Відео

@@KaTzya cable might need adjusting if it’s not actuating the arm when fully open, I have another video on it in shorts.

@@KaTzya ua-cam.com/video/va7ojXjIq70/v-deo.htmlsi=4pqgVR1-bwux-bGX

I'm new to these mopeds, but I had the same issue: my bike would not idle by itself, I had to help it stay running with the throttle. When I'd let go of it... it would die. I noticed first with the air filter removed, that the throttle "door" that is pulled up with the cable... was fully closing when letting go the throttle. I cranked in the idle screw on the side of my carb and it fixed my problem. Door was staying open just a tad to allow air in, and it idle'd pretty good!

@@farmingslo3379 get a new seal washer and tighten it

@@michaelgogos6429 it should not suck air from that location, no. I had this same problem, if you over tighten that cap it’ll warp and leak (poor design). If the paper gasket doesn’t work you can use liquid gasket.

Спасибо

ua-cam.com/video/_FXl7MbeNm0/v-deo.htmlsi=l2SUo0d9BhVd9GKc Did one on a 15mm bing

huh?

@@chrisinthecar5689 i have the same carb on two bikes one works perfectly and one as soon as you rev it it bogs out and dies and honestly im loosing the will to live with it

either lean/rich condition or clogged main jet. possible an air leak. If it's holding strong idle without dying it's def the main jet size. try up/down jetting a few sizes at a time. If it revs like crazy and dies out immediately under load too lean, if it four strokes or sounds like it's gurgling it's too rich @@NoMoreFnGames

@@chrisinthecar5689 it came as a kit off amazon full engine and carb iv burnt a whole tank through on idle went to go play and it just dies constantly now it doesn’t idle for long. Do you know which size jet goes into these ?

amazon carbs are kind of hit or miss, some are bored poorly. If it's a 14.12 I've seen main jets anywhere from 50-70. 58-62 is usually where I start@@NoMoreFnGames

It sounds like the cable was inserted the wrong way, do you have more information?

The choke lever isn’t adjustable (unless you have cable choke), sometimes they get bent and stop working. if it’s idling really high screw out the idle speed screw, or if the idle is erratic or suddenly rises its an air leak. The choke would cause the idle to decrease rpm not increase so I don’t think that’s the problem. Sometimes the carburetor itself can have an air leak on the top gasket, if so it’s best to just buy a new one they are only $50

@@chrisinthecar5689 well im fixing it for a friend.. long story anyways.. the choke remains opened and is stuck like thay, the lever doesn't have any effect (i have exactly the same carburetoe likenyou in the vid mine is made in italy because the bike is aprilia rs50) and carburetor worked fine last time, engine was blown and i fixed that and now it won't idle, it idles fine at start sometimes and when i give it some gas it stays extremely high unitl i pull the spark plug cable or fuel cable.. I'm pretty sure it has something to do with the choke. Thanks for the response your video helped alot

@@srdjankrajcer7612 it’s possible the jetting is too low and it’s leaning out when you give it throttle. Whenever it revs up like that it’s almost always too much air coming in somewhere

@@chrisinthecar5689 yeah i understood that too, and i know the whole engine and everything in my head, i assembled it and spent 50 hours on it, only thing i don't understand is that choke and choke lever..

@@srdjankrajcer7612 does the lever go down at all? Usually the slotted piece that actuates against the choke plate will bend from use and it will keep the arm from moving down. You can take it off and pound it flat w a hammer

Correct there is no vacuum on the SHA models, no problem!

The banjo bolt is where the fuel line attaches, it’s the aluminum piece on the side that sticks out and resembles a banjo. There is no vacuum line on these style carburetors.

You can see it here: ua-cam.com/video/65OUkJ4FcEc/v-deo.html

@@chrisinthecar5689 do you have a viber or instagram so i can send you a picture you will understand i really need help, thanks for the response

Not sure tbh, I’ll check the thread size later

Greatly informative vid! 2 comments. First, as a bass player I truely enjoyed the music you had first lol. Second, on my Batavus, I'm running a Chinese Vespa 12.12 SHA carb with a stock #48 jet and it's running RICH! I am wanting to switch to a 14.12 carb to keep my intake and reeds kinda stock. Would there be an improvement of my sluggish acceleration and modest top speed?

Thanks! Guitar in general like 20 years lol but flamenco on and off for 8 years didn’t get serious about it until last year

Thank you!

It’s an A35 w 70cc airsal kit and biturbo with this carb at 63 main jet^. With A3 it’s usually stock in the 50s range but you might be higher with that pipe. I would start higher and move down, like 60 and if it 4 strokes move it down. If you go too low it’ll suck air and lean bog, which is pretty apparent because it loses all power and makes a ‘waaaa’ sound. Too rich (4 stroking) makes a sound twice as fast as the normal engine sound and it’ll lose power output but usually stays running.

@@chrisinthecar5689 Thanks! I had an airsal kit on my previous bike, i gotta say, you have a pretty small jet for that kit... I had a 17.5mm carb with 90 main jet.

The one off treatland. The runtong clones are the only ones I’d avoid, the milling is inconsistent on those. They are the cheapest but I had one where the idle speed screw just didn’t engage the slide height at all.

thanks buddy!

Thanks buddy!

The inner diameters, 12mm at choke opening and 14mm through the rest

Thanks for the support!

It depends, some of the clones are bad. If you get a runtong from Amazon I’ve seen them have bad milling on the idle screw. Usually good to go with a reputable one from treatland or dos cycles

@@chrisinthecar5689 Thank you! I was just about to order a runtong😅

With my setup I have 63, but stock bikes can vary. I’ve never seen lower than 50 or higher than 70.

It could be a number of things. Is it new or used?

@@chrisinthecar5689 is used,but looks good,idk

@@ionutu11 I would check for compression, then air leaks and tuning. Also check fuel delivery between tank and carburetor

You need to really clean the top of the jet (by that I mean where the screwdriver slot is) and rub vigorously on a coarse cloth, but not anything abrasive. This should remove any dried sediment. Then examine it under a magnifying glass - then you can make out the stamped number. You should also just see the Dellorto logo. It really does need magnification though, I certainly couldn't read it without.

@@NPMTrialsVideo Thank you! Will do.

@@SDsailor7 Hi Rob/ Probably a bit late in the date for you, but I left essentially for anyone else who may encounter the same issue identifying the jet size. Thanks for the acknowledgement.

Rob Hernandez the plastic shim comes in many different sizes with a thickness measurement (usually between 1-2mm) plus an inner diameter (ID) and outer diameter (OD) measurement. These usually range from 16-22mm. There is sometimes a rubber seal or O ring beneath the plastic shim.

Rob Hernandez different intakes will have different shims so check treatland to find the right one for you. If the seal is bad throw an o ring underneath it.

@@chrisinthecar5689 The carburator i have is missing the plastic shim and O ring and it is also missing the filter and filter cover i will try to find them on treatland as far as the O ring goes i do have plenty of O rings so that part is solved. On the jet size question is the original jet a 53 like you replied to someone here before? and do you have to make any changes to the motor/tunning if you go with a different size jet? The moped i am restoring is a Peugeot LVS U3 Excellent video very informative. Thank you for the help

@@chrisinthecar5689 When you start the moped with the choke on does the choke move to the open position once the moped warms up? or do you need to move the choke lever manually to open it? Thank you

Rob Hernandez the stock jet size varies for different bikes. With this size SHA I’ve only used sizes between 50-70. As long as your timing is right and there are no air leaks you just have to change the jet sizes until you find what’s right. I tend to start at like 65 then work my way down, it’s better to be too rich than too lean when tuning.

I have to check them, good looks. this video was made just to be a card on another video

@@chrisinthecar5689 well thanks for making it you helped me out