This will make SO MANY of you very happy!
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- Опубліковано 26 вер 2024
- ▼ IMPORTANT DETAILS ABOUT VIDEO: ▼
- UV curing wood finish (sponsored): mywoodcutters....
- My digital caliper: amzn.to/4dfelkM
- My digital height gauge: amzn.to/4eymAtc
- My router table roller guide: www.harveywood...
- My lock miter bit: amzn.to/47HHP9Q
★THIS VIDEO WAS MADE POSSIBLE BY★
My Woodcutters is a small Canadian business that specializes in Helical carbide jointer/planer heads and replacement HSS steel knives for both new and older machines. It is well worth supporting: mywoodcutters....
My Table Saw and Bandsaw are AWSOME! Check them out at Harvey Woodworking Machinery: www.harveywood...
My hand tool collection includes premium tools from Bridge City Tool Works: bridgecitytool...
Please help support us by using the link above for a quick look around!
(If you use one of these affiliate links, we may receive a small commission)
Some other useful links:
-Check out our project plans: stumpynubs.com...
-Instagram: / stumpynubs
-Twitter: / stumpynubs
★SOME OF MY FAVORITE INEXPENSIVE TOOLS★
- #ISOtunes Hearing Protection (Save 10%): shop.isotunes....
-BOW Featherboards: amzn.to/430ldhv
-123 Blocks: lddy.no/vpij
-Mechanical Pencils: amzn.to/2PA7bwK
-Lumber pencil: amzn.to/2QtwZjv
-Pocket Measuring Tape: amzn.to/2kNTlI9
-Nut/Bolt/Screw Gauge: amzn.to/2CuvxSK
-Self-Centering Bits: amzn.to/2xs71UW
-Steel Ruler: lddy.no/10mv7
-Center-Finding Ruler: lddy.no/10nak
-Bit & Blade Cleaner: amzn.to/2TfvEOI
-Narex Chisels: lddy.no/sqm3
-Mini Pull Saw: amzn.to/2UEHBz6
-Shinwa Rulers: lddy.no/zl13
(If you use one of the affiliate links above, we may receive a small commission)
▼ *IMPORTANT DETAILS ABOUT VIDEO:* ▼
- UV curing wood finish (sponsored): mywoodcutters.com/clean-armor-wood-finishing
- My digital caliper: amzn.to/4dfelkM
- My digital height gauge: amzn.to/4eymAtc
- My router table roller guide: www.harveywoodworking.com/products/universal-roller-guide
- My lock miter bit: amzn.to/47HHP9Q
★THIS VIDEO WAS MADE POSSIBLE BY★
My Woodcutters is a small Canadian business that specializes in Helical carbide jointer/planer heads and replacement HSS steel knives for both new and older machines. It is well worth supporting: mywoodcutters.com/
*My Table Saw and Bandsaw are AWSOME! Check them out at Harvey Woodworking Machinery:* www.harveywoodworking.com/
*My hand tool collection includes premium tools from Bridge City Tool Works:* bridgecitytools.com/
*Please help support us by using the link above for a quick look around!*
(If you use one of these affiliate links, we may receive a small commission)
*Some other useful links:*
-Check out our project plans: stumpynubs.com/product-category/plans/
-Instagram: instagram.com/stumpynubs/
-Twitter: twitter.com/StumpyNubs
★SOME OF MY FAVORITE INEXPENSIVE TOOLS★
- #ISOtunes Hearing Protection (Save 10%): shop.isotunes.com/stumpy
-BOW Featherboards: amzn.to/430ldhv
-123 Blocks: lddy.no/vpij
-Mechanical Pencils: amzn.to/2PA7bwK
-Lumber pencil: amzn.to/2QtwZjv
-Pocket Measuring Tape: amzn.to/2kNTlI9
-Nut/Bolt/Screw Gauge: amzn.to/2CuvxSK
-Self-Centering Bits: amzn.to/2xs71UW
-Steel Ruler: lddy.no/10mv7
-Center-Finding Ruler: lddy.no/10nak
-Bit & Blade Cleaner: amzn.to/2TfvEOI
-Narex Chisels: lddy.no/sqm3
-Mini Pull Saw: amzn.to/2UEHBz6
-Shinwa Rulers: lddy.no/zl13
(If you use one of the affiliate links above, we may receive a small commission)
I've had a lock miter bit since 2016. I became more and more frustrated trying to set it up by the instructions and actually didn't use it for about a year. I found your method #2 on a woodworkers website in 2017 and now, with 2 test cuts on same thickness scrap, it's ready to go in less than 10 minutes.
You amaze me with your knowledge and delivery. Points to your video team also.
That Uv finish blows my mind. That's a big game changer there.
Been thinking about getting one of these bits, but it seemed too squirrely to set right for me. I like the ruler method. Less mess and fuss. Thanks for this, gonna pick one up now 😁
I have used this type of bit for years. I do not make the joint with one pass. I just creep up on it using multiple passes until the last pass matches the edge. I find that by using multiple passes I get less tear out (I use this bit most often for drawers and cutting 1/2 ply). No measurements needed...
@dougwing6326, if I understand your comment, the sneaking up would be by adjusting the French depth, is that correct? Then this would still require setting proper bit height? No condemnation, just looking to understand. Thanks.
@@brucenewton8721 Yes. I have a "setup block" I made by cutting the miter on a piece of 1/2 ply. That took a few tries to get it in the middle as in this video. But from that point on I adjust the height with the setup block and then use the fence to complete the joint.
To add to the reasons this fast cure time is invaluable, it prevents airborne particles and bugs from finding their way into your finish as it's vulnerable curing so there's no surprises.
Given that most of us don't have perfectly isolated cure rooms or lab level air particulate control, this would be my #3 reason for making the investment after saving space and saving time (and time is money!)
That fnish seems like a perfect candidate to be applied with an automotive vinyl squeegee (ala Rubio Monocoat) . It would saves expensive finish that would normally be wasted saturating the brush or pad...
1:03
I have been using lock miter joints since 1973. Mostly cus on a large 2 spindle shaper. Works great for plywood veneer column covers. Increases the total glue surface area over a basic miter. It is wonderful how the corners self align. We had shaper knife sets for up to 3/4" and up to 1 1/2" thicknesses.
One could just scribe the center of the bit on the flat relief surface of the bit and have a permanent guide instead of guessing where half the slope is. In fact the bit manufacturers could include a center mark and then marks showing the wood thicknesses to assist in the initial set up.
Rockler sells a $10 setup jig for their bit as well that get you the perfect alignment for 3/4 and 5/8 stock as well. Or you can just get it dialed in and cut your own.
I think the easy way would be to set it up for the board thickness you want to use, then keep a short section of the test piece you made. The next time you need to use it for that thickness you can just use the test piece and raise the bit until it fits in the test piece. Next move the fence until it fits completely.
Can you get the UV finish people to sell a small sample bottle, please?
Thank you for the great lesson on the bit use! I can’t afford it right now but may try much later. At least now I know, thanks to you!
Important note on the UV finish. There is extra expense required per the mfg incurred by having to also buy their specific UV light to cure the finish. “a dedicated UV light with a frequency between 365 and 400 nm is a must to cure Clean Armor products. These lights also must operate in low energy with a range of 1 to 3 milliwatts light output per square centimeter. To the best of our knowledge, only the CUVO lights are made to these specifications.”
The finish manufacturer does not sell the UV lights.
I bought a cheapo $50 365nm 50w floodlight from Amazon and it worked beautifully
Grest video as always James!😊
I bought a lock miter bit but haven’t used it yet. Thanks for the tips!
I use the setup jigs from Infinity Cutting Tools. It takes a couple of seconds to set up a perfect cut.
In my experience, setup blocks only get you close. You still need test cuts and small adjustments.
Great Content as always thumbs up👍
I've struggled with lock joint setup, will give this a try next time. Thanks!
1:15 a quick tip is to add both numbers together then divide by 2. It's not a game changer but one less division.
This finish solves a lot of problems but doesn't solve the problem of my wallet being empty. :)
Want your wallet to start filling up again?
Stop woodworking 😂
2:37 seems like this should be marked on the cutter from the factory...
I agree!
definitely!
I have always wondered the about that same thing, why doesn’t the mfgr. mark where is this mythical center of the bit? Could this be because the center point changes with each sharpening of the cutters (maybe)?
I haven’t used mine yet, hearing about how difficult this bit can be to set up discourages spending the time to figure this out. Has anyone used the Infinity Tools set up gauges for setting these bits up? Curious to hear about that experience as well.
@@bigk4755 james says in other responses that he finds the setup aids to not be particularly helpful. you may want to read those comments.
even easier method one: you're performing one extra math calc you don't need to do. Just add the two measurements together and then divide by 2. That's 2 operations instead of three.
In regards to the UV curing finish. I wonder if it would work to apply it with a squeegee so you didn’t loose any finish soaking into a rag.
This is one bit that I keep a setup block for. Once I'm dialed in, I keep a short section of stock with the profile and use that next time I set the bit. It still may need tweaking, but it gets me damned close. As long as my stock is the same size....
I’ll try the wood finish for sure and have to think of a use for the Lock Miter.
This is not new technology. I was taught this joint in the mid seventies. I’m still using it today.
For this of us in the US, the first method provides an opportunity to use the metric system on the digital calipers. No need to make it harder this or has to be with the math.
You could also use decimal inches. Fractions are for framing.
No thanks.
@@kensherwin4544 Yeah, the metric fanboys never seem to realize that fractions can be expressed in decimals. lol
I seem to recall that rockler sold a lock mitre bit and also had a corresponding uhmw plastic gauge block to help you set it up.
I've never found those blocks (or homemade ones) to be as accurate as they claim to be. They get you close, but you still need test cuts and adjustments. This method (especially the digital one) is as fast or faster, in my experience. But if you prefer the setup block idea, these methods will still serve you will the first time, before you make your block.
Micro jig sell a kit (that only works with their bit) and then there is the infinity one that’s like $60 for a piece for an etched piece of metal…
This dig is based purely on my experiences regarding Rockler brand blue router bits. Rockler actually sells both their house brand router bits for the lock miter joint at $79.99 and the Freud lock miter router bit at $109.99. Because I have had Rockler router bits loose their carbide cutters during their first use for no apparent reason, or throw the carbide cutter if the bit made contact with an aluminum jig (I have experienced both of these failures), I would not buy one of their router bits for any amount of savings. Such failures make me ask serious questions about how the brazing is done and about how unsafe such router bits are to use. Yes, I know that I can go back to the store and generally they will replace a defective product (if they have another in stock) immediately. But going back to the store is time, which equals money; not to mention the safety concern since flying bits of loose carbide have to go somewhere, and I would rather they not end up in me. I have never experienced a similar failure with any name brand router bit, including Freud or Whiteside (my personal preference), this further reinforces my personal bias against Rockler blue router bits.
Wouldn't it completely depend on the thickness of the stock?
@@larrybud Yes, but it gives you a reference rather than doing all the measuring mate.
at $132 for a fully chemical resistant clear UV photopolymer that comes in various levels of sheen... I'll be trying 3D printing SLA resins with the same ratios at 1/5 the cost lol
🥱
I’ve got the cheapish Bosch router table, where you have to reach underneath and twist the collar and then lock it down. I don’t wanna have to buy one that has the nice cranking mechanism (twist a key from above to raise/lower). Is there such thing as buying just the mechanism for raising/lowering a router? And the preferred raise/lowering method would be a similar Allen-key crank from above, but I’m fine if the cranking happens below the deck.
They make router lifts. You can build your own table much nicer or set it into a bench. There is a whole flip top one made by dowelmax as well
Well, what do you know? I’ll have to get that router bit out that I bought a couple years ago. I made one cut with it and put it away., Thinking what a waste! Thanks Stumpy!
I have a pile of items like your router bit. Used one anx tossed in the never use again department or straight into the trash. Nobody throws tools and trinkets out like me. I have a short short fuse for "easy to use" then its not.
I wonder how long the finish lasts in the bottle after it’s open. I lost most of my UV resin while it sat in the bottle. Rock hard when I tried again in less than a month.
I think a year, but you should check with them.
That's a scary looking bit
I use the large sized version because it will work for thicker stock. They make a smaller one that works for 3/4-inch stock and thinner. Also remember, most of the bit is hidden inside the table and behind the fence. It's not as scary as it seems :)
Do some raised panels with a bit....
Super useful information. This cutter in great for making a client think that you put up a huge beam when you only put up a 2X and 3 pieces or 3/4. And I love the Michigan items, although many old men I have worked with would throw your coffee cup in the trash because it is sitting on your saw. "It's a saw, dammit not your office table" quote of many carpenters... Thanks for the video!
His new saw has a nickel coating per a recent video and wouldn't be damaged by any liquids from his cup. I guess they could make an argument about it being in the way and preventing work from getting done. :)
I am talking to a camera. It's a bench at the moment. If I had that cup sitting on the saw while I was cutting, the "old men" might have an argument.
Thanks a bunch for all the info, James! 😊
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Followed from years, Just subscribed Today -) 🐧
So I learned what a lock miter joint is and best how to set it up all in one video. The UV cure coating is also new to me! I restore antiques that need a resilient finish and this looks to be just right for that! I can get a can of it for what a hamburger now costs! :)
Wonderful video thank you for sharing. Everyone stay safe, happy and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia
Cool bit. Thanks for the setup info. Seems like the setup is going to require some practice...
Great video explanation. Until I get better, I'll keep cheating and use the $10 setup jig from Rockler 🤷♀
How does the Clean Armor finish sand? Does it easily clog regular sandpaper? There HAS TO BE a caveat here somewhere.
I never heard of these before, but now I want one. Would they work for making picture frames? The connecting edge is very small, so I'm not sure how you'd orient it... (I use a guess and check calibrated table saw right now for the corners.)
Excellent! Best straight forward guide to lock miter router table settings. This should be the manual.
Anyone know about the forever chemical nature of that finish?
You made that look really simple James. Thank you for the tutorial.
I've seen those lock mitre bits, and I've always been intimidated by them. After seeing this, I may rethink the idea.
Thank you. I bought one of these bits several months ago. After must frustration and the creation of a lot of fire would. I toasted them in the drawer and forgot about them. Looking forward to trying your way out.
I used a lock miter bit decades ago with my Sears Craftsman router and matching table. I had no problems at all. I made large full-extension pantry drawers.
I use the same stuff in my CAD machine,
You can just put it in bright sunlight. Real fast
I think that if it’s something used often enough that it’s worth setting up something permanent. I have found that because the bit does both cuts one vertical and one horizontal it doesn’t allow enough room for glue. I’ve also run both panels horizontal and then cut the tongue off of one with a dado. This way you can control how deep the dado is for glue. Anyway is most situations a miter fold is just fine.
Nice video and very concise directions. Thank you!
Thanks for sharing with us James, great information on setting up the router bit and table. The wood finish is awesome too. Stay safe and keep up the good work. Fred.
And remember to unplug your router before you touch the bit. I am absolutely sure James did.
Thank you for this. The bit setup has always been a problem for me
Will the new finish adhere to Poly, which is already on the item?
Microjig has a lock miter bit that is supposed to solve this setup issue. I bought one, have not tried it yet.
for that finish do you know how well it holds up over time or does UV degrade it
Great helpful hints on setting up for the router bit. Thank you!
That's without doubt the best tutotrial I've seen on the bit setup, period.
Great tips on the lock miter setup. Thanks!
Two comments.
1. Man oh man does this seem complex. Should the bit manufacturers laser in some markings? Should tables now come built with micrometers?
2. Are you losing weight? You seem much slimmer. If so, I hope that it's by choice, and if so, good on you.
Time to try again with the lock miter bit I bought a couple years ago and proceeded to put in the drawer after several frustrating attempts to use it.
Good video, I hope that UV curing finishes catch on and they get cheaper over time, they are a dream to use.
U first got one of these when I commissioned to make some display columns for a local glass blower, I use them now for almost all my miter joints.
I like my version best: I bought the set=up tool when I got the bit.
Could you just put the work out in the sun for a couple minutes to cure as well?
i know its ok but the cup on the saw drives me crazy
Thanks for the info i always like the lock miter joint but hesitated to use it just because of it being so fidelity to get set up perfect ill definitely give your suggestions a go thanks again have a wonderful evening
I bought that bit the first time you showed its use and I love it. Great refresher course for those you have followed you since the days of building the home made drum sander and home made domino and the work bench you need a crane to remove from the shop
Great overview. Thank you.
Looks more like a shaper bit not router……
This bit feels like cheating.
Excellent video once again!
This guy is Jimmy Kimmel-ish
Like the simplicity
what's a ruler?
very good 6:50
Yea…try to set it up!
Like it‼️
I bought the Clean Armor Satin finish. I was very disappointed, because it sure as heck looks like every GLOSS finish I've ever used. The Woodcutters just argued with me that I was wrong, but that didn't make me happy with my results.
$133 per quart times five quarts plus the $250 I UV light. You can guess how unhappy I am with the customer service.
I paint for a living and every brand is a different when it comes to sheen.
What is called gloss now is laughable when it comes to paint.
As far as poly goes I'm a voc kinda guy and pro luxe/sikkens door and window (oil based) satin is actual satin and gloss is gloss.
Anything waterborne just ferls like I'm applying junk
Great tips on the lock miter bit! The finish that you're promoting sounds amazing. How about a discount code? 😁
If I had one, I'd use it myself!
What do folks think about using these lock miter bits on plywood joints?
look at the invisible joint from his nubs in another vid. it gets much the same result using a straight router bit and is a much easier set up.
Interesting finish, how do you think the 357 would hold up for a dining room table …water spots?
It would laugh at them.
5:34, 6:05, 6:45, 8:22, and a previous video, you keep making the point of no respirator. The Material Safety Data Sheet for this product includes the statements:
Avoid breathing dust/fume/gas/mist/vapors/spray.
Use only outdoors or in a well ventilated area.
IF INHALED: Remove victim to fresh air and keep at rest in a position comfortable for breathing.
Perhaps there is no reference to a respirator because there is no effective respirator filter.
I suspect that, for the hobby woodworker, this product is neither more nor less "safe" than traditional varnish, shellac, or lacquer, provided those materials are used appropriately. Its biggest appeal is the time factor, which is an issue mostly for professionals. The hobby woodworker has to balance the time factor against the very significant cost factor.
Maybe they just add this to their label to prevent the vultures from trying to wreck their lives?
Me personally I do hack work but, prefer my oil based hi voc finishes.
#2
Is that a drink cup on your tablesaw top? Hopefully not filled with a liquid just waiting to stain the surface. 😅
I assume you are referring to what I said in the last video?
🖖
What's your opinion of the lock miter bit jig? I don't know if it's sold elsewhere but Infinity tools is where I've seen it.
They get you close, but you still need test cuts. These methods work just as well.
Wonderful video. I watched that ad for the finish before and it's got my attention. I'm planning on making cabinets this winter, does anyone know if it's food safe?
From their website…
“Is Clean Armor Food safe?
Clean Armor products do not have any HAP and VOC and therefore, are fairly safe. However, Clean Armor has tried, but did not receive FDA approval for cutting boards and similar products. The products cure to an extremely hard material, that when cut into with a sharp knife, repeated cuts will result in fine slivers of the finish that eventually may break free and mix into food. When consumed, they may be dangerous not on a poisonous level, but rather physical…
For any other products, such as serving trays or wooden goblets and bowls, the product does waterproof the wood and is also safe.”
These bits only work with 3/4" material?
They make two versions. The smaller will work with material up to 3/4-inch thick. The larger one will do what the smaller one will do, but will also work with material up to 1-1/4 inch thick. Obviously, the larger one is more expensive.
The easiest, quickest and simplest is to get the set up block when you get the bit. Or buy the block from your supplier or source.
That gets you close, but you still have to do test cuts and make fine adjustments. These methods are just as good, in my opinion.
Has anyone run into the problem of the dry fitted joint being perfect, but then the glue swells the very thin mitre side so it is curved, and a gap opens up? I was using Titebond 3 in douglas fir.
Is the gap along the sharp edge (corner) of the joint, where the two pieces come together?
Do you have any information on the durability of Clean Armor wood finish uses on outside boat trim?
They have an exterior version. I would contact them and ask.
Thank you for a very informative video. Can the finish be stained or will it go over stained material?
I believe the finish itself can be tinted with alcohol based dyes. It will go over any cured stain.
Does that finish allow for a light 0000 steel wool after it cures to bring down the sheen? Or maybe they have a satin finish?
NM, I finally saw your link and hit their website. Thank you for the heads up.
That uv finish has me wodering if you could use 3D printer resin and get the same results. 3D printer resin is a lot cheaper.
Just because two things cure with exposure to UV rays doesn't make them the same any more than two resins that cure with exposure to oxygen. You would have to contact the manufacturer to ask.
I don't have a lock miter bit but I am wondering why one could not use trial and error?
How much trial and error do you want to use? This will cut that down a great deal.
Is all this really easier than just using the ruler and adjusting up/down in/out until the ruler touches in both positions properly?
Just because the ruler touches at both positions along the fence doesn't mean the bit is set for the thickness of the material you are cutting. The bit must also be aligned with the center of the workpiece.
Umm, what is that on your saw, a coffee cup? Shame shame.
In another video James explains that his saw table, bandsaw table, and I think a router table are nickel coated so that wet things like sweating cold drink will not cause rust. Apparently this is a recent innovation from Harvey Tools($$$$). Must be nice to be sponsored by a premium brand name.
I didn't see a link for the light that you used. do you have one.
never mind, i found it........
Regarding your finish, How does this do for outside furniture? Can it handle the Sun and will it keep the wood from turning grey.
They make an exterior version. I have never used it.