I would like to add that a best practice with this mounting method is to run your toggle bolt through the threads of your anchor before placing it inside the wall/stud. This will prevent basic cross threading that can happen with this style hardware from time to time.
And sometimes they still don’t catch. When that’s the case, I rub a small amount of chapstick on the top of the screw/bolt and then it threads satisfactorily.
This assumes the location perfectly bridges onto both studs which are 16" apart. What if only 1 stud is where you plan to mount? I plan on using a longer 6"x30" board to bridge across both studs, then mount the bracket to the wood, possibly also use more of the longer toggles through all of it into drywall to secure swivel base to the wood. Overkill perhaps, but it's a 65", 50lb TV.
I work at a university we install many tvs. I will tell you not every wall is to be trusted...some walls only go as high as a suspended ceiling, others go all the way to the bottom of floor deck below. There's also a tremendous (lol) difference between a 32 inch TV on a stationary mount and 85 inch TV on an articulating mount. In many cases people who buy an 85 inch TV will buy a mount for it based on advertised max weight but never factor in the wall you attach to. I would expect the steel stud would provide excellent pull out resistance and shear strength. I wouldn't put a big TV with articulating mount on a steel stud due to its crumple factor. It's likely that for many people this install will be successful, just be mindful of how much leverage you are applying to the wall. If in doubt we will remove drywall where the and add additional stiffeners. Many times we will even use 3/4 paint grade plywood to distribute the load on the studs more evenly. FYI steel studs you get at HD or Lowes are not considered structural. If by chance you're on a wall built with heavy guage studs you could disregard my earlier concerns as the steel is much thicker and will have plenty of lateral support.
Yes, this. The 85 on an articulating is a great example of where you're very likely to need to spread out the load, or you'll have distortion of the upper bolt areas of the toggles, which in turn transfer that distortion to the sheet rock and could pop out a section of it, which would look pretty ass. It probably wouldn't pull thru/out, but it's not gonna be great looking for sure. The plywood mount panel is a good idea, maybe a cut-to-purpose piece of cut down 2x4 fitted into the inside of the stud to spread out the load, just spitballing a bit.....
I was installing a TV mount in a high rise building,,the steel stud literally twisted my carbide bit,,I couldn't believe it,,it took me 2 days to mount 3 TV's.
Is this mount able to adjusted/ or folded back to the wall off center? Or is the wall plate portion long enough to catch 16” centers but be installed to the far edge of the plate? The steel studs I’m going into are not located so the tv is centered evenly on the wall space required.
What if I screw the lag bolts directly into the metal stud without using a toggle bolt or an anchor of any sort? Say for a 40 inch 2020 TV and assuming the wall mount is fixed and doesn’t tilt or move at all. Asking for a friend :)
My apartment set up is so frustrating man. It has metal studs and I can’t drill far enough back through whatever is behind the stud. The flip toggles don’t have enough room to maneuver. So now I have all of there ugly holes in my wall. Just gonna get a tv stand man screw it.
Is this mount able to adjusted/ or folded back to the wall off center? Or is the wall plate portion long enough to catch 16” centers but be installed to the far edge of the plate? The steel studs I’m going into are not located so the tv is centered evenly on the wall space required.
Extremely helpful video - thank you very much! This gave me the confidence to proceed with my DIY install of a TV wall mount in my condo with steel studs. All went well using the snap toggle bolts (1/4" x 4) secured directly into the studs. In one stud however, after drilling through the drywall and the metal, I hit wood, possible a small block? and I had drilled right through it. The snap toggles I had and inserted, the bolt wasn't long enough so I ended up going to HD to buy a longer 1/4" carriage bolt (3") which worked and managed to catch the toggle and secure. I also like how your video shows what's going on inside the wall when you drill and insert the toggles. Very well done video!
Great video very helpful. Probably the only thing I am going to add is only drilling about 1 inch in the wall maximum since there might be utilities behind like fire alarm or sprinkler systems or open romex instead of conduit. I used the Walabot DIY tool to help determine my apartment does in-fact have steel studs, but also they are 24" OC. But it also shows a lot of utilities. I noticed the wall has a fire alarm as well as a sprinkler. So I don't want to drill too deep. about 1 inch depth should insure I go through the 1/2" drywall plus the depth of the steel plus a little more. The utility holes are standard on studs right in the middle so that uniformity helps to avoid utilities as long as I control my depth.
The following video shows a guy dangerously hanging a 50-lb tv with an articulating mount using anchors that are ONLY anchored into drywall (without using studs). ua-cam.com/video/xujweedgXQw/v-deo.html If you are a professional installer, it might be worth watching and posting a comment if you think it's safe or not to make sure no one gets hurt from following such advice. I posted a polite warning message for others, and it seems he immediately deleted the warning.
Excellent video! Thanks for posting! What BRAND of toggle bolts are these? I'm trying to figure out what to buy. Do I need the kind with plastic where you break off a piece that stays in the drywall, or can I use a "regular" metal toggle bolt from H. Depot?
I have a 65 inch qned85 tv and it weighs a lot. Almost about 70 pounds. I'm wondering if wall mounting would be safe because my tv is heavy. Also I noticed that my tv mount isn't wide enough and can only catch one beam instead of two but it's super close. What would be the best advice for this. Thanks all!
The LX600SW TV mount used in this video can hold up to 100 lbs so a 70 lbs TV will work. It's about 18" wide so as long as you have standard 16" stud spacing in your wall you should be able to hit both studs. Unfortunately, I can't advise you on what to do if you're unable to secure the mount into two studs.
You should mount a piece of 3/4 plywood long enough to reach both studs with 4 togglers, 2 togglers in each stud. Paint the plywood if you want to match the wall and be less noticeable. Then put the wall mount to the plywood with 4 more togglers, with one side being toggled to the stud.
Hey Brett/Kanto - quick question. Would this installation require drilling thru the metal stud as well? Do you need a special drill bit for this? Thanks
Hey Lee, you will be drilling through the metal stud for this installation. You will need a 1/2" drill bit which you can find at most hardware or building supply stores
I would not have a secure feeling mounting a 60" TV with those toggler bolts which the most stress from the weight of the TV is putting on the plastics parts of that toggler bolt.
The plastic part of the snaptoggle holds the snaptoggle in place behind the wall during the installation. Once the screw is threaded into the metal portion of the snapptoggle behind the wall, the plastic part is not utilized anymore - it's not a structural component. The LX600SW TV mount used in this video is UL rated, meaning it had to undergo independent testing to hold 4x its weight capacity of 100 lbs. Even though we suggest a max TV size of 65" on the box, it is safe to go with a larger TV as long as you don't exceed 100 lbs.
@@KantoSolutions Thank you for the detail. But I don't think I could trust using those snap toggles on anything bigger than a 65" with a full motion wall mount
@@KantoSolutions I get that the mount is rated to support that weight, but how do I determine that my wall/studs can? The studs in my wall feel pretty flimsy, and in reading online it sounds like some metal studs aren't designed to support any significant weight. Unfortunately there's no branding on my studs that would allow me to look them up
I’m using a 3/16” drill bit, but literally cannot get through the steel stud in my apartment wall. I’ve tried many different bits of various types, but nothing gets in farther than the small dent that’s been made in it. Anyone have any tips? We’ve applied as much pressure as we can and drilled for quite a long time without any progress. We confirmed with our maintenance manager that it should be a steel stud we’re hitting.
Good clear explanation on how to install the Toggle bolts. I like the video shots where you can see the drill bit and toggle bolt going though the drywall and steel stud.
I've read that putting a full motion mount on steel studs will risk warping the studs. I have a 65 inch TV that weighs about 50 pounds. Do you think there's any chance the metal studs will get warped?
You should be fine, especially since all 4 lag bolts will evenly distribute the weight. We have rigorously tested out mounts to ensure a successful installation
My marble fireplace where I currently have a 55 inch tv hanging is a metal stud wall which is covered by a metal mesh, covered in concrete and then the marble placed over it. So the drilling depth is 2cm of marble + 3cm of concrete (5cm total). Would this be strong enough to hold the weight of the a 75 inch (40kg) tv if I were to upgrade? Thanks
If u have 5cm combined of marble and concrete, I'd be looking at Masonry/concrete anchors and forget these anchors. That said, considering the great length of the anchors and ability to control, I see no reason why you can't use them in ur situation. U just have to pilot thru a lot of extra material. No way these anchors are as strong as concrete ones though.
To be clear, which bolts did you use to secure the TV bracket on the wall ( i.e. screw into the toggle anchor)? The ones that came with the TV bracket, or screws/bolts that came with the toggle bolt?
It looks like the zip tie is primarily used to align and hold the metal piece in place until you screw the bolt into it, once they are connected the zip tie has no effect on the weight
Omg i like how you show us whats happening behind the wall thank you thats soooo smart
I would like to add that a best practice with this mounting method is to run your toggle bolt through the threads of your anchor before placing it inside the wall/stud. This will prevent basic cross threading that can happen with this style hardware from time to time.
Great tip, thanks for the comment!
Man I've lost so many toggle bolts in the wall forgetting to check them first 🤦🏽
Excellent advice
And sometimes they still don’t catch. When that’s the case, I rub a small amount of chapstick on the top of the screw/bolt and then it threads satisfactorily.
Excellent how to video.
Extremely educational and I applaud this guy.
I never knew anything about these toggles.
Where have I been?
Great video. I liked that du described the goal of the video so clearly in the first 30 sec of the video. This way I knew I clicked the right video.
So cool to show the backside of the toggler. Very gratifying
This assumes the location perfectly bridges onto both studs which are 16" apart. What if only 1 stud is where you plan to mount? I plan on using a longer 6"x30" board to bridge across both studs, then mount the bracket to the wood, possibly also use more of the longer toggles through all of it into drywall to secure swivel base to the wood. Overkill perhaps, but it's a 65", 50lb TV.
Agreed, that beam across 2 studs also gives extra strength.
Exactly the video I was looking for! Ordering a bracket now.
Sooooo...... What did you end up doing? Everything work for you? I'm about to do this. Not sure WHAT toggle bolts to use, though.
I work at a university we install many tvs. I will tell you not every wall is to be trusted...some walls only go as high as a suspended ceiling, others go all the way to the bottom of floor deck below. There's also a tremendous (lol) difference between a 32 inch TV on a stationary mount and 85 inch TV on an articulating mount. In many cases people who buy an 85 inch TV will buy a mount for it based on advertised max weight but never factor in the wall you attach to. I would expect the steel stud would provide excellent pull out resistance and shear strength. I wouldn't put a big TV with articulating mount on a steel stud due to its crumple factor. It's likely that for many people this install will be successful, just be mindful of how much leverage you are applying to the wall. If in doubt we will remove drywall where the and add additional stiffeners. Many times we will even use 3/4 paint grade plywood to distribute the load on the studs more evenly. FYI steel studs you get at HD or Lowes are not considered structural. If by chance you're on a wall built with heavy guage studs you could disregard my earlier concerns as the steel is much thicker and will have plenty of lateral support.
50 in good?
Yes, this. The 85 on an articulating is a great example of where you're very likely to need to spread out the load, or you'll have distortion of the upper bolt areas of the toggles, which in turn transfer that distortion to the sheet rock and could pop out a section of it, which would look pretty ass. It probably wouldn't pull thru/out, but it's not gonna be great looking for sure. The plywood mount panel is a good idea, maybe a cut-to-purpose piece of cut down 2x4 fitted into the inside of the stud to spread out the load, just spitballing a bit.....
What about a 65 inch tv? What would you recommend there?
Absolutely beautiful, and the TV bracket looks good!
Thank you!
This was an excellent video and so clear, thank you!
Very good step by step explanation. Thank you
I was installing a TV mount in a high rise building,,the steel stud literally twisted my carbide bit,,I couldn't believe it,,it took me 2 days to mount 3 TV's.
Thank you for sharing this knowledge! Just moved to a new building and this was helpful.
REALLY appreciated the close-ups!,
L❤️VE how profesional your video, and your installation is! I give it a 💯
Is this mount able to adjusted/ or folded back to the wall off center? Or is the wall plate portion long enough to catch 16” centers but be installed to the far edge of the plate? The steel studs I’m going into are not located so the tv is centered evenly on the wall space required.
Do they have short toggles for thin walls? The ones you are showing have are too wide for the wall in my apartment
What if I screw the lag bolts directly into the metal stud without using a toggle bolt or an anchor of any sort? Say for a 40 inch 2020 TV and assuming the wall mount is fixed and doesn’t tilt or move at all. Asking for a friend :)
We do not recommend putting lag bolts in metal studs. This could lead to disaster.
Which drill bit should I use?
Thanks 🙏🏼
Can I install a 65 inch to a steel stud? I have a swivel mount not a tilted. I'm concerned about the weight.
Thank you, Paul Scheer 😂
非常棒的视频👍👍👍👍
If you're using toggle anchors, why use the studs at all?
Drywall will not support the weight or movement of an articulating TV mount.
Steel studs are hollow, how are you going to expect a bolt to anchor?
What size toggle bolts are those 1/4 or 3/8?
I’m guessing 1/4 toggle cuz the drill bits only 1/2 not 3/4?
OH NO...they got rid of Luke! This inscryption 2 lore is getting serious.
My apartment set up is so frustrating man. It has metal studs and I can’t drill far enough back through whatever is behind the stud. The flip toggles don’t have enough room to maneuver. So now I have all of there ugly holes in my wall. Just gonna get a tv stand man screw it.
Is this mount able to adjusted/ or folded back to the wall off center? Or is the wall plate portion long enough to catch 16” centers but be installed to the far edge of the plate? The steel studs I’m going into are not located so the tv is centered evenly on the wall space required.
Extremely helpful video - thank you very much! This gave me the confidence to proceed with my DIY install of a TV wall mount in my condo with steel studs. All went well using the snap toggle bolts (1/4" x 4) secured directly into the studs. In one stud however, after drilling through the drywall and the metal, I hit wood, possible a small block? and I had drilled right through it. The snap toggles I had and inserted, the bolt wasn't long enough so I ended up going to HD to buy a longer 1/4" carriage bolt (3") which worked and managed to catch the toggle and secure.
I also like how your video shows what's going on inside the wall when you drill and insert the toggles. Very well done video!
Glad you liked it and well done on improvising for your situation!
Great video very helpful. Probably the only thing I am going to add is only drilling about 1 inch in the wall maximum since there might be utilities behind like fire alarm or sprinkler systems or open romex instead of conduit. I used the Walabot DIY tool to help determine my apartment does in-fact have steel studs, but also they are 24" OC. But it also shows a lot of utilities. I noticed the wall has a fire alarm as well as a sprinkler. So I don't want to drill too deep. about 1 inch depth should insure I go through the 1/2" drywall plus the depth of the steel plus a little more. The utility holes are standard on studs right in the middle so that uniformity helps to avoid utilities as long as I control my depth.
The Walabot is a fantastic tool if you are unsure about what is behind your wall. Thanks for the comment.
The following video shows a guy dangerously hanging a 50-lb tv with an articulating mount using anchors that are ONLY anchored into drywall (without using studs).
ua-cam.com/video/xujweedgXQw/v-deo.html
If you are a professional installer, it might be worth watching and posting a comment if you think it's safe or not to make sure no one gets hurt from following such advice.
I posted a polite warning message for others, and it seems he immediately deleted the warning.
Thank you so much for this video. Saved me so much time!!
Glad it helped!
SOLD ME for sure.
Excellent video! Thanks for posting! What BRAND of toggle bolts are these? I'm trying to figure out what to buy. Do I need the kind with plastic where you break off a piece that stays in the drywall, or can I use a "regular" metal toggle bolt from H. Depot?
We include SNAPTOGGLE heavy-duty toggle bolts in our LX600SW metal stud TV mount
I have a 65 inch qned85 tv and it weighs a lot. Almost about 70 pounds. I'm wondering if wall mounting would be safe because my tv is heavy. Also I noticed that my tv mount isn't wide enough and can only catch one beam instead of two but it's super close. What would be the best advice for this. Thanks all!
The LX600SW TV mount used in this video can hold up to 100 lbs so a 70 lbs TV will work. It's about 18" wide so as long as you have standard 16" stud spacing in your wall you should be able to hit both studs. Unfortunately, I can't advise you on what to do if you're unable to secure the mount into two studs.
You should mount a piece of 3/4 plywood long enough to reach both studs with 4 togglers, 2 togglers in each stud. Paint the plywood if you want to match the wall and be less noticeable. Then put the wall mount to the plywood with 4 more togglers, with one side being toggled to the stud.
BEST Video with crystal clear picture and excellent and precise explanation.
Hey Brett/Kanto - quick question.
Would this installation require drilling thru the metal stud as well? Do you need a special drill bit for this? Thanks
Hey Lee, you will be drilling through the metal stud for this installation. You will need a 1/2" drill bit which you can find at most hardware or building supply stores
@@KantoSolutions I really appreciate it. Thanks!
Don't ever put a full motion mount into metal studs. I've seen it where after a while that tv is going to pull out the wall
Where do you get the template wall
come with tv braket
Brilliant video + very clear 👍👍
Helpful, but wish you would have told us the drill bit size AND the size of the toggle bolts/screws
I would not have a secure feeling mounting a 60" TV with those toggler bolts which the most stress from the weight of the TV is putting on the plastics parts of that toggler bolt.
The plastic part of the snaptoggle holds the snaptoggle in place behind the wall during the installation. Once the screw is threaded into the metal portion of the snapptoggle behind the wall, the plastic part is not utilized anymore - it's not a structural component.
The LX600SW TV mount used in this video is UL rated, meaning it had to undergo independent testing to hold 4x its weight capacity of 100 lbs. Even though we suggest a max TV size of 65" on the box, it is safe to go with a larger TV as long as you don't exceed 100 lbs.
@@KantoSolutions Thank you for the detail. But I don't think I could trust using those snap toggles on anything bigger than a 65" with a full motion wall mount
@@KantoSolutions I get that the mount is rated to support that weight, but how do I determine that my wall/studs can? The studs in my wall feel pretty flimsy, and in reading online it sounds like some metal studs aren't designed to support any significant weight. Unfortunately there's no branding on my studs that would allow me to look them up
Are the metal studs strong enough to hold the wait of a 85’’ TV ?
I’m using a 3/16” drill bit, but literally cannot get through the steel stud in my apartment wall. I’ve tried many different bits of various types, but nothing gets in farther than the small dent that’s been made in it. Anyone have any tips? We’ve applied as much pressure as we can and drilled for quite a long time without any progress. We confirmed with our maintenance manager that it should be a steel stud we’re hitting.
Use a hammer drill
Good clear explanation on how to install the Toggle bolts. I like the video shots where you can see the drill bit and toggle bolt going though the drywall and steel stud.
Greta install video, and Kanto products are solid!
I've read that putting a full motion mount on steel studs will risk warping the studs. I have a 65 inch TV that weighs about 50 pounds. Do you think there's any chance the metal studs will get warped?
You should be fine, especially since all 4 lag bolts will evenly distribute the weight. We have rigorously tested out mounts to ensure a successful installation
This isn’t steel studs, this is regular metal.
My wall is concrete with steel studs
Thank you. Learn something today
My marble fireplace where I currently have a 55 inch tv hanging is a metal stud wall which is covered by a metal mesh, covered in concrete and then the marble placed over it. So the drilling depth is 2cm of marble + 3cm of concrete (5cm total). Would this be strong enough to hold the weight of the a 75 inch (40kg) tv if I were to upgrade? Thanks
If u have 5cm combined of marble and concrete, I'd be looking at Masonry/concrete anchors and forget these anchors. That said, considering the great length of the anchors and ability to control, I see no reason why you can't use them in ur situation. U just have to pilot thru a lot of extra material. No way these anchors are as strong as concrete ones though.
Either way though, you'll need a hammer drill to get thru masonry.
To be clear, which bolts did you use to secure the TV bracket on the wall ( i.e. screw into the toggle anchor)? The ones that came with the TV bracket, or screws/bolts that came with the toggle bolt?
shouldn't matter...so long as they match the toggle bolt (1/2 inch)
I love Brett
Will this be ok for a 75 inch tv that weighs 76 pounds? I am also looking to use a with a full motion mount (22 pounds) like you have in the video.
We do recommend a max weight of 100 lb.
@@KantoSolutionsso below 100 lbs you believe full motion mount is okay on steel studs?
Let's have a look
thanks
Thankyou
Glookin
Great
Great video
You put a lot of trust into the wall hardware zip ties I wouldn’t do that with a 50 inch tv
It looks like the zip tie is primarily used to align and hold the metal piece in place until you screw the bolt into it, once they are connected the zip tie has no effect on the weight