How to Get 220v From 110v
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- Опубліковано 20 сер 2024
- You should watch this video first - • How to Get 220v From 1...
Here is a video using this device - • Practice Welding with ...
How to Get 220v From 110v How to easily get 240V for your welder with just two 120V outlets. I DO NOT RECOMMEND TRYING THIS UNLESS YOU ARE FAMILIAR WITH YOUR SPECIFIC EQUIPMENT! This video is a DEMONSTRATION OF WHAT WORKS FOR MY EQUIPMENT ONLY! I do not recommend you build the exact device like I did in this video. I would recommend you hire a professional for your electrical needs. The wire size should be capable of carrying the amps your breakers are rated at and the breakers should be tied together so they will both trip together. The device I built in this video, regardless of the actual components is only good for a 15 amp device. My particular welder (on the settings I use) draws 15 amps or less and that is why I am able to use the device I built in this video without burning up the leads. I have measured the amp draw of my welder so I know exactly what amps it uses at my settings. Just be aware if you are not sure or just don't know what your device draws, it's possible you may have dangerous results trying to duplicate my version of this device. You could be seriously hurt or killed if you are not sure what you are doing. Enjoy the video but be safe!
In this video I am welding with the device I made to power my 220V inverter stick welder
• Practice Welding with ...
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Honestly I'm a Electrician for 30+ yrs now, and if you have the knowledge to do that, you should REALLY run a separate 240v from your panel, brother I've seen so many mistakes, problems, and fires/ shocking wires/shorts. Please dont do this, a welder, air compressor, anything 220v/240v need it own dedicated circuit/ outlet, not shared in anyway. Please fix it right and be safe , God bless.
Daren from south Florida
The reason to run a dedicated 240v is if one side shorts both breakers will trip shutting down both legs. With this setup you could trip one breaker and cause the voltage to drop to 120v and fry any 240v item you are using, at the least it won't work correctly. Seems like he knows just enough to get in trouble...
This might work in a pinch but not a safe way to do it!
Agree. By the time/material/compromised safety is figured in , you could buy the romex, box, breaker and outlet . Especially a welder is going heat up those stranded wires and rubber coating.
Agree 100%. This will work, but its not worth the risk. Do it to code. Be safe
V8SKULLS amen! This is a horrible idea. The breakers also will not work right.
Exactly. He's deinventing the wheel.
As an electrician I do not condone the use of a gadget like this. It would be best to either set a sub panel and branch out your 120vac and 220vac circuits or just run a separate 220vac circuit for the welder.
Glad it works for you, but I've seen to many fires started by gadgets like this to justify its use.
Agreed
Serious question.. How does a fire start? The device is pulling too much currant than what the wires can handle? And why doesn't it trip the breaker?
But what would I know I have made a welder out of microwave ovens and am currently working on one using several 36vdc 245watt solar panels as the power source so take it for what it is.
That's an ugly hack. Why run 2 120 V circuits when you can just run one 240 V circuit?
"I've seen" "too many" translates to someone told me about this guy one time.
I remember plugging in a spotlight at a construction site. Unknown to me, the 120v outlet was designated for the 240v saw. A 120v outlet, with 240v unmarked. It went boom, bulb shattered. And remember to test your 2nd plug with your tongue, because you don't know who could come along and pull a plug out.
I have a factory made UL listed chord that does this very thing you plug into 2 separate 110v and it comes together on the chord to give 220v we use it on a hardwood floor sander when there’s no 220v avbl on jobs . Lots of people say they never seen anything like this but we’ve ran for years and hav had no issues
Where did you get it?
Where did you get this? What is it called?
And what is the amperage the sander is pulling?
Probably nothing near what the welder will pull.
I'd love to see a UL listing for a cheater plug.
Amazon step up/down voltage Regulatory
I'm surprised there are so many comments that don't seem to understand it's an improvise to get 220 volts without running tens of feet of heavy gauge wire from a panel and meant for light-duty or temporary work by the person who made the junction box. It's easily unplugged and put in a drawer till needed.
SL: Exactly. People get hung up on running 220 from the box. Thats not what this vid is about, its about using what you have to get you by.
As some people pointed out, for SOME reason, there was a short or if he loads the circuit with higher than 20amps, there is IMHO VERY good chance that only 1 breaker will trip causing 110v to be supplied to whatever appliance he is using causing POSSIBLE brown out load to the appliance causing it to fail. If it is cheap appliance, then I guess not much harm done but I would not use this setup without another 20amp 220v inline breaker which is set to trip first so that both lines are cut off at same time. Also, he is using very short line which makes "portability" not as good, if so, why not just install dedicated line.
The majority of the comments I read for this video are correct. However, I felt like a little more clarification could be helpful. In the United States a residential electrical service typically consists of two 120 volt hot lines and one neutral line. Going from either one of the hot lines to the neutral gives you 120 volts. If you measure across the two 120 volt lines and don't use the neutral you will find 240 volts. In the breaker box you will find three bus bars behind the circuit breakers. Two of them are 120 volt, and the third one is a neutral sometimes referred to as the ground. The bus bars are arranged so that two adjacent circuit breakers will pick up both sides of the service in the box. This is why a 240-volt breaker is twice as wide as a 120-volt breaker. It has to grab both of the hots in order to work. Those double-wide circuit breakers are also designed so that if something trips it will shut off both of the hots at the same time. The arrangement shown in this video has the potential to damage your welding equipment simply because if one of those circuit breakers should happen to trip you'd still be sending power through the other line. This could cause damage to circuit boards or potentially give you a nasty shock because the power isn't really off. As a professional welder and an electrician I don't recommend this setup. It will work but there are far safer (and cheaper) ways to do this.
A
Breakers are not there to protect the device in the first place. Breakers are strictly to protect the wiring from causing a fire resulting from a short to ground. If your an electrician then you should know this. From what he already said in the video, he is aware of the device still possibly being hot in the case of one circuit tripping or otherwise not working and is perfectly willing to accept the risk.
Would being plugged in to a gfi outlet add a little bit of safety? I have heard of people using a similar box as what he made but it was only one time
IAM not a electrical expert but I noticed the box should be grounded to the panel .the box is not grounded sitting on your bench
The technical thing with your two power legs, L1 and L2 is that one is 180° out of phase of the other. When combined you get 240 volts. It doubles because 180° is half of the full 360° AC cycle.
Its how it comes off the AC alternator from the utility company. Three phase power, each leg is 120° out of phase from each other. Three phase has some strange phenomenon to it and can be extremely dangerous for someone not familiar with how it works.
Anyway just FYI as to what the difference is in those two legs its the phase or the timing of the two cycles.
The problem with combining 2 separate 120 volts outlets to create a single 240 volt outlets is that it violates the safety feature of using a 2 pole breaker in that if one breaker trips, the other one stays hot meaning that there is still a safety hazard present in your device. Whereas, with a 2 pole breaker, if one side trips it automatically drives the other side to the off position thereby eliminating all potential electrical safety ⚠️ hazards.
If one trips, the other almost SURELY will trip as well.
I don't understand how this can be any better than installing a 240 volt outlet in the first place. There is a safety concern too with the two breakers involved.
its not installed, its a temporary device. it doesnt actually violate code. code doesnt cover temporary appliances. only permanent ones.
@@DieselRamcharger Agree... it's only used temporarily for one thing or another; maybe an industrial floor sander that requires 240v
@@starmc26 Do you know how many people have died from "almost surely" situations?
Add a proper rated breaker, run rated wiring, and add the outlet. Do it right. You need a small breaker box and breaker, with your setup anyway, or risk death, or worse.
For my own home I would just run another 220 line from my panel. Plenty of room in there yet. In fact, there is a 220 line for an electric dryer in the laundry room that has never been used, we have always had natural gas dryer that plugs into 110 for the drum and ignition. But I like the idea. Thanks for the informative video.
If you installed two 120VAC outlets on seperate phases, why not just install one 220 VAC outlet ?
Why not just put one 50 amp breaker in the Box instead of jerry-rigging two that only goes to 20 amps Max? I installed a heavy duty cord from my basement out to my garage and a 50 amp breaker so I could use my welder, it works great and it's a safe way of doing it and it wasn't terribly expensive, I could do the work myself.
@@airgliderz no offense but I've always learned best by mistakes despite all my schooling courses and certs I just learn best by fn up lol
@@airgliderz I really don't see why this doesn't work or isn't safe ? I'll have to watch the link to his other video for why its bad... greetings from fixitchris123go from paducah ky
Was just thinking that
EXACTLY!!!
Main concern is you're relying on two separate breakers for one device. One breaker trips you still have power on the other circuit feeding that outlet. Easier and safer to run another circuit to a double pole breaker assuming there's space in the panel for a double pole breaker. Your welder should have a rating lable on it.
Easier, safer, and cheaper. +If the house burns down with the current setup, good luck on collecting the insurance.
If one breaker pops the load will pop the second very quickly
In my case it is not easier. My box is a floor down and on the other side of the house. I think that’s the type of thing this helps with. I do agree it is still questionable though from a safety aspect.
If one breaker pops, the circuit in the heavy outlet is gone. No completed circuit means no power.
@@rickhuis3773 no it will not. One breaker tripping breaks the circuit so no more current will flow (assuming a 240 V load) and the other breaker will not trip, but the other breaker staying on keeps one line live... which is a safety hazard.
I have many versions of these running a DJ service since my amplifiers draw up to 20 amps at 240 volts. Good idea in a pinch for temporary situations. I also use a combi 2 15 amp parallel combiner to 30 amp 120 volt twist lock for some of my older amplifiers - but be careful, you can backfeed with the parallel splitter. Be aware and familiar with site wiring or test site wiring to prevent someone from plugging in 2 1500 watt coffee makers to one of the backfed circuits. I've made automatic protected versions so if one of the cords disconnects either of the disconnected cord male ends aren't live if something is turned on.
Great for temporary setups…
No it isnt
Good info, didn't realize the bus bars were setup this way, thought the left was one phase and the right was the other. This makes much more sense.
@@drewreed4639there is no such thing as phases in a breaker panel, residential home wiring is split single phase at the pole
The outlets have to be on different bus bars, not just different circuits.
1:53 into the video he pointed out the two receptacles were on separate lines and he demonstrated that putting the meter on the two lines would give 240V
Thanks 😊
Exactly!!
@@rydfree Just separate lines is not enough. One line must be from a breaker on the left side of panel and one plug must be supplied from breaker on the right side of the panel. Only get 240V if this is the case.
thats what i was realizing and it was not mentioned specifically. Although his individual testing would have signaled the problem.
Cool idea. I can see this being handy when your buddy needs work done at his place and there’s no 220v outlet. As a homesteading video, I was hoping he was going to show how to get 220V from a couple inverters with this gadget. For a welder in your own garage, just run a proper 220V circuit. This is about as safe as a backfeed cord; it works, as long as you know what you are doing, and the wife or kids don’t try to figure it out while you are away. Scary how things change when you go from living alone to raising a family!
And potential deadly! In an approved design, you have both breakers locked together so if 1 side trips the other does as well. This easily could result in bodily injury up to and including death. Equipment damage is pretty much a given.
Not to mention most near to one another outlets are on the same breaker. So you fail at the beginning. And greater issue few things 220v are rated at 20 amps.
So many things wrong with doing this.
Greasy and Coy, I agree with you guys completely. Many people on here keep focusing on the fact that one pole might trip and the other doesn't. But not many are touching on the fact that he has two outlets next to each other on different phases of his house power. Having separate circuits in one room is normal, so that his heater doesn't trip the breaker when the compressor comes on. But if they're in the same room they should be on the same phase of power in his house!!!! There's a reason we don't put outlets of different phases near each other or in the same room. Sure it works to help him run a welder, but that's unsafe it's not a dedicated line for the welder. The rest of the time when he's not welding, he has two separate outlets that he can plug into, near each other, that combined create 240v @ 40 amp. Many times I have had tools that get an internal short circuit. This is too easy for someone to have a lamp plugged into one and a drill plugged into the other and reach for both at the same time it's a recipe for disaster. He might know that these are on separate phases, but everyone else doesn't, and he has this now in his workshop and out in the carport. JMHO be safe!
I don't see how this helps your buddy out unless he had the forethought to pre wire his garage for two separate runs a foot and a half away from each other, and if he did that than why did he not run a 240 there, ha ha, otherwise you gotta pull power from two outlets all the way across from each other in the garage if and I mean if (highly unlikely) that dime a dozen two car garage has two circuits in it, probably not
This seems both ignorantly redundant but yet equally informative and useful. I’ve know this was possible and I, personally, would just install a 240volt circuit. BUT, say you take your welder to a friends house to help them repair something and they don’t have 240volt power at all..... This will get you out of a pinch quite easily.
I've got an adapter at work that I built specifically to *test* 240 V devices with only 120 V outlets. Easy to build, but as noted in another comment, not suitable for something that will run continuously or unattended. Yes, "safer" to run a proper 240 line from a 240 V dual breaker in the box -- but for my (and my shop's) needs, it was the only option. It hasn't been used much -- twice, I think, in more than ten years -- but like I say about various other stuff I've made there: "When you need it, nothing else will work."
You should watch this video first - ua-cam.com/video/29UOFnXItQU/v-deo.html
Here is a video using this device - ua-cam.com/video/Sle56LvpsEM/v-deo.html
How to Wire a Double Duplex Outlet - DIY (OFFICIAL VIDEO) - ua-cam.com/video/Oe4uqSYbU0Q/v-deo.html
How to Get 220v From 110v How to easily get 240V for your welder with just two 120V outlets. I DO NOT RECOMMEND TRYING THIS UNLESS YOU ARE FAMILIAR WITH YOUR SPECIFIC EQUIPMENT! This video is a DEMONSTRATION OF WHAT WORKS FOR MY EQUIPMENT ONLY! I do not recommend you build the exact device like I did in this video. I would recommend you hire a professional for your electrical needs. The wire size should be capable of carrying the amps your breakers are rated at and the breakers should be tied together so they will both trip together. The device I built in this video, regardless of the actual components is only good for a 15 amp device. My particular welder (on the settings I use) draws 15 amps or less and that is why I am able to use the device I built in this video without burning up the leads. I have measured the amp draw of my welder so I know exactly what amps it uses at my settings. Just be aware if you are not sure or just don't know what your device draws, it's possible you may have dangerous results trying to duplicate my version of this device. You could be seriously hurt or killed if you are not sure what you are doing. Enjoy the video but be safe!
Hi thanks for the helpful video I'm one of your subscriber.im in Alberta Canada I'm planing to build one as I use my tiny arc welder ( Hitbox ) I'm only used it once In a while,I'm just getting some info how was your 220 now is there any issues or problems ?
Thank in advance
I'm glad you added this detail about the breakers being tied together, so they could trip together? That is true!
Obviously, no reason for me to point out the breaker issue now...
Hello jm kc. Since I made this video I have sold that house and moved to a new shop. During the time I used the adaptor at the garage in the video it worked well for me without any issues. I never tripped a breaker and I didn't burn my house down as many have told me in the comments. It just worked and didn't ever give me any negative issues. I would recommend if you plan to build one, that you use a larger gauge wire than I did just for safety sake. If I were to make another one, I think I would use Romex with a minimum of 12 gauge wire (yellow insulation here) just to be safe. I did check the extension cord leads I used on mine after every welding session. I just grabbed them with my hand to see if they were getting hot and they never did. I think the ( Hitbox) is basically the same welder as my Juba ZX7-200 so my guess is you should have similar results. Good luck to you and happy welding my friend.
@@DIYHomesteadProjectsDIYHP10
12 gage wire is a good safe bet. 14 g isn't really enough? 10 g is difficult to work with! I don't want to get into how difficult, if it's also direct burial!
itsdatruff - I really don't know about utilizing two 120V inverters tied together to create a 240V circuit as I have never done that. I suppose it is possible using the same principles I have on my combiner but I don't know for sure. The biggest problem I see is how to make them both trip at the same time if you have an issue with the AC unit. I don't know what that would do to the inverters or the AC unit. That's a completely different situation compared to a small welder like I used. My little welder only draws power for a short period of time say 1 or 2 minutes then it's basically idle for a longer period of time. This has a much lower demand on the 240V circuit compared to running an AC unit constantly for hours at a time. That will have a much higher demand on the circuit, batteries and inverters. Sorry I can't answer your question but I just haven't tried anything like that so I can't give you any real advice.
You knew you would get many negative comments when you posted this video........but not from me! Well done.
Or electrical safety standards. But hey in a pinch fuck that's a great idea
will not work if the outlets are not on separate legs from the main box
While this concept can in theory work, the male plugs ends you are using are 15amp rated, you also would need 20amp rated conductors #12 , the two separate feeds would need to be fed from opposite bus bars in the main panel, being fed from a double pole breaker. The 220 plug is also a 30A plug where devices requiring this style of plug general use at or above 20amps. Circuits should never be continuously used at their total capacity. As an electrician there are load requirements that need to be followed, great example is a water heater that draws 18amp must have a 30 amp circuit, while it may not cause a fire on a 20 amp it will generate heat in the breaker. Codes states that a load that uses more than 75% of the circuit capacity requiters the next step up breaker with wire to match the ampacity of the circuit. I will say this a quick solution in an emergency situation but if it is going to be used more than once, dont. There are so many over ampacity violations with this adapter, not to mention feed is coming from 2 separate unattached breakers.
Yes. Electrician here from Utah. Code is for your protection. Sketchy. The reason the $300 dollar alternative is there because it has over current protection built in with voltage sensors.
20 amp circuit should only utilized to 15-16 amps. Not only as such, but a welder in the code book is a dedicated circuit. It is a violation. I’d feel much better knowing that the a tie handle was in place and both outlets were in the same box to become a single welder circuit. But there again, I’m not aware of a reliable 20 amp 220 v welder. It’s 30 or greater. Even temp power on job sites have 220v 30 amp receptacles. You need to upsize your wire and install the correct breaker. Even if it means to surface mount conduit around from your meter.
Thanks. I would put an additional disclaimer right at the front of the video saying that you are doing this at your own risk, for those who don't bother to read the description pinned below the video.
I agree, just do it right & run a 240 line. Also, not using the white neutral wires removed that extra little safety of having more than 1 ground. I know you have 2 ground wires, but I would have added the neutrals too. Also, an easy way to remember which is hot is Black Gold. The black hot goes to the gold terminal.
Actually, the opposite is true. The safest way is to AVOID connecting the neutral as he did. That way, even if you connect only 1, you have 0 chances of electrocution. Or if the outlet is incorrectly wired. Imagine one of the house outlets was wired incorrectly (hot on neutral and neutral on hot, IT DOES happen more often than you think, especially in zones that use independent wires), if you have both neutral and hot wired to the plugs, you could close the circuit and create a nice sparky holiday...
I did the same thing, but in reverse order, in hooking up my generator to power the house I was wiring. Each of the outlets on the 120V receptacle is s a separate circuit , just like the 120V leads into the house, so I got 2 cords and wired then into the 240V circuit. You know what you're doing, you're safe. Just go buy the double pole breaker and put it in the box, just make sure you get the brand name of the box and breaker matched up.
Yes, maybe one side is left hot if the other trips but he won’t touch his tongue to it or anything like that. He is only using this set up “temporarily” and he knows that one side may still be live if one side trips but only him is using it and he will take precautions. He will unplug it when he is done and won’t leave it out for others to use. This country was built on things like this! Bravo to you Sir!😀
Im was a Nuc Electrician in US Navy Submarines, we know kludges better than anyone.
Good Job.....but the drawback is if you trip a breaker, you know have one phase power or 120v to your welder and it will now pull
double the current as its gonna draw the same power no matter how many volts you put through it. That's why appliances are dangerous with low voltage brown outs and must be tripped. Anyway the 2 breakers are likely to trip almost instantaneously one after another. Just saying, while a great kludge and since you know how to wire, just wire the 220 up to a correct breaker, then you'll always be back to make another video.
How do you figure?
This setup doesn't use the center tap (neutral) at all. If either breaker trips what ever is connected to that 220 outlet will be drawing exactly zero amps as it's now an open circuit unless there is a ground fault allowing leakage.
This is a legitimate question as I'm not an elechicken nor have I played one on TV.
Yep i did this at home to the dryer outlet. Im here to see if i can do this off a 220 outlet and a 110 on generator. Both outlets have their own breakers 30amp and 20amp. The 220 reads out at 46amps when no power is drawn but depending on what amp setting i use on my inverter welder say 120amps itll surge and at 130amps it pops the breaker. I will only be using one appliance at a time when in use. Any feed back would greatly be appreciated
Government buildings often had two separate 120 VAC lines (circuits) to a 4 by 4 box in the wall with two side by side duplex outlets. We combined the grounds, neutrals and hots. There should not be much potential difference between each hot lead if they come from the same main and all wire connections are well made and the correct size. We used jacketed 10/3 for the new extension cord to test motors and other equipment needing 220 VAC. Nice video and tutorial! You can save money doing it this way and it is safe if done properly.
Thank you! Finally someone who knows 👍
that’s because it’s close enough for gu’ment work.
No this is not "safe". If either 120V male comes out of either outlet, that plug "hot" prong will be "hot" 120V to ground.
The vast majority of US households are supplied with 220 AC, and you get 110 AC by 'splitting the phase'. It is basically a center tap transformer where the Neutral is the center tap and the other two sides are 220 VAC. This is often confused with three-phase power, which is the typical configuration for power generation. So, you end up with 110 AC hot to neutral at your wall plug, and the electrician runs circuits through your house, balancing between the two power circuits. The method in the video only works if you happen to have wiring from either sides of the 'split phase' near each other in your house. His method of checking AC voltage between two outlets works, but really dependent on how the house was wired if this is going to work for your particular house. Alternatively, you can install a 220 breaker into your main breaker box and install an outlet nearby. UA-cam has lots of instructional videos on how to do it yourself.
I made one and mounted a 220 volt meter to it.. Works great!
If one circuit drops there's no power at all shown on the meter, plus each 110v input has led indicator lights so it's easy to know which circuit is out.
Used plastic electrical box. The only thing big enough to hold it all.
That's a good idea!
I've been an electrician for 43 yrs, I don't recommend this at all, especially if there are other devices sharing either one of these circuits.you could expose other 120v devices to 240v.and even if your lucky enough to get away with it you should have doubled up your wire size by combining the whit and black wires together on the plugs it would handle more amps and that wire you were using didnt look like # 12 wire to me.I'm not trying to pee on your parade but this is dangerous.In the interest of what I just said I just did this on my test bench and its very possible to feed 240 back to other devices on either of those circuits, If I was a youtuber i would show this experiment to prove my point.
The reason this is unsafe has to do with circuit breakers. A 220V or 240V breaker will disconnect power to both of the hot legs in tandem, but the rig in this video is such that only one leg might have its breaker trip while the other leg might not trip.
Wire size is based on amps not volts. As long as the device only draws 20 amps, the 12 gauge wire size is not a problem. An electrician should know this.
no wires in this setup will normally carry more than 120v, only at the very end when they are combined in the device does it see 240v. Also i wonder if he should have put some sort of 240v circuit breaker into his device to make it safer, likely even GFI since its sort of outside.
Yea I thought this was questionable.
Yep yep. Well said. Common sense goes a long way
I came for the comments and wasn't disappointed.
I think all power outlet should not be on same lines as lights - when outlet trip the light goes out and it hard to find your way to power supply box in dark.
Never seen so many electricians, in one place 😂
Had to improvise one a long time ago with no real knowledge. And my hunch was right it Ffffin Worked. And believe me when I tell you. There isn't a room in the house I haven't welded something in.
I don't believe you . What kind of house do you live in ? I've lived in my house 42 years and have never needed to weld anything in any room. Of course my garage is detached. I'm guessing you're joking.
It's mostly common sense ,if you don't use your head don't even build it, great video
Exactly! Thanks👍
A device which is called a house "burner downer". Ideal for burning your electrical equipment up and burning your house down. If you do not want to spend the money pulling a dedicated 220 circuit, make an 50' extension that plugs in your dryer outlet and take the welder closer to the house. If by chance someone makes that rig and plugs it into two receptacles on the same circuit, #1, they will have two 110 legs phased parallel which will destroy the welder, #2 they will overload that circuit which if the breaker does not trip can burn the wiring and the house up.
1. If both recepticals are on the same circuit nothing will happen because the potential between the two plugs will be zero. Try probing two recepticals that are on the same breaker. One probe in one hot leg the other probe in the other hot leg. You will measure zero volts.
2. His mistake was not pinning the two single pole breakers together or replacing them with a 2 pole breaker.
@@pstoneking3418 Had two circuits on the same bus in the panel cross, couldn't figure out why one kept tripping except it became extremely hot(bordering on untouchable). Also, light bill was running about $250.00/month over what it was after repair. That was in the panel, now just imagine that same scenario through two 110 receptacles on #12 wire, (that's if it is #12). I thought the same as what you said, and had two electricians say the same. Had to find and fix the short to prove that wrong (breaker stopped overheating, electric bill came down to $72.00/month). And yes, both breakers were on the same buss bar.
Love the video! I've been sharing the hell out of it. I sell 2x72 belt grinder kits and the number 1 thing I hear is "but I don't have 220v in my shop" I also love how all the Electricians are pissed in the comments. The real reason is you're empowering their customers to help themselves instead of calling an Electrician. The only thing I tell people is to try and use two breakers that are next to each other than tie them together with a handle tie.
Love it! 👍
Right on👍👍
I see a lot of electricians not recommending this but I have to admit it's a neat idea.
I'm a important guy that knows everything about everything. If someone comes up with a work around that benefits them in their particular situation. I will chime in and make sure everyone knows how smart and informed I am, while telling others how stupid they are. Thank me and my generosity for putting down the idea you was excited about sharing just Incase someone else may be in the same situation and could benefit from the video. I care not that it's common sense that people that would try something like this is aware of potential risks. Plus if they were concerned so much that they wanted zero risk, they would surely pay a professional, like me , the expert in all things to do it
Now thats funny you be a good candidate to compete against sheldon from the big bang
Plugs in contraption “alright nothing exiting yet, thats good news” lol literally me after everything i build.
And we get the job done 👍
@@DIYHomesteadProjectsDIYHP10 yessir
LOL, Those of us who laugh have had premature excitement before.
Having a screwdriver blown out of your hand beats the hell out of caffeine!
@@DIYHomesteadProjectsDIYHP10 Hi, maybe you find the time to respond to my question. Being from Germany, I do have some electric stuff that needs 220V.
Especially cooking equipment. Is it possible and legal to have a 220V outlet in the Kitchen with a European plug? If not legal, what is an alternative? Build your own cable? I have used a power converter in the past, but that gets annoying.
@@MBrieger Unfortunately, I wouldn't know as I live in the US, instead, contact your local code center and ask them that question. They will be more informed about those types of questions.
This is not a recommended way of going about this. Fyi your outlets are only rated for 15 amps, they sell outlets rated for 20 amps. 220v outlets are pinned together in the panel for good reason. What you're doing will work, but can cause issues. Just run a dedicated 220v line to your garage.
Nice video for a cheap fix for a very small output 220-230 volt outlet solution. The only thing is that this is limited to very small amperage. It costs a lot to put in a 220-230 volt outlet but it is well worth it in the end for safety and for something that will do much larger amperage jobs. Not many welders are of that low amperage.
About the concerns over breakers that are not bridged, this can be handled with a 20Amp DPDT contactor with a 240V coil. Wire the output off the Normally Open contacts and put the coil across the 2 phases. If they are both live, it energizes and closes the circuit, if you loose one phase, the contactor releases and deenergizes both phases.
lose, not loose
I would add a small sub panel and connect both 120v plugs to the little panel and add a 20 amp 2 pole breaker then come out of the box and put your 240v socket/box now your a little safer
put both circuits on a double pole breaker in main box, safer
Yep, alot safer
Then it would not be portable which is why he said he made the thing .
@Jason Bowman What he is saying is to replace the circuit breakers with one double pole breaker. It would still feed both circuits, but would trip both breakers if you had a short. Just make sure to mark this in your box, just in case you sell the house, or replace the original breakers before you sell.
I don’t get it...
If you put a breaker on and unplug one of the cables without removing the plug for the device or switch the breaker to off, it’s still as dangerous.
What you should do is to install a breaker (or two, one for each source) that reacts to power, a breaker you need to push every time you start, in order to get power, a breaker that disconnects in the same moment you unplug the cable.
@Jason Bowman Great thought, Jason. Perhaps he is out of spaces in his panel. If not, he should run a dedicated 240V line direct from the panel, and not mess around. Meanwhile, the 2 120V circuits he is using should be on a 2 pole, 20 amp breaker at the very least. This guarantees that he will actually get 240V from the 2 panel busses, and adds another level of safety protection. I also think the cord should have been #12, the receptacles should be 20 amp as well. And I do believe that there is a likelihood that if the welder is plugged in and in the ON position, and one of his 120V plugs is unplugged while the other plug is plugged in to a live circuit, the unplugged one may have a voltage sitting on the hot terminal. It would be a good idea to test this theory if you’re going to use this configuration.
All these comments doesn't have any idea. This is useful for taking your 220v welder or plasma cutter to a place that doesn't have more than 110v plugs, so you can use your tools.
You are absolutely right Keven! It's a handy device and will definitely get you out of a bind for some situations. It sure helped me out!
It’s the same as hammering a nail using a rock, it works! Not pretty but it does work. I’m rewiring my neighbours garage tomorrow and I’m going to do this same thing and hide it in the walls except for the 220 volt outlet. My neighbour is really going to be surprised at how good I can do even if I’m not a real electrician. It’s the thought that counts,right? 😀👍
This only works if you have two separate breakers, each connected to a separate 110 leg inside your breaker box. Since you will never want to use that breaker for anything else (as a brief nod to safety) - you will always be better off pulling those two 110V breakers and installing a 220 double pole breaker instead. No exceptions.
exactly you still need 220v service for this to work...
I think what Brent is trying to say is these have to be on separate lines AND separate phases at panel. If you do not. If you have 2 outlets same phase this will not work.
A double pole breaker with the 240volts outlet must be installed together in the same box
@@ivanscountrymusicandcars2357 Wrong! Residential electric service in the United States (120/240 Vac) is sometimes called two-phase service but this is NOT correct. It is only single-phase, since both line voltages are derived from a single phase of a distribution transformer with a center tapped neutral and are 180° out of phase with each other.
@@ivanscountrymusicandcars2357 no you can do it on one bus and 2 110 breakers!
I was a service tech for Wards, I remember going to a very old house that had been wired by several people over the years. and someone had wired the living room in this same manor. The customer had just bought a new big screen TV, VCR and a stereo system. He had plugged in the TV and VCR into one outlet and he plugged the stereo into the other outlet, all was fine but when he went to connect the RCA cables from the stereo to the VCR and everything blew up. The customer said he didn't know what he had done but everything went poof. Yes this can be very dangerous, all is fine till you loose a ground! Never wire like this, and never drag a extension cord from another room, it may not be on the same leg either.
You are actually energizing the ground wire in that configuration. The two common wires you cut off should be terminated to all common terminals and configured with a pig tail terminated to common in the 220 outlet and ground all ground wires together as they are for any stray voltage as a safety and should never be used a energized conductor. Yes 👍
A nit-pick: NEC 110.14(A) Only one wire shall be installed under a terminal screw. In boxes with more than one grounding wire, the grounding wires shall be tied together with splicing devices (wire nuts) with a 6 inch “pigtail” for attaching to the grounding terminal of the switch, receptacle or any other device.
Has to be from opposite sides of buss bar, otherwise it will only be 120 volts, will measure zero between hots on same buss, 240 across buss bars.
Most people don't have opposite buss circuits just hanging out together
ImNotStalkingYou Every breaker position is the opposite buss. That’s why 240v breakers are connected together one above the other.
Best thing here would have been for him to replace the 2 single pole breakers with a 2 pole breaker. Problem solved.
the kitchen! may have a split plug on the counter...
I respectfully disagree that you will have 120v if both circuits are NOT on opposite sides of the buss bar. The voltage would be zero across both live wires if they happen to be on the same buss bar. This would be the same as putting both leads of your voltmeter on the same live wire. Voltage drop is zero.
You should mention that each outlet needs to be fed from separate buss bars in the panel. I think I would run a 240 volt outlet before I would do this but I have a lot of experience with electrical work. Thx for the video
@@crusherfang9368 Nope, he has established that he is getting it from one phase. That is all.
He HAS to be on separate phases, either in panel OR downstream. Physics requires it. He would potentially trip 2 breakers if he got it wrong.
110 , just wiring massively improperly
Also should be said that he is not making 220 from
Exactly what I needed. I have an inverter generator that I want to comible with a second one to make a 240 inverter for my welder
People mentioning the problem with the breakers are missing the point. Sure, rigging two 120v outlets to make a 240v is not "the right way". But, this is still a worthwhile way to improvise in a pinch.
For the cost of the materials you bought you could've run a dedicated 50amp line for the welder. 20a circuit, 15a wire, 15a plugs; living on the wild side!
I've caught a few those on fire and I wasn't using my welder!
Are you drunk. Have you checked the price of wire lately. Not possible.
@@jessjulian9458 My thoughts exactly. Am currently wiring my son's house, and you talk about "sticker shock!" Haven't checked prices since the Pandemic started .... it may be time to buy some supplies!
I know everyones said it, not just seperate circuits, separate bus-bars. He did show to do the voltage test though, which will give you the answer of course. Preferably, you know ALL the outlets on each line, and you know the associated breakers. He did it correctly, but if you didn't run your own lines, then you should do a little checking on your lines first just to get an accurate idea of what your working with, making sure of course that it has the right gauge wire and right breakers.
Convert one of those 120v circuits to 240v at the box using the ground as neutral and the black and white as separate phase 120v lines. This will require an extra breaker. Replace the 120v outlet with a 240v unit, observing color change. Everything will work, and you won't look like a complete hack.
Exactly what I did when I changed my well pump from 110 to 240, works flawlessly.
I like how conscientious you are about ensuring grounds are correctly bonded and not shorting out, etc. However, you need to make sure the two circuits are on a breaker with a common trip handle. I'm guessing it was run with 12/3 cable, which means if it was done correctly, would be on such a breaker since both circuits feed the same receptacle. This is a requirement since someone working on the receptacle could (will) get shocked if only one circuit is off. IOW, that receptacle with two circuits feeding it must be on a common trip breaker.
In general, I would suggest simply adding the 240 volt receptacle in a cut in box, being fed from the current receptacle outlet. This eliminates any margin for error and helps declutter your workbench. Ideally, you would run a small subpanel with 10/3 wire on a 30 amp common trip breaker, even replacing the current home run for the two circuits if necessary. This will feed the two existing circuits and give a 20-amp 240 volt dedicated circuit.
Some electricians object to running 240 volts on circuits feeding 120 volt devices, on the basis that one leg will be imbalanced with the other. First, the 240 volt load pulls equally from both, by nature, and the neutral will carry any imbalance current As long as the total current draw doesn't exceed 80% of the breaker's rating, there is no chance of tripping it. Even at 100% capacity for three hours or less should be fine.
I agree with you Casey
Why not just run 240 line from the main circuit box?
what if its a 120 or 110 voltage come in the panel
He meant if you don't have existing 240V line, you can improvise to his method.
It's about creativity and think differently.
@@seanjamaica5308 220 is just 2 110 circuits. In the box, a 220 breaker is basically just a 2 pole breaker each supplying 110.
@@briensickler8109 I like your explanation.
Test the theroy. unplug one side with the device plugged in and check the voltage from the right plug to the ground. It should be 0. if its 123 then you know the device is passing voltage.
Could actually damage the welder. depending on its internals.
Clever idea.
FYI: Most garage outlets are going to be on the SAME phase. So this won't work for most people. Electricians usually run all the garage outlets off of a single circuit.
Garage lights are usually on a SECOND circuit and MIGHT be on a different phase than the garage outlets -- that's what the maker of this video did.
He connected an outlet to his garage lights (top outlet). And used a second existing outlet (bottom outlet). And both were on different phases, so this worked for him.
But DON"T try to connect existing outlets in your garage. It probably won't work. Since they are on the same phase.
How can you tell if 2 outlets are on different phases? Use a multimeter. 1. Put the meter's red line in the hot site of outlet #1 and then 2. put the meter's black line in the outlet #2.
0 volts = same phase. Won't work
240 volts = different phases. Will work.
Two things, if you kick a breaker on one line you still have a live 120v circuit inside. If you forget this you can get a shock. Second, there are torque specs for a 240v outlet. Not meeting this torque requirement can cause the outlet to arc and melt and become a potential fire hazard.
I learned a long time ago from my uncle who was an electrician, Black to Brass, the hot wire always connects to the brass screw. Neutral screw is always silver and the ground is always green.
i was taught an easy (somewhat racist) way to remember this.... black ppl like gold teeth=black wire to gold screw.
If you can dream it, u CONDUIT!!!
😂😂
Hahaha, now that's funny!!
Tom cat ..."u CONDUIT". 😂😂😂
That’s just a pipe dream.
Electrical Humor....I like it!
Great work around stick and move technique. I know safety bla bla bla. For something that's not a permanent use. Outstanding demo. And application. I enjoyed the video and simple application. Drive on.
Thanks 👍
It’s gonna work but not safe! 50a plug on 20a circuit will overheat the wires( under overload situation, 30a current could flow through #12 wire without tripping 20a breaker) insulation will fail way sooner than normal use and may trip the breakers too! Not safe for the long run!!!Better use a clamp meter check the real current required by the welder.
He didn’t change the breakers out, the wiring is still protected by 20a breakers no matter what the size of plug he uses
Hahahaha the little welding machine I was waiting for like a Lincoln Miller comercial ones
Plug it in and check for voltage on the unplugged side.
The real problem that you have is the 14 gauge wire your using. It will heat up because your drawing 20 amps from it. It's a slow burn fuse in front of the breakers. Ever hear of a fusesble link? That's what you made.
Yes, I've seen new houses in South Carolina wired with 14 gauge wire and have a 20 amp breaker on them. I agree with you totally. What the hell is going on.
Jeffrey Whitlatch Absolute NEC violation! Are you sure #14 on 20 amp breaker?
@@DIYHomesteadProjectsDIYHP10 I don't think the orange cord (probably of Type SJT) is actually 14 gauge. 14-gauge/3-conductor Type SJT cord is much larger in diameter than what is shown. It is probably 16 AWG (13 amp max), possibly even 18 AWG (10 amp max). Those max ampacities (10A and 13A) are if 2 of the 3 conductors are carrying current and total length less than 100 ft.
Since this is by no means a device that is UL listed or conforms to the NEC, then you might as well go all-in and double-up your wires. Put the white and black wires of the orange SJT cables together (in parallel) and your wire ampacity will theoretically double.
However, a bigger problem may arise. I looked up the specs on your ZX7-200 welder and rated input power is 7KVA, which equates to 31.8 A @ 220VAC. That value would match the 50A/250V plug that came with your welder. If it only used 15 amps, they would have used a 20A/250V plug because it is cheaper. That 7KVA/31.8Amp spec is when you are dialed all the way up at 200 Amps of welding current. I suspect you'd start tripping your 20 Amp breakers around 110 -130 AMPS of welding current, and if you are indeed using 16 or 18 AWG SJT cord, then you've got an issue when you are drawing more than your wiring can take but less than the 20A trip-point of your breaker. Do you have renter's insurance?
20A breaker =/= 20A load. However, he doesn't even know what the load is.
This is a good tool for the toolbox , it doesn't replace an actual 240Vac circuit. But, in this day and time we never know what will come our way. The more you know ...👍
Very good explanation ...the problem I have is...l have been ✋ man in New York ... you have no idea how many outlets( most of them) in the old buildings are not grounded....just hot and neutral wire...
Dude, you are not getting "220v From 110v" - You are getting 220v from two 110v circuits 180 degrees out of phase with each other, which btw, is what most every residential service has. 120+120=240. Just run a 220v circuit.
Exactly, he's using 220 to get 220, what kind of video is this!
yup your right, he is just wasting time. what he is doing is running line to neutral which is 110 then another line to neutral 110... if he just connect line to line he can get a direct 240v...
@@rieronpaul3723 if you run the line to the other line you trip the breaker
Yes Charles... but 220VAC IS just 2 x 110 VAC lines from the break box.. this is identical to that just done at the wall instead of the box. The only thing you dont have in this circuit is the double breaker bar.
He's doing this cuz it's more convenient for him and the way he works; if it's better for you to have a dedicated 220 outlet install the dedicated 220 outlet.
That is very crafty. A little sketchy for my taste though LOL I would just take the time to run a dedicated 220 line from the breaker box
It's more the type of thing you would use in a pinch, not as something permanent.
I’m going to assume others have noticed this but you didn’t make 220 volts from 110 volt service. The breaker box you have feeding that garage is already setup for 220 volts (otherwise if it was 110 volts you would get no detectable voltage across the two outlets, they would both be fed by the same leg of 110 volts). All you really needed to do was put a 220 breaker in your box and wire the 220 outlet to that breaker. If you don’t follow along with that, try measuring the voltage across the hot of two separate outlets that are on the same leg of the panel (usually every other breaker in a traditional box) and you would have 110 volts.
To put it another way, if you connect one wire to the positive terminal of a battery and then add a second wire, you would agree the voltage is the same, it’s just two wires for presumably two different loads
You were just showing a easy way to get 220 if you didn’t want to run a 220 line and you had the power with separate circuits so why so many haters it’s just a option nice job
Thank you Scott, I appreciate your comment! There are a LOT of haters out there when it comes to DIY electrical videos. It's nice to get a comment from time to time from someone who displays common curtesy and common sense. Unfortunately, gents like yourself are few and far between in our world today. 👍 You made my day!
This will only work if your two 120 outlets are from opposite sides of the bus bar in the service panel. I don't know if you planned it that way or just got lucky but that is the only way you are going to see 240V across the lines.
He said each circuit was on a separate line, I assume he was referring to the main lines from the pole (separate phases).
I clicked this video just to see the comments and I was not disappointed!
😂😂😂😂 so did i
Its true if you have your welder turned on and plugged into that box, if you come into contact with one of the prongs on the plugs while one is plugged in you will be shocked. It will be trying to complete the circuit as you said. There will be a 120 volts across you and the prong , the box and anything grounded including through your shoes to actual ground. Also the outlets need to be whats referred to as 180° out of phase to get the 240 volts. I know you said on separate circuits, but for clarity one needs to be on L1 the other on L2 from the breaker box. You can have two circuits in phase and you'll only get 120 volts between them. Its just a matter of switching one of the breakers in the panel to another slot so its on the other leg of power. In a wiring like this with two separate 120 outlets on out of phase circuits you don't want to use a double breaker with the handles tied together like 240 circuits usually have. They need to be independent breakers for safety purposes.
Great detail in your video. 👍
The trick is to know that the 2 separate 120v are from 2 different poles.
You mentionned briefly that you installed the 2 outlets yourself, so you know they come from 2 diiferent 120 v sources.
But if anyone else tries that in his garage, how can he know that he gets 2 120v sources from 2 different poles. And that is the trick.
Unless you turn off everything from the main panel, and use a signal tracer to determine that you get 2 different 120v lines.
Also IMPORTANT NOTE: Make sure the two 110 volt outlets are on different/separate legs from the service panel. It will not work if both outlets are on same leg from service panel.
Did you watch the video?
@@frijoli9579 he was only making sure people are reminded of such...
@@frijoli9579 he didn’t say different legs, he said different lines. Saying “lines” is the same as saying circuits. If you know what he means then people don’t don’t need to watch this video.
Because you need two different phases right?
@@mrchrisknight315 No, it's still single phase.
Most appliances that would use a plug like that could draw 20 more than 16 amps. Wiring needs to be sized for 125% of continuous load plus 100% of non continuous load. An appliance should only draw 80% max of the ampacity of branch circuit wiring. Since this a 240v plug both legs need to broken at the same time should an overload or short circuit happen, especially if a neutral wire is present at the plug. It’s a good temporary bandaid, if you are experienced and know the wattage of the appliance to be plugged in.
Hi Mr . I am very appreciated your video to show peoples how to solve their electric problem ! Please do not mind those negative comments from those narrow mind and self fish peoples that does not help but criticize others ! Once again thank you for your video wishing you and your family having a wonderful merry Christmas and a Happy new year of 2023 !!!👍👌👏
Thank you and happy holidays to you an yours as well! 👍👍👍
I would think 🤔 you can use the same breaker for both plugs 🔌 because it’s rated for amps not volts. So if your machine is only pulling 10 amps or 2400 watts you’d be fine. It’s just like plugging 2 devices into one outlet. Thanks for the video I think you solved my problem.
Great point!
It would have been a LOT safer, and up to code, to run a three conductor plus ground wire to the garage from a double-pole breaker. That actually has a breaker on each line bridged with the other breaker so if one trips, so does the other one. In the garage, wire the 120 VAC outlets from black and white conductors. Wire the 240 VAC outlets from black and red conductors. In the breaker box, black and red conductors go to two poles of the breaker. White goes to the neutral bar. Green to the ground bar. Each of the outlets gets a ground connection, and if you use metal boxes, always ground the metal box. Note that some 240 VAC appliances use a four prong plug because they also need a white (neutral) connection. They often have 120 VAC light bulbs and control panels.
THANKS Patrick.P
I don't understand why they make appliances that NEED 120 in addition to 240. It seems much more sane to make a 240v only appliance as I assume is used in Europe with their 220-240v system...I know we have split phase but it still doesn't make sense.
Why not just wire a 220 connection and be done ✅
The panel has 120/240
This just let's you tap both legs without a homerun back to the panel on it's own two leg breaker.
Cheapest way to access the 240v that's already in the building
Running another line is redundant unless you need more than 15/20 amps. In the long run, it would be best to run a separate line to keep up with code.. however as long as the wiring is done properly, there shouldn't be any issue.
His Panel may be full.
I think he wants to save money and combine the 2 outlets which he already have for the added welder.
kenton romero Then install A sub panel
You have to make sure that each circuit is on a different buss than the other. The reason a 240V 2 Pole breaker is used to combine two 120v legs is that since that breaker pulls each line from a different buss, the sine wave is 180 degrees offset from each other and without a lot of Trig and electric theory, that means each leg's current draw offsets the other, and there for no neutral is needed (each neutral return of each leg is subtractive).. However, if you take to legs from the same buss then the Neutral current is additive and is a problem. I can only assume that you have taken the each leg from breakers on different busses. This is not a thing most folks should do without knowing code as this is basically a multiwire shared neutral circuit without a neutral.
I independently invented such a device -- only to find that the US Patent Office had my exact design on the books for more than 20-years.
The kicker with your 'cheat' is that you should actually just set another box and bring the two hots together -- and you should swap-out the circuit-breakers back at the panel. Doing that will make your project bullet-proof -- and according to Code.
Why don’t you just install a 240v Outlet on a 30 amp double pole breaker? Just seems safer to me.
What would be the fun in that? Nobody would watch that.
Or put in a proper welder outlet using a 50 Amp double pole breaker and #6 wire and a ground.
@@gravelydon7072 depend on the welder, not every welder require 50amp, some only need 30amp.
Actually, this way double protects the circuit. It’s overkill.
That's no fun
Excellent video!!! Thank you for really doing a great job explaining how to do that. I'm always amazed at how fascinating electrical can be, especially when I can begin to understand it.
Again appreciate you and you knowledge.
Sincerely,
Randy Chavez
There will likely be many people out there who need this video. Thanks for the great tip! And also, I am always curious about how 240V could generate from 120V. This video helped me understand how we could get 240V out of 120V.
I'm trying this today let yall kno how it works and I'm using his setup on a air conditioning window unit and the breakers are there for safety..it's alot of haters in the comments if you ask me
Hi, Bruce technically you do have 220 that way, my suggestion is to go back to the fuse box and move those breakers next to each other and drop a nail into breaker flip switch when you are going to use it as 220. Having a square D box I have done just that. I think a 220 breaker is faster at tripping though. My other thought is to run a dedicated 220 circuit to the garage as I can see it is attached to the house, and be in compliance with code.
Thanks for the input. That garage was detached and about 30 feet from the main house. My biggest reason for doing it this way is it was cheap, easy and temporary. When I sold that house, I unplugged my device and the house was completely in compliance with code. It also passed the electrical inspection with flying colors.
Depending on what you are powering you could damage it. If one breaker opens the remaining load supply is still hot and can fry certain circuits. Another issue could be the wire length. You can lookup the resistance of the wire and calculate that with a known length of wire or measure it then multiply that by the current draw. That will tell you the voltage drop. When one side voltage drops more, it will not push the same current. While using it other appliances on the 2 circuits should be off. You could balance the load with a transformer but I'm not recommending that. The right thing to do is use a 220 source from the panel or use a pigtail from your dryer.
Robert
MSEE
Robert S he had 1 vac voltage drop
Both line have a circuit breaker he says that many times
I did that once by mistake in a three way switch setup.. It worked fine with candescent bulbs, only the fancy big flat type switches I used would pop and flash if you slapped them on/off to quick. lol
Too funny!
Got a 240v welder running in my carport now thanks. This works excellent
Thanks for the video. I'm about to get an electric car and need a 240v line for fast charge. I'm gonna call the certified electrician anyway. :)
Good luck!
Smart idea don’t take any advice from this video
So thanks to this great video, i just built and tested my new plug. Im not an electrician btw.
It works just as described. Thank you.
Nice work!
If you have a fire your insurance may not cover it as this is not up to code and very dangerous.
Hi, cool idea, but you should really install a sub panel in your garage. That way you can have a disconnect and recep for your welder and your 120 volt receps. Sure would hate to see you damage your welder or have safety issues. Be safe.
Good enough for temporary uses I'm doing that from 36 years : cod, cods, safety all BS, it's works !!
Yes it does!
I recommend a dedicated circuit! Plus your extension cord wire isn’t rated for 20 amps.
Due to the risk of one one breaker tripping leaving you with just 120v on your 240v device, I would suggest a 240v breaker inline with this contraption so it would trip first.
Because 240V is the potential between both hots, for 240V to actually be used, both circuits would need to be active, anything actively using 240V would no longer have a completed circuit if one of the breakers trips. Also, a breaker is more specific for amperage not voltage (needs to be rated for the voltage, but what it trips on is current), but as this is 2 different phases of 120V, you would effectively be reproducing the same breaker setup you'd have in your panel.
@@jpfingstmann I think you are missing the point. Yeah, your device won't work, but you are still feeding 120 to it. If a 240 breaker trips, all power going to the outlet is killed. I have to agree that while this will work, the potential for problems is high because the breaker is not a single unit.
@@jpfingstmann Some 240v appliances can partially function on 120v, so there can be an issue depending on the appliance. My house has a fuse box for my drier, each leg has it's own fuse, it blew one fuse once and the only thing that didn't work was the heating element.
@@tanner88gt thats a different situation, your drier probably has a 4 wire receptacle. it has a white neutral wire that completes the 120v circuit to run the controls.
@@tanner88gt no matter the age of your house 3 wire or a 4 wire plug you should have a 2 pole breaker it's not only code but could potentially cause issues with appliances, maybe not the DRYER you have now but the next dryer or the next homeowners dryer.
I thinking this is for a person who rents or only needs 220 for a small project . My buds dad did this he explained quickly I was scratching my head but now I get 100% thanks for the tip bud .
Any problems that may be caused by tripping one breaker could be cleared by installing a 2 pole breaker, if you have panel space just use an unused space or remove the 2 single pole and use that space, one fault opens opens both sides.