if you notice My first 2 coats I am going really slow. That is because with the extra binder it was really thick. It also took more time to dry those coats. Filled in the sanding scratches amazing. would work easily on 220 scratches.
@@rbrtplly back in the early days we used 320 on metallics and 220 on solids. Never got sanding scratches. The newer materials are thinner than the old stuff. So guys say they get sanding scratches. Using the binder really makes the first 2 coats a little more transparent but fills those in nicely. Binder is cheap on some of these websites. Less than $100. to save you hours of prep.
@@rbrtplly I also used 220 on cheaper jobs back in the day with 2 stage metallics. just a little extra paint and it covered. On cheap acrylic enamel jobs i used 180 with the lines in the paper. the one without the lines would leave scratch. The cheap paper with the lines would not really. That was the $300 pinto job.
it was very cold when I was painting this maybe in the high 50s and all I had was medium hardener and reducer. So that is why I got a few sags and stuff. turned out fine....easy to fix with a razor blade scratching them off, and little color sanding. Check future videos and see how it turns out. need to wait about 3 or 4 days to buff.
Looks great, silver metallic is the worst color after black...not easy getting without scratches showing. Back when I painted cars # 220 was standard for solid colors, only silver and black got the extra treatment with # 400. I enjoyed painting enamel, one flash coat, let it sit for 10 min, a second heavy on until you got a mirror finish, then wait 10 min and final lighter mix with more reducer for the last third coat to really float it out. No cut & buff needed was always my goal. Of course a few run could happen..let the paint dry and use a new razor-blade cut down the run and fine polish...by hand.. Enamel takes time before really dry all the way down without a heated /oven paint-booth. But filled great, very nice shine and cheap back then. Was fun most of the time except painting big army-trucks and caterpillars...so much prep-work, sand blasting, get all grease and crap off...ladders..climbing up and down..paid good money but my body got some issues after doing body-work and paint for 25 years..shoulders, popping knee cap's crawling on cold cement, welding, sanding.. & all the fumes.. bondo-dust, paint, lead-fumes (did show car restorations filled welded panels using lead instead for regular filler / bondo. Many fun memories from my traveling van repairs to small car-lots fixing dents and cheap cheap paint-job's... didn't enjoy the cheap part too much, goes against my quality work standards but sometimes needed to keep the lights on and food on the table. I can tell you have painted a long time seeing this video how you handle the gun and prep-work, good quality I would say. Cheers from Texas. 🤠
I am an old body guy like you, used Centari back in the day. (funny on the video you just said Centari!) Have you heard about using Rustolium with a hardener then putting a real clear on it? It interests me but have not tried it. You thoughts?
I have heard about it but I have never seen the hardener for it. I also dont know if the clears I use will delaminate or wrinkle There are basecoats out there that are around $100 and with that you get less dirt.
if you notice My first 2 coats I am going really slow. That is because with the extra binder it was really thick. It also took more time to dry those coats. Filled in the sanding scratches amazing. would work easily on 220 scratches.
320 guy my self.
@@rbrtplly back in the early days we used 320 on metallics and 220 on solids. Never got sanding scratches. The newer materials are thinner than the old stuff. So guys say they get sanding scratches. Using the binder really makes the first 2 coats a little more transparent but fills those in nicely. Binder is cheap on some of these websites. Less than $100. to save you hours of prep.
@@rbrtplly I also used 220 on cheaper jobs back in the day with 2 stage metallics. just a little extra paint and it covered. On cheap acrylic enamel jobs i used 180 with the lines in the paper. the one without the lines would leave scratch. The cheap paper with the lines would not really. That was the $300 pinto job.
Thank you for doing this video. Painting is my weakness.
Funny thing about paintjobs is that the more you know about the subject the more complicated it gets !
I remember when my parents worked at the Westmoreland Plant in PA and made these. We had 2 of them. Later I upgraded one with a GTI engine.
“Fantastic”, says your neighbor from Mission Grove who drives a 1974 Westfalia!
got to be tough prepping,setting up the booth,painting and filming. we appreciate the education. thanks Mike. cheers go have a cold one.
Looks fantastic! VW trucks are way cool ! Good job Mike.
Looks great Mike, can't wait to see it in the sun.
Looks nice Mike!! although it doesn’t surprise me, you are very good at what you do
it was very cold when I was painting this maybe in the high 50s and all I had was medium hardener and reducer. So that is why I got a few sags and stuff. turned out fine....easy to fix with a razor blade scratching them off, and little color sanding. Check future videos and see how it turns out. need to wait about 3 or 4 days to buff.
Nicework Mike👍🏻🇺🇸,Looks good.Greetings Hubertus.🙏🏻☮🍀
Looks great, silver metallic is the worst color after black...not easy getting without scratches showing. Back when I painted cars # 220 was standard for solid colors, only silver and black got the extra treatment with # 400.
I enjoyed painting enamel, one flash coat, let it sit for 10 min, a second heavy on until you got a mirror finish, then wait 10 min and final lighter mix with more reducer for the last third coat to really float it out. No cut & buff needed was always my goal.
Of course a few run could happen..let the paint dry and use a new razor-blade cut down the run and fine polish...by hand.. Enamel takes time before really dry all the way down without a heated /oven paint-booth.
But filled great, very nice shine and cheap back then.
Was fun most of the time except painting big army-trucks and caterpillars...so much prep-work, sand blasting, get all grease and crap off...ladders..climbing up and down..paid good money but my body got some issues after doing body-work and paint for 25 years..shoulders, popping knee cap's crawling on cold cement, welding, sanding.. & all the fumes.. bondo-dust, paint, lead-fumes (did show car restorations filled welded panels using lead instead for regular filler / bondo.
Many fun memories from my traveling van repairs to small car-lots fixing dents and cheap cheap paint-job's... didn't enjoy the cheap part too much, goes against my quality work standards but sometimes needed to keep the lights on and food on the table.
I can tell you have painted a long time seeing this video how you handle the gun and prep-work, good quality I would say.
Cheers from Texas. 🤠
Excellent video! FYI I'm available Sundays and Mondays ;)
Wait a minute, you worked at Earl Scheib?
I am an old body guy like you, used Centari back in the day. (funny on the video you just said Centari!) Have you heard about using Rustolium with a hardener then putting a real clear on it? It interests me but have not tried it. You thoughts?
I have heard about it but I have never seen the hardener for it. I also dont know if the clears I use will delaminate or wrinkle There are basecoats out there that are around $100 and with that you get less dirt.
Looks good are you gonna be selling it?
yea not sure how much yet.