Best part of getting a category straddling bike (Ripmo, Spur, Switchblade, Tallboy etc) is that you can move it firmly from trail to XC or trail to enduro with different suspension or tires.
Am I the only weirdo going light on my build? As a gravel/XC rider who enjoys pedaling and finds no fun in jumps and rough trails, I'm lightening up my Orbea Occam in the fork, wheels, and tires to turn it into a long legged downcountry bike with a bit of reserve travel in case i get in over my head
Most riders follow manufacturer size chart to choose their ride which mean too big. Agility starts with the correct size frame, secondly with burly or light components (Most people dont know how to adjust their cockpit: seat angle, stem lenght, and steerer tube spacers), and the thirdly are suspenisions adjustments. Majority dont even know the difference between rebound and compression.
Let’s get a Super Burly on test…that’s how I got mine Cascade Link 150 rear, 160mm fork (Mezzer/38/Zeb), 223/203 rotors, EXO+/DD tires with Tannus f/r. Destroyed the light weight components that came on my build. Not sure how you rode the light tires without folding them. Had to run over 30psi for them not to fold, then they just bounced off everything. Super fun platform to mess around with.
Great video. I did this several months ago to my Trek Fuel ex 8 gen 5 version. I changed Fox 34 140mm for Fox 36 150mm, also changed rear Fox DPS for Float X. Put 4 piston upfront, xtr discs and 40mm rise Spank vibrocore 800mm bars. It is heavier build but I like it more, how it goes, feal and how it looks now. It is like you said more AM bike than trail bike but I feal more secure on it. Basically I put components on my bike which I believe that bike deserves more. After I finished my build, maybe 2 months afterwards Trek shows new generation (6) of fuel ex with very similar components but updated geo...
It’s a little funny how most of us do that when we first get a bike. I wonder why manufacturers don’t just spec them that way? Maybe folks are too concerned about weight when purchasing a bike so the manufacturers are trying to hit weight targets? Not sure.
Awesome video's have just come across your channel, and enjoying the content. Were the forks the E-bike forks? I only ask this as they are built way different to normal fork. Example is my Fox 36's use thicker stanchions, you realize this when you need to buy volume spacers for Fox 34's to be used with Fox 36's E-bike fork.
Great video! I think maybe do the same thing, but individually test the effect of the components. Like you said you were thinking that the tires had the greatest effect. It would be great to see what difference it would be to just change the tires vs the suspension etc as well. This way you can also feel exactly the difference of the rear shock!
Good comparison. Burly all the way for me! First time you puncture a lighter tire or dent a wheel, you’ll regret not putting on stronger tires and inserts, especially on an ebike.
Connor great Video and I agree on your insights. When I put carbon hoops on my Element last year the bike felt more "snappy" than with the heavier rims. This year, I put a bit heavier tires on and that light 50g vittoria airliner in the rear. The bike feels muted as far as that snappy feeling. Question- do you feel that dropping 150grams in weight on an enduro wheelset will feel all that much better? This is for my Rallon that I use and ride as a trail bike most of the time.
I had this dilemma building my tallboy. Didn’t want to ruin the character of the bike by putting overly heavy components on. I tried faster rolling tyres but they were holding be back. Ended up with DHR front and rear.
@@DB-sd3cw they save money on consumable parts and spend the budget on suspension and frame usually. I’ve gone through 3 mechs, 6 or 7 chains, 2 cassettes and a set of cranks in 2 years. Just replace it with nicer parts when it wears out.
Great video, even at the expense of range, with the 540wh battery you can do a full enduro 6 stage race on this (and my friend placed top 3 against full power bikes). In that case I’d even go DD casing at least in the rear and try out that cascade link with a 160mm fork. The light build would suit an all day xc ride which is cool
Love the format, but going from 43 pounds to 39 pounds....its still heavy. BUT, on an eBike, Burly all the way. And frankly, any bike, burly all the way. Trailside snafu's suck. I recently had to walk home due to a shattered AXS XX1 derailleur cage. I swapped back to a GX cable derailleur, and it may just stay that way. Cheaper the fix, and a bit burlier.
Again amazing video with coolest moderator on UA-cam. Completely fits my understanding of what makes sense : I usually just need a trail bike but went for the combo of quick enduro (Rallon R6 22) with the stock not so burly tyres. If I go hard during holidays I just need to swap for something heavier. When I will have more time for riding I might go for 2nd wheelset. One 25-30mm light set with fast tyres and one with heavy tyres on mullet
Yeah. MyO stuff is going to be full price seeing as it’s not in stock product at a shop. Barring any sales at a shop it’s not any more expensive than MSRP.
Hi, really like your video, attention to details and options to consider. Quick question, for the ranges you quoted, did your Rise have the 360Wh battery or the optional 540Wh (at least here in Europe you have the choice). Txs for the confirmation. And keep the amazing content going. 👍
Another Great video. Even the burly build at 42 lbs is pretty light for an E-Bike. My Santa Cruz Bullit is 51 lbs with pedals (Maxxis DD Tires and Cushcore Xc for both Fr and Rr). If you notice a big difference between a 39 lb build and 42 lb build, then I am sure you would see a SUPER-HUMONGOUS difference between 39lb and 51lb.
Matters most in wheels and tires. I have a Tallboy 4 with a set of AM and XC wheels/tires. Feerls like a very different bike based on which I run because there is a huge difference in rotational weight. Only complaint is I have to ride the XC set up less aggressively as far as hucks, jumps and drops are concerned.
TB4 is such an incredible bike. I have one and keep thinking about "upgrading" but it's so versatile that it doesn't make sense unless you are racing up or down.
I’m building up a Tallboy 4 at this very moment. Did you put a 140mm fork on yours? That’s what I’m doing and carbon 30mm internal rims. Build weight is coming in at 28.5lbs with Forekasters F&R. What’s your wheel/tire set up for XC vs AM?
@Tomzzzzzz running Project 321 hubs on Spank rimes with 2.4 disector in front and a 2.35 aggressor in rear for AM wheels. Using Raceface next SL carbon wheels with forecaster front and back for XC set. Also running a Marzochi Z1 140 mm fork. Used to have a Fox 34 performance fork. The 36mm stanctions on the Marz fork is noticeably stiffer and rides higher in travel. I blew out the Fox DPS rear shock that came on bike and replaced with 2024 Fox float. Besides the wheels the beefier suspension was biggest improvement.
Very interesting content, thanks for sharing and all the work involved. I'm just about to take delivery of a Rise M20 and considering an Assegi 2.5 on the front and moving the stock Disector 2.4 to the rear. Leaving all the other components as delivered, that seems 'lightweight plus' or maybe 'burly light' ?
@@bikersedge thanks, you read my mind on the insert 😊 In the uk Rockstop make a well received insert (not Cushcore but good for pinch flat protection and much easier to install!)
Hey there, I'm truly impressed by the quality of your videos. They're not only informative but also a pleasure to watch. I even purchased an Orbea Occam H20 LT after watching your thorough review in an older video, and it's been a fantastic choice. One thing that really stands out in your videos is the audio quality-it's remarkably clear and satisfying. Could you share which microphone you use? I'm curious to know what helps in achieving such great sound quality. Keep up the great work!
@@bikersedge I have to humbly disagree with you bro. To make it as simple as possible, There’s Real Bikes and then there’s bikes with motors attached to them. They are not the same.
They’re both pretty real. They’re both pretty great. Different strokes for different folks. Or different strokes for the same folks in my case. I ride them both frequently.
Best part of getting a category straddling bike (Ripmo, Spur, Switchblade, Tallboy etc) is that you can move it firmly from trail to XC or trail to enduro with different suspension or tires.
Yup. Tires might be the biggest factor for bikes like that.
I'm tall and heavy so I'll go burly build every single time.
Coil, 38's inserts front and rear.
I agree with you on this...
I usually do the same for big bikes except I much prefer air suspension. On a trail bike though sometimes it’s nice to keep it quick and lively.
Am I the only weirdo going light on my build? As a gravel/XC rider who enjoys pedaling and finds no fun in jumps and rough trails, I'm lightening up my Orbea Occam in the fork, wheels, and tires to turn it into a long legged downcountry bike with a bit of reserve travel in case i get in over my head
Different strokes for different folks. For how you described your riding style sounds like you’ve made the right move.
Most riders follow manufacturer size chart to choose their ride which mean too big. Agility starts with the correct size frame, secondly with burly or light components (Most people dont know how to adjust their cockpit: seat angle, stem lenght, and steerer tube spacers), and the thirdly are suspenisions adjustments. Majority dont even know the difference between rebound and compression.
Your videos are really helpful. Not to mention the edits are great as well.😁
Hey thanks! Glad you like them.
Let’s get a Super Burly on test…that’s how I got mine
Cascade Link 150 rear, 160mm fork (Mezzer/38/Zeb), 223/203 rotors, EXO+/DD tires with Tannus f/r.
Destroyed the light weight components that came on my build. Not sure how you rode the light tires without folding them. Had to run over 30psi for them not to fold, then they just bounced off everything.
Super fun platform to mess around with.
@@xav_1029 oh yeah. I had 30+ in them for sure!
Great video. I did this several months ago to my Trek Fuel ex 8 gen 5 version. I changed Fox 34 140mm for Fox 36 150mm, also changed rear Fox DPS for Float X.
Put 4 piston upfront, xtr discs and 40mm rise Spank vibrocore 800mm bars.
It is heavier build but I like it more, how it goes, feal and how it looks now. It is like you said more AM bike than trail bike but I feal more secure on it. Basically I put components on my bike which I believe that bike deserves more.
After I finished my build, maybe 2 months afterwards Trek shows new generation (6) of fuel ex with very similar components but updated geo...
It’s a little funny how most of us do that when we first get a bike. I wonder why manufacturers don’t just spec them that way? Maybe folks are too concerned about weight when purchasing a bike so the manufacturers are trying to hit weight targets? Not sure.
@@DB-sd3cw come on out to Utah. We can race!
Yeah. Everyone out here sucks at bikes….
Awesome video's have just come across your channel, and enjoying the content.
Were the forks the E-bike forks? I only ask this as they are built way different to normal fork. Example is my Fox 36's use thicker stanchions, you realize this when you need to buy volume spacers for Fox 34's to be used with Fox 36's E-bike fork.
The rise uses standard MTB components rather than E specific. With the lower output motor and lighter weight you can get away with that.
Great video! I think maybe do the same thing, but individually test the effect of the components. Like you said you were thinking that the tires had the greatest effect. It would be great to see what difference it would be to just change the tires vs the suspension etc as well. This way you can also feel exactly the difference of the rear shock!
That’s a great idea.
Good comparison. Burly all the way for me! First time you puncture a lighter tire or dent a wheel, you’ll regret not putting on stronger tires and inserts, especially on an ebike.
Exactly!
Connor great Video and I agree on your insights. When I put carbon hoops on my Element last year the bike felt more "snappy" than with the heavier rims. This year, I put a bit heavier tires on and that light 50g vittoria airliner in the rear. The bike feels muted as far as that snappy feeling. Question- do you feel that dropping 150grams in weight on an enduro wheelset will feel all that much better? This is for my Rallon that I use and ride as a trail bike most of the time.
150g isn’t all that much. It’s rotational so it would make a bigger difference than say a non moving part. I doubt it’s very noticeable.
As a rider of a big burly version, i agree! much prefer it that way, and love it!
Nice!
I have a burly bike, but I like the efficiency of a fast-rolling bike. I'm running a MAX TERRA DHR2 and Dissector
Nice!
I had this dilemma building my tallboy. Didn’t want to ruin the character of the bike by putting overly heavy components on. I tried faster rolling tyres but they were holding be back. Ended up with DHR front and rear.
Minions on a tallboy are money.
@@DB-sd3cw I think my R spec Bronson is worth it. I love my bike
I like new Forekaster rear / dhr2 front on the TB. Feels a little too draggy with a minion rear imo
@@DB-sd3cw I have a megatower as well. I think they’re worth the money. I’d recommend demoing one, you’ll see what I mean when you ride one.
@@DB-sd3cw they save money on consumable parts and spend the budget on suspension and frame usually. I’ve gone through 3 mechs, 6 or 7 chains, 2 cassettes and a set of cranks in 2 years. Just replace it with nicer parts when it wears out.
Great video, even at the expense of range, with the 540wh battery you can do a full enduro 6 stage race on this (and my friend placed top 3 against full power bikes). In that case I’d even go DD casing at least in the rear and try out that cascade link with a 160mm fork. The light build would suit an all day xc ride which is cool
It's cool that the Rise is versatile enough to do both
Love the format, but going from 43 pounds to 39 pounds....its still heavy. BUT, on an eBike, Burly all the way. And frankly, any bike, burly all the way. Trailside snafu's suck. I recently had to walk home due to a shattered AXS XX1 derailleur cage. I swapped back to a GX cable derailleur, and it may just stay that way. Cheaper the fix, and a bit burlier.
I mean 39 for an ebike is pretty damn good.
Again amazing video with coolest moderator on UA-cam. Completely fits my understanding of what makes sense : I usually just need a trail bike but went for the combo of quick enduro (Rallon R6 22) with the stock not so burly tyres. If I go hard during holidays I just need to swap for something heavier. When I will have more time for riding I might go for 2nd wheelset. One 25-30mm light set with fast tyres and one with heavy tyres on mullet
Nice. Makes a ton of sense to me.
MYO ist technically free of charge, but if you take advantage of it you would not get any discounts, right? That makes it quite a bit more expensive
Yeah. MyO stuff is going to be full price seeing as it’s not in stock product at a shop. Barring any sales at a shop it’s not any more expensive than MSRP.
Burley build👌 I did that to my SL bulls Wildflow evo.
Burley + Mullet
Nice!
When you are wearing red shirt, your range may be shorter but you'll go faster.
#science
I too went for the burly build and I love how planted it feels at speed.
Nice!
I think 160 150 is a good all around bike.
It can be for some folks.
"That's physics, or something" 😜
It’s been a long time since I’ve been in science class. Can’t be too sure.
360 vs 540?
We have the 360 in this one
Hi, really like your video, attention to details and options to consider. Quick question, for the ranges you quoted, did your Rise have the 360Wh battery or the optional 540Wh (at least here in Europe you have the choice). Txs for the confirmation. And keep the amazing content going. 👍
We have the 360 in this one.
Another Great video. Even the burly build at 42 lbs is pretty light for an E-Bike. My Santa Cruz Bullit is 51 lbs with pedals (Maxxis DD Tires and Cushcore Xc for both Fr and Rr). If you notice a big difference between a 39 lb build and 42 lb build, then I am sure you would see a SUPER-HUMONGOUS difference between 39lb and 51lb.
Yeah there’s a huge difference. But they’re an also a big difference in power on your bike too. Bigger output motor for sure.
Interesting to know how much closer rise gets to heckler sl and transition regarding all mountain capability with a more burly build?
Closer for sure but still not playing the same game as those two.
Matters most in wheels and tires. I have a Tallboy 4 with a set of AM and XC wheels/tires. Feerls like a very different bike based on which I run because there is a huge difference in rotational weight. Only complaint is I have to ride the XC set up less aggressively as far as hucks, jumps and drops are concerned.
If you get to the "biggest Impact" chapter, you'll see I completely agree with you.
TB4 is such an incredible bike. I have one and keep thinking about "upgrading" but it's so versatile that it doesn't make sense unless you are racing up or down.
I’m building up a Tallboy 4 at this very moment. Did you put a 140mm fork on yours? That’s what I’m doing and carbon 30mm internal rims. Build weight is coming in at 28.5lbs with Forekasters F&R. What’s your wheel/tire set up for XC vs AM?
@@Tomzzzzzz140 Pike ultimate and TB tuned Super deluxe ultimate. It's perfect this way. For my trails I run Rekon or dissector rear DHR front.
@Tomzzzzzz running Project 321 hubs on Spank rimes with 2.4 disector in front and a 2.35 aggressor in rear for AM wheels. Using Raceface next SL carbon wheels with forecaster front and back for XC set. Also running a Marzochi Z1 140 mm fork. Used to have a Fox 34 performance fork. The 36mm stanctions on the Marz fork is noticeably stiffer and rides higher in travel. I blew out the Fox DPS rear shock that came on bike and replaced with 2024 Fox float. Besides the wheels the beefier suspension was biggest improvement.
Burley build all the way. 150 Lyrik and Super Deluxe on my Rise with exo+ tires
Very interesting content, thanks for sharing and all the work involved. I'm just about to take delivery of a Rise M20 and considering an Assegi 2.5 on the front and moving the stock Disector 2.4 to the rear. Leaving all the other components as delivered, that seems 'lightweight plus' or maybe 'burly light' ?
That could be a good move to get some capability. A rear tire insert might not be a bad idea.
@@bikersedge thanks, you read my mind on the insert 😊 In the uk Rockstop make a well received insert (not Cushcore but good for pinch flat protection and much easier to install!)
Hey there, I'm truly impressed by the quality of your videos. They're not only informative but also a pleasure to watch. I even purchased an Orbea Occam H20 LT after watching your thorough review in an older video, and it's been a fantastic choice. One thing that really stands out in your videos is the audio quality-it's remarkably clear and satisfying. Could you share which microphone you use? I'm curious to know what helps in achieving such great sound quality. Keep up the great work!
Hey thanks! I’m using the Rode wireless mics.
what battery size? The new Rise M can come with either 540 or 360whr. whereas the old carbon models always had 360
We have the 360 in this.
Nah, bro. Da red wuns go fasta!
Everyone knows red is slow AF
Great Video bro. My only complaint is that you should of used a REAL MOUNTAIN BIKE FOR THE VIDEO😤
Yeah. This one is just a figment of your imagination. It doesn't even exist.
@@bikersedge I have to humbly disagree with you bro. To make it as simple as possible, There’s Real Bikes and then there’s bikes with motors attached to them. They are not the same.
They’re both pretty real. They’re both pretty great. Different strokes for different folks. Or different strokes for the same folks in my case. I ride them both frequently.
@@joshuaallswang8016take your ebike hate elsewhere, nobody cares
@@bikersedge ok buddy. Besides that. Keep up the good work