There’s a fine line! I’m currently limited by cooling, this has happened to me a couple of times, hitting the sweet spot between cool enough to add a layer to and cold gets more tricky ! In pursuit of speed ive not had drama with it being too cold yet, before the speed pursuit I had a few vase mode prints you could peel into a slinky !
Unecessary cooling reduces layer adhesion greatly. The ideal amount of cooling is just enough to have the object keep its shape. If staying as close to that line as possible all the time, you have the best possible layer adhesion. Any amount of unrequired cooling reduces it. To set up the layer times and fan speeds properly for minimum fan usage, I'd do it like this: (for PLA) Set the print speed to the highest you would normally go. Print a slim, single pillar. The diameter should be somewhere around 3-5 mm. Print it with 0% regular fan speed, 100% maximum fan speed, 30 sec. threshold and a low minimum layer time, like 3-7 sec - depending on the pillar's diameter, and on how fast "fast" means for your setup. Also set the minimum print speed to a low value, to have this out of the way. Manually reduce the fan speed until the pillar starts to loose its shape / melts. Remember the value and change the maximum fan speed to just a little more than this, then start a new print with the same pillar and fine-tune it. Always let pillar grow a little after changing the fan speed - the heat can add up vertically, softening it after a while. Try to get to the point where any more cooling doesn't improve anything anymore. Inspect the part thoroughly for heat damage. That's your cooling for a high print speed. Create a new profile for the material, with the addition "fast" or something like that. Now you want to create a profile for a slow print speed to get the maximum possible layer adhesion. What means exchanging cooling for print speed. Set the print speed to the slowest you would normally go for a high quality print. You want to reduce the speed for small layers as much as possible, to require as little cooling for them as possible. Increase minimum layer time by some seconds and reduce the cooling until the pillar deforms. Keep the cooling, increase the layer time, restart. Do this up to the point where the time increment doesn't help anymore to prevent heat damage or the speed is too slow for a proper extrusion. Take the value with the highest possible layer time before the damage and create an new profile, with the addition "tough" or similiar. Now you have to find out the threshold setting for both profiles. This part is time consuming. Print pillars of increasing diameters, one after the other, until you know how large the layer needs to be (layer-time wise) to require no cooling anymore. Start with a pillar of like 10 mm diameter and a threshold of like 10-15 sec. Re-print it while step-wise reducing the threshold until you have heat damage again. Keep the threshold and take a larger pillar with like 15 mm diameter and do the same. Repeat, until you get to the diameter where you can't cause any heat damage anymore by reducing the threshold. Either take the starting value from this print, or fine-tune it with the diameters inbetween, to get a more accurate result. That's your threshold setting. Do this for both profiles. When set up properly, the intensity of the cooling basically follows the layer temperature at minimum requirement all the time, leading to a more consistent result with less internal tensions and the best possible layer adhesion for the set print speed. But keep in mind that this is fine tuning, so don't expect it to work the in the same way at 100 °F in midsummer if you've set it up at 70 °F in winter. Doing some quick adjustments to make up for that is not such a big deal though.
Awesome, thanks to you MirageC I now understand that part cooling is a matter of *relative* temperature drop across the threshold between the laid track still being a molten thermoplastic, or a semi molten 'lava', and then becoming a solid, hardened lava flow. But the important thing is that material phase transition. Which is actually different and must be tuned for different plastics. Nobody ever explained that to me before! So for a higher temperature thermo plastic, such as polycarbonate.... the base chamber temperature must be maintained higher. To prevent too fast shrinking / warping of larger parts. With a slow enough cool down time at the end of the print. So in other fields, it is a bit like an s,d soldering reflow oven, but in reverse! Thank you for explaining! P.S Love the solution. BTW for the little tubes system... why not try to improve it further, and increase it's CFM by making larger diameter tubes? Or more holes to distribute the irrigation. Maybe there is some inherent thermodynamic limitation due to the pressure differential? I was more expecting this type of a system should be supplied from an air compressor. And then regulate the airflow with a valve. Was it because the printed manifold was too weak to support any higher pressure? Why not instead try to find off the shelf Y part to split the line? Then it can be metal. There are many such accessories and adaptors for air hoses. Or the steam engines for model railways. etc. Of course I am being ignorant! There must be other design / engineering constraints and considerations. Which I am not aware of!
Awesome! It kinda makes sense. The other solutions will only blow air at the area that was just printed, while the hevacs will blow cooler air everywhere and will cool the whole part. Thanks for the video and sharing your idea!
Really good informative video. My two takeaways: 1. most printers don't have much cooling with their stock fan (my prusa also has one of those mini fans) and 2. having global cooling instead of hotend-mounted can truly aid whenever you print wide/long prints or perhaps multiple separate ones. I've installed a 120mm fan today blowing on the bed and was wondering if that was worth the effort, and the answer seems to be: yes. Might add another one with a different angle later.
Warping will occur with materials that are prone to warp. Since the fans are very easily controllable with pulse width modulation (PWM) you can set them to as low as 2 or 3% adding a recirculation function, this could be tested with material requiring use of enclosure such as ABS. Heated airflow could even be possible.
This is what I was thinking that it would be a good system for. To "cool" the layers but only to a specific point for materials like ABS, by having it be a recirculating system for a temperature controlled chamber.
i very interresting test - the question is rather what you want to achieve. I had a setup with a Wade Extruder with to 4010 fans blowing without any shroud - this worked really well, while it "should not" If layer time is you problem go for HevACS - cooling the whole print If overhangs are your problem go for a concetrated cooling right a the nozzle. or just take both :) Please continue this series!
Great Video! It would be interesting to redo the test with all the different cooling types but testing for layer adhesion. Is the HevACS too efficient at cooling making the layer adhesion poor?
From what I have noticed, strong cooling at the nozzle will cool a thin layer of the molten plastic really rapidly creating some kind of a shell. This shell interferes with the bonding process. What I am proposing here, is to leave alone the freshly extruded material and let it deposit and bond to the previous layer. Then cool it slowly, but deeply. I need to to test coupons and use Thomas's methodology: ua-cam.com/video/a6m_GnN5j4c/v-deo.html
@@MirageC HevACS cools down whole print rapidly, but not freezing the fresh molten plastic at the nozzle. Does that means it will have lower performance for bridging? Perhaps both berd air and HevACS have their own strengths.
CNCkitchen proofs that too much cooling lowers part strength quite a bit. It would be good to see if there is or can be an optimum for your design. But I'm quite jealous of your printers! Cheers for all the Infos!
Yes i do agree with that statement. What i discovered is that brutal cooling to the molten freshly extruded molten plastic will create a thin shell of solidified material at the surface if that material just before it is being layed down. This affects layer bonding pretty bad. The HevACS rely on cooling material after it was laid down by sinking the heat through the part. I need to complete that series of video in HevACS and part property.
Very good work, thanks! I would like to see the printed parts. How does their surface quality & mechanical properties changes with different cooling types?
Really cool! Thank you! I was thinking about berd air years before 😂! Very nice to see that this solution works pretty good in compare to the 5015 solutions
The HevACS setup is a very good candidate for the heated chamber 3D printer I'm working on! Using materials and fans that can handle high temperatures, of course...
Yes, I am very curious to try it with ABS and other materials requiring an enclosure. I am planning to try some re-circulation and potentially added heater in the future.
Its a shame that the big fans need the bed as the z axis to work, at least with this design. Also, is this a reupload? Could've swore I've seen this before.
It doesn't really, I'd even gather it's easier to do on a bed slinger if you make the space for it as you don't need any sliding ducts extending the entire height of your printer, you can just mount the fan with a nozzle on it. On this system, you need to engineer ducts that hold air pressure and telescope with the entire Z axis, which MirageC did, which imho is the greater part of this engineering practice, making a moving and shape changing part airtight is not easy.
Even tho the cooling is amazing I'm still sceptical: The HevACS seems to use the bed to guide the air towards the print. As you print higher and higher this effect will become saller and your cooling characteristics will change. My second concern is the Power consumtion of the bed, trying to keep its temp while beeing cooled like nothing else. An economical consideration comes to my mind with that power consumtion: can you increase the print speed due to cooling more than it rises your Maschine hour rate? I live in Germany and the electricity-costs are quite high here.
As the bed moves down, the heat radiating from it moves away from the nozzle. The air flow from the HevACS works best when the air nozzles are pointing slightly downwards, This ensures that the part walls are not shielding internals from cooling. So no, the bed has little impact on air direction. Look at the part in the video with tissues attached to the nozzle.
What if you add a water cooling loop that is attached to the cold end of a peltier and improve the HevACS. So in essence the air will go through a cooling radiator that will chill it a touch to increase cooling even further. you need 2 water loops one for the cold side of the peltier and one for the hot side or just slap a heat-sink on the hot side to be dissipated somewhere else. Think the Arctic aspect will be fully justified at this point.
you didn't say how the bedair was mounted, if it's out of the chamber it makes sense it would cool more than the 5015 i think. then again the hevACS in a chamber at 70-80c, cooling the part to ambient would also add strength to the part. so fast + strong is a good thing. too cold and the new layer doesn't bond as well to the previous. i think stratasys has a patent on laser heating the previous layer to bonding temp... pretty cool.
The more I play with cooling the more I realize that cooling material at nozzle output is not the best way to do it. Cooling right after deposit and using the part to sink heat is the way to get good layer bonding and clean prints.
This is similar to what stratasys does on some of their machines. If you were patent surfing, you would have seen this before. Stratasys patent surfing is an excellent way to see new ways to up your game. They take this idea a step further and add a heating element after the fan such that the air is pre-heated hotter than what the fan could normally tolerate. Unfortunately, the power bill is strong with that design.
I would print just ABOVE the surface of water, this way layer bonding is not disrupted. This would allow for massive heat sinkning into the part. I have thought of it too ... ;)
Wondering how a compressor with aftercooler would do. The expansion of room-temperature compressed air, should cool down the surroundings insanely fast.
what a deceivingly simple solution to part cooling. I guess since most consumer printers aren't core XY, it never registered that that this could work. since printers like the HevORT always have the top layer in the same spot, it works like a charm. Layer adhesion is probably the only concern, PETG might not print very well, I'd love to see a colab with @CNC Kitchen.
I ordered an ender6 .. will make an adaptation ... I will use some ducts to get air form the bottom or outside if chamber heating is not needed. I do think you need a core xy or semi (like ender5) which physically lowers the bed to implement this with sanity :D I will post the results.
hybrid system? We have seen easy prints, but how HevACS performs with large objects and how much it actually cools in the center having walls close to the air outlet. It would be useful to see if a hybrid system consisting of HevACS and berd-air is necessary for this scenario or in not needed for the HevACS system. However excelent project and realization, good work
For material prone to warp it is rare that we need extreme cooling solution. If HevACS was to be used, I would recommend having a system to warm up the air to avoid too much thermal retraction.
I actually want to mount big ol' 120mm Noctua fan and make a duct similar to NH-AAS system to blow wider part of the bed, not just the nozzle. This video showed to me that it might actually not be as big brain fart as I thought
I thought I was having an episode of Deja Vu while I was watching this, and then I saw your comment about it being a redo of a previous video. I guess I'm not going completely crazy after all!! :)) I think it's GREAT to do this kind of experimentation because it can help determine if enhanced cooling will help, and if so, ways to improve that cooling. However, I have a couple suggestions for you that I believe will help make your results more transfer-able for actual improved print quality. (Maybe they've already occurred to you.) 1) I think it would help if you can use your FLIR in such a way that it can be 'calibrated' from one test to the next. I've also had trouble using my camera with different ambient conditions where the temperatures don't equate from one image to another. I think the automatic gain control (AGC) takes whatever temperature range present in the ENTIRE image, and re-maps it to the colors it can display. This works great so that we can look at our house in winter to find heat leaks, and then use the same camera for printer tests, but that feature kinda works against you now. a) Can you turn off the AGC feature? b) Could mask off areas in the field of view that are at room temperature to prevent them from adding cool temps to the AGC range? Maybe cardboard painted black or white, or some other opaque and non-heat-conductive material would work? c) Maybe you could also have one item in the field of view that's always the same temperature for calibration. For instance, maybe you could always have the nozzle in the image since the nozzle temperature is well controlled on 3D printers and is thus both stable and the hottest item in the field of view. If it were always the same color, and everything else were compared to that, I think more meaningful info could be seen from one cooling setup to another. 2) Long print passes are great for understanding and comparing the 'theoretical' cooling capabilities of your various setups, but for me they don't apply very well to the real world cooling problems that I have had. They do equate well to 'vase mode' prints, but I don't think I've ever had a cooling problem with vase mode, even when they have overhangs. It's more intricate pieces, with a many small loops, so that the print head comes back to add the next layer to a feature before it has had a chance to cool adequately. For instance items designed using Voronoi Style (with overhangs) are what I've had the most trouble with, and are great examples that would be better tests. Of course, as you mentioned, a Benchy will also be good, as would other printer 'test pieces' that I've seen on the Internet. Bottom line: I think what you're doing is really cool (terribly bad pun intended) and warrants the work you're doing. I think with some tweaking of your experimental methods, you can learn even more. In fact, I haven't looked around, but I'll bet there are other geeky guys (like you and I) who've done UA-cam videos on this. Continued good luck! I'm really interested in seeing what you discover.
First of all, thank you for your comment and constructive feedback. It is really appreciated. As for the FLIR calibration, I am pretty sure I had the auto calibration off. But in any case the Nozzle and bed are at constant temperature between all tests. And you just gave me an idea of cooling demonstration using vase mode and HevACS. In can outrun the normal cooling pretty quick using vase mode only on my printer. A simple 40mm diameter cylinder printed at 0.2mm layer can suffer from insufficient cooling when going fast enough with this printer. My struggle right now is trying to move around a heavy heater block fast enough at high jerk/accel without loosing steps. Two things can happen, lighter heater block with same efficiency or stronger motors. I am trying to resolve both situation. Heater block: Nova Hot end is in the mail. Motors: I am currently testing Servo Motors: ua-cam.com/video/m6DoKoESPdg/v-deo.html&t
@@MirageC Thanks for the reply, and I'm glad you thought I was being constructive. I am definitely not an expert on FLIR cameras. I have one, but I haven't used it enough to check out all its features. My thinking was to minimize, and standardize, the difference between the hottest and coldest item in the field of view (FOV). If the AGC works as I think, it applies its color map to the ENTIRE range of temperatures in the FOV. So the smaller the overall difference allows for the greatest resolution. And if temperature of the nozzle ALWAYS defines the upper limit, and for instance, the bed temperature always defines the lower limit, then you have repeatability for all images. So if you can eliminate colder areas (e.g. room temperature items in the background) from the FOV, it might help. Anyway this is my 'theory', though like I said, it might be errant. I saw your video on the high speed servo motors. I'm not surprised you can lay down filament too quickly when printing a 40mm cylinder. I was talking about using vase mode to create an actual vase because my wife's bouquets have always been larger than that. :)) I'm glad to hear that my input gave you a new idea. In my experience great ideas are always built by assimilating and improving upon the ideas of many others. Again, I'll be looking for your results. I'm sure they will be fascinating.
Do you have the stl's for that last fan option? I would love to try this on my coreXY printer. Using the cooler air and bring it up to the top while adding zero weight to the printer head is pure genius! Awesome video
Trying to dial in my cooling system and engineering a new hotend system for printing PC with my Hemera. Should I be drawing in cool air for the part cooling from outside the enclosure or use the warm enclosure air? I am worried about cooling the filament too much if the hotend has a high residency in one area, my thinking is that the cooling air should not be lower than the chamber temperature unless you need extreme cooling.
Extreme cooling is mainly used when printing small components extremely fast. In all cases you should aim at getting the previous layer below glass transition point before the next layer comes. Side ducts will help in sinking heat into the part rather than freezing the material at nozzle output (which could lead to adhesion problems). If your material is prone to warp, Chamber hot air at higher fan speed is preferred to "cool" the part. Cooling with hot air... Sounds weird, but you get the point ;)
You should use a rectangular flexible air duct for the Hevacs to connect the lower duct part with the output vent so that the output vent moves with the z axis abd provides consistent air flow for the model
You don't want the output vent to move with the bed, you want it to remain pointing at the level at which the printing is performed, which is at a fixed height in this printer.
Dude keep up the great work! I can't believe you only have 9k subs. I would be shocked if you were not well past 50k subscribers in 6 months if you upload like once a week xd
total power consumption would be interesting as well? Ages ago i used something similar with a ~15W 80mm fan, but it was not directed it was also cooling the bed a bit, and only from one side which made for ... some curious cooling characteristics :)
The third idea (HevACS), with the fixed two ducts either side of the bed, is exactly how some of the early HP-branded Stratasys printers worked! However, they may have used centrifugal blowers rather than axial fans.
@@jblaterfire you may be right. I can’t recall if the heater was elsewhere or whether there was one with each blower. Either way it worked beautifully for ABS yes.
@@timmturner if the printer can do 60 degree just fine with out a tilt. then if the bed can tilt 30 degrees then it can handle the remaining 30 degree to 90
Yes! Sometimes the best solution can not be used because of patents. They also draw the cooling air from outside the heated enclosure using a blower and pipe it to the nozzle through some tubes.
A bit late, have you considered using a high cfm fan and then using ducting/piping to connect it to the hotend ducts? I've got a prusa mini where print head weight is limiting the cooling capacity.
@@MirageC I was thinking more along using high power fans (like server fans) running through ducting attached to the hotend. Essentially a Bowden setup for fan cooling. That way you get concentrated air around the hotend but high volume.
IF that's the case, wouldn't that invalidate your tests due to heat soak or lack there-of? The proper way would be to print individual parts for each setting and record results at a set layer height.
I PID tuned each type of filament while having the fans at the desired value. These PID values are called up when I load the corresponding filament. So the board know how much PWM is "normal" under each condition.
That could work, but it will be affecting negatively the print quality as the molten material is being pushed down or sideways by the air pressure. Bridging can be difficult with too much Berd-Air.
It is really depending on the shape of the part printed and the material used. A small pla parts will need a lot of focused cooling while a large abs part will need a light breeze on the freshly deposited layer. HevACS is meant to add cooling on materials requiring a lot of cooling during fast printing where the head does not stay in the same spot long enough to cool properly.
I would love that HevACS on my V-King 400X400X400, adequate cooling to really take advantage of the faster print speed capability of my printer is my next project
Do you need to make any compensations to temperature for all that air blowing over the non target part of the hotend? Great idea by the way. Very smart and solid logic. Guess would only be viable for printers with beds which drop.
Would be able to try a diffused shop air line (100psi) for part cooling? I was thinking about trying this myself but you already have the setup going for you.
It could work, but you have to be carefully not to create a hard shell around that molten material. There is a certain point after which too much cooling over a too small period of time will no longer work.
Thank you! I have been obsessing about what fan duct to use to optimize my cooling, but now I am realizing that no fan duct can ever compare to blasting the bed with air, because the fan duct just focuses on one tiny part when the whole layer needs cooling. What do you think about just mounting an oscillating floor fan and pointing it at the bed?
I wonder how much this method would be affected by using warm air from a heated enclosure? If the air is 50C will it still cool very fast? It becomes a fan oven, essentially lol!
Since i can't test it currently i may as well toss this out since you might be able to. What about using a small peltier module to blast actively cool air to a part.
I have tried other methods to cool drastically the part and I found that a thin hard shell of plastic forms at the surface of the molten plastic, creating awful print quality and poor layer adhesion.
Doesn't this trigger the thermal runaway on the heater ? Even if the silicone sock is put still it would at times cause a thermal runaway error and stop the print...How do you get about that issue?
I created a filament profile that loads a different PID tune set of parameters. This will avoid to have thermal runaway condition when using such system.
I am experimenting with 60 psi compressed air nowadays. Due to the pressure change at release it becomes quite cold. I did not measure it yet though. you can see it in action here: ua-cam.com/video/h-ukClHtai4/v-deo.html
I believe someone from railcore said they had issues with too much fanspeed. I couldnt press for more details. What would happen if there was too much cooling? Layer adhesion may be affected? Anything else? I am super interested to try an active fan now! My printer has a moving Y axis bed so my cooling wont be as uniform as yours.
The main advantage of the HevACS (or side cooling) is that it is focusing the cooling to the part NOT the material being laid down. So the material being extruded keeps its heat and will slowly be cooled after touching the part. The cooling will be gradual over a longer period of time. Ensuring better layer adhesion and better stiffness for next layer to be deposit.
This is the one I am using (24V, brushless, parralel) : www.aliexpress.com/item/4000601429521.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.7b5967b5QrIbK8&algo_pvid=f9d7e42c-66d7-43b6-9c63-736c077121c3&algo_expid=f9d7e42c-66d7-43b6-9c63-736c077121c3-27&btsid=0b0a556716129933990647398e4dd5&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_
@@eugeyatsu1100 You would be better into looking at Klipper Firmware installed on a raspberry pi. You can then connect any driver board via USB. triple z is a native function of Klipper.
Quality definately benefits from the HevACS , especially for PLA. Overhangs on smaller part are much easier to achieve. Layer adhesion does not seem to suffer from it. But that needs to be measured properly.
By the way the south pole is not Antartica it's the Arctic. So it should be "Arc tic cooling system" The Artic is much colder then the Antartic. 10 times colder in Summer and Twice as colder in winter.
I realise this is a reupload but it convinced me to sub. The implications for weight saving and ease of reconfiguring hotend/nozzle etc on the print carriage are significant, if you can shift the cooling to the frame. I would like to see if it causes bed temperature issues, if you are able to test some more.
Yes, I am deeply sorry about the repost, but audio from previous version was WAY too low. I needed to fix that but could not find another way of doing it without creating a new video, As for the impact on the bed, I am using a 750W 120VAC Keenovo Heat Pad. When properly PID tuned with HevACS on, it can keep up a stable temp just fine and the impact on controller board voltage is null. The question is, is the difference between bed surface temp and thermistor increasing when using the HevACS? That would need to be investigated. But at this point, using HevACS would be for material with very low warping coefficient like PLA. Where bed temp needs to be maintained high enough so the part remains anchored to the build plate. Accuracy of that temp might be affected by the HevACS for the first few layers only. As the build plate is moving down, the impact will decrease to null.
@@MirageC absolutely no need to apologise . I would have missed this if you hadn't! Thanks for the additional thoughts. I wonder if it would be possible to make the jets as laminar as possible to minimise surface cooling of the bed at the beginning. I think it would also be fine to put insulating mat strips over parts of the bed not required for levelling or the print. May save a few Watts and stop the chamber heating up too much if that's undesirable. Of course, plenty of prints don't need too much cooling so even a little movement could be just fine.
I'd love to see layer strength and bridging tests with those, because having the previous layer still hot might be better.
There’s a fine line! I’m currently limited by cooling, this has happened to me a couple of times, hitting the sweet spot between cool enough to add a layer to and cold gets more tricky ! In pursuit of speed ive not had drama with it being too cold yet, before the speed pursuit I had a few vase mode prints you could peel into a slinky !
Unecessary cooling reduces layer adhesion greatly. The ideal amount of cooling is just enough to have the object keep its shape. If staying as close to that line as possible all the time, you have the best possible layer adhesion. Any amount of unrequired cooling reduces it. To set up the layer times and fan speeds properly for minimum fan usage, I'd do it like this: (for PLA)
Set the print speed to the highest you would normally go.
Print a slim, single pillar. The diameter should be somewhere around 3-5 mm.
Print it with 0% regular fan speed, 100% maximum fan speed, 30 sec. threshold and a low minimum layer time, like 3-7 sec - depending on the pillar's diameter, and on how fast "fast" means for your setup.
Also set the minimum print speed to a low value, to have this out of the way.
Manually reduce the fan speed until the pillar starts to loose its shape / melts. Remember the value and change the maximum fan speed to just a little more than this, then start a new print with the same pillar and fine-tune it.
Always let pillar grow a little after changing the fan speed - the heat can add up vertically, softening it after a while.
Try to get to the point where any more cooling doesn't improve anything anymore.
Inspect the part thoroughly for heat damage. That's your cooling for a high print speed.
Create a new profile for the material, with the addition "fast" or something like that.
Now you want to create a profile for a slow print speed to get the maximum possible layer adhesion. What means exchanging cooling for print speed.
Set the print speed to the slowest you would normally go for a high quality print.
You want to reduce the speed for small layers as much as possible, to require as little cooling for them as possible. Increase minimum layer time by some seconds and reduce the cooling until the pillar deforms.
Keep the cooling, increase the layer time, restart. Do this up to the point where the time increment doesn't help anymore to prevent heat damage or the speed is too slow for a proper extrusion.
Take the value with the highest possible layer time before the damage and create an new profile, with the addition "tough" or similiar.
Now you have to find out the threshold setting for both profiles.
This part is time consuming. Print pillars of increasing diameters, one after the other, until you know how large the layer needs to be (layer-time wise) to require no cooling anymore.
Start with a pillar of like 10 mm diameter and a threshold of like 10-15 sec. Re-print it while step-wise reducing the threshold until you have heat damage again.
Keep the threshold and take a larger pillar with like 15 mm diameter and do the same. Repeat, until you get to the diameter where you can't cause any heat damage anymore by reducing the threshold.
Either take the starting value from this print, or fine-tune it with the diameters inbetween, to get a more accurate result.
That's your threshold setting.
Do this for both profiles.
When set up properly, the intensity of the cooling basically follows the layer temperature at minimum requirement all the time, leading to a more consistent result with less internal tensions and the best possible layer adhesion for the set print speed.
But keep in mind that this is fine tuning, so don't expect it to work the in the same way at 100 °F in midsummer
if you've set it up at 70 °F in winter.
Doing some quick adjustments to make up for that is not such a big deal though.
Your 3d Printer is so overengineered.... I LOVE IT!
Is it really over engineering if your printer is so fast?
Awesome, thanks to you MirageC I now understand that part cooling is a matter of *relative* temperature drop across the threshold between the laid track still being a molten thermoplastic, or a semi molten 'lava', and then becoming a solid, hardened lava flow. But the important thing is that material phase transition. Which is actually different and must be tuned for different plastics. Nobody ever explained that to me before! So for a higher temperature thermo plastic, such as polycarbonate.... the base chamber temperature must be maintained higher. To prevent too fast shrinking / warping of larger parts. With a slow enough cool down time at the end of the print. So in other fields, it is a bit like an s,d soldering reflow oven, but in reverse! Thank you for explaining!
P.S Love the solution. BTW for the little tubes system... why not try to improve it further, and increase it's CFM by making larger diameter tubes? Or more holes to distribute the irrigation. Maybe there is some inherent thermodynamic limitation due to the pressure differential? I was more expecting this type of a system should be supplied from an air compressor. And then regulate the airflow with a valve.
Was it because the printed manifold was too weak to support any higher pressure? Why not instead try to find off the shelf Y part to split the line? Then it can be metal. There are many such accessories and adaptors for air hoses. Or the steam engines for model railways. etc. Of course I am being ignorant! There must be other design / engineering constraints and considerations. Which I am not aware of!
Awesome! It kinda makes sense. The other solutions will only blow air at the area that was just printed, while the hevacs will blow cooler air everywhere and will cool the whole part.
Thanks for the video and sharing your idea!
Really good informative video. My two takeaways: 1. most printers don't have much cooling with their stock fan (my prusa also has one of those mini fans) and 2. having global cooling instead of hotend-mounted can truly aid whenever you print wide/long prints or perhaps multiple separate ones. I've installed a 120mm fan today blowing on the bed and was wondering if that was worth the effort, and the answer seems to be: yes. Might add another one with a different angle later.
does it cool the print bed itself too much and does that cause an issue with warping/adhesion?
It's likely going to cool the bed only in the initial layers, as the bed moves down that issue may not be there.
Warping will occur with materials that are prone to warp. Since the fans are very easily controllable with pulse width modulation (PWM) you can set them to as low as 2 or 3% adding a recirculation function, this could be tested with material requiring use of enclosure such as ABS. Heated airflow could even be possible.
This is what I was thinking that it would be a good system for. To "cool" the layers but only to a specific point for materials like ABS, by having it be a recirculating system for a temperature controlled chamber.
i very interresting test - the question is rather what you want to achieve.
I had a setup with a Wade Extruder with to 4010 fans blowing without any shroud - this worked really well, while it "should not"
If layer time is you problem go for HevACS - cooling the whole print
If overhangs are your problem go for a concetrated cooling right a the nozzle.
or just take both :)
Please continue this series!
Great Video! It would be interesting to redo the test with all the different cooling types but testing for layer adhesion. Is the HevACS too efficient at cooling making the layer adhesion poor?
Very interesting! How is layer adhesion with the HevACS?
Excellent comparison! I'll make also some tests with a similar HevACS on a Prusa-style printer. Very good videos 👏😎
you can invert them to the top and align with every axis along the hotend
Notice how HevACS is similar to HAVCs.
Very interesting! I might test out a version of the Hevacs system om my Ymir Corexy 600x600x600. Keep up the good work. :)
Wow you really pushing the envelope of what can be done; I'll probably add this type of cooling to my Tronxy X5S. Thanks for the videos!
This is interesting, but what about layer bonding ? As you print over a cold layer the bond is not optimal and the part is not as strong as expected.
From what I have noticed, strong cooling at the nozzle will cool a thin layer of the molten plastic really rapidly creating some kind of a shell. This shell interferes with the bonding process. What I am proposing here, is to leave alone the freshly extruded material and let it deposit and bond to the previous layer. Then cool it slowly, but deeply. I need to to test coupons and use Thomas's methodology: ua-cam.com/video/a6m_GnN5j4c/v-deo.html
@@MirageC HevACS cools down whole print rapidly, but not freezing the fresh molten plastic at the nozzle. Does that means it will have lower performance for bridging? Perhaps both berd air and HevACS have their own strengths.
CNCkitchen proofs that too much cooling lowers part strength quite a bit. It would be good to see if there is or can be an optimum for your design. But I'm quite jealous of your printers! Cheers for all the Infos!
Yes i do agree with that statement. What i discovered is that brutal cooling to the molten freshly extruded molten plastic will create a thin shell of solidified material at the surface if that material just before it is being layed down. This affects layer bonding pretty bad. The HevACS rely on cooling material after it was laid down by sinking the heat through the part. I need to complete that series of video in HevACS and part property.
Great video, very well done! I ordered the 2020 and 3030 today to start my own build.
Great job 👍
Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍😊
Very good work, thanks! I would like to see the printed parts. How does their surface quality & mechanical properties changes with different cooling types?
I wonder if the Berd system cools better also because its pulling air from outside the print area. The 5015 draws in air from right above the hot bed.
Really cool! Thank you! I was thinking about berd air years before 😂! Very nice to see that this solution works pretty good in compare to the 5015 solutions
Love to see so much inovation in one orinter. Great job, cant wait for test prints.
The HevACS setup is a very good candidate for the heated chamber 3D printer I'm working on! Using materials and fans that can handle high temperatures, of course...
Yes, I am very curious to try it with ABS and other materials requiring an enclosure. I am planning to try some re-circulation and potentially added heater in the future.
Its a shame that the big fans need the bed as the z axis to work, at least with this design.
Also, is this a reupload? Could've swore I've seen this before.
yes, it is a re-upload. I have put a note to that effect in the comments. The audio in the previous version was really low. Sorry for the confusion.
I'm sure it's possible to put (an array of) large fans on the Z axis of a i3 style printer too
It's still possible to do on a prusa like on with just a bit more fans or flexible air ducting
It doesn't really, I'd even gather it's easier to do on a bed slinger if you make the space for it as you don't need any sliding ducts extending the entire height of your printer, you can just mount the fan with a nozzle on it.
On this system, you need to engineer ducts that hold air pressure and telescope with the entire Z axis, which MirageC did, which imho is the greater part of this engineering practice, making a moving and shape changing part airtight is not easy.
Any update on the ACS system?
I'm designing my own printer and wandering if it a good solution
Wouldn't happen to have the stl for the fan shrouds by chance?
Even tho the cooling is amazing I'm still sceptical:
The HevACS seems to use the bed to guide the air towards the print. As you print higher and higher this effect will become saller and your cooling characteristics will change.
My second concern is the Power consumtion of the bed, trying to keep its temp while beeing cooled like nothing else. An economical consideration comes to my mind with that power consumtion: can you increase the print speed due to cooling more than it rises your Maschine hour rate? I live in Germany and the electricity-costs are quite high here.
As the bed moves down, the heat radiating from it moves away from the nozzle. The air flow from the HevACS works best when the air nozzles are pointing slightly downwards, This ensures that the part walls are not shielding internals from cooling.
So no, the bed has little impact on air direction. Look at the part in the video with tissues attached to the nozzle.
@@MirageC Ahh, I see. Thank you very much for clarification.
Love it. We need the part 2, please! :)
I know!! working on it... amongst sooo many other things....
In Fusion 360, there's a built in coil tool. No need to painstakingly model a spiral with splines.
What if you add a water cooling loop that is attached to the cold end of a peltier and improve the HevACS. So in essence the air will go through a cooling radiator that will chill it a touch to increase cooling even further. you need 2 water loops one for the cold side of the peltier and one for the hot side or just slap a heat-sink on the hot side to be dissipated somewhere else. Think the Arctic aspect will be fully justified at this point.
Wonderful set of tests thankyou for showing them to us
you didn't say how the bedair was mounted, if it's out of the chamber it makes sense it would cool more than the 5015 i think. then again the hevACS in a chamber at 70-80c, cooling the part to ambient would also add strength to the part. so fast + strong is a good thing. too cold and the new layer doesn't bond as well to the previous. i think stratasys has a patent on laser heating the previous layer to bonding temp... pretty cool.
The more I play with cooling the more I realize that cooling material at nozzle output is not the best way to do it. Cooling right after deposit and using the part to sink heat is the way to get good layer bonding and clean prints.
thumbs up just for the hevACS naming reason LOL. your printer is just awe inspiring id be scared to turn my printer up 1/4 the speed your going.
This is similar to what stratasys does on some of their machines. If you were patent surfing, you would have seen this before. Stratasys patent surfing is an excellent way to see new ways to up your game. They take this idea a step further and add a heating element after the fan such that the air is pre-heated hotter than what the fan could normally tolerate. Unfortunately, the power bill is strong with that design.
from FLIR to fast 3D printing with HevACS. Cool Antarctic cooling system.
Yes, the pun related to Heating, Ventilation and Air conditioning (HEVAC) was kind of intended :)
Whats that circular shape/helper fusion360 plugin seen at: 2:12
anyone?
@@tollinsky That's 3Dconnexion's radial menu.
Wonder if one could have the print bed submerged in fluid, with the nozzle tip printing just below the surface. Maybe an interresting experiment.
I would print just ABOVE the surface of water, this way layer bonding is not disrupted. This would allow for massive heat sinkning into the part. I have thought of it too ... ;)
Wondering how a compressor with aftercooler would do.
The expansion of room-temperature compressed air, should cool down the surroundings insanely fast.
what a deceivingly simple solution to part cooling. I guess since most consumer printers aren't core XY, it never registered that that this could work. since printers like the HevORT always have the top layer in the same spot, it works like a charm. Layer adhesion is probably the only concern, PETG might not print very well, I'd love to see a colab with @CNC Kitchen.
The thing I love with the HEVACS is how easy it would be to transform that into a heated "hoven" printer
I ordered an ender6 .. will make an adaptation ... I will use some ducts to get air form the bottom or outside if chamber heating is not needed. I do think you need a core xy or semi (like ender5) which physically lowers the bed to implement this with sanity :D I will post the results.
awesome comparison!
how about turbo fans from vacuum cleaners?
can you share the berd-air nozzle cooling please i have delta predator
hybrid system?
We have seen easy prints, but how HevACS performs with large objects and how much it actually cools in the center having walls close to the air outlet.
It would be useful to see if a hybrid system consisting of HevACS and berd-air is necessary for this scenario or in not needed for the HevACS system.
However excelent project and realization, good work
Curious to see how the HevACS would affect bed adhesion for filaments that have a tendency to warp such as ABS...
For material prone to warp it is rare that we need extreme cooling solution. If HevACS was to be used, I would recommend having a system to warm up the air to avoid too much thermal retraction.
I actually want to mount big ol' 120mm Noctua fan and make a duct similar to NH-AAS system to blow wider part of the bed, not just the nozzle. This video showed to me that it might actually not be as big brain fart as I thought
I thought I was having an episode of Deja Vu while I was watching this, and then I saw your comment about it being a redo of a previous video. I guess I'm not going completely crazy after all!! :)) I think it's GREAT to do this kind of experimentation because it can help determine if enhanced cooling will help, and if so, ways to improve that cooling. However, I have a couple suggestions for you that I believe will help make your results more transfer-able for actual improved print quality. (Maybe they've already occurred to you.)
1) I think it would help if you can use your FLIR in such a way that it can be 'calibrated' from one test to the next. I've also had trouble using my camera with different ambient conditions where the temperatures don't equate from one image to another. I think the automatic gain control (AGC) takes whatever temperature range present in the ENTIRE image, and re-maps it to the colors it can display. This works great so that we can look at our house in winter to find heat leaks, and then use the same camera for printer tests, but that feature kinda works against you now.
a) Can you turn off the AGC feature?
b) Could mask off areas in the field of view that are at room temperature to prevent them from adding cool temps to the AGC range? Maybe cardboard painted black or white, or some other opaque and non-heat-conductive material would work?
c) Maybe you could also have one item in the field of view that's always the same temperature for calibration. For instance, maybe you could always have the nozzle in the image since the nozzle temperature is well controlled on 3D printers and is thus both stable and the hottest item in the field of view. If it were always the same color, and everything else were compared to that, I think more meaningful info could be seen from one cooling setup to another.
2) Long print passes are great for understanding and comparing the 'theoretical' cooling capabilities of your various setups, but for me they don't apply very well to the real world cooling problems that I have had. They do equate well to 'vase mode' prints, but I don't think I've ever had a cooling problem with vase mode, even when they have overhangs. It's more intricate pieces, with a many small loops, so that the print head comes back to add the next layer to a feature before it has had a chance to cool adequately. For instance items designed using Voronoi Style (with overhangs) are what I've had the most trouble with, and are great examples that would be better tests. Of course, as you mentioned, a Benchy will also be good, as would other printer 'test pieces' that I've seen on the Internet.
Bottom line: I think what you're doing is really cool (terribly bad pun intended) and warrants the work you're doing. I think with some tweaking of your experimental methods, you can learn even more. In fact, I haven't looked around, but I'll bet there are other geeky guys (like you and I) who've done UA-cam videos on this.
Continued good luck! I'm really interested in seeing what you discover.
First of all, thank you for your comment and constructive feedback. It is really appreciated.
As for the FLIR calibration, I am pretty sure I had the auto calibration off. But in any case the Nozzle and bed are at constant temperature between all tests.
And you just gave me an idea of cooling demonstration using vase mode and HevACS. In can outrun the normal cooling pretty quick using vase mode only on my printer. A simple 40mm diameter cylinder printed at 0.2mm layer can suffer from insufficient cooling when going fast enough with this printer.
My struggle right now is trying to move around a heavy heater block fast enough at high jerk/accel without loosing steps. Two things can happen, lighter heater block with same efficiency or stronger motors. I am trying to resolve both situation.
Heater block: Nova Hot end is in the mail.
Motors: I am currently testing Servo Motors: ua-cam.com/video/m6DoKoESPdg/v-deo.html&t
@@MirageC Thanks for the reply, and I'm glad you thought I was being constructive. I am definitely not an expert on FLIR cameras. I have one, but I haven't used it enough to check out all its features.
My thinking was to minimize, and standardize, the difference between the hottest and coldest item in the field of view (FOV). If the AGC works as I think, it applies its color map to the ENTIRE range of temperatures in the FOV. So the smaller the overall difference allows for the greatest resolution. And if temperature of the nozzle ALWAYS defines the upper limit, and for instance, the bed temperature always defines the lower limit, then you have repeatability for all images. So if you can eliminate colder areas (e.g. room temperature items in the background) from the FOV, it might help. Anyway this is my 'theory', though like I said, it might be errant.
I saw your video on the high speed servo motors. I'm not surprised you can lay down filament too quickly when printing a 40mm cylinder. I was talking about using vase mode to create an actual vase because my wife's bouquets have always been larger than that. :))
I'm glad to hear that my input gave you a new idea. In my experience great ideas are always built by assimilating and improving upon the ideas of many others. Again, I'll be looking for your results. I'm sure they will be fascinating.
would it just make the part come off the bed because it's cooled down? talking about hevacs
Do you have the stl's for that last fan option? I would love to try this on my coreXY printer. Using the cooler air and bring it up to the top while adding zero weight to the printer head is pure genius! Awesome video
Trying to dial in my cooling system and engineering a new hotend system for printing PC with my Hemera. Should I be drawing in cool air for the part cooling from outside the enclosure or use the warm enclosure air? I am worried about cooling the filament too much if the hotend has a high residency in one area, my thinking is that the cooling air should not be lower than the chamber temperature unless you need extreme cooling.
Extreme cooling is mainly used when printing small components extremely fast. In all cases you should aim at getting the previous layer below glass transition point before the next layer comes. Side ducts will help in sinking heat into the part rather than freezing the material at nozzle output (which could lead to adhesion problems). If your material is prone to warp, Chamber hot air at higher fan speed is preferred to "cool" the part. Cooling with hot air... Sounds weird, but you get the point ;)
You should use a rectangular flexible air duct for the Hevacs to connect the lower duct part with the output vent so that the output vent moves with the z axis abd provides consistent air flow for the model
You don't want the output vent to move with the bed, you want it to remain pointing at the level at which the printing is performed, which is at a fixed height in this printer.
@@Graham_Wideman you are right
Could you test a regular box house fan next?
what would happen to ABS since its very draft sensitiv?
Just a Warpy mess? No results at all. Or actually working well.
how much part cooling do you need
MirageC: "Yes"
Dude keep up the great work! I can't believe you only have 9k subs. I would be shocked if you were not well past 50k subscribers in 6 months if you upload like once a week xd
a question about the efficiency of the hevacs, does it not reduce the layer adhesion ?
What monster of a bed heater do you have that's not throwing thermal runaway errors at low layers?
Keenovo 300x300 120VAC 750w pad.
total power consumption would be interesting as well?
Ages ago i used something similar with a ~15W 80mm fan, but it was not directed it was also cooling the bed a bit, and only from one side which made for ... some curious cooling characteristics :)
Does the air turbulence from HevACS cause the filament to blow over on overhangs with small diameter nozzles?
The third idea (HevACS), with the fixed two ducts either side of the bed, is exactly how some of the early HP-branded Stratasys printers worked! However, they may have used centrifugal blowers rather than axial fans.
Think they could also heat instead off cool if i remember correctly? might help with ABS prints!
@@jblaterfire you may be right. I can’t recall if the heater was elsewhere or whether there was one with each blower. Either way it worked beautifully for ABS yes.
we need someone to build a slicer for the hevort that tilts the bed when delt with extreme overhangs
I don't think that would change much as far as overhangs go.
@@timmturner if the printer can do 60 degree just fine with out a tilt. then if the bed can tilt 30 degrees then it can handle the remaining 30 degree to 90
Definately! I am convinced that Fusion360 might be capable of doing so. I need to spend some time over the winter on that.
In theory we could go past 90 degrees.
@@MirageC so using the new slicer feature with fusion or a type of cam modification?
Is this a repost?
I think so.
Yes, I could not replace the other version with bad Audio, needed to repost. Sorry about that.
Awesome! Seems like you could have just gone with one side of that cooling duct. I personally love the performance of the Berd Air pump.
Can't wait to see the next video! Will there be a video on using servo motors in HevORT in the future?
That is the intention!
Stratasys already does this (albeit to heat the chamber)
Yes! Sometimes the best solution can not be used because of patents. They also draw the cooling air from outside the heated enclosure using a blower and pipe it to the nozzle through some tubes.
@@boilerbots i believe the patent is expiring 10 days from now
Which material do you cool? Love your videos, thx for detail explaining 😀
A bit late, have you considered using a high cfm fan and then using ducting/piping to connect it to the hotend ducts? I've got a prusa mini where print head weight is limiting the cooling capacity.
I am using a shop compressor with Berd-Air.
@@MirageC I was thinking more along using high power fans (like server fans) running through ducting attached to the hotend. Essentially a Bowden setup for fan cooling. That way you get concentrated air around the hotend but high volume.
@@theweirdoiscool Yes, exactely something I would like to try.
7:00 you say the part had time to cool? So all tests were done with the same part?
IF that's the case, wouldn't that invalidate your tests due to heat soak or lack there-of? The proper way would be to print individual parts for each setting and record results at a set layer height.
Great work. Thanks for sharing. 👍🥳
Don't you get thermal runaway blowing that much air on the bed/nozzle with the hevacs?
I PID tuned each type of filament while having the fans at the desired value. These PID values are called up when I load the corresponding filament.
So the board know how much PWM is "normal" under each condition.
Maybe you could try Bird-air with higher volumetric flow?
That could work, but it will be affecting negatively the print quality as the molten material is being pushed down or sideways by the air pressure. Bridging can be difficult with too much Berd-Air.
Would it be possible to use the HevACS and not even have a part cooling fan on the tool head?
It is really depending on the shape of the part printed and the material used.
A small pla parts will need a lot of focused cooling while a large abs part will need a light breeze on the freshly deposited layer.
HevACS is meant to add cooling on materials requiring a lot of cooling during fast printing where the head does not stay in the same spot long enough to cool properly.
@@MirageC Very cool. Thank you for your response!
Have you had warping issues due to this cooling system?
Also wondering this
Can such pump pump 24+ h non stop?
Amazing. Question: If you ran a long straight line between the top of two poles, will the HevACS bend the straight line?
Brain fart haha 😂 every time I have an incredible idea I will say I had a brain fart
Smelly ones are the best source of inspiration! :)
I would love that HevACS on my V-King 400X400X400, adequate cooling to really take advantage of the faster print speed capability of my printer is my next project
Do you need to make any compensations to temperature for all that air blowing over the non target part of the hotend? Great idea by the way. Very smart and solid logic. Guess would only be viable for printers with beds which drop.
I run PID tune for the bed and the nozzle when the HevACS is on.
Hi! What the results HevACS gives while printing ABS?
Is there a STL avail?
This is awesome! But I'm so disappointed that there's no real life overhang tests
i like to make the HevACS Fans for my ender 6 xD you have eny tutorial for that fan?
Which fan is best? Can the 300cfm print abs?
Would be able to try a diffused shop air line (100psi) for part cooling? I was thinking about trying this myself but you already have the setup going for you.
It could work, but you have to be carefully not to create a hard shell around that molten material. There is a certain point after which too much cooling over a too small period of time will no longer work.
Thank you! I have been obsessing about what fan duct to use to optimize my cooling, but now I am realizing that no fan duct can ever compare to blasting the bed with air, because the fan duct just focuses on one tiny part when the whole layer needs cooling. What do you think about just mounting an oscillating floor fan and pointing it at the bed?
I wonder how much this method would be affected by using warm air from a heated enclosure? If the air is 50C will it still cool very fast?
It becomes a fan oven, essentially lol!
I have yet to try it for ABS, but soon will. I'll report back :)
@@MirageC What do you find is the best material for easy fast printing?
@@Audio_Simon I have heard ABS is good but only did PLA and PETG on fast runs so far. I found a hi speed PLA from Gonzales that looks promising.
Since i can't test it currently i may as well toss this out since you might be able to. What about using a small peltier module to blast actively cool air to a part.
I have tried other methods to cool drastically the part and I found that a thin hard shell of plastic forms at the surface of the molten plastic, creating awful print quality and poor layer adhesion.
Just print with ABS, cooling essential, but you could experiment with it when printing at high speeds..
Doesn't this trigger the thermal runaway on the heater ? Even if the silicone sock is put still it would at times cause a thermal runaway error and stop the print...How do you get about that issue?
I created a filament profile that loads a different PID tune set of parameters. This will avoid to have thermal runaway condition when using such system.
Cool :o i how theres a hevacs on bedslinger :3
Ever experimented with chilled air?
I am experimenting with 60 psi compressed air nowadays. Due to the pressure change at release it becomes quite cold. I did not measure it yet though. you can see it in action here: ua-cam.com/video/h-ukClHtai4/v-deo.html
I believe someone from railcore said they had issues with too much fanspeed. I couldnt press for more details.
What would happen if there was too much cooling? Layer adhesion may be affected? Anything else?
I am super interested to try an active fan now! My printer has a moving Y axis bed so my cooling wont be as uniform as yours.
The main advantage of the HevACS (or side cooling) is that it is focusing the cooling to the part NOT the material being laid down. So the material being extruded keeps its heat and will slowly be cooled after touching the part. The cooling will be gradual over a longer period of time. Ensuring better layer adhesion and better stiffness for next layer to be deposit.
What pump did u use with 660l/hour. Most of the air pumps i could find on ebay were either in the 60 - 200l range, or the 5000 - 10000l / hour range
This is the one I am using (24V, brushless, parralel) : www.aliexpress.com/item/4000601429521.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.7b5967b5QrIbK8&algo_pvid=f9d7e42c-66d7-43b6-9c63-736c077121c3&algo_expid=f9d7e42c-66d7-43b6-9c63-736c077121c3-27&btsid=0b0a556716129933990647398e4dd5&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_
Very interesting!
Hello, im sorry im so newbie in 3d printing but... Why you Will need a heatbed if you cooling the print with such fans?? Where Is the trick?
Heat Bed will ensure the part sticks to the build plate. If the bed cools too much the part will be flying off.
@@MirageC ohh i see, one More question.... Have seen your Z motion build, Is it possible with Arduino+ramps+ extra board for drivers?
@@eugeyatsu1100 You would be better into looking at Klipper Firmware installed on a raspberry pi. You can then connect any driver board via USB. triple z is a native function of Klipper.
@@MirageC okay, never used rspberry yet but ITS never to late! Thanks for answering!
So... COOL!
now whats the quality vs strength trade off between each?
Quality definately benefits from the HevACS , especially for PLA. Overhangs on smaller part are much easier to achieve. Layer adhesion does not seem to suffer from it. But that needs to be measured properly.
@@MirageCyessir, it could be especially beneficial in a heated chamber so the effects are minimized in terms of strength.
By the way the south pole is not Antartica it's the Arctic. So it should be "Arc
tic cooling system" The Artic is much colder then the Antartic. 10 times colder in Summer and Twice as colder in winter.
;)
i.pinimg.com/originals/78/07/eb/7807ebef2eb2d83399f9a7fa4d231757.png
I realise this is a reupload but it convinced me to sub. The implications for weight saving and ease of reconfiguring hotend/nozzle etc on the print carriage are significant, if you can shift the cooling to the frame. I would like to see if it causes bed temperature issues, if you are able to test some more.
Yes, I am deeply sorry about the repost, but audio from previous version was WAY too low. I needed to fix that but could not find another way of doing it without creating a new video,
As for the impact on the bed, I am using a 750W 120VAC Keenovo Heat Pad. When properly PID tuned with HevACS on, it can keep up a stable temp just fine and the impact on controller board voltage is null.
The question is, is the difference between bed surface temp and thermistor increasing when using the HevACS? That would need to be investigated.
But at this point, using HevACS would be for material with very low warping coefficient like PLA. Where bed temp needs to be maintained high enough so the part remains anchored to the build plate.
Accuracy of that temp might be affected by the HevACS for the first few layers only. As the build plate is moving down, the impact will decrease to null.
@@MirageC absolutely no need to apologise . I would have missed this if you hadn't! Thanks for the additional thoughts. I wonder if it would be possible to make the jets as laminar as possible to minimise surface cooling of the bed at the beginning. I think it would also be fine to put insulating mat strips over parts of the bed not required for levelling or the print. May save a few Watts and stop the chamber heating up too much if that's undesirable. Of course, plenty of prints don't need too much cooling so even a little movement could be just fine.
Hi If we donate to your through paypal can we get the STL for the HevACS system?