Grab yourselves a kit to have ready for your next project! 🔨 Recommended Tools and Materials: ☑2,3,4,6,8,12 Pin Kit - amzn.to/46siAad ☑ 2 Pin, 8 Pair Kit - amzn.to/3Fhlr9V ☑ Removal Tool - amzn.to/3rPev0y ☑ Crimper Tool - amzn.to/45viw87 ☑ Mounting Tabs - amzn.to/45vM8SZ ☑ www.amazon.com/shop/caraudiofabrication As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
If you really want to give yourself a challenge, try messing with an 80 pin ECM connector that is corroded because heat got to the seals causing them to swell up and let water in, or when they are covered in oil. After years as a HD truck mechanic, where these are used extensively, and sometimes excessively, I never thought that I would see them used in this way. That said, I like this idea and may well incorporate it into my build. A word of advice to everyone, including you Mark, if you use those little mounts, go easy while connecting and disconnecting them. They are brittle and it doesn’t take much for the tabs to break. A REALLY good place to use these is on the wiring for any external lighting that is being installed. A lot of the pre-made light bar and fog light harnesses use them already. But if you are like me and build your own harnesses, switch and relay panels, distribution panels, they make for a very clean and mostly weather proof install.
That constant thermal cycling under the hood of cars wreaks havoc on plastics and seals, like you said. I would hope they can develop some better polymers to combat this problem.
@@Grizzleback07 I would like to see that myself. I guess on a positive note, most connections like this for an audio system would be inside the car instead of under the hood, and even then they hold up for a good while.
@@E.H.O speaker wires do not draw that much current especially tweeters and depends on how long the runs are. I’m curious of whether the voltage drop across the connections are different in average, but that is based on the skill level of the installer. I didn’t enjoy soldering 16 gauge wires and sometimes melting the terminals. I’d rather crimp and save time.
I am working on a new build and I recall seeing this in my feed after you uploaded it. At the time, my current system was done, but now that I am getting ready to tackle the new system, these connectors and tools will prove to be very helpful for the new install and provide extreme reliability! THANK YOU SIR MARK!
I'm in the heavy equipment industry, and this is basically the only style of connection that is used across the board. And I mean all the OEMs are using it. Hitachi, CAT Liebherr Kawasaki, and many more. The weather proofing is the most advantageous of this style, as these machines work in some of the worst ever conditions. Dust, rain mud, heat, cold. The only disadvantage for me is the cost, and when they were buried in dust and mud for long, it can be a pain to disconnect. You even get round 21, 31 and 36 pin connectors.
So these are the DT series connectors and rated for up to 15A. There is also the DTP series that are rated up to 25A which are more commonly used for lightbars and driving lights. Given the costs of these plugs, I would use use them anywhere they wound be exposed to the external environment, ie; inside doors, but for internal use I would recommend using the connectors that utilise the male and female blade terminals. However if space is a determining factor, the Deutsch plugs in a 4 or more pin combination will be way more compact and, imho, much neater and more professional looking. That's my 2c for those who never asked for it. But great video and very informative. 👍
Hey Mark! In 1986, I sat in my big cousin's Chevy LUV that had two 10s behind the seat and listened to the License to Ill album. Ever since then, I've had a LUV for car audio. Now, at 46 years old, I'm working on building my dream system. Only this time, I'm doing it right. After years of making mistakes and half-assing it, I found what I've been looking for... The School of Mark. ...Another great video, by the way. Your tutorials are priceless. Thank you. I've learned so much. I hope your sponsors pay you well, because I have bought several of their products because of you. I've even adapted some of your knowledge to my daily life. I work as an installer in the pro audio-video-lighting-accoustics industry on the central coast of CA. It's close but very different from car audio. However, some products and techniques have, day to day, helped to make me look like a superstar within my industry. Someday, I hope to have a sweet workshop like yours and expand my portfolio to include pro car audio installation as well. Until then, watching your videos and living vicariously will have to do. Please keep making these videos. No one is doing them better. I look forward to seeing more content. I might have missed it, but could you do a video about tuning your amps with an oscilloscope include something about how to use a good multimeter to roughly get it close. Another good video would be a tour of your shop and all the most common tools you use and what someone would need to start building their own dream fabrication workshop. Thanks again, Teach! Keep up the good work!
This is EXACTLY what I was looking for! Thank you! I will use it to make my amp rack as "quick disconnect" as possible. I can easily mount the connector onto the rack and pull it off whenever needed. I need 6 per side so 12 total and they have plenty of room for that. I may get 2 for the subwoofer wiring as well but I think I'm using 12 AWG for the subs so I'll need to size up. 1 will be at the rack and the other will be on the sub box for quick removal of the sub box if needed. That could come in handy later.
As always, great explanation. Was just looking at them and wasn't sure how they worked and now I know. One thing to note that the 16 size works for 14AWG, 16AWG and 18AWG so no need for anything bigger for speakers, but for sub probably will need a different size
You released this video just in time because I just bought a pin kit to use this in my son's car last week. I have to tap into the existing wiring harness in order to install a LOC and use the existing wires for the speakers.
Deutsch connectors are popular for use in club level motorsports. Really awesome connectors and I use them all the time for all kinds of electrical projects Automotive, Audio, or anything!
I already use these things for EVERYTHING, lol. They can be pricey but they are totally worth it. There are also FLANGED versions that can be used like a firewall connection such as being mounted through an amp board. You mount the flanged connector, which is the female receptacle, to the board and then have a nice harness coming out of it to then connect to your amp or DSP. Can be used for speaker connections or even custom RCA’s. Power for an amplifier is a bit more complex though but they do have the Deutsche HD connectors as well which I’ve seen those as big as 6AWG pins. Those are usually single-pin connections though. But, doing something like that would eliminate having to run the wiring through holes in the board and then having to put trim pieces to keep it looking nice. The same concept however can be used with the little mounting brackets in a surface mount style install where the wiring is exposed. I will also say that the 8-pin connections use a DIFFERENT mounting clip than the rest. Not a big deal, just be aware of it. You can also STACK multiple connectors onto the same mounting clip because most of the female receptacles have both male and female mounting groves in them to link more than one to each other. But these are awesome. However, I personally like the OPEN style of pins instead because they offer some stress relief to the conductor connection since they have the tabs that crimp onto the insulation itself. I’ve had the closed ones have wires get pulled out of them in the past which is why I switched. I also have special crimpers for that style of crimp as well. They literally look like they were factory crimped when I use them. The possibilities of using these is endless. One of the best custom wiring products ever made. Yeah, you could use Molex, but those don’t look nearly as professional as these do. There are also several sites out there that sell OEM-type connectors for whatever vehicle you have to make it look even more factory, but those are usually purchased per-connector and can get very pricey, even more so than these. But if you combine some nice heat shrink and wire loom with these, the custom harnesses you can make with them are downright beautiful.
these kits are great. back in teh day i would go to salvage yards and pickup pigtailed harnesses for pennies. id normaly solder them up for use wherever. mac sells a 3 piece (wheel style) pinning tool kit for like 40 bucks, its the best kit for the money that ive found and it covers pretty much everything.
El debe ser uno de los mejores Audio Car Instalelrs, siempre da informcaion y links, ojala existiera mas gente asi, se aprende mucho con este canal Gracias
I use those for years best connectors ever DTP is for more amps. Just make sure that you make these connection close to the receiving end of the power.
My Deutsch connectors comes from IWISS store too, I first started using these within camper van conversions for 97% of 12v applications. They are so reliable and expandable if need be. Although I think it’s time I invested in a better quality pair of crimpers
I just did a system on a Kabota Sidekick where I had to make the plug for the RF marine unit I installed. I absolutely love these plugs. Once you learn how to use them they are a piece of cake!
I have been watching your videos for a few years now and I absolutely love your videos, you have been a huge help in perfecting my sound systems, I’m in the middle of planning a new system. would you ever consider doing a video on “rear fills” and creating a sound stage. I would love to hear your opinions on these topics.
Kinda off topic: My uncle is a 40 year (certified) mechanic. I asked for his help on my car once. It had an electrical problem located in the main wiring harness under the hood. He said, you have 2 options: buy a complete harness for about $400.⁰⁰ or fix the factory wire connector. This was kind of intimidating at first glance, but when he showed me how to get the wires out of the plastic connector, I was floored. (I can't tell you how many connectors I've cut off and taped another one in place lol).
I love this. I was going to use those solder on 2 pin connectors from the hobby store to build a wiring harness for lighting accessories for my truck and motorcycle but this would make it so much easier. Especially with fog light pairs. I would use the doubles for each fog light and then another double or quad to pair them up for the longer runs
If your going to use Deutsch connectors to your car audio projects, add about 10% of your total project cost to compensate for the cost of these great connectors
I installed the yellow ones when the first video came out a few years ago. Later on i bought a audio control 5-1300 and had it installed by a shop to retain the 5 year warrenty. Lol, the shop made me cut out the yellow speaker connectors saying it added far too much resistance to the system. This was Cartronics in north miami beach. All so they could run their own wire. Goodness, I wish knew back then what i know now
Amphenol SINE makes those type conectors as well, found them on mouser. In the 18 pin version, there is a bulkhead version of the female one. I am using that one for wiring pass through to the cab, from the engine compartment. This is for a gauge read out diplay, to monitor the vitals of a mecanical diesel.
These are used on earthmoving equipment too, where I've been using them since 1994. Very good connectors! I've been told that Amphenol bought(?) the design, or maybe bought Deutsch?... but they've been coming from Amphenol instead of Deutsch for some time. The miniature version, the ATM series, saves a bit of space and probably carries plenty of current for audio use. I get my parts from Digi-key, but Mouser is good too. Both have links to the Amphenol literature so folks can learn all about the parts and how to use them.
When I installed an aftermarket tail light on my motorcycle I didn't want to cut into the factory wiring, so I sourced the factory connector that Kawasaki used for the tail light. Turned out to be cheaper to buy a box of them on Amazon than to buy a single connector anywhere. So when I installed the head unit in my car and discovered that a previous owner had chopped off the factory connector, I decided to just make use of the pile of connectors I had sitting in the closet. They weren't the nice Deutsch style connectors, but it did mean that there was no ugly electrical taped wire splice rats nest under the dash :)
Used those when I installed my digital dash in my 86 IROC. Tried replacing the bulbs in OEM gauges, but still was too dim for my old eyes, so I replaced OEM with digital gauges and used those clips for all the wire connections. Worked perfectly, and the OEM gauges are safely packed away for the time I decide to sell the car, if ever.
I just used some molex mini fit connectors on speed wire. Weather pack could be used as well and are easy to work with. Deutsch connectors are nice as well.
Thank you for posting this! I am preparing an audio setup and am grateful to have found your video. Would you say it makes a difference or not by putting the male pins in the female plug and the female in the male? This isn't a connection I see myself disconnecting on a regular basis. Thanks much!
Have you used any other plug style? I generally use MINI-FIT for interior work. Many amps use them as well so it is nice to have some around. Deutsch connectors are great when doing something that needs a more weatherproof connector. Not crapping on your choice because they are a great option, just interested in an opinion.
Deutsch barrels are much easier to crimp. Just adjust the barrel so it sits flush with the surface of the tool and insert your wire. After that, just plop the pin/socket in and insert your wire, no fiddling with orientation. It makes your workflow much quicker and easier when doing wires harnesses with lots of wires. I know, because I've crimped thousands of wires using deutsch, weatherpack and molex. Except at work, I have the expensive $500 deutsch crimper and $200 weatherpack crimper and $400 molex mini fit crimp tool. If you want to buy a tool for crimping Deutsch at home, I recommend the nicer version of the Iwiss tool in this video he's using, the iCrimp HD-2612D which is very similiar to the OEM grade deutsch crimper I use at work. The adjustment for the wire guage(amount of indentation) is much quicker.
I personally don’t think I’d ever use them. At least on my own car, maybe on a friends car for their convenience. Personally I’ve invested a good amount of time into my system, I’m already committed to the connections that I like to use. If I have to remove a panel that I know I’ll be messing with any of my own wiring, I’m already prepared to deal with it the same way I have for a long time. I personally would probably use this style maybe behind the head unit for any connections, make it look a little more professional and convenient. Or even for non audio automotive applications I’d probably use it. ESPECIALLY if it’s outside the cabin of the car, under the car, in the engine bay, etc.
Hi mate, I would use these really make the build more reliable and give a real oem look. Have you ever done a video on a classic car stereo build? Where the stereo system looks original but has bluetooth connectivity and sounds great?
I didn't see it mentioned but the GREEN STRIPE pins/sockets have a thinner wall (larger ID) for 14 guage wire. Non-GreenStripes have a thicker wall(smaller ID) for 16 guage and is especially better for crimping 18 guage wire. You can use green stripe wire for all, but the crimp isn't as optimaal for the best crimp surface area contact and crimp holding, but in the thousands of crimps I've done in my career, using green stripe for 18 guage has never failed me, just theoretically worse. Also, you need to buy a better wire stripper with a depth setting. When using these barrel crimps, it's best to cut the insulation to the exact depth of the copper fitting into the barrel pin/socket. For the style of connector you're using, it's not as much of a problem, but for the round deutsch connectors which require a plastic disposable removal tool you'll understand why when you have to pull those wires out. Stripping too much results in a more flexible and flimsier wire, making it harder to insert and remove. The wire stripper I use at work are the Phoenix Contact WireFox 10. Though my coworker has the Knipex version and he likes those. They're the same design. With either you can cut and strip wires quickly to the exact depth you want. Having that kind of perfect repeatability makes larger harnesses a breeze. Also, Iwiss makes a nicer deutsch crimper for about $130 on Amazon. Worth it because it's easier to adjust for wire guage so the crimp impressions are deeper depending on the wire guage you're using. It's designed to be a knockoff of the OEM Deutsch Crimp tool.
My only issue with these types of connectors is QC. I've used these before and a few have had minor gaps and what not, which cause intermittent connection issue (voltage drops). Not a difficult diagnosis but considering its very tough to see the imperfections sometimes. It tough to recommend them over solder and or crimp connectors.
Got to say the Deutch connection of any type and size surpasses any connection competitors. Gold pin option or standard, makes a professional install availability for even sensitive components
Hey Mark have you considered the molex MX150 series connectors? They are generally made in the 22-18 awg. The do have limited connectors in the 14-16awg connectors. Check em out
So I just installed an older pioneer head unit and dual front door speakers to replace the blown factory equipment this is just a temp set up so it's not screeching at me however my question what would be a recommendation for a system in a 2006 beetle
id rather have the solderable connections for the corrosion prevention of the solder coupled with the fact that you can by sticky zip tie mounts instead of having to mount with a screw for the other type. You can use double sided tape for those, true, but in my experience a solderable type connector is the preferred standard.
I absolutely love learning from your videos. I would love to hear your thoughts on a single setup with both sealed and ported enclosures with one of the enclosures polarity reversed. I don't know a whole lot about this kind of set up, but in my avalanche I can't find/build a set up that sounds better than my 12"ported sub next to my 10" sealed sub (polarity reversed) all that being said, what if I built a T-line box for a single 12 and built into that same box also would be a sealed 10 or possibly to 10's? Am I being stupid at this point, or are these viable thoughts?
Question about apms please I need help :/ I have a mono amp and a 4 channel amp. Do I need to link them to each other with RCAs??? Or can I run them individually?? Individually meaning Mono amp connected by RCAs from my head unit (subwoofer) outputs And my 4 channel amp connected from the other head unit RCA outputs??
I have a easy solution for this.. just mount ur amp away from the sub, that way there is just the speaker cable running to it.. witch makes taking it out super fast.. problem solved!
Grab yourselves a kit to have ready for your next project!
🔨 Recommended Tools and Materials:
☑2,3,4,6,8,12 Pin Kit - amzn.to/46siAad
☑ 2 Pin, 8 Pair Kit - amzn.to/3Fhlr9V
☑ Removal Tool - amzn.to/3rPev0y
☑ Crimper Tool - amzn.to/45viw87
☑ Mounting Tabs - amzn.to/45vM8SZ
☑ www.amazon.com/shop/caraudiofabrication
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
If you really want to give yourself a challenge, try messing with an 80 pin ECM connector that is corroded because heat got to the seals causing them to swell up and let water in, or when they are covered in oil. After years as a HD truck mechanic, where these are used extensively, and sometimes excessively, I never thought that I would see them used in this way. That said, I like this idea and may well incorporate it into my build. A word of advice to everyone, including you Mark, if you use those little mounts, go easy while connecting and disconnecting them. They are brittle and it doesn’t take much for the tabs to break. A REALLY good place to use these is on the wiring for any external lighting that is being installed. A lot of the pre-made light bar and fog light harnesses use them already. But if you are like me and build your own harnesses, switch and relay panels, distribution panels, they make for a very clean and mostly weather proof install.
That constant thermal cycling under the hood of cars wreaks havoc on plastics and seals, like you said. I would hope they can develop some better polymers to combat this problem.
@@Grizzleback07 I would like to see that myself. I guess on a positive note, most connections like this for an audio system would be inside the car instead of under the hood, and even then they hold up for a good while.
Laughs in Caterpillar
@@michaelgeale9345 This guy knows
Now it is time to redo all of my connections, especially. Thanks Mark! - A project is never really done. You learn better and you do better.
@@E.H.O speaker wires do not draw that much current especially tweeters and depends on how long the runs are. I’m curious of whether the voltage drop across the connections are different in average, but that is based on the skill level of the installer. I didn’t enjoy soldering 16 gauge wires and sometimes melting the terminals. I’d rather crimp and save time.
I am working on a new build and I recall seeing this in my feed after you uploaded it. At the time, my current system was done, but now that I am getting ready to tackle the new system, these connectors and tools will prove to be very helpful for the new install and provide extreme reliability! THANK YOU SIR MARK!
I'm in the heavy equipment industry, and this is basically the only style of connection that is used across the board. And I mean all the OEMs are using it. Hitachi, CAT Liebherr Kawasaki, and many more.
The weather proofing is the most advantageous of this style, as these machines work in some of the worst ever conditions. Dust, rain mud, heat, cold. The only disadvantage for me is the cost, and when they were buried in dust and mud for long, it can be a pain to disconnect.
You even get round 21, 31 and 36 pin connectors.
I use an Anderson connector on the back of each of my sub boxes in my dual cab Ute when I need that little extra space. Has worked very well for years
So these are the DT series connectors and rated for up to 15A. There is also the DTP series that are rated up to 25A which are more commonly used for lightbars and driving lights. Given the costs of these plugs, I would use use them anywhere they wound be exposed to the external environment, ie; inside doors, but for internal use I would recommend using the connectors that utilise the male and female blade terminals. However if space is a determining factor, the Deutsch plugs in a 4 or more pin combination will be way more compact and, imho, much neater and more professional looking.
That's my 2c for those who never asked for it.
But great video and very informative. 👍
Hey Mark!
In 1986, I sat in my big cousin's Chevy LUV that had two 10s behind the seat and listened to the License to Ill album. Ever since then, I've had a LUV for car audio. Now, at 46 years old, I'm working on building my dream system. Only this time, I'm doing it right. After years of making mistakes and half-assing it, I found what I've been looking for... The School of Mark.
...Another great video, by the way.
Your tutorials are priceless. Thank you. I've learned so much. I hope your sponsors pay you well, because I have bought several of their products because of you. I've even adapted some of your knowledge to my daily life.
I work as an installer in the pro audio-video-lighting-accoustics industry on the central coast of CA. It's close but very different from car audio. However, some products and techniques have, day to day, helped to make me look like a superstar within my industry.
Someday, I hope to have a sweet workshop like yours and expand my portfolio to include pro car audio installation as well. Until then, watching your videos and living vicariously will have to do.
Please keep making these videos. No one is doing them better. I look forward to seeing more content. I might have missed it, but could you do a video about tuning your amps with an oscilloscope include something about how to use a good multimeter to roughly get it close.
Another good video would be a tour of your shop and all the most common tools you use and what someone would need to start building their own dream fabrication workshop.
Thanks again, Teach!
Keep up the good work!
This is EXACTLY what I was looking for! Thank you! I will use it to make my amp rack as "quick disconnect" as possible. I can easily mount the connector onto the rack and pull it off whenever needed. I need 6 per side so 12 total and they have plenty of room for that. I may get 2 for the subwoofer wiring as well but I think I'm using 12 AWG for the subs so I'll need to size up. 1 will be at the rack and the other will be on the sub box for quick removal of the sub box if needed. That could come in handy later.
Love the details and “how to do” tips and tricks. Always helps me learn how to extend the scope of the tasks that I will attempt. Thanks, Mark,
As always, great explanation. Was just looking at them and wasn't sure how they worked and now I know. One thing to note that the 16 size works for 14AWG, 16AWG and 18AWG so no need for anything bigger for speakers, but for sub probably will need a different size
You released this video just in time because I just bought a pin kit to use this in my son's car last week. I have to tap into the existing wiring harness in order to install a LOC and use the existing wires for the speakers.
Deutsch connectors are popular for use in club level motorsports. Really awesome connectors and I use them all the time for all kinds of electrical projects Automotive, Audio, or anything!
I use these connectors almost every day. Best you can get…
Great option! I’ve been trying to avoid any soldering from now on and these connectors will do the job. Thank you for the video
I already use these things for EVERYTHING, lol. They can be pricey but they are totally worth it. There are also FLANGED versions that can be used like a firewall connection such as being mounted through an amp board. You mount the flanged connector, which is the female receptacle, to the board and then have a nice harness coming out of it to then connect to your amp or DSP. Can be used for speaker connections or even custom RCA’s. Power for an amplifier is a bit more complex though but they do have the Deutsche HD connectors as well which I’ve seen those as big as 6AWG pins. Those are usually single-pin connections though. But, doing something like that would eliminate having to run the wiring through holes in the board and then having to put trim pieces to keep it looking nice. The same concept however can be used with the little mounting brackets in a surface mount style install where the wiring is exposed. I will also say that the 8-pin connections use a DIFFERENT mounting clip than the rest. Not a big deal, just be aware of it. You can also STACK multiple connectors onto the same mounting clip because most of the female receptacles have both male and female mounting groves in them to link more than one to each other. But these are awesome.
However, I personally like the OPEN style of pins instead because they offer some stress relief to the conductor connection since they have the tabs that crimp onto the insulation itself. I’ve had the closed ones have wires get pulled out of them in the past which is why I switched. I also have special crimpers for that style of crimp as well. They literally look like they were factory crimped when I use them. The possibilities of using these is endless. One of the best custom wiring products ever made. Yeah, you could use Molex, but those don’t look nearly as professional as these do. There are also several sites out there that sell OEM-type connectors for whatever vehicle you have to make it look even more factory, but those are usually purchased per-connector and can get very pricey, even more so than these. But if you combine some nice heat shrink and wire loom with these, the custom harnesses you can make with them are downright beautiful.
these kits are great. back in teh day i would go to salvage yards and pickup pigtailed harnesses for pennies. id normaly solder them up for use wherever. mac sells a 3 piece (wheel style) pinning tool kit for like 40 bucks, its the best kit for the money that ive found and it covers pretty much everything.
I have been using those for years now. Great content.
El debe ser uno de los mejores Audio Car Instalelrs, siempre da informcaion y links, ojala existiera mas gente asi, se aprende mucho con este canal
Gracias
I use those for years best connectors ever DTP is for more amps. Just make sure that you make these connection close to the receiving end of the power.
These would be great to make a harness for connecting your DSP to both ends of the factory wires.
You are worthy of the like button !
My Deutsch connectors comes from IWISS store too, I first started using these within camper van conversions for 97% of 12v applications. They are so reliable and expandable if need be. Although I think it’s time I invested in a better quality pair of crimpers
Thought I was the only one using these in car audio!
I think I'm going to check these out! Thanks Mark as usual!
I just did a system on a Kabota Sidekick where I had to make the plug for the RF marine unit I installed. I absolutely love these plugs. Once you learn how to use them they are a piece of cake!
I have been watching your videos for a few years now and I absolutely love your videos, you have been a huge help in perfecting my sound systems, I’m in the middle of planning a new system. would you ever consider doing a video on “rear fills” and creating a sound stage. I would love to hear your opinions on these topics.
Thanks for watching! Yes perhaps a good video for the future!
I ordered 2 kits as I’m doing a caravan rewire and now I’ve got another use for them to do my audio system
Kinda off topic: My uncle is a 40 year (certified) mechanic. I asked for his help on my car once. It had an electrical problem located in the main wiring harness under the hood. He said, you have 2 options: buy a complete harness for about $400.⁰⁰ or fix the factory wire connector. This was kind of intimidating at first glance, but when he showed me how to get the wires out of the plastic connector, I was floored. (I can't tell you how many connectors I've cut off and taped another one in place lol).
Uhhh yeah. These are awesome. I cannot confirm or deny that I have already ordered some.
I love this. I was going to use those solder on 2 pin connectors from the hobby store to build a wiring harness for lighting accessories for my truck and motorcycle but this would make it so much easier. Especially with fog light pairs. I would use the doubles for each fog light and then another double or quad to pair them up for the longer runs
If your going to use Deutsch connectors to your car audio projects, add about 10% of your total project cost to compensate for the cost of these great connectors
I installed the yellow ones when the first video came out a few years ago. Later on i bought a audio control 5-1300 and had it installed by a shop to retain the 5 year warrenty. Lol, the shop made me cut out the yellow speaker connectors saying it added far too much resistance to the system. This was Cartronics in north miami beach. All so they could run their own wire. Goodness, I wish knew back then what i know now
Amphenol SINE makes those type conectors as well, found them on mouser. In the 18 pin version, there is a bulkhead version of the female one. I am using that one for wiring pass through to the cab, from the engine compartment. This is for a gauge read out diplay, to monitor the vitals of a mecanical diesel.
These are used on earthmoving equipment too, where I've been using them since 1994. Very good connectors! I've been told that Amphenol bought(?) the design, or maybe bought Deutsch?... but they've been coming from Amphenol instead of Deutsch for some time. The miniature version, the ATM series, saves a bit of space and probably carries plenty of current for audio use. I get my parts from Digi-key, but Mouser is good too. Both have links to the Amphenol literature so folks can learn all about the parts and how to use them.
I definitely will be using these types of connectors
When I installed an aftermarket tail light on my motorcycle I didn't want to cut into the factory wiring, so I sourced the factory connector that Kawasaki used for the tail light. Turned out to be cheaper to buy a box of them on Amazon than to buy a single connector anywhere. So when I installed the head unit in my car and discovered that a previous owner had chopped off the factory connector, I decided to just make use of the pile of connectors I had sitting in the closet. They weren't the nice Deutsch style connectors, but it did mean that there was no ugly electrical taped wire splice rats nest under the dash :)
Used those when I installed my digital dash in my 86 IROC. Tried replacing the bulbs in OEM gauges, but still was too dim for my old eyes, so I replaced OEM with digital gauges and used those clips for all the wire connections. Worked perfectly, and the OEM gauges are safely packed away for the time I decide to sell the car, if ever.
I just used some molex mini fit connectors on speed wire. Weather pack could be used as well and are easy to work with. Deutsch connectors are nice as well.
I love the connecters, but ill probably stick to xt60 connecters for now. but great trick to keep in my back pocket!
YES, these are great connectors
Definitely need this for my tweeters
Awesome, just what I needed. Any reason to open up my perfectly functioning install to create custom harnesses 😂
Highly recommend to order spare pins. Mistakes happen and you don't want to put a project on hold for a week waiting on more pins.
I needed these two months ago. When I was installing a JBL basshub. It would be easier to switch out subwoofers.
Thank you for posting this! I am preparing an audio setup and am grateful to have found your video. Would you say it makes a difference or not by putting the male pins in the female plug and the female in the male? This isn't a connection I see myself disconnecting on a regular basis. Thanks much!
A quick removal amp rack is the ideal use for those
Great video as usual!
Have you used any other plug style? I generally use MINI-FIT for interior work. Many amps use them as well so it is nice to have some around. Deutsch connectors are great when doing something that needs a more weatherproof connector. Not crapping on your choice because they are a great option, just interested in an opinion.
Deutsch barrels are much easier to crimp. Just adjust the barrel so it sits flush with the surface of the tool and insert your wire. After that, just plop the pin/socket in and insert your wire, no fiddling with orientation. It makes your workflow much quicker and easier when doing wires harnesses with lots of wires. I know, because I've crimped thousands of wires using deutsch, weatherpack and molex. Except at work, I have the expensive $500 deutsch crimper and $200 weatherpack crimper and $400 molex mini fit crimp tool. If you want to buy a tool for crimping Deutsch at home, I recommend the nicer version of the Iwiss tool in this video he's using, the iCrimp HD-2612D which is very similiar to the OEM grade deutsch crimper I use at work. The adjustment for the wire guage(amount of indentation) is much quicker.
I personally don’t think I’d ever use them. At least on my own car, maybe on a friends car for their convenience. Personally I’ve invested a good amount of time into my system, I’m already committed to the connections that I like to use. If I have to remove a panel that I know I’ll be messing with any of my own wiring, I’m already prepared to deal with it the same way I have for a long time. I personally would probably use this style maybe behind the head unit for any connections, make it look a little more professional and convenient. Or even for non audio automotive applications I’d probably use it. ESPECIALLY if it’s outside the cabin of the car, under the car, in the engine bay, etc.
These are great for marine use.
Hi mate, I would use these really make the build more reliable and give a real oem look. Have you ever done a video on a classic car stereo build? Where the stereo system looks original but has bluetooth connectivity and sounds great?
Great video Mark what brand is the primary speaker wire on your desk in this video?
That's all we use at the offroad shop I work at
I didn't see it mentioned but the GREEN STRIPE pins/sockets have a thinner wall (larger ID) for 14 guage wire. Non-GreenStripes have a thicker wall(smaller ID) for 16 guage and is especially better for crimping 18 guage wire. You can use green stripe wire for all, but the crimp isn't as optimaal for the best crimp surface area contact and crimp holding, but in the thousands of crimps I've done in my career, using green stripe for 18 guage has never failed me, just theoretically worse.
Also, you need to buy a better wire stripper with a depth setting. When using these barrel crimps, it's best to cut the insulation to the exact depth of the copper fitting into the barrel pin/socket. For the style of connector you're using, it's not as much of a problem, but for the round deutsch connectors which require a plastic disposable removal tool you'll understand why when you have to pull those wires out. Stripping too much results in a more flexible and flimsier wire, making it harder to insert and remove. The wire stripper I use at work are the Phoenix Contact WireFox 10. Though my coworker has the Knipex version and he likes those. They're the same design. With either you can cut and strip wires quickly to the exact depth you want. Having that kind of perfect repeatability makes larger harnesses a breeze.
Also, Iwiss makes a nicer deutsch crimper for about $130 on Amazon. Worth it because it's easier to adjust for wire guage so the crimp impressions are deeper depending on the wire guage you're using. It's designed to be a knockoff of the OEM Deutsch Crimp tool.
Damn, I sure be using it on my next build
My only issue with these types of connectors is QC. I've used these before and a few have had minor gaps and what not, which cause intermittent connection issue (voltage drops). Not a difficult diagnosis but considering its very tough to see the imperfections sometimes. It tough to recommend them over solder and or crimp connectors.
I was hesitant at first i need to investigate it but i think moisture in the door is why my woofer go out on rainy days thia couls be a good solution
Dude! I’m in the process of doing this using Molex. I love the Deutsch style tho. Also can you post the link to those wire spools!!! 😍
Got to say the Deutch connection of any type and size surpasses any connection competitors. Gold pin option or standard, makes a professional install availability for even sensitive components
Yes, I get that feeling as well, these are much more professional and solid and seem more designed for our application vs some of the other solutions.
@@CarAudioFabrication I have used them for my personal systems for over 5 years, Where I could atleast. Great for motorcycles as well too.
Hey Mark have you considered the molex MX150 series connectors? They are generally made in the 22-18 awg.
The do have limited connectors in the 14-16awg connectors.
Check em out
So what is a good quick disconnect for a 4 AWG? For a motorcycle amplifier?
I have a question for you, what type of connector would you use to join to wire into 1 connection?
So I just installed an older pioneer head unit and dual front door speakers to replace the blown factory equipment this is just a temp set up so it's not screeching at me however my question what would be a recommendation for a system in a 2006 beetle
My old speakers had 4 cables. Can I use this to connect 4 cables to the new speaker that only have 2 connections.
id rather have the solderable connections for the corrosion prevention of the solder coupled with the fact that you can by sticky zip tie mounts instead of having to mount with a screw for the other type. You can use double sided tape for those, true, but in my experience a solderable type connector is the preferred standard.
I absolutely love learning from your videos. I would love to hear your thoughts on a single setup with both sealed and ported enclosures with one of the enclosures polarity reversed. I don't know a whole lot about this kind of set up, but in my avalanche I can't find/build a set up that sounds better than my 12"ported sub next to my 10" sealed sub (polarity reversed) all that being said, what if I built a T-line box for a single 12 and built into that same box also would be a sealed 10 or possibly to 10's? Am I being stupid at this point, or are these viable thoughts?
any easy way to have connectors with 5 speakers wired in parallel?
Question about apms please I need help :/
I have a mono amp and a 4 channel amp. Do I need to link them to each other with RCAs??? Or can I run them individually??
Individually meaning
Mono amp connected by RCAs from my head unit (subwoofer) outputs
And my 4 channel amp connected from the other head unit RCA outputs??
Amp rack!
I have a easy solution for this.. just mount ur amp away from the sub, that way there is just the speaker cable running to it.. witch makes taking it out super fast.. problem solved!
Mark…. The brand/link of wire spools 🧵 please!😢