thanks, that was really useful guide! after having your instruction in my mind i was able to operate with carb in the garage like i already know everything :-) and yeah, it was indeed a bit tricky part with "locking" choke lever to throttle, i had to repeat the same action 3 times until it really locked P.S. luckily in my version of carb pin which was holding floater was designed in the way what you can't take it off fully, its end still stays inside the body of carb, so it's not possible to lose it :-)
So the banjo thing is where you attach fuel hose, and these carburetors don't have vacuum right? I think i figured it out THANK YOU SO MUCH i had a lot of truble with this carburetor and the bike they brought to me was a complete mess, your video helped a lot 👍❤
You need to really clean the top of the jet (by that I mean where the screwdriver slot is) and rub vigorously on a coarse cloth, but not anything abrasive. This should remove any dried sediment. Then examine it under a magnifying glass - then you can make out the stamped number. You should also just see the Dellorto logo. It really does need magnification though, I certainly couldn't read it without.
@@SDsailor7 Hi Rob/ Probably a bit late in the date for you, but I left essentially for anyone else who may encounter the same issue identifying the jet size. Thanks for the acknowledgement.
Very nice video! I have a problem with a scooter. I bought it and it didn't start. I took down the carburetor, I cleaned it, I have spark but it still doesn't start. what parts should be changed, I don't know any skilled craftsman in my area. thank you!
I started the bike successfully but now i have a problem, as soon as it starts, it beggings to idle extremely highg (especially if i give it some throttle) i think the problem is in choke amd choke lever it just stays and has no efect when i pull the lever and that's probably making my engine run to lean, i have no other leaks except on the side where air filter goes I can't find anyone show how to adjust choke please help
The choke lever isn’t adjustable (unless you have cable choke), sometimes they get bent and stop working. if it’s idling really high screw out the idle speed screw, or if the idle is erratic or suddenly rises its an air leak. The choke would cause the idle to decrease rpm not increase so I don’t think that’s the problem. Sometimes the carburetor itself can have an air leak on the top gasket, if so it’s best to just buy a new one they are only $50
@@chrisinthecar5689 well im fixing it for a friend.. long story anyways.. the choke remains opened and is stuck like thay, the lever doesn't have any effect (i have exactly the same carburetoe likenyou in the vid mine is made in italy because the bike is aprilia rs50) and carburetor worked fine last time, engine was blown and i fixed that and now it won't idle, it idles fine at start sometimes and when i give it some gas it stays extremely high unitl i pull the spark plug cable or fuel cable.. I'm pretty sure it has something to do with the choke. Thanks for the response your video helped alot
@@srdjankrajcer7612 it’s possible the jetting is too low and it’s leaning out when you give it throttle. Whenever it revs up like that it’s almost always too much air coming in somewhere
@@chrisinthecar5689 yeah i understood that too, and i know the whole engine and everything in my head, i assembled it and spent 50 hours on it, only thing i don't understand is that choke and choke lever..
@@srdjankrajcer7612 does the lever go down at all? Usually the slotted piece that actuates against the choke plate will bend from use and it will keep the arm from moving down. You can take it off and pound it flat w a hammer
Mizka not that I know of :/ could finagle something though, my buddy made one with a nail that worked fine. I've seen some models that hold the needle in place with a thin wire, like a paper clip. The rubber can get compacted over time, easy to replace it on treats.
chrisinthecar ok, my engine is running lean and as soons as i let go of the gas the rounds slowly floats down guess i need to change the main jet if the needle is non movable.
Greatly informative vid! 2 comments. First, as a bass player I truely enjoyed the music you had first lol. Second, on my Batavus, I'm running a Chinese Vespa 12.12 SHA carb with a stock #48 jet and it's running RICH! I am wanting to switch to a 14.12 carb to keep my intake and reeds kinda stock. Would there be an improvement of my sluggish acceleration and modest top speed?
What's your bike's setup? I'm planning on buying a Tomos A3 and I don't know what jet to put in - I'm going to swap the pipe with Tecno Circuit (Krul in Slovenia), put an L piston inside and do some minor tweaks.
It’s an A35 w 70cc airsal kit and biturbo with this carb at 63 main jet^. With A3 it’s usually stock in the 50s range but you might be higher with that pipe. I would start higher and move down, like 60 and if it 4 strokes move it down. If you go too low it’ll suck air and lean bog, which is pretty apparent because it loses all power and makes a ‘waaaa’ sound. Too rich (4 stroking) makes a sound twice as fast as the normal engine sound and it’ll lose power output but usually stays running.
@@chrisinthecar5689 Thanks! I had an airsal kit on my previous bike, i gotta say, you have a pretty small jet for that kit... I had a 17.5mm carb with 90 main jet.
The spring on the choke mechanism is mounted wrong here 0:22. Short arm of spring should be at the top of tile and the long arm should be inside, not at the edge like on this one. When you put long arm inside then you can screw it all the way in. When spring is in the position like on video you can't screw it all the way in, so choke tile can't be tight with carb body and you loose vacuum, or to say it simple you have a bad cold start.
@@chrisinthecar5689 yeah, but I wrote this just for them to know. My spring was in same position like on your carb and I didn't solve it until I saw picture of new carb on dellorto webpage. Then I realised the problem
The one off treatland. The runtong clones are the only ones I’d avoid, the milling is inconsistent on those. They are the cheapest but I had one where the idle speed screw just didn’t engage the slide height at all.
Hi good video I have a tomos sprint 94 am having problem to keep her steady moving the idle and only gets steady with the choke on what do you think it should be the problem?
It depends, some of the clones are bad. If you get a runtong from Amazon I’ve seen them have bad milling on the idle screw. Usually good to go with a reputable one from treatland or dos cycles
My Tomos has a mysterious issue, it doesn’t want to idle, but runs good at WOT. My guess is that it’s not getting enough fuel to idle and can only get gas when the throttle is open
@@andreww.6283 try screwing in the idle screw all the way and slowly backing it out. otherwise it's probably a jetting issue or maybe clogged somewhere.
Hi, I have a problem with my carburator in yamaha malaguti (the same at the film) The engine only works when lever is up (on "A" position), when its on c position (lever down, c means choke?) only starts for about 2-3 seconds. The problem is, i cant pull up the lever from c to a, i have to take off the airbox and then using a screwdriver unblock the lever and pull it back on a. Should engine works normal on c or on a? Maybe i dont have a few parts on carburator? Position A its full open and position c its like steel plate with small whole (cause less air going to carburator). Sory for my english, please help me :DD
TheMichal1260 full throttle should shut the choke off, try setting it to c position then turning the throttle all the way open. If the throttle doesn’t work try pulling the actual throttle cable above the carb. If that doesn’t shut the choke off (back to a position) then the choke arm might be bent. It should run normally on ‘a’, ‘c’ is just used to start when cold. If it only starts with the choke off you are probably running too rich, as the choke would create an extra rich condition. Try downjetting and check your plug.
Is the intake gasket an "O" ring? or paper gasket? also do they have different sizes of the plastic piece that goes on the intake? anyone know? Thank you
Rob Hernandez the plastic shim comes in many different sizes with a thickness measurement (usually between 1-2mm) plus an inner diameter (ID) and outer diameter (OD) measurement. These usually range from 16-22mm. There is sometimes a rubber seal or O ring beneath the plastic shim.
Rob Hernandez different intakes will have different shims so check treatland to find the right one for you. If the seal is bad throw an o ring underneath it.
@@chrisinthecar5689 The carburator i have is missing the plastic shim and O ring and it is also missing the filter and filter cover i will try to find them on treatland as far as the O ring goes i do have plenty of O rings so that part is solved. On the jet size question is the original jet a 53 like you replied to someone here before? and do you have to make any changes to the motor/tunning if you go with a different size jet? The moped i am restoring is a Peugeot LVS U3 Excellent video very informative. Thank you for the help
@@chrisinthecar5689 When you start the moped with the choke on does the choke move to the open position once the moped warms up? or do you need to move the choke lever manually to open it? Thank you
Rob Hernandez the stock jet size varies for different bikes. With this size SHA I’ve only used sizes between 50-70. As long as your timing is right and there are no air leaks you just have to change the jet sizes until you find what’s right. I tend to start at like 65 then work my way down, it’s better to be too rich than too lean when tuning.
Chinese carbs may have 57 jet but its not acurate....my friend picked up a new bigger jet for his bing 12mm carburetor (found on tomos apn4/6) and since he knows a guy who restores and builds these mopeds from scratch he gave him the jet and he did the maths and it wasnt correct then he fixed it for him
Chris Katko This is an alternative method for it the knarp is too big, a problem I have run into more than once. I’ve run it like this for 2 years never had a problem
main jet #57 have bad result ..much rich mix. I intend to change to # 53. Until the injector came, I used a thin copper wire to reduce the flow. seems #53 to #56 is the best range of use
Sometimes the knarp is too big to fit in the hole in the slide, so this is an alternative method. I have had mine like this for 2 years and haven’t had any issues.
For anyone wondering, a smaller throttle cable can be threaded through the back hole (flattest part facing the back of the carb) and the cable pulled upwards through the slot in the top of the slide to exit from the top. Essentially reverse of what is in the video. Both methods work fine as long as the slide can function properly
shittest carb ever made .if the idle sgrew does,nt give you a decent idle ,you have to rejet it ,as there no air/fuel mixture sgrew , that was clever idea dellorto ,NOT .and to think aprillia put these on there rs50 bikes 1999 upwards . complete trash of a carb .
That was so helpful, I've been having the worst time trying to find out how the throttle cable sits with the slide and spring. Thank you for posting!!
J'ai rien compris
thanks for the video. my buddy has 06 tomos rivival TS with one of these and this video helped a lot to get it running again.
easily one of the best videos on this that I have seen thank you!
Uninstalled, cleaned and reinstalled my carb in 20 mins because of this video.
absolutely awesome video, thanks for making this!
thanks, that was really useful guide!
after having your instruction in my mind i was able to operate with carb in the garage like i already know everything :-)
and yeah, it was indeed a bit tricky part with "locking" choke lever to throttle, i had to repeat the same action 3 times until it really locked
P.S. luckily in my version of carb pin which was holding floater was designed in the way what you can't take it off fully, its end still stays inside the body of carb, so it's not possible to lose it :-)
Actionless Loveless hey I came across this video because I pushed my choke down and it won’t go back up. Any suggestions or should I open up the carb?
@@robertkoripsky6407 yeah, you need to open to see - if it's bended/damaged or just went from its place for some reason
@@robertkoripsky6407 also i assume what your throttle cable is operating well, as it is releasing the choke normally
thank you i learned much about my carburator and now i can service it on my own :D
Allot of oopoppoooo
Appreciate it man. I bought a tomos revival 2004 and it is having idling problems. so im going to use this vid to take off and clean all parts.
Riko Quintana nice! My 2005 ST had an air leak in the carb top gasket and the idle was all over the place.
This is outstanding. Thank you. Just what I needed.
Это гениально! Я часто пересматриваю это, мне нравится музыка. Ты нашел хорошую музыку. Спасибо от любителея ТОМОС из России.
Спасибо
Nagy segítség volt, köszönöm! :-) Thank you!
So the banjo thing is where you attach fuel hose, and these carburetors don't have vacuum right? I think i figured it out THANK YOU SO MUCH i had a lot of truble with this carburetor and the bike they brought to me was a complete mess, your video helped a lot 👍❤
Correct there is no vacuum on the SHA models, no problem!
This is just what I needed, thank you!!!
Thank you, great work, good instructions!
Ese muelle de aire se asalido no se ponelo
Hey, i have the same carburator and it leaks gas on the banjo and i dont know what to do…. please help🙏
@@farmingslo3379 get a new seal washer and tighten it
Thank you, that was a life saver! 🙌
Idk why I watched it after I just reassembled whole thing xD.. it could be helpful.
OKay when i do all off that i cant get choke to come back up it just stays like that down and idk what to do
@@KaTzya cable might need adjusting if it’s not actuating the arm when fully open, I have another video on it in shorts.
@@KaTzya ua-cam.com/video/va7ojXjIq70/v-deo.htmlsi=4pqgVR1-bwux-bGX
How do i know what size jet i have? the one on my Dellorto does not have any numbers on it.
Anyone know? thank you
You need to really clean the top of the jet (by that I mean where the screwdriver slot is) and rub vigorously on a coarse cloth, but not anything abrasive. This should remove any dried sediment. Then examine it under a magnifying glass - then you can make out the stamped number. You should also just see the Dellorto logo. It really does need magnification though, I certainly couldn't read it without.
@@NPMTrialsVideo Thank you! Will do.
@@SDsailor7 Hi Rob/ Probably a bit late in the date for you, but I left essentially for anyone else who may encounter the same issue identifying the jet size. Thanks for the acknowledgement.
great video. continued luck with the clone carb??
Very nice video! I have a problem with a scooter. I bought it and it didn't start. I took down the carburetor, I cleaned it, I have spark but it still doesn't start. what parts should be changed, I don't know any skilled craftsman in my area. thank you!
It could be a number of things. Is it new or used?
@@chrisinthecar5689 is used,but looks good,idk
@@ionutu11 I would check for compression, then air leaks and tuning. Also check fuel delivery between tank and carburetor
14x12 karbüratörün benzin emiş memesi kaç numaradır orjinali efendim
I started the bike successfully but now i have a problem, as soon as it starts, it beggings to idle extremely highg (especially if i give it some throttle) i think the problem is in choke amd choke lever it just stays and has no efect when i pull the lever and that's probably making my engine run to lean, i have no other leaks except on the side where air filter goes
I can't find anyone show how to adjust choke please help
The choke lever isn’t adjustable (unless you have cable choke), sometimes they get bent and stop working. if it’s idling really high screw out the idle speed screw, or if the idle is erratic or suddenly rises its an air leak. The choke would cause the idle to decrease rpm not increase so I don’t think that’s the problem. Sometimes the carburetor itself can have an air leak on the top gasket, if so it’s best to just buy a new one they are only $50
@@chrisinthecar5689 well im fixing it for a friend.. long story anyways.. the choke remains opened and is stuck like thay, the lever doesn't have any effect (i have exactly the same carburetoe likenyou in the vid mine is made in italy because the bike is aprilia rs50) and carburetor worked fine last time, engine was blown and i fixed that and now it won't idle, it idles fine at start sometimes and when i give it some gas it stays extremely high unitl i pull the spark plug cable or fuel cable.. I'm pretty sure it has something to do with the choke. Thanks for the response your video helped alot
@@srdjankrajcer7612 it’s possible the jetting is too low and it’s leaning out when you give it throttle. Whenever it revs up like that it’s almost always too much air coming in somewhere
@@chrisinthecar5689 yeah i understood that too, and i know the whole engine and everything in my head, i assembled it and spent 50 hours on it, only thing i don't understand is that choke and choke lever..
@@srdjankrajcer7612 does the lever go down at all? Usually the slotted piece that actuates against the choke plate will bend from use and it will keep the arm from moving down. You can take it off and pound it flat w a hammer
What is the dimension of the bowl o-ring? I have sha 14.12 carb.
So you cant change the position of the needle valve?
Mizka not that I know of :/ could finagle something though, my buddy made one with a nail that worked fine. I've seen some models that hold the needle in place with a thin wire, like a paper clip. The rubber can get compacted over time, easy to replace it on treats.
chrisinthecar ok, my engine is running lean and as soons as i let go of the gas the rounds slowly floats down guess i need to change the main jet if the needle is non movable.
Mizka yeah jetting and idle screw adjustments are key with this thing, so long as the other parts are functioning properly.
Thanks, great vid !
Awesome video, superb info ,thanks for making this ,so helpful .keep up the great work everyone
☆☆☆☆☆
Great video
Great vid dude!
Thank you for this movie!
Thank you! Nice music theme ..
Are all dellorto banjo sizes the same?
Not sure tbh, I’ll check the thread size later
Greatly informative vid! 2 comments. First, as a bass player I truely enjoyed the music you had first lol. Second, on my Batavus, I'm running a Chinese Vespa 12.12 SHA carb with a stock #48 jet and it's running RICH! I am wanting to switch to a 14.12 carb to keep my intake and reeds kinda stock. Would there be an improvement of my sluggish acceleration and modest top speed?
What's your bike's setup? I'm planning on buying a Tomos A3 and I don't know what jet to put in - I'm going to swap the pipe with Tecno Circuit (Krul in Slovenia), put an L piston inside and do some minor tweaks.
It’s an A35 w 70cc airsal kit and biturbo with this carb at 63 main jet^. With A3 it’s usually stock in the 50s range but you might be higher with that pipe. I would start higher and move down, like 60 and if it 4 strokes move it down. If you go too low it’ll suck air and lean bog, which is pretty apparent because it loses all power and makes a ‘waaaa’ sound. Too rich (4 stroking) makes a sound twice as fast as the normal engine sound and it’ll lose power output but usually stays running.
@@chrisinthecar5689 Thanks! I had an airsal kit on my previous bike, i gotta say, you have a pretty small jet for that kit... I had a 17.5mm carb with 90 main jet.
The spring on the choke mechanism is mounted wrong here 0:22. Short arm of spring should be at the top of tile and the long arm should be inside, not at the edge like on this one. When you put long arm inside then you can screw it all the way in. When spring is in the position like on video you can't screw it all the way in, so choke tile can't be tight with carb body and you loose vacuum, or to say it simple you have a bad cold start.
Milos Novakovic yeah the choke is broken on this one, just used it for video demonstration of the other parts
@@chrisinthecar5689 yeah, but I wrote this just for them to know. My spring was in same position like on your carb and I didn't solve it until I saw picture of new carb on dellorto webpage. Then I realised the problem
What does the 14 and 12 mean?
The inner diameters, 12mm at choke opening and 14mm through the rest
what is the size/number of the main jet in your carburetor dellorto?
With my setup I have 63, but stock bikes can vary. I’ve never seen lower than 50 or higher than 70.
what equivalent did you buy?
The one off treatland. The runtong clones are the only ones I’d avoid, the milling is inconsistent on those. They are the cheapest but I had one where the idle speed screw just didn’t engage the slide height at all.
Hi good video I have a tomos sprint 94 am having problem to keep her steady moving the idle and only gets steady with the choke on what do you think it should be the problem?
Josué Rodríguez if applying the choke makes it run better you are either too lean or have an air leak.
chrisinthecar ok thanks buddy i suscribe to your channel nice job can’t wait to see more videos have a good one! ;)
Nice. A shame we didn't have a carb in better condition so we could've seen things as they ought to be when tip-top.
Innocent bystander haha yeah, it’s my burner
Hello, how's your chinese Dellorto been? I want to buy one for my 1977 Tomos Automatic (its the moped from my profile picutre).
It depends, some of the clones are bad. If you get a runtong from Amazon I’ve seen them have bad milling on the idle screw. Usually good to go with a reputable one from treatland or dos cycles
@@chrisinthecar5689 Thank you! I was just about to order a runtong😅
What happens if the float rests too high? Will it cause fuel starvation issues?
Andrew W. Yeah, too low and it’ll leak, too high and it’ll cut off the fuel before the bowl has a chance to fill up
My Tomos has a mysterious issue, it doesn’t want to idle, but runs good at WOT. My guess is that it’s not getting enough fuel to idle and can only get gas when the throttle is open
I checked for air leaks and cannot find any so bad that it won’t let my bike idle
@@andreww.6283 try screwing in the idle screw all the way and slowly backing it out. otherwise it's probably a jetting issue or maybe clogged somewhere.
After that try removing the air filter. Running really rich will cause that issue sometimes.
Hi, I have a problem with my carburator in yamaha malaguti (the same at the film) The engine only works when lever is up (on "A" position), when its on c position (lever down, c means choke?) only starts for about 2-3 seconds. The problem is, i cant pull up the lever from c to a, i have to take off the airbox and then using a screwdriver unblock the lever and pull it back on a. Should engine works normal on c or on a? Maybe i dont have a few parts on carburator? Position A its full open and position c its like steel plate with small whole (cause less air going to carburator). Sory for my english, please help me :DD
TheMichal1260 full throttle should shut the choke off, try setting it to c position then turning the throttle all the way open. If the throttle doesn’t work try pulling the actual throttle cable above the carb. If that doesn’t shut the choke off (back to a position) then the choke arm might be bent.
It should run normally on ‘a’, ‘c’ is just used to start when cold. If it only starts with the choke off you are probably running too rich, as the choke would create an extra rich condition. Try downjetting and check your plug.
chrisinthecar Got it, its working :D
Thanks mate, saved my ass, all best, take care :DD
So mine seems to give way too much fuel and I can't figure why could you help?
@Anthony Gwara yyeaaaa turns out the spark was bad 😂
Jaako Leksine yeah jetting + idle screw or perhaps the float needle is bad
GREAT. VIDEO.
Is the intake gasket an "O" ring? or paper gasket? also do they have different sizes of the plastic piece that goes on the intake? anyone know? Thank you
Rob Hernandez the plastic shim comes in many different sizes with a thickness measurement (usually between 1-2mm) plus an inner diameter (ID) and outer diameter (OD) measurement. These usually range from 16-22mm. There is sometimes a rubber seal or O ring beneath the plastic shim.
Rob Hernandez different intakes will have different shims so check treatland to find the right one for you. If the seal is bad throw an o ring underneath it.
@@chrisinthecar5689 The carburator i have is missing the plastic shim and O ring and it is also missing the filter and filter cover i will try to find them on treatland as far as the O ring goes i do have plenty of O rings so that part is solved.
On the jet size question is the original jet a 53 like you replied to someone here before? and do you have to make any changes to the motor/tunning if you go with a different size jet? The moped i am restoring is a Peugeot LVS U3
Excellent video very informative.
Thank you for the help
@@chrisinthecar5689 When you start the moped with the choke on does the choke move to the open position once the moped warms up? or do you need to move the choke lever manually to open it?
Thank you
Rob Hernandez the stock jet size varies for different bikes. With this size SHA I’ve only used sizes between 50-70. As long as your timing is right and there are no air leaks you just have to change the jet sizes until you find what’s right. I tend to start at like 65 then work my way down, it’s better to be too rich than too lean when tuning.
Coloquei um desse na minha mobillete e está bebendo muito mais muita gasolina , não sei o que fazer
What do the main jet numbers mean? anyone know?
Thank you
My carburetor is from a 1988' Tomos
I have the m model is it similar
Don't they have pilot jets?
No, the PHVA and PHBG series do. The SHA’s just have a little hole below the Venturi that acts as the pilot jet at idle
Main jet ?
Ast Tony this one has 53 stock but I run 58-62 with my set up
Chinese carbs may have 57 jet but its not acurate....my friend picked up a new bigger jet for his bing 12mm carburetor (found on tomos apn4/6) and since he knows a guy who restores and builds these mopeds from scratch he gave him the jet and he did the maths and it wasnt correct then he fixed it for him
El muelle de de freno chico el que calienta el amoto se asalido
Zo zo
❤
3:41 wtf. WTF >>WTF
Chris Katko This is an alternative method for it the knarp is too big, a problem I have run into more than once. I’ve run it like this for 2 years never had a problem
main jet #57 have bad result ..much rich mix. I intend to change to # 53. Until the injector came, I used a thin copper wire to reduce the flow.
seems #53 to #56 is the best range of use
TAOdaMATA some set ups/years are different, also depends on temperature and altitude
I'll be posting new videos on this channel from now on: ua-cam.com/video/UFK9RqoISZ8/v-deo.html
Krivo si stavio sajlu na siberu
Sometimes the knarp is too big to fit in the hole in the slide, so this is an alternative method. I have had mine like this for 2 years and haven’t had any issues.
That's not how you install the cable!
robertpolicastro1 this is an alternative method for if the knarp is too big, I’ve run mine like this for 2 years with no issues
For anyone wondering, a smaller throttle cable can be threaded through the back hole (flattest part facing the back of the carb) and the cable pulled upwards through the slot in the top of the slide to exit from the top. Essentially reverse of what is in the video. Both methods work fine as long as the slide can function properly
shittest carb ever made .if the idle sgrew does,nt give you a decent idle ,you have to rejet it ,as there no air/fuel mixture sgrew , that was clever idea dellorto ,NOT .and to think aprillia put these on there rs50 bikes 1999 upwards . complete trash of a carb .