Check out my most recent video: goo.gl/Jj7cU1 The abilities of air, saw blade wax, and WD/40 to improve the surface finish on a DW872 cold cut saw are tested. Not only does the surface finish improve, but so does the cut rate. The manual does not recommend lubricant, so use caution, stay alert, and be safe.
+D. Slater Evolution sent me one of their Rage 2 saws. I'll be reviewing it shortly. Might be a good option that saves some cash. Thank you for commenting
Thanks for posting this. Just this afternoon I drove 110 miles each way to, among other things, talk to my sharpening service about lubrication for a carbide tipped cold saw. We had a discussion but came to no conclusions. Have you done a similar test cutting steel?
Aluminum tends to gum in the space between the teeth, eventually packing the space entirely preventing chips, if produced any longer, from being carried away. The blade then rubs, the aluminum heats up and the problem is worsen. Do want is needed to keep the packing from happening. This challenge does not exist with steel and cuts cleanly. I'd not bother with lubrication with steel and avoid the mess. One more suggestion regarding thick aluminum, consider cutting a little and backing off just a little too let everything cool, and repeating. I've found this helps a lot to leave a straight and clean cut. Hope this helps. Let me know what you decide.
I bought a carbide Al blade and have only made a couple of light cuts in soft stuff with no lube but I'll try WD-40 next cut. I've ruined two carbide blades trying to cut mild steel... fractured a bunch of teeth and the sharpening shop I've dealt with for 15 years says pitch it. I've got a Portaband but that's another thing altogether. I really need to get the maximum performance out of that saw. I'll try the WD-40 0n steel, too, until I learn better.
Wow, I've not had that happen. Those blades are expensive so I feel the pain. The only time I had similar problems was when using a HF compound miter saw to cut aluminum plate. Worked awesome, but without great clamping the teeth would slowly breakoff. I only cut solid stock, up to a little more than max size, and occasionally DIN rail and 8020 like extrusions. I hope you figure it out.
Something different, i use a 12" band-saw, but also notice a huge improvement when using wax. (i just use paraffin from candles though) It also helps to put it on when the blade is warm so it melts onto the surface of the blade. It also helps to prevent gumming up with poor grade aluminum (but i guess that's not an issue with the larger carbide tips on your saw). How do you like that de Walt? is it stable enough to cut aluminium profiles for a true fit? (perfect 90 degrees)?
Hi Rene. I've not had aluminum gum up on the teeth on this saw, but did on the previous sliding compound miter saw, which probably turned faster. The DeWalt is nice, one my favorite tools, but the base and clamping system are not great. However, the main part of the saw is easily removed and one could bolt it to a new base with a nice vise. I'll try cutting extrusions and post a few pictures for you.
I guess the lower RPM's are helping, indeed. The base is from stamped sheet-metal? I found one locally (from a distributor who has got connections in China) with a casted base. I don't know if the sheetmetal makes it unstable though, perhaps it's stable enough. It's nice and compact, that's what i like about it.
This base is indeed stamped sheet metal. As a consequence, there are little high spots that work against staying perpendicular with the blade. A cast base is certainly intriguing. Does that base have a better vise as well? With mine, the "fixed" plate of the vise has a tendency to pivot. The moving vise plate is angled, but I think that's to better hold tubing and other stock from lifting. The size and ability to cut aluminum and steel are what brought me to the saw. I have a small workshop and each tool must have multiple purposes. :)
I put a few photos at following links. The results were better than expected. The edge on 30mm square material was clean, far better than on a bandsaw. I didn't make any extra attempt to square the fence to the blade. This is already better than I would probably need. I didn't see any light coming around a square. Hope this helps. instagram.com/p/BPLgBO_g1YR/ instagram.com/p/BPLgc92gNFr/ instagram.com/p/BPLhQVkgvXt/
Could help. While harder to do, I suspect the biggest improvement for blade life would come from securing the stock better than a cutoff saw normally does. Just guessing, but I bet that vibrating and pinching of the teeth on the blade do a decent amount of damage. Beyond that, overfeeding might be pretty common too. Thank you
Hi Jerry, I enjoy your videos, good hard work, you picked up a new subscriber. I'm using the standard DeWalt blades. I still have the original plus a spare for when one is being sharpened. I take the blades to a wood working store, which sends them out to be sharpened, a bargain at $25 + $2 per replaced tooth. The second blade came form Amazon and was not cheap. I also have tried the Evolution Rage2 and Evo380 saws. I like the Evo380 the best of the three, which can use a slightly larger blade, but it's hard to find. I've used Freud aluminum cutting blades on a compound miter and they worked well too, but I had loss of blade teeth with that combination. Hope this helped. Best wishes
@@kentvanderveldenThank's Kent. Much appreciated. I'll will sub back. I recently picked up a dewalt chop saw d28715. And wanted to change out the blade for a steel one like yours. What should I search on Amazon for the right blade? Thank you for your reply.
@@MRreptile13 Search Amazon for B0000302QT or DWA7747. The D28715 probably rotates around 4000RPM but the max speed listed on the DWA7747 is 1800RPM. I probably had the blade teeth lose on the miter saw is because I was running the blade fast.
I've been using the Evo380 and like it the best of the chopsaws I've tried. However, if I had the space I would have a horizontal bandsaw. I used to have one of the larger Harbor Freight bandsaws it was pretty nice and there was less material waste.
Wells done video, I have used both the DeWalt metal cutting chopsaw, DeWalt woodcutting chopsaw, and own an Evolution 380...blades are important, even a spritz of water helps when cutting aluminum to reduce eliminate clogged teeth. Best regards, Paul
If you want to make a clean near-machined finish on any kind of metal, you're going to need a coolant bathed Baileigh cold saw or similar. Dry cut saws are a different combination of cut quality, cost, and practicality.
WD 40 is an excellent cutting,milling, drilling, turning fluid for aluminum. It is similar to kerosene which has been used for many years in days if old for aluminum... biggest issue us the residue. WD 40 is mineral spirits and mineral oil.
Check out my most recent video: goo.gl/Jj7cU1
The abilities of air, saw blade wax, and WD/40 to improve the surface finish on a DW872 cold cut saw are tested. Not only does the surface finish improve, but so does the cut rate. The manual does not recommend lubricant, so use caution, stay alert, and be safe.
I normally cut with my powerplasma cutter but I really want to buy a cold cut saw soon for straight stock cuts. This was a very informative video.
+D. Slater Evolution sent me one of their Rage 2 saws. I'll be reviewing it shortly. Might be a good option that saves some cash. Thank you for commenting
Can I use WD 40 on my table saw motor .. it's very noisy and I thought to use a lubricant to make it softer!
3&1 oil
WD 40 is a poor lube, it will gum up. Stick with oil.
Thanks for posting this. Just this afternoon I drove 110 miles each way to, among other things, talk to my sharpening service about lubrication for a carbide tipped cold saw. We had a discussion but came to no conclusions. Have you done a similar test cutting steel?
Aluminum tends to gum in the space between the teeth, eventually packing the space entirely preventing chips, if produced any longer, from being carried away. The blade then rubs, the aluminum heats up and the problem is worsen. Do want is needed to keep the packing from happening. This challenge does not exist with steel and cuts cleanly. I'd not bother with lubrication with steel and avoid the mess. One more suggestion regarding thick aluminum, consider cutting a little and backing off just a little too let everything cool, and repeating. I've found this helps a lot to leave a straight and clean cut. Hope this helps. Let me know what you decide.
I bought a carbide Al blade and have only made a couple of light cuts in soft stuff with no lube but I'll try WD-40 next cut. I've ruined two carbide blades trying to cut mild steel... fractured a bunch of teeth and the sharpening shop I've dealt with for 15 years says pitch it. I've got a Portaband but that's another thing altogether. I really need to get the maximum performance out of that saw. I'll try the WD-40 0n steel, too, until I learn better.
Wow, I've not had that happen. Those blades are expensive so I feel the pain. The only time I had similar problems was when using a HF compound miter saw to cut aluminum plate. Worked awesome, but without great clamping the teeth would slowly breakoff. I only cut solid stock, up to a little more than max size, and occasionally DIN rail and 8020 like extrusions. I hope you figure it out.
How many rpm were you cutting steel. And what size blade,chip profile, and rake.
Something different, i use a 12" band-saw, but also notice a huge improvement when using wax. (i just use paraffin from candles though) It also helps to put it on when the blade is warm so it melts onto the surface of the blade. It also helps to prevent gumming up with poor grade aluminum (but i guess that's not an issue with the larger carbide tips on your saw). How do you like that de Walt? is it stable enough to cut aluminium profiles for a true fit? (perfect 90 degrees)?
Hi Rene. I've not had aluminum gum up on the teeth on this saw, but did on the previous sliding compound miter saw, which probably turned faster. The DeWalt is nice, one my favorite tools, but the base and clamping system are not great. However, the main part of the saw is easily removed and one could bolt it to a new base with a nice vise. I'll try cutting extrusions and post a few pictures for you.
I guess the lower RPM's are helping, indeed. The base is from stamped sheet-metal? I found one locally (from a distributor who has got connections in China) with a casted base. I don't know if the sheetmetal makes it unstable though, perhaps it's stable enough. It's nice and compact, that's what i like about it.
This base is indeed stamped sheet metal. As a consequence, there are little high spots that work against staying perpendicular with the blade. A cast base is certainly intriguing. Does that base have a better vise as well? With mine, the "fixed" plate of the vise has a tendency to pivot. The moving vise plate is angled, but I think that's to better hold tubing and other stock from lifting. The size and ability to cut aluminum and steel are what brought me to the saw. I have a small workshop and each tool must have multiple purposes. :)
I put a few photos at following links. The results were better than expected. The edge on 30mm square material was clean, far better than on a bandsaw. I didn't make any extra attempt to square the fence to the blade. This is already better than I would probably need. I didn't see any light coming around a square. Hope this helps.
instagram.com/p/BPLgBO_g1YR/
instagram.com/p/BPLgc92gNFr/
instagram.com/p/BPLhQVkgvXt/
Hi, do you think just addind cutting oil can help preserve for better life blade?
Wish to see a video with automatic dispenser one day :)
Could help. While harder to do, I suspect the biggest improvement for blade life would come from securing the stock better than a cutoff saw normally does. Just guessing, but I bet that vibrating and pinching of the teeth on the blade do a decent amount of damage. Beyond that, overfeeding might be pretty common too. Thank you
very helpful video! thank you
What blade are you using?? Where did you get it?
Hi Jerry, I enjoy your videos, good hard work, you picked up a new subscriber. I'm using the standard DeWalt blades. I still have the original plus a spare for when one is being sharpened. I take the blades to a wood working store, which sends them out to be sharpened, a bargain at $25 + $2 per replaced tooth. The second blade came form Amazon and was not cheap. I also have tried the Evolution Rage2 and Evo380 saws. I like the Evo380 the best of the three, which can use a slightly larger blade, but it's hard to find. I've used Freud aluminum cutting blades on a compound miter and they worked well too, but I had loss of blade teeth with that combination. Hope this helped. Best wishes
@@kentvanderveldenThank's Kent. Much appreciated. I'll will sub back. I recently picked up a dewalt chop saw d28715. And wanted to change out the blade for a steel one like yours. What should I search on Amazon for the right blade? Thank you for your reply.
@@MRreptile13 Search Amazon for B0000302QT or DWA7747. The D28715 probably rotates around 4000RPM but the max speed listed on the DWA7747 is 1800RPM. I probably had the blade teeth lose on the miter saw is because I was running the blade fast.
Thanks for the video. Solid aluminium and this saw is a disaster. I'm yet to find a satisfactory blade/solution.
I've been using the Evo380 and like it the best of the chopsaws I've tried. However, if I had the space I would have a horizontal bandsaw. I used to have one of the larger Harbor Freight bandsaws it was pretty nice and there was less material waste.
Wells done video, I have used both the DeWalt metal cutting chopsaw, DeWalt woodcutting chopsaw, and own an Evolution 380...blades are important, even a spritz of water helps when cutting aluminum to reduce eliminate clogged teeth. Best regards, Paul
If you want to make a clean near-machined finish on any kind of metal, you're going to need a coolant bathed Baileigh cold saw or similar. Dry cut saws are a different combination of cut quality, cost, and practicality.
As an update, I found candle wax on the blade and all my troubles went away. Now it cuts like butter and this saw is simply excellent.
Your smoke detector is telling you the truth! Don't wait to get the bad news from the doctor. Wear a respirator and safety glasses.
Wise words indeed. Thank for commenting
OK.OK.OK. Test lubrication disco.Spain
And as always, use the right blade for the material being cut.
Wd-40 😂
Truly a garage staple
WD 40 is an excellent cutting,milling, drilling, turning fluid for aluminum. It is similar to kerosene which has been used for many years in days if old for aluminum... biggest issue us the residue. WD 40 is mineral spirits and mineral oil.