i had this on my rack years ago, when parts were plentiful and i knew plenty of people who cold operate spanners who managed it with relative ease in their fully comprehensive workshops trying to do the same thing on my driveway is daunting
Good Video Craig, i remember when i was doing mine on my mk3 ST220 what a pain of a job but can be done at home. covered it on my own channel. Nice work
Just an advice from my experience... Always use impact when loosening the subframe bolts. Impact won't rip the catch nut inside the frame out, when the bolt is seized in. Constant excessive torque will do. It did on mine car... I will now never use breakerbar on these.. Cutting the frame and welding them back on ain't some funny stuff to do..
I would like to point out that you really should replace those orings. They tend to shrink over time and leak as a result of that. Last year I did my Fiesta's rack and those orings were dirt cheap from the dealer (6 euros) so it makes no sense not to replace them. So if you're considering doing the job: buy new orings.
Lol 14:15 bastard that’s what I’m Thinking that’s made my day I’m Doing mine tomorrow on transit connect looks the same mines leaking from pion So I’ve got a second hand one
You are meant to take all the weight off the rear subframe bolts with a jack before undoing them, failing to do that is what causes the vast amount of people to spin the captive nut inside the body.
@@CraigsDIY Not sure you understand what I mean, in this video you cracked the rear subframe bolts with no support before you put a jack under the subframe, you should never do this and a jack should be placed under them and raised to the point where its taking all the weight before cracking the bolts, failure to do this risks tearing the captive nut from its mounting.
Hi, I watch your videos, a lot of useful information. I drive a Mondeo MK3 1.8 Duratec, the problem is that when the engine is warmed up, it starts the second time. double start problem, many mondeos have this problem, do you know how to fix it?
Just curious - did you have the notch/clunk when turning the steering left/right from dead centre which would generally ease once the car had been running a while? And if so, did this resolve the issue?
I didn't personally but I know what you mean, common complaint on the Mondeo. A proper central 'notch' will be the rack I'm afraid. The steering wheel compensator shaft can also give you problems so it's worth regreasing it, esp. if never done. (See video linked in desc). When you disconnect from the rack you can also test it as it's isolated. If it seems to be the rack, before ordering in a new one, also want to jack front up and disconnect tie rods to eliminate possible suspension issues and totally isolate the rack - if you can still feel it then you've got the right video. GL
They look nice in UA-cam videos don't they? In practice very hard to use on many (most!) bolts on a car. The hard ones in this job are the rack bolts themselves, because of lack of access.
hi mate, cheers for the video, solid job that. Wanted to ask you if you had any power steering before replacement? Got mondeo tdci and no power steering whatsoever had pump changed but still same thing
Yes I just had movement in the rack. You have no power assist but steering still ok? You will have to check pressure in the lines, either blockage or serious failure in the rack.
Hello is this Generation of Mondeo nade in USA I have seen that they have been built in Belgium, Vietman and China. Greetings we had from 2004 we have sold it, and we had a problem when the car was cold grinding sound of steering from lock to lock. Greetings from Bosnia.
Hello, I am an Amazon seller. We have a digital torque wrench that is perfect for your channel, would you be interested in shooting a test video for us?
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Great video , you provide valuable information for Mondeo owners. thanks
Fair play to you, Craig, for doing this job yourself. If this were me, I'd probably just give up and get ripped off by a mechanic lol
Not gonna lie but you are a God of Mondeo. You are making far better videos than auto doc. Cheers Mate
i had this on my rack years ago, when parts were plentiful and i knew plenty of people who cold operate spanners who managed it with relative ease in their fully comprehensive workshops
trying to do the same thing on my driveway is daunting
Good Video Craig, i remember when i was doing mine on my mk3 ST220 what a pain of a job but can be done at home. covered it on my own channel. Nice work
always fully detailed videos which you rarely get you have helped me do repairs over the years THANKS CRAIG KEEP IT UP ITS APPRECIATED BUDDY
Great video! Perfectly detailed
Excellent video! What impressive attention to detail, very erudite too. May it stay this way for long in your life. Best regards.
I subscribed at the little bastard comment! 😄
Just an advice from my experience... Always use impact when loosening the subframe bolts. Impact won't rip the catch nut inside the frame out, when the bolt is seized in. Constant excessive torque will do. It did on mine car... I will now never use breakerbar on these.. Cutting the frame and welding them back on ain't some funny stuff to do..
incredible! you'r the man.
I love the posh voice.
I would like to point out that you really should replace those orings. They tend to shrink over time and leak as a result of that.
Last year I did my Fiesta's rack and those orings were dirt cheap from the dealer (6 euros) so it makes no sense not to replace them.
So if you're considering doing the job: buy new orings.
Lol
14:15 bastard that’s what I’m
Thinking that’s made my day I’m
Doing mine tomorrow on transit connect looks the same mines leaking from pion
So I’ve got a second hand one
ty!
brilliant video
You are meant to take all the weight off the rear subframe bolts with a jack before undoing them, failing to do that is what causes the vast amount of people to spin the captive nut inside the body.
Yes definitely don't lower it by undoing the bolts.
@@CraigsDIY Not sure you understand what I mean, in this video you cracked the rear subframe bolts with no support before you put a jack under the subframe, you should never do this and a jack should be placed under them and raised to the point where its taking all the weight before cracking the bolts, failure to do this risks tearing the captive nut from its mounting.
Got Job man ! Great video !
Hi Craig just a quick question, do you do a vid on how to change the front anti roll bar bushes?
Hi, I watch your videos, a lot of useful information. I drive a Mondeo MK3 1.8 Duratec, the problem is that when the engine is warmed up, it starts the second time. double start problem, many mondeos have this problem, do you know how to fix it?
remember RIGHTY TIGHTY first when you're expecting it be really tight
Just curious - did you have the notch/clunk when turning the steering left/right from dead centre which would generally ease once the car had been running a while?
And if so, did this resolve the issue?
I didn't personally but I know what you mean, common complaint on the Mondeo. A proper central 'notch' will be the rack I'm afraid. The steering wheel compensator shaft can also give you problems so it's worth regreasing it, esp. if never done. (See video linked in desc). When you disconnect from the rack you can also test it as it's isolated. If it seems to be the rack, before ordering in a new one, also want to jack front up and disconnect tie rods to eliminate possible suspension issues and totally isolate the rack - if you can still feel it then you've got the right video. GL
Thanks for the reply Craig. Your videos on the Mondeo have been a big help during my ownership of it.
👍👍👍
When you buy so many tools, why not buy a decent battery impact wrench eg from Ingersoll Rand? No fiddling with pipes and ratchets.
They look nice in UA-cam videos don't they? In practice very hard to use on many (most!) bolts on a car. The hard ones in this job are the rack bolts themselves, because of lack of access.
Great video, do you know if there should be play in flexible coupling or should it be solid?
No play but it is per the name a little flexible. If you have actual play (lash) in the coupling then something is wrong and dangerous.
hi mate, cheers for the video, solid job that. Wanted to ask you if you had any power steering before replacement? Got mondeo tdci and no power steering whatsoever had pump changed but still same thing
Yes I just had movement in the rack. You have no power assist but steering still ok? You will have to check pressure in the lines, either blockage or serious failure in the rack.
@@CraigsDIY pressure on the return is great so I doubt it's a blockage. I think the rack is doo doo now
Hello is this Generation of Mondeo nade in USA I have seen that they have been built in Belgium, Vietman and China. Greetings we had from 2004 we have sold it, and we had a problem when the car was cold grinding sound of steering from lock to lock. Greetings from Bosnia.
The Mk3 was not made nor available in the US. My car is ex-Belgium.
Hello, I am an Amazon seller.
We have a digital torque wrench that is perfect for your channel, would you be interested in shooting a test video for us?