The crank pulley is the big pulley that is connected to the crank shaft and drives all of the belts. Since it is connected to the crank shaft, it's position is directly synced with the position of the pistons in the cylinders, and to the position of the valves.
Adjusting the valve lash would definitively be worthwhile at that mileage. And it would be a lot less drastic. I was getting a lot of tapping at idle. After adjusting the valve lash, it quieted down quite a bit.
When you have it at top dead center, I do believe you can adjust cylinder number 1 and 3. Also, when it is rotated 180 degrees, cylinder number 2 and 4 are loose. You can adjust two cylinders at a time.
Some older 4 cylinder motors with 8V or 16V you can adjust 2 cylinders at a time, but, but, Honda and some other 16V engineers have the cams set for a different geometry that requires individual cylinder attention (and some even different rotation for exhaust vs. intake on the same cylinder OMG). So do not guess with some of the modern designs or you will have some valves too tight and that is death.
Oh and a 1/2" ratchet wrench with some extensions and a 17mm socket to rotate the crank. You can pick up a bunch of these tools cheap at a place like Harbor Freight. Though you might want to pickup a better quality torque wrench elsewhere...
Which tools? In this video I use a 10mm metric box end wrench, and a screw driver, a torque wrench, with 10mm socket, and a feeler gauge. All pretty basic stuff. The torque wrench is the most expensive tool at about $50 on sale at Sears.
I can't adjust the screw on the exhaust side of valve 4. It is stuck in the thread. What do you recommend? Use heat?..I decided to put the valve cover on ..Car starts, sounds kinda pingy, I'm thinking its the rocker arm that wouldnt adjust go.
If you want to get this as accurate as possible and get exactly top dead center as accurate to the ten thousandths, then use a dial indicator and place at the top of each valve at TDC.
If you put your car in 5th gear, you can just move the car inches at a time to turn the engine to line up the valves. You can go back and forth so you don't have to push your car down the block....:^)
Zed T.T. you can find the clearance values on a sticker under your hood as pointed out at 4:35 in the video. The values for your engine might be different than mine.
That might be the valves. but not sure. Valve ticking is usually more nonstop. You can always open it up and check the valve lash and see if that is where the sound is coming from.
+crysis860 So you only heard ticking noise during acceleration? I have the same and also suspected exhaust leak as I can smell exhaust fumes and gas around the hood when car is idling cold during winter but I can't hear any strange idling noises until engine warms up. Where was it leaking from btw.? When engine warms up it develops annoying "tapping" noise on idle and I'm not sure if it's the valvetrain or same exhaust leak (hole expands with metal or something), source of these noises appear to be difficult to locate but I think it's coming from the valves. The colder it gets outside the noisier that tapping is up to a point that it sounds like old diesel engine. But I guess it could need valve adjustment too as I think it has never been done.
Unless previous mechanic adjusted valves wrong, how can valve clearances become too tight over time? It would mean that valves can burn if clearances are not adjusted periodically? I'd imagine that as parts wear out clearances can only get more loose and that causes tapping noises etc.
I'm going to have my 1998 Honda Civic LX looked at this week. It has a light ticking sound which I'm almost certain is due to loose valves. I'd rather not do this adjustment myself. I don't want to damage the valves nor the engine. How much should I expect for a shop to do this? Thanks for the detailed video!
Correct me if I'm wrong but the firing sequence should be exhaust #1 intake #1 then exhaust #3 intake #2 then exhaust #2 intake #3 then exhaust #4 intake#4. I have a 00 honda civic ex thanks.
great video, only question i have is does the gunsight point line up at the same place for cylinder 1& 4? Im assuming so...You have to turn the engine block two full times in total to adjust all valves correct??
Honda keep a history of the engine. It makes adjustments to the timing, air/fuel mixture etc. It makes small adjustments over time as conditions change. After you make adjustments to the valve lash, the engine will still be running with the old characteristics of the engine. It will take time to learn the new characteristics of the engine. Resetting the ECU speeds up that process.
How do you know if you did this wrong? I feel like the engine sounds different now. Almost like there is a air leak, but all the hoses are connected correctly. I don't have any check engine light, and there is not vibration outside of normal, but I still hear a slight clicking as though I didn't do it quite right on cylinder 1 or 2. But the difference in engine sound is quite a bit to me, and I'm concerned I didn't do this correctly.
Hi! I'm adjusting my valves....when doing cylinder #1 exhaust and intake are loose....I notice exhaust #3 cylinder is loose and intake #2 cylinder is loose as well....is this normal or what can I do to fix. Thank you very much!
That's normal. That is how timing works on these engines. They are all in different points in the sequence of letting gas/air in, combusting, then letting the exhaust back out.
I still have a bad tick after setting intake/exhaust to .007 on a d16a6. According to spec .007 should cover intake and exhaust. What would cause me to have to tighten MORE than spec (without compressing valve spring) ?
Turning the crankshaft the wrong direction will cause mechanical lash of the timing belt and camshaft to occur in the wrong direction, which causes crankshaft position to be a poor indicator of camshaft position. Also, it's never a good idea to reverse the wear direction of the rocker arm followers and cam lobes, and may cause some small surface damage. When tensioning the timing belt it is essential to turn the crankshaft counterclockwise so that the tensioning mechanism will work.
Question after you done with the valves did you need to put back the engine like how it was before i meant the crankshaft like if you done with cylinder 2 the last one you don’t need to do anything else just clean and put everything back together?!
RJ The Bike Guy oh ok I’m willing to do my honda odyssey 2001 its running rough low idle only on cold keep stalling on me the first 5 min after from cold start on stop signs or traffic lights 🚦 it just like it can’t hold the idle on stop i’ve done a lot replace map sensor tps clean and ending up getting a new iac valve clean tb a lot and still but it now only stall like twice i notice that the temperature gauge its just barely reach 1/4 only and the heat its not hotter like it was probably the thermostat its stuck open a little bit
So let me get this straight, when adjusting the valves on a civic, the lifters/rockers need to be a little tight on the feeler gauge, right? Not loose?
Nice video man . I had one question when ur done adjusting the last valves do u need to put it back to tdc or can u leave it on cylinder 2 and start the car that way. Any info would be great going to do this soon :)
227 miles, or 227,000 miles? If it only has 227, take it back to the dealer. If it has 227,000 miles, doing some of the stuff in my videos might help. You mention it making noises in the comment on another video. It depends on the noises. I don't know what problems your engine has. It could be something as simple as a tune up, or could be about ready to self destruct.
RJ The Bike Guy thank you fo r your response. I ended up buying one off of eBay. It's a whole set of mm gauges. I was also wondering what does the plus and minus mean on lash specs foir honda civic. And the intake lash is 0.2 +- 0.02mm and the 0.02mm on my gauges is paper thin if not thinner. Is that the correct one?
Jacob Cassidy, 0.20mm +/- 0.02mm = low 0.18mm to high gap of 0.22mm 0.25mm +/- 0.02mm = low 0.23mm to high gap of 0.27mm Large Number is Valves from the front of engine (Bumper) Small Number is Valves from the back (Windshield) So to recap: Any sizes from 0.23mm to 0.27mm feeler gauge would work Any sizes, 0.18mm to 0.22mm for the back will work. My daughter and I don't like to break our nails or get burn. Do this only when the engine is cold, so don't park the car in the sun. If engine is warm, don't even try this.
It's been brought up a couple of times but I didn't see any answers for, some sources, including the Honda Service Manual, say to turn the crank 90 deg. to get to cyl. #3, another 90 deg for #4 and then another 90 deg for #2 for a total of 1 360 deg revolution, where as this method calls for 2 complete revolutions. Which one is right?
Go back check your sources more closely. They say to turn the CAM pulley 90 degrees. When you turn the crank pulley 180 degrees, the cam pulley turns 90 degrees.
+Gary Benites There are two ways in adjusting valve clearance: 1.) long method and 2.) short method. What he did is the long method. He adjusted the valves according to the firing order of the cylinder which is 1342. It means that you can only adjust the valves who are in the compression stroke which both intake and exhaust valves are closed or at rest that is why it is loose when you move them. Another is (two revolution) when you set the cylinder number 1 into compression stroke or top dead center (TDC), using the short method you can adjust 8 valves at the same time;[Cylinder No. 1 & 3 exhaust and No. 1, 2 & 4 intake then rotate crankshaft one revolution (360 deg.) then adjust remaining valves]. The reason why we can adjust them at the same time is that they are closed.
I suppose there's less chance to mess things up by doing the long method. I'd need to write down what valves I have adjusted and what not when doing short method and it might as well become long method while I'm scratching my head lol
In my area, Autozone lends out a torque wrench. BTW, what is the torque specs for that valve job you are doing? and thanks for showing us how you do it, it's very helpful.
im looking into getting new performance springs, valves and possibly cam shafts. will that change the measurements for the filler gauge? If so, where would i get those measurements?
Ok. Thank you so very much. Now I can finish the rest of them. Save my life. Ok. Maybe one more ? To be safe my 95 Honda civic clearance intake 0.007 to 0.009 and exhaust is 0.009 to 0.011 which is the best?
@@RJTheBikeGuy My mechanic ruined the valve adjustment settings so my mileage dropped big time. Any indications about where can I find the settings for my engine?
@@sajjaddurrani8446 Often on a sticker on the underside of the hood. Verify the engine in the car, is the same as the one listed on the sticker. That the hood, or the engine weren't replaced.
Louie Awwad Its industry standard (SAE) almost all engines should rotate in a counterclockwise direction; because the rotation of the flywheel and that is at the rear of the engine. There is where the engine would rotate "counter clockwise". If looking at the engine from the front it looks like its "clockwise" but it is not.
@@RJTheBikeGuy I set the exhaust to a loose .010 and a tight .011 and for the intake I set it to a loose .008 and a tight .009 and now I have a sewing machine tick tick tick sound.
@@stevenrobley1 My engine had a loud ticking as the the stuff had worn. After I adjusted the valves, it was much quieter. You need to follow the specs for your engine.
@@RJTheBikeGuy I followed the specs to the looser limit, I'm gonna try it a little bit tighter in the morning after it cools overnight. My specs for the exhaust are .009 - .011 and I set them closer to .011 so I'm gonna switch it up and set it at a tight .010 in the morning
im having aton of problems after rebuilding my d16y7...im not sure if im having a valve timing issue...120/90/90/60 psi compression ...vehicle will not start...has fuel and spark
Your video is much more easier and clear than some of the other guys. Makes me more confident to attempt this tomorrow. Thanks!
The crank pulley is the big pulley that is connected to the crank shaft and drives all of the belts. Since it is connected to the crank shaft, it's position is directly synced with the position of the pistons in the cylinders, and to the position of the valves.
Adjusting the valve lash would definitively be worthwhile at that mileage. And it would be a lot less drastic. I was getting a lot of tapping at idle. After adjusting the valve lash, it quieted down quite a bit.
When you have it at top dead center, I do believe you can adjust cylinder number 1 and 3. Also, when it is rotated 180 degrees, cylinder number 2 and 4 are loose. You can adjust two cylinders at a time.
Are you sure?
Wrong, should do the sequence, 1, 3, 4, 2.
Some older 4 cylinder motors with 8V or 16V you can adjust 2 cylinders at a time, but, but, Honda and some other 16V engineers have the cams set for a different geometry that requires individual cylinder attention (and some even different rotation for exhaust vs. intake on the same cylinder OMG). So do not guess with some of the modern designs or you will have some valves too tight and that is death.
I dont agree. If you set cyl1 on tdc and all valves are closed. on cyl3 one valve is open even if its also on tdc.
Thanks a lot for the help! Replaced the engine last summer but never got around to the valve adjustment. This was helpful.
Great info man! saved me about 600$ when i do this and the timing belt
THANK YOU!
Best information video about Honda civic
Thanks for your video. You helped me a lot . I hope I see more of your videos
I appreciate this; in depth and informative
Oh and a 1/2" ratchet wrench with some extensions and a 17mm socket to rotate the crank. You can pick up a bunch of these tools cheap at a place like Harbor Freight. Though you might want to pickup a better quality torque wrench elsewhere...
I don't remember offhand. I got them out of the manual for my car. You need to look up the specs specific to your car. They might be different.
Remember. Always change the gasket BEFORE you close the valve cover
Which tools? In this video I use a 10mm metric box end wrench, and a screw driver, a torque wrench, with 10mm socket, and a feeler gauge. All pretty basic stuff. The torque wrench is the most expensive tool at about $50 on sale at Sears.
I can't adjust the screw on the exhaust side of valve 4. It is stuck in the thread. What do you recommend? Use heat?..I decided to put the valve cover on ..Car starts, sounds kinda pingy, I'm thinking its the rocker arm that wouldnt adjust go.
If you want to get this as accurate as possible and get exactly top dead center as accurate to the ten thousandths, then use a dial indicator and place at the top of each valve at TDC.
Thanks so much! This was very helpful.
Another excellent Utube vid! Very helpful & valuable
after i did this to my cousin's civic, it sounds like a subaru at idle!... and he likes it..
If you put your car in 5th gear, you can just move the car inches at a time to turn the engine to line up the valves. You can go back and forth so you don't have to push your car down the block....:^)
Zed T.T. you can find the clearance values on a sticker under your hood as pointed out at 4:35 in the video. The values for your engine might be different than mine.
can adjusting the valves stop a weird ticking sound under load. i have a video here watch?v=XE3ZBqHeGHc
That might be the valves. but not sure. Valve ticking is usually more nonstop. You can always open it up and check the valve lash and see if that is where the sound is coming from.
it actually ended being an exhaust leak. thanks
+crysis860 So you only heard ticking noise during acceleration? I have the same and also suspected exhaust leak as I can smell exhaust fumes and gas around the hood when car is idling cold during winter but I can't hear any strange idling noises until engine warms up. Where was it leaking from btw.?
When engine warms up it develops annoying "tapping" noise on idle and I'm not sure if it's the valvetrain or same exhaust leak (hole expands with metal or something), source of these noises appear to be difficult to locate but I think it's coming from the valves. The colder it gets outside the noisier that tapping is up to a point that it sounds like old diesel engine. But I guess it could need valve adjustment too as I think it has never been done.
Thanks a gain for fast reply..
Very easy to locate the 180° remove the camshaft cover.
If dealer says 60k, my car has done 26k but is 12 years old. Is it always mileage or age too?
Unless previous mechanic adjusted valves wrong, how can valve clearances become too tight over time? It would mean that valves can burn if clearances are not adjusted periodically? I'd imagine that as parts wear out clearances can only get more loose and that causes tapping noises etc.
I'm going to have my 1998 Honda Civic LX looked at this week. It has a light ticking sound which I'm almost certain is due to loose valves. I'd rather not do this adjustment myself. I don't want to damage the valves nor the engine. How much should I expect for a shop to do this? Thanks for the detailed video!
Sorry, I have no clue. My shop had given me a price of about $1000, but that included other stuff too.
very helpful video! whats is the torque spec for the nut after adjusting? thanks
The manual for my car says 20 N-m or 14 lbf-ft. That is both intake and exhaust.
YOU CAN ALSO JUST TURN THE ENGINE FROM THE POWER STEERING PUMP WITHOUT TAKING OF THE WHEEL AND DOING IT FROM DOWN THERE.....
Correct me if I'm wrong but the firing sequence should be exhaust #1 intake #1 then exhaust #3 intake #2 then exhaust #2 intake #3 then exhaust #4 intake#4. I have a 00 honda civic ex thanks.
The firing order is 1,3,4,2.
great video, only question i have is does the gunsight point line up at the same place for cylinder 1& 4? Im assuming so...You have to turn the engine block two full times in total to adjust all valves correct??
Yes, the line will line up with the gunsight on cylinders 1 & 4. Yes, you have to turn the crank around 2 full times.
Thanks for the quick reply and again for the videos! Just wanted to ensure i understood it clearly beforr tackling it :)
hey I have b7 engine on my Honda civic 92 and I need to know to what point do the valves need to be put on.
thanks for nice tutorial.... Do you have any idea how much is cost if do this job in mechanic shop ?
No, I do not.
What was the "Reset the ECU" thing about? Is that something you have to do when you adjust the valve'?
Honda keep a history of the engine. It makes adjustments to the timing, air/fuel mixture etc. It makes small adjustments over time as conditions change. After you make adjustments to the valve lash, the engine will still be running with the old characteristics of the engine. It will take time to learn the new characteristics of the engine. Resetting the ECU speeds up that process.
How do you know if you did this wrong? I feel like the engine sounds different now. Almost like there is a air leak, but all the hoses are connected correctly. I don't have any check engine light, and there is not vibration outside of normal, but I still hear a slight clicking as though I didn't do it quite right on cylinder 1 or 2. But the difference in engine sound is quite a bit to me, and I'm concerned I didn't do this correctly.
Go back and remeasure everything.
Nice video! The valve train is very clean for the high mileage. How often do you change your oil and what oil do you use?
+TheBigfoot2013 I was taking it to the Honda dealer for oil changes at their recommended mileage.
You are obviously talented enough to do your own valve adjustment. Why not do your own oil changes?
Hi! I'm adjusting my valves....when doing cylinder #1 exhaust and intake are loose....I notice exhaust #3 cylinder is loose and intake #2 cylinder is loose as well....is this normal or what can I do to fix. Thank you very much!
That's normal. That is how timing works on these engines. They are all in different points in the sequence of letting gas/air in, combusting, then letting the exhaust back out.
I still have a bad tick after setting intake/exhaust to .007 on a d16a6. According to spec .007 should cover intake and exhaust. What would cause me to have to tighten MORE than spec (without compressing valve spring) ?
That spec doesn't sound right. What I am finding online is Intake: .007-.009, and Exhaust: .009-.011.
What's the consequences of turning the crank shaft clockwise, instead of counterclockwise?
I don't know, but that is what the manuals say.
Turning the crankshaft the wrong direction will cause mechanical lash of the timing belt and camshaft to occur in the wrong direction, which causes crankshaft position to be a poor indicator of camshaft position. Also, it's never a good idea to reverse the wear direction of the rocker arm followers and cam lobes, and may cause some small surface damage.
When tensioning the timing belt it is essential to turn the crankshaft counterclockwise so that the tensioning mechanism will work.
Question after you done with the valves did you need to put back the engine like how it was before i meant the crankshaft like if you done with cylinder 2 the last one you don’t need to do anything else just clean and put everything back together?!
No, you only need to rotate the crank to get the valves in the right positions to adjust them. It doesn't matter where it is after you are done.
RJ The Bike Guy oh ok I’m willing to do my honda odyssey 2001 its running rough low idle only on cold keep stalling on me the first 5 min after from cold start on stop signs or traffic lights 🚦 it just like it can’t hold the idle on stop i’ve done a lot replace map sensor tps clean and ending up getting a new iac valve clean tb a lot and still but it now only stall like twice i notice that the temperature gauge its just barely reach 1/4 only and the heat its not hotter like it was probably the thermostat its stuck open a little bit
good video, what year civic and you should do video on timing belt replacement
So let me get this straight, when adjusting the valves on a civic, the lifters/rockers need to be a little tight on the feeler gauge, right? Not loose?
I wouldn't say tight. But not loose either. You want just a little friction as you slide the feeler gauge through the gap.
shyflirt1 Alright thank you, I gotta do it on my daily driver civic. It'll be a first for valve adjustments. Shouldn't be too bad.
Sorry, no clue. You might ask on a tuner board.
Nice video. What type if oil (conventional or synthetic) do you use and what oil change interval? That engine is clean!!
I took it to the Honda dealer for changes. They used conventional oil. I did regular oil changes based on their recommendations.
Thank u for a good lesson..so every time u done with one valve adjustment, u turn 180 degree counter clock, right?
You turn the crank 180 degrees counter clockwise after finishing adjusting the valves on each cylinder. There are four valves on each cylinder.
Some peole say that you have to rotate it to 90 degrees to adjust the #3 cylinder valves and you say 180 im confuse now
Ed, when you adjust the crank shaft to 180 degree, the cam shaft will move only 90 degree, don't be confuse.
How do you know when/if you need to adjust valves? I have 160K on my civic and am just wondering
You'll need the check the service schedule for your model. But I have seen 15000-30000 miles. They will get louder...sort of a tapping sound.
Not on that car. The Accord I have now has VTEC, so there may be videos from that coming.
Question RJ , do I remove the spark plugs or leave them in when performing this job ?
I didn't.
@@RJTheBikeGuy . Will I still be fine if I pull them out?
@@max41050 I would leave them in to prevent anything from falling into the cylinders.
@@RJTheBikeGuy .okay thanks it makes sense.
Nice video man . I had one question when ur done adjusting the last valves do u need to put it back to tdc or can u leave it on cylinder 2 and start the car that way. Any info would be great going to do this soon :)
When you are done, it doesn't matter. Just close it up and start the car.
shyflirt1
thanks for your response that was the thing holding me back thanks i appreciate the info
Thank you so much
227 miles, or 227,000 miles? If it only has 227, take it back to the dealer. If it has 227,000 miles, doing some of the stuff in my videos might help. You mention it making noises in the comment on another video. It depends on the noises. I don't know what problems your engine has. It could be something as simple as a tune up, or could be about ready to self destruct.
Where can I get the feeler gauge at? I've been everywhere and can't find a .2mm and .25mm the lowest I've found is .8mm
Not sure where you are going. I probably got this at Sears. Probably any auto parts store.
RJ The Bike Guy thank you fo r your response. I ended up buying one off of eBay. It's a whole set of mm gauges. I was also wondering what does the plus and minus mean on lash specs foir honda civic. And the intake lash is 0.2 +- 0.02mm and the 0.02mm on my gauges is paper thin if not thinner. Is that the correct one?
Jacob Cassidy,
0.20mm +/- 0.02mm = low 0.18mm to high gap of 0.22mm
0.25mm +/- 0.02mm = low 0.23mm to high gap of 0.27mm
Large Number is Valves from the front of engine (Bumper)
Small Number is Valves from the back (Windshield)
So to recap:
Any sizes from 0.23mm to 0.27mm feeler gauge would work
Any sizes, 0.18mm to 0.22mm for the back will work.
My daughter and I don't like to break our nails or get burn.
Do this only when the engine is cold, so don't park the car in the sun.
If engine is warm, don't even try this.
Can you list tools needed to complete this
It's been brought up a couple of times but I didn't see any answers for, some sources, including the Honda Service Manual, say to turn the crank 90 deg. to get to cyl. #3, another 90 deg for #4 and then another 90 deg for #2 for a total of 1 360 deg revolution, where as this method calls for 2 complete revolutions. Which one is right?
Go back check your sources more closely. They say to turn the CAM pulley 90 degrees. When you turn the crank pulley 180 degrees, the cam pulley turns 90 degrees.
+Gary Benites
There are two ways in
adjusting valve clearance: 1.) long method and 2.) short method. What he did is
the long method. He adjusted the valves according to the firing order of the
cylinder which is 1342. It means that you can only adjust the valves who are in
the compression stroke which both intake and exhaust valves are closed or at
rest that is why it is loose when you move them.
Another is (two revolution) when you set the cylinder number 1 into
compression stroke or top dead center (TDC), using the short method you can
adjust 8 valves at the same time;[Cylinder No. 1 & 3 exhaust and No. 1, 2 & 4 intake then rotate crankshaft one revolution (360 deg.) then adjust
remaining valves]. The reason why we can adjust them at the same time is that
they are closed.
I suppose there's less chance to mess things up by doing the long method. I'd need to write down what valves I have adjusted and what not when doing short method and it might as well become long method while I'm scratching my head lol
In my area, Autozone lends out a torque wrench. BTW, what is the torque specs for that valve job you are doing? and thanks for showing us how you do it, it's very helpful.
im looking into getting new performance springs, valves and possibly cam shafts. will that change the measurements for the filler gauge? If so, where would i get those measurements?
Ok. Thank you so very much. Now I can finish the rest of them. Save my life. Ok. Maybe one more ? To be safe my 95 Honda civic clearance intake 0.007 to 0.009 and exhaust is 0.009 to 0.011 which is the best?
Just try to get it into the range recommended for your car.
did you ever change the timing belt?
What was the torque on the value cover screws
9.8N-m or 7.2lbf-ft. Tighten the bolts in two or three steps.
well done
what is the need to rotate the engine counter clockwise?
It could jump time if turned clockwise
Are these the best D13B engine valve settings for a good petrol average?
They are the proper settings for my engine. You need to look up the settings for your engine which may be different.
@@RJTheBikeGuy My mechanic ruined the valve adjustment settings so my mileage dropped big time. Any indications about where can I find the settings for my engine?
@@sajjaddurrani8446 Often on a sticker on the underside of the hood. Verify the engine in the car, is the same as the one listed on the sticker. That the hood, or the engine weren't replaced.
You are supposed to use a line wrench when adjusting valves so you don't round off the nut.
Louie Awwad Its industry standard (SAE) almost all engines should rotate in a counterclockwise direction; because the rotation of the flywheel and that is at the rear of the engine. There is where the engine would rotate "counter clockwise". If looking at the engine from the front it looks like its "clockwise" but it is not.
Would you cause damage to the internals if you rotated the engine clockwise?
I don't know exactly when would happen, but the manual says counter-clock wise. So why risk it?
Fair enough. Thanks for posting the video.
Johnny CincoCero no you wont damage anything
the tensioner might go loose
How many pound to adjust the valve cover six screw?
9.8N-m or 7.2lbf-ft. Tighten the bolts in two or three steps.
Turning 180 degrees on crank, or cam. Please be specific. Thanks
Watch the whole video!
Make sure you use a lint free rag when you clean inside the engine.
Did the adjustment make the engine run smoother and or quieter?
Yes!
@@RJTheBikeGuy I set the exhaust to a loose .010 and a tight .011 and for the intake I set it to a loose .008 and a tight .009 and now I have a sewing machine tick tick tick sound.
@@stevenrobley1 My engine had a loud ticking as the the stuff had worn. After I adjusted the valves, it was much quieter. You need to follow the specs for your engine.
@@RJTheBikeGuy I followed the specs to the looser limit, I'm gonna try it a little bit tighter in the morning after it cools overnight. My specs for the exhaust are .009 - .011 and I set them closer to .011 so I'm gonna switch it up and set it at a tight .010 in the morning
Ticking noise is gona after 1 day of driving
Culillane you would get the specs from your camshaft that you purchase
Torque for valvecover bolts: 7.2 ft/lb?? only???
Eero Laukkanen hand tighten those they are VERY easy to break.
Is it the same thing for z6
Yes, it is.
no VTEC?
Can I do this without my timing belt on
No.
I'm pretty sure the valve cover has a bolt pattern.
my honda civic 99 dx keep ticking hopefully this valves adjustment gonna stop the ticking noise...
Tuan Nguyen u
im having aton of problems after rebuilding my d16y7...im not sure if im having a valve timing issue...120/90/90/60 psi compression ...vehicle will not start...has fuel and spark
Bad compression need to check head and block for warpage
Yep it's 1 3 4 2 firing order
"Oh I'm going to be able to do this" "take the left wheel off" "fuck"
You did not tighten bolt properly.
But nice video.
You do not re use your gaskets.
Hey I think I'm having the same problem.
2 thousandths not .002mm
To much talk making confused..
You stutter too much and it seems like its hard for you to say the words. Try to work on that lol . But i do appreciate the video