Saw all 4 videos ready to replace my cracked radiator I just saw dripping will follow all your steps n your right I been a Chevy Sense kid now in my 50s got a 2017 sport they look better a sound awesome thanks for the videos grt details hi from buckeye AZ
Same here we like the newer Dodges as well. The radiators leaking on the hot side is a common issue for these trucks. Glad the video helped you out. Hi from Spokane WA. :) /K&K
EFI has changed the way engines warm up and run cold... Boy you said that right. Thanks for the video 👍 I was feeling kind of lost needing to change my coolant.. My overflow tank is showing mud on the stick..ouch, no bueno 🐒
We use a code scanner that reads live data. In this video we are using a Bosch ProGrade OBDII scan tool. Amazon Link below www.amazon.com/stores/page/5D47E8A2-8A35-4249-8E6C-960F4D9EB833 /K&K
Is the Mopar coolant the only coolant you advise for the dodge ram? I'm concerned about which to buy as I used to just grab any kind when adding to my other vehicles. I'm glad you taught me this valuable lesson.
These Hemi trucks you don't want to mix coolants. Yes they have mix with any color coolants out there and they will get you by, what they don't tell you is when you mix coolants overtime it will clog up your cooling system, eat seals up, and degrade many cooling system parts. If you have pink come out put pink back in. Car quest and Dodge dealerships sell Mopar coolant P/N MS-9769 SKU# 68048953AC. /K&K
I couldn't find any Mopar coolant. Is the Valvoline zerex g05 HOAT yellow stuff safe to use? Im here cause I had to replace a thermostat for the first time. I've watched all four videos. Thanks by the way.
Go to the dealership, Amazon, or Car quest. Only use pink HOAT, IF you mix colors and it will cause you issues down the road. Mixing coolants will eat your seals up and clog your cooling system up with these newer nodular engines. It may be a pain to find but its not worth the repair bills to do otherwise. /K&K
I bought a broke down dodge ram 1500 since that's all I could afford, and they thought the engine had a blown head gasket but it was starting right up just throws a high temp right away, checked and it was out of coolant. I'm just starting to try to figure out what's really wrong with it. I'm going to start with this series you made and replacing the thermostat and checking the reservoir and radiator hoses... I'm going to clean up the engine with degreaser and watch for leaks. After this I'll go from whatever results I see. What do you think? Any advise for me? Thank you so much and God bless your business abundantly!
We get these trucks in that are out of coolant from time to time. Start with the basics first, if its out of coolant you have a leak somewhere. Water pump, hoses, heater core, and radiators are the most common issue for coolant loss. You have to start by filling the cooling system up and get it under pressure to find the leak. We will fill up the cooling system, bleed it as shown in this series and place cardboard under the engine so we can see what hits the ground and where. Normally done at night we will use a bright flash light and start looking for leaks. Pink coolant that leaks out will leave a white reside where it evaporates out. These engine don't eat head gaskets unless its been severely overheated a few time. Follow these steps I have laid out for you and let me know what you find. I would love to know where your leak is. God bless my friend! /K&K
I just popped the 128 code on my 2010 5.7. Looking at thermos, I could only find a performance one that opens at 180F. Should I skip over and just go with the 203F? For bleeding. My local military base does coolant flushes. They have a machine that does it. Could I skip the bleeding process if I get them to do a coolant flush right after changing the thermo and hoses?
You open the cooling system up it must be bleed or it will overheat unless that military base is right next door. You will regret running a 180f unless you live in a desert and never need heat. Even a 203F where I live the engine runs 186F-197F. At 180f the engine will be running too cold and you see a lowered MPG. /K&K
The base has stalls they rent out so you can do the work there. I can go do the work and have them do the bleed without having to leave the stall. I'll grab the 203F, thank you! @@KNKRNR
@@KNKRNR Thanks for these tutorials. Just did an ops check run and Hemrietta is running great! 138 code cleared itself and she was her normal self again. Showed the kids how to do it and explained the basics of cooling system as well.
This fill was 3.5 gallons, but we also changed the reserve tank and all hoses. If you just changed the thermostat and nothing else 2 gallons seems about right. /K&K
I just got a code for the thermostat on the same truck, can this project wait a few days until the weekend when I can work on this? I’m not noticing it running any different than usual.
Yes it can wait, it will just use for gas as the computer tries to warm up the engine. If you are in a cold climate you can also use some cardboard to block airflow in the radiator to keep the coolant temperature higher. Why the OEM have that code is if it runs too cold the catalytic converters take a beating due to running a bit richer. /K&K
@@enwardsaier6435 Our dealership shows 203F is the factory but if you can find 195F would be fine as well. The computer needs to see 180F before 20 minutes to avoid the PO128 code. /K&K
Wow!! I never heard such detailed explanation of why not to mix coolants and so much more! Thank you!!
Great series! I watched all 4 parts. Very thorough guys. Thank you !
Saw all 4 videos ready to replace my cracked radiator I just saw dripping will follow all your steps n your right I been a Chevy Sense kid now in my 50s got a 2017 sport they look better a sound awesome thanks for the videos grt details hi from buckeye AZ
Same here we like the newer Dodges as well. The radiators leaking on the hot side is a common issue for these trucks. Glad the video helped you out. Hi from Spokane WA. :)
/K&K
A trick I use to detect fluid leaks is with a black light flashlight. At night works well. It will light them leaks right up and make them glow.
EFI has changed the way engines warm up and run cold... Boy you said that right. Thanks for the video 👍 I was feeling kind of lost needing to change my coolant.. My overflow tank is showing mud on the stick..ouch, no bueno 🐒
Chocolate milk is oil in coolant or coolant in oil
Could you explain where and how you connected the temp sensors? 🤔💯😀👍❣️
We use a code scanner that reads live data. In this video we are using a Bosch ProGrade OBDII scan tool. Amazon Link below
www.amazon.com/stores/page/5D47E8A2-8A35-4249-8E6C-960F4D9EB833
/K&K
Is the Mopar coolant the only coolant you advise for the dodge ram? I'm concerned about which to buy as I used to just grab any kind when adding to my other vehicles. I'm glad you taught me this valuable lesson.
These Hemi trucks you don't want to mix coolants. Yes they have mix with any color coolants out there and they will get you by, what they don't tell you is when you mix coolants overtime it will clog up your cooling system, eat seals up, and degrade many cooling system parts. If you have pink come out put pink back in. Car quest and Dodge dealerships sell Mopar coolant P/N MS-9769 SKU# 68048953AC.
/K&K
I couldn't find any Mopar coolant. Is the Valvoline zerex g05 HOAT yellow stuff safe to use? Im here cause I had to replace a thermostat for the first time. I've watched all four videos. Thanks by the way.
Go to the dealership, Amazon, or Car quest. Only use pink HOAT, IF you mix colors and it will cause you issues down the road. Mixing coolants will eat your seals up and clog your cooling system up with these newer nodular engines. It may be a pain to find but its not worth the repair bills to do otherwise.
/K&K
I bought a broke down dodge ram 1500 since that's all I could afford, and they thought the engine had a blown head gasket but it was starting right up just throws a high temp right away, checked and it was out of coolant. I'm just starting to try to figure out what's really wrong with it. I'm going to start with this series you made and replacing the thermostat and checking the reservoir and radiator hoses...
I'm going to clean up the engine with degreaser and watch for leaks.
After this I'll go from whatever results I see.
What do you think?
Any advise for me?
Thank you so much and God bless your business abundantly!
We get these trucks in that are out of coolant from time to time. Start with the basics first, if its out of coolant you have a leak somewhere. Water pump, hoses, heater core, and radiators are the most common issue for coolant loss. You have to start by filling the cooling system up and get it under pressure to find the leak. We will fill up the cooling system, bleed it as shown in this series and place cardboard under the engine so we can see what hits the ground and where. Normally done at night we will use a bright flash light and start looking for leaks. Pink coolant that leaks out will leave a white reside where it evaporates out. These engine don't eat head gaskets unless its been severely overheated a few time. Follow these steps I have laid out for you and let me know what you find. I would love to know where your leak is.
God bless my friend!
/K&K
How did you have the multimeters connected? What were the probe ends connected to to measure the heater core and radiator temps? Thank you.
They are called K type Thermocouple for most higher end multi meters.
/K&K
I just popped the 128 code on my 2010 5.7. Looking at thermos, I could only find a performance one that opens at 180F. Should I skip over and just go with the 203F? For bleeding. My local military base does coolant flushes. They have a machine that does it. Could I skip the bleeding process if I get them to do a coolant flush right after changing the thermo and hoses?
You open the cooling system up it must be bleed or it will overheat unless that military base is right next door. You will regret running a 180f unless you live in a desert and never need heat. Even a 203F where I live the engine runs 186F-197F. At 180f the engine will be running too cold and you see a lowered MPG.
/K&K
The base has stalls they rent out so you can do the work there. I can go do the work and have them do the bleed without having to leave the stall. I'll grab the 203F, thank you!
@@KNKRNR
@@KNKRNR Thanks for these tutorials. Just did an ops check run and Hemrietta is running great! 138 code cleared itself and she was her normal self again. Showed the kids how to do it and explained the basics of cooling system as well.
How many gallons did you use? I recently changed my thermostat and I already used 2 gallons. I drove it over 200 miles right after I changed it
This fill was 3.5 gallons, but we also changed the reserve tank and all hoses. If you just changed the thermostat and nothing else 2 gallons seems about right.
/K&K
What if you parked on an incline so the radiator end could be elevated higher, could this help the air move to the top just by gravity?
It would help a little bit. The problem is air stays trapped between the heater core and the cylinder heads until the water pump turns.
/K&K
Why not just open the bleeder valve by the thermostat?
This! It's what it's for!
I just got a code for the thermostat on the same truck, can this project wait a few days until the weekend when I can work on this? I’m not noticing it running any different than usual.
Yes it can wait, it will just use for gas as the computer tries to warm up the engine. If you are in a cold climate you can also use some cardboard to block airflow in the radiator to keep the coolant temperature higher. Why the OEM have that code is if it runs too cold the catalytic converters take a beating due to running a bit richer.
/K&K
@@KNKRNR sounds good thank you!
@@KNKRNRthe parts lady at the dealer said I have to have a 195 degree thermostat for my vehicle. Is that correct or can I use one close to 195?
@@enwardsaier6435 Our dealership shows 203F is the factory but if you can find 195F would be fine as well. The computer needs to see 180F before 20 minutes to avoid the PO128 code.
/K&K