Hey viewers Happy New Year! Our first video for 2021 is part 1 of machining a new shaft for a 1000hp tree grinder. This did not go as expected and we had some serious issues with the material. Hope you enjoy the video 😎👍 Subscribe and hit the bell icon to turn on notifications so you don't miss our weekly uploads. 👇 🤳 Follow us online here: Instagram instagram.com/cutting_edge_engineering Facebook facebook.com/cuttingedgeengineeringaustralia/ Official CEE Merch shop: www.ceeshop.com.au
Think about it though, the poor shaft is in for a life of grinding stumps, was there anything wrong with the first/original one? it failed, tried to be repaired but failed again....nice and noisy when failing i bet. So it is a crazy job this shaft is asked to do in it's life. But hypothetically, what if you made a perfect shaft, it could possibly work a tiny bit less efficient then the "banana" you have....as you said, you went for some flex... I'd like to think it could be worth the punt, what would the cost of labor and material be now, what if it failed after X? hours, what if it worked perfect longer than the original, can it do that much damage running out so little....FOR A TREE GRINDER MAIN SHAFT!!! How much more labor to finish it, X? more $ but i think it could be worth a try, what bearing can it hurt, what is the perceived problem this would cause...for a tree grinder?
Has the treatment that unfortunately made it worse...also made it stronger now? That could become a benefit for this lump of steel? How balanced is the drum it spins in the first place, could this be a deliberate "banana drum shaft experiment"? So? it could have a weird vibration but all that must become irrelevant once it starts grinding.
One last point maybe, even from 3:50 to 3:59 (nice close up slo mo again but need closer and slower) that shaft was showing it was going to fight, making spring swarf all the way doing that first support groove, it just seems to have wanted to be a lobe...can it be basically flexing your lathe and itself to keep this "imperfection"? But i still think you give the customer a chance to save as much as possible from the RUD (Rapid Unscheduled Disassembly *Elon) it's good recording your work like this so you can show what happened but why not still try it?
As Woodworker we bump into Problems with stress and bowing quite often. So we use heat treating as well. We heat the wood up to about 1000°C in the stove and this solves any Problem. :-)
Yup! Solves the problem every time. I've also noticed that as the prices for wood increase the more common the problem becomes. Happy New Year to everyone wherever you happen to be in the world.
As I work on making swarm traps from scrap 1/2" ply, I'm come across pieces of warped madrone, and having great success at heat treating. Toasty warm here in Origun, USA. No E. Happy New York 🇺🇲
@@timothyball3144 First Hermann had me like "umm what technique are you using, that would simply create carbon" (im a carpenter but I also deeply dive into new techniques and skills to broaden my knowledge) then I went to comment like yours and foudn your comment. To be fair, he is not wrong. XD
Enjoyed the video about the bent shaft that kept throwing out. I worked on a copper mine in the 70's in Africa and we often made shafts. I remember shaft turning carbon steel pump shafts and larger shafts for the mining operations. With long shafts with a ratio of diameter to length over 1:13 one had to keep turning end for end and between centres. There was no heat treatment, we just kept turning end-for-end with light cuts until the stresses eased out of the shaft. Later in life running my own company similar to yours we found alloy steel shafts needed heat treatment. Not annealing, but stress relieving treatment. There is a British Standard available I believe, forget the reference number now. We would rough out to plus 10mm on diameters stress relieve 1. then further rough out to plus three mm on diameters and stress relieve 2. and then rough to plus 1mm all over. We would not finish important diameters leaving them to the very last. Where large keyways or drilling operation were involved axially we left bearing diameter's until the keyways had been cut. If a shaft is absolutely critical sometimes it is best to let it rest for a week in the roughed out state in addition to stress relieving. I found a company in Saudi in the 80's that had spent a lot of work on a large shaft 6" diameter x 6ft long and ground all over which had moved after grinding and the throw was 4/10 thou. That is 0.0004". The shaft had been rejected. To the comment someone made about cheapskate customers supplying poor quality steel, I would say no billet or bar is always perfect. I have had to reject stainless steel bars with cracks in the core. It's part of life I guess. I'm not familiar with the steel designations given in the video I only remember the British EN series. From memory the most stable steel available for shaft turning, steel that did not move, was EN14. It's tensile strength is little better than 20 carbon steel i.e. 20 tons tensile, but it is stable and easy to cut, also resistant to cracking. Customers often choose better quality steel for a job, but it is not always better, the steel has to suit the application. I remember a customer coming to me in desperation, he had used every type of alloy steel for a railway application where there was heavy vibration. We eventually tried structural steel grade 43A and it lasted 20 years. No cracking and the welds held. I think you could save a lot of time by buying a small horizonal milling machine for boring out gussets and beating. The Cincinnati 2E is ideal for such things and bigger millers for the larger work. I am very impressed however with the automatic welding device for line boring. I've been retired now 20 years, and I suppose I miss the old machine shop work. But better to watch your videos. Best wishes, your videos are fascinating and I have earned a lot from watching.
I've probably spent less than 10 hours running a lathe, and I'm probably wrong, but, when you started cutting, the free end had obviously quite a bit of runout. Thats fine because there was plenty to remove. I think the problem didn't occur until you flipped it. You should have adjusted the chuck for zero runout on the indicator, left the steady rest where it was, and all the runout would have transferred to the free end. Same as before. I'm sure sometimes material will spring after removing a good portion, but in this case i think it was operator error.
Just came across your channel and enjoy the content. I’m a manual machinist and make these shafts often and can keep them running within .001” the whole way but they can be very temperamental .Couple things I have found/been taught. Number 1: 4 jaw Number 2: face up the ends of the shaft and have it banked against something solid in chuck Number 3: rough in the big OD the length of the shaft before turning the ends. For one it gets all the stress out from the beginning that’s in that top layer. It also reduces the size of the square shoulder which will warp the shaft Number 4: step in your radius while roughing so it looks like a staircase. This will help with the large square shoulder and help keep it from moving. Radius will always fit under a 45% angle. Say you are taking 0.100” perside when you get to the end of your cut stop 0.100” sooner the next pass until then go step it down some more when done roughing before finish passes. With a radius that big on a shaft of that length you want the radius on both ends roughed in before finishing either side or you will risk bending it. Number 5: gotta be careful with the steady rest can bend them with that also. Number 6: I scraped one the other week because I got some unexpected taper on my last pass. Besides that nice work and I envy your lathe. I make them on a 1940s 20” American. That rapid traverse on the carriage, DRO and the chuck for the tail stock make me drool.
@Devin Shock I've never seen Kurtis talk about runout on his scroll Chuck, but on these large shafts I imagine a 4 jaw would be better, and your advice about the steps in the shoulder seem sound. I watch ABOM 79 on UA-cam (Adam Booth) and he does or has done many gearbox shafts of that length and girth and he uses the same techniques that you mention. Kurtis is a great machinist no doubt, but I think he would benefit from being a little more patient in his techniques. It seems he is always looking for the fastest way to get it done, which is great for his shop, as he appears to be a one man crew, but the fastest way is not always the right way, especially in manual machining large shafts, or machining in general for that matter. Enjoyed the video. Sometimes it does not matter your technique, a shaft can just be to out of wack. Strange though, I've never seen Adam Booth have this issue, and while I've not seen all his videos, I've seen a lot, and many are of this type of machining, and on much older machines!
Enjoy your videos . Your explaining each step of the job is great. My grandpa was a machinist for the Pennsylvania Railroad in 1937 to 1960. He was excellent at his trade. Had his own lathe & tools , unheard of in those days. No one but he could use it. He was that good. He would have loved to see you work. Love your pup...your wife is great behind the camera, you’re a good team. God Bless
Hi. The problems you have had are due to the stresses caused by turning in the material. It is normal. But to avoid so many problems, you should do the centering points later. The material is always going to twist. It is a material of a very high quality and resistance. I really like the tailstock grip plate. From Spain, greetings. Very good work and very good channel!
Hey mate, I’m an Aussie, not a machinist. But I have recently found your channel and have watched them all in a couple days. Love your work and genuine skills. If only I could turn back time, I’d love to do what you do and the skills you have. Thankyou!
I remember the first machine shop I worked at and one of the things they made were impeller shafts about 10 feet long and about 3 inches in diameter made out of 4140. They would always warp .050-.100 once rough machined and left over night due to the fact the steel isn't stress relieved.
Interesting to see how different shops use different ideas to do the same type of job and I enjoyed seeing how you got it done. I used to do large commutator shafts of a similar size, and we had a few rules.... 1. No steady rest adjacent to the live centre. 2. Kept looking for another steady rest. 3. Span of less than 2 metres between Chuck/Live centre and steady rests, adding a second steady rest as required. 4. Opposing interrupted cuts for the two steady rests meant that we could send the material back. That interrupted cut behind the steady rest along the unsupported centre section had my teeth on edge...some evidence of sagging at the 12:00 mark. Building up heat in the work piece could explain some of your later run out issues as due to the thickness it likely wasn't heat treated fully before hand. Thanks again for an enjoyable video.
@@1kleineMax1 A few seconds later i can hear the sound of the cutting ocillating up and down which suggests the cut is getting deeper and shallower once per rotation which means something is going on with the peice as the cut sound on anything other than a cleaup pass should be fairly consistent as you should be removing an equal amount of metal all around the work peice
@@georgemarshall6657 A few seconds later i can hear the sound of the cutting ocillating up and down which suggests the cut is getting deeper and shallower once per rotation which means something is going on with the peice as the cut sound on anything other than a cleaup pass should be fairly consistent as you should be removing an equal amount of metal all around the work peice
on long shaft I always turn steady band closest to the chuck first and work towards the tail with at least 3 bands Always 2 cuts to cut steady band. Lastly re-machine the centre. repeat this process a number of times depending on the diameter and metal to be removed rough out the entire shaft first and allow to cool. Machine new steady bands and centres again before finishing. Just my way. hope it helps someone.
Stress relief before machining a large-diameter shaft is an essential step to minimize distortions during the machining process and to maintain dimensional accuracy. This is especially important for large shafts because internal stresses from manufacturing processes, such as forging, casting, or welding, can cause warping or deformation when material is removed. ### Steps for Stress Relief: 1. **Material Selection:** - Understand the material properties of the shaft (e.g., steel grade, hardness, and alloy composition). - Some materials are more prone to stress buildup than others. 2. **Stress-Relief Heat Treatment:** - Heat the shaft uniformly to a specific temperature, depending on the material: - For steel, stress relief typically occurs between **550-650°C (1022-1202°F)**. - Hold the temperature for an adequate soak time (usually 1-2 hours per inch of thickness). - Cool the shaft slowly, preferably in the furnace or in still air, to avoid introducing new stresses. 3. **Pre-Machining Stress Relief (if necessary):** - After rough machining, conduct another stress relief heat treatment to eliminate stresses introduced during the initial shaping. 4. **Machining Considerations:** - Ensure uniform material removal on all sides to minimize distortion. - Use balanced fixturing to avoid introducing clamping stresses. 5. **Post-Machining Stress Relief (if applicable):** - For components requiring high precision, a final stress relief cycle after machining can help stabilize the material. 6. **Shot Peening or Vibratory Stress Relief (Optional):** - Shot peening introduces surface compression to reduce the risk of warping. - Vibratory stress relief uses mechanical vibrations to redistribute residual stresses and is an alternative to thermal methods. By following these steps, you can significantly reduce the risk of deformation and achieve high dimensional accuracy in your large-diameter shaft.
I am very much an amateur at machining. I have a small 9x16 homemade metal lathe. No power feed. No change gears. But i have run into problems like this, only i did Not know enough, to know what was going on. Now i do, so thanks, it explains a lot. I have run into internal stresses a lot in woodworking, but never thought about it being in steel. Your Vids have taught me a lot, and given me a lot of ideas too. So thanks...........
Seeing you work is a pleasure to behold! You use numerical control machinery with disarming ease! You are not afraid of any job, you are humble and honest. Best wishes for a 2024 full of beautiful things for you and my lady. A hug to "homeless" ❤️❤️❤️
yep my exspirience too you get a broken shaft its going nowhere good no fucking way no matter how strong you make it i had the same problem on a industreal drill press 500 euros secend hand 2 days in shaft breaks new motor 100 euros through the magic of machining i fucked it every way possibel and got it to work INBUS kv10.9 /24x100 br din912
15:55 One thing I've learned over the years, don't ever slide the end with a run-out into the 3-jaw chuck. First of all there's no way to check the end of the shaft and second, the 3-jaws will try to move the run-out in different direction. As someone mentioned before 4-jaw chuck and working between centers is your best bet. But if it turns out that it's some shitty material, then there isn't much you can do.
I think your 3 jaws chuck is running out of center, I have some experience with these shafts and I do not trust but my 4 jaws chuck, I would say too, that your lathe needs more power and better bedways
Your Lathe-cooling is special. I have always cooled the HSS turning tools, drills, center drills etc. directly and sufficiently and never the workpiece itself. You want to protect the cutting edges from wear with it. Aluminum with a petrol can and a brush. We didn't cool the carbide plates at all or as much as you can't with your lathe cooling system. HSS turning tools are considerably cheaper and can be reground numerous times. You will need a chip hook to remove the chips without cutting yourself. The measuring instruments are always read directly on the workpiece and not after it has been removed. This is not meant to be a teaching, we just learned it in apprenticeship training. Keep up the good work, be careful with the machines, avoid working alone with the machines and it's exciting to watch.
Happy new year mate, I used to machine shafts similar to this one that you are making, we used to rough it out to within .250" all over and then let it sit and normalize for at least 3-4 weeks( its a long time if the shaft was needed ASAP), then do the finishing using minimum radius tooling to eliminate tool pressure on the job. we did as much as we could possible with the part setup without flipping it. TIR we used to get this way was within .002-.003 on the 96" length. Best Regards.
You two put a great video together. I always wondered how these giant machines worked and how they get repaired in a shop, etc. From Detroit, thanks for the look into the how to's.
.... nothing more beautiful than a freshly machined piece of quality steel! I guess I'm just wired a little differently? I just can't help it. Some people go nuts over fresh baked bread (I've got that bug too) but, for me, it's fresh cut steel! :)
Hello from Germany when we do work like this we do the big work first without center the rod an keep 5 mm to the end up measurement. That normally removes the material stress free... Keep up the excellent work you do...
Happy new year! You and your Mrs's make a fantastic team! Keep up the good work. Give wonder mutt an extra bone for keeping everything running smoothly.
I really like your videos. I admire your work ethic and drive to get the job done right. You remind me of my dad, who was a genius with machinery just like you. I have learned so much from you. KEEP DOING THESE IMPOSSIBLE REPAIRS AND POSTING VIDEOS..
Hello from Northern Ireland, I’m a machinist in a heavy engineering shop and we do lots of screen shafts for the quarry’s! We would normally use a 4 jaw Chuck when machining them and we don’t get a lot of runout maybe 0.2mm
Happy new year, the quality of the steel makes a big difference, I remember years ago talking to a guy that sold lowboy trailers for hauling heavy equipment and one place that was building the trailer was using a cheap grade of steel and the trailers was breaking in half ,
New to this channel. Been playing catch up with your previous vids. So much better than listening to 30 mins of part and stock numbers. Just gets on the job! Love the technical explanations at the end of each vid.
Your fun to watch. I really enough your expertise. I have zero in this field but I always try to guess the correct way to repair the part. I don’t think I’ve been right yet. I have learned what not to do. When 2 pieces of metal break I always assumed you just put it back together and weld it.
Good thing you have an understanding customer and supplier, if that was here it would be all the machinist fault and you would not be able to convince them different. Great video, and I have to admire the way you approach the job and do the machining. Happy New Year and all the best in 2021
FYI I love the intro to this episode. So we could watch out for things going wrong. Also I love seeing the videos when things do not go to plan. I know it's unfortunate for you guys, but I love seeing how things going wrong gets handled. Thank you!
It was good to see your security officer come by for a consultation in trying to figure out a way to salvage that material. Here is hoping that 2021 will be a better year for all of us.
Happy new year sir.... Thanks....... In South Africa we would have 15 people do what you single handedly did. I like this......... Nobody to blame for shoddy workmanship, because it's done properly the first time round .... Thanks for the video...
Man dealing with you on a problem material must be a hell of a thing. You are so exact in what you do. These would be all precise answers. leaving no wiggle room for vender.
I like your explanation on a quick fix or cheaper fix is not always in the customers best interest . but its amazing how many companys will cut corners doing jobs and then not stand behind there work. And if a customer wants corners cut well then its on them.
Hey buddy. Love your videos! When I was running big open manual and cnc lathes we always would make or have a chip shield that would rest using magnets on the tool post to deflect the chips into the bin. Makes life much easier for cleanup time!
we've ran into that before with castings, we had to rough them, flip, rough some more, stress relieve them, semi finish, heat treat, then finish them. the worst part was every one wanted to warp in a different direction
Gotta love it when the customer supplies his own “low grade” material to save money... Was roughing out a customer supplied tool steel shaft on a lathe when it broke apart during a cut. Apparently the shaft was welded together and machined sometime in the past....
Had to make a Lathe for my final trade test and welded up the headstock then heat treated it for stress relief and the thing warped a little when i bored out each ends bearing housing. Steal stress relieves when machining. Just as oxycutting a straight line the steel relieves and bends.
Great to be here again, almost 4 years later. Sit back and enjoy the show is how I am doing on a near blizzardy day. Nice chip control. Hard on the boot soles though. When it came back worse than nit was must have been dis hartening. Such a total loss of time and resorses eh.
I've been machining for years and never seen it, although I must say I've never machines a bar that size from stock. I've done repair work but never from blank
@@GeneralG1810 I've worked oil field equipment, I've seen it before, but very rarely. Almost always comes back that the material didn't meet heat treat requirements, or the metallurgy was a bit off.
I am in awe of Karen’s editing skills… Just awesome work, wish my wife could do this kind of work too. So BRAVO Karen for your work and skills…👍👍👍💯💯💯👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
Worked around equipment and machinery my whole life, never machining though. The quality and level of work you do is next level. It seems controlling variables is a huge part of your trade. Obviously you can’t control the stock you’re provided. Can’t “polish a turd” as the saying goes! Looking forward to a lot more of your quality work and videos! Happy New Year!
Your dog is so cute and so sweet. I like every moment of his videos. It feels like a stress relieving moments during machining process...Great video by the way and I do learn a lot from you.
I'm retired and from my work experience in the IT industry I've realised there are three levels of quality control in overseas manufacturing. Accept/Reject/Australia (there so far away they'll learn to fix our mistakes). Happy New Year to you also David
Watch a bunch of your videos, so I subscribed.🇨🇦 Fantastic machinist, brilliant camera lady and a cool dog. Do love the outtakes you do at the end of your videos, awesome, wish you lots of success with your business and your UA-cam.
5:16 - such a good call NOT to just automatically reach over the spinning workpiece. It's easy to get cavalier and forget safety because you're used to something. I just freakin' drilled through my left hand this morning (just the outer edge) because I was being hasty. Sheesh!
@Cutting Edge Engineering Australia, I'm glad that I'm not the only one who has their favourite swarf, I wasn't going to tell anyone about it as I thought that it was kinda weird! I've noticed that ABomb also keeps his favourite swarf too, but his swarf weighs 75 grams or 0.165347 bananas!
Ohhh a part 2 ! Dose he sort it out ? Or dose he have to start again ? Dose Curtis loose his shit ? What’s the pup going to wear ? And will the floor ever be finish sweeping . Now we have to tune back in to find out all the details ! I’ll be back :-)
Awesome videos Kurtis I just found your channel and as a machinist in the states I'm impressed with your know how and machinery, as well I collect ball caps I'd love to get into contact and get myself one of those CCE hats if you send them out thanks
Welcome to the world of woodworking! Unless the seasoning process is done carefully, wood is very prone to built in tension. Which can make machining operations quite exciting if the material tightens onto the blade during a saw cut.
I had some fiberglass tubing literally come apart like a spring once. When I talked to the manufacturer he said it was from the end of a production run where the weaving mechanism has to turn around before making another pass.
Compliments of the new year.such material need proper procedures to achieve quality. You need to premachine it close to size and take it off the machine for a day to give material room to react(stress relief.usually expose it to the sun) then machine it to size and also watch not to exerts too much force on the running centre. Thats my daily bread stuff. Hahahah
Hello I enjoy watching your videos. This is the second time I have seen the problem with warping of turned parts. I am 100% sure that it is due to the lack of good cooling of the workpiece that the workpiece is stretched out and bent so you get the problem with shaft runout. Judging by the fact that the chips turn blue after machining the parts, that means heating to about 600°. Be sure to take care of the strong cooling with coolant the problem will disappear I assure you the whole problem with overheated parts it elongates and deforms. Regards Sergey
Happens that way occasionally, the material coming through these days leaves a lot to be desired. I just scraped a part in 300 series stainless last week that sprang after half a day in the mill. Sucks, but it happens. I've done a few large flail grinder shafts that have had the same issues with cracking at the shoulder. Most of the time the manufacturer didn't use a large enough radius in the shoulder. Either that or the shaft had a sharp undercut in the transition.
Hey mate thanks for watching, interesting how many can relate and have had such issues with materials, yeah we increased the size of the radius on the shaft in part 2
Hi Kurtis, I noticed that you chipped away half a ton of material on this project. You may want to consider using a bandsaw set set up on your lathe to do some rough axial trimming of the material before you start turning. Just put the shaft on the steady rest, make a radial cut and then do 6 cutaways on the free end. It is unconventional but effective. You will end up with 6 chunks of high quality steel that might be of use elsewhere and you will not spend days to pulverize more than 50% of your shaft. It should save some time, some turning bits and a lot of money on your electricity bill. kind regards from Germany, Klaus
Hey viewers Happy New Year! Our first video for 2021 is part 1 of machining a new shaft for a 1000hp tree grinder. This did not go as expected and we had some serious issues with the material. Hope you enjoy the video 😎👍
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Is this something that the material supplier would replace at their cost?
Think about it though, the poor shaft is in for a life of grinding stumps, was there anything wrong with the first/original one? it failed, tried to be repaired but failed again....nice and noisy when failing i bet. So it is a crazy job this shaft is asked to do in it's life.
But hypothetically, what if you made a perfect shaft, it could possibly work a tiny bit less efficient then the "banana" you have....as you said, you went for some flex...
I'd like to think it could be worth the punt, what would the cost of labor and material be now, what if it failed after X? hours, what if it worked perfect longer than the original, can it do that much damage running out so little....FOR A TREE GRINDER MAIN SHAFT!!!
How much more labor to finish it, X? more $ but i think it could be worth a try, what bearing can it hurt, what is the perceived problem this would cause...for a tree grinder?
Has the treatment that unfortunately made it worse...also made it stronger now? That could become a benefit for this lump of steel? How balanced is the drum it spins in the first place, could this be a deliberate "banana drum shaft experiment"? So? it could have a weird vibration but all that must become irrelevant once it starts grinding.
One last point maybe, even from 3:50 to 3:59 (nice close up slo mo again but need closer and slower) that shaft was showing it was going to fight, making spring swarf all the way doing that first support groove, it just seems to have wanted to be a lobe...can it be basically flexing your lathe and itself to keep this "imperfection"?
But i still think you give the customer a chance to save as much as possible from the RUD (Rapid Unscheduled Disassembly *Elon) it's good recording your work like this so you can show what happened but why not still try it?
As Woodworker we bump into Problems with stress and bowing quite often. So we use heat treating as well. We heat the wood up to about 1000°C in the stove and this solves any Problem. :-)
But 1000 degrees C would cause the wood to....
Oh. I get it.
Yup! Solves the problem every time. I've also noticed that as the prices for wood increase the more common the problem becomes.
Happy New Year to everyone wherever you happen to be in the world.
Right on.
As I work on making swarm traps from scrap 1/2" ply, I'm come across pieces of warped madrone, and having great success at heat treating. Toasty warm here in Origun, USA. No E. Happy New York 🇺🇲
@@timothyball3144 First Hermann had me like "umm what technique are you using, that would simply create carbon" (im a carpenter but I also deeply dive into new techniques and skills to broaden my knowledge) then I went to comment like yours and foudn your comment. To be fair, he is not wrong. XD
Enjoyed the video about the bent shaft that kept throwing out. I worked on a copper mine in the 70's in Africa and we often made shafts. I remember shaft turning carbon steel pump shafts and larger shafts for the mining operations. With long shafts with a ratio of diameter to length over 1:13 one had to keep turning end for end and between centres. There was no heat treatment, we just kept turning end-for-end with light cuts until the stresses eased out of the shaft. Later in life running my own company similar to yours we found alloy steel shafts needed heat treatment. Not annealing, but stress relieving treatment.
There is a British Standard available I believe, forget the reference number now. We would rough out to plus 10mm on diameters stress relieve 1. then further rough out to plus three mm on diameters and stress relieve 2. and then rough to plus 1mm all over. We would not finish important diameters leaving them to the very last. Where large keyways or drilling operation were involved axially we left bearing diameter's until the keyways had been cut. If a shaft is absolutely critical sometimes it is best to let it rest for a week in the roughed out state in addition to stress relieving.
I found a company in Saudi in the 80's that had spent a lot of work on a large shaft 6" diameter x 6ft long and ground all over which had moved after grinding and the throw was 4/10 thou. That is 0.0004". The shaft had been rejected.
To the comment someone made about cheapskate customers supplying poor quality steel, I would say no billet or bar is always perfect. I have had to reject stainless steel bars with cracks in the core. It's part of life I guess.
I'm not familiar with the steel designations given in the video I only remember the British EN series. From memory the most stable steel available for shaft turning, steel that did not move, was EN14. It's tensile strength is little better than 20 carbon steel i.e. 20 tons tensile, but it is stable and easy to cut, also resistant to cracking.
Customers often choose better quality steel for a job, but it is not always better, the steel has to suit the application. I remember a customer coming to me in desperation, he had used every type of alloy steel for a railway application where there was heavy vibration. We eventually tried structural steel grade 43A and it lasted 20 years. No cracking and the welds held.
I think you could save a lot of time by buying a small horizonal milling machine for boring out gussets and beating. The Cincinnati 2E is ideal for such things and bigger millers for the larger work. I am very impressed however with the automatic welding device for line boring.
I've been retired now 20 years, and I suppose I miss the old machine shop work. But better to watch your videos.
Best wishes, your videos are fascinating and I have earned a lot from watching.
Awesome story, thank you for sharing!
I've probably spent less than 10 hours running a lathe, and I'm probably wrong, but, when you started cutting, the free end had obviously quite a bit of runout. Thats fine because there was plenty to remove. I think the problem didn't occur until you flipped it. You should have adjusted the chuck for zero runout on the indicator, left the steady rest where it was, and all the runout would have transferred to the free end. Same as before.
I'm sure sometimes material will spring after removing a good portion, but in this case i think it was operator error.
You’ve learned a lot?!? That’s very humble, and a real compliment to Kurtis.
And yeah, we always miss the shop.
That's one hell of a Welsh name you got there, mate.
Great comment! 👏👏👏
Just came across your channel and enjoy the content. I’m a manual machinist and make these shafts often and can keep them running within .001” the whole way but they can be very temperamental .Couple things I have found/been taught.
Number 1: 4 jaw
Number 2: face up the ends of the shaft and have it banked against something solid in chuck
Number 3: rough in the big OD the length of the shaft before turning the ends. For one it gets all the stress out from the beginning that’s in that top layer. It also reduces the size of the square shoulder which will warp the shaft
Number 4: step in your radius while roughing so it looks like a staircase. This will help with the large square shoulder and help keep it from moving. Radius will always fit under a 45% angle. Say you are taking 0.100” perside when you get to the end of your cut stop 0.100” sooner the next pass until then go step it down some more when done roughing before finish passes. With a radius that big on a shaft of that length you want the radius on both ends roughed in before finishing either side or you will risk bending it.
Number 5: gotta be careful with the steady rest can bend them with that also.
Number 6: I scraped one the other week because I got some unexpected taper on my last pass.
Besides that nice work and I envy your lathe. I make them on a 1940s 20” American. That rapid traverse on the carriage, DRO and the chuck for the tail stock make me drool.
@Devin Shock I've never seen Kurtis talk about runout on his scroll Chuck, but on these large shafts I imagine a 4 jaw would be better, and your advice about the steps in the shoulder seem sound. I watch ABOM 79 on UA-cam (Adam Booth) and he does or has done many gearbox shafts of that length and girth and he uses the same techniques that you mention. Kurtis is a great machinist no doubt, but I think he would benefit from being a little more patient in his techniques. It seems he is always looking for the fastest way to get it done, which is great for his shop, as he appears to be a one man crew, but the fastest way is not always the right way, especially in manual machining large shafts, or machining in general for that matter. Enjoyed the video. Sometimes it does not matter your technique, a shaft can just be to out of wack. Strange though, I've never seen Adam Booth have this issue, and while I've not seen all his videos, I've seen a lot, and many are of this type of machining, and on much older machines!
Many milled parts are roughed out before normalizing. I have even hung vertically positioned while HTing.
Crazy seeing how much progression you've made behind and in-front of the camera! Always tune in every week to watch!
Enjoy your videos . Your explaining each step of the job is great. My grandpa was a machinist for the Pennsylvania Railroad in 1937 to 1960. He was excellent at his trade. Had his own lathe & tools , unheard of in those days. No one but he could use it. He was that good. He would have loved to see you work. Love your pup...your wife is great behind the camera, you’re a good team. God Bless
Hi.
The problems you have had are due to the stresses caused by turning in the material.
It is normal. But to avoid so many problems, you should do the centering points later. The material is always going to twist. It is a material of a very high quality and resistance. I really like the tailstock grip plate.
From Spain, greetings. Very good work and very good channel!
Hey mate, I’m an Aussie, not a machinist. But I have recently found your channel and have watched them all in a couple days. Love your work and genuine skills. If only I could turn back time, I’d love to do what you do and the skills you have. Thankyou!
I remember the first machine shop I worked at and one of the things they made were impeller shafts about 10 feet long and about 3 inches in diameter made out of 4140. They would always warp .050-.100 once rough machined and left over night due to the fact the steel isn't stress relieved.
Left overnight in an oven, I hope.
Interesting to see how different shops use different ideas to do the same type of job and I enjoyed seeing how you got it done.
I used to do large commutator shafts of a similar size, and we had a few rules....
1. No steady rest adjacent to the live centre.
2. Kept looking for another steady rest.
3. Span of less than 2 metres between Chuck/Live centre and steady rests, adding a second steady rest as required.
4. Opposing interrupted cuts for the two steady rests meant that we could send the material back.
That interrupted cut behind the steady rest along the unsupported centre section had my teeth on edge...some evidence of sagging at the 12:00 mark.
Building up heat in the work piece could explain some of your later run out issues as due to the thickness it likely wasn't heat treated fully before hand.
Thanks again for an enjoyable video.
What are the pointers to sagging at the 12 min mark?
@@georgemarshall6657 That, I also would like to know!
@@1kleineMax1 A few seconds later i can hear the sound of the cutting ocillating up and down which suggests the cut is getting deeper and shallower once per rotation which means something is going on with the peice as the cut sound on anything other than a cleaup pass should be fairly consistent as you should be removing an equal amount of metal all around the work peice
@@georgemarshall6657 A few seconds later i can hear the sound of the cutting ocillating up and down which suggests the cut is getting deeper and shallower once per rotation which means something is going on with the peice as the cut sound on anything other than a cleaup pass should be fairly consistent as you should be removing an equal amount of metal all around the work peice
on long shaft I always turn steady band closest to the chuck first and work towards the tail with at least 3 bands Always 2 cuts to cut steady band. Lastly re-machine the centre. repeat this process a number of times depending on the diameter and metal to be removed rough out the entire shaft first and allow to cool. Machine new steady bands and centres again before finishing.
Just my way. hope it helps someone.
I just retired from a machine shop in Philadelphia. After rough machining we always send in out to be stress relieved , before final machining.
Stress relief before machining a large-diameter shaft is an essential step to minimize distortions during the machining process and to maintain dimensional accuracy. This is especially important for large shafts because internal stresses from manufacturing processes, such as forging, casting, or welding, can cause warping or deformation when material is removed.
### Steps for Stress Relief:
1. **Material Selection:**
- Understand the material properties of the shaft (e.g., steel grade, hardness, and alloy composition).
- Some materials are more prone to stress buildup than others.
2. **Stress-Relief Heat Treatment:**
- Heat the shaft uniformly to a specific temperature, depending on the material:
- For steel, stress relief typically occurs between **550-650°C (1022-1202°F)**.
- Hold the temperature for an adequate soak time (usually 1-2 hours per inch of thickness).
- Cool the shaft slowly, preferably in the furnace or in still air, to avoid introducing new stresses.
3. **Pre-Machining Stress Relief (if necessary):**
- After rough machining, conduct another stress relief heat treatment to eliminate stresses introduced during the initial shaping.
4. **Machining Considerations:**
- Ensure uniform material removal on all sides to minimize distortion.
- Use balanced fixturing to avoid introducing clamping stresses.
5. **Post-Machining Stress Relief (if applicable):**
- For components requiring high precision, a final stress relief cycle after machining can help stabilize the material.
6. **Shot Peening or Vibratory Stress Relief (Optional):**
- Shot peening introduces surface compression to reduce the risk of warping.
- Vibratory stress relief uses mechanical vibrations to redistribute residual stresses and is an alternative to thermal methods.
By following these steps, you can significantly reduce the risk of deformation and achieve high dimensional accuracy in your large-diameter shaft.
That was just insane. The amount of work that goes into thinning that rod and turning the whole thing is crazy. You are amazing!
I am very much an amateur at machining. I have a small 9x16 homemade metal lathe. No power feed. No change gears. But i have run into problems like this, only i did Not know enough, to know what was going on. Now i do, so thanks, it explains a lot. I have run into internal stresses a lot in woodworking, but never thought about it being in steel. Your Vids have taught me a lot, and given me a lot of ideas too. So thanks...........
9 and a half banana's... spot on !
😂👍
& 2,000+ lbs, that is bananas!
>bananas
i see Kurtis uses the Imgur scale of measurement.
At least he didn't use precision guesswork.
Listen, I'm a machinist from America and I can tell you that is pretty funny. Waiting for the attempts to say standard is better than metric.
Seeing you work is a pleasure to behold! You use numerical control machinery with disarming ease! You are not afraid of any job, you are humble and honest. Best wishes for a 2024 full of beautiful things for you and my lady. A hug to "homeless" ❤️❤️❤️
The way this year has gone.... This is about what id expect.
yep my exspirience too you get a broken shaft its going nowhere good no fucking way no matter how strong you make it i had the same problem on a industreal drill press 500 euros secend hand 2 days in shaft breaks new motor 100 euros through the magic of machining i fucked it every way possibel and got it to work INBUS kv10.9 /24x100 br din912
LOL!!!
I hear ya!
The machinist is a real pro. Such exacting work and knowledge to machine these parts is really impressive.
15:55 One thing I've learned over the years, don't ever slide the end with a run-out into the 3-jaw chuck. First of all there's no way to check the end of the shaft and second, the 3-jaws will try to move the run-out in different direction. As someone mentioned before 4-jaw chuck and working between centers is your best bet. But if it turns out that it's some shitty material, then there isn't much you can do.
I think your 3 jaws chuck is running out of center, I have some experience with these shafts and I do not trust but my 4 jaws chuck, I would say too, that your lathe needs more power and better bedways
well, his method worked and thats what matters so... if it aint broke dont fix it
Really enjoyable to watch Curtis go about his work. A real craftsman!
Your Lathe-cooling is special. I have always cooled the HSS turning tools, drills, center drills etc. directly and sufficiently and never the workpiece itself. You want to protect the cutting edges from wear with it. Aluminum with a petrol can and a brush. We didn't cool the carbide plates at all or as much as you can't with your lathe cooling system. HSS turning tools are considerably cheaper and can be reground numerous times. You will need a chip hook to remove the chips without cutting yourself. The measuring instruments are always read directly on the workpiece and not after it has been removed. This is not meant to be a teaching, we just learned it in apprenticeship training. Keep up the good work, be careful with the machines, avoid working alone with the machines and it's exciting to watch.
Happy new year mate,
I used to machine shafts similar to this one that you are making, we used to rough it out to within .250" all over and then let it sit and normalize for at least 3-4 weeks( its a long time if the shaft was needed ASAP), then do the finishing using minimum radius tooling to eliminate tool pressure on the job.
we did as much as we could possible with the part setup without flipping it.
TIR we used to get this way was within .002-.003 on the 96" length.
Best Regards.
You two put a great video together. I always wondered how these giant machines worked and how they get repaired in a shop, etc. From Detroit, thanks for the look into the how to's.
I can tell Your a Good machinist hence looks like You've been doing it all Your life thumbs up
I'm missing Abom79 heavy machining video ! You guys are awesome !
So nice to watch a tradesperson work. Taking your time and doing it safe
.... nothing more beautiful than a freshly machined piece of quality steel! I guess I'm just wired a little differently?
I just can't help it. Some people go nuts over fresh baked bread (I've got that bug too) but, for me, it's fresh cut steel! :)
For me it is freshly cut Ceratapetulum Apetalum (Scented Satinwood) - en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ceratopetalum_apetalum
Hello from Germany when we do work like this we do the big work first without center the rod an keep 5 mm to the end up measurement. That normally removes the material stress free... Keep up the excellent work you do...
Happy new year! You and your Mrs's make a fantastic team! Keep up the good work. Give wonder mutt an extra bone for keeping everything running smoothly.
Thanks for watching mate appreciate it!
Thank you for showing us the issues that are acquainted with doing such a job look forward to seeing how this would be handled
I really like your videos. I admire your work ethic and drive to get the job done right. You remind me of my dad, who was a genius with machinery just like you. I have learned so much from you. KEEP DOING THESE IMPOSSIBLE REPAIRS AND POSTING VIDEOS..
Hello from Northern Ireland, I’m a machinist in a heavy engineering shop and we do lots of screen shafts for the quarry’s! We would normally use a 4 jaw Chuck when machining them and we don’t get a lot of runout maybe 0.2mm
Strange last name there, you a red coat?
I just want to say that I love your videos. The work you do is first rate and extremely interesting.
Happy new year, the quality of the steel makes a big difference, I remember years ago talking to a guy that sold lowboy trailers for hauling heavy equipment and one place that was building the trailer was using a cheap grade of steel and the trailers was breaking in half ,
@denny Barton, the quality of the raw materials makes the end product! That goes for everything in life! You should see my ex-wife!
Thanks!
Hey Kevin thanks for the contribution mate!
That was a kick in the nads, looked like the heat was coming off in the chips really well, great video.
Thanks for watching mate 😎👍
That's pretty nice the customer supplied the material for the replacement shaft.
New to this channel. Been playing catch up with your previous vids. So much better than listening to 30 mins of part and stock numbers. Just gets on the job! Love the technical explanations at the end of each vid.
Your fun to watch. I really enough your expertise. I have zero in this field but I always try to guess the correct way to repair the part. I don’t think I’ve been right yet. I have learned what not to do. When 2 pieces of metal break I always assumed you just put it back together and weld it.
Good thing you have an understanding customer and supplier, if that was here it would be all the machinist fault and you would not be able to convince them different. Great video, and I have to admire the way you approach the job and do the machining. Happy New Year and all the best in 2021
I'm not convinced, but I would be if I was able to take some temperature readings while that bar was being worked on.
To prove what Jules?
I have ran many jobs that other shops couldn’t run by utilizing proper heat treating for that job.
If you take cuts that keep most of the heat in the chip and not the work, that might help.
FYI I love the intro to this episode. So we could watch out for things going wrong. Also I love seeing the videos when things do not go to plan. I know it's unfortunate for you guys, but I love seeing how things going wrong gets handled. Thank you!
It was good to see your security officer come by for a consultation in trying to figure out a way to salvage that material.
Here is hoping that 2021 will be a better year for all of us.
Happy new year sir.... Thanks....... In South Africa we would have 15 people do what you single handedly did. I like this......... Nobody to blame for shoddy workmanship, because it's done properly the first time round .... Thanks for the video...
That's an incredible warp... almost doesn't seem possible that it's that bad right next to the chuck (17:12).
All that for one rod. Really makes one appreciate how much effort it's taken to build the modern world. amazing.
8:36 Shop dog. Best part! Happy dog.
Man dealing with you on a problem material must be a hell of a thing. You are so exact in what you do. These would be all precise answers. leaving no wiggle room for vender.
There is something about watching milling that is relaxing to me. Thanks for the great video!
Awesome video! Never would have guessed internal stresses could be THAT bad.
I like your explanation on a quick fix or cheaper fix is not always in the customers best interest . but its amazing how many companys will cut corners doing jobs and then not stand behind there work. And if a customer wants corners cut well then its on them.
I really enjoy watching you guys perform your magic. Thanks for sharing this with me.
Hey buddy. Love your videos! When I was running big open manual and cnc lathes we always would make or have a chip shield that would rest using magnets on the tool post to deflect the chips into the bin. Makes life much easier for cleanup time!
I worked at a company called SANDVIK and i made the powder for cutting tools, different powders for different tools.
Nice one 😎👍
Hey, I bet a lot of people watching have used Sandvic tooling.
Awesome videos ! Thumbs up to the lady who did the video. Great quality. Good to such skills. All best !!
we've ran into that before with castings, we had to rough them, flip, rough some more, stress relieve them, semi finish, heat treat, then finish them. the worst part was every one wanted to warp in a different direction
Gotta love it when the customer supplies his own “low grade” material to save money...
Was roughing out a customer supplied tool steel shaft on a lathe when it broke apart during a cut.
Apparently the shaft was welded together and machined sometime in the past....
The bloopers are amazing :) Love this!
Very interesting hearing the original material weight and the finished part weight showing how much material will be take off.
Interesting method. Put 10 tradies in a room and everyone will have their style of machining.👍
I put three tradies in a room and ended up with five opinions. Worked a treat!
I learned from old tool and die makers...they threw my mistakes across the sho...lol
Had to make a Lathe for my final trade test and welded up the headstock then heat treated it for stress relief and the thing warped a little when i bored out each ends bearing housing. Steal stress relieves when machining. Just as oxycutting a straight line the steel relieves and bends.
I love the raw clips at the end lol
Great to be here again, almost 4 years later. Sit back and enjoy the show is how I am doing on a near blizzardy day. Nice chip control. Hard on the boot soles though. When it came back worse than nit was must have been dis hartening. Such a total loss of time and resorses eh.
That's amazing I had no idea that could happen
Thanks for watching mate
I've been machining for years and never seen it, although I must say I've never machines a bar that size from stock. I've done repair work but never from blank
@@GeneralG1810 quite common with bright mild steel rectangular section, less so with round.
@@chrisstephens6673 Wow poor Kurtis that was HOURS of machine time just wasted
@@GeneralG1810 I've worked oil field equipment, I've seen it before, but very rarely. Almost always comes back that the material didn't meet heat treat requirements, or the metallurgy was a bit off.
I am in awe of Karen’s editing skills… Just awesome work, wish my wife could do this kind of work too. So BRAVO Karen for your work and skills…👍👍👍💯💯💯👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
What I like most about your videos is your dog. He is great. Greetings from Tampico, Mexico
Worked around equipment and machinery my whole life, never machining though. The quality and level of work you do is next level. It seems controlling variables is a huge part of your trade. Obviously you can’t control the stock you’re provided. Can’t “polish a turd” as the saying goes! Looking forward to a lot more of your quality work and videos! Happy New Year!
Hey mate thanks for watching appreciate the support 😎👍
... the saying is you CAN polish a turd though
You can't polish a turd.
But you can roll it in glitter.
@@carbunkle9902 didnt we just go over this? you CAN polish a turd
@@bmxscape Send it off to the baby shoe people and have it bronzed. Then polish.
Your dog is so cute and so sweet. I like every moment of his videos. It feels like a stress relieving moments during machining process...Great video by the way and I do learn a lot from you.
Ahhhh....the sound of the metal squealing as it’s cut by the carbide, all day long. I love it.
Glad you enjoyed it mate
It’s pretty neat that your lighting makes it look like copper.
I'm retired and from my work experience in the IT industry I've realised there are three levels of quality control in overseas manufacturing. Accept/Reject/Australia (there so far away they'll learn to fix our mistakes).
Happy New Year to you also
David
Watch a bunch of your videos, so I subscribed.🇨🇦
Fantastic machinist, brilliant camera lady and a cool dog.
Do love the outtakes you do at the end of your videos, awesome, wish you lots of success with your business and your UA-cam.
What a video, bloody banana bar, can’t wait for part 2. Hopefully take 2 runs truer
Happy new new year to you and the team🎉🐕
5:16 - such a good call NOT to just automatically reach over the spinning workpiece. It's easy to get cavalier and forget safety because you're used to something. I just freakin' drilled through my left hand this morning (just the outer edge) because I was being hasty. Sheesh!
"My favourite piece of swarf". I laughed like an idiot for at least a minute.....
Happy new year Kurtis and Mrs Kurtis. I hope things go well in 2021.
Hey mate hahaaa glad you liked that one I'm still dirty on her for throwing it away 🤣
@@CuttingEdgeEngineering "How could you? My Mum gave that to me!" 🤣🤣
@@CuttingEdgeEngineering Worse! It was obviously your LUCKY piece of swarf, & hence the steel banana
@Cutting Edge Engineering Australia, I'm glad that I'm not the only one who has their favourite swarf, I wasn't going to tell anyone about it as I thought that it was kinda weird! I've noticed that ABomb also keeps his favourite swarf too, but his swarf weighs 75 grams or 0.165347 bananas!
Just fascinating to watch!!!!! All math, laying out, measuring!! Master craftsman in all aspects.
Ohhh a part 2 ! Dose he sort it out ? Or dose he have to start again ? Dose Curtis loose his shit ?
What’s the pup going to wear ?
And will the floor ever be finish sweeping .
Now we have to tune back in to find out all the details !
I’ll be back :-)
Lol
Do you do the narration/voice over for 'Outback Opal Hunters' by any chance?
@@TrevorDennis100 No, they all sound like that. LOL
Does...not dose...do you even grammar?
Really nice workmanship !
Awesome videos Kurtis I just found your channel and as a machinist in the states I'm impressed with your know how and machinery, as well I collect ball caps I'd love to get into contact and get myself one of those CCE hats if you send them out thanks
These are some of the best videos on UA-cam!!!
As a stonemason, this type of thing was a real downer, totally pull down and rebuild.
Love the way that refer to imperial measurements. Got my xmas viewing sorted anyway, going through all of your vids.
That's a 2020 piece of rod, you should've waited for the 2021 model 😂
Ha, ha... laughed my arse off! 🤣🤣🤣
Yup, exactly, should've waited. LOL
Better make that an 2022 rod. At least, if it's an European model :)
2021 are difficult to machine.
have you bot heard of chip shortage?.
I am glad you let us know why that would keep getting run out in it. For the life of me I could not figure out why it would have done that.
At the end..looks like Homie was running off to use the dunny really bad!
Hahaaa exactly what he was doing 😂😂😂
I thought the gut truck rocked up. "Cmon dad fuck ya I am starving,!,,,"
Welcome to the world of woodworking! Unless the seasoning process is done carefully, wood is very prone to built in tension.
Which can make machining operations quite exciting if the material tightens onto the blade during a saw cut.
I’m at the point now where I click like on your videos before they even start! Happy new year guys!
legend thanks mate we appreciate all the likes!
Sometimes I wish UA-cam had an "auto like" feature.
you have many skills, but with the right tools it seems much easier...great job
"Turns out it had too much Mitsubishi in it" LMFAO haha
Staring at my 2 1996 eclipses in the garage right now with the motors torn all apart. Now I can’t stop laughing 😂
I had some fiberglass tubing literally come apart like a spring once. When I talked to the manufacturer he said it was from the end of a production run where the weaving mechanism has to turn around before making another pass.
4340 always moves. Its always best to rough it out leave 10mm then stress relief, or stress relief before any machining.
You both are outstanding! Karen with the videos and Kurtis a genius! What a cool DAWG!!!! btw! super videos!
Compliments of the new year.such material need proper procedures to achieve quality. You need to premachine it close to size and take it off the machine for a day to give material room to react(stress relief.usually expose it to the sun) then machine it to size and also watch not to exerts too much force on the running centre.
Thats my daily bread stuff. Hahahah
Hello I enjoy watching your videos. This is the second time I have seen the problem with warping of turned parts. I am 100% sure that it is due to the lack of good cooling of the workpiece that the workpiece is stretched out and bent so you get the problem with shaft runout. Judging by the fact that the chips turn blue after machining the parts, that means heating to about 600°. Be sure to take care of the strong cooling with coolant the problem will disappear I assure you the whole problem with overheated parts it elongates and deforms. Regards Sergey
Happens that way occasionally, the material coming through these days leaves a lot to be desired. I just scraped a part in 300 series stainless last week that sprang after half a day in the mill. Sucks, but it happens.
I've done a few large flail grinder shafts that have had the same issues with cracking at the shoulder. Most of the time the manufacturer didn't use a large enough radius in the shoulder. Either that or the shaft had a sharp undercut in the transition.
Hey mate thanks for watching, interesting how many can relate and have had such issues with materials, yeah we increased the size of the radius on the shaft in part 2
Hi Kurtis, I noticed that you chipped away half a ton of material on this project. You may want to consider using a bandsaw set set up on your lathe to do some rough axial trimming of the material before you start turning. Just put the shaft on the steady rest, make a radial cut and then do 6 cutaways on the free end. It is unconventional but effective. You will end up with 6 chunks of high quality steel that might be of use elsewhere and you will not spend days to pulverize more than 50% of your shaft. It should save some time, some turning bits and a lot of money on your electricity bill. kind regards from Germany, Klaus
Lathe: Cuts a piece of metal
UA-cam: [Music]
2:21 Lifting metal
UA-cam: [Applause]
Hands down, Kerney & Trecker is the best brand of milling machine ever made.
Awsome. Love your work. Hopefully 2021 treats you well.
Thanks mate same to you
Wow. Expensive piece of scrap metal. I learned a lot from this.
I'm wondering, what is the approximate cost of that rod (raw material) down under where you are?
I have the same question 😏
Working in a submarine build yard years ago we would install the turbine shafts! Took so long to machine a perfect shaft that long.