Man o man where was this video last year... spent more time than I'd like to admit arriving at that conclusion. I'm sure this will help out a lot of people. Thanks!
Maybe that little gasket acts like a shock absorber of sorts, and keeps the steel parts from pressing against each other, too tightly, and possibly fracturing
Hi Mike, thanks for all the wonderful videos!!! Always helps me a lot. Currently I have the problem that my new clutch is slipping. I use the stronger clutch from a 130 because of high weight and often use of heavy trailers Two decades ago I swapped the 300 TDI on my 90 Defender for the reinforced clutch on the TDI 130. Unfortunately, I did not change the pressure rod of the clutch slave (does it have to be the longer or shorter one?) nor did I adjust the pressure rod on the pedal of the clutch master. Now, unfortunately, the new clutch slips quite a lot. My question is: Do I need a different pressure rod on the slave cylinder or is it enough to simply adjust the pressure rod on the master cylinder (shorter or longer...?)? Greetings and many thanks from northern Germany
Sounds like you have mismatched rods and cylinders! Change the rod for a shorter one (tricky) or replace the cylinder Clutch Slave Cylinder FTC5072 - R380 To Gearbox 56A066908K Must be matched with pushrod FTC3912 - 91.3mm Clutch Slave Cylinder FTC5202 - R380 From gearbox serial 56A0669087K Must be matched with pushrod FTC5199 - 99.38mm
Forgive my ignorance, but how it's called the tool that you use on the drill? And also with that grease, is regular grease I mean multipurpose or as you said breake grease?
The tool is a brake cylinder hone www.zoro.co.uk/store/brake%20cylinder%20hone The grease is Castrol red rubber grease specifically for brakes and any rubber components www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/castrol-red-rubber-grease-cas5900/
If you're having trouble bleeding I've found unbolting the slave and letting it hang allowed me to get the air out that wasn't flowing out even with the bleed nipple on top
Man o man where was this video last year... spent more time than I'd like to admit arriving at that conclusion. I'm sure this will help out a lot of people. Thanks!
Glad I could help!
I just had to replace mine in October. I have the old one now in the spare parts bin. I considered throwing it away.
Thanks for the info, Mike!
Any time!
maybe the 'gasket' is made of a metal that stops corrosion between the basically aluminium casting, and the steel bulkhead ?
Steel
Super video Mike
Thanks
Glad you enjoyed it
Nice one Mike, thanks!
You're welcome!
Possibly stops a reaction between aluminium cylinder and metal body .
It's steel
Maybe that little gasket acts like a shock absorber of sorts, and keeps the steel parts from pressing against each other, too tightly, and possibly fracturing
Hi Mike,
thanks for all the wonderful videos!!! Always helps me a lot.
Currently I have the problem that my new clutch is slipping. I use the stronger clutch from a 130 because of high weight and often use of heavy trailers
Two decades ago I swapped the 300 TDI on my 90 Defender for the reinforced clutch on the TDI 130.
Unfortunately, I did not change the pressure rod of the clutch slave (does it have to be the longer or shorter one?) nor did I adjust the pressure rod on the pedal of the clutch master. Now, unfortunately, the new clutch slips quite a lot.
My question is: Do I need a different pressure rod on the slave cylinder or is it enough to simply adjust the pressure rod on the master cylinder (shorter or longer...?)?
Greetings and many thanks from northern Germany
Sounds like you have mismatched rods and cylinders!
Change the rod for a shorter one (tricky) or replace the cylinder
Clutch Slave Cylinder FTC5072 - R380
To Gearbox 56A066908K
Must be matched with pushrod FTC3912 - 91.3mm
Clutch Slave Cylinder FTC5202 - R380
From gearbox serial 56A0669087K
Must be matched with pushrod FTC5199 - 99.38mm
Handy things floors certainly. The spacer is for keeping folk guessing about what the fick it's for. Because Land Rover.
Where do you measure the rod from do you include the ball at the end or just the bar bit?
The whole length
🐨 nice one m8 👌👍
💂
Thanks for the visit
Is the spacer the same thickness as the difference between the early and late push rods?
Would have to be 8.08mm thick..
Forgive my ignorance, but how it's called the tool that you use on the drill? And also with that grease, is regular grease I mean multipurpose or as you said breake grease?
The tool is a brake cylinder hone
www.zoro.co.uk/store/brake%20cylinder%20hone
The grease is Castrol red rubber grease specifically for brakes and any rubber components
www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/castrol-red-rubber-grease-cas5900/
Howcome your ftc3912 is 91mm and all the ones for sale are 105mm?
There were 2 styles of master cylinder - the push rod must match the cylinder!
How to put that rod plastic clip in the place?
I had mine fallout and I cannot recoup that for the life of me!!! Help Mike please
Spacer made of ..? Is it to prevent 'bi metallic' corrosion? Aluminium v firewall maybe? ...but as its Land Rover...probably not.
As far as I know the spacer is to prevent galvanic reaction between rhe two components.
But it is a steel cylinder
@@BritannicaRestorations maybe leftover from cases that were not steel
Spacer.... Just to be bl**dy awkward knowing land rover 😂
If you're having trouble bleeding I've found unbolting the slave and letting it hang allowed me to get the air out that wasn't flowing out even with the bleed nipple on top
Grease + brake fluid? Interesting mixture 😊
It s a proper grease for brake /clutch sistem...
I drink it most weekends...and weekdays...
Red rubber grease is fine for brake & clutch systems.
Thank you!
Correct - Castrol rubber grease