Thank you very much for the video! Your videos are really instructive and clear. M2C rules, need to get their droop screws!!! I recently contacted RPM whether they have plans to get out updated A-arms for the exb. They said they are currently working on an update and we might expect it to come out in a couple months time. Let's see.
That's fantastic to hear brother. Appreciate the feedback and glad you are enjoying the channel 😀👍 Good to hear RPM is looking to update there arms, hope they take into consideration the droop screw location because they decided to not even put them on the 8s Arrma Arms which was strange. Might be a while for new 6s arms so hope this technique helps for now. Thanks for your time and see you around brother
Sup Trav, Thanks for coming by. Rooted? Not sure what your trying to say brother. I have the M2C Droop Screws on 7 of my rigs never had a problem going to the moon, but curious what your issue has been? Have you reached out to M2C? Mitch is awesome
The hex part are that thin they snap off very easy bro, common known problem on the forums and Facebook pages. No I haven't contacted m2c, was trying to get them out of my Mojave just last night to put stock ones back in. Good channel tho mate...
Interesting, I reached out to Mitch on this. Haven't had the issue not denying your challenge tho. I wonder if you were using the new black ones or the older silver ones? Thanks for your comment and time
A better fix would be to simply not buy RPM arms until they fix this issue. Otherwise stick with stock arms. RPM always seems to have stronger parts, but they are always off in some way or another.
Agreed brother, This was more a fix if these are the parts you already had.... RPM is just lazy with updating these arms. A shame because their material is perfect for 1/8 scale arms.... 1/5 scale Arrma arms are lacking droop screws your right on that. Hope your enjoying the channel, See ya round brother
Yeah man I don't think so. This video is now kinda outdated as RPM FINALLY updated there Arms to be compatible 100%....its embarrassing how long the took honestly. Glad you enjoyed the video but more so hope your enjoying the channel, see ya round brother
Nice information and video, however you didnt mention that anyone fitting RPM to the rear of the V5/EXB will throw their rear geometry right out, the shock mounting points are totally different and the shocks will lay way lower and more likely to bend shafts.
Fair point brother I talked with Rich on this and he had to drill out the EXB towers to a different position to get them to match up. Maybe for another video. Another guy commented that RPM might be working on an alternate 6s arm? Might be months out though. Tried to make this one more about the droop screw locations Appreciate your time and feedback
hey, yesterday i ripped out and snapped the hinge pin on the rear (6s exb kraton). So i ordered the RPM arms. Now i see your comment. Is this still an issue? If so: Is there a fix to get the geo right again? Im bashing pretty hard and laying the shocks lower is something i need to avoid. Thanks
@@TuneboyR Its still true and no fix unless you can work out correct shock position and then drill new holes in the shock tower. In my opinion there is nothing wrong with the stock arms, hence likely why RPM havent made v5/EXB versions. Best option is to fit better hinge pins, like the M2C tool steel ones or make your own out of 4mm tool steel rods cut to length
Well Brother am back watching UA-cam Videos again 🤗😊🤗😊🤗 still recovering from long Covid brother 😭 and hopefully ill be back soon doing Videos myself 😊 awesome video, i really enjoyed it👍 thanks for sharing 👍 😊 see you soon brother and Keep Safe ❤ 😊🙏
Very helpful videos, it’s obvious you seriously bash👍🏼 I put a 6s Spektrum motor in my Maxx, it lasted about 2 bash sessions, motor ceased with internal rotor all cracked, how do you protect a motor🤷🏼♂️?
Appreciate your time and Sub brother. Motors don't handle 170 degrees plus too well. So if you had too high a gearing for that setup it could have been running too hot. Like if it was running 190-225 it's possible because you don't have a sensor to cut off the esc with it being not stock. When switching things up with the electronics would be good to have a infrared gun on hand to check temps can get on off Amazon or eBay for under $20. Might have to change gearing or add fans for the motor if it's running too hot. I'm guessing that's what happened. Great question and glad your enjoying the channel See ya round brother
Nice tech vid Brother Dennis! The arms don't work correctly anyway with the new V5/EXB Geometry without mods but hopefully RPM will keep up and make a new version soon! I had to engineer a new lower shock hole position on the arm which worked perfect since no EXB arms were available at the time!😝Got me through the bash at least!😊Great vid bro and nice new intro!😎👊🤘🚀🚀
Yeah that's the thing, I thought about putting all that extra "You might have to drill your tower out to match the shock length creating new standoff points" but I was more creating this video to help Mitch out (All them questions "my RPM arms don't work with your chassis") and to help the community. Just didn't have the time to tackle both issues in a video. I did talk about this in 🔸See Discription🔸👍If you want to mention the second part (drill mod) in one of your vids cool and refrence mine people will have a full picture. But apparently RPM is now forced to make new arms and I heard they are..... But that might be a bit. Plenty of dudes have these arms... So hope this still helps. Better than people just blaming M2C for a RPM compatability issue🤔 Appreciate your time friend.... See ya round
@@3SonsRC Yeah hopefully RPM will have a solution soon! Not big on the idea of drilling the tower. Makes a wonky shock setup at the tower👀I showed in one of my EXB vids how to simply modify the arm so everything falls in place. Probably long forgotten vid by now.🤣
This is what happens when you don't wear headphones when you are editing your videos. Background music way too loud. Listener fails to lock on to the commentary. Makes it worse when commentator speaks as quickly as he does.
Appreciate the feedback bro. Sounds good to me but then again I know what I'm saying 😔 so fair point. This video is over a year old and I was messing with different techniques with balance, music, and tempo so it's not too slow.... I believe I have gotten better but feel free to check out some of my newer videos and let me know. Hope to see ya round
Thanks for this hint. I think I have much bigger issues to fix the Sway Bar at the rpm arms because the sway Bar seems to be to short and also the lower pins for suspension are way too long are there some others available?
You need the arrma rear sway bar part number ar330201 and shock mount pin set ar330231 3x21.5mm . Then it all fits but you may not like the sag in the back . I went back to stock . The rpm front arms were spot on . Back not so good. I guess you could change shock position on the tower but it’s a big stuff around and prob get the geometry all out of whack . Good luck dude.
Seems a lot of work and I can’t see that lasting that close to the other hole I would put resin in that old screw hole or just drill out the original hole more to take a much bigger head like a 10mm head
I did mine in like 5 minutes... Takes longer if there on the truck and you have to take them off. Mine have lasted for months haven't moved a bit, and I'm not exactly gentle on my rigs 😉😜🚀🚀😎👍 Appreciate your time and comment, hope your enjoying the channel, see ya round
Hey buddy really good video, bars&tone just gave u a shout out so just wanted to check u out and I'm glad I did, very informative videos .. so I've just sub'd u buddy ... epic 😉👊
Yeah man love his channel... Thanks for coming over. I do a lot of Installs and tips but honestly REALLY love the Bashing side as well... I just put it all out there and people watch what they like.... Appreciate the support my man, thanks for the Sub. Tell your friends, tell your family, Na just kidding Appreciate ya
So are you finding that RPM Arrma are “better” then the beefed up v5 arms and are preferred? Or are you just teaching how you made it work in case rpm are what you have lying around? Great vid brother. I do agree with others... speeding up voice is not necessary... I’m ok with a bit of waffling...lol Do you worry the meat around that droop screw could tear out? Luv your vids brother!!!
Sup bro, Thanks for the kind words. No the meat won't tear out... It's hit from above not a torsional thing. Just teaching how to make RPM Arms work so help people stop blaming M2C and Arrma's v5 droop locations, it was RPM not made right. I love RPM but on v5 I suggest stock for now. Especially because the shock mounts still won't match up for v5 either. RPM still more Durable, but for v5 there even more off. Thanks for your time bro, See ya round
@@3SonsRC what if im running the new updated m2c chassis, which is supposed to be for the v1-v5, and running the v4 shock towers with the rpm arms? And usimg the m2c droop screw
Curious if this is an issue for the new Kraton EXB v5 RPM arms. They look different from this. Maybe updated. I’m thinking not as the droop screw hole is spilling over the edge on beefier EXB RPM arm.
Not sure if v4 and v5 arms are different? This is an older video so it's hard to keep up with compatibility changes. Hope your enjoying the channel, see ya round brother
I got ya man, but 2 things... 1)M2C is not trying to compete with Arrma on price. Arrma can make 100k of them screws in batches, aftermarket will always be more expensive. 2) I have used those arrma screws and they still dug into my M2C Chassis, stock chassis (Non 7075) would have been worse, that was before I moved to these. Oh and 3) they are not wide enough and flat enough to work as effectively as the M2C ones in This Fix. Flatter gets you more droop on RPM arms which is what this video is about. You also can't adjust those from up top and they get full of dirt and grime from below. But the biggest issues with them they don't have the reach of a wider mushroom head and the hex still slightly damages chassis. But yeah they are cheaper and when in a bind the Arrma ones can work in certain situations. Way better than the v3 Droop Screws that had NO button head at all!. But not so effective for fixing THIS issue, fair point on price, but aftermarket is always more because of smaller manufacturing batches. Hope that makes sence. Near the end of the video I directly compare the Arrma ones vs the M2C ones and make these same points. Thanks for your time brother and it's a fair perspective. Hope your enjoying the the channel See ya round
Thanks for your time buddy. Your not doing anything wrong. Those arm design from RPM are the same as when the v3 Rigs came out over two years ago. Arrma has now changed the arm geometry and design slightly. So if your talking about the bottom pin that slide in and out and are held in by that little set screw.... Well the old arrma arms had a much shorter pin for the shock on the bottom. So you have to either order the older pins part Number on the Arrma website search Talion v4 exploded view Pdf and make sure your pulling up the older one. Not the EXB. Local Hobby shop might have em. Or you can try a long 3mm screw I think?? Honesty RPM needs to redesign these arms REALLY BAD. There great material and still more durable than even the EXB arms, but there are so many work arounds you have to do to get them to work (like my video). Honestly RPM is being SUPER lazy here as these arms geometry and compatible with new stuff has been an issue for years and it's gotten worse as Arrma has updated their design RPM has changed NOTHING and many people continue to buy them even from LHS and the dude working there is not going to even know to tell you the issues. Still the best arms, but man they need to be updated. Hope my comment helps, appreciate yours, hope your enjoying the channel brother. See ya round
Thanks for your time brother and I'm glad your enjoying the channel 😀 Appreciate the feedback. Would you say you had a hard time following the speed of this video? I have worked on the technical side of speeding things up with clarity Trust me. You don't want me to waffel on for 15 minutes saying the same thing as a 8 minute video 🤣🤣... But I have adjusted things recently to make it clearer Thanks for your time and comment See ya round friend
I wanted to get the M2c drive shafts for my outcast 8s. What do I do . I saw not to get it with out those screws. Please help I want the m2c drive shafts
Confused bro, this video is about RPM arms. So your just asking a seperate question? Yeah I have the Overkill Shafts throughout my Kraton and Outcast 8s, some might just be the Beefcake ones, but pretty sure there all Overkill. Mine are not the ones with the Grub screw and replaceable pin.... Is that what your asking about. That's a cool thing.but mine have been fine. Hope that helps. Sorry I don't work for M2C I'm just on the test team. Hope your enjoying the channel brother, see ya round
@@3SonsRC yeah I have a stock outcast 8s I haven’t done any upgrades on it. I wanna get better drive shafts bc those break a lot. You think it would be fine if I just got those shafts ? Bc it was saying in the description that don’t buy them if you have the rpm arms
@@MikeGaming21 great question, yeah the 8s RPM arms over flex and can cause drive cup damage... I use them only in the rears with limiting straps. I made my own but Vitavon makes the best I have seen. So you can do rpm arms if you already have them, but stock arms are more ideal. Yeah they break more, but rpm bend too much and cause other issues. Like I said I use them just in the rear of the Outcast because I had them lying around for almost 2 years. If not I would have used stock. If RPM add limiting straps to reduce droop, BUT that still does NOT stop them From overflexing on impact and causing cup damage so buyer beware, not advised
Thank you for the detailed and informative Video! The community lives from those tips and tricks. 👍👍👍
Thanks for stopping by Kimberly the Legend 😀
Your right, it's all about the community!
Appreciate the support and kind words
Always great videos from you. UR the king of installation videos. Thank you sir
Appreciate the support brother Avery🙌
My please to provide this video to the community 😎👍
Thank you very much for the video! Your videos are really instructive and clear. M2C rules, need to get their droop screws!!! I recently contacted RPM whether they have plans to get out updated A-arms for the exb. They said they are currently working on an update and we might expect it to come out in a couple months time. Let's see.
That's fantastic to hear brother. Appreciate the feedback and glad you are enjoying the channel 😀👍
Good to hear RPM is looking to update there arms, hope they take into consideration the droop screw location because they decided to not even put them on the 8s Arrma Arms which was strange. Might be a while for new 6s arms so hope this technique helps for now.
Thanks for your time and see you around brother
Great info 👌
Appreciate brother
See ya round friend
Didn’t catch a word until “peace out!”
Always giving badass info thanks
Appreciate that my friend.... Now the v2 rpm arms are out though.... Only 2 years late RPM 😔😂
Appreciate your time and support brother, see ya round
Nice footage bro ! 👍😍
Appreciate that brother,
Thanks for coming by again my man, see ya round
M2C droop screws are very very delicate guys, all 3 sets of mine are rooted.
Sup Trav,
Thanks for coming by.
Rooted? Not sure what your trying to say brother. I have the M2C Droop Screws on 7 of my rigs never had a problem going to the moon, but curious what your issue has been? Have you reached out to M2C? Mitch is awesome
The hex part are that thin they snap off very easy bro, common known problem on the forums and Facebook pages. No I haven't contacted m2c, was trying to get them out of my Mojave just last night to put stock ones back in. Good channel tho mate...
Interesting, I reached out to Mitch on this. Haven't had the issue not denying your challenge tho.
I wonder if you were using the new black ones or the older silver ones?
Thanks for your comment and time
A better fix would be to simply not buy RPM arms until they fix this issue. Otherwise stick with stock arms. RPM always seems to have stronger parts, but they are always off in some way or another.
Agreed brother,
This was more a fix if these are the parts you already had.... RPM is just lazy with updating these arms. A shame because their material is perfect for 1/8 scale arms.... 1/5 scale Arrma arms are lacking droop screws your right on that.
Hope your enjoying the channel,
See ya round brother
Thanks for this video, looks like you will not be able to run the rear sway bar on the rpm rear arms yes?
Yeah man I don't think so.
This video is now kinda outdated as RPM FINALLY updated there Arms to be compatible 100%....its embarrassing how long the took honestly.
Glad you enjoyed the video but more so hope your enjoying the channel, see ya round brother
Nice information and video, however you didnt mention that anyone fitting RPM to the rear of the V5/EXB will throw their rear geometry right out, the shock mounting points are totally different and the shocks will lay way lower and more likely to bend shafts.
Fair point brother
I talked with Rich on this and he had to drill out the EXB towers to a different position to get them to match up. Maybe for another video. Another guy commented that RPM might be working on an alternate 6s arm? Might be months out though.
Tried to make this one more about the droop screw locations
Appreciate your time and feedback
hey, yesterday i ripped out and snapped the hinge pin on the rear (6s exb kraton). So i ordered the RPM arms. Now i see your comment. Is this still an issue? If so: Is there a fix to get the geo right again? Im bashing pretty hard and laying the shocks lower is something i need to avoid. Thanks
@@TuneboyR Its still true and no fix unless you can work out correct shock position and then drill new holes in the shock tower. In my opinion there is nothing wrong with the stock arms, hence likely why RPM havent made v5/EXB versions.
Best option is to fit better hinge pins, like the M2C tool steel ones or make your own out of 4mm tool steel rods cut to length
@@HardcoreRC thanks mate
Well Brother am back watching UA-cam Videos again 🤗😊🤗😊🤗 still recovering from long Covid brother 😭 and hopefully ill be back soon doing Videos myself 😊 awesome video, i really enjoyed it👍 thanks for sharing 👍 😊 see you soon brother and Keep Safe ❤ 😊🙏
Good to have you back here brother,
Appreciate your time and will see you round
Very helpful videos, it’s obvious you seriously bash👍🏼 I put a 6s Spektrum motor in my Maxx, it lasted about 2 bash sessions, motor ceased with internal rotor all cracked, how do you protect a motor🤷🏼♂️?
Appreciate your time and Sub brother.
Motors don't handle 170 degrees plus too well. So if you had too high a gearing for that setup it could have been running too hot. Like if it was running 190-225 it's possible because you don't have a sensor to cut off the esc with it being not stock.
When switching things up with the electronics would be good to have a infrared gun on hand to check temps can get on off Amazon or eBay for under $20. Might have to change gearing or add fans for the motor if it's running too hot. I'm guessing that's what happened.
Great question and glad your enjoying the channel
See ya round brother
Nice tech vid Brother Dennis! The arms don't work correctly anyway with the new V5/EXB Geometry without mods but hopefully RPM will keep up and make a new version soon! I had to engineer a new lower shock hole position on the arm which worked perfect since no EXB arms were available at the time!😝Got me through the bash at least!😊Great vid bro and nice new intro!😎👊🤘🚀🚀
Yeah that's the thing, I thought about putting all that extra "You might have to drill your tower out to match the shock length creating new standoff points" but I was more creating this video to help Mitch out (All them questions "my RPM arms don't work with your chassis") and to help the community. Just didn't have the time to tackle both issues in a video. I did talk about this in 🔸See Discription🔸👍If you want to mention the second part (drill mod) in one of your vids cool and refrence mine people will have a full picture.
But apparently RPM is now forced to make new arms and I heard they are..... But that might be a bit. Plenty of dudes have these arms... So hope this still helps. Better than people just blaming M2C for a RPM compatability issue🤔
Appreciate your time friend.... See ya round
@@3SonsRC Yeah hopefully RPM will have a solution soon! Not big on the idea of drilling the tower. Makes a wonky shock setup at the tower👀I showed in one of my EXB vids how to simply modify the arm so everything falls in place. Probably long forgotten vid by now.🤣
Yeah wish I knew what video that was.... You probably only have about 8 EXB videos to search through 🤣😱
@@3SonsRC 🤣🤣
This is what happens when you don't wear headphones when you are editing your videos. Background music way too loud. Listener fails to lock on to the commentary. Makes it worse when commentator speaks as quickly as he does.
Appreciate the feedback bro.
Sounds good to me but then again I know what I'm saying 😔 so fair point.
This video is over a year old and I was messing with different techniques with balance, music, and tempo so it's not too slow.... I believe I have gotten better but feel free to check out some of my newer videos and let me know.
Hope to see ya round
cool video and info
Appreciate that Duke
See ya round
Thanks for this hint. I think I have much bigger issues to fix the Sway Bar at the rpm arms because the sway Bar seems to be to short and also the lower pins for suspension are way too long are there some others available?
You need the arrma rear sway bar part number ar330201 and shock mount pin set ar330231 3x21.5mm . Then it all fits but you may not like the sag in the back . I went back to stock . The rpm front arms were spot on . Back not so good. I guess you could change shock position on the tower but it’s a big stuff around and prob get the geometry all out of whack . Good luck dude.
Yeah and now RPM has v5 arms so this is kinda outdated material.
Appreciate your time brother, hope your enjoying the channel, see ya round
@@3SonsRC yeh saw they got the v5 arms . Now we just have to wait 84 months to get them here in Australia 😂
Seems a lot of work and I can’t see that lasting that close to the other hole I would put resin in that old screw hole or just drill out the original hole more to take a much bigger head like a 10mm head
I did mine in like 5 minutes... Takes longer if there on the truck and you have to take them off. Mine have lasted for months haven't moved a bit, and I'm not exactly gentle on my rigs 😉😜🚀🚀😎👍
Appreciate your time and comment, hope your enjoying the channel, see ya round
Hey buddy really good video, bars&tone just gave u a shout out so just wanted to check u out and I'm glad I did, very informative videos .. so I've just sub'd u buddy ... epic 😉👊
Yeah man love his channel... Thanks for coming over.
I do a lot of Installs and tips but honestly REALLY love the Bashing side as well... I just put it all out there and people watch what they like.... Appreciate the support my man, thanks for the Sub.
Tell your friends, tell your family, Na just kidding
Appreciate ya
So are you finding that RPM Arrma are “better” then the beefed up v5 arms and are preferred?
Or are you just teaching how you made it work in case rpm are what you have lying around?
Great vid brother. I do agree with others... speeding up voice is not necessary... I’m ok with a bit of waffling...lol
Do you worry the meat around that droop screw could tear out? Luv your vids brother!!!
Sup bro,
Thanks for the kind words.
No the meat won't tear out... It's hit from above not a torsional thing.
Just teaching how to make RPM Arms work so help people stop blaming M2C and Arrma's v5 droop locations, it was RPM not made right.
I love RPM but on v5 I suggest stock for now. Especially because the shock mounts still won't match up for v5 either. RPM still more Durable, but for v5 there even more off.
Thanks for your time bro,
See ya round
@@3SonsRC what if im running the new updated m2c chassis, which is supposed to be for the v1-v5, and running the v4 shock towers with the rpm arms? And usimg the m2c droop screw
Curious if this is an issue for the new Kraton EXB v5 RPM arms. They look different from this. Maybe updated.
I’m thinking not as the droop screw hole is spilling over the edge on beefier EXB RPM arm.
Not sure if v4 and v5 arms are different? This is an older video so it's hard to keep up with compatibility changes.
Hope your enjoying the channel, see ya round brother
@@3SonsRC for sure! The v5 arms are beefier!
🔥👌
Thanks for your time brother.... See ya round
For 6 bucks i have 8 pcs of AR727410 ... M2C 16 bucks for 4 pcs ... hmmm
I got ya man, but 2 things... 1)M2C is not trying to compete with Arrma on price. Arrma can make 100k of them screws in batches, aftermarket will always be more expensive. 2) I have used those arrma screws and they still dug into my M2C Chassis, stock chassis (Non 7075) would have been worse, that was before I moved to these.
Oh and 3) they are not wide enough and flat enough to work as effectively as the M2C ones in This Fix. Flatter gets you more droop on RPM arms which is what this video is about. You also can't adjust those from up top and they get full of dirt and grime from below. But the biggest issues with them they don't have the reach of a wider mushroom head and the hex still slightly damages chassis. But yeah they are cheaper and when in a bind the Arrma ones can work in certain situations. Way better than the v3 Droop Screws that had NO button head at all!. But not so effective for fixing THIS issue, fair point on price, but aftermarket is always more because of smaller manufacturing batches. Hope that makes sence. Near the end of the video I directly compare the Arrma ones vs the M2C ones and make these same points.
Thanks for your time brother and it's a fair perspective.
Hope your enjoying the the channel
See ya round
What about the shock mount pins?
I have a Talion exb & just put the rpm arms on & the shock mount pins are toooo long. What am I doing wrong?
Thanks for your time buddy.
Your not doing anything wrong. Those arm design from RPM are the same as when the v3 Rigs came out over two years ago. Arrma has now changed the arm geometry and design slightly. So if your talking about the bottom pin that slide in and out and are held in by that little set screw.... Well the old arrma arms had a much shorter pin for the shock on the bottom. So you have to either order the older pins part Number on the Arrma website search Talion v4 exploded view Pdf and make sure your pulling up the older one. Not the EXB. Local Hobby shop might have em. Or you can try a long 3mm screw I think??
Honesty RPM needs to redesign these arms REALLY BAD. There great material and still more durable than even the EXB arms, but there are so many work arounds you have to do to get them to work (like my video). Honestly RPM is being SUPER lazy here as these arms geometry and compatible with new stuff has been an issue for years and it's gotten worse as Arrma has updated their design RPM has changed NOTHING and many people continue to buy them even from LHS and the dude working there is not going to even know to tell you the issues. Still the best arms, but man they need to be updated.
Hope my comment helps, appreciate yours, hope your enjoying the channel brother.
See ya round
I love the vids, I would prefer them not sped up, I’m here for the waffle.
Thanks for your time brother and I'm glad your enjoying the channel 😀
Appreciate the feedback. Would you say you had a hard time following the speed of this video? I have worked on the technical side of speeding things up with clarity
Trust me. You don't want me to waffel on for 15 minutes saying the same thing as a 8 minute video 🤣🤣... But I have adjusted things recently to make it clearer
Thanks for your time and comment
See ya round friend
@@3SonsRC honestly I put the speed at .75 to slow it down, but I’m an RC nerd and listen to every word. Lol
I wanted to get the M2c drive shafts for my outcast 8s. What do I do . I saw not to get it with out those screws. Please help I want the m2c drive shafts
Confused bro, this video is about RPM arms.
So your just asking a seperate question?
Yeah I have the Overkill Shafts throughout my Kraton and Outcast 8s, some might just be the Beefcake ones, but pretty sure there all Overkill. Mine are not the ones with the Grub screw and replaceable pin.... Is that what your asking about. That's a cool thing.but mine have been fine. Hope that helps. Sorry I don't work for M2C I'm just on the test team.
Hope your enjoying the channel brother, see ya round
@@3SonsRC yeah I have a stock outcast 8s I haven’t done any upgrades on it. I wanna get better drive shafts bc those break a lot. You think it would be fine if I just got those shafts ? Bc it was saying in the description that don’t buy them if you have the rpm arms
@@MikeGaming21 great question, yeah the 8s RPM arms over flex and can cause drive cup damage... I use them only in the rears with limiting straps. I made my own but Vitavon makes the best I have seen. So you can do rpm arms if you already have them, but stock arms are more ideal. Yeah they break more, but rpm bend too much and cause other issues. Like I said I use them just in the rear of the Outcast because I had them lying around for almost 2 years. If not I would have used stock. If RPM add limiting straps to reduce droop, BUT that still does NOT stop them From overflexing on impact and causing cup damage so buyer beware, not advised
@@3SonsRC sounds good thank you