I cannot thank you enough for posting this video. I've been chasing ghosts for the last 6 months as my r32 has been misfiring and sounded like a subaru boxer engine. I tested the ignitor and got 0 ohms on pin 4.
Circuit boards can and will expand some with heat even when new, over time connections can break causing intermittent shorts when hot. As the part cools the break gap closes and the circuit board will work normally. As the circuit board gets older the gap can get large enough from heat cycling that even when cold the break is big enough to cause problems. Trying to track down my miss fire issue, but had a similar issue with a Volvo 850 T5 ABS controller, when hot ABS light came on and no ABS, when cold no light. Found someone who could repair the board and add additional cooling for far less than new, worked fine till sold!
Thank you so much for posting this video! I have been chasing a misfire around for over a month.... Finally was able to trace it to igniter pin #1... Now to find a new igniter...
Thanks for posting this; I'm trying to diagnose a misfire and really appreciate the info. Will hopefully have the ignitor out of the car tomorrow night to see how it tests.
Agreed; most folks simply default to replacing parts without doing any diagnosis. With the cost of a set of coils (and a good ignitor) I'd rather have some confidence as to what needs to be fixed before throwing money at the issue. Thanks again.
+71firebird400 It actually turned out in the end that my problem was a mix of issues and the ecu plug was loose and out by under 0.25mm. I felt it move just a tiny bit but it fixed the last of my misfire issue. so that's worth check as well. My new ignitor definitely checked out using this method though.
i found my way here coz my stagea has a problem. i'm getting all the info before i get greasy stuff on my hands. thanks for posting. i think your cat wants your attention.
hi Osiris I might have found the problem but I'm not counting my chickens yet, I've had a lot of issues I've fixed those but still no go, it cranks but no start, I tested the cas no continuity between no.2/42 52, so I've ordered a cas and I'll let you know, thanks for the ignition module vid.
So I got a consistent.7-.8 m ohm all the way through for my first test for the second test the only pins I got OL for was #4 and 5 and then I got 1.6kilo Ohms for 1-1 from what you’ve explained i indeed have a block of worthless garbage 👍🏼👍🏼
I would be checking the plugs also then as the one in my 33 is also from a 32 and runs fine. I replaced a lot of my cables/plugs due to them being so old so your it could be a poor connection?
I tested my igniter using this method. The first 4 pins gave me about the same reading but 5&6 were almost double. In the reverse test pin 6 was the only one to give me a reading. Does this mean my igniter is bad?
Sounds like it’s ok. You should only get resistance in 1 direction and then open line in the reverse. A lot of my issues also stemmed from the ecu plug being slightly loose even though bolt was done tightly it was skewed by about half a mm which was almost impossible to see but you could feel it move when pushed.
Ok I need a little clarity here... my first test showed 0.273 mega ohms across all 6 and the second test showed an open line (0L) across all 6... I need a simple answer is my igniter unit good or bad?
Sounds good to me. Basically if you follow the test and the ignitor gives values in one direction but not the other then it hasn't started to break down.
Thank you for this, super helpful! I'm wondering... I pulled my ignitor when it was hot. I did the fault test and I received O.L. ("1") on 4 of the 6 pins. Two of them read 1.8XX or so. Once everything cooled down, they all read O.L. ("1") again. Could this mean that my ignitor becomes faulty when hot? My car does get worse when hot and sometimes does not want to start all together.
Yes the heat can definitely cause the connections to break down which would make the car run worse. Mine only did it under boost and about 10 mins of driving and would then get progressively worse.
Osiris Thanks so much for this. New GTR owner here in the USA. I am having the exact same symptoms. Just recently turned up the boost to about 16 psi and right about that 10 minute mark the car starts to run poorly. I suspected this device but now I am almost positive after seeing your video. I am going to test it
hey, my issue was spark becoming weak as the engine heated up. although my ignitor was partly to blame my other issue was that my ecu plug although bolted in tightly had moved out by about half a mm which was enough to make my issue worse. perhaps it's something similar?
Doubt I will get a reply being this is so old... But for some reason i get so confused when it comes to testing When I do the first test I get readings on all pins.. now the second test it stays at O.L ("1") Is this bad or good? I'm assuming that the ignitor is shot. I get power to coils to C.A.S etc but I do not get any spark.
When testing the igniter you should get readings only in 1 direction. If you get open line in the opposing direction to the same pins then in theory your unit is ok. If you get readings in both directions it means your unit is on the way out. Does that help?
@@jefferyfarrell alright I will gi e that a try I just took a light tester to the signal wire it has pulse when I spin the cas very very dim...but I get absolutely no spark from the coil
I know your comment is a bit old, but I'm having the same misfire issue with my GT-R. Once it gets up to temp, I get a slight misfire once into boost. I'm hoping it's just the ignitor
I cannot thank you enough for posting this video. I've been chasing ghosts for the last 6 months as my r32 has been misfiring and sounded like a subaru boxer engine. I tested the ignitor and got 0 ohms on pin 4.
This video has just saved me a massive headache. Thanks so much!
Glad it helped
Circuit boards can and will expand some with heat even when new, over time connections can break causing intermittent shorts when hot. As the part cools the break gap closes and the circuit board will work normally.
As the circuit board gets older the gap can get large enough from heat cycling that even when cold the break is big enough to cause problems.
Trying to track down my miss fire issue, but had a similar issue with a Volvo 850 T5 ABS controller, when hot ABS light came on and no ABS, when cold no light. Found someone who could repair the board and add additional cooling for far less than new, worked fine till sold!
Thank you so much for posting this video! I have been chasing a misfire around for over a month.... Finally was able to trace it to igniter pin #1... Now to find a new igniter...
Thanks for posting this; I'm trying to diagnose a misfire and really appreciate the info. Will hopefully have the ignitor out of the car tomorrow night to see how it tests.
I hope it helps. it took me a very long time to find the info for testing this that actually made sense.
Agreed; most folks simply default to replacing parts without doing any diagnosis. With the cost of a set of coils (and a good ignitor) I'd rather have some confidence as to what needs to be fixed before throwing money at the issue. Thanks again.
+71firebird400 It actually turned out in the end that my problem was a mix of issues and the ecu plug was loose and out by under 0.25mm. I felt it move just a tiny bit but it fixed the last of my misfire issue. so that's worth check as well. My new ignitor definitely checked out using this method though.
i found my way here coz my stagea has a problem. i'm getting all the info before i get greasy stuff on my hands. thanks for posting. i think your cat wants your attention.
hi Osiris I might have found the problem but I'm not counting my chickens yet, I've had a lot of issues I've fixed those but still no go, it cranks but no start, I tested the cas no continuity between no.2/42 52, so I've ordered a cas and I'll let you know, thanks for the ignition module vid.
cool thanks Osiris I'll keep you posted
All good.
hi Osiris do you know the ohms a oil pressure switch needs to be ok on the rb engine, thanks aaron
Its not in the manual but if it is just a switch then you should get open line on a meter when its not contacting and some resistance when it does.
ok thank you.
So I got a consistent.7-.8 m ohm all the way through for my first test for the second test the only pins I got OL for was #4 and 5 and then I got 1.6kilo Ohms for 1-1 from what you’ve explained i indeed have a block of worthless garbage 👍🏼👍🏼
Thanks heaps m8
I got an R32 and got a r33 ignighter and it wouldn't start the car.as the r33 car was running when I removed it.
I would be checking the plugs also then as the one in my 33 is also from a 32 and runs fine. I replaced a lot of my cables/plugs due to them being so old so your it could be a poor connection?
I tested my igniter using this method. The first 4 pins gave me about the same reading but 5&6 were almost double. In the reverse test pin 6 was the only one to give me a reading. Does this mean my igniter is bad?
when testing for fault and you get no reading at all on each pin is that good or not?
Are you getting no reading in both directions?
one direction I'm getting readings positive on base, but positive on collector side no readings
Sounds like it’s ok. You should only get resistance in 1 direction and then open line in the reverse. A lot of my issues also stemmed from the ecu plug being slightly loose even though bolt was done tightly it was skewed by about half a mm which was almost impossible to see but you could feel it move when pushed.
timing was way out, so I lined every thing up and away she went
Ok I need a little clarity here... my first test showed 0.273 mega ohms across all 6 and the second test showed an open line (0L) across all 6... I need a simple answer is my igniter unit good or bad?
Sounds good to me. Basically if you follow the test and the ignitor gives values in one direction but not the other then it hasn't started to break down.
so the newish one did you replace it with the exact same igniter or did you put a different one
Thank you for this, super helpful! I'm wondering... I pulled my ignitor when it was hot. I did the fault test and I received O.L. ("1") on 4 of the 6 pins. Two of them read 1.8XX or so. Once everything cooled down, they all read O.L. ("1") again. Could this mean that my ignitor becomes faulty when hot? My car does get worse when hot and sometimes does not want to start all together.
Yes the heat can definitely cause the connections to break down which would make the car run worse. Mine only did it under boost and about 10 mins of driving and would then get progressively worse.
Osiris Thanks so much for this. New GTR owner here in the USA. I am having the exact same symptoms. Just recently turned up the boost to about 16 psi and right about that 10 minute mark the car starts to run poorly. I suspected this device but now I am almost positive after seeing your video. I am going to test it
Hey mate have you had issues with weak spark before mine just won't start have changed the ignitor still nothing
hey, my issue was spark becoming weak as the engine heated up. although my ignitor was partly to blame my other issue was that my ecu plug although bolted in tightly had moved out by about half a mm which was enough to make my issue worse. perhaps it's something similar?
Doubt I will get a reply being this is so old...
But for some reason i get so confused when it comes to testing
When I do the first test I get readings on all pins.. now the second test it stays at O.L ("1")
Is this bad or good? I'm assuming that the ignitor is shot. I get power to coils to C.A.S etc but I do not get any spark.
When testing the igniter you should get readings only in 1 direction. If you get open line in the opposing direction to the same pins then in theory your unit is ok. If you get readings in both directions it means your unit is on the way out. Does that help?
@@jefferyfarrell alright soo that's good but bad news lol now I have no clue at all what is wrong lol.
HashTagHoonZ check your plug at the ecu. Mine was done up tight but was still out by 0.5mm on one side and it caused me a lot of issues.
@@jefferyfarrell alright I will gi e that a try I just took a light tester to the signal wire it has pulse when I spin the cas very very dim...but I get absolutely no spark from the coil
@@jefferyfarrell I just tested mine and I got a OL on all 6 both ways, what do you suppose is wrong
Would this cause a misfire to come and go randomly? one minute its fine the next its misfiring? it seems to drive fine until its fully warmed up?
I know your comment is a bit old, but I'm having the same misfire issue with my GT-R. Once it gets up to temp, I get a slight misfire once into boost. I'm hoping it's just the ignitor
@@emericareaper2 I get mine at 4k its been a few years but did u figure it out , all coils seemed fine and plugs where just changed and gapped to .8
@@connornorlin9388 Igniter. Swapped mine out with a different one & it fixed my issue
Would a bad rb20 ignitor cause it to shut off randomly during driving?
Harvey Ruiz did you ever figure it out