Also, to further explain the 3 or 4 prong 240v receptacles: 3 wire is obviously 2 hot legs, plus ground for safety. A 4 prong 240v receptacle also includes a neutral wire. The reason for this is to bring both 240 and 120v to an appliance. A good example would be an electric stove or dryer, 240 for the heating elements and 120 for control panels or lighting. The 240v components connect between the 2 120v legs, the 120v portions connect to one leg and the neutral... so the same as a single circuit breaker.
@@christophervickers9685 110/120 is what I remember from years ago- I wasn’t sure when it changed, but google says most US homes were 120 in the 1950’s, and it became the official US standard in 1984. It was originally 110, became 115 in the 1930’s. Interesting how long archaic terms remain in our launguage!
This is fantastic. I am going to do this for my personal shop so I don't have to keep running a cord to the clothes dryer. Makes perfect sense and you're thinking is all good. It wouldn't meet code but it works! Don't let OSHA catch you with this!
I didn't build it ...LOL. and I don't take it on job sites either.... AND I told all the viewers to get advice from a real electrician and be code compliant ... so if you want to use it - do that AFTER you check all this and at your own risk ..... dryer outlet is typically 30 amp though - that is better than 20 amp with as cord like shown in the video .....
Had a welding union friend in the 90s who did this. Connected his 220 female plug split to two 50' standard extension cords, each having a male 110 plug. He'd run the two male plugs into two 110 house outlets, then be able to run it all outside and weld. Ran those cords outside and welded my vehicle that ws parked on the street. Too cool.
The reason why this trick worked is because of how the house wiring was done - Chicago code. I suspect this is identical in many ways to Louisville code which I worked with in the late '60s as an electricians helper between high school and college. Outside the city, county code allowed using 14-2w/ground to the outlet and the little shorting lug between the upper 'hot' blade and lower 'hot' blade was left in place. This went back to a single pole 15 A breaker. May have also used 12-2w/ground in high load areas back to a 20 A single pole breaker. Reasonable spacing was used between outlets depending on anticipated usage. In the city, due to numerous fires over the years from electrical overloads, the code required outlets to be located no more than 4 feet apart. The wiring was also different. BX armor jacket instead of Romex - Rats! The shorting lug was broken out thus isolating the top 'hot' socket contact from the bottom one. 12-3w/ground was wired back to a 20 A double pole breaker. The two voltage leads were wired to the upper and lower 'hot' blade contacts of the outlet. That's why you break out the shorting lug. This spread high loads as in the kitchen over two circuits instead of one, so even if the owner used cube taps or power strips, the current in the individual wires was cut in half as opposed to a single circuit feeding the outlet out in the county. This results in 220 volts available at every outlet at the current rating of the double pole breaker. The trick enables tapping power from the two 'hot' blades for 220 and tapping the ground and neutral as needed. If you tried this trick out in the county, it wouldn't work since the top and bottom 'hot' blade are both the same voltage. You can determine if this trick will work by either using a volt meter to measure the voltage between the two 'hot' blades of the outlet: 220 - go, 0 -no-go, or removing the cover plate and looking at the hot side of the outlet to see if the shorting lug is still in place. Since most panels are fed with 220, you may find another outlet on the other side of the 220 to make this work in a pinch, but for long term use, just hire a competent electrician to wire a dedicated outlet for your welder and spend your time welding instead of wire monkeying.
This works by plugging one into one room, and the other into another room, as code is that you should not get 240v going from the hot in a room to another hot in the same room. That means you can get only 120 in one room, but 240 from going to a hot in one room to a hot in another room. I did this same thing as a kid many years ago and my parents could not figure out how I did it. This video is correct. That is because you are going between two different hot legs you will get 240v instead of 0v. Also lights are usually 15v, and outlets are 20a. meaning you can get 20a at 240v. Also use 12awg or better wire to do this so your cord does not overheat.
Thanks a lot Pete! This will be great conversation to have with my brother in law that is an electrician. I try to come up with oddities for him. This will work well. Ha!
@ Bill Yellowdog Welding: throw my reply to your brother in law, he'll say can't be done or shouldn't be done HAHAHAHAHA yes i am bona fide Electrician / Photovoltaic Technician and carry OSHA card.
He will tell you it can be done, but it is 100% in violation of code and is totally unsafe. Think about it! Why is your electric cook stove, or your electric dryer not ran that way? Why does his welder manufacturer, not sell such a cable?
@@coypatton3160 i don't see how it could be unsafe. could POSSIBLY mess up your equipment if done incorrectly I suppose... I'd say the reason they dont sell them commercially is 2 reasons combined: 1. What % of consumers do you think could actually identify whether or not two 110v outlets are on the same leg? And 2. It's not really all that practical to try and make this your main method for getting 220v, it's more like an emergency backup. That said, I'm sure SOMEBODY out there is selling these custom cables
Wow Pete this really good. I won't share some of my wiring technologies, I have some 220 10amp with 50 amp plugs just so I can power them. Now I have a dedicated 220 20 amp with a ground fault and I converted a 10 guage 120 extension cord when I need to get outside. As I said earlier this was really good.😃J
To do this. U must be on 2 different phases and only use the 2 hots kinda tricky and time consuming. I would recommend u use the dryer or stove outlet. Much easier faster safer Yes I am master electrician and welder
What if you don't have a long enough cord to reach the dryer plug in the laundry room from the garage? I have a wall plug adapter and it doesn't power it
North american wiring makes more sense when you realize that your panel is 240v, but adapted to 120v when a single leg is connected to a neutral. The two legs have 240v potential, A single leg to neutral has a 120v potential. And because it's AC, or Alternating current, there is no + or -.
To your viewers. As an electrical engineer working for electrical contractors for many years, yes this will work for his situation. But you should not do this. It violates all safety standards, meaning it is dangerous. Dangers are fire and your life. Absolutely do not do this and expect to use it numerous times. As I teach others, " Just because you can do something, doesn't mean you can do something". So, install 240 volt outlets when needed, or have them installed. Your house and your life are worth more. Please be safe and live longer.
Adam A I am at a loss for what you are trying to say in the first part. My comment was nothing to do with wire size being different for voltages. My comment was life safety. Please explain your comment on max current being higher with shorter runs of wire. That is interesting. As far as the comment about electricians, it is an ignorant comment and no comment is needed from me.
Adam A It is obvious you have very very limited knowledge of how electricity works and how to make its use as safe as possible. As far as communism, just guessing that you lean to the right and think that the left is on the side toward communism. Please read the definitions attached direct from dictionaries. Please note whether communism is right or left in the definitions. Fascism (/ˈfæʃɪzəm/) is a form of far-right, authoritarian ultranationalism characterized by dictatorial power, forcible suppression of opposition, and strong regimentation of society and of the economy which came to prominence in early 20th-century Europe National Socialism (German: Nationalsozialismus), more commonly known as Nazism (/ˈnɑːtsiɪzəm, ˈnæt-/),[1] is the ideologyand practices associated with the Nazi Party-officially the National Socialist German Workers' Party (Nationalsozialistische Deutsche Arbeiterpartei or NSDAP)-in Nazi Germany, and of other far-right groups with similar ideas and aims. Enjoy your life!
Adam A My point was life safety. You are only talking about fires for some reason. Here are possible causes of fires from electricity. 1. Conductors installed that are too small for the overcurrent protection and overheating. 2. Correctly sized conductors for the overcurrent protection, but placed in a situation that cause a fire. 2-a. A cord on an appliance that is covered by something like a throw rug or mat. 2-b. Too many conductors installed in a conduit. 2-c. A conductor gets damaged and starts arcing, but not with enough amps to cause overcurrent. 2-d. Drilling into a cable and causing an arc blast which can cause fire. 3. Voltage drop not accounted for in the conductor length, can cause voltage drop in a motor circuit and cause a motor to burn. Life Safety issue 1. What is plugged into this device trips a breaker can be assumed by unknowing people to be completely turned off. Possibility for getting shocked is greatly increased. Possible death. 2. Putting a receptacle that is rated higher than the overcurrent device can allow someone to plug in an appliance that draws too much current will trip the breaker. With continued use, this can damage the breaker and cause it to not trip at some later date when the circuit is overloaded. I hope this satisfies your need.
Just to be clear, a house hold panel only has one 240v phase, made up of 2 legs. The common conception is that we get 120v service that can be doubled when we need 240v, but it's actually the other way around.
In a pinch yes but you must be careful that you know what is going on. I was considering this for my everlast welder if I had to do some offsite welding with my everlast and didn't have access to 220v.
Yep. There's all kinds of handy temporary work-arounds if one is familiar with the basics of residential power delivery. The caveat being, it can be highly dangerous if one does not know *exactly* what they're doing -- suicide cables are named aptly. Proceed with an extreme level of caution. Injuring yourself or another with such measures may expose one to civil and/or criminal penalties. But, as with all things, being able to dangle one's toes over the line occasionally helps get difficult projects to completion.
I will just add a final statement, all 220v applications are different, and some welders use a 120v (hot neutral) within the welder to drive motors within the machine. Some older larger welders even have 120v plugs on the outside for grinders, lights,etc. Just because your application and your welder does not use a 120v(hot neutral) within the internal wiring, you can not generalize your setup for all welders. I like you and I think this thread is a thought provoker for an application to enable 220v wiring.
JIMMY TATE ..... I never meant for anyone to take the term ‘hot neutral’ literally. I was just trying to emphasize that a neutral (as apposed to a ground) will carry some current when there is a load downstream. It was just a play on words.
Bernadeta, I'm not picking on you, just trying curb the dissemination of inaccurate information. In cases such as you described the plug on the welder should be a 4 prong plug. It is a requirement of the NEC to have a separate safety ground.
ZILA, There is no place in your connection for a neutral. The practice of grounding equipment through a neutral was a cost/material saving measure of days gone by and is no longer allowed.
There are many ways to skin a cat. 1st.) making a 240 volt from the main box. 2nd.) make an extension cord, using two outlets, that are on separate phases, multimeter will read 240 volts. 3rd.) other option is AT YOUR OWN RISK. it involves connecting at the transformer. (that's if your meter hasn't been hooked up) you've been warned. Gives Video a Thumbs UP. i Like, OLE!
Before even watching the video I can say yes it can work but you need to make sure that you use 2 110 outlets on 2 different breakers. Temp only should be ok
you can put the neutral wire on a breaker beside the corresponding hot wire (from a 115v plug) to get 220-250V... as long as the breakers match the wire gage and the plugs are made of ceramic not plastic.
I made something similar for use on my welder. I made up a 10ft 10ga cord with two junction boxes, one has the 220v plug for my welder the other has 4x 110v plugs for other power tools or lights. On the other end I'm using L14-30 generator plugs so i can use this cable on a generator if i need to also any extension cables have the L14-30 plugs. The L14-30 plugs are $25-60 in stores but are around $10 on ebay if anyone wants to know.
n124lp. - Nuetrals and grounds should never be substatuted for safety reasons. If you run a circuit to a 220v appliance, welder, or motor, you have be familiar with the wiring diagram inside that machine. There are 220v applications (some motors) that will not have a 120v (single hot leg/neutral) within the internals, In this case neutral Should not be used, just wire the plug with L1 and L2 and ground. The ground is not carrying current but is just for safety. In Zela’s wiring, his grounds are carrying current due to the internal 120v applications in the welder, so a neutral is needed to complete that circuit. In this case the 3rd prong on the plug is a current carrying neutral (NOT a ground) For safety these applications should either have a 4 prong plug or A 3 prong plug with a extra grounding wire for the case of the welder. If you are working by yourself in a temporary situation, and you understand what I am saying, go for it. But if these wiring remain in place, you could kill someone.
Bernadeta K >>In Zela’s wiring, his grounds are carrying current due to the internal 120v applications in the welder, so a neutral is needed to complete that circuit.> In this case the 3rd prong on the plug is a current carrying neutral (NOT a ground)> For safety these applications should either have a 4 prong plug or A 3 prong plug with a extra grounding wire for the case of the welder. If you are working by yourself in a temporary situation, and you understand what I am saying, go for it. But if these wiring remain in place, you could kill someone.
Bernadeta, OK, You do seem to have some of it, but unless I misunderstand, ZILA's welder does not use any 110v. And if it did, then he still should not wire his current plug with a neutral, but rather change to a L14-30 plug and receptacle.
i bought an esab rebel that came with a 220 plug (the style that looks like a giant 110 plug). i had to make an adapter to plug into my engine drive that has 4 prongs, 3 parallel to each other and a round one. i was told by an electrician to wire the red and black to the two parallels on the female plug, the white to the round, and tape off the green. given this vid, you did the same thing but used the green and eliminated the white. im not saying you or him is wrong, but one of you has to be... right??
Sometimes, as in your case, the electrician is wrong... although both will work. Neutral wire is not used in a 240V supply. Check out the NEMA specifications and see if you can find a receptacle that has a round neutral (white). The round is for Ground wire.
Daniel Gagne you can do that, provided that there is a 220 outlet in the house somewhere.... I have seen places with natural gas range, natural gas dryer, natural gas hot water heater and only window ac .... not a 220 hook up in the entire house ....
I actually did this when I was much younger. I was living in an old house trailer that didn’t have any 220 circuits in the main panel. I got a stacked washer-dryer combo that was run off a 220 plug. After some head scratching I came up with this system so I could use it. Did it for a couple of years that way. The first time I used it, I did keep an eagle eye on it and kept feeling the wires to make sure nothing overheated, but it never did.
Like others said this is that dangerous 2 110v circuits from both phases wired together to make 220v. Problem is the hz is 60 not 50 and the amperage is 15/15 or 20/20 not 30 total so if one breaker pops the other line is still live at the join. That can kill you, and also the wiring is not rated for the potential amps draw so fire is easily possible.
I use all my Welders on NEMA 14-50 now since Generators also use those a lot. But never the less I bet this video is very usefull for a bunch of folks..... back to welding ....
The long story short... you can get 2 different phases 120V each in almost any US-Canada kitchen. Most kitchen have split receptacles here, at least new homes have them.... You get 120V from 1 narrow prong from one receptacle and you get 120V from another narrow prong from another receptacle. If receptacles are on the same 120V wire (the same phase) you get nothing between first and second prongs, but if they are on different wires (connected to different phases) you get 240V between them. I used this trick a few times when I got stuck with no 240....
I would sure love to see these houses with 20 amp breakers using 12 awg wiring to 20 amp sockets because they do not exist around me (even in new homes).
Your wiring connections will work, but using grounds for neutrals can be dangerous. Neutrals can carry current, so if you mix ground and neutrals down stream from your electrical panel, you energize grounded appliances and subject yourself to shock. The 3rd prong on 220 plugs should be neutral not ground.
I can see where using a neutral for a ground could be a problem, but I don't see how a neutral would come into play in 240v residential applications. The neutral is only needed as the halfway point between the two hot legs, which have 240 volts between them, so that the voltage between either of the hots and the neutral is 120, right?
Current takes the path of least resistance so if you have ground then that's the path, my detached garage has a ground rod and is connected to the panel. Also basically all the new welders use 2 hot and 1 ground.
Sorry Bernadeta, You are misinformed. You should never have a Neutral on a 3 terminal 220 Receptacle. The Ground is there for safety, NOT to carry current.
First you are not running the welder on 110 volts. you are running it on 220 volts. Each phase on the gimmicked plug has 110 volts but they are out of phase . The receptacles that you use with the cord are different phases. Know what you are talking about.....
JIMMY well said - so unreality i AM running the welder on 100 volts ! 2 circuits of 110 volts ... even on the same phase (that is why it is called single phase) .... if you touch either one of the hot wires - you are getting zapped with 110 volt "only" and yes - i get it the clever thing is to combine those 2 circuits and make it not work 110 but 22 because although each circuit is 110 only - because they are 180 degree phase shifted they make 220 hot against hot. now "real 230 volt" is make from 400 volt 3 phase like in all of europa ad most of the rest of the world. you have 33 hot legs each one carries 230 volt ... and all 3 of lose legs are 120 degree offset. now if you touch that 230 volt hot wire you are actually getting zapped with 230 ! not 110 .... Thanks for watching and you input
Indeed it would be 220/240. But against code. You need a breaker that is going to trip both phases if there is a fault. You also need to be sure both phases are derived from the same source (which is typical in a home).
chas williams like i said. I didn’t build it. A guy who assured me that he was an electrician did. I just used it a hand full of times in the last 10 years to help me out of a jam.
ZILA, Jimmy is correct. You are running the welder on 220V not 110V. You are simply using the 2 - 110v circuits, opposite halves of a Split Phase (not same phase), to provide the connections to the 220V source. The 110V is between either leg and neutral/ground but you are not using the neutral in your welder (you are however electrocuting yourself with 110v if you only touch one leg and ground... but 220V if you touch both legs, same as your "real" voltage in europe) I know you generally understand it, but are not communicating it accurately. Chas, Against what Code? (rhetorical question.) There is nothing in the code that I have seen that deals with this type of not permanent plug in equipment... unless you try to argue 400-8(1), but that'd be a weak argument. The "need" to have a 2 conductor breaker is for permanent wiring within the structure. Here it is a 'SHOULD' but not violating the code.
Lakeman i get that i am using 220 in reality. The only thing that i am not getting in your comment where the common in welder is coming from??? So we agree that there are 2 hot. And than my welder has a green wire which i was under the impression green is ground ? Especially if that same green wire is connected to the metal outside casing of the welder ! And there is a little ground symbol on the outside casing .... also that 3rd wire is never supposed to carry any current ( unless there is an equipment failure ) I mean literally - that third wire besides that it is green, the ONLY thing that it is connected to in the machine is the metal housing or casing or whatever you want to call it of the machine ... So it looks like a ground, it acts like a ground ..... and you say its a common ....? What am i missing ?
To all who are commenting and saying two phases, there is only one phase "single phase". If you meant to say two phase conductors instead of hot conductors, then ok. I love comments on electrical videos!! Most are totally wrong.
kevin, you are right - you can clearly see that the transformer only picks up one phase on the pole, it only ties into one of the high voltage lines (not 2 not 3) .... and coming from Europe myself it was very difficult to understand that int eh breaker box ther are not actually 2 or 3 phases but one phase and in inverted phase. it is the same phase all the time on every leg in the box just half the breakers are on the 180 degree inverted phase ... and if you put the phase and the inverted pahse together you get 220 or 240 or whatever you get where you live ... It is "complicated" but not really ...
ZILA Again, there is only one phase. There is no such thing as inverted phase or 180 degrees shift. The only difference is the voltage. They are at exactly the same point in time. The neutral is a conductor connected to the 240 volt coil at half way through the number of windings, therefore half the voltage on both sides of neutral. When you see a sine wave drawn with a horizontal line through it at zero, the length of the line direction is time. Good luck with your channel.
ZILA No problem. Many people have been mis-informed! The problem is they are placing the mis-information on UA-cam and someone is going to get hurt or die.
So how dose this work with my house , my house only has Two wires period coming into my box the third one is taped back to its self, will this work in my case , I don’t have a neutral wire at all my service is one 120 or 124, I only have 112 sockets in my house, 40 amps main 1 breaker, it’s two 20 amp connected together, thanks BigAl California.
Zika, look at all your 220v connections in your house, they will have 3 things in common - an L1 , L2, and Neutral connection. They may or not have a ground. You are misleading people to think that the neutral can be substatuted with a ground in a 3 prong plug. Google it, how to wire a 220v appliance.
Bernadeta K >>Zika, look at all your 220v connections in your house, they will have 3 things in common - an L1 , L2, and Neutral connection.> They may or not have a ground. You are misleading people to think that the neutral can be substatuted with a ground in a 3 prong plug. Google it, how to wire a 220v appliance.
Sometimes neutral is bonded with ground. Sometimes it isn't. Even if it is bonded, it just feels wrong to treat ground and neutral interchangeably. I've always assumed (please correct me if I am wrong) that a three prong 240V plug is L1, L2 and ground. Four prong 240V outlets are L1, L2, neutral and ground. And the only ones that you can safely pull 120V out of are the four wire 240V feeds.
Sorry Bernadeta, You are misinformed. You should almost never have a Neutral on a 3 terminal 240V Receptacle (the exceptions being the outdated 10-30 and 10-50 which no longer meet code.) The Ground is, and must be, there for safety, NOT to carry current under normal operation conditions. They may have a Neutral as well (eg. 14-50 Range Outlet) if they must also supply 120V. ZILA has that part correct. Don't blindly believe everything you read on the internet.
Question- hope someone can help. I have a 15a 110v outlet. I need 240v at 15a. Can I take my neutral from my 15a romex off the neutral bar and put it on a new 15a 110v breaker across the panel on a different phase? Code is irrelevant, i just want it to work. Makes sense to me.
Good info if you need to this once. The different 220 outlets are for different amperage house hold appliances. This is so you cannot plug an electric range into a dryer outlet which the wiring is only good for half(?) the amperage the stove requires. Some people have changed the outlet or the plug on a stove and had an electrical fire.
I don't know - in my house the range is 30 amp and the dryer is also.??? but like I said - I AM NOT AN ELECTRICIAN. check with a real electrician and local codes .... be safe - don't burn your house down !
You're exactly right, but in addition, the wiring in the circuit is sized for amount of amperage. Some people change the plug (or just plug in an appliance with large current draw of 120V) *AND* the breaker. It "works", until the wires in your wall catch fire. With all electrical stuff, you have to get everything right; one thing wrong can be catastrophic.
To be technically correct, you can plug a higher amperage device into lower amperage receptacle. either with an adapter or changing the receptacle. The key is that you CANNOT increase the rating of the Breaker. The breaker must protect the lowest rated component in the circuit.
you plug one 110 plug in the living room and the other one in the kitchen or bedroom as long as they are on different legs, and they get wired in a 220 outlet .. and ere you go
While this works, its not advisable. 1st, although I'm not a licensed Electrician, I wouldn't think this is leagal. 2nd, this will be lethal if not done correctly. 3rd, I think if there was a short, it would be possible to backfeed and energize an otherwise 110v Circuit.
so using this logic can you run from 2 different 120v plugs on the same leg to make the amp draw per plug go down in 120v? (as long as they are different breakers) to run things like a skillsaw without tripping the breakers?
Appears so. Say, 2 20A breakers in parallel you could draw total of 40A theoretically. Reality probably be somewhat less than 40A would blow one of the breakers .
Ok so I'm wanting to run my welder off a small generator but the 220 has a 13amp breaker not big enough, but it has two 110 receptacles both wired on separate legs with separate 13 amp breakers. Doing this I should be able to make it work.
13 amps is 13 amps if you get 13 amps on 110 volt you have 1430 watts at your disposal if you run 13 amps on 220 volt you have 2860 watts at your disposal ... having 2 legs of 110 with 1430 each gives you 2860 ... so no there is no advantage
This is well explained, just not a great idea. It's really not difficult to run a dedicated 240v line. Or, use the electric dryer plug if it's a temporary situation.
the way how the welding machine requires it to be wired - that bottom prong needs to be a ground as it directly connects to the sheetmetal case of the welder. the welder itself needs 2 hots and a ground. there is no common needed there is nothing that is 110 in the welder. I know its is confusing to me as well - and like o said I am not a real electrician I dont even play one on UA-cam the way how all the operators annular on the welder that I have read read is that there are 2 hots and a ground. I see what you are saying how the outlet itself is labeled contrary to what I say in the video. I dont really know why....
zeke112964 the common wire .... and later on they said that that would be “unsafe” as the common wire would carry some residual electrical current .... but yet in the usa the green and the white are connected inside the breaker box 🙄 In most of europe the are separated in the box and the white ( which is blue in europe) is grounded a few miles outside the city where the green ( which is yellow with a green stripe) is grounded multiple times inside and around your house .... Electricity only makes limited sense to me at times ....🤷♂️
thank you for watching and than you for specifying that. so can i call it 110 volt "nominal" so people know what i am talking about ? although i actually measure in my shop just shy of 118 volt .... ? and 220 nominal? which measure just shy of 236 actual ? most modern inverter machines will run from 208-240 or even 260 (if run on a miller or lincoln engine drive) with no problem ....
Really enjoying your videos and learning a lot. Thank you for doing what you do. Going to grab an HTP Pro Pulse 200 when they become avail thanks you and Chucke.
The voltage measured at the wall for me is 244v. And this is 100% incorrect information. Excluding local variances, standard residential electrical voltages in North America are 120 and 240. You are one Google search away from this information. There is no transition from 240 to 220. And your math isn't even correct. 123 x 2 = 246. If both hot legs of your split phase system are 123 your voltage across both hots mathematically must be 246. 220v is an artifact of a bygone era (the 1940s) and the fact that 220v is the standard across much of Europe.
@@lakeman2604 - Yes "commonly used" but it's more than technically correct. If cases where you have to calculate wattage for any reason and similar uses, you need to use the correct nomination -- you might as well get in the habit of using the "technically correct" designation so that you're thinking about it that way. Plus, if you're training an inexperienced person, best to use the technically-correct usage as you're doing so; you never know where that person is going to go in the future and what knowledge he/she may need. It's a very small thing, but there is at least some use in being technically correct.
Say big dog I've been doing that for years man I run a 220 Mig mines Lincoln I've only been in one residence why couldn't find 220 volt new construction inspector came in and made correct an unbalanced system anyway I got 2 100 foot extension cords I plug in in an adapter box at the welding machine
Your answer, no not legal. It works but do I recommend? No comment. Have I done it? Yes. Not a lawyer but I highly doubt anyone will be fined for it but if you burn the house down it won't be covered
Ryan the “not very useful” is all depending on what machine you want to run on that cuircuit .... 1st of all its about double as useful as 110/120 volt on a 20 amp circuit 2nd if you want to run a miller 252 wide open that pulls 50amps from the wall of course its useless 3rd if you have a modern ( maybe even European build ) inverter machine .... things look different 4th the standard in most of europe is 230 volt 16 amp Now there are some 20amp circuits but those are far and few between 4th they actually make 180 amp machine recently even 200 amp machines ( tig and some mig mostly) that - believe it or not will run on this power
I think I know how he did it. You sure have a confusing way of explaining it. Modern fuse panels have everything split up and hot leads are hooked to one hot 110 volt line or the other. To get 220 volts you have to use both 110 volt hot lines. To get 220 volts the way he was doing it he had to connect to a 110 volt hot side that is hooked say to the left side of the box ( example : bedroom is hooked to left side hot line ) and then get one that is hooked to the right side 110 volt hot line ( example: bathroom outlet is hooked to the right side 110 volt hot line) and manage to connect to both 110 volt lines and get 220 volts. This might even work except you would probably have to plug one of your cords into an apartment way down the hall to get a connection to the opposite side of the fuse panel than your apartment is connected to. 220 higher voltage would take less current so you might get enough through those little wires all that distance to weld very low. Probably pop the breakers every 20 seconds though.
The internet is a tremendous thing. I explain things like this to my sons how much trouble I went through just to find out information such as this back in the 70s. I had the idea how it might work but wanted to clarify. I could not get the info from anyone. Any electricians I worked with acted like I wanted the secret location to their diamond mine. I finally found a diagram in a book in a store. Now you can go online and find how just about anything works
You shouldn't be telling people about the 22110 trick because it's not legal it's not allowed by code no inspector would allow it because a 220 has to be joined together so if one of the two phases trips the whole thing goes what's your doing is literally a hazard
OK... 1. Change your name as your not living up to it! 2. he said he isn't an electrician and that it physically works NOT that it meets code ,that you should do this or even my favorite , HAY KIDS, try this at home!!! 3. basic physics , take 110v source to pole A . apply sepereate 110v source to pole B add a ground or nutral and you have 220v . not talking hazards or codes just basic math. 4. if we only teach people what is legal , not possible , our world would look like africa 100 years ago if not 1000. 5. your right that no code enforcer would approve. 6. however , like having a kid around a camp fire I wouldn't leave it unattended. and have safty material handy. 6.5. shit not going to make 10. ( white out ? we don't need no stinkin white out. we have backspace:) 7. you were not concise on the " join together" part. From what I gather breaker 1 ( pole A) has a fuse , leaving breaker 2 ( pole B ) hot causing a fire or electrocution . Now again not saying the whole things not hazardous. But a breaker by definition is a fuse and will trip (shut off ) with excesive amps or other problems . So both pole A and pole B have separate fuses and should... SHOULD, blow both fuses if over amped or grounded , crossed ext... 8. TRICK. this is not a trick it's a jerry rig or work around as a favorite quote says " A trick is what a prostitute does for money". 9. im a survivalist , say your power ( main power) goes out , you have your 110v generator and your only heat source is 220v. what do you do? or your wet clothes and no fire but a 220v dryer. You can't do shit without knowledge. 10. What would you say if I told you , you could power a small house with a single car alternator ; which you can...or charge you phone with a lemon ( the more the merrier ) also possible. phew made it to 10
120V is the modern terminology. This voltage reference (and 240V) should be used. Mostly it is simple terminology but often a person needs to calculate wattage to get an accurate measure of power draw; if you use "110" instead of "120" in those calculations, your wattage calculations will be off by almost 10%; this could mean simple failure, fire, or electrocution. Everyone, please get in the habit of using "120V" and "240V". It's not a big thing -- until it makes a difference and then it IS a big thing.
Even though you are technically correct, 110v/220v, 115v/230v and 120v/240v are all commonly used are understood by most to mean the same thing. Anyone dealing with calculations where it will make a significant difference will know. For everyone else it just doesn’t really matter.
No you have to get a rotary phase converter. In residential electricity there are typically only two poles available so that is single phase 240 Max. You have to have a third line coming in from the street to have three phase you can plug into without converting.
now if you mean hooking a single phase machine into a 3 phase outlet ?? than yes - that video is coming too ! give me a couple weeks ..... if you mean hooking a 3 phase machine into single phase at your house? than no. - sorry. Look up phase converters (on youtube) there is a few guys who do things like that - BUT I am not an electrician and I don't know enough about it so I stay out of it ....
I use the the quick 220. It keeps things legal and has a circuit breaker that trips if something goes wrong. Example onetime at a commercial building I made 480 instead of 220 Volts and the it tripped the breaker. I would defiantly invest in the quick 220 to keep things safe and legal. www.quick220.com/
Thanks! Could you recommend stick welder only for occasional use? Looking to buy something less than 1000 USD but I want it to work on both 50 & 60 Hertz.
i dont have first hand experience with a lot of "entry-level" sticks welders ... the cheapest i own is over $1000 ... typically for 7018 rods if you are looking at an asian import the overcasts don't do a bad job .... (stay clear of lotus and most of the harbor freight stuff ... miller master 160 is $949 but i am not sure that is is worth the investment - i only welded a few rods with it like 2 years ago .... i never used a lincoln Invertec® V155-S ...... like i said - i DONT have a lot of experiment with those machines and i really hate to tell people to buy something that i didnt use and test myself ... i dont recommend things by brand name - or model especially if i have no experience with hem or dont know if or how they hold up ... so sorry if i can not help you too much - but go to your local welding guy and ask them to test a machine, ron a few rods - or go to an online seller who offers a 30 or 90 day money back guarantee and try the machine out - go online on welding forums and see what others have to say who own this kind of machine ... that is the best advice i can give you. SPEC SHEETS only tell you part of the truth ! there is a thing "arc dynamic" how the machine feels when you weld with it and how the rods "run" and how the bead lays down ... that is something that no spec sheet can capture - that is something you have to experience !!!! and THAT is the tough part .... for example the HTP inverarc ($1499 one their website $1195 at fab tech last november in chicago) I own that machine - and the arc dynamic and the way who it welds - it is right on par with my $15000 lincoln vantage 400 !!! of course it is not as powerful and it can not wire weld (not even with a suitcase and it does not have a diesel engine..... BUT the arc quality and arc dynamic are most definitely in the same class !!! but i know it is out of your price range so i use it there to show you the point of spec sheets only tell part of the truth.
I am sad that person like you would go down this slippery slope gerry rigging power sources advice on UA-cam , yes , similar thing happened to me at my place of employment but i would personnel avoid directly advertising it.
maybe you will be more happy with my single 3 phase video ... what do you think about 100% legal adapter plugs to run a single phase 220 machine on a 3 phase 220 outlet ? you have common trip breakers, you have all the right wires from the right circuits, no "hot" power on the white one ... . that should be an ok video ....
Also, to further explain the 3 or 4 prong 240v receptacles: 3 wire is obviously 2 hot legs, plus ground for safety. A 4 prong 240v receptacle also includes a neutral wire. The reason for this is to bring both 240 and 120v to an appliance. A good example would be an electric stove or dryer, 240 for the heating elements and 120 for control panels or lighting. The 240v components connect between the 2 120v legs, the 120v portions connect to one leg and the neutral... so the same as a single circuit breaker.
Do u mean 110 and 220
@@christophervickers9685 110/120 is what I remember from years ago- I wasn’t sure when it changed, but google says most US homes were 120 in the 1950’s, and it became the official US standard in 1984. It was originally 110, became 115 in the 1930’s. Interesting how long archaic terms remain in our launguage!
This is fantastic. I am going to do this for my personal shop so I don't have to keep running a cord to the clothes dryer. Makes perfect sense and you're thinking is all good. It wouldn't meet code but it works! Don't let OSHA catch you with this!
I didn't build it ...LOL. and I don't take it on job sites either.... AND I told all the viewers to get advice from a real electrician and be code compliant ... so if you want to use it - do that AFTER you check all this and at your own risk ..... dryer outlet is typically 30 amp though - that is better than 20 amp with as cord like shown in the video .....
Thanks so much for all of your work. I know this will help me in the future
and remember you can always add fuses anywhere . like shut off valves for water 1 here , 1 there , 1 over there... the more the better right?lol
Had a welding union friend in the 90s who did this. Connected his 220 female plug split to two 50' standard extension cords, each having a male 110 plug. He'd run the two male plugs into two 110 house outlets, then be able to run it all outside and weld. Ran those cords outside and welded my vehicle that ws parked on the street. Too cool.
The reason why this trick worked is because of how the house wiring was done - Chicago code. I suspect this is identical in many ways to Louisville code which I worked with in the late '60s as an electricians helper between high school and college. Outside the city, county code allowed using 14-2w/ground to the outlet and the little shorting lug between the upper 'hot' blade and lower 'hot' blade was left in place. This went back to a single pole 15 A breaker. May have also used 12-2w/ground in high load areas back to a 20 A single pole breaker. Reasonable spacing was used between outlets depending on anticipated usage. In the city, due to numerous fires over the years from electrical overloads, the code required outlets to be located no more than 4 feet apart. The wiring was also different. BX armor jacket instead of Romex - Rats! The shorting lug was broken out thus isolating the top 'hot' socket contact from the bottom one. 12-3w/ground was wired back to a 20 A double pole breaker. The two voltage leads were wired to the upper and lower 'hot' blade contacts of the outlet. That's why you break out the shorting lug. This spread high loads as in the kitchen over two circuits instead of one, so even if the owner used cube taps or power strips, the current in the individual wires was cut in half as opposed to a single circuit feeding the outlet out in the county. This results in 220 volts available at every outlet at the current rating of the double pole breaker. The trick enables tapping power from the two 'hot' blades for 220 and tapping the ground and neutral as needed. If you tried this trick out in the county, it wouldn't work since the top and bottom 'hot' blade are both the same voltage. You can determine if this trick will work by either using a volt meter to measure the voltage between the two 'hot' blades of the outlet: 220 - go, 0 -no-go, or removing the cover plate and looking at the hot side of the outlet to see if the shorting lug is still in place. Since most panels are fed with 220, you may find another outlet on the other side of the 220 to make this work in a pinch, but for long term use, just hire a competent electrician to wire a dedicated outlet for your welder and spend your time welding instead of wire monkeying.
This works by plugging one into one room, and the other into another room, as code is that you should not get 240v going from the hot in a room to another hot in the same room. That means you can get only 120 in one room, but 240 from going to a hot in one room to a hot in another room. I did this same thing as a kid many years ago and my parents could not figure out how I did it. This video is correct. That is because you are going between two different hot legs you will get 240v instead of 0v. Also lights are usually 15v, and outlets are 20a. meaning you can get 20a at 240v. Also use 12awg or better wire to do this so your cord does not overheat.
Does the amperage also double when doing this? Example: going from 15 amps and then doubling to 30 amps when using the adaptor?
@@jambam6176 no a/c current doesn't work that way.
Love "backyard knowlage" in we Europe had 220 or 380 in houses nice home you got!
I've watched a couple videos about this, but you do a much better job of explaining everything. Appreciate the video.
Thanks a lot Pete! This will be great conversation to have with my brother in law that is an electrician. I try to come up with oddities for him. This will work well. Ha!
@ Bill Yellowdog Welding: throw my reply to your brother in law, he'll say can't be done or shouldn't be done HAHAHAHAHA yes i am bona fide Electrician / Photovoltaic Technician and carry OSHA card.
If an Electrician said it can't be done pull his license or have him go back to school of course it will work!!
@@davegraf5037 agreed!
He will tell you it can be done, but it is 100% in violation of code and is totally unsafe.
Think about it!
Why is your electric cook stove, or your electric dryer not ran that way?
Why does his welder manufacturer, not sell such a cable?
@@coypatton3160 i don't see how it could be unsafe. could POSSIBLY mess up your equipment if done incorrectly I suppose... I'd say the reason they dont sell them commercially is 2 reasons combined: 1. What % of consumers do you think could actually identify whether or not two 110v outlets are on the same leg? And 2. It's not really all that practical to try and make this your main method for getting 220v, it's more like an emergency backup.
That said, I'm sure SOMEBODY out there is selling these custom cables
Wow Pete this really good. I won't share some of my wiring technologies, I have some 220 10amp with 50 amp plugs just so I can power them. Now I have a dedicated 220 20 amp with a ground fault and I converted a 10 guage 120 extension cord when I need to get outside. As I said earlier this was really good.😃J
To do this. U must be on 2 different phases and only use the 2 hots kinda tricky and time consuming.
I would recommend u use the dryer or stove outlet. Much easier faster safer
Yes I am master electrician and welder
They aren't different phases. Just oposite sides of a split phase.
What if you don't have a long enough cord to reach the dryer plug in the laundry room from the garage? I have a wall plug adapter and it doesn't power it
North american wiring makes more sense when you realize that your panel is 240v, but adapted to 120v when a single leg is connected to a neutral. The two legs have 240v potential, A single leg to neutral has a 120v potential. And because it's AC, or Alternating current, there is no + or -.
To your viewers. As an electrical engineer working for electrical contractors for many years, yes this will work for his situation. But you should not do this. It violates all safety standards, meaning it is dangerous. Dangers are fire and your life. Absolutely do not do this and expect to use it numerous times. As I teach others, " Just because you can do something, doesn't mean you can do something". So, install 240 volt outlets when needed, or have them installed. Your house and your life are worth more. Please be safe and live longer.
Indeed, like robbing a bank. Sounded good at the time, BUT ...
Adam A I am at a loss for what you are trying to say in the first part. My comment was nothing to do with wire size being different for voltages. My comment was life safety. Please explain your comment on max current being higher with shorter runs of wire. That is interesting.
As far as the comment about electricians, it is an ignorant comment and no comment is needed from me.
Adam A It is obvious you have very very limited knowledge of how electricity works and how to make its use as safe as possible.
As far as communism, just guessing that you lean to the right and think that the left is on the side toward communism.
Please read the definitions attached direct from dictionaries. Please note whether communism is right or left in the definitions.
Fascism (/ˈfæʃɪzəm/) is a form of far-right, authoritarian ultranationalism characterized by dictatorial power, forcible suppression of opposition, and strong regimentation of society and of the economy which came to prominence in early 20th-century Europe
National Socialism (German: Nationalsozialismus), more commonly known as Nazism (/ˈnɑːtsiɪzəm, ˈnæt-/),[1] is the ideologyand practices associated with the Nazi Party-officially the National Socialist German Workers' Party (Nationalsozialistische Deutsche Arbeiterpartei or NSDAP)-in Nazi Germany, and of other far-right groups with similar ideas and aims.
Enjoy your life!
Adam A My point was life safety. You are only talking about fires for some reason.
Here are possible causes of fires from electricity.
1. Conductors installed that are too small for the overcurrent protection and overheating.
2. Correctly sized conductors for the overcurrent protection, but placed in a situation that cause a fire.
2-a. A cord on an appliance that is covered by something like a throw rug or mat.
2-b. Too many conductors installed in a conduit.
2-c. A conductor gets damaged and starts arcing, but not with enough amps to cause overcurrent.
2-d. Drilling into a cable and causing an arc blast which can cause fire.
3. Voltage drop not accounted for in the conductor length, can cause voltage drop in a motor circuit and cause a motor to burn.
Life Safety issue
1. What is plugged into this device trips a breaker can be assumed by unknowing people to be completely turned off. Possibility for getting shocked is greatly increased. Possible death.
2. Putting a receptacle that is rated higher than the overcurrent device can allow someone to plug in an appliance that draws too much current will trip the breaker. With continued use, this can damage the breaker and cause it to not trip at some later date when the circuit is overloaded.
I hope this satisfies your need.
Adam A You are not impressing me in any way.
That can be done if the two 120v sockets are on different phases. You have to plug the two 120v plugs onto different phases.
And they usually r not in the same room
Just to be clear, a house hold panel only has one 240v phase, made up of 2 legs. The common conception is that we get 120v service that can be doubled when we need 240v, but it's actually the other way around.
Good video. Not safe as you said but it works in a pinch and that’s how many things get done. Risk is everywhere.
In a pinch yes but you must be careful that you know what is going on. I was considering this for my everlast welder if I had to do some offsite welding with my everlast and didn't have access to 220v.
Yep. The utility pole transformer output is 230v with a center tap.
Yep. There's all kinds of handy temporary work-arounds if one is familiar with the basics of residential power delivery.
The caveat being, it can be highly dangerous if one does not know *exactly* what they're doing -- suicide cables are named aptly.
Proceed with an extreme level of caution. Injuring yourself or another with such measures may expose one to civil and/or criminal penalties.
But, as with all things, being able to dangle one's toes over the line occasionally helps get difficult projects to completion.
I will just add a final statement, all 220v applications are different, and some welders use a 120v (hot neutral) within the welder to drive motors within the machine. Some older larger welders even have 120v plugs on the outside for grinders, lights,etc.
Just because your application and your welder does not use a 120v(hot neutral) within the internal wiring, you can not generalize your setup for all welders. I like you and I think this thread is a thought provoker for an application to enable 220v wiring.
Bernadeta K
>>I will just add a final statement, all 220v applications are different,> I like you
There is never a hot neutral. If you have a hot neutral it will short and blow a breaker.
JIMMY TATE ..... I never meant for anyone to take the term ‘hot neutral’ literally. I was just trying to emphasize
that a neutral (as apposed to a ground) will carry some current when there is a load downstream. It was just a play on words.
Bernadeta, I'm not picking on you, just trying curb the dissemination of inaccurate information. In cases such as you described the plug on the welder should be a 4 prong plug. It is a requirement of the NEC to have a separate safety ground.
ZILA, There is no place in your connection for a neutral. The practice of grounding equipment through a neutral was a cost/material saving measure of days gone by and is no longer allowed.
I learn this working at fairs we called it carny plugs
see - it works
Can probably be done if you find 2 outlets on separate poles in the breaker box.
There are many ways to skin a cat.
1st.) making a 240 volt from the main box.
2nd.) make an extension cord, using two outlets, that are on separate phases, multimeter will read 240 volts.
3rd.) other option is AT YOUR OWN RISK. it involves connecting at the transformer. (that's if your meter hasn't been hooked up) you've been warned.
Gives Video a Thumbs UP. i Like, OLE!
Before even watching the video I can say yes it can work but you need to make sure that you use 2 110 outlets on 2 different breakers. Temp only should be ok
Tom Hudson exactly
Nop. Use two breakers of the same panel belonging to different phase each.
you can put the neutral wire on a breaker beside the corresponding hot wire (from a 115v plug) to get 220-250V... as long as the breakers match the wire gage and the plugs are made of ceramic not plastic.
I made something similar for use on my welder. I made up a 10ft 10ga cord with two junction boxes, one has the 220v plug for my welder the other has 4x 110v plugs for other power tools or lights. On the other end I'm using L14-30 generator plugs so i can use this cable on a generator if i need to also any extension cables have the L14-30 plugs. The L14-30 plugs are $25-60 in stores but are around $10 on ebay if anyone wants to know.
n124lp. - Nuetrals and grounds should never be substatuted for safety reasons. If you run a circuit to a 220v appliance, welder, or motor, you have be familiar with the wiring diagram inside that machine. There are 220v applications (some motors) that will not have a 120v (single hot leg/neutral) within the internals, In this case neutral Should not be used, just wire the plug with L1 and L2 and ground. The ground is not carrying current but is just for safety. In Zela’s wiring, his grounds are carrying current due to the internal 120v applications in the welder, so a neutral is needed to complete that circuit. In this case the 3rd prong on the plug is a current carrying neutral (NOT a ground) For safety these applications should either have a 4 prong plug or A 3 prong plug with a extra grounding wire for the case of the welder. If you are working by yourself in a temporary situation, and you understand what I am saying, go for it. But if these wiring remain in place, you could kill someone.
Bernadeta K
>>In Zela’s wiring, his grounds are carrying current due to the internal 120v applications in the welder, so a neutral is needed to complete that circuit.> In this case the 3rd prong on the plug is a current carrying neutral (NOT a ground)> For safety these applications should either have a 4 prong plug or A 3 prong plug with a extra grounding wire for the case of the welder. If you are working by yourself in a temporary situation, and you understand what I am saying, go for it. But if these wiring remain in place, you could kill someone.
Bernadeta, OK, You do seem to have some of it, but unless I misunderstand, ZILA's welder does not use any 110v. And if it did, then he still should not wire his current plug with a neutral, but rather change to a L14-30 plug and receptacle.
i bought an esab rebel that came with a 220 plug (the style that looks like a giant 110 plug). i had to make an adapter to plug into my engine drive that has 4 prongs, 3 parallel to each other and a round one. i was told by an electrician to wire the red and black to the two parallels on the female plug, the white to the round, and tape off the green. given this vid, you did the same thing but used the green and eliminated the white. im not saying you or him is wrong, but one of you has to be... right??
Sometimes, as in your case, the electrician is wrong... although both will work. Neutral wire is not used in a 240V supply. Check out the NEMA specifications and see if you can find a receptacle that has a round neutral (white). The round is for Ground wire.
so pull the adapter back apart, put the ground to the round plug, and disregard the white... right??
You can also double tap a 220 and run another outlet. Just don't run it if the other appliance is being used.
Daniel Gagne you can do that, provided that there is a 220 outlet in the house somewhere....
I have seen places with natural gas range, natural gas dryer, natural gas hot water heater and only window ac .... not a 220 hook up in the entire house ....
I actually did this when I was much younger. I was living in an old house trailer that didn’t have any 220 circuits in the main panel. I got a stacked washer-dryer combo that was run off a 220 plug. After some head scratching I came up with this system so I could use it. Did it for a couple of years that way. The first time I used it, I did keep an eagle eye on it and kept feeling the wires to make sure nothing overheated, but it never did.
Get you one them "UGLY's" pocket reference books.
Thank you very much for this video brother 🙏
No worries
Like others said this is that dangerous 2 110v circuits from both phases wired together to make 220v. Problem is the hz is 60 not 50 and the amperage is 15/15 or 20/20 not 30 total so if one breaker pops the other line is still live at the join. That can kill you, and also the wiring is not rated for the potential amps draw so fire is easily possible.
50hz or 60hz - most modern welding machines don't care ....
Some commercial power washers work with two separate 120V outlets as well.
I didn't even know that
Great vid!!! Always learning from guys like you, thanks!
I use all my Welders on NEMA 14-50 now since Generators also use those a lot. But never the less I bet this video is very usefull for a bunch of folks..... back to welding ....
Wow, this is impressive. And you did a great job at explaining.
The long story short... you can get 2 different phases 120V each in almost any US-Canada kitchen. Most kitchen have split receptacles here, at least new homes have them....
You get 120V from 1 narrow prong from one receptacle and you get 120V from another narrow prong from another receptacle. If receptacles are on the same 120V wire (the same phase) you get nothing between first and second prongs, but if they are on different wires (connected to different phases) you get 240V between them.
I used this trick a few times when I got stuck with no 240....
a dryer or an electric stove outlet will do the trick and is more than sufficient for any welding job done inside a house
That's totally legit, but mostly if you can plug each 120 plug into separate circuits so its using at least 2 20 amp breakers.
I would sure love to see these houses with 20 amp breakers using 12 awg wiring to 20 amp sockets because they do not exist around me (even in new homes).
Thx for that super information very interesting
Better I think to just run a temporary wire to the nearest panel and connect direct to a two pole breaker rated for the proper amperage.
if you have the skills and the knowledge - that is a good way to do it - i agree !
Your wiring connections will work, but using grounds for neutrals can be dangerous. Neutrals can carry current, so if you mix ground and neutrals down stream from your electrical panel, you energize grounded appliances and subject yourself to shock. The 3rd prong on 220 plugs should be neutral not ground.
I can see where using a neutral for a ground could be a problem, but I don't see how a neutral would come into play in 240v residential applications. The neutral is only needed as the halfway point between the two hot legs, which have 240 volts between them, so that the voltage between either of the hots and the neutral is 120, right?
Current takes the path of least resistance so if you have ground then that's the path, my detached garage has a ground rod and is connected to the panel. Also basically all the new welders use 2 hot and 1 ground.
Sorry Bernadeta, You are misinformed. You should never have a Neutral on a 3 terminal 220 Receptacle. The Ground is there for safety, NOT to carry current.
Nice talking!!
But the welder, still working on 220 volts !!!!
First you are not running the welder on 110 volts. you are running it on 220 volts. Each phase on the gimmicked plug has 110 volts but they are out of phase . The receptacles that you use with the cord are different phases. Know what you are talking about.....
JIMMY well said - so unreality i AM running the welder on 100 volts ! 2 circuits of 110 volts ... even on the same phase (that is why it is called single phase) .... if you touch either one of the hot wires - you are getting zapped with 110 volt "only" and yes - i get it the clever thing is to combine those 2 circuits and make it not work 110 but 22 because although each circuit is 110 only - because they are 180 degree phase shifted they make 220 hot against hot.
now "real 230 volt" is make from 400 volt 3 phase like in all of europa ad most of the rest of the world. you have 33 hot legs each one carries 230 volt ... and all 3 of lose legs are 120 degree offset. now if you touch that 230 volt hot wire you are actually getting zapped with 230 ! not 110 ....
Thanks for watching and you input
Indeed it would be 220/240. But against code. You need a breaker that is going to trip both phases if there is a fault. You also need to be sure both phases are derived from the same source (which is typical in a home).
chas williams like i said. I didn’t build it. A guy who assured me that he was an electrician did. I just used it a hand full of times in the last 10 years to help me out of a jam.
ZILA, Jimmy is correct. You are running the welder on 220V not 110V. You are simply using the 2 - 110v circuits, opposite halves of a Split Phase (not same phase), to provide the connections to the 220V source. The 110V is between either leg and neutral/ground but you are not using the neutral in your welder (you are however electrocuting yourself with 110v if you only touch one leg and ground... but 220V if you touch both legs, same as your "real" voltage in europe) I know you generally understand it, but are not communicating it accurately.
Chas, Against what Code? (rhetorical question.) There is nothing in the code that I have seen that deals with this type of not permanent plug in equipment... unless you try to argue 400-8(1), but that'd be a weak argument. The "need" to have a 2 conductor breaker is for permanent wiring within the structure. Here it is a 'SHOULD' but not violating the code.
Lakeman i get that i am using 220 in reality. The only thing that i am not getting in your comment where the common in welder is coming from???
So we agree that there are 2 hot. And than my welder has a green wire which i was under the impression green is ground ? Especially if that same green wire is connected to the metal outside casing of the welder ! And there is a little ground symbol on the outside casing .... also that 3rd wire is never supposed to carry any current ( unless there is an equipment failure )
I mean literally - that third wire besides that it is green, the ONLY thing that it is connected to in the machine is the metal housing or casing or whatever you want to call it of the machine ...
So it looks like a ground, it acts like a ground ..... and you say its a common ....? What am i missing ?
To all who are commenting and saying two phases, there is only one phase "single phase". If you meant to say two phase conductors instead of hot conductors, then ok. I love comments on electrical videos!! Most are totally wrong.
kevin, you are right - you can clearly see that the transformer only picks up one phase on the pole, it only ties into one of the high voltage lines (not 2 not 3) .... and coming from Europe myself it was very difficult to understand that int eh breaker box ther are not actually 2 or 3 phases but one phase and in inverted phase. it is the same phase all the time on every leg in the box just half the breakers are on the 180 degree inverted phase ... and if you put the phase and the inverted pahse together you get 220 or 240 or whatever you get where you live ... It is "complicated" but not really ...
ZILA Again, there is only one phase. There is no such thing as inverted phase or 180 degrees shift. The only difference is the voltage. They are at exactly the same point in time. The neutral is a conductor connected to the 240 volt coil at half way through the number of windings, therefore half the voltage on both sides of neutral. When you see a sine wave drawn with a horizontal line through it at zero, the length of the line direction is time. Good luck with your channel.
thank you. I will investigate this more ! seems like i have been underinformed all those years
ZILA No problem. Many people have been mis-informed! The problem is they are placing the mis-information on UA-cam and someone is going to get hurt or die.
Thanks for the information
Bravo Zila
First time someone plugs a 110 cord into it they fry their appliance. Don't be cheap, buy the proper 220 outlet.
So how dose this work with my house , my house only has Two wires period coming into my box the third one is taped back to its self, will this work in my case , I don’t have a neutral wire at all my service is one 120 or 124, I only have 112 sockets in my house, 40 amps main 1 breaker, it’s two 20 amp connected together, thanks BigAl California.
You need a step up transformer
Zika, look at all your 220v connections in your house, they will have 3 things in common - an L1 , L2, and Neutral connection. They may or not have a ground. You are misleading people to think that the neutral can be substatuted with a ground in a 3 prong plug. Google it, how to wire a 220v appliance.
Bernadeta K
>>Zika, look at all your 220v connections in your house, they will have 3 things in common - an L1 , L2, and Neutral connection.> They may or not have a ground. You are misleading people to think that the neutral can be substatuted with a ground in a 3 prong plug. Google it, how to wire a 220v appliance.
Sometimes neutral is bonded with ground. Sometimes it isn't. Even if it is bonded, it just feels wrong to treat ground and neutral interchangeably.
I've always assumed (please correct me if I am wrong) that a three prong 240V plug is L1, L2 and ground. Four prong 240V outlets are L1, L2, neutral and ground. And the only ones that you can safely pull 120V out of are the four wire 240V feeds.
Sorry Bernadeta, You are misinformed. You should almost never have a Neutral on a 3 terminal 240V Receptacle (the exceptions being the outdated 10-30 and 10-50 which no longer meet code.) The Ground is, and must be, there for safety, NOT to carry current under normal operation conditions. They may have a Neutral as well (eg. 14-50 Range Outlet) if they must also supply 120V.
ZILA has that part correct. Don't blindly believe everything you read on the internet.
How to Back Feed 230v 1 Leg into you’re breaker box ?
The metal prong on right is the hot!!! The smaller prong is always the hot!!!! Larger is always the neutral!!!
Question- hope someone can help. I have a 15a 110v outlet. I need 240v at 15a. Can I take my neutral from my 15a romex off the neutral bar and put it on a new 15a 110v breaker across the panel on a different phase? Code is irrelevant, i just want it to work. Makes sense to me.
Good info if you need to this once.
The different 220 outlets are for different amperage house hold appliances. This is so you cannot plug an electric range into a dryer outlet which the wiring is only good for half(?) the amperage the stove requires.
Some people have changed the outlet or the plug on a stove and had an electrical fire.
I don't know - in my house the range is 30 amp and the dryer is also.??? but like I said - I AM NOT AN ELECTRICIAN. check with a real electrician and local codes .... be safe - don't burn your house down !
You're exactly right, but in addition, the wiring in the circuit is sized for amount of amperage. Some people change the plug (or just plug in an appliance with large current draw of 120V) *AND* the breaker. It "works", until the wires in your wall catch fire. With all electrical stuff, you have to get everything right; one thing wrong can be catastrophic.
To be technically correct, you can plug a higher amperage device into lower amperage receptacle. either with an adapter or changing the receptacle. The key is that you CANNOT increase the rating of the Breaker. The breaker must protect the lowest rated component in the circuit.
but how do you use it, how does the welder use 2 seperate 120 volt lines i didnt think i got that part
you plug one 110 plug in the living room and the other one in the kitchen or bedroom as long as they are on different legs, and they get wired in a 220 outlet .. and ere you go
@@ZILAwelds no what i mean is how do you use a negitive for a positive in the plug
While this works, its not advisable.
1st, although I'm not a licensed Electrician, I wouldn't think this is leagal.
2nd, this will be lethal if not done correctly.
3rd, I think if there was a short, it would be possible to backfeed and energize an otherwise 110v Circuit.
awesome video
thanks
could have also tied the wight wires to the ground
so using this logic can you run from 2 different 120v plugs on the same leg to make the amp draw per plug go down in 120v? (as long as they are different breakers) to run things like a skillsaw without tripping the breakers?
No and if you could you wouldnt want to. The breakers protect the wiring from overload and prevent fires.
Appears so. Say, 2 20A breakers in parallel you could draw total of 40A theoretically. Reality probably be somewhat less than 40A would blow one of the breakers .
Ok so I'm wanting to run my welder off a small generator but the 220 has a 13amp breaker not big enough, but it has two 110 receptacles both wired on separate legs with separate 13 amp breakers. Doing this I should be able to make it work.
13 amps is 13 amps if you get 13 amps on 110 volt you have 1430 watts at your disposal if you run 13 amps on 220 volt you have 2860 watts at your disposal ... having 2 legs of 110 with 1430 each gives you 2860 ... so no there is no advantage
@@ZILAwelds thanks
The fire marshall frowns on bed room welding...................
This is well explained, just not a great idea. It's really not difficult to run a dedicated 240v line. Or, use the electric dryer plug if it's a temporary situation.
Here in canada I just ran my welder of my dryer outlet.
@ianjsutt 😂😂
@5:56 your showing a 3 prong outlet and stating the bottom prong is ground yet off to the left it states it's non grounding.......
the way how the welding machine requires it to be wired - that bottom prong needs to be a ground as it directly connects to the sheetmetal case of the welder. the welder itself needs 2 hots and a ground. there is no common needed there is nothing that is 110 in the welder. I know its is confusing to me as well - and like o said I am not a real electrician I dont even play one on UA-cam the way how all the operators annular on the welder that I have read read is that there are 2 hots and a ground. I see what you are saying how the outlet itself is labeled contrary to what I say in the video. I dont really know why....
@@ZILAwelds And what did they use before they came up with the ground wire?
zeke112964 the common wire .... and later on they said that that would be “unsafe” as the common wire would carry some residual electrical current .... but yet in the usa the green and the white are connected inside the breaker box 🙄
In most of europe the are separated in the box and the white ( which is blue in europe) is grounded a few miles outside the city where the green ( which is yellow with a green stripe) is grounded multiple times inside and around your house ....
Electricity only makes limited sense to me at times ....🤷♂️
@@ZILAwelds the outlet he shows is as nema 10 50. It has two hots and a nuetral. No equipment ground. They are only allowed for replacement
120 volts and 240 volts are the common residential voltages in the USA. The USA hasn't used 110 and 220 for approx 75 years.
thank you for watching and than you for specifying that. so can i call it 110 volt "nominal" so people know what i am talking about ? although i actually measure in my shop just shy of 118 volt .... ? and 220 nominal? which measure just shy of 236 actual ? most modern inverter machines will run from 208-240 or even 260 (if run on a miller or lincoln engine drive) with no problem ....
Really enjoying your videos and learning a lot. Thank you for doing what you do. Going to grab an HTP Pro Pulse 200 when they become avail thanks you and Chucke.
The voltage measured at the wall for me is 244v. And this is 100% incorrect information. Excluding local variances, standard residential electrical voltages in North America are 120 and 240. You are one Google search away from this information. There is no transition from 240 to 220. And your math isn't even correct. 123 x 2 = 246. If both hot legs of your split phase system are 123 your voltage across both hots mathematically must be 246.
220v is an artifact of a bygone era (the 1940s) and the fact that 220v is the standard across much of Europe.
Even though you are technically correct, 110v/220v, 115v/230v and 120v/240v are all commonly used are understood by most to mean the same thing.
@@lakeman2604 - Yes "commonly used" but it's more than technically correct. If cases where you have to calculate wattage for any reason and similar uses, you need to use the correct nomination -- you might as well get in the habit of using the "technically correct" designation so that you're thinking about it that way. Plus, if you're training an inexperienced person, best to use the technically-correct usage as you're doing so; you never know where that person is going to go in the future and what knowledge he/she may need.
It's a very small thing, but there is at least some use in being technically correct.
it works but not NEC
Say big dog I've been doing that for years man I run a 220 Mig mines Lincoln I've only been in one residence why couldn't find 220 volt new construction inspector came in and made correct an unbalanced system anyway I got 2 100 foot extension cords I plug in in an adapter box at the welding machine
Your answer, no not legal. It works but do I recommend? No comment. Have I done it? Yes. Not a lawyer but I highly doubt anyone will be fined for it but if you burn the house down it won't be covered
My question is if you know some shiit and take you 20 year to figured out
Why not call your self an electrician
But 20 amp 240v isnt very useful. I cant think of anything
Ryan the “not very useful” is all depending on what machine you want to run on that cuircuit ....
1st of all its about double as useful as 110/120 volt on a 20 amp circuit
2nd if you want to run a miller 252 wide open that pulls 50amps from the wall of course its useless
3rd if you have a modern ( maybe even European build ) inverter machine .... things look different
4th the standard in most of europe is 230 volt 16 amp Now there are some 20amp circuits but those are far and few between
4th they actually make 180 amp machine recently even 200 amp machines ( tig and some mig mostly) that - believe it or not will run on this power
Ryan besides to weld some hand railing or bed frame or a ss kitchen sink or a metal table .... how much power are you really drawing ?
@@ZILAwelds A mig 200a and lower will have a 120 option. Or at least Miller and lincoln.
It still is a fun build if you need it for a project.
I think I know how he did it. You sure have a confusing way of explaining it. Modern fuse panels have everything split up and hot leads are hooked to one hot 110 volt line or the other. To get 220 volts you have to use both 110 volt hot lines.
To get 220 volts the way he was doing it he had to connect to a 110 volt hot side that is hooked say to the left side of the box ( example : bedroom is hooked to left side hot line ) and then get one that is hooked to the right side 110 volt hot line ( example: bathroom outlet is hooked to the right side 110 volt hot line) and manage to connect to both 110 volt lines and get 220 volts.
This might even work except you would probably have to plug one of your cords into an apartment way down the hall to get a connection to the opposite side of the fuse panel than your apartment is connected to.
220 higher voltage would take less current so you might get enough through those little wires all that distance to weld very low. Probably pop the breakers every 20 seconds though.
The internet is a tremendous thing. I explain things like this to my sons how much trouble I went through just to find out information such as this back in the 70s. I had the idea how it might work but wanted to clarify. I could not get the info from anyone. Any electricians I worked with acted like I wanted the secret location to their diamond mine. I finally found a diagram in a book in a store.
Now you can go online and find how just about anything works
a left and a right are on the same leg, they need to bee next to each other on the same side for example. - they need to be on different legs
You shouldn't be telling people about the 22110 trick because it's not legal it's not allowed by code no inspector would allow it because a 220 has to be joined together so if one of the two phases trips the whole thing goes what's your doing is literally a hazard
OK... 1. Change your name as your not living up to it!
2. he said he isn't an electrician and that it physically works NOT that it meets code ,that you should do this or even my favorite , HAY KIDS, try this at home!!!
3. basic physics , take 110v source to pole A . apply sepereate 110v source to pole B add a ground or nutral and you have 220v . not talking hazards or codes just basic math.
4. if we only teach people what is legal , not possible , our world would look like africa 100 years ago if not 1000.
5. your right that no code enforcer would approve.
6. however , like having a kid around a camp fire I wouldn't leave it unattended. and have safty material handy.
6.5. shit not going to make 10. ( white out ? we don't need no stinkin white out. we have backspace:)
7. you were not concise on the " join together" part. From what I gather breaker 1 ( pole A) has a fuse , leaving breaker 2 ( pole B ) hot causing a fire or electrocution . Now again not saying the whole things not hazardous. But a breaker by definition is a fuse and will trip (shut off ) with excesive amps or other problems . So both pole A and pole B have separate fuses and should... SHOULD, blow both fuses if over amped or grounded , crossed ext...
8. TRICK. this is not a trick it's a jerry rig or work around as a favorite quote says
" A trick is what a prostitute does for money".
9. im a survivalist , say your power ( main power) goes out , you have your 110v generator and your only heat source is 220v. what do you do? or your wet clothes and no fire but a 220v dryer. You can't do shit without knowledge.
10. What would you say if I told you , you could power a small house with a single car alternator ; which you can...or charge you phone with a lemon ( the more the merrier ) also possible. phew made it to 10
Be careful with what you do .
Where do you live! 110 and 220 volts? 120 V and 240 V is normal.
whats all reference to 110v usa 120v since edison dc days
120V is the modern terminology. This voltage reference (and 240V) should be used. Mostly it is simple terminology but often a person needs to calculate wattage to get an accurate measure of power draw; if you use "110" instead of "120" in those calculations, your wattage calculations will be off by almost 10%; this could mean simple failure, fire, or electrocution.
Everyone, please get in the habit of using "120V" and "240V". It's not a big thing -- until it makes a difference and then it IS a big thing.
Even though you are technically correct, 110v/220v, 115v/230v and 120v/240v are all commonly used are understood by most to mean the same thing. Anyone dealing with calculations where it will make a significant difference will know. For everyone else it just doesn’t really matter.
Can You Do Something Like This For 3-Phase?
No you have to get a rotary phase converter. In residential electricity there are typically only two poles available so that is single phase 240 Max. You have to have a third line coming in from the street to have three phase you can plug into without converting.
now if you mean hooking a single phase machine into a 3 phase outlet ?? than yes - that video is coming too ! give me a couple weeks .....
if you mean hooking a 3 phase machine into single phase at your house? than no. - sorry. Look up phase converters (on youtube) there is a few guys who do things like that - BUT I am not an electrician and I don't know enough about it so I stay out of it ....
125 amps 1/2 inch gap 😲
absolutely ! and thank you for watching that other video too
I use the the quick 220. It keeps things legal and has a circuit breaker that trips if something goes wrong.
Example onetime at a commercial building I made 480 instead of 220 Volts and the it tripped the breaker.
I would defiantly invest in the quick 220 to keep things safe and legal.
www.quick220.com/
that is a great set up !
Thanks! Could you recommend stick welder only for occasional use? Looking to buy something less than 1000 USD but I want it to work on both 50 & 60 Hertz.
i dont have first hand experience with a lot of "entry-level" sticks welders ... the cheapest i own is over $1000 ... typically for 7018 rods if you are looking at an asian import the overcasts don't do a bad job .... (stay clear of lotus and most of the harbor freight stuff ... miller master 160 is $949 but i am not sure that is is worth the investment - i only welded a few rods with it like 2 years ago .... i never used a lincoln Invertec® V155-S ...... like i said - i DONT have a lot of experiment with those machines and i really hate to tell people to buy something that i didnt use and test myself ... i dont recommend things by brand name - or model especially if i have no experience with hem or dont know if or how they hold up ... so sorry if i can not help you too much - but go to your local welding guy and ask them to test a machine, ron a few rods - or go to an online seller who offers a 30 or 90 day money back guarantee and try the machine out - go online on welding forums and see what others have to say who own this kind of machine ... that is the best advice i can give you.
SPEC SHEETS only tell you part of the truth ! there is a thing "arc dynamic" how the machine feels when you weld with it and how the rods "run" and how the bead lays down ... that is something that no spec sheet can capture - that is something you have to experience !!!! and THAT is the tough part ....
for example the HTP inverarc ($1499 one their website $1195 at fab tech last november in chicago) I own that machine - and the arc dynamic and the way who it welds - it is right on par with my $15000 lincoln vantage 400 !!! of course it is not as powerful and it can not wire weld (not even with a suitcase and it does not have a diesel engine..... BUT the arc quality and arc dynamic are most definitely in the same class !!! but i know it is out of your price range so i use it there to show you the point of spec sheets only tell part of the truth.
Thank you for the info. Will do some more research and save up. I want to buy once and not twice.
I am sad that person like you would go down this slippery slope gerry rigging power sources advice on UA-cam , yes , similar thing happened to me at my place of employment but i would personnel avoid directly advertising it.
maybe you will be more happy with my single 3 phase video ... what do you think about 100% legal adapter plugs to run a single phase 220 machine on a 3 phase 220 outlet ? you have common trip breakers, you have all the right wires from the right circuits, no "hot" power on the white one ... . that should be an ok video ....