▼ *IMPORTANT DETAILS ABOUT VIDEO:* ▼ - UV curing wood finish (sponsored): mywoodcutters.com/clean-armor-wood-finishing - My digital caliper: amzn.to/4dfelkM - My digital height gauge: amzn.to/4eymAtc - My router table roller guide: www.harveywoodworking.com/products/universal-roller-guide - My lock miter bit: amzn.to/47HHP9Q ★THIS VIDEO WAS MADE POSSIBLE BY★ My Woodcutters is a small Canadian business that specializes in Helical carbide jointer/planer heads and replacement HSS steel knives for both new and older machines. It is well worth supporting: mywoodcutters.com/ *My Table Saw and Bandsaw are AWSOME! Check them out at Harvey Woodworking Machinery:* www.harveywoodworking.com/ *My hand tool collection includes premium tools from Bridge City Tool Works:* bridgecitytools.com/ *Please help support us by using the link above for a quick look around!* (If you use one of these affiliate links, we may receive a small commission) *Some other useful links:* -Check out our project plans: stumpynubs.com/product-category/plans/ -Instagram: instagram.com/stumpynubs/ -Twitter: twitter.com/StumpyNubs ★SOME OF MY FAVORITE INEXPENSIVE TOOLS★ - #ISOtunes Hearing Protection (Save 10%): shop.isotunes.com/stumpy -BOW Featherboards: amzn.to/430ldhv -123 Blocks: lddy.no/vpij -Mechanical Pencils: amzn.to/2PA7bwK -Lumber pencil: amzn.to/2QtwZjv -Pocket Measuring Tape: amzn.to/2kNTlI9 -Nut/Bolt/Screw Gauge: amzn.to/2CuvxSK -Self-Centering Bits: amzn.to/2xs71UW -Steel Ruler: lddy.no/10mv7 -Center-Finding Ruler: lddy.no/10nak -Bit & Blade Cleaner: amzn.to/2TfvEOI -Narex Chisels: lddy.no/sqm3 -Mini Pull Saw: amzn.to/2UEHBz6 -Shinwa Rulers: lddy.no/zl13
(If you use one of the affiliate links above, we may receive a small commission)
You have become my "comfort blanket" - I don't know why exactly. I'm a 40 year old millennial woman. When I am feeling bad, I'll watch some Stumpy. For sure it is a reliable, encyclopedic-level source of knowledge, and I am wood-obsessed, but there's another thing that I can't put words to. The Wings mug displayed there never touched is part of it LOL even though I'm a Leafs fan (!!) (or used to be when I was young). I don't know what else it is - you just seem so genuine, calm, honest. Somehow I never-to-rarely get bored watching, even though it happens to me all the time on youtube content even when they are really trying tricks to keep viewers' attention. Is it because everything you choose to say is worthwhile, no filler? Maybe you just remind me of my dad (I'm not saying you're 65, He had a hobby woodshop when I was growing up), although you are both very different, maybe it's the down-to-earthness and no ego (at least displayed online haha) and just really wanting to teach people rather than display how good you are and try to hide the method used like some channels do. It feels like I would just like to hang out in your shop and drink some coffee (out of a non-redwings mug!) and everything in life is going to be OK. Maybe other viewers feel the same and can explain it better.
1:03 I have been using lock miter joints since 1973. Mostly cus on a large 2 spindle shaper. Works great for plywood veneer column covers. Increases the total glue surface area over a basic miter. It is wonderful how the corners self align. We had shaper knife sets for up to 3/4" and up to 1 1/2" thicknesses.
I've had a lock miter bit since 2016. I became more and more frustrated trying to set it up by the instructions and actually didn't use it for about a year. I found your method #2 on a woodworkers website in 2017 and now, with 2 test cuts on same thickness scrap, it's ready to go in less than 10 minutes.
I think I saw tutorial years ago that said “ once you’ve dialed in the perfect setup, you can cut setup blocks you can use to get the bit height and fence location exactly right in seconds”. Does that work?
@afpwebworks After 3 or 4 setups, I did make setup blocks in scrap white oak. Now, in the worst case, I need a very minor adjustment for 3/4 in. stock.
Good Tips. Anytime i set up a new router bit the 1st time, once i get it right i route a small sample piece and store it with the bit. That way the next time all i have to do is move the fence and height till it lines up. Done takes no longer than 10 seconds.
Thank you. I bought one of these bits several months ago. After must frustration and the creation of a lot of fire would. I toasted them in the drawer and forgot about them. Looking forward to trying your way out.
I used a lock miter bit decades ago with my Sears Craftsman router and matching table. I had no problems at all. I made large full-extension pantry drawers.
Super useful information. This cutter in great for making a client think that you put up a huge beam when you only put up a 2X and 3 pieces or 3/4. And I love the Michigan items, although many old men I have worked with would throw your coffee cup in the trash because it is sitting on your saw. "It's a saw, dammit not your office table" quote of many carpenters... Thanks for the video!
His new saw has a nickel coating per a recent video and wouldn't be damaged by any liquids from his cup. I guess they could make an argument about it being in the way and preventing work from getting done. :)
I have used this type of bit for years. I do not make the joint with one pass. I just creep up on it using multiple passes until the last pass matches the edge. I find that by using multiple passes I get less tear out (I use this bit most often for drawers and cutting 1/2 ply). No measurements needed...
@dougwing6326, if I understand your comment, the sneaking up would be by adjusting the French depth, is that correct? Then this would still require setting proper bit height? No condemnation, just looking to understand. Thanks.
@@brucenewton8721 Yes. I have a "setup block" I made by cutting the miter on a piece of 1/2 ply. That took a few tries to get it in the middle as in this video. But from that point on I adjust the height with the setup block and then use the fence to complete the joint.
One could just scribe the center of the bit on the flat relief surface of the bit and have a permanent guide instead of guessing where half the slope is. In fact the bit manufacturers could include a center mark and then marks showing the wood thicknesses to assist in the initial set up.
Rockler sells a $10 setup jig for their bit as well that get you the perfect alignment for 3/4 and 5/8 stock as well. Or you can just get it dialed in and cut your own.
I think the easy way would be to set it up for the board thickness you want to use, then keep a short section of the test piece you made. The next time you need to use it for that thickness you can just use the test piece and raise the bit until it fits in the test piece. Next move the fence until it fits completely.
This is one bit that I keep a setup block for. Once I'm dialed in, I keep a short section of stock with the profile and use that next time I set the bit. It still may need tweaking, but it gets me damned close. As long as my stock is the same size....
Any time you are working with most any time wood and power tool settings, it is always great to have test pieces to make certain you are getting what you wanted before using the real parts for the cuts... Isn't that what scrape parts are for.....
After getting my bit locked in years ago, I made a jig using UDPE. Using the jig I can usually get it set with one test cut. Also, MICROJIG has a bit with the centered marketed and is to be used with their board center jig for fast setups. Do not the costs and I have never tried it.
Time is Money so the higher cost of a fast-curing finish can be offset by the time saved. Even more time when it's a durable finish that the customer/client isn't sending the project back for Touch-Ups after delivery or whatever (or house call to fix blemishes). BTW - When using Router Bits that make Joints, once set up, I take a scrap piece of wood and run it through the router. Then I Label and Save the piece of wood which will save me a ton of time when setting up the same bit(s) at a later date. Just raise or lower the bit until it fits snugly into the cut previously made by that bit.
Thanks for sharing with us James, great information on setting up the router bit and table. The wood finish is awesome too. Stay safe and keep up the good work. Fred.
Actually a Company called “ Infinity” solved these issues for large and small Loc Miter Bits they make and sell. It comes with a Magnetized Jig that perfectly solves this issues with no adjustment or very very little ! But great explanation if you do not use infinity bits !
Been thinking about getting one of these bits, but it seemed too squirrely to set right for me. I like the ruler method. Less mess and fuss. Thanks for this, gonna pick one up now 😁
So I learned what a lock miter joint is and best how to set it up all in one video. The UV cure coating is also new to me! I restore antiques that need a resilient finish and this looks to be just right for that! I can get a can of it for what a hamburger now costs! :)
I bought that bit the first time you showed its use and I love it. Great refresher course for those you have followed you since the days of building the home made drum sander and home made domino and the work bench you need a crane to remove from the shop
That fnish seems like a perfect candidate to be applied with an automotive vinyl squeegee (ala Rubio Monocoat) . It would saves expensive finish that would normally be wasted saturating the brush or pad...
Curious about the micro/macro frequency ranges of the UV cure compared to what John Ott discovered regarding safety. Also wondering about requirements for a sealer. And last, food coloring tatoo ink? Has anyone tested food coloring mixed with the Clean Armor finish to tease unique tones in the grain?
I think that if it’s something used often enough that it’s worth setting up something permanent. I have found that because the bit does both cuts one vertical and one horizontal it doesn’t allow enough room for glue. I’ve also run both panels horizontal and then cut the tongue off of one with a dado. This way you can control how deep the dado is for glue. Anyway is most situations a miter fold is just fine.
Really enjoy your video’s ..not afraid to step on toes and they are very informative,would like to hear your views on radial arm saws in the workshop,thank you
Important note on the UV finish. There is extra expense required per the mfg incurred by having to also buy their specific UV light to cure the finish. “a dedicated UV light with a frequency between 365 and 400 nm is a must to cure Clean Armor products. These lights also must operate in low energy with a range of 1 to 3 milliwatts light output per square centimeter. To the best of our knowledge, only the CUVO lights are made to these specifications.”
Can you get the UV finish people to sell a small sample bottle, please? Thank you for the great lesson on the bit use! I can’t afford it right now but may try much later. At least now I know, thanks to you!
After dialing in the perfect fit, save your cut offs. 1 horizontal piece and 1 vertical. Write “save” on them and the name of the bit. Now you have setup blocks next time you use the bit.
Thanks for the info i always like the lock miter joint but hesitated to use it just because of it being so fidelity to get set up perfect ill definitely give your suggestions a go thanks again have a wonderful evening
I have to put my hand up for owning a locking mitre bit for several years, and never using it. I also never use mitre joints because they are such a paint to glue up. So this video was very welcome, and I am definitely going to try it. Come to think of it, I now remember a friend at my Menz Shed showing me a locking mitre bit and saying how clever they are, and I am sure he never used the bit after that, so I'll send him a link to this video. I checked out the UV curable wood finish, and was put off by the fact he has 14 different versions. some of that was down to Gloss, Satin Matt variations, but it was still over complicated. If just one was suitable for most situations, then I might consider it, but I am not prepared to invest in multiple versions at US$133 each. I Google 'UV curing light' thinking the Clean Amor light was expensive at US$297, and found lots of options at a fraction of the price. That also got me thinking there must be lots of alternative UV curing resins and there are heaps of much cheaper alternatives. All I can say is shop around. A lot of them are available in small quantities cheap enough to try out.
To add to the reasons this fast cure time is invaluable, it prevents airborne particles and bugs from finding their way into your finish as it's vulnerable curing so there's no surprises. Given that most of us don't have perfectly isolated cure rooms or lab level air particulate control, this would be my #3 reason for making the investment after saving space and saving time (and time is money!)
James, any recommendations for a good lock mitre bit that won't break the bank? That looks like a Whiteside to me, but I didn't catch the name if you mentioned it. Thanks.
Yes, mine is Whiteside. I use the large version because it will work with material up to 1-1/4 inch thick. They have a smaller one that will work up to 3/4. Link is below the video.
For this of us in the US, the first method provides an opportunity to use the metric system on the digital calipers. No need to make it harder this or has to be with the math.
Thanks for the video, real easy to understand the bit setting 😃 now my problem; all I have is a cheap Craftsman portable table with a not too powerful router, ssssoooo, no bit for me, yet 😝😝
I've never found those blocks (or homemade ones) to be as accurate as they claim to be. They get you close, but you still need test cuts and adjustments. This method (especially the digital one) is as fast or faster, in my experience. But if you prefer the setup block idea, these methods will still serve you will the first time, before you make your block.
This dig is based purely on my experiences regarding Rockler brand blue router bits. Rockler actually sells both their house brand router bits for the lock miter joint at $79.99 and the Freud lock miter router bit at $109.99. Because I have had Rockler router bits loose their carbide cutters during their first use for no apparent reason, or throw the carbide cutter if the bit made contact with an aluminum jig (I have experienced both of these failures), I would not buy one of their router bits for any amount of savings. Such failures make me ask serious questions about how the brazing is done and about how unsafe such router bits are to use. Yes, I know that I can go back to the store and generally they will replace a defective product (if they have another in stock) immediately. But going back to the store is time, which equals money; not to mention the safety concern since flying bits of loose carbide have to go somewhere, and I would rather they not end up in me. I have never experienced a similar failure with any name brand router bit, including Freud or Whiteside (my personal preference), this further reinforces my personal bias against Rockler blue router bits.
Wonderful video. I watched that ad for the finish before and it's got my attention. I'm planning on making cabinets this winter, does anyone know if it's food safe?
From their website… “Is Clean Armor Food safe? Clean Armor products do not have any HAP and VOC and therefore, are fairly safe. However, Clean Armor has tried, but did not receive FDA approval for cutting boards and similar products. The products cure to an extremely hard material, that when cut into with a sharp knife, repeated cuts will result in fine slivers of the finish that eventually may break free and mix into food. When consumed, they may be dangerous not on a poisonous level, but rather physical… For any other products, such as serving trays or wooden goblets and bowls, the product does waterproof the wood and is also safe.”
Good stuff. Even when you cover things I don’t have any plans to use, it’s still worth the watch. If nothing else, you’re letting me know what’s possible. Cheers!
I wonder how long the finish lasts in the bottle after it’s open. I lost most of my UV resin while it sat in the bottle. Rock hard when I tried again in less than a month.
I’ve got the cheapish Bosch router table, where you have to reach underneath and twist the collar and then lock it down. I don’t wanna have to buy one that has the nice cranking mechanism (twist a key from above to raise/lower). Is there such thing as buying just the mechanism for raising/lowering a router? And the preferred raise/lowering method would be a similar Allen-key crank from above, but I’m fine if the cranking happens below the deck.
I never heard of these before, but now I want one. Would they work for making picture frames? The connecting edge is very small, so I'm not sure how you'd orient it... (I use a guess and check calibrated table saw right now for the corners.)
Thanks James. I have tried the lock mitre bit with success - ALMOST! I am having trouble with cutting end grain grooves. I am getting too much tear out. I am trying to make a box with half inch stock - base and four sides. I have tried moving the fence in gradual increments but that doesn't seem to help. HELP Thanks Jason
Just because the ruler touches at both positions along the fence doesn't mean the bit is set for the thickness of the material you are cutting. The bit must also be aligned with the center of the workpiece.
I’ve given up trying to make my lock miter bit work. After making endless test cuts, I had a perfect fit, but putting glue in the joint threw everything out of whack. Not worth the aggravation!
More important for your shop than a lock miter bit would be a Bruins’ mug instead of a Red Wings mug. You could use the old Red Wings mug to dispense Clean Armor. 😂 I love your videos!
@@StumpyNubs yep, he’s one of those players if not on your team you’ll HATE him. He has cleaned up his act quite a bit in recent seasons and he does have talent to go along with his “chippiness”. His wife is from Bristol, RI, the next town over from where we live. Believe it or not, we see him in the Ace Hardware in there from time to time. He’s really a nice guy in person.
even easier method one: you're performing one extra math calc you don't need to do. Just add the two measurements together and then divide by 2. That's 2 operations instead of three.
There's no reason why it wouldn't working on a turned word project. It's a little more difficult to apply and to get the UV light on all surfaces the more complex the shape of the wood, but that's not a huge deal.
Well, what do you know? I’ll have to get that router bit out that I bought a couple years ago. I made one cut with it and put it away., Thinking what a waste! Thanks Stumpy!
I have a pile of items like your router bit. Used one anx tossed in the never use again department or straight into the trash. Nobody throws tools and trinkets out like me. I have a short short fuse for "easy to use" then its not.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
▼ *IMPORTANT DETAILS ABOUT VIDEO:* ▼
- UV curing wood finish (sponsored): mywoodcutters.com/clean-armor-wood-finishing
- My digital caliper: amzn.to/4dfelkM
- My digital height gauge: amzn.to/4eymAtc
- My router table roller guide: www.harveywoodworking.com/products/universal-roller-guide
- My lock miter bit: amzn.to/47HHP9Q
★THIS VIDEO WAS MADE POSSIBLE BY★
My Woodcutters is a small Canadian business that specializes in Helical carbide jointer/planer heads and replacement HSS steel knives for both new and older machines. It is well worth supporting: mywoodcutters.com/
*My Table Saw and Bandsaw are AWSOME! Check them out at Harvey Woodworking Machinery:* www.harveywoodworking.com/
*My hand tool collection includes premium tools from Bridge City Tool Works:* bridgecitytools.com/
*Please help support us by using the link above for a quick look around!*
(If you use one of these affiliate links, we may receive a small commission)
*Some other useful links:*
-Check out our project plans: stumpynubs.com/product-category/plans/
-Instagram: instagram.com/stumpynubs/
-Twitter: twitter.com/StumpyNubs
★SOME OF MY FAVORITE INEXPENSIVE TOOLS★
- #ISOtunes Hearing Protection (Save 10%): shop.isotunes.com/stumpy
-BOW Featherboards: amzn.to/430ldhv
-123 Blocks: lddy.no/vpij
-Mechanical Pencils: amzn.to/2PA7bwK
-Lumber pencil: amzn.to/2QtwZjv
-Pocket Measuring Tape: amzn.to/2kNTlI9
-Nut/Bolt/Screw Gauge: amzn.to/2CuvxSK
-Self-Centering Bits: amzn.to/2xs71UW
-Steel Ruler: lddy.no/10mv7
-Center-Finding Ruler: lddy.no/10nak
-Bit & Blade Cleaner: amzn.to/2TfvEOI
-Narex Chisels: lddy.no/sqm3
-Mini Pull Saw: amzn.to/2UEHBz6
-Shinwa Rulers: lddy.no/zl13
(If you use one of the affiliate links above, we may receive a small commission)
You have become my "comfort blanket" - I don't know why exactly. I'm a 40 year old millennial woman. When I am feeling bad, I'll watch some Stumpy.
For sure it is a reliable, encyclopedic-level source of knowledge, and I am wood-obsessed, but there's another thing that I can't put words to. The Wings mug displayed there never touched is part of it LOL even though I'm a Leafs fan (!!) (or used to be when I was young). I don't know what else it is - you just seem so genuine, calm, honest. Somehow I never-to-rarely get bored watching, even though it happens to me all the time on youtube content even when they are really trying tricks to keep viewers' attention.
Is it because everything you choose to say is worthwhile, no filler? Maybe you just remind me of my dad (I'm not saying you're 65, He had a hobby woodshop when I was growing up), although you are both very different, maybe it's the down-to-earthness and no ego (at least displayed online haha) and just really wanting to teach people rather than display how good you are and try to hide the method used like some channels do.
It feels like I would just like to hang out in your shop and drink some coffee (out of a non-redwings mug!) and everything in life is going to be OK. Maybe other viewers feel the same and can explain it better.
1:03
I have been using lock miter joints since 1973. Mostly cus on a large 2 spindle shaper. Works great for plywood veneer column covers. Increases the total glue surface area over a basic miter. It is wonderful how the corners self align. We had shaper knife sets for up to 3/4" and up to 1 1/2" thicknesses.
I've had a lock miter bit since 2016. I became more and more frustrated trying to set it up by the instructions and actually didn't use it for about a year. I found your method #2 on a woodworkers website in 2017 and now, with 2 test cuts on same thickness scrap, it's ready to go in less than 10 minutes.
I think I saw tutorial years ago that said “ once you’ve dialed in the perfect setup, you can cut setup blocks you can use to get the bit height and fence location exactly right in seconds”. Does that work?
@afpwebworks After 3 or 4 setups, I did make setup blocks in scrap white oak. Now, in the worst case, I need a very minor adjustment for 3/4 in. stock.
That Uv finish blows my mind. That's a big game changer there.
Reminds me about resin printing
Good Tips. Anytime i set up a new router bit the 1st time, once i get it right i route a small sample piece and store it with the bit. That way the next time all i have to do is move the fence and height till it lines up. Done takes no longer than 10 seconds.
Thank you. I bought one of these bits several months ago. After must frustration and the creation of a lot of fire would. I toasted them in the drawer and forgot about them. Looking forward to trying your way out.
I used a lock miter bit decades ago with my Sears Craftsman router and matching table. I had no problems at all. I made large full-extension pantry drawers.
Excellent! Best straight forward guide to lock miter router table settings. This should be the manual.
Super useful information. This cutter in great for making a client think that you put up a huge beam when you only put up a 2X and 3 pieces or 3/4. And I love the Michigan items, although many old men I have worked with would throw your coffee cup in the trash because it is sitting on your saw. "It's a saw, dammit not your office table" quote of many carpenters... Thanks for the video!
His new saw has a nickel coating per a recent video and wouldn't be damaged by any liquids from his cup. I guess they could make an argument about it being in the way and preventing work from getting done. :)
I am talking to a camera. It's a bench at the moment. If I had that cup sitting on the saw while I was cutting, the "old men" might have an argument.
I have used this type of bit for years. I do not make the joint with one pass. I just creep up on it using multiple passes until the last pass matches the edge. I find that by using multiple passes I get less tear out (I use this bit most often for drawers and cutting 1/2 ply). No measurements needed...
@dougwing6326, if I understand your comment, the sneaking up would be by adjusting the French depth, is that correct? Then this would still require setting proper bit height? No condemnation, just looking to understand. Thanks.
@@brucenewton8721 Yes. I have a "setup block" I made by cutting the miter on a piece of 1/2 ply. That took a few tries to get it in the middle as in this video. But from that point on I adjust the height with the setup block and then use the fence to complete the joint.
That's without doubt the best tutotrial I've seen on the bit setup, period.
1:15 a quick tip is to add both numbers together then divide by 2. It's not a game changer but one less division.
One could just scribe the center of the bit on the flat relief surface of the bit and have a permanent guide instead of guessing where half the slope is. In fact the bit manufacturers could include a center mark and then marks showing the wood thicknesses to assist in the initial set up.
Rockler sells a $10 setup jig for their bit as well that get you the perfect alignment for 3/4 and 5/8 stock as well. Or you can just get it dialed in and cut your own.
I think the easy way would be to set it up for the board thickness you want to use, then keep a short section of the test piece you made. The next time you need to use it for that thickness you can just use the test piece and raise the bit until it fits in the test piece. Next move the fence until it fits completely.
@@phizc That's basically what the Rockler jigs are, just out of HDPE instead of wood.
This is one bit that I keep a setup block for. Once I'm dialed in, I keep a short section of stock with the profile and use that next time I set the bit. It still may need tweaking, but it gets me damned close. As long as my stock is the same size....
I do the same thing. Beats measuring and marking, can just make adjustments as needed.
Any time you are working with most any time wood and power tool settings, it is always great to have test pieces to make certain you are getting what you wanted before using the real parts for the cuts... Isn't that what scrape parts are for.....
After getting my bit locked in years ago, I made a jig using UDPE. Using the jig I can usually get it set with one test cut. Also, MICROJIG has a bit with the centered marketed and is to be used with their board center jig for fast setups. Do not the costs and I have never tried it.
Time is Money so the higher cost of a fast-curing finish can be offset by the time saved. Even more time when it's a durable finish that the customer/client isn't sending the project back for Touch-Ups after delivery or whatever (or house call to fix blemishes).
BTW - When using Router Bits that make Joints, once set up, I take a scrap piece of wood and run it through the router. Then I Label and Save the piece of wood which will save me a ton of time when setting up the same bit(s) at a later date. Just raise or lower the bit until it fits snugly into the cut previously made by that bit.
Thanks for sharing with us James, great information on setting up the router bit and table. The wood finish is awesome too. Stay safe and keep up the good work. Fred.
Time to try again with the lock miter bit I bought a couple years ago and proceeded to put in the drawer after several frustrating attempts to use it.
I’ll try the wood finish for sure and have to think of a use for the Lock Miter.
I've seen those lock mitre bits, and I've always been intimidated by them. After seeing this, I may rethink the idea.
Actually a Company called “ Infinity” solved these issues for large and small Loc Miter Bits they make and sell. It comes with a Magnetized Jig that perfectly solves this issues with no adjustment or very very little ! But great explanation if you do not use infinity bits !
Got a link?
Been thinking about getting one of these bits, but it seemed too squirrely to set right for me. I like the ruler method. Less mess and fuss. Thanks for this, gonna pick one up now 😁
Hi James , I don’t do any woodworking, no workshop , no tools , no idea really, however I do enjoy your videos !
So I learned what a lock miter joint is and best how to set it up all in one video. The UV cure coating is also new to me! I restore antiques that need a resilient finish and this looks to be just right for that! I can get a can of it for what a hamburger now costs! :)
That must be some hamburger!
@@jimweisgram9185 It was a cynical remark but have you been to the hamburger joint lately?
I've struggled with lock joint setup, will give this a try next time. Thanks!
You really should be proud of yourself, you've come so far, and you're doing great!
I bought that bit the first time you showed its use and I love it. Great refresher course for those you have followed you since the days of building the home made drum sander and home made domino and the work bench you need a crane to remove from the shop
That fnish seems like a perfect candidate to be applied with an automotive vinyl squeegee (ala Rubio Monocoat) . It would saves expensive finish that would normally be wasted saturating the brush or pad...
I bought a lock miter bit but haven’t used it yet. Thanks for the tips!
Curious about the micro/macro frequency ranges of the UV cure compared to what John Ott discovered regarding safety. Also wondering about requirements for a sealer. And last, food coloring tatoo ink? Has anyone tested food coloring mixed with the Clean Armor finish to tease unique tones in the grain?
we have them since almost 15 years.... they are amazing!!
You made that look really simple James. Thank you for the tutorial.
I think that if it’s something used often enough that it’s worth setting up something permanent. I have found that because the bit does both cuts one vertical and one horizontal it doesn’t allow enough room for glue. I’ve also run both panels horizontal and then cut the tongue off of one with a dado. This way you can control how deep the dado is for glue. Anyway is most situations a miter fold is just fine.
Really enjoy your video’s ..not afraid to step on toes and they are very informative,would like to hear your views on radial arm saws in the workshop,thank you
Important note on the UV finish. There is extra expense required per the mfg incurred by having to also buy their specific UV light to cure the finish. “a dedicated UV light with a frequency between 365 and 400 nm is a must to cure Clean Armor products. These lights also must operate in low energy with a range of 1 to 3 milliwatts light output per square centimeter. To the best of our knowledge, only the CUVO lights are made to these specifications.”
The finish manufacturer does not sell the UV lights.
I bought a cheapo $50 365nm 50w floodlight from Amazon and it worked beautifully
Depending on the circumstances, sunlight will also work in a pinch.
U first got one of these when I commissioned to make some display columns for a local glass blower, I use them now for almost all my miter joints.
Can you get the UV finish people to sell a small sample bottle, please?
Thank you for the great lesson on the bit use! I can’t afford it right now but may try much later. At least now I know, thanks to you!
After dialing in the perfect fit, save your cut offs. 1 horizontal piece and 1 vertical. Write “save” on them and the name of the bit. Now you have setup blocks next time you use the bit.
This tutorial is gold!
Great tips on the lock miter setup. Thanks!
Does that finish allow for a light 0000 steel wool after it cures to bring down the sheen? Or maybe they have a satin finish?
NM, I finally saw your link and hit their website. Thank you for the heads up.
Thanks for the info i always like the lock miter joint but hesitated to use it just because of it being so fidelity to get set up perfect ill definitely give your suggestions a go thanks again have a wonderful evening
I have to put my hand up for owning a locking mitre bit for several years, and never using it. I also never use mitre joints because they are such a paint to glue up. So this video was very welcome, and I am definitely going to try it. Come to think of it, I now remember a friend at my Menz Shed showing me a locking mitre bit and saying how clever they are, and I am sure he never used the bit after that, so I'll send him a link to this video.
I checked out the UV curable wood finish, and was put off by the fact he has 14 different versions. some of that was down to Gloss, Satin Matt variations, but it was still over complicated. If just one was suitable for most situations, then I might consider it, but I am not prepared to invest in multiple versions at US$133 each. I Google 'UV curing light' thinking the Clean Amor light was expensive at US$297, and found lots of options at a fraction of the price. That also got me thinking there must be lots of alternative UV curing resins and there are heaps of much cheaper alternatives. All I can say is shop around. A lot of them are available in small quantities cheap enough to try out.
Wonderful video thank you for sharing. Everyone stay safe, happy and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia
Great helpful hints on setting up for the router bit. Thank you!
Nice video and very concise directions. Thank you!
I use the setup jigs from Infinity Cutting Tools. It takes a couple of seconds to set up a perfect cut.
In my experience, setup blocks only get you close. You still need test cuts and small adjustments.
Good video, I hope that UV curing finishes catch on and they get cheaper over time, they are a dream to use.
To add to the reasons this fast cure time is invaluable, it prevents airborne particles and bugs from finding their way into your finish as it's vulnerable curing so there's no surprises.
Given that most of us don't have perfectly isolated cure rooms or lab level air particulate control, this would be my #3 reason for making the investment after saving space and saving time (and time is money!)
James, any recommendations for a good lock mitre bit that won't break the bank? That looks like a Whiteside to me, but I didn't catch the name if you mentioned it. Thanks.
Yes, mine is Whiteside. I use the large version because it will work with material up to 1-1/4 inch thick. They have a smaller one that will work up to 3/4. Link is below the video.
Cool bit. Thanks for the setup info. Seems like the setup is going to require some practice...
In regards to the UV curing finish. I wonder if it would work to apply it with a squeegee so you didn’t loose any finish soaking into a rag.
Thanks a bunch for all the info, James! 😊
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
For this of us in the US, the first method provides an opportunity to use the metric system on the digital calipers. No need to make it harder this or has to be with the math.
You could also use decimal inches. Fractions are for framing.
No thanks.
@@kensherwin4544 Yeah, the metric fanboys never seem to realize that fractions can be expressed in decimals. lol
Do you have to use to their uv lights or will a commonly available uv flashlight do the job?
Thanks for the video, real easy to understand the bit setting 😃 now my problem; all I have is a cheap Craftsman portable table with a not too powerful router, ssssoooo, no bit for me, yet 😝😝
Great overview. Thank you.
Thank you for this. The bit setup has always been a problem for me
I seem to recall that rockler sold a lock mitre bit and also had a corresponding uhmw plastic gauge block to help you set it up.
I've never found those blocks (or homemade ones) to be as accurate as they claim to be. They get you close, but you still need test cuts and adjustments. This method (especially the digital one) is as fast or faster, in my experience. But if you prefer the setup block idea, these methods will still serve you will the first time, before you make your block.
Micro jig sell a kit (that only works with their bit) and then there is the infinity one that’s like $60 for a piece for an etched piece of metal…
This dig is based purely on my experiences regarding Rockler brand blue router bits. Rockler actually sells both their house brand router bits for the lock miter joint at $79.99 and the Freud lock miter router bit at $109.99. Because I have had Rockler router bits loose their carbide cutters during their first use for no apparent reason, or throw the carbide cutter if the bit made contact with an aluminum jig (I have experienced both of these failures), I would not buy one of their router bits for any amount of savings. Such failures make me ask serious questions about how the brazing is done and about how unsafe such router bits are to use. Yes, I know that I can go back to the store and generally they will replace a defective product (if they have another in stock) immediately. But going back to the store is time, which equals money; not to mention the safety concern since flying bits of loose carbide have to go somewhere, and I would rather they not end up in me. I have never experienced a similar failure with any name brand router bit, including Freud or Whiteside (my personal preference), this further reinforces my personal bias against Rockler blue router bits.
Wouldn't it completely depend on the thickness of the stock?
@@larrybud Yes, but it gives you a reference rather than doing all the measuring mate.
Wonderful video. I watched that ad for the finish before and it's got my attention. I'm planning on making cabinets this winter, does anyone know if it's food safe?
From their website…
“Is Clean Armor Food safe?
Clean Armor products do not have any HAP and VOC and therefore, are fairly safe. However, Clean Armor has tried, but did not receive FDA approval for cutting boards and similar products. The products cure to an extremely hard material, that when cut into with a sharp knife, repeated cuts will result in fine slivers of the finish that eventually may break free and mix into food. When consumed, they may be dangerous not on a poisonous level, but rather physical…
For any other products, such as serving trays or wooden goblets and bowls, the product does waterproof the wood and is also safe.”
Excellent video once again!
Microjig has a lock miter bit that is supposed to solve this setup issue. I bought one, have not tried it yet.
I like the second method. Simple is best for me!
Good stuff. Even when you cover things I don’t have any plans to use, it’s still worth the watch. If nothing else, you’re letting me know what’s possible.
Cheers!
Wouldn’t your ruler “test” for method 1 set the correct bit height and fence location in one step? I haven’t tried it yet but I think it will work.
Do you have any information on the durability of Clean Armor wood finish uses on outside boat trim?
They have an exterior version. I would contact them and ask.
Will the new finish adhere to Poly, which is already on the item?
Grest video as always James!😊
I wonder how long the finish lasts in the bottle after it’s open. I lost most of my UV resin while it sat in the bottle. Rock hard when I tried again in less than a month.
I think a year, but you should check with them.
The UV cure finish is fast and efficient but still looks like plastic.
Thanks for the share dude.
It looks like a film finish. No more plasticky than poly, lacquer or shellac.
@@StumpyNubs That's what I meant.
How does the Clean Armor finish sand? Does it easily clog regular sandpaper? There HAS TO BE a caveat here somewhere.
I’ve got the cheapish Bosch router table, where you have to reach underneath and twist the collar and then lock it down. I don’t wanna have to buy one that has the nice cranking mechanism (twist a key from above to raise/lower). Is there such thing as buying just the mechanism for raising/lowering a router? And the preferred raise/lowering method would be a similar Allen-key crank from above, but I’m fine if the cranking happens below the deck.
They make router lifts. You can build your own table much nicer or set it into a bench. There is a whole flip top one made by dowelmax as well
There are a few routers that adjust from above. Triton is one, I believe.
Regarding your finish, How does this do for outside furniture? Can it handle the Sun and will it keep the wood from turning grey.
They make an exterior version. I have never used it.
I never heard of these before, but now I want one. Would they work for making picture frames? The connecting edge is very small, so I'm not sure how you'd orient it... (I use a guess and check calibrated table saw right now for the corners.)
for that finish do you know how well it holds up over time or does UV degrade it
Thanks James. I have tried the lock mitre bit with success - ALMOST! I am having trouble with cutting end grain grooves. I am getting too much tear out. I am trying to make a box with half inch stock - base and four sides. I have tried moving the fence in gradual increments but that doesn't seem to help. HELP Thanks Jason
Thank you for a very informative video. Can the finish be stained or will it go over stained material?
I believe the finish itself can be tinted with alcohol based dyes. It will go over any cured stain.
I use the same stuff in my CAD machine,
You can just put it in bright sunlight. Real fast
The easiest, quickest and simplest is to get the set up block when you get the bit. Or buy the block from your supplier or source.
That gets you close, but you still have to do test cuts and make fine adjustments. These methods are just as good, in my opinion.
As always, your method of explaining things is ideal. You, Sir James, are a master educator. Thank you for helping us become better makers.
Great video. The segment on the new finish deserves its own video, even if it's a commercial.
PS: Looks like you're losing weight?
Interesting finish, how do you think the 357 would hold up for a dining room table …water spots?
It would laugh at them.
Like the simplicity
Is all this really easier than just using the ruler and adjusting up/down in/out until the ruler touches in both positions properly?
Just because the ruler touches at both positions along the fence doesn't mean the bit is set for the thickness of the material you are cutting. The bit must also be aligned with the center of the workpiece.
I’ve given up trying to make my lock miter bit work. After making endless test cuts, I had a perfect fit, but putting glue in the joint threw everything out of whack. Not worth the aggravation!
More important for your shop than a lock miter bit would be a Bruins’ mug instead of a Red Wings mug. You could use the old Red Wings mug to dispense Clean Armor. 😂 I love your videos!
Isn't the Bruins the team with the guy who licks people in the face?
Gotta love this conversation! I could just send you a Dallas Stars mug though if you really want to class the joint up!
@@StumpyNubs he’s gone to counseling for that. 🤣🤣The Wings would love to have him!
@Seawizz203 He's a piece of garbage. Buy so was Chelios until we traded for him back in '99. Then he became our piece of garbage :)
@@StumpyNubs yep, he’s one of those players if not on your team you’ll HATE him. He has cleaned up his act quite a bit in recent seasons and he does have talent to go along with his “chippiness”. His wife is from Bristol, RI, the next town over from where we live. Believe it or not, we see him in the Ace Hardware in there from time to time. He’s really a nice guy in person.
What's your opinion of the lock miter bit jig? I don't know if it's sold elsewhere but Infinity tools is where I've seen it.
They get you close, but you still need test cuts. These methods work just as well.
Great Content as always thumbs up👍
even easier method one: you're performing one extra math calc you don't need to do. Just add the two measurements together and then divide by 2. That's 2 operations instead of three.
Could you use that coating on wood turnings
There's no reason why it wouldn't working on a turned word project. It's a little more difficult to apply and to get the UV light on all surfaces the more complex the shape of the wood, but that's not a huge deal.
I didn't see a link for the light that you used. do you have one.
never mind, i found it........
Followed from years, Just subscribed Today -) 🐧
Am I blind i don't see the link to the finishing product? Also can it be applied over another product like a tung oil stain?
Well, what do you know? I’ll have to get that router bit out that I bought a couple years ago. I made one cut with it and put it away., Thinking what a waste! Thanks Stumpy!
I have a pile of items like your router bit. Used one anx tossed in the never use again department or straight into the trash. Nobody throws tools and trinkets out like me. I have a short short fuse for "easy to use" then its not.
On your wood finish. You should know that my dentist uses this stuff but with white coloring and a bit of thickening to stop the runs.
Other than the fact that it cures with UV, why do you think it's the same thing?
Great tips on the lock miter bit! The finish that you're promoting sounds amazing. How about a discount code? 😁
If I had one, I'd use it myself!
What was that wood finish I couldn’t find it
Link below the video
Is clean armor food safe?