highest voltage at which it can run for!a reasonable amount of time and then set that up with his pulley system. See how much *that* can lift!
It could be possible to rewind those motors with a bigger wire (say 24 or 22AWG solid core) to make them more powerful and change there speed.
See "dc motor rewind" on internet, you could find very interesting things
So surely you can put a slightly higher voltage lipo inside the power brick to get more out of the motors?
Thank you so much. What kind of kit is this? Would really appreciate if you could put up a video of a starter kit for a middle schooler.
Motor would burn even in standard 9V if you prevent it from spinning
Hi. It would be interesting to see if the lego powered up hub will work with 3s LiPo batteries. Have you tried this?
30V - 3A .... you're dumping 90W into that poor motor .... you may as well just cook it!
It's not a lego motor... it is just a DC motor in a lego designed case...
63.2 W for 6 s That's a real Dragster. I wonder how fast such a Lego Dragster would be like 1/8 mile
I'd like to know how much weight it can lift using a 30:1 ratio while running at 30v. It would be surprising
Next question would be how much voltage can the receiver safely handle and for how long? 11.1v? 12v?
Хороший вопрос, мне тоже надо знать
So the secret all along was a 60 Watt Lego motor :^)
How about 30V with gears? Or free spinning?
Next time you should probably water cool it. Thats usually the best for overclocking 😂
I connected one of these to the wall with the wire severed from a box fan, at my friend's house and it was destroyed, and his power went out
please try and fit a brushless motor in the lego motor housing and see if it works :D
I wonder how fast you could turn the wheel with this
Makes me miss photonicinductions videos
Now do a lego gear and pulley systems v3 with that motor
Press f to pay respects.
Could you rewind the motor with a lower gauge wire. It would lower the maximum rpm but increase the amount of torque output because the thicker wire has a lower resistance allowing more current to flow.
The short cuircut is the wire you jumped
Have you got an ev3 brick? And have you ever tried running that off a higher voltage? I had mine running off 10 point something to make my last video work, but don't wanna push too hard in case I fry it. Those things are expensive...
TECHNICally Possible your username is perfect for this channel
Aw cool! You're the person who made the daft lego video (and many others)
TECHNICally Possible it would be safer to construct some cables that can use an external power source. All the electronics inside the EV3 will have their own voltage regulation but there's no saying what the tolerances of that are without opening it up
You can get away with that because there's a voltage regulator on-board that drops the logic voltage to whatever the board uses (either 5v or 3.3v) - only the motors see that higher voltage. As a result, your voltage limit is determined by the voltage regulator's maximum input voltage.
I'd suggest opening the case and taking a look at the board. You should be able to trace the positive terminal on the battery holder (source) to a chip with three small contacts and a much larger one. Check for a number on that chip and look it up.
As an example, a 7805CV can accept a maximum of 35 volts and will always put out 5v.
VestedUTuber, Wow, thanks that's actually really helpful - I might have to open one up. To save buying new batteries and/or charging all the time I bought a 9v power supply (nothing fancy like this one) and turned the adjustment pot to it's max which I think was just over 10v... The rechargable pack that Lego sells has 10vdc written on it so I'm not too sure what it's voltage is fully charged (assuming a little over 10v)... Almost bought a 12v supply and dialled it back down as low as it can go - maybe closer to 11v, but thought I'd best play it safe...
3:00 So when you turned it up to 11, it lifts 11 kg. Just thought that was a funny coincidence.