Great video & inlaying demo~! I'll be getting my Shaper in the mail next week and this gives me several good ideas for projects. Thanks for sharing~!demo
Thanks! This worked perfectly for me. I adjusted for using a 1mm bit using your same math and set all corner radiuses (radi-i?) for 0.5mm. FYI, on some objects I was able to click the entire path and adjust all corner settings at once.
Thanks, this was helpful. Especially how to round over the corners in illustrator before going to cut and your method of using multiple bits to work down to the 1/32" one. Thanks for sharing this.
Turned out great! Thanks for sharing. A piece of advice if you want it. Invest in some hex lag screws to screw into your clamp handles using a screw gun with a socket if you want to save some time when clamping. Also helps with the “tight quarters” issue of trying to tighten them by hand.
another consideration is that at such small offsets, if a piece of dry inlay sits in a shop where there is a lot of humidity then it will expand enough that it might not fit into the pocket..
Thank you for this video! I haven’t had the confidence to try inlay work, so I bought the bits that you used and I was able to complete my first test project! One question though, Have you had any issues with breaking the 1/32” bit? I tried to follow your instructions but may have made a mistake on something. I found when I was taking the bit out, it was broken. I have no idea when it broke or what I did wrong. Any suggestions?
I haven't yet broke my 1/32" bit, but I'm very nervous every time I use it that it's going to snap off. When I'm using it I'm being extra careful to move slowly and deliberately. With the 1/32" I'm trying to take off only the last final pass and not hog away any material left in the corners. It can be a pain, but going up through 1 or 2 bit sizes between the largest bit you use for the pocket and the 1/32" finishing bit will help knock down the material in the corners. But yeah, I fully expect I'm going to break it every time I use it. I consider it a miracle that I haven't yet!
There is an Illustrator plug-in that help the Shaper Origin to do inlay (ua-cam.com/video/jKHZuYCh7sA/v-deo.html). This plug-in is amazing and made just for the Origin.
Great video! Why do you do the progressive step down of bit sizes? I get the offset for the clean up cut. Also I have just got an origin and used once for Mother of Pearl on a headstock and turned out pretty well. I think using a clean up pass would help a bunch.
Thanks! I use the step down approach for a couple reasons. On the pocketing cuts it's a lot faster to hog out the material with the larger bits, then go at the inside perimeter with the small bit to get the sharp inside corners. For the outside perimeter cuts, the small bits can only cut to about 1/8" depth so if you need to go all the way through thicker material you'll have to use a larger bit. The tiny 1/32" bits are a little fragile so I try to run them through the least amount of material I can to avoid breaking them.
Scott Barron Furniture makes sense! Thanks. I see you build guitars. I do as well and got the origin to help with cutting bodies, fretboards, bridges etc. Have you use it much for guitar work?
A vac bag would work well here! I have one, but didn't think to use it for this. The audible depth gauge is part of the drill, it's a Nova Voyager. It's a great drill, but I'm just waiting for the day the computer goes belly up and I've got a giant paper weight.
That tool is freakin' amazing. Have you ever tried down-cut bits? Seems like with those micro cuts, they shouldn't cause the machine to hop... and would eliminate all the frazzle & tear out at the top? Also if you're using a spoil board, why not cut down into it just a little to eliminate that little lip at the bottom?
Two Q's; Is there an option on the screen menu for metric offsets and depths? I work in mm and metres. Have you tried dominos printed on paper, does that affect accuracy?
I don’t recall offhand but it wasn’t terribly long. I did both plaques over two days, all the routing was done on the first day. If you make the kinds of things it’s good at making it can certainly be a useful tool!
Very nice. One question: When you do the Z-Touch you do this on the MDF. Would it not be right, to do this on the wood? Maybe there are only some 1/100 between and not necessary for this application, but for other projects where the depth is important?
Yeah, I've actually done it both ways and I'm not really sure which one is the correct way. I have noticed some inconsistencies in same depth cuts when changing bits doing it both ways, and I'm wondering if the z axis is just not as accurate as the x/y. Or maybe I'm not as in plane with the tape as I think I am. I know it really wants everything to be on the same plane.
@@ScottBarronFurniture I have been looking at one of these for a while so i'm by no means an expert, but I would think you should touch it off on something more rigid than wood, but probably not steel, maybe aluminum. When you touch off the tool you're not referencing the wood really you're just referencing the tool length compared to the bottom of the router, so any perfectly flat surface should do the trick. I feel like the wood may be giving slightly allowing the tool to press in to it, giving inconsistencies. I could especially see this for a smaller and larger bit, given that they have different surface areas.
Scott, thanks for the video! This thing pushed me over the edge to getting a Shaper. Now that I have it I'm realizing the biggest learning curve to pull off doing what you did in this video won't be with Shaper but with getting decent at svg manipulation in Illustrator. I have an svg file of a logo and I'm attempting to do the same thing you did to adjust the corners. But several of the anchor points that are in the file don't show me the corner field when I click on them. And I think you ran into the same issue in the video, but since this video is more about Shaper and not Illustrator you skipped past how you corrected issues like this. I think I see some times where you are manually making changes to get the rounded corners that you're after. But it all happens so fast I can't tell exactly what you did. If you could expand on that a bit or point me in the right direction that would be GREATLY appreciated.
I am really in the fence regarding the shaper. Would you buy it again? It looks like the accuracy is acceptable for you. I build mostly guitars and don’t have the shop space for a gantry CNC and have had my eye in this for a bit now. Great video and you have some serious skills!!! Thank you and be well.
Yeah, definitely, especially if there's no space for a gantry machine. I've built a couple guitars with it and it's great for making templates and routing the cavities. I haven't done it yet, but I want to try doing some inlay on the fretboard with it.
It's got a camera that tracks where it is using the domino tape and it can move the cutter in x and y so as long as you're within range of the line it can track it (if you go out of range it'll retract the cutter). It's pretty cool tech!
I`m old fart and technology pisses me off... that being said, I`m not sure how life was possible pre-UA-cam and people like yourself posting how-to videos? Thanks, and my very best to you and yours!!
Cool project! I like the video! Fellow Shaper Origin owner here...couple questions. First, Why do you take the time to change the radius of the corners in Illustrator? That seems like it is an extra, time-consuming step that isn't necessary. Origin will take the file as is and you will end up with the radius of the bit you are using (assuming you tell it the correct size you are using). Second, with the precision that Origin is capable of, why did you make your inlays so thick and cut them down later? Origin makes it pretty easy to do inlays that are almost perfect and only need a little light sanding to make flat? Just seems like extra work. I hope this doesn't come across as rude or mean or anything like that...Just sincere questions. I just want to learn and get better too! :)
Thanks, Scott! Not rude at all, those are great questions. For the corner rounding thing, it's correct that you'll get whatever the radius of the bit is regardless, for inside corners. If you don't radius in the SVG, though, you'll still get sharp outside corners. If you imagine inlaying a triangle, the corners in the cavity will have whatever radius the bit is but the inlay piece will have sharp corners and they won't match up. The larger the bit, the more pronounced the difference is. As for the thickness of the piece, that was just because I was using 1/4" MDF as my tape board and making my material 1/4" was the easiest way to keep it coplanar with the tape board. One of these days I'll set up a proper system with wedges so I can do arbitrary thickness material.
@@ScottBarronFurniture Thanks for the video! I really appreciate you taking the time to answer everyone's questions on this video too. I had a lot of the same questions in my head that I wasn't going to bother asking, but it was nice reading through the comments and seeing you answer all of them. Thanks for sharing.
And... Found it! In case anyone else needs it: www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Types_of_Tools/Routers_and_Bits/Bits/Carbide_Downcut_Inlay_Router_Bits.html
Great video. I was wondering if the SO is accurate enough to do tasks such as inlays, where a thou or two error matters. This is specially true in making joints with the workstation. Have you used the workstation? Just curious your updated thoughts on the machines accuracy. As I have yet to find an accuracy specification on the machine. thx in advance
I’m always a little unsure when computers are involved. I spent 20 years writing software so I’m properly afraid. The build quality on these is very good and the support is great so I’m reasonably confident I’ll be able to at least make back the cost. You can find stuff online for printing your own tape sheets. I haven’t done it yet but I understand it works pretty well.
Hello, I make templates and guitar parts.as well. I have been reseaching this Shaper Origin set up and wondering if it could apply well for me. Can you comment on your experiences with working in the guitar world format and pro and cons? Im wondering if this may be the right tool for the right job. Can it handle typical body sizes and pocket depths, etc? Thank you for this video.. it was very helpful.
For making templates out of, say 1/2" mdf or plywood it's great, no issues at all. I've directly cut 2 bodies and their pockets with it, a tele and a p-bass. Those were 1 3/4" blanks so I was not able to cut the thickness completely with the Origin. The Origin has a 1.7" total z-axis travel so I might have been able to get that with a longer bit. I don't know offhand the longest bit it can accommodate while still being able to fully retract, but I think cutting completely through a 1.75" blank is not going to happen. I'm good with that, though, for the bodies and necks I'd rather make templates then use the bandsaw and router table to flush it up. I was able to route the pickup pockets fine on both bodies, and the control pockets on the p-bass all with the Origin. I needed some extra depth on the tele control pocket to fit the switch that I wasn't able to get with my bits, but I think I could have reached that with a slightly longer bit that would still work with Origin.
Hello Please tell me the name of the manufacturer and the type of the cream-colored planer, which you have used in this video (please have a look at 18:37 min). Thanks in advance. BR Ronald
That's the XFasten double sided woodworker's tape. I usually prefer the Spectape double sided tape, but you can get three rolls of the XFasten for the price of one roll of the Spectape. For this stuff it seems to work well.
I have been wanting a shaper origin ever since it was debuted, which seems like 10 years ago. This maybe has pushed me over the edge to get it. Also you look just like comedic actor Jon Glaser - it's uncanny.
Nice video and kudos for using eye protection and a respirator but you really need hearing protection in the shop or you'll end up needing hearing aids.
@@ScottBarronFurniture That's so great to hear! I grew up when hearing, eye and breathing protection were not even on the radar and I have significant hearing loss. I recently bought a SO and my adult daughter has been enamored with its capabilities. I already had multiple pairs of eye protection but not ear so I ordered her a pair of 3M over the head ear protectors. They go a long way towards preventing hearing loss. I just pointed her in the right direction and now she's teaching me tricks with making artistic svg files.
I have built a guitar and a bass with the Origin but I did it with my son so I didn’t film it. I have been wanting to build another one, so it might happen soon!
@@peterlintrup400 So for the neck I used the Shaper to cut a template which I then used at the router table to cut out the neck. Same for the fretboard. They were both Fender style necks (a tele and a p-bass are what we made). You could probably cut them directly with the Shaper, too. Then I did the radiusing on the back of the neck with some rasps and files. Next time around I want to do some inlay on the fretboard as well.
This is the best video I’ve seen on the shaper so far. Thinking about getting one and wanted to see how you get designs on the shaper.
Thank you for this video, I have the shaper and this helped me with getting to know illustrator portion.
Glad it was helpful!
Masterfully done.
Great video & inlaying demo~! I'll be getting my Shaper in the mail next week and this gives me several good ideas for projects. Thanks for sharing~!demo
Thanks! This worked perfectly for me. I adjusted for using a 1mm bit using your same math and set all corner radiuses (radi-i?) for 0.5mm. FYI, on some objects I was able to click the entire path and adjust all corner settings at once.
Thanks, this was helpful. Especially how to round over the corners in illustrator before going to cut and your method of using multiple bits to work down to the 1/32" one. Thanks for sharing this.
Thanks for this very informative vid, Cheers
subscribed! awesome tutorial and channel, keep up the good work.
Very helpful video, thanks!
Such a cool tool. More Shaper Origin videos please!
Got another one in the works now!
Nice to see a craftsman at work
An expensive tool but an amazing tool. I'll have to sell a kidney.
Turned out great! Thanks for sharing. A piece of advice if you want it. Invest in some hex lag screws to screw into your clamp handles using a screw gun with a socket if you want to save some time when clamping. Also helps with the “tight quarters” issue of trying to tighten them by hand.
J
Nicely done
Great video!
That is the most badass router ever!
Adobe will need to arrange a Shaper Origin package for Illustrator. Nice walkthrough, thanks.
that kid better be grateful, so much hi tech equipment went in to make those plaques!
W
another consideration is that at such small offsets, if a piece of dry inlay sits in a shop where there is a lot of humidity then it will expand enough that it might not fit into the pocket..
amazing accuracy on that router!
Thanks for sharing...
That is the strongest double sided tape I've ever seen 😂
What brand tape? I'd love to get some of that!!
Thank you for this video! I haven’t had the confidence to try inlay work, so I bought the bits that you used and I was able to complete my first test project! One question though, Have you had any issues with breaking the 1/32” bit? I tried to follow your instructions but may have made a mistake on something. I found when I was taking the bit out, it was broken. I have no idea when it broke or what I did wrong. Any suggestions?
I haven't yet broke my 1/32" bit, but I'm very nervous every time I use it that it's going to snap off. When I'm using it I'm being extra careful to move slowly and deliberately. With the 1/32" I'm trying to take off only the last final pass and not hog away any material left in the corners. It can be a pain, but going up through 1 or 2 bit sizes between the largest bit you use for the pocket and the 1/32" finishing bit will help knock down the material in the corners. But yeah, I fully expect I'm going to break it every time I use it. I consider it a miracle that I haven't yet!
Nice video
Thx
There is an Illustrator plug-in that help the Shaper Origin to do inlay (ua-cam.com/video/jKHZuYCh7sA/v-deo.html). This plug-in is amazing and made just for the Origin.
Great video! Why do you do the progressive step down of bit sizes? I get the offset for the clean up cut. Also I have just got an origin and used once for Mother of Pearl on a headstock and turned out pretty well. I think using a clean up pass would help a bunch.
Thanks! I use the step down approach for a couple reasons. On the pocketing cuts it's a lot faster to hog out the material with the larger bits, then go at the inside perimeter with the small bit to get the sharp inside corners. For the outside perimeter cuts, the small bits can only cut to about 1/8" depth so if you need to go all the way through thicker material you'll have to use a larger bit. The tiny 1/32" bits are a little fragile so I try to run them through the least amount of material I can to avoid breaking them.
Scott Barron Furniture makes sense! Thanks. I see you build guitars. I do as well and got the origin to help with cutting bodies, fretboards, bridges etc. Have you use it much for guitar work?
This looks like an ideal case for using a vacuum bag for glue-up.
What is the audible depth gauge arrangement on your drill press?
A vac bag would work well here! I have one, but didn't think to use it for this. The audible depth gauge is part of the drill, it's a Nova Voyager. It's a great drill, but I'm just waiting for the day the computer goes belly up and I've got a giant paper weight.
That tool is freakin' amazing. Have you ever tried down-cut bits? Seems like with those micro cuts, they shouldn't cause the machine to hop... and would eliminate all the frazzle & tear out at the top? Also if you're using a spoil board, why not cut down into it just a little to eliminate that little lip at the bottom?
Two Q's;
Is there an option on the screen menu for metric offsets and depths? I work in mm and metres.
Have you tried dominos printed on paper, does that affect accuracy?
Yep you can switch it all over to metric. I have printed out a sheet and used it and it works great, does not seem to affect accuracy.
Did you use the 1/8th collet for the smaller radius bits? Thanks for the video.
Yep, the smaller bit set needs the 1/8" collet.
Could I use this to inlet a flat top rifle stock?
Hey! Thanks for the demo video and nice plaques! About how long did all the routing take? Trying to decide if I should buy one. Thanks!
I don’t recall offhand but it wasn’t terribly long. I did both plaques over two days, all the routing was done on the first day. If you make the kinds of things it’s good at making it can certainly be a useful tool!
@@ScottBarronFurniture oh yeah, they open doors to new stuff. Thanks!
Very nice. One question: When you do the Z-Touch you do this on the MDF. Would it not be right, to do this on the wood? Maybe there are only some 1/100 between and not necessary for this application, but for other projects where the depth is important?
Yeah, I've actually done it both ways and I'm not really sure which one is the correct way. I have noticed some inconsistencies in same depth cuts when changing bits doing it both ways, and I'm wondering if the z axis is just not as accurate as the x/y. Or maybe I'm not as in plane with the tape as I think I am. I know it really wants everything to be on the same plane.
@@ScottBarronFurniture I have been looking at one of these for a while so i'm by no means an expert, but I would think you should touch it off on something more rigid than wood, but probably not steel, maybe aluminum. When you touch off the tool you're not referencing the wood really you're just referencing the tool length compared to the bottom of the router, so any perfectly flat surface should do the trick. I feel like the wood may be giving slightly allowing the tool to press in to it, giving inconsistencies. I could especially see this for a smaller and larger bit, given that they have different surface areas.
Scott, thanks for the video! This thing pushed me over the edge to getting a Shaper. Now that I have it I'm realizing the biggest learning curve to pull off doing what you did in this video won't be with Shaper but with getting decent at svg manipulation in Illustrator. I have an svg file of a logo and I'm attempting to do the same thing you did to adjust the corners. But several of the anchor points that are in the file don't show me the corner field when I click on them. And I think you ran into the same issue in the video, but since this video is more about Shaper and not Illustrator you skipped past how you corrected issues like this. I think I see some times where you are manually making changes to get the rounded corners that you're after. But it all happens so fast I can't tell exactly what you did. If you could expand on that a bit or point me in the right direction that would be GREATLY appreciated.
I would also like to learn more about svg, I want to learn before I decide to try my hand on a shaper
I am really in the fence regarding the shaper. Would you buy it again? It looks like the accuracy is acceptable for you. I build mostly guitars and don’t have the shop space for a gantry CNC and have had my eye in this for a bit now.
Great video and you have some serious skills!!! Thank you and be well.
Yeah, definitely, especially if there's no space for a gantry machine. I've built a couple guitars with it and it's great for making templates and routing the cavities. I haven't done it yet, but I want to try doing some inlay on the fretboard with it.
@@ScottBarronFurniture that you for the reply! You do great work and I really enjoy your videos. Please keep it up. Be well.
Where does one buy the Shaper Origin?
That tool is amazing! How does it stay on the template so well?
It's got a camera that tracks where it is using the domino tape and it can move the cutter in x and y so as long as you're within range of the line it can track it (if you go out of range it'll retract the cutter). It's pretty cool tech!
I`m old fart and technology pisses me off... that being said, I`m not sure how life was possible pre-UA-cam and people like yourself posting how-to videos? Thanks, and my very best to you and yours!!
Cool project! I like the video! Fellow Shaper Origin owner here...couple questions. First, Why do you take the time to change the radius of the corners in Illustrator? That seems like it is an extra, time-consuming step that isn't necessary. Origin will take the file as is and you will end up with the radius of the bit you are using (assuming you tell it the correct size you are using). Second, with the precision that Origin is capable of, why did you make your inlays so thick and cut them down later? Origin makes it pretty easy to do inlays that are almost perfect and only need a little light sanding to make flat? Just seems like extra work. I hope this doesn't come across as rude or mean or anything like that...Just sincere questions. I just want to learn and get better too! :)
Thanks, Scott! Not rude at all, those are great questions. For the corner rounding thing, it's correct that you'll get whatever the radius of the bit is regardless, for inside corners. If you don't radius in the SVG, though, you'll still get sharp outside corners. If you imagine inlaying a triangle, the corners in the cavity will have whatever radius the bit is but the inlay piece will have sharp corners and they won't match up. The larger the bit, the more pronounced the difference is.
As for the thickness of the piece, that was just because I was using 1/4" MDF as my tape board and making my material 1/4" was the easiest way to keep it coplanar with the tape board. One of these days I'll set up a proper system with wedges so I can do arbitrary thickness material.
@@ScottBarronFurniture That makes perfect sense on both counts! Thanks for the reply! Keep up the great work 👍
@@ScottBarronFurniture Thanks for the video! I really appreciate you taking the time to answer everyone's questions on this video too. I had a lot of the same questions in my head that I wasn't going to bother asking, but it was nice reading through the comments and seeing you answer all of them. Thanks for sharing.
Cool router bit set - I have been looking for something like that. Can you attach a link to where you purchased it?
And... Found it! In case anyone else needs it:
www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Types_of_Tools/Routers_and_Bits/Bits/Carbide_Downcut_Inlay_Router_Bits.html
Sorry I missed your comment, but yep that's the one!
Great video. I was wondering if the SO is accurate enough to do tasks such as inlays, where a thou or two error matters. This is specially true in making joints with the workstation. Have you used the workstation? Just curious your updated thoughts on the machines accuracy. As I have yet to find an accuracy specification on the machine. thx in advance
Please tell me, possible to cut big round or square figures with this tool ?
Definitely. If you lay down enough tape you can cut pretty big shapes.
What's the domino tape for?
How confident are you about the longevity of the tool and the availability of the tape?
I’m always a little unsure when computers are involved. I spent 20 years writing software so I’m properly afraid. The build quality on these is very good and the support is great so I’m reasonably confident I’ll be able to at least make back the cost. You can find stuff online for printing your own tape sheets. I haven’t done it yet but I understand it works pretty well.
Hello, I make templates and guitar parts.as well. I have been reseaching this Shaper Origin set up and wondering if it could apply well for me. Can you comment on your experiences with working in the guitar world format and pro and cons? Im wondering if this may be the right tool for the right job. Can it handle typical body sizes and pocket depths, etc? Thank you for this video.. it was very helpful.
For making templates out of, say 1/2" mdf or plywood it's great, no issues at all. I've directly cut 2 bodies and their pockets with it, a tele and a p-bass. Those were 1 3/4" blanks so I was not able to cut the thickness completely with the Origin. The Origin has a 1.7" total z-axis travel so I might have been able to get that with a longer bit. I don't know offhand the longest bit it can accommodate while still being able to fully retract, but I think cutting completely through a 1.75" blank is not going to happen. I'm good with that, though, for the bodies and necks I'd rather make templates then use the bandsaw and router table to flush it up. I was able to route the pickup pockets fine on both bodies, and the control pockets on the p-bass all with the Origin. I needed some extra depth on the tele control pocket to fit the switch that I wasn't able to get with my bits, but I think I could have reached that with a slightly longer bit that would still work with Origin.
@@ScottBarronFurniture Thanks a bunch for your insight.
Cool
I don't understand why you use the dotted tape north of the cut piece. Not sure how that works!?
Hello
Please tell me the name of the manufacturer and the type of the cream-colored planer, which you have used in this video (please have a look at 18:37 min). Thanks in advance. BR Ronald
That’s a Powermatic 2244 drum sander.
@@ScottBarronFurniture
Thank you very much. It´s a very nice and useful machine. A good complement for each good wood workshop.
Have you ever done this by hand and eye sort of old school ?
I've done a lot of marquetry by hand, but not much inlay. Sometimes it'll be a combo, really tiny pieces are easier to do by hand.
What brand of double sided tape did you use? It seems to stick extremely well.
That's the XFasten double sided woodworker's tape. I usually prefer the Spectape double sided tape, but you can get three rolls of the XFasten for the price of one roll of the Spectape. For this stuff it seems to work well.
Dear sir,
This Saper Machine so useful so please you can give price and how can purchase???
I have been wanting a shaper origin ever since it was debuted, which seems like 10 years ago. This maybe has pushed me over the edge to get it. Also you look just like comedic actor Jon Glaser - it's uncanny.
GEEEEAAAAARRRRRR!
Definitely not the first time I’ve heard that, it’s an honor to resemble a comedic great!
Nice video and kudos for using eye protection and a respirator but you really need hearing protection in the shop or you'll end up needing hearing aids.
I am absolutely wearing hearing protection. I typically use foam ear plugs.
@@ScottBarronFurniture That's so great to hear! I grew up when hearing, eye and breathing protection were not even on the radar and I have significant hearing loss. I recently bought a SO and my adult daughter has been enamored with its capabilities. I already had multiple pairs of eye protection but not ear so I ordered her a pair of 3M over the head ear protectors. They go a long way towards preventing hearing loss. I just pointed her in the right direction and now she's teaching me tricks with making artistic svg files.
Barron shop walls 😂
Sad part is, I didn't realize the pun until about the 6th watch through. I'm bright like that!
That makes it even better
I'd like to see a close up...Those cuts didn't look so good when you were fitting them.
These weren’t for his son, they were for him…
more clamps
Hi, I would love to see you cut out guitar parts. Thanx.
I have built a guitar and a bass with the Origin but I did it with my son so I didn’t film it. I have been wanting to build another one, so it might happen soon!
@@ScottBarronFurniture Did you cut out the neck as well with the Shaper?
@@peterlintrup400 So for the neck I used the Shaper to cut a template which I then used at the router table to cut out the neck. Same for the fretboard. They were both Fender style necks (a tele and a p-bass are what we made). You could probably cut them directly with the Shaper, too. Then I did the radiusing on the back of the neck with some rasps and files. Next time around I want to do some inlay on the fretboard as well.
@@ScottBarronFurniture Thanx